Tony's Travels Search *

"33" Cryptogram
1	14	14	4
11	7	6	9
8	10	10	5
13	2	3	15

March
22

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Found In:

March
23

Sinamatella, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
From Victoria Falls via Musi-Oa-Tunya National Park, Zambia; and Victoria Falls Found In: End Location: Sinamatella, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe Lodging: Sinamatella Lodge (Cottage)

March
24

Sinamatella, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
Found In: End Location: Sinamatella, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe Lodging: Sinamatella Lodge (bungalow) Entry: The plan had been to go for a game drive, but by the time we'd waken up from the luxury of sleeping indoors (no early morning sun with a ceiling!), then had a full breakfast (bacon, potatoes, toast, poached eggs, and baked beans) it was after noon. After checking with the rangers office we ran into Keirin, Martha, Haley, and Rosie - three English travelers who were on our Zambezi rafting trip. We arranged to meet at our chalet later for a braii. Entry: By this time it was starting to rain so we decided to go into Wankie (honestly! also used to be the name of Hwange) for supplies. By the time we returned from town with supplies (three cases of beer, two bottles of Amarula, lots of soda, even more meat, and misc. others) and put them away we only had an hour before the camp gates shut down. Entry: We had to argue with the guard to let us leave - he didn't think we'd be back in time - but we eventually were on our way to Mandavu Dam to see what we could see. On our way we cam upon a pack of African Wild Dogs in the middle of the road. They're an endangered species and visitors to Hwange are all encouraged to take notes on them (the forms were handed out at the ranger's office). We sat there and watched them for the thirty minutes we had left - they didn't see afraid of us, cautious and curious, but not afraid. Entry: We got back to camp with seven minutes to spare. Had a great BBQ with the English and sat around drinking and watching the fire until nearly three AM.

March
25

Sinamatella, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
Found In: End Location: Sinamatella, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe Lodging: Sinamatella Lodge (bungalow) Entry: Not surprisingly had somewhat of a late start. After arranging for a ranger to take us on an evening game walk we were out in the park on our way to Mandavu Dam - where we were on our way to yesterday when we ran into the African Wild Dogs. Somehow we ended up completely lost and spent most of the three hours we had finding the dam. No problem, and we did see some elephants. Entry: At the dam we saw a large crocodile out of the water and maybe a dozen hippos - all in the water and not at all active in the heat of the afternoon. Since we had an hour until the game walk we decided to take a slight detour to do the Dobashura Loop road. One of the disadvantage of being in the parks at this time of year - before the tourist season - is that most of the roads haven't been maintained in a while. After about thirty minutes the road vanished. We spent another thirty minutes trying to follow a stream bed, several game trails, and just overland before giving up and backtracking. By the time we got back to the cottage and changed clothes we were an hour late. Luckily the ranger still agreed to take us on a (slightly abbreviated) walk. Entry: The walk wasn't to exciting. though it was nice to get out in the bush. It was a bit weird that the ranger carried and AK-47 machine gun, but I guess there is a reason. The most exciting thing we saw was a fresh pile of elephant dung that was being mined by dung Beatles. We also saw quite a few giraffes, including one that was pregnant. Other than that we saw some impala and a big (fat) warthog. Entry: Stopped at the restaurant to pick up some ice and garlic, and ran into Keirin, Haley, Martha, and Rosie so we hung out on the terrace, had a beer, and watched the elephants down below. Back at the house we had our first meat-free diner in who knows how long and the others played Risk while I tried to start catching up on my journal - again.

March
26

Main Camp, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
From Sinamatella via Nyamandhlovu Pan Found In: End Location: Main Camp, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe Lodging: Main Camp (bungalow) Entry: Packed up and moved out of our beautiful chalet. The drive to Main Camp was incredibly disappointing from a game point of view. Hwange is supposed to be Africa's most densely populated park, yet we saw very little. A couple elephants some distance away, and the beautiful Crowned Cranes were the highlights. To make things worse, as we got to paved roads (the Southern bit of the park is paved) we started running into crowds - on the roads and on the viewing platforms. I'm a bit worried about other tourists on the east coast - I've gotten very spoiled. Entry: At Main Camp we were told we'd have to wait until 5:30 to find out if there were any accommodations available. Since it was less than an hour we sat down and had a few cold beers. As we were hanging out an older couple drove up and asked if we had a tow rope they could borrow - of course we did. The scary bit was that they had asked every vehicle and been denied - without doubt every safari vehicle out there would have had one - so much for human kindness. Just after getting our "lodge" they drove up and returned the rope and we arranged to meet them later. Entry: The cottage ("lodge") we rented this time was the top of the line luxury version (it cost us US$1.50 each) - it's huge, two large bedrooms, a bath and shower (in separate rooms), a toilet, a comfortable sitting room, a kitchen, a dining room, and two porches - not as nice of a view though. After diner we met the older couple and they bought us all a drink. They were from Wales, but had lived in Zimbabwe for 27 years.

March
27

Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
From Main Camp, Hwange National Park Found In: Entry: Had an unexciting drive to Bulawayo. Bulawayo looks like a nice enough town, but not to exciting. Find a nice hostel a ways out of town and check in. Joy and I hang out while the others go in for groceries. Since it's Sunday almost everything is closed and they have a lot of trouble tracking down food. Have a nice diner and try to watch a move, but the VCR can't handle the tracking.

March
28

Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
Via White Rhino Shelter, Matopos National Park; World View (Malindidzimu), Matopos National Park; Nswatugi Cave, Matopos National Park; Mpopoma Dam, Whovi Wild Area, Matopos National Park; and Lushongwe, Whovi Wild Area, Matopos National Park Found In: Stop: White Rhino Shelter, Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe Stop: World View (Malindidzimu), Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe Photo: Cave paintings: Hunters / wildebeest, White Rhino Shelter, Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: Cave paintings: Rhino, White Rhino Shelter, Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: Rainbow lizard, World View, Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 827-463 Photo: Cave paintings: Giraffes, Nswatugi Cave, Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 828-024 Photo: Cave paintings: Zebras, Nswatugi Cave, Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 828-024 Photo: White rhino, Whovi Wild Area (Matopos), Zimbabwe
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 828-024 Photo: White rhino, Whovi Wild Area (Matopos), Zimbabwe
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 828-024 Entry: Got up early, but by the time we had breakfast, checked out the car and stopped for groceries it was nearly noon by the time we were heading for the park. Once we got to Matopos National Park (only about a 40 minute drive) we drove around the park proper before heading to the game reserve. Entry: The first stop in the park was White Rhino Sanctuary - much to our disappointment there weren't rhinos, rather it's a shallow cave with primitive paintings - the most prominent a white rhino. The preservation of the paintings wasn't that great, but the surrounding scenery was fantastic and it made a great excuse for a short hike. Entry: Next stop was a rocky hill called Worlds View. With a name like that I was expecting to be a bit disappointed - Wrong! The view was fantastic! It did seem like you could see forever in every direction. The top of the hill is all rock, and nature has artistically arranged a dozen or so boulders in a circle at the top. Took lots of pictures... Entry: Stopped to look at some more paintings at Nswatugi Cave - much more impressive! The paintings were a lot better preserved. Some of the paintings (especially one of a giraffe) were amazingly accurate - you could almost see it running. Entry: Finally into the Whovi Wild Area - the game reserve section of Matopos. By the time we got there it nearly 4:30 and we had to be out by 6 - so we were a bit rushed. Only minutes into the reserve we spotted our first (and sadly only) White Rhino. We saw lots of warthogs and bush pigs. Entry: We stopped at a picnic area at the dam and I was taking a picture of a giant warthog from the car. A guard comes up tot he car and says "You can get out, he's a friendly lad". So I get out and walk over and the beast charges me and scares the hell out of me. Then the guard says "That's close enough" - gee thanks...

March
29

Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
Found In: Entry: Somehow manage to get up early but lounged around the hostel until eleven. Spent the day taking care of business (laundry, post office, bank, etc.). I tried to buy film but the visa network was down and I didn't have any cash. When I tried the ATM same problem. Eventually got a bank to cash a travelers check. Turned in the car for servicing (oil and a lube job), then spent the afternoon looking for an internet cafe. There are at least three, but they all use providers in Harare and the phone lines to the capitol are down. So we had a leisurely lunch then spent the late afternoon wandering all over town looking for email again. Entry: The evening's entertainment was a movie! Only 35 Zim$ (< US$1) to get in! Dean and I went to see Jackie Chan's Who Am I, which was quite good and had the added bonus that it was all filmed in Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa. Joy, Darrelle, and Brett went to see Kiss the Fool. On the way home we stopped for ice cream and happened to notice a video rental place next door so we ended up renting two videos (Small Soldiers and Mercury Rising).

March
30

Nata, Botswana
From Bulawayo, Zimbabwe Found In: Entry: Actually managed to get an early start and were out of the hostel by seven thirty! The plan had been to go into town and use the internet for a couple hours before heading for Botswana. Unfortunately the lines to Harare are still down. Spent an hour restocking at the grocery for our jaunt into the deserts. Brett and Darrelle have been convinced to stick with us for a while longer so the five of us head for the border. Entry: In Francistown (not too far into Botswana) we found an internet cafe that worked and several hours disappeared - and I wasn't on the longest! Even though it's getting late we decide to continue on, and end up camping at an unexciting lodge just outside of Nata. Early to bed.

March
31

Kubu Island (Lekhuba), Sua Pan, Botswana
From Nata Found In: Photo: Joy, Brett, Darrelle, and I in Grass, near Sua Pan, Botswana
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 828-024 Photo: Brett setting up camera, Sua Pan, Botswana
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 828-024 Entry: Drove along a rough pists (tracks) between the Sua and Ntwetwe Salt Pans. The only excitement was when we realized that the plane of grass that we'd stopped to frolic and take photos in was infested with ticks - but we were lucky, and when we stopped and loaded the entire car top down with firewood from a dead tree. After several hours we turned into the Sua pan and headed across the absolutely flat, featureless pan to the almost surreal Kubu Island. The "Island" rises twenty meters above the otherwise flat pan and is covered with fanciful baobab trees. Entry: We found a great camp site and set up camp under a huge baobab tree. Spent a couple hours driving around the island in the salt pan taking (mostly creative) photos and just enjoying the otherworldliness of the place. The evening was spent sitting under the nearly full moon, around the huge fire finishing off a bottle of Amurula and listening to Mozart - more than a little surreal - before heading to bed early.

April, 1999

April
1

Matswere Gate, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana
From Kubu Island (Lekhuba), Sua Pan Found In: Photo: Moon in baobabs, Kubu Island, Sua Pan, Botswana
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: Other taking dawn photos, Kubu Island, Sua Pan, Botswana
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Entry: Got up way to early to watch the sunrise. A basic sunrise, not too much color, and the sun seemed to leap above the horizon. But as usual the magic of the desert going from grays and silvers to full color was spectacular. After some repair work on the fuel pump (a hose clamp failed) we were off by the record time of eight. Stopped at the same tree we robbed yesterday and collected even more wood (my axwork even earned me a blister!) Entry: Stopped in a small town outside of the Kalahari park to fill up with gas. We also managed to track down and buy the last (only) bottle of Amarula. Of course then we had to go on a quest for ice which strangely enough was successful - although we had to buy from the hospital. Entry: We got to the gate of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve early in the afternoon. Originally we had been planning on driving to Gabrone, seeking permits and reservations then driving back to the park. Given the distance we would have had to go out of the way, the fact that it's approaching Easter weekend, so it probably would have involved waiting many days, and that many people had told us it was unnecessary - we went straight to the park... and got denied. After a good half hour of discussion with the ranger we arranged to camp at the gate tonight and first thing in the morning head in to the park so that we could make it all the way through to the West in one day - thus avoiding having to camp (which he wouldn't let us do). We spent the afternoon hanging out and recovering from the rather rough drive. Had a very early diner, watched the [giant] moon rise, had a huge fire (had to use all the wood - we are allowed to sit on the roof here), and (as usual) finished off the evening with a bottle of Amarula and classical music. Surprise of the evening: Dean, Joy, and I were sitting on the straw mat playing cards when Dean jumped up, quickly followed by the rest of us - a small snake was looking for cover and apparently our butts looked good! Eventually we shoed it off and sat back down - though everyone was a bit edgy.

April
2

Ghanzi, Botswana
From Matswere Gate, Central Kalahari Game Reserve Found In: Photo: Springbok, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 115-050 Photo: Springbok, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 115-050 Photo: Springbok, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 115-050 Entry: Another early morning! Were packed and entering the park by sunrise. A long driving day. The game was rather scarce, and with the exception of some ostrich and a few jackals limited to various antelope. There were tons of Oryx (Gemsbok) - which are beautiful with their dramatic black and white faces and long, straight horns. Entry: It took us seven hours to cut across the park - and it was tough driving - the roads were deep sand and very bumpy. By the time we got to the exit gate the car was running very hot and the radiator was almost dry. Spent a half hour adding water and letting the car cool down then it was off to Ghanzi. Unfortunately the road didn't get much better and it took us dour hours to get to town. The town is almost completely shut down (it's Good Friday) but we manage to get gas and find a spot to camp at the hotel. No stores are open and the only restaurant that is open is the hotel's - surprisingly it was very good. We're thinking about trying for Pretoria (nearly 1,000 km away) tomorrow so it's going to be another long one - in bed shortly after nine.

April
3

Pretoria, South Africa
From Ghanzi, Botswana Found In: Entry: Up early (again), packed and on the road by eight. The plan was to go by the Ghanzi crafts market - it's supposed to be very good for Kalahari Bushmen crafts. Unfortunately it was closed - it's the day before Easter. Entry: About two hours into the drive we spotted a cloud of vultures circling something 100 meters off the road - we got excited hoping for a lion kill. When we drove off the highway to get nearer we realized it was a horse carcass - no evidence of how it died. Spent about half an hour watching the vultures - it was gruesome, but fascinating. Entry: The rest of the day was long - nearly fourteen straight hours in the car (breaks only to get gas twice, to watch the vultures, and to cross the border). About twenty kilometers before the border we got caught in a speed trap. All day the speed limit had been 120 km/h (the Land Rover maxes at about 90), but now it was 60 - the police claimed there was a sign but we didn't see it. Dean claimed to have no Pula on him and told the police we were coming back to Botswana so they gave us a ticket (i.e. a souvenir) and we were on our way. We ended up getting to the border minutes before six (they close at six) and we were rushed through - probably the quickest border crossing ever! Maybe we learned a new trick... Entry: Finally found the hostel we were looking for sometime after eleven - they'd moved from where the guide book had them. Everyone was too tired to eat so it was straight to bed.

April
4

Pretoria, South Africa
Via Sun City Found In: Entry: Easter - in Sun City. I kind of liked the idea of the contrast between last year (Jerusalem). However I didn't remember until we were stuck in traffic outside the entry gate that I didn't really think much of Sun City the first time I went. And last time the place was pretty much deserted, this time it was packed. I just hung out in a coffee shop for the three hours we were there, nice enough but would have been nicer back at the hostel. Didn't even gamble at all.

April
6

Pretoria, South Africa
Found In: Entry: Not the best day. Most of us were feeling the effect of last night. The day was spent getting our Mozambique visas and tracking down the Lesotho embassy (it had moved). We got our Mozambique visas and eventually found the Lesotho embassy - and found out that visa are issued on the border. Did some shopping and spent the evening watching videos in the hostel.

April
7

Pretoria, South Africa
Found In: Entry: Spent the morning packing and taking advantage of the email at the hostel. Both Dean and I had a large amount of film to send home (mine runs back to sailing in Denmark last July). Went by TNT and spent US$85 (!!!) to send fifteen rolls (just over a third of a pound) - expensive but worth the peace of mind, I wasn't comfortable with sending it through the South African postage system. Entry: Brett and Darrelle are in desperate need of Vegimite so it was off to the Australian embassy to ask where it could be found. Dean, Brett, and Darrelle were scandalized when the embassy workers had no idea what Vegimite was - although they did admit that this is the third time this week that someone has asked... the problems with local help... Entry: Next stop was the Swaziland embassy to make sure that we don't need visas. Unfortunately it's moved - so we'll find out at the border. Joy is out of passport pages so we then went by the American embassy - only to find out that they closed at noon! Not a very successful day embassies wise. Entry: Between the late hour and Joy still needing to go to the embassy we decided to spend another night in Pretoria (and the fact that the hostel owner had offered us free accommodation for the night didn't hurt either). Entry: A large group of us went to a club called Bourbon Street. Before ten it was all you could drink. So by about 10:30 no one even cared at the extreme sleaze level. It was an eighties nightmare - but provided excellent people watching opportunities... though tomorrows early start might be unlikely.

April
9

Semonkong, Lesotho
From Excelsior, South Africa via Maseru Found In: Photo: Huts and mountains, Near Makhaleng River, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Entry: Uneventful drive to the border - easy border crossing, through in fifteen minutes. The capital of Lesotho, Maseru, is right on the border. The city's appearance is pretty shocking. Apparently there was a lot of unrest here last September - and the city still shows the scars. A huge number of buildings are bomber or burned out. A lot more damage than was evident in Beirut last year! We had lunch and spent a few hours wandering around the city - Dean bought a "diamond" from someone who was caring them around in his mouth. It only cost him 160 Maloti (~US$27) and at the least he bought a good story. Then it was time to venture out in to the countryside. Entry: Lesotho's topology is difficult to compare to anywhere else. It's very mountainous with lot's of steep winding roads. in some places it looks a lot like the Rocky mountains around Colorado, in other places it looks a lot like the American South West - lots of plateaus and strange rock formations - but lots greener. In some places it's also reminiscent of pictures from Peru and in others like those from Nepal. Anyway lots of rocks, ridges, and valleys. Entry: The good roads are very good, but the bad roads aren't. Between the altitude, and the steepness and condition of the roads we didn't make very good time and it was well after dark when we finally got to Semonkong - very near the giant Maletsunyane Falls - which we'll explore tomorrow. As we were setting up camp at a lodge the stars were incredible. We whimped out and went in to the lodge's restaurant - it was way to cold to cook. Though neither the temperature nor the light rain prevented us from starting a fire and drinking our customary Amarula nightcap before heading to bed.

April
10

Marakabei, Lesotho
From Semonkong via Maletsunyane Falls Found In: Photo: Dean, Joy, Brett, and Darrelle taking a photo break, Maletsunyane Falls, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-601 Entry: We packed up camp and headed out for Maletsunyane Falls. The road there was rough, but the scenery was spectacular. At one point a huge fissure-like canyon opened up across the landscape, and a few minutes later we caught sight of the falls plummeting into it. The falls aren't very large (volume wise) right now because it's the dry season. But they are still amazing. At 190 meters it's almost twice as high as the highest of Victoria Falls! Directly across the canyon from our view point is what looks like a small river and valley that runs right in to the canyon. The gorge itself is plenty impressive without the six hundred feet of falling water. It's amazing how normal and peaceful the river look right before plunging from its little valley in to the canyon. Spent an hour plus hiking around the ridge opposite the falls. When we climbed back up to the car the seven thousand feet of altitude was very obvious - as a pain in my lungs. Entry: Another long driving day. We didn't really cover much distance, but the nature of the road is to go three miles to the left, then three miles to the right (and probably three mile up and down) for every mile you go in the direction you want. Plus the Land Rover just doesn't make very good time on these grades (well, at least the up ones). Around sunset we went by a very nice lodge on a river. Shortly after the road got very rough and even steeper, and the car started to have problems. We were less than 45 kilometers from Thaba-Tseka (where we were planning on going), but we decided to turn back for the lodge anyway. At the lodge, the owner told us it would have taken us three hours to get to Thaba-Tseka - so the stop was a good move. We had a beautiful home cooked dinner at the lodge, and got to watch a half hour of CNN (there's something going on in Yugoslavia...) before heading to bed early.

April
11

Hlotse (Leribe), Lesotho
From Marakabei Found In: Photo: Mountain lake, South of Katse, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Photo: Mountain range, B25, Khanna ka Likre, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: Mountain range, B25, Khanna ka Likre, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: Kids at car window, B25, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 551-979

April
12

Sani Pass, Lesotho
From Hlotse (Leribe) via Butha-Buthe Found In: Photo: Mountain vista, Near Sani Pass, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Photo: Clouds and mountain, Near Sani Pass, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 115-050 Photo: Clouds and mountain, Near Sani Pass, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 115-050 Photo: Clouds and mountain, Near Sani Pass, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 115-050 Photo: Clouds and mountain, Near Sani Pass, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: Clouds and mountain, Near Sani Pass, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Entry: The crafts center was a bit of a disappointment though Dean managed to buy a mohair cap. Next to do for the region was some dinosaur prints a few kilometers out of town - once again a bit of a disappointment. The prints weren't all that clear, and the hassle of dealing with a dozen people who wanted to guide you took away from the magic (clueless too "these ostrich and elephant tracks have been here a long time , almost a thousand years"). Entry: More gorgeous scenery today. Lesotho has definitely turned out to be one of the most spectacularly beautiful countries I've ever been in. More luscious green valleys and mountains. Proving its right to call itself "The Kingdom in the Sky", we drove almost an hour without the road dropping below 10,000 feet altitude (highest pass was 10,725 feet). Entry: Near Sani Pass (tonight's stopping point) we stopped for photos of the clouds crashing into the mountains and watched the sun set. At Sani Pass we found accommodations at the nearby Sani Top Chalet lodge. Arranged horses for a all day trek to the peak of Thabana-Ntlenyana tomorrow. Had a few drinks at Africa's highest pub, then back to the backpackers accommodations for diner. Since the horses are showing up at eight tomorrow morning it was early to bed.

April
13

Sani Pass, Lesotho
Via Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain Found In: Stop: Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho Photo: View from top, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Photo: View from top, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: The horses, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: View from top, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: View from top, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Photo: The horses, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Photo: Me at top, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Photo: View of peak, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Photo: View, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Photo: ?, Thabana-Ntlenyana Mountain, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Entry: Got up at seven even though we'd been warned that the horses arriving at eight was "Africa Time" so they probably wouldn't be there until nine - they arrived at 7:45! The horses are about the healthiest looking rental horses I've seen (no shoes though). The guide doesn't speak to much English, but he tells us the peak (our destination) is about three hours away. The first couple hours of riding were uneventful. The horses basically walk - occasionally they can be encouraged to trot, but the terrain is rough enough so that walking is good. After a couple hours those weird unused muscles start to complain. Also after two hours the peak is still "three hours away" according to our guide. About five hours (and two ridges / three valleys) later we're about ten meters below the summit of Thabana-Ntlenyana - the highest peak in Southern Africa (11,333 feet). Entry: Spent a chilly hour at the summit having lunch. Then headed down. We walked the horses for the first hour (it was very steep and rocky) and strangely enough made much better time than we did on the ride up. The rest of the ride was unremarkable except for a fantastic sunset from the top of the last ridge before Sani Pass. Unfortunately the sunset meant we had to do the last hour in the dark - pitch black by the end, but the horses seemed to handle. Back at the lodge just under eleven hours after leaving this morning - Over eight of them on the horse - way to much. Entry: Getting off the horses was both wonderful and painful. Walking was difficult, sitting impossible. Pretty much everything is sore. We took showers, warmed up in the lounge then had a four course dinner prepared by the lodge - vegetable soup, roast chicken / potatoes with gravy, cauliflower cheese, pumpkin, and fruit / Jello with custard! Everyone was in bed by nine.

April
14

Durban, South Africa
From Sani Pass, Lesotho Found In: Photo: Road in to Lesotho, Road down, Lesotho-South Africa Border, Lesotho
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Photo: Teamwork fixing car, ?, R617, South Africa
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 492-581 Entry: Got up very slowly this morning - I think everyone is in quite a bit of pain. Packed up the car and headed out of Lesotho. The road down from Sani Pass into South Africa is incredible. Very narrow, very steep, very winding, but the views are amazing. Looking at the sheer cliffs of the escarpment on this side of the country it's pretty easy to see how Lesotho managed to remain independent of the surrounding South Africa! Entry: After passing through the border (another easy one) it was a drive through the very different (i.e. flat) farmlands of South Africa. We stopped for gas and then about twenty kilometers on the car died. We quickly determined that the fuel pump wasn't working (no noise). This is the fuel pump that we had installed just over two months ago in Namibia. Luckily the old pump is still in the fuel tank (the new one was mounted externally), so we just had to drop the tank (which was just filled), reattach the wires, then bypass the new pump. It only took us a bit over an hour which is pretty impressive - but it's still very annoying that the pump failed. Entry: The first hostel we checked out in Durban didn't have parking so we ended up at a hostel quite a ways out of town - it's very nice though. Went shopping and got tons of food and Dean prepared a feast for Darrelle's birthday - roast lamb / potatoes / sweet potatoes / onions, gem squash and gravy.

April
15

Durban, South Africa
Found In: Entry: Slept in a bit, then while Dean took the car to the mechanic the rest of us got our laundry together. After Dean returned we dropped off our laundry. I thought the others were heading to the internet cafe so I stopped at a bank with the intention of meeting up with them again. Somehow our wires crossed and when I got to the cafe they were no where to be seen. I did email, then started browsing old photos form my journal, then started looking on Lonely Planet's "Thorn Tree" for dive club recommendations for St. Lucia and Sodwana Bay, but ended up answering questions about Guinea, Namibia, and Botswana. Four and a half hours later... Entry: Spent a good hour trying to find the shopping center where I could get my film developed and got there five minutes after they closed. Tried to find a taxi for the ride back to the Laundromat when I realized I had the pickup ticket and they were going to close in a half hour, but ended up catching a ride with a local guy being the small world that it is it turned out that he was dating the manager of Tekweni (our hostel). At the laundromat found out that Joy had persuaded the woman to give her the laundry without the claim ticket so I walked home. Entry: Had leftovers for dinner (still nice) and headed out for a couple drinks with Joy, Dean, and Darrelle (Brett is feeling sick). Second place we hit (Bonkers), has having happy hour until nine (doubles for the price of singles) - and it was a quarter two, and we were doing rounds - so we ended up having three very stiff drinks quite quickly. Darrelle was ready for bed so we headed back to the hostel. I felt like I'd had enough to drink so I stayed and hung out playing pool and talking with some of the other guests while Joy and Dean headed back out. Even staying in didn't get to bed until three...

April
17

12 km West of St. Lucia, South Africa
From Durban Found In: Entry: Not surprisingly didn't get up until nearly one. Also not surprisingly didn't feel that hot. Dean went and picked up the car - complete with a new fuel pump, U-joint, newly patched radiator, and tons of miscellaneous. We packed, then went out for a goodbye lunch for Joy. Joy has decided to take a job back in the US and has to be home by the first of next month so she's decided to stay in Durban to arrange her ticket and try to do a quick trip to Kruger. Entry: We sadly said goodbye to Joy again then headed North. We caught a very red sunset along the beach North of Durban then drove a couple more hours in the dark. We ended up stopping at a backpackers just off the side of the road about twelve kilometers West of St Lucia. Called Sodwana Bay Lodge (where we're thinking of diving from) to find out that the Dive course Dean wants to take doesn't start until Monday - so we're in no hurry. Quiet night playing darts with Dean and chatting with other travelers.

April
18

Sodwana Bay, South Africa
From 12 km West of St. Lucia Found In: Entry: Unexciting drive to Sodwana Bay. Once at the lodge we found out that the diving class Dean was going to take that we thought started tomorrow had just started. As Dean rushed to class he looked a bit bewildered - a lot like a seven year old on his way to his first day of school. Meanwhile Brett, Darrelle, and I went over our options. We decided to do a four night, six dive package and add a couple other dives in. So if all goes well we'll do eight dives over four days starting tomorrow - seven day / one night, and weather permitting we'll hit all four reefs. After we finished fitting all our equipment, filling out forms, and unpacking the car Dean was back. We hung out talking then went down to the pool - only to find it was a bit chilly. Entry: The lodge is very nice, we got two wooden thatched huts with ensuite toilets / showers, fans, and each has a nice deck. The package included diner and breakfast at the lodge's restaurant and there are two pools and two bars, plus the dive center. Entry: Laid down on the bed to work on my journal and ended up taking an hour plus nap. A very nice buffet diner and it was relatively early to bed.

April
19

Sodwana Bay, South Africa
Found In: Entry: First dive in almost exactly a year (since Dahab, Egypt). It went smoothly and felt even better. We were told to be at the beach at seven thirty and we were, but it felt like everyone was waiting on us. The first dive was at Five Mile Reef. Saw some dolphins on the way out but they didn't want to play and disappeared minutes after we jumped in with them. At the dive site visibility was about 30 feet. We saw a couple big moray eels, tons of clownfish and other bright things in the coral. It was a fine dive, but I was still disappointed. I've been hearing how this is supposed to be one of the top three dive sites in the world and I didn't think it came even close to the Red Sea at Dahab. There weren't that many fish and sadly a lot of the coral was dead. It might be that it's just been over dived. Entry: Hung out and rested at the lodge - it's amazing how much diving takes out of you. Had another great diner. The to bed looking forward to more diving tomorrow! Entry: [Original entry lost. Reconstructed from notes 7/13/99]

April
20

Sodwana Bay, South Africa
Found In: Entry: An amazing day on the water. Brett, Darrelle, and I were at the beach by a quarter past seven - no one was waiting on us today! The first dive was at Seven Mile Reef - which meant quite a long ride out there. About 20 minutes into the ride we spotted a school of dolphins. Threw on the snorkeling gear and jumped in the water. Today they were a lot more friendly and played with us or just completely ignored us. The highlight was a trio (!!) of dolphins doing the wild thing - the third one seemed to be helping his mate's aim. Pretty wild! We spent a good forty five minutes with them before the dive master called time - or we weren't going to have time to do the dive before heading back. Entry: The diving was much nicer today. The visibility was better and there's a much more impressive selection of fish and and more live coral. Poking into one of the many little cave found a three foot long sea turtle sleeping. Entry: The second dive was at Two Mile Reef, the nearest reef. The visibility wasn't nearly as good as this morning, but it was still a nice dive. Way more exciting than the dive was the ride back. It's only a couple minutes back to shore, but almost immediately Greg (the Dive Master) spotted a Whale Shark! Once again we quickly threw on the snorkeling gear and jumped in. It was amazing the whale shark just ignored us and I swam under it, around it, in front of it - even touching it! According to Greg it's only a small one, but at twenty-five feet long it's by far the biggest living thing I've ever touched. I was floating about a foot above it's head when I realized that the width of it's head was greater than my height. Quite honestly it's the biggest thing I've ever (and hope to ever) swim with. Definitely one of the highlights of my life. Entry: Brett and I went on a night dive, Darrelle decided to skip it. We met down on the beach and put the boat in - very different experience than during the day - we had to do all the work ourselves for one! We boated back out to 2 mile reef and waited for the sun to set and then to get dark. We spent about an hour waiting for it to get completely dark - cold. Immediately remembered why it's so cool to dive at night. It's a whole different world. The bio-luminescence made it absolutely magical - every movement resulted in a miniature fireworks display. Saw another big turtle and a couple eels but nothing to exciting. Near the end of the dive as we started to ascend I started to get dizzy. At the surface it got worse - I thought it might be a touch of vertigo but it continued on to shore. For the third time today the boat ride eclipsed the dive for excitement. It was insane. The skipper stopped just outside the surf, fired off a flare into the sky - which only gives about 30 seconds light so he hammered it in to shore at full speed straight over anything in the way - a very bumpy ride! Hit the shore at full speed and ran it so far up the shore that there was ten feet of dry sand behind the boat! It was like something out of the cartoons. Back at hotel had a couple beers, but still was still feeling a little disoriented so I went to bed. Entry: [Original entry lost. Reconstructed from notes 7/13/99]

April
21

Sodwana Bay, South Africa
Found In: Entry: Got up even earlier than yesterday - needed to be at the beach by 6:30! Since the restaurant doesn't even start serving breakfast until seven we had to have Dean pick them up so we could have something to eat after the first dive. The first dive was to Seven Mile Reef - to the same section of reef we did yesterday. It was still good and there was less surge, but visibility was not as good. During most of the dive I wasn't feeling so hot, and on the accent I started to feel very bad - like last night, only worse. By the time we got back to shore I had decided not to do the second dive. The second dive was going to be a relatively shallow dive (30+ feet) to visit the local shark population and I'd really been looking forward to it but I was just feeling to out of it. After breakfast and a bit of a nap I was feeling much better, and probably stupidly I decided I could do the dive. Entry: The dive was brilliant we found a group of eight to ten "Raggie" sharks all five to eight feet long (including tail). They're all pregnant, and therefore not feeding so they're safe to be around. You could actually see the algae growing on their teeth. They passed with feet of us - close enough to see their teeth and look into their eyes. Most of the dive was spent laying on the sand watching them so air lasted forever - though it did get a bit cold. Surprisingly I felt much better after the dive than I did when I started. Even so I've decided that's enough diving (seven dives in three days is more than I've ever done before) so this will be the end of diving here and tomorrow will be a day off. Entry: Back at the lodge we cleaned up our gear and turned it in. Spent the afternoon hanging out with Brett and Darrelle, and two other Americans who are leaving tomorrow. Had our final diner here (still excellent) and not surprisingly crashed into bed bed early. Entry: [Original entry lost. Reconstructed from notes 5/4/99]

April
22

kwaMbonambi, South Africa
From Sodwana Bay Found In: Entry: Had to be out of our lodge by ten. Dean was diving so I packed everything to the car and then hung out until Dean was done. While we were at the dive center we heard that the conditions were terrible and that pretty much everyone was getting sick. My dizziness problem aside I was pretty glad I'd decided to bail on diving today. When Dean got back we found out that he'd been sick. Had lunch, said goodbye to everyone (the dive staff here were very good), and hit the road. Entry: Ever since Pretoria we've been seeing this advertisement for a hostel that has a Jacuzzi and we've been fantasizing about it. After three days of diving we're ready for it. Get in late in the afternoon and get a rude reminder that this is still Africa - the Jacuzzi is broken - we stay anyway. Watch bad TV (six million dollar man among others) and head to bed. Entry: [Original entry lost. Reconstructed from notes 5/4/99]

April
23

Hluhluwe, South Africa
From kwaMbonambi Found In:

Lodging: Isinkwe Lodge Photo: White Rhino, Umfolozi, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Photo: White Rhino with baby, Umfolozi, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Photo: Baby White Rhino, Umfolozi, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Photo: White Rhino with Baby, Umfolozi, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: White Rhino, Umfolozi, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-591 Photo: Sleeping white rhino, Hluhluwe Reserve, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-973 Photo: Sleeping white rhino, Hluhluwe Reserve, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-973 Photo: Sleeping white rhino, Hluhluwe Reserve, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Entry: Got a fairly early start and drove to Hluhluwe / Umfolozi Game Reserves. We had excellent luck with the game viewing until it started to rain - very hard early afternoon. The highlights were both kinds of rhinos, one white very close while it was sleeping, and a lioness. The lioness looked like she might have been stalking some nearby wildebeest but after watching for half an hour we decided she wasn't. Also saw a very beautiful new kind of antelope, Nyla. The guidebook says their very rare - they kind of look like extra furry Kudu. Entry: During the afternoon I start to feel a little out of it again. It takes forever to get out of park in the reduced visibility. Eventually we find a hostel but the power is out. I went straight to bed (at around seven) as I'm feeling even worse. Entry: [Original entry lost. Reconstructed from notes 5/8/99]

April
24

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Swaziland
From Hluhluwe, South Africa Found In: Region: Timbutini Region: Ezulwini Valley

Weather: Rain Photo: Zulu dancing, Dumazulu, Hluhluwe, South Africa
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Photo: Zulu dancing, Dumazulu, Hluhluwe, South Africa
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Photo: Zulu dancing, Dumazulu, Hluhluwe, South Africa
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Entry: Left the hostel and headed for the Cheetah sanctuary. The guy at the gate had us sign in and then we followed the signs to parking. There was no one there and a couple of enclosures so we walked around. There were two cheetahs (on in each fenced in area) - it was kind of sad, they were all alone and the enclosures looked pretty boring (and small for an animal that can run 60 mph). After walking around an angry person came over and told us we weren't supposed to be there and we needed to make an appointment - oh well. Entry: At the Zululand hostel they told us that there was an excellent, non-touristy Zulu village set up that we could visit. So we went, Dumazulu was not only expensive, but the same tourist show crap that you see everywhere in the world (lecture / demo /dancing / crafts shop). All in all pretty disappointing - the only highlights were the topless women and the passing around of the pipe - not filled with tobacco (don't worry Mom I didn't partake in either). Entry: The Swaziland border was pretty easy, but because of the weather it was getting dark when we got to our hostel. The hostel we'd chosen was full! First time this has happened in a long time. We spend another hour driving around looking for the Mlilwane Wildlife Reserve and then another half an hour looking for the backpacker in the reserve only to find... it too was full. Luckily we could camp there - in the rain. Set up our very wet tents, then went inside to enjoy the facilities. On the bright side I won't have to listen to Dean snore - I thought, but even 25 yards away from his tent it was unfortunate that he fell asleep first.

April
25

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Swaziland
Via Manzni; and Mbabane Found In: Region: Ezulwini Valley Entry: Took advantage of the momentary break in the weather and tore down camp shortly after getting up (and verifying that we had beds for the night). It's Anzic day so the Australians want an easy day. We were planning on going to some hot springs we'd heard about but when we got to them we found that they were completely developed and it was a health spa - we didn't bother. Entry: We also went to Mbabane (the capital) to check out the crafts market. It was mostly deserted, and was lacking in the Zulu-type crafts we'd been led to expect, but we still managed to spend some money. I only bought a handful of beads (including porcupine spines), but Dean went a tad crazy. On the way home stopped at yet another crafts market but didn't buy anything. Entry: Spent the evening drinking beer (in strict accordance with Anzic Day) and talking with the other guests.

April
26

Nelspruit, South Africa
From Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Swaziland Found In: Region: Ezulwini Valley Lodging: Old Vic Inn Entry: Managed to lose all the work I've done on my journal since arriving in Sodwana Bay (about two weeks worth). This is pretty unfortunate because I was very excited about the dives we'd done so I'd written a lot. Alkaline batteries are not available in Swaziland so I was using normal carbon batteries and they quit midway through a save... Entry: Was expecting a rather short drive - what we got was a five hour boring boring drive. Chose a backpackers out of the new Coast-to-Coast (a free budget accommodation guide for Southern Africa). And went to the Old Vic Inn pub. At the pub (a very cool old converted church) found out that the Coast-to-Coast had just come out a week ago and we were going to be the first guests! Entry: Dave and his wife Bella (the owners and sole employees of the pub)are running the backpackers out of their house and were incredibly hospitable. Had a beer, then went up to the house (a few miles away), settled in, showered, then headed out back to the pub. Had a delicious dinner and spent the evening sitting in the pub, playing pool, and generally enjoying Dave's hospitality and humor (though he ended up bringing us a few too many shooters on the house...)

April
27

Nelspruit, South Africa
Found In:

Weather: Partial Sun / Overcast / Rain Lodging: Old Vic Inn Entry: Spent the morning taking it easy. Went shopping - food for Kruger, Mozambique (When we found out it was on sale including a case of Amarula), and a braai at the Old Vic. Went searching for an Internet cafe, but one was down and the other was closed. Spent the afternoon at the Old Vic eating and playing pool. Spent the night with two liters of Ice Cream and three rented videos: Wag the Dog (good but a little to close to reality), Lost in Space (pretty good), and Devil's Advocate (not bad despite Rieves).

April
28

Blydepoort, South Africa
From Nelspruit via Mac-mac Falls Found In:

Photo: Narrow overgrown canyon, God's Window, Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 130-129 Photo: God's Window View, God's Window, Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 130-129 Photo: View through brush, Near God's Window, Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 130-129 Entry: Up at 7:30, but somehow by the time we packed, bathed, and said goodbye to Dave and Bella it was 9:30. Went by the internet cafe that was closed yesterday and spent two hours with email. Stopped to pick up some (a half kilo!) more of the Chile bites (Biltong) that was so good yesterday. Had a cup of coffee to try and decide what we were going to do. Then Darrelle realized she'd left her sweatshirt at the hostel. It took three laps between the Old Vic pub and the hostel before we finally tracked down Bella so that we could get in. So finally at one we were really on our way. Entry: Stopped at Mac-mac Falls around three. The main reason we stopped was for the road-side crafts market, but the falls themselves were nice. I got away with only spending a few Rand to buy some "Elephant Shit Paper" greeting cards. Both Dean and Brett each bought a walking stick and salt and pepper shakers, and Darrelle bough some clay figures. Entry: Next stop was the God's Window view point in the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve. The view seemed to go forever over some of the only remaining lowveldt land in the world, but unfortunately you could see a lot of logged and farmed land. We tried to stop at the Three Rondawels rock formation but the reserve road closed at five and we got there at five ten. Entry: Found a private lodge near the canyon where we could camp and be able to see the rock formation first thing in the morning - hopefully getting us to Kruger National Park by noon. Made diner, sat huddling around the charcoal before realizing it was just getting too cold. Had our nightly Amarula then I headed for a long bath (the joys of a private campground!)

April
29

Skukuza, Kruger National Park, South Africa
From Blydepoort via Bourk's Luck Potholes, Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve; and Satara Found In: Region: Northern Province

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Partial Sun / Rain Photo: Dean shooting potholes, Bourk's Luck Potholes, Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-615 Photo: Water draining into pothole, Bourk's Luck Potholes, Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-615 Photo: Bright Eyed Starling, Kruger National Park, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Entry: Woke up early to the first truly sunny skies we've seen since arriving in Sodwana Bay. Headed up to the view point in the campground. Got an outstanding view of the dam, the Blyde River and canyon, and the Three Rondawels rock formation. Decided to backtrack a bit and went to the official Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve's Three Rondawels viewpoint, but it really wasn't any better than the campground's. Entry: We decided to backtrack even further and headed twenty kilometers south to Bourke's Luck Potholes, also part of the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve. It's the start of the Blyde River canyon and is pretty spectacular. There's a falls that drops the river into a pool. The canyon leading from the pool looks like a series of potholes that are connected under water - so the water in these "separate" holes flows from one to the next. It's beautiful and fascinating, but the walkways, railings, bridges, and danger signs really detract from the setting. Not much in Africa is overdeveloped, but this is. Entry: Finally Kruger National Park! Spent the afternoon driving through the park. The game viewing didn't seem fantastic, but that was partly because of the weather - moving steadily towards no sun at all. There were quite a few animals, including a high percentage of the ones you want to see, but no huge gatherings at the waterholes like in Etosha. Actually all the water holes we went to were completely deserted - no animals at all. Obviously all the rain recently has not been good for the game viewing. Entry: Saw the usual, not exciting, but picturesque animals: giraffe, wildebeest, Zebra, warthog, and Impala before things started to get exciting. We turned off the main (tarred) road on to a sand track looking for leopards. We didn't see any leopards, but almost immediately came upon a group of three lioness. Considering that up until today I've only seen a total of three lions - this was impressive. After a few minutes they dissolved back in to the landscape and we continued on. Shortly thereafter we found a group of at least five white rhinos - unfortunately they were several hundred yards off, but still more rhinos than we've ever seen together. After spotting a large spotted eagle owl we got back to the main road. Entry: We debate another quick side road detour (we need to get into camp by six or face a huge fine), but the last sand track was so successful that we decide to do it. It's only a seven kilometer side track, but we immediately come upon a black-backed jackal pup that it fairly fearless of us - at least until the cameras come out (how do they know?) And about half way through we come by a field with another lioness in it! After carefully watching we find that it's not just a lioness, but two lioness and three cubs! The images are spectacular, unfortunately it's after sunset now and to dark for photos. Entry: Race for the camp, get there with ten minutes to spare - no worries. Do some quick shopping (this place is incredibly developed - full shop, two car rental places, a post office, a bank, even an ATM!) After a small dinner (I've been snaking all day - the 1/2 kilo of biltong I bought yesterday is almost gone), and sitting around the fire for the Amarula it's bed time.

April
30

Crocodile Bridge, Kruger National Park, South Africa
From Skukuza via Mlondozi Dam Found In: Photo: White Rhino, Kruger National Park, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Photo: White Rhino, Kruger National Park, South Africa
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Entry: A bit of a slow day. Lots of the usual: Zebras, Giraffes, Wildebeest, Impala, etc. After two hours of driving came upon a group of fifteen Elephants. These are the first elephants I've seen in over a month - since Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe! The elephants were huge, and had by far the longest tusks I've seen yet. Entry: At Sunset we found the lake literally packed with hippos. Even more surprising a group of six of them were up grazing on the shore - I thought you never saw hippos on land during the day. In fact these are the first hippos I've seen on land period (at least at a reasonable distance). There was also a very young baby (still mostly pink). It was amazing how many there were in a relatively small lake - counted twenty-two, and there had to be many more. We left the lake quite excited about how many hippos we'd just seen, then a hundred yards down the road there's another group of three hippos - again grazing, and this time far from the water! Again and again we saw hippos I stopped counting after forty. Basically this stretch of the Sabie river is infested. Entry: Several hours of nothing exciting had us running for camp - we had to confirm for the night's game drive by four. Being in a hurry we of course found something interesting - three White Rhinos, and close to the road! A few minutes later just 100 yards from the camp gate was another giant bull elephant. Entry: After confirming our reservations for the game drive we set up camp, ate a bit (Ostrich biltong and crackers for me) and just hung out for an hour. Entry: The night drive got going a little after sunset at five thirty. It started out pretty slow, just Impala and a few birds. We did have a fantastic moonrise - the moon was giant and full. Saw another white rhino - even closer to the road than this afternoon. A large-spotted genet was the first new thing we saw. Right next to the road it looked like a cross between a ferret and a house cat - looked quite cuddly, though I didn't try to verify that. Next exciting thing was a very cute spotted hyena pup. I've never thought to us the word cute with hyenas but this definitely was - he couldn't decide if he should be afraid of us or not so very timidly sat on the edge of the road, no more than six feet from me. Caught a brief glimpse of a black and white African Civet - another cat like thing, but bigger. Entry: Yet another cat like thing started the excitement - two lioness. We got with two yards of both of them - amazing. We turned away from them when we heard males vocalizing (roaring) nearby and went in search of the males. We found two of them and followed them back to the females. We got within feet of each of the four many times - it was totally incredible! The males were stunning. Entry: I learned an important lesson about my camera - it doesn't focus well in the dark, it has to use the flash, and then the flash has to recharge before the camera can actually take the picture, meanwhile the animal has moved so the focus has to be redone, etceteras. Lost lots of close up lion pictures until I realized manual focus is the way to go at night! Entry: Didn't get to see a leopard, and in general the drive was quite slow, but the close up experience with the mini-pride of lions was easily worth the time and money... And I did get to add Crocodiles, Large-spotted Genets, Lions, Common Duikers, Spotted Hyenas, African Civets, and Side Striped Jackals to the identified animal list for the day! Entry: Back at camp I was freezing (shortly into the game drive I regretted me choice of shorts). A nice hot bath (bath tubs in campgrounds are quite civilized) and straight to bed - we're hoping to be on our way to Mozambique well before dawn.

May, 1999

May
1

Praia do Xai-Xai, Mozambique
From Crocodile Bridge, Kruger National Park, South Africa via Maputu Found In: Entry: Didn't quite make it out before sunrise - but it was close. Were on the road by six thirty. We got to the border and there was already a kilometer long line ?!?! Got in the queue then had an official looking guy with a clipboard tell us that we needed to drive to the front since we were tourists. Drove up the line, and had someone else tell us we had to get in line - but they directed us into line near the front. That probably saved us three hours, but it still took about two hours of chaos to get through the borders. While we were waiting Brett and I jumped out of the car and went and got Wors (sausage) rolls for everyone. While the were cooking (it took a long time) we talked a little with the girl working - not much, but at the end she asked where we were from then said you're not like the others. I thought she was talking about accents and I asked if that was a bad thing - it wasn't until she said no that I realized she was talking about the way we treated her. I think I'm quite glad to be finally leaving South Africa... Entry: We drove towards Maputu - it immediately felt like we were back in "real" Africa. It just feels like a developing country. Also got struck by the poverty, the people asking for money, the people asking for jobs. But unlike most places people have been quite polite and friendly even after they realize you're not going to give them something. We went in to Maputu to take a look at the train station - it was built and designed by Eiffel (of tower fame). Unfortunately we didn't realize that today was May Day - and thus a major celebration of labor - with tons of parades and processions - which in effect closed down the city center. Combined with the locals lack of English and our lack of Portuguese (though Dean does well with the Spanish) we got lost and gave up fairly quickly. Entry: The drive to Xai-Xai (pronounced 'Shy-Shy') was uneventful through varied, but undeveloped flat country. Once in Xai-Xai we headed for the beach community and found our camp site. It's right on the beach and it's wonderful to hear the sound of waves from my tent again. We had some drinks and a bite to eat at the camp grounds restaurant before getting chased off by the mosquitoes. We thought they were bad, but as the sun started to go down they got truly frightening - possibly the worst I've ever seen. They're huge, painful, and only slightly slowed by clothing or repellant - I am not looking forward to tomorrow. Entry: A huge fire kept the mozzies at bay until we ran out of wood - then it was time for bed - at nine.

May
2

Ponta da Barra, Mozambique
From Praia do Xai-Xai via Inhambane Found In: Region: Inhambane Stop: Inhambane, Mozambique Photo: Grounded boat, Inhambane, Mozambique
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 675-907 Photo: Sailing dhows, Inhambane, Mozambique
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 147-605 Entry: Woke up early due to going to sleep so early. Started writing in my tent then realized I should be writing on the beach. Had the beach pretty much to myself (three fishermen just barely visible a couple km down the beach) - but it was windy. The good news is the wind finally took care of the mosquitoes. Had breakfast at the campground bar, then went in search of the others. Packed up camp, then took a shower with two guardian angels. The showers were absolutely infested with mosquitoes, but while I was taking my shower I had a chameleon and some other kind of lizard sitting on the rafters above guzzling the mozzies just as fast as they could. Entry: The drive was relatively unexciting. Inhambane is an ocean front town that was at one point very wealthy. Now it extrudes a decaying ambiance of grandeur - lots of colonial buildings with missing roofs, collapsed walls, etc. - not all that unlike Grand Bassam (Côte d'Ivoire). Plus the wrecks of many power fishing boats and on the water the many more basic sailing dhows that have replaced them. Entry: Ponta da Barra is down a very long, very rough sand track. We were looking for a backpackers recommended by the 1998 Lonely Planet, but found that it went out of business in 1995 - I love guide books. Ended up in the budget (i.e. dormitory) accommodation at the fancy lodge. Hung out in the bar, talked to other travelers, had an ok diner, and discussed diving tomorrow. At least the mosquitoes here are not nearly a problem (I've only seen three all night).

May
3

Ponta da Barra, Mozambique
Found In: Region: Inhambane Entry: Woke up very early this morning all congested with a full on cold. Not good timing as the plan had been to dive this morning. The others all went and said it was pretty good. I slept in then organized some gear and had breakfast. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be clear enough but it seems unlikely. Entry: Spent the afternoon hanging out on the beach while the others went fishing. I only meant to go down for an hour or two, but somehow that turned into four. I laid on the beach reading, swimming, and napping. Then walked west until I ran out of beach (1 - 2 miles). The beach here is fantastic - and pretty much deserted. Long stretches of clean white sand lined with coconut palms. Walked back to the lodge just in time to catch the others returning for fishing - they caught an El Dorado so at least they get diner out of their charter money! Entry: Made a nice diner (fish and all) in the bunk house with a couple other travelers, and in bed by nine-thirty. My cold seems to be getting even worse as the night progressed.

May
4

Ponta da Barra, Mozambique
Via Inhambane Found In: Region: Inhambane Stop: Inhambane, Mozambique Entry: Once again the others head off on a dive and I'm stuck on shore with a cold. Woke up feeling even worse than yesterday. Maybe tomorrow. Entry: Had breakfast with the others when they got back. Went in to Inhambane with Dean, Brett, and Darrelle to do some shopping and run some errands (post office, change money, etc.). Entry: Spent the afternoon hanging out on the veranda, or down at the beach bar (not drinking - I'm still hoping to get healthy so I can dive). We were planning on making a prawn curry stir-fry for dinner. A local fisherman had agreed to bring three kilograms of prawns to the lodge, but he never showed up. so went and had another Ok, but expensive diner at the lodge restaurant. Even with cold medicine I'm feeling worse, so I don't think I'm going to be diving tomorrow.

May
5

Vilankulo, Mozambique
From Ponta da Barra via Inhambane Found In: Region: Inhambane Stop: Inhambane, Mozambique Photo: Flooded houses, Outside Inhambane, Mozambique
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 551-979 Photo: Children wanting to be in a photo, Outside Inhambane, Mozambique
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 551-979 Entry: Others went diving while again I stayed on the beach with a cold. I packed, cleaned, and rearranged the car since Peter and Claudia are coming with us. When everyone returned they couldn't stop talking about how fantastic the dive was :-( Entry: After breakfast we packed, showered (who knows when next we'll see hot water), worked out the bill (somewhat challenging since we've been charging everything to the room), and hit the road. Ran out of gas in Inhambane, but only a couple blocks from the station - it provided tons of amusement for the locals though. Entry: Stopped to take pictures of some flooded building outside of town. The school kids were all waking home from school and ran when we took out the cameras, but as soon as they realized we weren't trying to take their photos they came running back and desperately wanted to be in one?!? Entry: Got to Vilankulo well after dark. We got mobbed by kids as soon as the car stopped at the first intersection - so we picked one and he was our guide for the night - he spoke amazing English which he'd learned from listening to tourist. We tried a bunch of places looking for lodging. Everything was too dirty, too expensive, or both. Eventually we found a very simple place on the beach. The huts are clean and cheap but no running water - back to bucket baths. Perfect. Had an ok diner at some random bar are guide picked, then everyone else went to bed. I sat up and watched the moon on the water while working on my journal.

May
6

Vilankulo, Mozambique
Found In: Region: Inhambane

Entry: Woke up to a raging storm - heavy rain and wind. Somewhat surprising the roof doesn't leak (well, too much). No one is very motivated so while the others sit around drinking coffee I decided to walk in to town. Spent an hour or so exploring the surprisingly large market - just the usual stuff but it felt good to be back in a real working market. Spent another thirty minutes sitting in a bakery writing a letter and sampling the various things - unfortunately everything looked a lot better than it tasted. Entry: Walked back to find the others still hanging out but having moved to beer. Obviously I join them. After a few beers I get motivated again and Claudia and I set out to find out about diving from a resort three kilometers outside of town - long walk only to find out that the diving is too expensive. Hung out at the resort (very posh) for and had a couple more beers. Entry: Had a great walk back on the beach as the rain has stopped and the sun has come out - but somehow managed to get completely soaked in the process. Stopped at the campground down the road from our huts and had some chips and a couple more beers. Back at the huts the others were off to diner so Claudia and I drank Amarula and coffees while waiting. When they got back from diner they got into the Amarula crate and the six of us polished off two and a half bottles before deciding it was time for bed.

May
7

Vilankulo, Mozambique
Found In: Region: Inhambane Entry: Pretty much a completely slack day - the others are all hung over. We bought a huge pile of prawns from a local fisherman - Dean and the others were going to cook - but then they wimped out so we paid the lodge $1 to cook. Claudia's foot is still bothering her so we leave her behind to clean the prawns and the rest of us head to the market. I explored the market yesterday and there's nothing interesting to me in town so I leave the others and head back. Lucky me Claudia is not done so I help her with the rest of the prawns and hand them over to the kitchen. They finish pretty quickly but we have to wait an hour for the others to get back. It's an awesome prawn curry. Entry: For diner we go to John's Place which had been highly recommended by the guide books and other travelers. Diner to was excellent, so good that we make arrangements so that John will have exactly what we want tomorrow.

May
8

Vilankulo, Mozambique
Via Isle Magaruque, Parque Nacional de Bazaruto Archipelago Found In: Region: Inhambane Photo: Darrelle reading, Isle Magaruque, Parque Nacional de Bazaruto Archipelago, Mozambique
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Entry: Took a dhow out to the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park. The dhow took us through several of the islands then dropped us off at Isle Magaruque. We'd been told that the trip was all inclusive, but on the island park rangers showed up demanding 50,000 Mt park admission. It turns out that supposedly the park rangers don't normally show. There was lot's of argument for about an hour but the rangers wouldn't give. Finally we agreed to pay, but an Israeli couple didn't want to so they went our an floated for a few hours while we just hung out on the beach and burned. I meant to go snorkeling, but the gear they provided us was so bad that I never got around to doing it. Entry: The biggest excitement was that once we got back there was a hose from across the street in the bathroom. It was there so that they could refill the barrel and do some cleaning but we immediately took it over and actually had a shower of sorts! Entry: Went back to John's Place for diner. We were the first there, arriving a good half hour before they were supposed to open. Another fantastic diner, then we were also the last to leave - and this is a popular restaurant.

May
9

Beira, Mozambique
From Vilankulo Found In: Region: Inhambane Entry: Unexciting drive through flooded villages and over temporary roads. We stopped to take a picture of some flooded buildings. There was a large group of school kids walking by at the same time, and they ran away when they saw our cameras, but as soon as they saw we weren't taking pictures of them they ran to try and get in the photo - sort of annoying, but also funny. We had a pool to see how far Richard would've made it by the time we passed him - Dean one right on the dot with 55 kilometers. he would have made it farther but he'd ruined a tire - so we picked him up. The car is a bit cramped - we've got seven people plus their gear and a bicycle! We stopped for gas in some small town and Richard sees a guy on bike - with the same size tire. Communicating entirely with signs he goes off with the guy into the little market, and 10 minutes later he's back with a new tire. Entry: Saw drastic changes in vegetation as we went north. It's become more wooded. Got in to Beira well after dark and found our recommended campsite. It's a total tourist spot, but security is good and they've got hot water and cold beer. Had a huge - very good - dinner at the adjacent restaurant and went to bed.

May
10

Beira, Mozambique
Found In: Entry: Walked the ten kilometers (!) into town. After the rather long walk we died in a cafe for an hour before going different directions. Claudia and I ventured down to the port. There must be twenty or thirty ship wrecks littering the sands around the port - amazing. Unfortunately some of the ambiance is lost as the beach is used as a toilet. Wandered around the nearby market (bought some fruit and string) then hit an internet cafe to quickly check email. Entry: There's only an hour of day light left and it's a long walk back - especially since Claudia's foot is injured and she can't walk very quickly. Somewhat less than half way there we manage to figure out how to catch one of the local shared taxis and get a ride back to camp (well worth the fifteen cents). Entry: Back at camp found out that Richard was able to find another spare tire so he'll be back on the road tomorrow. Another beautiful hot shower and another excessive diner and it's bed time. Getting up very early tomorrow.

May
11

Chimanimani, Zimbabwe
From Beira, Mozambique via Near Chimoio (EN6 / 102 Intersection), Mozambique; and Mutare Found In: Stop: Near Chimoio (EN6 / 102 Intersection), Mozambique Photo: The gang, where Richard and Peter get off, EN6 / 102 Intersection, Mozambique
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Entry: Packed up and off before sunrise. Stopped after a few hours at the intersection with the Northern road to drop off Richard (to continue his cycling) and Peter (to continue hitching), both heading towards Malawi. Entry: At the border I was informed that I needed to have my receipt to use the second entry of my double entry Zimbabwe visa - which is long gone (I don't think I was even told to keep it and it definitely didn't say on the receipt). Luckily I managed to bluster my way through without having to pay another $30 for a new visa. Entry: Stopped in Mutare. Changed my leftover Botswanan Pula to Zimbabwean dollars (no idea what I was thinking with so much Pula left - over $200 worth). Dean, Brett, Darrell, Claudia, and I had a nice lunch (cheap - yea Zimbabwe!), did some grocery shopping, and dropped off Claudia at the train station (she's heading for Harare - we'll probably meet her again when we get there). So many good-byes in one day is kind of sad. Entry: Drove another couple hundred kilometers (including an extra seventy for missing a turn) to Chimanimani. The car died just after sunset - the entire electrical system dead. Up in the mountains (about five thousand feet) it's getting cold and none of us are looking forward to camping here. Fortunately it only took about half an hour to find the problem - the primary circuit cutoff switch - and fix it (at least temporarily). An hour later we got to the lodge. It's getting really cold out now. Spent an hour sitting in front of the fire trying to work out my travel plans. Dean's managed to arrange a couple more months to spend in Africa and since I've only got ten weeks left we'll probably part ways in Harare, (or maybe Lake Malawi if our timing on Madagascar works out right).

May
12

Chimanimani, Zimbabwe
Via Base Camp, Chimanimani National Park; Rest Stop, Chimanimani National Park; Mountain Hut, Chimanimani National Park; Skeleton Pass, Chimanimani National Park; Mountain Hut, Chimanimani National Park; Base Camp, Chimanimani National Park; and Picked up by car, Chimanimani National Park Found In: Stop: Mountain Hut, Chimanimani National Park, Zimbabwe Stop: Mountain Hut, Chimanimani National Park, Zimbabwe Photo: Alpine Valley, Near Mountain Hut, Chimanimani National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-601 Entry: Spent the morning with the guide books trying to figure out how to see eight countries in ten weeks. It looks like I'm going to have to skip Zambia and do some flying. Entry: Got the others to give me a ride to Chimanimani National Park and actually started hiking from Base Camp at noon. The hike up Bailey's Folly was very steep and two things were painfully obvious. One, I'm out of shape; and two, I'm not acclimated to the altitude (yesterday we were at sea level, now I'm above five thousand feet). The trail was not all that well marked and is more scrambling than walking. I lost the trail several times but always rejoined it. I made it to the top in an hour and took my first rest stop, one thousand feet higher than I'd started. From the top to Mountain Hut was an easy half hour hike through a fairyland forest of weird rock spires. Entry: This is the first (and only) time I've seen anyone on the hike - three hikers from the hostel, and a ranger. I got directions, refilled my water bottle, and took a breather then headed across the marshy alpine valley for Skeleton Pass. My turn around time was 2:30 if I was already at the pass, or 2:45 is I was almost there. It was 1:50 when I left Mountain Hut and it the guide book claimed it was an easy 40 minute hike to the Pass - so I was right on schedule. When 2:45 came along I was almost at the pass so I kept on going. I got to the pass a few minutes before three and stepped over to the Mozambique side to take a short rest and admire the amazing view down into Mozambique's Wizard's Valley. I think the forty minute predicted hiking time must have been based on drier conditions - I had to make a lot of detours to get across streams and particularly marshy sections. Entry: So now I'm running late. I wanted to try and be back at Base Camp by 4:30 so I could catch the shuttle back to the lodge (saving Dean and co. the drive out to the park). I left Skeleton Pass at three. I tried an alternate route back to Mountain Hut hoping for drier conditions, but the trail turned away twenty minutes later being in a hurry I set off across the valley floor rather than backtracking. Mistake. I ended up bushwhacking through very rough marsh covered by knee high grass hiding many holes and streams. Despite my attempts at speed and a mostly downhill trek it took me the same amount of time back to the Hut. Entry: If I wanted to make the shuttle I had 20 minutes to get down - impossible. I decided to hurry anyway on the chance that the shuttle was late (this is Africa) or I could hitch with someone. The trail down was even harder. The markers (two or three small stones in a pile), which were barely adequate on the way up were nearly invisible on the way down. I kept losing the trail, but again finding it further down. At five I was on the trail still and not that far to go. At 5:15 the sun was setting (beautiful) and I had no idea where I was - I hadn't seen a marker in fifteen minutes and I was concerned about it getting dark. I kept going and the terrain got worse and worse. I stumbled and fell face first and twisted ankles a couple times and it was getting darker. A rock I was using as a foot hold gave way and I slid about fifteen feet down a nearly vertical cliff before managing to grab a tree. I'm clinging to a wall fifteen feet down from a ridge, and fifteen up from a small rocky ledge. The good news is that I can barely see the roof of the ranger station only a couple hundred yards across a ravine. I try yelling to get the rangers attention (it's 5:45 and the station is open until six). I'm pretty sure I can get to the ledge without killing myself, but there's a good chance I'm going to twist an ankle - or worse - so I at least want someone to know where I am. After fifteen minutes my voice is going horse, no one has responded (although I can hear weird chanting from over the mountains somewhere), and I'm running out of strength and light. I manage to break the sapling I've been holding on too and slide / fall down that to the ledge with no damage. Fifteen minutes later it's pitch dark and I'm back in base camp - no sign of the ranger, so much for them keeping track of who's supposed to come out. Entry: Happy to have survived probably the stupidest hike (but one of the most beautiful scenery and solitude wise) of my life I rest to get the trembling out of my legs and ankles then start off down the road hoping to meet the others soon (they were going to try be here at six). Forty five minutes later I've covered more ground than the entire hike back and I get picked up. Dean, Brett and Darrelle have been playing Golf - it's sounded like a great course and the had fun - and buying out the towns supply of crafts. We went to a great cafe in town. It was definitely one of the best meals I've had in Africa, but it was a real struggle to stay awake. Back at the lodge it was a quick shower and in bed by nine.

May
13

Harare, Zimbabwe
From Chimanimani via Mutare Found In: Entry: Up at six (side-effect of going to bed at nine). Had my first hot shower since Beira, ate breakfast at the lodge, and packed my gear - the first time my backpack has really been used as a backpack since last November (when I joined Dean). Left as much stuff as possible in the car since They'll be getting to Harare early next week - no need to rush this heavy pack thing. Entry: Walked into the village and got immediately on a bus bound for Mutare. The bus ride was a boring three hours and the combination of bad road and worse suspension meant I couldn't read or write. In Mutare I caught an Omni-Bus (shared taxi) to near the train station. Walking to the train station I took a wrong turn and found a bus for Harare. I found the train, found out that the only train was the overnighter, leaving at nine and arriving in Harare at six. The train didn't seem that attractive anymore so I went back to where I'd seen the bus, got there just as it was leaving, and scored one of the last two seats. The bus ride was pretty unremarkable except we listened to the same Dolly Parton tape three times through. Four hours later - Harare (beats nine sleepless hours on a train, though my knees are reminding me of why I hate busses). Entry: Ended up walking to the hostel I'd been recommended - ended up taking an hour to get to the right area, and another hour to actually find it (my map is dreadfully wrong). Between yesterdays hiking fiasco and carrying a pack for the first time in seven months my body is hurting (couldn't have anything to do with my age). Got to the hostel right as it was getting dark. I was hoping to find Claudia here (this is where most people go), but she must have gone to a different hostel. I looked around the hostel, decided against TV, wrote a bit, took a shower and was in bed by eight!

May
14

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
From Harare Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Up very early, my roommates were up even earlier and were discussing loudly. Checked email, got one from Claudia recommending a different hostel. Called the hostel and found that I could have a single for exactly half of what I'm paying for a dorm bed with snorers. Entry: Went into town to start on the visas. Kenya won't issue a visa without proof of onward passage - which I don't have, and don't even know when / how I'll be leaving Kenya. So I'll have to arrange the visa in Dar El Salam. So then there's a twenty minute hike to the Tanzanian embassy, where I need to have fifty dollars in American currency to apply. So then it's back past Kenya's embassy to a forex where I buy two twenties and a ten. Back to the embassy, an easy form, a three minute meeting with someone, and the command to come back at two. Now since I can't find an embassy for Madagascar, and Kenya won't give me a visa I'm done with visas - my main reason for being in Harare. Entry: I wander around town and find an internet cafe and spend some time with email (sending stuff I'd already written), and getting my journal updated. Picked up the completed visa (at least one success), and caught a taxi back to the hostel. Make some phone calls to determine that there is a free shuttle to this other hostel (it's a ways out of town), pack, say goodbye, and head out to meet the shuttle at a cafe at the city center. At the cafe there is Claudia waiting for the shuttle as well! The first shuttle is full so four of us wait for the second one which when it comes is the back of a pickup truck (when in Rome...). The hostel is very nice, more like a resort for backpackers (swimming pool, tennis courts, bar, giant tv lounge, etc.). Have diner at the hostel - there is no where else here, and to bed in my lovely - quiet - single.

May
15

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Got up early to catch the eight o'clock shuttle in to town. Spent a little more time at an internet cafe. Had luch (pizza!) with Claudia then went on a quest for a Lonely Planet East Africa - no luck. Caught the 12:30 shuttle back to the hostel and spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out in the sun reading. Took a late afternoon nap then went out to join everyone for the braii - a whole lamb. Unfortunately the lamb was very fatty and unevenly cooked - most of it was unedible. A huge disappointment since it had looked and smelled so good all afternoon.

May
16

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Hung out at the hostel until eleven and caught a shuttle into town. A group of us went to the National Museum - it's free on Sundays. The museum was Ok. It was a bit of a disappointment in that less than half of it was even from Africa (mostly German and Australian), but of the stuff that was there I liked quite a bit of it. The museum shop was awesome, mostly original pieces but also lots of local crafts, and at surprisingly reasonable prices. I found a painting that I really liked, enought ath I think I'm probably going to buy it. It's bushman rockpainting style figures on rusting tin. There was also lots of objects d'art from around Africa - lot's from Ethiopia, and I realize that I'm going to spend a lot of money there! Entry: Claudia and I walked around the Harare Central Gardens. It was a bit cool - the beautiful morning has turned into an overcast afternoon. There were a couple of smallish crafts markets in the gardens and I ended up buying a couple wire helicopters - much cooler than they sound. At somepoint I'm going to go crazy here and buy a lot of stuff to send home (since I have to ship my excess bagage home now that I'm out of the car I have the perfect excuse...). Entry: Had a huge delicious lunch and a restaurant in town, then wandered through yet another crafts / souvinier market before catching a shuttle back. Took an afternoon nap, ate leftovers from lunch for diner and watched the begining of Austin Powers before heading for my room to work on my journal, email, and get to bed early.

May
17

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Into town early. Browsed through some galleries and upmarket curio shops. Went to an internet cafe to check email and have a cup of coffee. Stoped by a travel agent to look into a canoe trip on the lower Zambezi in case Madagascar falls through (it's starting to look unlikely since visas seem to be unavailable). Wandered through one of the outside crafts markets again, then hit another internet cafe and spent an hour trying to fix my journal (nothing after May 10 is working?!?!). Picked up the three rolls of film I dropped off on Friday - no really exciting photos. Entry: Back at the hostel I helped Julio (than manager / owner?) get his computer working on the internet, had diner, and read.

May
18

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Slept in, worked on email. Went into town on the later shuttle. While at the internet cafe ran into Dean, Darrelle, and Brett! and even more amazing Seth!! the guy who introduced me to Dean, Joy, and Stu - last saw him in Ghana. Aranged to meet Dean and company later at the Eastgate Center. Entry: Finally decided against going to Madagascar, or rather decided to put it off untl I have the time to do it properly. Went by the travel agent to book a canoe trip for tomorrow only to find I'd been given the wrong info and it doesn't run until Saturday. Since I don't have the time to waste in Harare I'm not sure what I'm going to do now. Entry: Had lunch with Claudia at Mateos (same place I had lunch on Sunday). Met up with Dean to collect the rest of my gear from the car only to find out they'd taken a taxi to town - so I'll have to get it tomorrow at their campsite.

May
19

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Woke up early and watched the clock count down to the alarm time, fell asleep ten minutes before the alarm was set for and woke up 40 minutes late (alarm didn't go off, or didn't wake me). Rushed, but still missed the eight o'clcokc shuttle into town. Julio (the manager / owner? of the lodge) aranged for me to get a ride in around nine. I needed to meet Dean, Brett, and Darrelle to pick up the rest of my gear from the Land Rover, so I ended up getting a ride directly to their camp. Dean had been out for a major night last night and was still unconcious. Hung out with Brett and Darelle until Dean was up (still plastered). Cleared out my junk - no idea how I'm going to ever get back into one backpack! Entry: Caught a taxi back into the City Center and hung out at the cafe waiting for the twelve o'clock pickup. Met Claudia while waiting and the weather started to clear up. We decided to send my gear back to the lodge on the suttle, and walk down to the National Crafts Center. The Crafts Center is in a strange part of town - doesn't look the safest and we were definitely the only white people in the area. No other toursit in the Center, and the prices were reasonable, but there wasn't anything that exciting. I bought an Elephant toy and we headed back to town. On the way to the pick up spot I stopped and bought a great wire dinasaur from a gallery (I'd seen it before), it was relatively expensive (~$15), but I wanted it. Caught the four o'clock shuttle back to hostle. Entry: Claudia convinced me to go an a Mana Pools tour. It's a four day flying tour and hits the National Park and Lake Kariba. It leaves on Friday so I'll try to book it tomottow morning.

May
20

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Got up early and called about the flying safari - no problem, just have to call or drop by (at It's a Small World Backpackers - where I first stayed) this afternoon. It sounds like Claudia and I are the only customers. In town went by an internet cafe to check / send email and try to figure out what's wrong with my journal. Couldn't fix the journal - no idea what's wrong, I need to sit down for a couple hours instead of fifteen minutes at a time. Entry: Met up wit Claudia for lunch, then we called the tour operator to give our credit card numbers. I had to meet Dean at three to pick up some negatives that he had borrowed. Unfortunately he didn't show - agonized over what to have him do with the negatives since I'm leaving early tomorrow morning and he'll have left by the time I return - decided to have him drop it off at American Express for me to pick up, hopefully that will work. Claudia and I went to a very posh roof tope terrace garden restaurant for dessert. At one point it had obviously been quite exclusive, but once again the Zim dollar works in our favor - a fancy cake, strudel, and soda cost less than a dollar. Entry: Back at the lodge we got some bad news. Our tour operator had called and there is a problem with the plane. There is a chance it could get fixed tonight but it's unlikely - we'll find out for sure in the morning. Someone had a guitar in the bar and I ended up staying up late and listening.

May
21

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Called the tour operator - plane is not fixed. Try to decide what to do instead -none of the other tours are time / financially viable. Try to talk some of the other hostel people in to going to Chinhoyi Cave National Park, but no one can be bothered. Finally Claudia agrees to go, but by the time we get in to town we decided against it. Head to Westgate Center - adventure to work out the shared taxi (Omini-bus) system. The center is just a nice shopping mall could be anyplace in SA or America. Boring - but do buy some Amarula. An English girl staying here has her bagged stolen from the pick up spot - a drunk guy stumbled into her and while she was distracted another guy stole it. Back at hostel make plans to go to the cave tomorrow relatively early. Amarula and bed.

May
22

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center; Chinhoyi Caves National Park; and City Center Found In: Stop: Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Photo: Wonder Hole sink through cave, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: Divers in the Wonder Hole sink, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: The Wonder Hole sink, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: The Wonder Hole sink, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: The Wonder Hole sink, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: Dark Cave pool, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: Dark Cave pool, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: Dark Cave pool, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: Divers in Dark Cave pool, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Photo: Poinsettias, Chinhoyi Caves National Park, Zimbabwe
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 140-288 Entry: Ride into town, caught the nine o'clock bus from the "Road Port" (a brand new deluxe bus stop near the city center). It took us (Claudia came with me) a little over two hours (we were expecting about an hour) to get to Chinhoyi Caves National Park. Entry: Wonder Hole is the first "cave". It's actually a sink hole that has filled with water and is open to the sky, but you do walk down through a tunnel like cave to get to the view point. The water is stunningly clear and there are stalactites hanging from the roof of a grotto hanging over the far side of the water. Diving is allowed here, and we watched a group of divers swim down. The Wonder Hole is the start of an underwater tune that leads to another of the sinkholes. Entry: Dark Cave is more of a proper cave. There's not much in the way of cave growth, but there is an underground sink hole that is the other end of the underwater tunnel. The "lake" has an amazing inner light. It glows a otherworldly blue from the light that comes in through the tunnel. It was pretty bizarre to watch the divers come from nowhere. the water is fantastically clear - it's difficult to tell where the air stops and the water starts. I'd love to do the dive, but there doesn't seem to be an organized dives.

May
23

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Went in to the city center at eleven. Spent most of the hour until the twelve thirty pickup trying to find food. Finally found a couple super markets, and a Chinese take away - mediocre spring rolls for lunch. Entry: Last Sunday I went to the National Museum and saw a painting in the museum shop that I fell in love with. I went back to the museum today to buy the painting. Predictable it had already been sold. Entry: Back at the hostel spent the rest of the day reading and working on my journal. I also tried to organize my stuff so that I could ship it tomorrow - an apparently impossible job. There's no chance of getting the packages out tomorrow, and since it's a public holiday Tuesday (Africa Day) it looks like I'll be here until at least Wednesday and most likely Thursday.

May
24

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Went into town at eleven (Spent the morning trying to fix the lodge's computer and writing email). Internet for less than an hour then had a huge lunch with Claudia (she's leaving tomorrow) at Mateo's. Entry: Stopped by at a travel agent to explore my flight options up the coast. Ended up buying a ticket from Harare to Dar es Salaam with a nine day layover in Lilongwe (Malawi). It only cost me US$15 more than flying from Lilongwe to Dar es Salaam and saves me a ten plus hour bus ride (plus the cost of the bus), and the Mozambique transit visa cost. Unfortunately I have to wait in Harare until Friday to catch the plane... of course there are worse places to hang out. Entry: Decided I wasn't going to make the four o'clock shuttle back to the lodge and decided to take care of my shipping then do some celebrating with Claudia. Went to the African Unity Square market and bought some gifts to pad the packages I'm shipping. Went by TNT and sent a kilogram parcel to my parents (my broken H/PC for repairs) and a half kilo to Steve (more photos to scan). Went back to Mateo's with Claudia for dessert and drinks. Caught a taxi back to the lodge.

May
25

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Saw Claudia and some of the others from the hostel off - contrary to popular belief it is possible to leave Zimbabwe. I took a taxi to a crafts market just outside the city center on Enterprise Road. It was a bit of a disappointment, but that didn't stop me from doing my duty to the local economy. I ended up buying eight small stone hippos, three stone elephants, 3 Nyaminyami pendants (one stone, two horn), and a wooden bowl. Entry: Walked the three kilometers back to the city center. Today is a public holiday, Africa Day and it's amazing how quiet town is - even quieter than Sundays. Not much to do so I got some food (Pizza Inn - yum). I was the only person still in town so had the shuttle back to the lodge to myself - much different from the thirteen people in the back of the truck last week. Entry: Back at the lodge made some phone calls, worked on my journal, hung out, watched a documentary on Etosha, read, and basically avoided packing.

May
26

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Needed to get to get my visa extended today (it runs out today), so I went in town on the eight o'clock shuttle. After a short search found the immigration office (not on the Lonely Planet or the tourist map). The three people in front of me all got denied extensions for various esoteric reasons so I was a bit nervous, but he just stamped my passport and handed it back - no charge. Entry: Went to the internet cafe to quickly check email. Made a phone call, got some lunch, and wandered around. I wanted to do some shopping at the African Unity market, but I wanted to wait until late in the day when bargaining is easier. I ended up back at the internet cafe and spent three hours getting my journal working again (also improved the speed of the caching a bit). Entry: Spent an hour at the market and ended up buying some pillow cases (to use as padding in the parcel I'm shipping tomorrow), a scrap metal bug, and a Nyaminyami made out of a hippos tooth. Entry: Back at the hostel I packed a box to ship home tomorrow and hung out talking with the other guests. Ended up staying up late to watch Manchester United beat Germany and talk with some of the other guests.

May
27

Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe
Via City Center Found In: Lodging: Shoestring Backpackers Entry: Got up way to early to take my packages to the post office. Minor pain, but in under an hour they were on their way - hopefully they'll make it. The last couple days I've been hoarding Zim Dollars from the ATM so I could buy some American Dollars for Tanzania. When I tried to change money I discovered an interesting catch-22 for Zimbabwe. It's technically illegal to leave the country with more than 500 Z$ (< US$1), but it's also illegal for non-residents to buy foreign currency with Z$! The third foreign exchange bureau I tried was willing to exchange for me, but only up to the amount I had receipts (ATM slips) for. I only had enough slips for half my currency - but they gave me the receipts back! Two more bureau and I found a similar situation - only three hours to exchange all my money - nothing is ever easy! Entry: Checked my email - didn't answer since I thought I'd spend tomorrow morning doing that. Picked up my photos - I'm a little disappointed there are no shots that really grab me. I'm starting to get desperate for a new day pack - the zipper on mine is starting to get flaky and mine's not really big enough if I want to carry my SLR camera - so I shopped around. I found one that was almost what I wanted but I added that to my To Do list for tomorrow morning in town before heading to the airport. Entry: Back at the hostel I had a message from Air Zimbabwe. My nice civilized three-thirty P.M. flight has been changed to eight A.M. - which means laving the hostel at five thirty. So much for my tomorrow morning in Harare. Entry: Hung out at the hostel, drank beer, played cards. Packed. Packing was remarkably easy considering it's been seven months since I last had to do it. And I've added a tent, sleeping bag, and camera bag since then - guess I sent enough stuff home. Predictably ended up being a late night...

May
28

Lilongwe, Malawi
From Waterfalls, Harare, Zimbabwe Found In: Entry: Up before dawn - not happy. Ride to airport, say goodbye to Carl and Lene (who were going to the bus station). Somewhat the plane left about on time. It looks like there wasn't enough people to justify a separate plane to Lilongwe so they stuck us on a plane to Nairobi and apologized to the other passengers for the unscheduled stop - which explained the time change I was so unhappy about yesterday (and this morning). Entry: Unexciting flight. At Lilongwe Airport I shared a taxi with two other tourists. I chose to stay at Annie's Coffee shop - nothing spectacular, but there was only one other person in the dorms and surprisingly they have hot water - plus it's close to the bus station. Entry: Spent the day wandering around the market, then up to the crafts market. The people in the market are a lot more relaxed than in most markets I've been to in Africa. I looked at different cloths and talked to a couple tailors because I've decided to have a new sleep sheet made - my old one is falling apart after two years. I want to find a cool, ugly, or at least interesting wax print or batique to make it out of. Didn't find any cloth that interested me so I had a tailor sew up the worst of the rips in my current sheet and resolved to keep looking. Entry: At the crafts market I ended up buying five dozen carved elephants (five sets of Malawi calendars) - despite my resolve not to buy anything today. Entry: Had dinner at Annie's and hung out with the other guest (a Swede), and some local rasta guys. I was dying for sleep and ended up in bed before eight.

May
29

Monkey Bay, Malawi
From Lilongwe Found In: Entry: Woke up early and was at the bus station at 7:30. There were two busses I was interested in. The first left at eight and would take me to Monkey Bay via Salima along the lake. The second option was supposed to leave at 8:30 and would take me the much longer route via Liwonde. Both busses are supposed to take about the same amount of time as the lake road is in pretty bad shape. The 8:30 bus finally showed at 11:20 and departed an hour later. I'd pretty much forgotten what "real" African busses were like - there were three people for each seat. Luckily by the time the bus showed up I was so annoyed I held my place in line and physically prevented (most) people from cutting in front of me so I had a seat. Entry: It was a long and boring trip. The only remarkable bit was the depressing sight of a dead man. We drove by a guy on the side of the road with a huge puddle of blood around his head. There was a group of people standing around him, but no one looked sad or even angry, they just looked interested. I'll never (I hope) get used to the low value that life has here. Entry: I was expecting it to take five or six hours - it took over eleven! So instead of getting to Monkey Bay at one or two as I'd planed I got here at ten thirty - too late to try and continue to Cape Maclear. I did battle with the touts (boys) and found a passable hotel (well I've stayed in worse) mostly on my own. Exhausted, sore, and stiff I went to bed without diner.

May
30

Cape Maclear, Malawi
From Monkey Bay Found In: Region: Nankumba Peninsula Photo: Sunset behind Thumbl Island West, Cape Maclear, Malawi
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Photo: Sunset behind Thumbl Island West, Cape Maclear, Malawi
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Entry: Waited half an hour for a truck. Long, beautiful ride. The number of people in the back of the truck ranged from 17 to 22 - definitely in Africa. The first view of lake was stunning - it looks like an ocean. Entry: Was in Cape Maclear by eleven, but then had a long, hot walk. Went past two funerals - lots of beautiful singing. Had a little trouble with people wanting to guide me - but managed ok. Finally find "The Gap" the camp that Emma and Jeff had recommended. There were no singles available and I didn't feel like camping so I splurged the $1.50 for a double for myself. Entry: Relaxed, had a cold (and expensive) drink, then had a wander around. The crafts stalls here are very hard sale for Malawi, and not very willing to reduce the price with bargaining. Plus blatant lies - I had a boy swearing he'd been to Europe and right outside London seen a Chiefs Chair for sale for 1,800 pounds sterling. When I tried to explain that was ludicrous he kept on digging deeper (backgammon sets in the U.S. are at least $350), and got very annoying - don't think I'll be buying much here. Entry: Went to the recommended (by Emma and Jeff again) dive club, The Scuba Shack. There is no one here right now so the dive center will do pretty much whatever I want. Arranged for a dive at two o'clock, and went for some lunch (especially needed since I skipped diner last night). The dive was good, more fish than I expected, like aquarium fish - bright colors, but small. The scenery was unreal - huge boulders and spires coming out of the haze (visibility is just over 30 feet), and some swim-throughs. After the dive, talk about doing the Medic-First Aid and Rescue Diver course, but it depends on if another person wants to do it. Make an arrangement to do a wreck dive (which also happens to be deep - just over 100 feet) tomorrow morning. Entry: Watch a fantastic sunset behind an island (Thumbl Island West). Hang out in the bar the rest of the night with Peter (the manager of the Scuba Shack), Craig and Chris (the dive masters), Michael (the manager of the Gap's bar), his girlfriend Fiona, another Peter (dive instructor), and Patrick (the local bartender). Drink too much given that I'm supposed to do a deep dive tomorrow morning so talk to Chris about doing it later, or perhaps a shallower dive. Entry: Before going to bed I need to fill up my water bottle so I walk through the village under the full moon to the water pump - it was absolutely surreal and took me back to my first couple weeks in western Africa - specifically walking back from a bar alone late at night in Kan Kan. Except then I was very nervous and this is just beautiful - and somehow very pure.

May
31

Cape Maclear, Malawi
Found In: Entry: Woke up early feeling terrible, but went back to sleep. Woke up at eight feeling good, but still decide against doing a deep dive. Arranged for an medium depth afternoon dive instead. Entry: Hung out at the camp, walked along the beach, and through the village. Made a reservation for the Thursday car to Blantyre. Decided to try the Chocolate / banana cake the kids are always trying to sell on the beach - it's fantastic! Entry: Two women staying at The Gap ended up on the afternoon dive. They hadn't dove in the lake before so it took an extra hour to get them kitted up and orientated. We went to a site right off Thumbl Island West called Catfish Alley. We were guaranteed to see catfish - but we didn't. In the water waiting to get on the boat I talked to Nicole, one of the other divers, and we decided to do the Medic First Aid / Rescue Diver course (there has to be two people for them to run a course). Entry: Since I need to be back in Lilongwe Saturday (Sunday flight) I'm in a bit of a rush, so after a quick bite to eat (more chocolate cake and some banana bread) we started the MFA course. After dark I went back to the camp and spent the night studying while everyone else was getting stoned or drunk.

June, 1999

June
1

Cape Maclear, Malawi
Found In: Entry: Up way to early - at the dive center by 7:30. An hour of Medic / First Aid lecture and practice, then an hour and a half of Rescue Diver lecture and half hour of video followed by an hour in the water practicing. The practice was handling panicked or exhausted divers and Chris did his best to drown us. Entry: After a lunch break we kitted up and went for a dive. The scenario was that Peter (the instructor) and Chris (one of the dive masters) were novice divers and we should be paying attention to them. It was a riot in the water they did everything wrong and we struggled to get them to do it right / or keep them from killing themselves. Problems included improperly attached equipment, loss of equipment, runaway ascent / decent, entrapment, entanglement, running out of air, panic, and more - I had a blast and at times couldn't do the right thing because I was laughing so hard at the antics. Nicole (the other student) didn't approach it the right way and got out of the water very stressed and basically not happy. Entry: Had another hour of Rescue Diver lecture, then an hour of Medic / First Aid video before calling it a day - this two courses at once is brutal. Spent about an hour back at the campment doing the homework for tomorrow, then went to a local's restaurant (Thomas's) with a couple from the camp. I just had rice and beans, but it was excellent - exactly what I wanted. Spent the rest of the night playing Bawo - the East African answer to West Africa's Owari.

June
2

Cape Maclear, Malawi
Found In: Entry: Spent the early morning with the Medic First Aid class (video / lecture / practice). Late morning was spent with the Rescue Diver course. Talked about missing diver procedures, then Nicole and I had to get in the water. We did a search for a lost "diver" (a propeller) - which after a couple minor SNAFUs we found quickly. Entry: During lunch I walked over and cancelled my ride to Blantyre. After lunch we watched some more of the Rescue Diver video. It was very weird, here I am ten thousand plus miles from away from home and there's Diver's Cove, one of my old beaches in Laguna! Entry: Rest of the afternoon was spent with the diver recovery lecture and practice with unconscious / non-breathing diver recovery from both the surface and underwater. Late afternoon it was more MFA - which we finished! Hiked up to "Fat Monkey's" - an overlander's camp (currently deserted) for pizza with Nicole. It was pretty good but strange - there was no cheese! Played some more bawo then headed to bed.

June
3

Cape Maclear, Malawi
Found In: Entry: No more Medic First Aid lectures! Did a dive to the Usipa Point wreck (the deep dive I put off Monday morning). It was awesome. Saw some big catfish, including a mother protecting little ones living in the hold of the wreck. The wreck is just a 40 foot cabin cruiser that was intentionally sunk (it's graffittied with reminders to novice divers). Entry: Back on shore enjoyed some free chocolate cake - a wager on a game of bawo last night. Went therough the Rescue Diver lecture on equipment which was slightly interesting. After lunch rescued peter a few times. Since MFA is over we got off fairly early - it's weird to have the afternoon to myself. I had my money and passport in the safe - predictably the other Peter, who has the key, was out on a dive so ended up stuck at the Scuba center for an hour anyway. Entry: Done with all the Rescue Diver sections. All that's left is the test and the two scenarios. I was really ready to be done so I didn't even bring the book back with me - I know the stuff so studying wouldn't help - and I don't want to see the book anymore ayway. Entry: Spent the evening reading (recreationally), had another piece of chocolate cake, then went back to Thomas's for diner - rice and beans again - and still good.

June
4

Monkey Bay, Malawi
From Cape Maclear Found In: Entry: Somehow the time on Nicole's alarm clock got set wrong and since I don't have one we ended up getting to the dive center an hour late - and very confused - we thought we were getting there early. There'd been a hippo on the beach that morning and no one knew where it had gone to so we had to do our dives over on the island (it's too deep for hippos there)! Entry: We had to do two rescue scenarios for the end of the Rescue Diver course. Absolutely blew the first scenario - missing diver (the propeller again) - didn't even find it. Nicole and I made a plan, got in the water, changed our plan (mistake one) - originally we'd planned on running a U-pattern search parallel to shore, but in the water since the bottom was relatively flat decided to run it perpendicular to shore - thus being able to follow the contours of the island easier. I set the compass on the surface and we submerged. At the bottom while getting lined up with the compass I realized that the compass bezel was broken and turning freely (don't know why I didn't notice this at the surface when I set it). I thought I remembered the approximate bearing so decided to continue (second mistake). It turned out I didn't remember the correct bearing and we weren't even searching the right area. Obviously we didn't find the missing propeller. Plus with all the depth changes involved in the search pattern my ears were really starting to bug me. Entry: Back at the boat the second scenario started - Craig went "unconcious" and we had to bring him up from the bottom, get him in the boat, and pretend to do rescue breathing on him all the way back to the beach - and at the same time direct everyone else to help (two open water students, and the two Peters). It was pretty difficult because I could hardly hear anything because of the water in my ears. Even so only made a few mistakes getting him into and out of the boat - basically we did well. Entry: Back on shore took the exam (sixty questions - only missed one!) and then we were done with the Rescue Diver Course as well! Had a well deserved final piece of chocolate banana cake, said goodbye to everyone at the Scuba Shack, packed, said goodbye to everyone at The Gap. Then spent nearly two hours waiting for a pickup truck to Monkey Bay - luckily Nicole waited with me so it wasn't too boring. I realized fairly quickly that there was no way I was going to make it to Lilongwe tonight, and started to wonder if I was going to even make it to Monkey Bay. Finally managed to hitch a ride with some botanists (I think) to Monkey Bay. Got in to Monkey Bay around five so just got a hotel room and wandered around the market. Had a couple cold sodas, some fresh bread, and chips with chilies for diner. Hopefully I'll be able to catch an early morning bus...

June
5

Lilongwe, Malawi
From Monkey Bay Found In: Entry: Was at the bus stop at 6:30 since I never got a firm time. The bus showed up at 7:30 and we were on the road by 7:45. It was a pleasant surprise to realize that this was the short bus that I had tried to take on the way down but never showed up - it goes along the lake via Mua and Salima. Entry: The raod to Mua was horrible, but after that we made great progress. By noon we were in Salima with only 60 miles to go - but that took over 4 hours. It was an express bus which means it wasn't - the bus stopped every 500m and was so packed that it took ten minutes for someone to get off - we were probably moving less than half the time. Entry: Checked in to Annie's Coffe Shop again and went out to wander around the market looking for cloth. Everything was closing down so I didn't find anything. Sat around at Annie's with an English and a Dutch guy who were also staying there and had pizza and a few beers. Went to bed very early again.

June
6

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
From Lilongwe, Malawi Found In: Lodging: Safari Inn Entry: Went to bed so early last night I was up early this morning. Spent a couple hours wandering around the market. I was looking for some cloth that I liked so I could have a new sleep sheet made. Had a great time wandering - everyone seems in such a great mood. I didn't find any cloth a really liked so I bought the ugliest Malawi made wax print I could find. Took the cloth to the tailor next to Annie's and showed him the existing sheet and explained what I wanted different (longer, wider, and a pocket inside the pillow pocket). Entry: Wandered up to the crafts market but only bought a dominoes set. I sat down at one point to watch some men playing Bawo and next thing I knew I was playing! It was great, because all the people that were hounding me before were now amused with this crazy white guy sitting on the ground with them playing Bawo. I actually won the first three games (admittedly with lots of coaching - everyone wanted to help me learn) before I lost. When I realized what time it was and excused myself everyone invited me to come back to play tomorrow - and seemed genuinely disappointed when they heard I was leaving. What a great note to end Malawi on. Entry: Back at Annie's I changed to my nice "Airport" clothes and packed. At the tailor I picked up the second ugliest sleep sheet I have ever seen - the workmanship however is beautiful. He did an amazing job for his 160 Kwacha (just under $4). Entry: Walked back to the central market to find a taxi and negotiated a ride to the airport. Had an unexciting flight to Dar es Salaam. In Dar a man approached me at the baggage claim and asked if I was going to Zanzibar. I told him I was going in a few days and he was very helpful in explaining when the flight went and what they would cost. A little later he asked if I needed a transfer into town and offered me one for 10,500 Shilling - which is about what the guide book said it should cost. I didn't want to get pressured into anything though so arranged to call a couple places to see who had rooms available. While talking to one (the Safari Inn - where I've ended up) I asked and they said it should only cost 5,000. He came down to six, but the first taxi I asked said five, and I took it. Entry: The taxi driver was great and gave me a pretty good orientation of the city as we drove in. The hotel is way nicer than most of the places I've been staying (ensuite toilet / shower, sheets, towels, soap, ceiling fan, even a phone), but then again it's more than eleven times what I was paying in Cape Maclear ($8.57 vs. $.75). Entry: Settled in, then went out to see if the internet cafe on the corner was still open. It's open 'til midnight, cheap (~$1.50 / hour), fast, and friendly - I spent two hours and started to grind through the fifty messages waiting. Back at the hotel worked on my journal and wrote some email. To bed fairly late relative to what I've been doing recently.

June
7

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
Found In: Lodging: Safari Inn Entry: Tried to sleep in but construction wrok thwarted my plans. Had a special surprise this morning when I found out that it wasn the thermometer on the outside, not the water heater that was broken - so add to the list of luxuries a hot shower. Entry: Spent the entire day trying to find information on seeing the gorillas in Uganda and checking on flights. Basically no one seems to know anything beyond yes, there might be gorillas in Uganda. I tried every travel agent from the budget to the Shareton. Also found that there were no specials for the flights I want to do so from here to Morocco is going to cost well over a thousand dollars. Also while trying to figure out flights I realized that I don't have enough time - maybe I can scratch together a week for Uganda - but it's looking unlikely. Either way I'm running out of time so I need to get out of Dar and start seeing Tanzania tomorrow. Entry: I bought another travel guide, East Africa Handbook, whcih included Ethiopia unlike Lonely Planet. Spent a good part of the afternoon lounging in the luxury of the Sheraton lobby reading guide books. Had pretty much decided to skip Uganda when I ran into two Americans who raved about it and said there shouldn't be any problem seeing the gorillas - just show up. What to do...

June
8

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
Found In: Lodging: Safari Inn Entry: Frustrating morning. Got up early had breakfast, then called a recommended tour operator in Arusha. Booked a four day safari of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater parks starting tomorrow morning. Checked out of the hotel, and went to post a small parcel home. Entry: At the post office bought a box and tape, packed everything carefully. Waited in the very slow line at the parcel desk (one person "working", two people watching) and got sent to the customs desk. Waited in line there and got told I had to go to the customs cashier first. At the customs cashier (no line!) got asked what I was doing there and told to go to the customs desk - waited in line again. Got told to go to the customs cashier - explained that he had told me to go here. Unpacked my box so that everything could be inspected - carefully. Filled out forms, repacked the box, then back to the parcel desk. Waited in line again - still slow - filled out more forms, paid, box is sent: elapsed time nearly four hours! Entry: Went to the bus station to find that the last bus for Arusha leaves at 11:30 (it's now just after noon). Now I've got to get to Arusha by 9:30 tomorrow morning and the next bus leaves for the eight hour trip at six tomorrow morning - it's not going to work. I'm going to have to fly. Find a travel agent, but their flights person is out so they send me to another agent, which is closed. Get driected to a third agency which also turns out to be closed and finally find one that's open on my own. Book a ticket for 6:30 tomorrow morning (check in at 5:30). Entry: Have a nice (and very cheap - ~US$.60) sit down luch with two Americans, Ken and Justin (met Ken and his girl friend at the internet cafe a couple days ago). Aranged to meet them later for a beer. Re-checked in to the Safari Inn, then relaxed for an hour. Entry: Spent the afternoon working on email and walking around. Met up with Ken and Justin for a beer at a locals bar. They had to catch a ferry over to their campsite so they were only around for twenty minutes. On their way out we figured out that Ken and I had a good friend in common - very small world. Back at the hotel I verified that I had a wake up call and a taxi coming at five and then packed - again.

June
9

Mto wa Mbu (Mosquito Creek), Lake Manyara, Tanzania
From Dar es Salaam via Kilimanjaro; and Arusha Found In:

Photo: Flamingo, Lake Manyara, Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 675-907 Photo: Mountains, Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 675-907 Entry: Had to be up very early to catch the taxi to the airport. Good flight - The dawn was spectacular and Mt Kilamanjaro was very impressive sticking out of the clouds - I would love to see it on a clear day! Split a taxi into Arusha with some engineers (US$50 to Arusha!). In Arusha called the safari company from the engineer's hotel and they said they'd be by to pick me up in five minutes. ten minutes later they called back to ask what I was doing there. I said I was there for today's safari - they said they didn't have room for me, that I wasn't on the list. They said to hang on and called back in another ten minutes - said I could go tomorrow - I refused, and was very pissed off after having gone to all the trouble to catch a plane so that I could make it on time. Took a taxi down to the conference center where all the safari companies have offices and told them off in person. Entry: Started looking around the center and found a company that had a safari leaving today that I could get on. Actually the safari had already left to pick up people but they drove me down to the travel agent where I bought a ticket to Zanzibar directly from Arusha (so I could have an extra day on safari) and then got picked up by the Land Rover. When I'd asked about the others on the trip the director had told me that they were from Nairobi. When the truck picked me up there were two black women already on it, which fit, but when one of them asked me where I was from it was definitely not an Kenyan accent! They were both Americans - Lois a retired psychologist from Pittsburgh on a three month trip around the world (63 and carying a backpack!), and Aretha a young lawyer from Philadehia. It turns out that they'd been on safari in Kenya with the same company and had aranged the this trip through the Nairobi office - hence the report that they were from Kenya. Entry: The drive to Lake Manyara was good - it was really surreal seeing all the Masaai people in traditional garb on the street and even riding bicycles with spears and all. The Lake Manyara park was ok, but I didn't see anything really exciting. We're staying at a lodge tonight - I thought I was camping so this was a pleasant surprise since it's already been paid for. Terry an Australian guy met me us here to join the safari. Had a great diner then went off early to bed - it's been a very long day. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

June
10

Seronera, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
From Mto wa Mbu (Mosquito Creek), Lake Manyara via Naabi Hill Found In: Entry: Have breakfast, then head back to the lake. Not many animals. Get gear on to truck at hotel, wait for some others that are supposed to be joingin us, but they never show. Drive to Ngorongoro Crater. have lunch on the crater rim - very cold and foggy - so we can't see much of the ledgendary floor below. Drive to Serengeti through some incredible desolate land. Enter Serengeti through the Naabi Hill Gate. See lots of Zebra, ostrich, tons of different antelope, and a couple large pythons. Drop Lois off at a very nice hotel lodge that she had always wanted to stay at so had splurged. The rest of us head off to camp. See a lion right before getting to camp. The campsite is packed - there must be 150 tents in a very small area. Set up our tents - luckily I have my own as the two tents that the company supplied are soo bad that they have to be cannibalized to make one for Terry and Aretha - and it's not very stable or mosquito proof. Had a fantastic diner, and then played cards - Terry and I taught Aretha and Mohamed (the cook) Shithead. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

June
11

Seronera, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Found In: Photo: Zebras with Giraffes in background, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-309 Photo: Zebras with Giraffes in background, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-309 Entry: Woke up early by the noise of an overland group leaving at 5:30. First wild life of the day was a scorpian just outside tent, it was only a small one, but still could have skipped it. Had breakfast, then went to pick up Lois. We were the last people to leave the campsite - every single group had cleared out hours ago. The higlight of the day was three lionesses with zebra kill. Our driver scared off one of them, and almost the other two, but they came back when they realized the hyenas were moving in to clean up. The kill was obviously a few hours old as there wasn't much left of the zebra. It was pretty gruesome, but also absolutely facinating - I think I took about twenty pictures of the kill alone. Saw lots of zebras, but not the thousands we wanted to see migrating. Possibly saw a cheetah, but we never saw the ears move so we weren't sure. Many hippos - including a couple out of the water in the middle of the day! Entry: Back at the campsite for lunch, then the real highlight of the day - snuck into Lois' room for hot showers. Not that it really mattered as ten minutes into the afternoon drive we were absolutely filthy again. Didn't see much on the evening drive. But the lionesses were so cool this morning it didn't really matter. Dropped Lois off back at her hotel. Had a good diner - at least our cook is good. Aretha and I played cribbage for a bit. Before going to bed Terry, Aretha and I decided we wanted to go go on an early morning game drive like all the other groups do, instead of waiting until 7:30 / 8:00 to leave like our driver always wants to. "Massai" (our driver) is not happy about this, but we insist and he finally gives in. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

June
12

Crater Rim, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
From Seronera, Serengeti National Park via Naabi Hill, Serengeti National Park Found In: Photo: Flamingos, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-309 Photo: Flamingos, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-309 Photo: Flamingos, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-309 Photo: Flamingos in flight, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-309 Photo: Flamingos in flight, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-309 Photo: Kopji in landscape, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-309 Entry: Up before dawn to do a game drive - didn't see much. "Maasai", our driver and guide, is being very anoying - won't stop to let us take pictures when we ask - instead he says no we can get closer then invariably scares away whatever we were trying to take a picture of. Back at the camp we have breakfast, pack, and go pick up Lois from her posh hotel. Spend the day driving around the Serengeti. See a couple lionesses with a cub just barely visible. See tons of zebras and wildebeests. Later our driver screws up again and very nearly runs over a male lion sleeping in the road - Terry yelled at him and he slamed on the breaks, stopping 6 or 7 feet from the lion! Left Serengetting via the Naabi Hill gate - the same one we arived by, and hiked to the top of Naabi Hill - the view is amazing, the Serengeti is so flat it looks like you can see forever. Once at the crater it's clear, and the view down into it is absolutely spectacular - it's like looking out of an airplane window. Unfortunately it's cold - very cold. Set up camp and have an early diner. Aretha was in bed to keep warm before it even got dark. Terry and I were on our way at about seven when the tour company next to us started a fire so we went to make friends. Even so in bed by 9:30. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

June
13

Mto wa Mbu (Mosquito Creek), Lake Manyara, Tanzania
From Crater Rim, Ngorongoro Crater via Crater Floor, Road, Ngorongoro Crater; Crater Floor, First stop, Ngorongoro Crater; and Crater Floor, Second stop, Ngorongoro Crater Found In: Photo: Flamingo, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 130-178 Photo: Cubs nursing, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 732-405 Photo: Flying birds, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 732-405 Photo: Flamingos, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 732-405 Photo: Black rhino, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Entry: Incredible day! Went in to the crater. Ngorongoron Crater has to be the cown jewel of Africa's game parks. It's relatively small and the animals are very accessible - I think it's a bit of a garden of Eden to the animals. The highlight was definietly two linonesses with seven cubs. But there was so much more in the five hours we drove around the floor of the crater. After leaving the crater we drove back to the same hotel we stayed at the first night of the safari. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

June
14

Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania
From Mto wa Mbu (Mosquito Creek), Lake Manyara via Arusha; and Kilimanjaro, Tanza Found In: Entry: We had agreed last night to get an early start. Masai (our driver) had told us that it would take no longer than an hor and a half to get back to Arusha so we'd decided on breakfast at 6:30 so we could be off by seven. Well it worked out more like leaving at 7:30, but still not bad. Unfortunately it took us more like four hours to get back. Entry: We dropped Terry off at the bus station - he was going to try and jump on a bus and get to Dar es Salaam this evening so he could catch a morning ferry to Zanzibar. We made arangements to meet in Zanzibar tomrrow afternoon then left him. Hopefully he'll make it - he was looking very stressed dealing with the touts when we left. BAck at the tour company's office Aretha and I made arangements to get a ride to the airport (We're on the same flight) and then went for a wander through the center of Arusha. Ended up at the crafts market and spent a lot of time hanging out with some Masai women who were doing bead work. Didn't end up buying anything from them but it was still interesting. Did end up buying a Bawo game and a couple strings of beads. Entry: The drive to the airport also took longer than advertised, and combined with us being a little late we gotcame very close to missing out flight! But we got it - Makuta Makata! The flight was short and unexciting. Couldn't even seem to find Kilimanjaro after take off - and I went to all the trouble to be on the correct side of the airplane! The view of the island when we landed made up for it though... The most incredible tourquoise water. I decided to stay with Aretha since she'd already booked a nice hotel room - I'll just have to pay the upgrade to a double. The room is very nice - airconditioning, attatched batroom with hot water (!), two giant beds - excellent! Entry: I went to the travel agent and enquired abot flights again - since now I'm thinking I can save a couple days by flying directly from Zanzibar. Basically it's the same price, so I'll figure out the exact dates and come back tomorrow. Entry: Spent the afternoon wandering around Stonetown (the old part of Zanzibar Town). It's interesting - kind of a cross between a greek island and a middle east city. Lot's of winding roads through old buildings, lot's of mosques and traditionally dressed people, and unfortunately a lot of tourist. Honestly I'm a little disappointed - I'd expected more. Zanzibar's real appeal is that it's off the coast of Africa, not Syria. Pretty amazing how different it is from the mainland. Entry: Found an internet cafe with not too unreasonable prices and did a quick email scan. Then got hopelessly lost while trying to find the way back to the hotel. Ran into some other lost tourist, but at least they had a map. Someone passing by recognized the international distress signal (looking at the map upside down) and stopped to direct us - actually was only a couple hundred yards form the hotel! Decided to splurge and have a nice dinner so ate at the hotel (recomended by the guide book) - not bad, but still disappointing. Fortunately the shower was not disappointing - hot water - heaven!

June
15

Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Found In:

Entry: Spent the morning trying to fix my H/PC. Used dental floss, an old pen, toothbrush, and even a big knife but nothing was more than a temporary fix. Went to the internet cafe (the very slow but almost reasonable one) and got what was on my H/PC off and into my journal - from now on it's going to be typing at the internet cafe. So until I get a replacement (late August) the entries are going to be a little briefe and maybe few and far between. Entry: Spent the afternoon wandering around old Stonetown. Found the fort and checked out Jamituri Gardens (right in front of the fort on the water). The gardens are supposed to be the best place in Zanzibar for cheap street food, but I was disappointed - no one there except a couple kiosk type cafes. Wandered down to the port and enjoyed the hassels - as I needed no ferry tickets or spice tours. Took care of a few details (mainly finding a somewhat reasonable forex) and then found the tourist office. The tourist office was a bit useless - they had maps, but the cheapest one wasn't any better than the guidebooks, and cost more than $2! Walked the rest of the way around Stonetown back to the fort and explored the inside. not much in the fort except a few overprices curio stores and a small cafe. Aparently at night they make use of the Amphitheater with a cultural show (dancing and the like) - think I'll be skipping it. Entry: Went back to the travel agent to finalize my tickets through to Morocco. It was obviously quite a challenge, I had all four travel agents on the phone and busseling to get it done. Granted it was not a simple ticket: Zanzibar - Nairobi - Entebbe (Kampala) - Addis Abu - Cairo - Casablanca, but it was quite funny. The agents were all traditionally dressed Muslim women and they were very cute in a flustered kind of way. Spent an hour (and a lot of money) there, then left with the understanding that I'd pick up my ticket tomorrow. Entry: Aretha and I went to meet Terry at the Africa House Hotel - the old English club from the protectorate days. We were about 20 minutes late (due to the travel agency) but Terry was no place to be seen. Sat there for an hour and a half and watched the sun go down - very pleasant setting - but still no Terry. Entry: For diner decided to go past the gardens again on the way to a restaurant. Things have changed! Jamituri Gardens is a regular carnival once the sun goes down. There were maybe twenty tables selling all kinds of sea food (octopus, squid, fish, shrimp, and lobster), meats (chicken and beef), and a variety of vegitarian foods - all incredibly cheap - and from what I sampled very tasty. Stuffed myself for $2 - should have come here last night, but I definitely know where I'm having diner tomorrow. Played a few games of Bawo then luxuriated in watching some CNN before going to bed.

June
16

Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Found In:

Weather: Rain Photo: Rain!, Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Entry: Woke up to pouring rain. Had breakfast, but alas today it was still raining. Braved the rain to the internet cafe and spent an hour. Walked outside the internet cafe and turned right around it was absolutely pouring, so I spent another hour and a half with email. Entry: In the afternoon went to pick up my tickets. Should be quick, right? Nope. Spent an hour and a half while they wrote out the tickets and figured out what my visa situation is - again. Finally leave with my tickets and head back to the Africa House for sundowner again. Entry: Made arangements to do a couple dives tomorrow (the dive club is under the Africa House), then wandered up for a beer. While sitting on the deck (under the roof) at Africa House it poured rain - so no sunset, but the quantity of rain was impressive. Met Aretha and Hanna (was in the tent next to mine on the Ngorogor Crater Rim) and around Sunset the rain stopped and we headed back t0o the park for diner. Another excellent (and cheap) diner of street food (already looking forward to tomorrow night!)

June
17

Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Found In: Entry: Did a couple dives today. The first was excellent - much better than I expected. The highlight of the dive was a big (four foot long) hawks bill turtle. He didn't care that we were there and completely ignored us - even when touched. The coral was far better that I expected (Good variety and very little dead), the visibility was good (45+ feet), and there were lots of fish (and a small shark). The second dive wasn't as good. There was a resort diver with us so we couldn't go very deep - though he was out of air in fifteen minutes. The visibility wasn't as good and there wasn't as much to see (highlight was a bashful lion fish). It was also a bit of a bonus to get to see Stonetown from the water. Entry: Back at the hotel I found a message from the travel agent that they needed to see me. It turns out that they had to reissue the ticket because Kenya Air (whose stock the ticket was issued on) doesn't have an agreement with Royal Air Moroc (the carrier for the Cairo - Casablanca leg). So now I'm flying from Cairo to Casablanca on Egypt Air. The advantage is I get to spend a little more time in Cairo (26 hours), the disadvantage is that I don't get into Casablanca until fairly late and I might not be eligible for a transit visa since the stay is longer than 24 hours. Anyway got the new ticket issued and went to the Egyptian Consulate to find out about getting a visa. It took me a while to find it, and when I did it was closed - closes at three. Tomorrow... Entry: Went to Africa House again for sundowners - first decent sunset we've had. Met Aretha, Lois, and Lois's friend there as well. All we needed was Terry for a safari reunion. Also met a guy who graduated from UCSD (my alumni) the same year I did. He's working in Kampala now so I'm going to try and meet him next Friday when I get there. Entry: Diner was at the garden again. Still good. Still cheap.

June
18

Nairobi, Kenya
From Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania Found In: Entry: Packed and checked out of the hotel. Left my bags and went to take care of my final business in Zanzibar. Wandering around the maze trying to find a short cut I found an architectural store (sold pieces of old buildings - paneling, doors, pillars, etc.) they also had a large collection of old clocks - mostly manufactured around a hundred years ago in Zanzibar. I spent an hour looking and if I'd had the time to pack and ship it I'm pretty sure I would have bought one. Entry: Now that I'm going to be spending nearly twenty six hours in Cairo the first real task of the day was to find out about a visa for Egypt. The consulate wasn't in so I had to leave my passport and tickets. The secretary couldn't tell me how much it would cost, only between 10,000 and 40,000 Tanzanian Shillings ($14 - $57). Since there was no way I was going to sit in the Cairo airport for more than a day I agreed to come back in an hour. Spent more than an hour wandering around the bazaar area but didn't buy anything. Back at the consulate I got very nervous when nobody answered the door - they had my passport and tickets and I was supposed to catch a plane in just over an hour! After several minutes of mounting anxiety someone opened the door. I filled out some forms, got my visa, and headed for the hotel to collect my bags. Entry: At the airport chaos seemed to reign. Check-in was at a counter made of a board laid across a couple barrels. Somehow it seemed to work though. While in line a man came up and asked if I was Anthony Jones - the Egyptian consulate had called the airport because they had forgotten to get a photo! Luckily I had one - though I can't think what they could have done at that point... Entry: The ride to Mombassa was very short. In Mombassa everyone had to get off the plane and go through customs and immigration - it was a bureaucratic nightmare since quite a few of the passengers were transiting so didn't have (or need) visas for Kenya. Since I'm going to be in Kenya six hours less than a full week I barely qualified for a transit visa - $20 instead of $50! An other short flight got us to Nairobi. Aretha was on the same flight and we had decided to go to Carnivore's for diner. She already had a room and ride arranged so I decided to stay at the same hotel since I had no other ideas. At least that would save me the $10 taxi fare into town. Unfortunately her ride ended up being nearly two hours late! Entry: Checked into the hotel and headed for the restaurant. A rather long taxi ride got us to what is probably Kenya's most touristed spot - and it looks it. Fortunately the food was great. I was a bit disappointed that they only have five kind of game each night, but the Crocodile, Ostrich, Waterbuck, and even the Zebra were excellent. My favorite was definitely the Waterbuck followed by Ostrich. After stuffing ourselves it was back in to town. Aretha was meeting a friend at a bar so I joined her. It was more of a club, and not to bad at that, but the music was so loud it was impossible to think - much less talk. I watched Dallas win the Stanley Cup on the television then headed for bed.

June
19

Nairobi, Kenya
Found In: Entry: Not the most productive day. Headed out to the Come to Africa (the company I went on safari with in Tanzania) office. In Tanzania they had told me they organized gorilla trips in Uganda and that I could get information in Nairobi. Well they don't - the best they can do is organize the permit for me - something I can do easily enough on my own once I get to Kampala. Entry: Since all the other chores I have to do in Nairobi have to wait until Monday I spent the rest of the day wandering around the city center. The city is actually pretty compact. I visited the main markets (both food and crafts). Also did the rounds of the curio shops. There are some fantastic stores with stuff from all over Africa - made me wish I'd bought more souvenirs. The main thing of notice was the prices - Nairobi is not a cheap city. I asked about some wood carvings and the starting price was ten times the starting price of the same items in Zanzibar - and I thought Tanzania was expensive! I'm fairly certain that most of this stuff could be found considerably cheaper at home. Entry: Also managed to buy a book, some toiletries, and basically figure out the layout. The harassment factor of Nairobi is very hi. Everyone wants to get the commission for selling you a safari or bringing you into a shop. I think a year ago I would have hated the city - now I just try to maintain the proper attitude. Even so it was a welcome relief to find someone working at a tea counter who treated me like a human - it was amazing what a relief a smile, an honest recommendation, and the correct price could be - just the reminder that there are still real people, even in Nairobi. Entry: Had a fast food diner and spent the evening reading. Not that I'm going to be careless, but Nairobi doesn't feel nearly as threatening as I'd expected it to be.

June
20

Nairobi, Kenya
Found In: Entry: Sunday = Slow day. Wandered around the streets at first looking for anyplace with internet access open, and then anyplace open. Was going to go out to the Langata Rothschild Giraffe Center but I couldn't find the matatu that went out to Langata and eventually decided I wasn't motivated enough. Entry: Went to the market again - this time bought some things. Had to fight hard for a decent price but the slowness of Sunday helped. Ended up buying a couple alabaster globes, a soapstone jewelry box (something I really didn't need - but I didn't expect my price to be taken seriously), and three strings of Masai marriage beads - brilliant blue glass beads. Entry: Spent the rest of the day reading. Over a soda, in the park, over pizza, over a couple beers, just reading. Just before dusk I walk down to the city center to the cinema to check on seeing a movie. The movies were all finished for the day so I decided to wander around a bit to see how the city changed. I didn't feel at all threatened, but it quickly became apparent that other people felt that I was and after the enough looks I hustled back to the hotel.

June
21

Nairobi, Kenya
Found In: Entry: Since my entire reason for being in Nairobi was to get a visa for Ethiopia that was my first order of business. The Ethiopian embassy was larger than I expected, but the application process was easier. Although at $70 it's got to be close to the most expensive visa I've ever bought (it seems like Russia was around $80 - but that included rush fees). But tomorrow morning I should have my visa and that should be the end of my visa worries for Africa (I can get Uganda at the airport, I have Egypt, and don't need one for Morocco). Entry: Went to the American Express representative and picked up some letters - some going back as far as April! While there I booked a flight to Lamu tomorrow. I've only got two days since I want to be back here in Nairobi by Thursday night so I've decided to go hang out on the beach. Entry: Rest of the day was spent on the Internet, reading, and walking around the city center. All the touts know me by now so I don't get hassled too much and everyone greets me by name - it feels like I've been here years, not days. For diner I went to a recommended Italian restaurant. It was nice, but the lack of company sort of spoils a nice meal. After diner I went and saw Shakespeare in Love. I went to see it against my better judgement, but it was excellent. Tomorrow needs to be an early day since I have to pack, pick up my visa, and if possible visit the once a week Maasai market - all before my early afternoon flight so it's off to bed relatively early.

June
22

Lamu, Kenya
From Nairobi via Wilson Airport, Nairobi; and Manda Island Found In:

Weather: Overcast / Partial Sun / Rain Entry: After packing, breakfast, and checking out I still had a couple hours until I needed to head for the embassy and airport. I'd planned on checking out the weekly Maasai market, walking around the city, checking email, and getting lunch. I made it to the market. I'd gotten the feeling that the market wasn't going to be that interesting - I was wrong. I recognized many of the owners of market stalls and curio shops buying there. Things were much more reasonable (with bargaining - of course), and there was a fantastic selection. Plus I felt better about giving the money directly to the crafts people. Also there were items from all over Africa. I spent my entire two hours there and only made it about half way through the market. I had picked out a number of things that I was going to go back and buy but was rudely interrupted when I asked someone the time and realized I was already fifteen minutes late. As it was I bought an old Maasai calabash (decorated gourd used to carry milk), an Ethiopian cross, a pair of sandals (requested by a friend at home), and a beaded bracelet. If I'd had the time I would have spent at least $100 more... Entry: Rushed back to the hotel to collect my luggage and meet Henry (my taxi driver). Got to the Ethiopian embassy minutes before their closing for lunch and picked up my passport with the shinny new Ethiopian visa (if I'd missed them it wouldn't have been a huge deal - I'd just have to pick it up Friday morning - I'm more comfortable having it with me). At the airport checked in and got hit up because my luggage was about twice the allowance but a smile and a handshake was bribe enough. Entry: The plane is a nine seater Cessna Caravan I - I have no idea how old. The flight is far from smooth but very scenic - also longer than I thought, almost two hours. Entry: Took a short ferry from Manda Island (where the airport is) to Lamu. Set up in a very nice hotel right on the water for about $11 (low season means bargaining is quite productive). Spent the evening wandering around doing my best to get lost. Lamu is a lot like Zanzibar - except it's dirty, rat infested, rusting, and crumbling at the edges. It's also a lot more friendly and feels a lot more authentic - it hasn't been white washed over yet. The winding back streets are almost reminiscent of Fés or even Aleppo - no way cars are ever going to invade here. A sudden and very unexpected rain chased me inside, luckily at one of three places on the island where you can get a beer (at least cold), plus it's up above to catch the breeze and overlooks the channel between Lamu and Manda. Entry: Wandered around again after dark - I can't believe how different these places feel once the sun goes down. Lamu has a definite buzz after dark - totally unlike Zanzibar. Had a great dinner of street food (samossas plus sin-sin for desert - kind of like peanut brittle with sesame seeds instead of peanuts).

June
23

Lamu, Kenya
Found In: Photo: Minaret, Shela, Lamu Island, Kenya
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Entry: Beach day. As there is no beach in Lamu Town, walked the forty minutes down to Shela, the neighboring village. The walk didn't exactly involve swimming - but I considered myself lucky to get there with my gear mostly dry. South of Shela the beach lays untouched as far as you can see. I walked an hour out and an hour back and only passed one group of people (three tourists asleep on the sand). It was fantastic - it seemed that you could walk forever without encountering a single person! Entry: Spent the afternoon roasting on the beach. It was excellent, except that the steady wind and fine sand meant that I was encrusted minutes after swimming or applying sunscreen. On the way back I decided to take a dhow, except I wasn't willing to pay for the entire boat so I opted to wait (200 KSh vs. 50 KSh). After an hour of waiting I gave up and started walking. The tide was out so it was a much easier walk - though, of course, two people from the hotel passed on a dhow about ten minutes into the walk. Near Lamu I stopped for a fresh orange and pineapple juice - it was so good that I sat there and watched the world go by through a second. Even closer to town I had some fresh potato and curry samossas off the street (at five shillings each diner cost me less than $.25!) Entry: Back in Lamu proper I picked up my laundry from the hotel manager (first time I've had clean close since the Serengeti!) Then took a well deserved shower and hung out reading the guide book on Uganda. I met an other American, Michael (ex Peace Corps Cameroon) and went to the Petler's Inn for beers. Several hours, many beers, and about ten people joining us later it was way past bed time for me.

June
24

Nairobi, Kenya
From Lamu via Manda Island; and Wilson Airport, Nairobi Found In: Entry: Didn't do much today. Packed, then spent the afternoon hanging out at the waterfront - drinking juice and talking with the dhow captains. At 2:30 caught the ferry over to Manda Island. I was the only person on the flight back to Nairobi, and this time it was in a big (well bigger) airplane - a twin engine Otter. The flight back was long and bumpy - the highlight was flying over Lamu at fairly low altitude. From Wilson Airport (Nairobi's small domestic airport) I caught a taxi through some of the worst traffic I've ever experienced to the same hotel. Because of the traffic I was too late to accomplish anything so I just checked in and walked across the street to Steers for a fast food diner. Entry: After diner I worked on my journal and some email and packed so that I'm all ready for the flight to Uganda tomorrow. For some reason I'm exhausted so it was early to bed.

June
25

Kampala, Uganda
From Nairobi, Kenya via Entebbe Found In: Entry: Up early, had breakfast, and went looking for a phone. Tried to call home, but just couldn't seem to find an international line. Guess I'll have to try from Kampala. Spent a frantic 45 minutes on the internet trying to at least read the new stuff. Rushed to meet Henry (my taxi driver) and get to the airport thirty five minutes before the scheduled departure - none of the two hours early for international flights here! Entry: After a twenty minute wait on the runway the rest of the flight went smoothly. The clouds began to clear just as we started to pass over Lake Victoria - it is big. At the airport I finally opted to take a private hire taxi - it's expensive, but dealing with my expanded luggage would be very much a pain any other way. The drive was beautiful - Uganda is an incredibly green country. There are bananna trees everywhere giving the countryside a very tropical feel. In Kampala found a reasonably nice if basic guest house and checked in. Entry: Walked around central Kampala. The city center isn't really distinguishable from any other city. The ride into the city showed lot's of green, but it seems to be mostly absent from the center. I went to a safari company to see what could be done about the gorillas. There are permits available for Bwindi early next week - but they're expensive: US$300 ($250 straight from the park office). Getting there is also difficult as the daily bus isn't running daily. I'll go, but I'm going to put off until tomorrow to commit to a day. Had a nice lunch at a Chinese restaurant - it was great, except as usual I was reminded of how disappointing dinning on my own is - think I'll stick to street food. Entry: Walked around the central market - just outside my guest house! Strangely enough it seems to specialize in shoes. Everyone is very friendly, but one thing is already starting to bother me, just like West Africa, everyone calls you the local equivalent of "White Person" - except here it's Mazingo (in W. Africa it was Toubab or Toubabo). They did the same thing in Kenya and Tanzania but not nearly this much - I feel like I'm being called boy, and at times it's hard to maintain the proper attitude. I really think people are just trying to be friendly, but that makes it worse. Did learn that busses don't run on Sunday. That means I have to go to Bwindi tomorrow sans permit - hoping I can get one there, or wait until Monday - which might be a bit tight on my schedule. Entry: Went out to the sports bar Just Kicking - it's a way out of the center, and quite difficult to find with local help, but eventually made it. I was supposed to meet Michael (met in Zanzibar) here. Had a beer, the two more, found my self actually watching Wimbledon! Was about to leave when finally he showed up. Met lots of people - many who I'd met on my own anyway - and had a couple more beers, but really didn't learn anything I wanted to (i.e. how to get to Bwindi easily or when the rafting trips leave). My current plan is to try and catch a rafting trip on Sunday, then leave for Bwindi on Monday - backwards from what I originally planned, but it seems likely that there will be a raft trip on Sunday and a bus on Monday - and it gives me some slack if I don't see the gorillas the first day. Back in bed around one.

June
26

Kampala, Uganda
Found In: Photo: Hindu Temple, Kampala, Uganda
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-338 Entry: The main goal of today was to secure a permit to track the mountain gorillas in Bwindi National Park. I hired a taxi to take me to the Uganda Parks Authority office quite a ways outside of the city center - according to the Lonely Planet. I got what I thought was a great price for the taxi, but then he delivered me to the office - in the city center. Anyway would have never found the office using either guide book (the Footprint Handbook has it in yet a different spot?!?). Anyway the booking procedure was straight forward as there were no other reservations on the day I wanted (Tuesday, the 29th). I opted for the smaller of the two available groups because it has an infant which supposedly means the Silver-back is more attentive and aggressive. One slight problem was that one of the $50 bills I'd brought with me to pay for the permit (total: $250!) was from before 1990 and therefore they couldn't take it. The woman agreed to keep the office open for me and I had to walk down the road to the Sheraton hotel to cash a travelers check. Entry: While at the Sheraton I discovered two things: an internet cafe, and Starcom phones (cheaper international calls). So after getting my permit I went back. I spent a little over an hour answering email - a nice fast connection. Also took advantage of the Sheraton's lobby and read my guide book, contacted Adrift to try and arrange rafting tomorrow, and had a cup of real coffee (the cup cost half as much as my nights accommodation). Entry: Walked the long way back to my guest house via the crafts market. I found the market very disappointing, most of the things seemed to be from Kenya or Tanzania and everything was fairly expensive. The highlight of the market was a map of Africa rendered in bottle caps stamped into the ground in front of the refreshment stand. Walked back to my guest house. Entry: Spent the late afternoon reading the guide book - trying to make some plans for Ethiopia. Walked back to the Sheraton and splurged on a salad for diner. While there called my parents, called the rafting company to see if the trip was on (it is!), and spent another hour on the internet updating my journal. Back in my room I did some more research on Ethiopia, worked on my journal, and packed for tomorrow.

June
27

Kampala, Uganda
Via Start Rafting, White Nile; and Finish Rafting, White Nile Found In: Stop: Start Rafting, White Nile, Uganda Stop: Finish Rafting, White Nile, Uganda Photo: Kids deflating raft, Outside Jinja, Uganda
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Entry: Rafting day! Had to get up way too early. Met the company and the other rafters at the Sheraton Hotel. Had an hour and a half drive to Jinja (second largest city in Uganda) and then another fifteen minutes to the starting point on the White Nile. Entry: We divided into two groups of six plus a guide for each raft. My raft had Tom and Christine (an American couple - driving around East Africa for six months), Tim (a pilot for British Airways - a layover), Mikael (a Slovenian Dentist on holiday), Adam our guide (an Australian) and his girlfriend (I think). Had a great time rafting. Spent about five hours on the river, through maybe 20 rapids class three or bigger (including four class fives). All in all it was a lot more exciting that the Zambezi though it was a lot more work as well (everyone paddles and the guide's paddles is the same as everyone else's). We managed to do the entire day without flipping the boat (the other raft flipped twice) - though I did get tossed in on one of the class fives (four of us went swimming on that rapid). Entry: On the drive back beer was supplied and it went quickly. Back at the Sheraton I quickly check email, then go on a quest to find someplace willing to cash a travelers check on a Sunday night - otherwise I am not going to have enough shillings to make it to Bwindi tomorrow. After finally being successful at a neighboring hotel I ran into Tim, Tom and Christine - all cleaned up now - and went into the Sheraton bar with them. Ended up hanging out with Tim and some of his flight / cabin crew. Have diner at an Ok Italian place, try to go to the Casino but get kicked out (I'm still in shorts) so go back to the Sheraton and suddenly it's way after three. Entry: By the time I walk back and pack and get all set up for tomorrow (I'm leaving a bag here) it's 4:35 am and I'm setting the alarm for 5:30...

June
28

Buhoma, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
From Kampala via Rukungiri; and Kihihi Found In: End Location: Buhoma, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda Photo: Impenetrable Forest, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Entry: When the alarm went off at 5:30 I decided I was entirely packed and ready so I could sleep another 45 minutes. When the alarm went off at 6:15 I got dressed and raced to the bus station. I got directed to a but and thirty minutes later (at seven) it was off. It was one of the most uncomfortable busses I've ever been on. I was so tired I kept nodding off and smacking my head on something - there was no place to rest my head. Entry: Got to Rukungiri at twelve thirty. Immediately got on a Matatu (shared taxi van). It's been a long time since I've been on a proper long distance shared taxi and I'd forgotten how it works. First sat there until it was nearly full (elapsed time 15 minutes; 14 people). Then drive through town picking up more people until it's overfull (20 min; 18 people). Go back to the taxi park and let some people out but put more in (30 min; 18 people). Go to the tire shop to get a spare - and a few more people (45 min; 20 people). Gas station (50 minutes; 20 people). Back to the taxi park to put a truly incredible amount of people in - now we can go (1 hour 15 minutes and 28 people. The three hour drive was very uncomfortable - no room, stuffy, still banging my head (causing a headache), and bad road. This drops me off in Kihihi - still 40 km away from where I thought the original bus was going to drop me! Hire a pickup truck to take me the 55 km to the Bwindi National Park gate. Entry: Finally start setting up camp twelve hours after starting off from Kampala. There is supposedly one other Mazungo here, but I haven't seen him. Even so we're still out numbered about ten to one staff to guests - and at least half of them have automatic weapons. I'm exhausted, but need to eat something - I haven't eaten anything all day. Unfortunately no tourist means all the restaurants are closed. I finally talk a shop keeper into opening the store and I buy two bananas, a chocolate bar, and a box of biscuits - and diner is served. Read a bit and listen to the sounds - it's a bit creepy and this is the first time in Africa that I've camped completely on my own. Also realized that with out any mattress or pad this might be a bit uncomfortable - good thing I'm so tired...

June
29

Butogota, Uganda
From Buhoma, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park via Gorillas! - Bwindi National Park Found In: Stop: Gorillas! - Bwindi National Park, Uganda Route: Gorilla Tracking in Bwindi; Pickup: Buhoma - Butogota Lodging: Pineapple Club and Lodge Photo: Mountains through mist, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Photo: Flies, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 750-828 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Gorillas, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Entry: Woke up a few times cold or sore from sleeping on a rock, but all in all slept very well. Got up, picked up a to go lunch from the canteen (4 eggs, 3 bananas, and a chipote). Went to the park headquarters and met the other tourist here. The German guy I was told about is actually a Japanese woman. The Gorilla tracking party consists of us two, two trackers, a guide, and three heavily armed soldiers (glad to see they have grenades). Entry: Took off through the Impenetrable Forest. "Impenetrable" is an exaggeration - but not much of one. We head straight up the side of the mountain. Within thirty minutes my heart is pounding and I'm panting - this is tough and I am still out of shape! On our way to where the Gorillas were seen yesterday to begin tracking we get lucky and find signs of them only an hour and a half in. Unfortunately it's through an amazing assortment of thorny plants - even with the guides steadily hacking away with machetes it's difficult going. Within a few minutes of following their trail we find stripped sticks and droppings. Thirty minutes later we see our first gorilla! Entry: The troop is supposed to consist of twenty three gorillas. Unfortunately the bush is quite dense here and often there was a gorilla no more than ten feet away that we could barely see. Luckily the young ones seemed a lot more courageous so we had a couple of them go on feeding on top of a bush maybe twenty feet from where we were. Caught a glimpse of the gray back through a bush (again maybe ten feet away), then very briefly again chasing off one of the youngsters. Moving around the troop for an hour (maximum time you are allowed to spend with the gorillas) we saw or caught glimpses of maybe twelve different animals. Entry: I'm glad I did it - I don't regret it at all - but I don't think I'd do it again. I was a bit disappointed - I've talked to so many people who talked about what it was like to look into the eyes of something so human like - I didn't feel it. It was fairly amazing to be so close to such giants though. Entry: An hour and a half hike back to the camp (I fell a dozen times - this is still not easy hiking). I packed up my tent and other gear and took an icy but very needed shower and headed for Butogota. Luckily I was able to hitch a ride on a military transport right from the gate so I didn't have to walk to far. In Butogota there's not a whole lot to do and the bus doesn't leave until tomorrow morning (early!) There's no electricity or running water in town - so I can't even have a cold Coke.

June
30

Kampala, Uganda
From Butogota Found In: Entry: Hellish day. Up several hours before dawn to catch the five AM bus. Ended up spending over twelve hours on the bus. Perhaps the most frustrating part was sitting with the engine running for two hours in Rukugiri - every five minutes the driver would get in and rev the engine and honk the horn as if we were just about to depart. This was repeated for an hour in Mbara as well - though only for an hour. Entry: Coming in to the station (just outside the market) in Kampala I saw some street justice in action - three men beating a bloody man with sticks. The man eventually go away and the three vigilantes were congratulated by many locals. My guess is he was caught stealing something - I'm a little disturbed by how little it disturbed me - maybe I've been in Africa to long... Entry: The guest house I stayed at before was full. I decided that after the trials and lack of comfort of the last three days I deserve a treat - so I picked up the bag I left and headed for a relatively nice hotel - it even has hot water! I considered the Sheraton but I just couldn't justify it. As it is this is costing me nearly ten times what the guest house did (more a comment on the cheap price of the guest house than the expense of this place). Entry: I went up to the Sheraton to check email (trying to coordinate with my friend Dawn about arriving in Ethiopia on Friday). On the way back I ran into the some of the people I was hanging out with on Sunday night (British Airways cabin crew) - ended up being another late night.

July, 1999

July
1

Kampala, Uganda
Found In:

Entry: Pouring rain when I woke up (late, around ten), so after working on my journal, and sorting through my gear I went back to bed! Spent most of the afternoon doing laundry (just couldn't bring myself to pay the hotels $3-$8 per item!), searching out a box to send a parcel home, packing the parcel, and sending it (actually sent it air mail since I want it to get back to the US before I leave). Packed my bags (it's a little easier with all the souvenirs gone!) Went up to the Sheraton to hang out with the airplane people again - many of them had gone rafting today (they were showing a lot of war wounds). Relatively early to bed since I have a taxi arriving at 5:15 tomorrow morning.

July
2

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
From Kampala, Uganda via Entebbe, Uganda Found In: Route: Taxi: Kampala - Entebbe; Ethiopian Airlines Flight FT858: Entebbe - Addis Entry: Up way to early, long unexciting taxi ride to the airport. In Entebbe the sunrise was incredible. I had to stop at the top of the airplane's boarding ramp and spend a few minutes looking over lake Victoria - almost made getting up early worth while... almost. Entry: Ethiopia is a bit challenging - with the different language and worse different writing. I was glad that my friend Dawn was there to meet me. Had lunch at the U.N. Complex (where Dawn works) and spent the rest f the afternoon trying to figure out my plans for while I'm here in Ethiopia and figuring out the local system. Entry: The local writing is obviously completely out of my reach - 236 character of the Amharic language are never going to make any sense to me (they look like a cross between Hebrew and Arabic). I eventually gave up on the calendar as well (the Julian calendar - 12 months of 30 days and one month of 5 or 6 days; plus it's 7 years 8 months behind ours!) The time system at least I think I can grasp. Basically it's a twelve hour clock starting at six AM (day hours) and six PM (night hours). So four in the day is ten AM, and ten at night is is four am. This is really and exotic place... Entry: Dawn and I were going to go to Lalibela this weekend but the flights were completely booked - it turned out that all flights this weekend were completely booked! Eventually ended up spending a couple hours with the travel agent trying to work out a way to see what I wanted to see given the time restraints and the fact that many of the flights are already booked out. Monday I head to Harar, Wednesday to Bahar Dar (via Addis), Saturday to Lalibela (where I'll meet Dawn), Monday to Gondar, and Wednesday back to Addis Ababa. Unfortunately you can't get to Axum (where the Ark of the Covenant is kept) due to the war. Entry: Went to a French movie at the U.N. complex (which I understood very little of) then had a party at Dawn's house. The main street leading to Dawn's house was complete shut down due to thousands of Eritreans who were being deported. The situation was ugly - lot's of men with sticks keeping people in place and lots of other men with guns watching over the entire thing. Entry: José (a co-worker of Dawn's) and I headed out to buy a crate of beer - unfortunately the only way we could get it back to the house was to either go through the middle of the mob or wander through some unlit back streets we didn't know. We ended up going through the mobs - basically as quickly as possible with our heads down. Got a few comments and it felt a bit scary, but nothing happened. It looked as though not many people were going to show up at the party due to the street being closed, but it turned out a sizable group worked its way there. There were twenty to thirty people from all over Africa and a handful of people from North America (mostly U.N. or O.A.U.) - it was a great mix. After everyone left Dawn and I sat up talking. Went to bed around two thirty.

July
3

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Found In:

Entry: Slept in - finally! I ended up getting up around 10:30. Spent the morning lounging around working on my journal. Dawn got up around 12:30. She's not feeling that well so we took it easy. Mid afternoon we headed out to the Piazza. It's an area of town with lots of old buildings, people, and stores - lot's of character. We stopped and had coffee (Ethiopian coffee is awesome), Went in to a local cafe type place that was absolutely packed. Everyone was eating the same thing so I tried a piece - it was baklava (kind of) it was incredible sweet and there was no way I could eat the entire thing. Tried to go to a restaurant for an early diner but it didn't open until seven so we sat in a tea house and drank tea and played cards for an hour or two. Entry: Went to diner at an amazing Italian restaurant. Dawn's still not feeling well - I think it's Girardia, but she went to a doctor last we and he didn't think it was. Went back to the house and she immediately went to bed. I stayed up and cleared the rolly polly bugs off my bed then read.

July
4

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Found In:

Photo: Addis skyline past Mercado, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Entry: Dawn was sick again today. Since it was pouring rain I hung out with her roommates, and read, until mid-afternoon when the sun came out. Dawn was still in bed so I ventured out into Addis on my own. None of the streets in Dawn's neighborhood have names so I wrote down the name of a couple of hotels and did my best to remember land marks so I could find my way back - since Dawn doesn't have a phone I'm in trouble if I can't! Entry: Caught a taxi back to the Piazza. Wandered up towards the cathedral - stopping for coffee and a pastry on the way. St. George's Cathedral is a traditional Ethiopian Orthodox Church - shaped like an octagon. It's not particularly beautiful or graceful, but the Ethiopian flag flying against the blue sky from the stylized cross on top was a powerful image. There were a lot of people walking around the church (which was closed). Many of them would stop in the middle of one of the sides and lay their head against the bricks for several minutes - I assume some kind of prayer. While I was walking around the church a little girl (four or five years old) ran up to me. I steeled my self for the ubiquitous "give money" - but she just grabbed my hand, gave me a dazzling smile then ran back. I looked back to the group she was running to and there were for younger women sitting on the steps - also with huge smiles. I smiled back and continued on my way - but in a great mood now. Entry: From St. George's I walk to the Mercado area. The market itself was pretty much inactive on a Sunday, but there were lots of people around. I still had a smile on my face and almost everyone smiled back and I shook a lot of hands. On the far side of the market I cut down a dirt alley through the poorest neighborhood I've seen in Addis. There were plenty of people sitting in front of their houses or just strolling, there were kids playing in the street, and there were no other faranji. I stopped and played football in the street with some boys - much to their amusement when they figured out if they were blindfolded they'd still be better soccer players than I. I stopped and jumped rope with some girls - much to everyone's amusement. I stopped and talked with old and young men. I had a good time - and it seemed so did everyone else. Entry: After getting back to the main street I walked down Churchill and then cut over to Africa Hall (where Dawn works for the U.N.) It was starting to get dark by now so I walked up the hill to the Sheraton - I hotel I was told I must visit. The hotel is brand new and incredible. I don't think I've ever been in such a nice or elegant hotel! It was here I saw the only other white faces for the day (but not many even here). I walked around and admired the artwork, then headed to the grill for diner - a decent pizza. Entry: I left the hotel complex on foot (no way I was going to try and bargain for a taxi in front of the Sheraton!) The sun was long gone, but the sky was the most incredible violet color. I walked back down the hill to the Africa Hall and crossed the street - only to get yelled at by a bunch of soldiers with very large guns - pointed at me. Apparently you can't walk on the sidewalk next to the palace at night. I caught a taxi and with only a few false starts made it back to the house. Entry: Dawn was still in bed so I played cards with her for a while then packed and went to bed at two - and with a six am alarm...

July
5

Harar, Ethiopia
From Addis Ababa via Dire Dawa Found In: Route: Ethiopian Airline, Flight 216: Addis - Dire Dawa; Minibus: Dire Dawa - Harar Photo: Down one of the main streets of the old town, Shoa Gate, Harar, Ethiopia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Entry: It turns out I didn't quite set my alarm early enough and was very late to the airport. I got a mild scolding from the ticket agent but no problem getting on the plane. The plane is a big twin propeller job, and it's another long and bumpy flight. At the Airport in Dire Dawa I confirmed my outgoing flight on Wednesday, but for some reason they wouldn't let me confirm my connecting flight - so I'll have to get here early on Wednesday and hope there will be room for me - or it's going to be another day in Addis. With some minor fuss I hired a taxi to take me to the taxi station for Harar (minor fuss: I wanted to pay 5 birr, he wanted me to pay 20 - I paid 7). Entry: Almost immediately got on a shared taxi minibus - which miraculously left with three empty seats! The ride was about two hours long and pretty nice. The first part is up an escarpment with great views of the surrounding hills. We also passed a number of rusting tank remains - sort of weird. The only problem with the ride was that my fellow passengers wouldn't let me even crack the window (when I did someone would reach over and shut it - no matter how little I opened it), not a good thing with a fast driver and winding mountain roads. Entry: Once in Harar I settled down in a local street cafe to get rid of the touts and figure out where I wanted to stay. I ended up in a pretty nice hotel right outside Shoa Gate of the old town. My small balcony overlooks the bustle and color of a market and beyond the gate itself. I asked the hotel manager what time it was and he told me nearly five - I couldn't believe how late it had gotten so I hurriedly set out to explore the city before dark. I wandered around the market outside the city gate (mostly food and western clothing) - I bought some soap - and then headed into the city. The city is a maze of narrow alleys and steps, in some spots beautiful, others ugly - mostly charming. The biggest problem is the smells - mostly not good. There's the rotting flesh smell of leather curing in the sun, and the putrid shit smell in some places was bad enough to make me gag (unfortunately they seem to have the same habit as in Addis of going wherever they happen to be). After wandering the streets for a while I asked what time it was and was told twelve thirty (which would be Ethiopian time for 6:30) so I hurried back to the hotel. I had a fantastic Ethiopian diner (mixed - goat and beef - Wat and Injera), then noticed that it didn't seem to be getting any darker outside - in fact the sun was starting to break through the clouds. Then I realized that I had it backwards when I'd been told it was five that was in Ethiopian time (11 AM) and when I'd been told 12:30 that was Western time! I still had most of the day ahead of me. Entry: I walked back in to the old town and stopped to talk to a cobbler making shoes out of tires. He turned out to be dumb and only talked with his hands - so less than usual communications problems. I ended up ordering a pair of thongs for 5 birr ($.60) - I couldn't even bring myself to bargain. Entry: Walked around the old town again - it's amazing how quickly I've figured out how to navigate the maze - not sure how. The markets are a lot busier now and the colors are amazing. There's also a bit of a breeze so even though it's a lot hotter now the smells aren't quite so overwhelming. After I've had enough of the heat I went back to the cobbler tried on the sandals and had him finish them. They don't have a lot of support but they're comfortable and I'm thinking about getting a second pair. Entry: Spent the evening in my room reading or writting. After my huge "diner" at one o'clock I'm still not hungry. So early to bed.

July
6

Harar, Ethiopia
Found In:

Entry: Walked around the walled city some more. Explored the Eastern and Southern sections which I mostly missed yesterday. Not much new - more of the same. The old city has a weird feeling. Similar to Marakesh or Lamu, or even Zanzibar but older and less developed. There are very few multi-story buildings, and the paving stones in the roads don't seem like they've ever been repaired. There's also a bit of decadence in the air - it's all the people who seem to spend the entire day sitting against a wall chewing Chat (a mildly narcotic plant that is sold everywhere here - no I haven't tried it - yet). Entry: Also walked outside the Eastern gate and down the slope towards one of the nearby villages. The surrounding mountains are very like the hills of Southern California - round with sparse vegetation. I walked all the way around a graveyard - it was huge, it took more than an hour. The graves are all just marked with natural stones - no writing or id of any kind. Entry: In the afternoon it got too hot so I returned to the hotel and hung out drinking sodas (no bottled water available here) and reading. When it cooled off a bit I walked up to the Smuggler's market - a huge market outside the city walls. Mostly it's foods and clothing, but there were also contraband cigarettes and alcohol. I bought an alarm clock for 8 birr ($1) so that I can get up tomorrow (have to be on my way out of Harar by six). Entry: I ventured back into the city and spent the remainder of the day wandering around some more. The two market areas within the city are both more active in the late afternoon. Nothing too exciting about the markets, but the women are very brightly dressed and from a distance they look like a field of flowers. Entry: As it started to rain I returned to the hotel. After diner I sat in the lobby and tried some of the local beers (passable) while watching the lightning and rain, and the locals ignoring both as the market day winds down. Another early morning tomorrow so early to bed - at least the rain and thunder dampen the street noises.

July
7

Bahar Dar, Ethiopia
From Harar via Dire Dawa; and Addis Ababa Found In: Route: Minibus: Harar - Dire Dawa; Ethiopian Airlines Flight 337: Dire Dawa - Addis; Ethiopian Airlines Flight 142: Addis - Bahar Dar

Entry: At six o'clock I was sitting in a minibus - right on schedule. Surprisingly it only took about twenty minutes for taxi to fill and get going - even more surprising it only took an hour to get to Dire Dawa. I'd expected it to take an hour and a half to two hours and that wasn't taking in to account the flooded roads - but our driver was certifiably insane - but he got us there. At the airport I found the Ethiopian Airlines' computers were down so I couldn't confirm my next couple flights - my primary reason for getting to the airport so early. Entry: I had two flights today, one from Dire Dawa to Addis Ababa, then another one to Bahar Dar. Each flight was pretty routine except for one thing. On the first flight as we were coming in for landing I glanced down and right before the start of the runway were the combined wreckage of at least three planes - not a pretty sight as we're landing! The weird thing on the second flight also occurred right before we landed - we had to close our window shades, and any opening was immediately yelled at and the steward would come force it shut. It must have to do with the war with Eritrea. In fact we weren't allowed to open the window shades until the plane had come to a complete stop - I guess the airport could be considered a military target, and in fact next to the terminal there was a huge military helicopter - guns and all. Entry: At the airport someone offered me a free ride in to town if I'd take a look at the hotel they represented. The hotel got high marks in the guide book, but it was also in the $50-100 range so I didn't think I was staying there. However times change and the lack of tourism got me the local rate - 55 birr (~$8) for a self contained room with hot water! I spent the afternoon wandering around the town. It was pretty frustrating as it by far the worst harassment I've had yet - everyone yelling "you, you" or "farangi", either followed by "give money". I wandered around the large market, but between the mud and harassment I lost interest after less than an hour. I really felt my self loosing control over the constant barrage so I went into a cafe for a coffee. It helped, but within minutes of leaving that sanctuary I was getting tense again so I decided to head back to the hotel. Just as well because a few minutes from the hotel it started to pour rain. Spent the afternoon sitting on the veranda reading.

July
8

Bahar Dar, Ethiopia
Via Tisissat (Blue Nile) Falls Found In:

Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Partial Sun Entry: Woke up at five and decided against my early morning attempt at the falls - it was cold and threatening outside - so I went back to bed. Got up at eight and decided to catch a later bus for the falls. Got to the bus station a nine and - after waiting forty-five minutes for the bus to fill - was off. On the bus I met an Ethiopian guy named Yilma who was on vacation visiting his sister and her husband (?) - who were also on the bus. The bus ride took about an hour and was incredibly bumpy. Even before the bus started to unload there was an incredible mass of people trying to get on - it was incredibly hectic. Finally managed to get off and headed for the falls with Yilma and company. Entry: The hike to the falls wasn't too tough and the guides we hired (Yilma negotiated them) were largely unnecessary though they did keep the other would be guides away. Tisissat (Smoke of the Blue Nile) Falls are impressive. Not so high or so vast as Victoria Falls, but pretty much unvisited and in a lovely green surroundings. We hiked an additional half hour, forded a tributary, and descended a steep slippery path to the base of the falls (not to mention got soaked in the process). While we were at the bottom of the falls it started to rain - something I didn't notice until we started back due to the spray. From the top of the falls we avoided the two hour hike back by taking a ferry across the river back to town (spotting a couple large crocs on the way - making me feel great about the earlier barefoot fording). Entry: We had to wait an hour for the bus to come (tried bire - a local drink made out of water and honey). The competition for the bus was even more chaotic than when we came. Luckily Yilam paid some boys to save us seats - they climbed on the roof and went in through the windows! It took thirty minutes to get everyone on and off. I've seen some bad bus situations (Syria, Jordan, The Gambia), but this is by far the worst (most violent, chaotic, etc.) loading I've ever seen. After that exciting start the rest of the journey was unexciting. Of course this being Africa the bus broke down a couple kilometers from town, but at least the rain stopped so the walk wasn't unpleasant. Entry: Back in town went with Yilma and company to the Marine Authority. They're also planning on going to some of the monasteries tomorrow. The Marine Authority's boat costs 3 birr, where the boat I'd been offered cost 350 birr - not surprisingly though foreigners are not allowed on the cheap boat. I arrange to meet them later tonight for a beer and then head back to the hotel. Entry: While waiting for diner (I haven't had anything but water all day) I run into the guy who offered me a monastery boat yesterday (for 350 birr) and he tells me that he has a boat going tomorrow that I can get on for 100 - so at least I have a not too expensive plan for tomorrow. Meet up with Yilma and his sister's husband for a beer and then fall into bed exhausted.

July
9

Bahar Dar, Ethiopia
Via Ura Kidanemereth, Zegie Peninsula; Kebran Gabriel, Lake Tana; and Debra Kota Mariam, Dek Island, Lake Tana Found In: Stop: Ura Kidanemereth, Zegie Peninsula, Ethiopia Route: Ferry: Bahar Dar - Zegie Peninsula - Kebran Gabriel Island - Dek Island - Bahar Dar Photo: Zegie Peninsula and Islets, Lake Tana, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: 13th century frescos, Ura Kidanemereth, Zegie Peninsula, Lake Tana, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: 13th century frescos (Balaya Sab), Ura Kidanemereth, Zegie Peninsula, Lake Tana, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: 13th century frescos (Hell), Ura Kidanemereth, Zegie Peninsula, Lake Tana, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Priest with 13th century Cross, Ura Kidanemereth, Zegie Peninsula, Lake Tana, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Entry: Woke up a few minutes before nine and I was supposed to meet the tour operator at nine to make the final arrangements for a boat to the island monasteries. Rushed got out there a few minutes late and was told all was well we were just waiting for some people to arrive from the airport. An hour passed, then another hour and then the man tells me that the others have cancelled but I can do the tour for twice as much as we'd agreed. Obviously I decline and head out to see what I can arrange elsewhere in the town. I walk with some boys down to another tour operator (several kilometers away) but when I get there everything the boys have been telling me turns out to be untrue so I leave, but after being told how impossible my price is they come back with better prices so I agree. But then I'm told I have to pay fuel - and there is no way they can do it for less. At that point I get pissed of and leave and refuse to come back a third time even when they agree to my original price. Back at my hotel I let the front desk know that I'm interested in a tour if anyone else shows up. Sure enough less than an hour later I'm off to see some of the monasteries of Lake Tana with two Ethiopian women - at my price. Entry: The two women are a mother and daughter from Addis. The daughter, Meski, has been living in Canada for the last five years so speaks perfect English - luckily because the guide doesn't. A forty minute boat ride brings us to the Zegie Peninsula to see the Ura Kidanemereth monastery. Entry: Ura Kidanemereth was supposedly built in the thirteenth century. The inside is a octagonal (like most Ethiopian churches) structure with a circular top and the entire inner building is covered with brightly colored frescos (actually the paintings are on a canvas type material teat covers the structure rather than plaster). The priest tells us that the paintings haven't been redone or restored since they were painted 700 years ago - given the brightness of the colors I have a lot of difficulty believing that. The mother in our grcause of this (plus I got to see some of the ritual). After seeing the monastery we went to the museum (a mud brick hut) here we were shown the kings crown, some processional crosses and the original cover from the Ark of the Covenant - but again it looked way to new to be more than a thousand years old. Though the Ark was supposedly kept in one of the monasteries here on Lake Tana for 800 years before it was moved to its present location in Axum - though not at this Ura Kidanemereth. Then we had to drink Tella (the local homemade beer - yuck, though better than the millet beer in Mali) with the older monks. Finally we were given a blessing and a pocketful of coffee beans - don't ask me I couldn't understand the meaning. Entry: The next stop was at Kebran Gabriel Island to visit Kebran Gabriel Monastery. Women aren't allowed on the monastery's land so I went alone. The highlights here were the stone gongs (sound like metal) and the collection of nearly 200 old illuminated bibles. Kebran Gabriel Monastery is supposed to be older that the last church - and again all original but I couldn't get them to understand my question about the tin roof. The paintings inside were not nearly as well preserved (restored?) as those in Ura Kidanemereth but basically the same style. Entry: The last monastery was Debra Kota Mariam on Dek Island. Here at least the women were allowed to come in. This church was also built in the thirteenth century but it's made of stone, supposedly brought from Jerusalem. Here again the paintings weren't nearly as good as those in the first monastery and many of them were new. When the treasures were being shown off further doubt on everything's authenticity was generated when a menorah that was made of cheap riveted pot metal and couldn't have been more than 40 years old was claimed to be form the 13th century! Entry: Luckily the Zegie Peninsula was the furthest spot and we'd been working our way back to Bahar Dar - because while we were in Debra Kota Mariam it got windy and the boat ride was now very rough and wet. Back at the hotel I had diner with Meskie and her mom then went to my room to clean up and start packing. I met with Yilma and his brother and law for a beer then shared a bottle of wine (Ethiopian wine is not for the faint hearted) before calling it a night.

July
10

Lalibela, Ethiopia
From Bahar Dar Found In: Route: Ethiopian Airlines Flight 102: Bahar Dar - Gondar - Lalibela

Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Partial Sun Photo: Market and mountains, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Photo: Mountains, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Photo: People walking home from market, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Entry: Weird time morning. I woke up and looked at the alarm clock - it had stopped! Had a sudden panic about missing my plane a dug through my bag for my camera to check the time - no problem it's 6:30 I can sleep another 45 minutes. Changed the battery, set the clock, and went back to sleep. Got out of bed at the right time, finished packing, went and got my laundry (which was supposed to have been delivered last night) - had to insist I needed it right now. Then was told the shuttle I had arranged to meet was broken down. Called a taxi and still got to the airport at 8:15 - no problem the flight doesn't leave until 9:20 or does it? Everyone is in a panic about me and I get rushed though and run out on the runway where the plane has already taxied to the runway. Both the engines (propellers) are running and I have to duck around (a bit scary) and they open the door and I get on. Less than ten minutes after me getting out of the taxi we're in the air! Now I'm confused, I check my tickets and the confirmation slip from Wednesday - both say the flight leaves at 9:20. Oh, oh, must have set the clock wrong then, but no when I ask someone else the time it's right. They left an hour early! Entry: Not much of a surprise, but Dawn is not on the plane (it's come from Addis). Hopefully she missed her flight and she's not still sick. I asked after arriving in Lalibela and another passenger told me that the flight left Addis at least thirty minutes early. In Lalibela I checked into the hotel where we were going to meet if anything went wrong - it's government run and way over price, but I was able to negotiate a bit of a discount. I tried to call Dawn but her landlord told me that she was gone until tomorrow night - I think, they don't speak much English. Entry: I would have thought it impossible, but walking around Lalibela is even more frustrating than Bahar Dar! The children are way to tenacious, the young men are worse, and the beggars prolific. The would be guides don't listen to "No" they just follow you around and start guiding. I had to stop and sit down a couple times and refuse to move until my guide left (much to the amusement of local children). Several other times I picked up rocks and threatened, and once I lost it and cussed out a guy - not relaxing. Finally made it down to the big Saturday market. Once there it wasn't too bad - this is a once weekly working market and people don't have time for tourists. Entry: At one point I'm looking at some glass and silver beads an old woman is selling and when I go to ask the price instantly one of the boys I chased off earlier is there and it's his mother - right. He translates and the price is at least three times what she is really asking, but when I try to "talk" to her (offer her cash what I'm willing to pay) he grabs the beads and jabbers at her and yells at me. I walk away and she doesn't make a sale. Entry: Lalibela is in a spectacular setting - the mountains raise up in every direction and fade into the distance in layers. It's really too bad that the hassles ruin what should be relaxing. I talk to one of the more polite guides and he invites me to his house to look at the crosses his mother buys in the country and sells cheap. At the house I'm offered Tella and coffee and some boys are sent to fetch the crosses. The boys turn out to be two of the worst offenders in harassing me earlier. The crosses are nothing spectacular and we can't come to an agreement on the price so I head back to the hotel. Entry: I stop in a general store and while looking at some of the crosses one of the boys brings back the crosses - so much for them being mom's. I find the stores hardly willing to bargain - it's amazing to me that you can buy Ethiopian crosses and paraphernalia cheaper in Zimbabwe, Kenya, and probably the U.S. than you can in Ethiopia! I ask about a few items and end up buying some indigo blue glass beads, two small crosses and one large cross for 150 birr ($19), starting "discounted" price was 400! On reflection I'm really not that happy with the price I paid - I think I could have gotten it cheaper in any of the neighboring countries and maybe even at home. Entry: I go for a walk towards some of the mountains. I stop on the edge of town and just stare and the view - it's truly awesome. On the way back I stop in one last small store and ask about some of the wooden icons they have - I'd seen some that I really liked in Harare (and should have bought given the prices here). In the 100 yard walk back to the hotel a man stops me and says he's heard that I'm interested in icons and he has one, so I agree to look at it. He takes me and opens his shop. He's got the best selection I've seen yet and his starting price on an icon that I sort of like is only 100 birr - about a fourth of what the other places have been asking. We negotiate, I pretend to leave a few times and I buy it for 25 (~$3). I start looking around and talking to Eshetu and by the time I leave I've bought 20 different silver Ethiopian Orthodox crosses (8 birr / $1 each) and two big crosses (65 birr / $8) - way more than I'd meant to buy. I do feel like I got a good deal and I think with the scarcity of tourists he was glad to make the sale. Entry: The big problem now is that I have less than $15 worth of birr left - and there is no bank in town. Luckily my hotel is willing to cash a travelers check (the advantages of paying to much for a room) - so I'll be able to go see the churches after all. I spend some time working on my journal (I a couple days behind) and watching the spectacular thunder storm that rolls in suddenly and then half hour later disappears as quickly. I tried to call Dawn in Addis again, but couldn't make any headway with her landlord - who eventually hung up on me.

July
11

Lalibela, Ethiopia
Via Asheton Maria Monastery, Outside Lalibela Found In:

Weather: Rain / Overcast / Rain Photo: Mountains, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Social group in village, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Mountain village, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Lalibela and mountains, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Mountain village in mist, Asheton Maria trail, Outside Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Old man and mountain, Asheton Maria Monastery, Outside Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Mountain hut, Asheton Maria Monastery, Outside Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Window, Inside Bet Medhane Alem Church, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-286 Photo: Window detail, Bet Medhane Alem Church, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 731-442 Photo: Window, Beta Georgis, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 731-442 Photo: Priest walking in passage, Beta Georgis, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 731-442 Entry: It stormed all night last night, the works - thunder lightning and driving rain. This morning when I woke up I could here the birds singing and the light coming from around the curtains was bright - what a perfect day to hike up to the mountain monastery! Alas, when I pulled the curtains aside it was white. Some of the densest fog I've ever seen - and still drizzling as well. I walked out to meet my guide (Jimmy) and tell him that there was no way I was doing the four hour very steep and slippery (from the guide book - talking about dry season!) hike in these conditions. He agreed to meet me later to go look at the churches (Lalibela's real claim to fame) - hopefully the weather will break by then. Also if Dawn does show up on the plane today (seems very doubtful since she's supposed to work tomorrow) she should be here by then and be able to join us. Entry: Had a leisurely breakfast then set out to track down the guys I bought things from yesterday. If I can get receipts I can go to the museum in Addis and easily get legitimate export documents - then I can avoid the hassle of trying to smuggle the stuff out (the guide book claims travelers have been arrested before). No problem getting the receipts and I even got to sit down and had a cup of tea with Eshetu and his brothers. Back at the hotel I decided to do some pushups since I decided to skip the hike up to the monastery. Unfortunately it wasn't until after I was done that I discovered the water was off. Entry: Met Jimmy at eleven - still no sign of the airport shuttle. Hiked up a hill next to town to check out the view and waste time. Around noon the shuttle finally showed up. Not only didn't Dawn come, but no other tourists either. Now I have the honor of being not only the only farangi (white person) in town, but also the only tourist in town. Entry: Since the churches close in the middle of the day until two I decided to do the hike up to Asheton Mariam Monastery after all. Of course just a few minutes into the hike it starts to rain - luckily it only lasted fifteen minutes. The hike is incredible steep, and muddy, and slippery, and stunning. I can't decide if it would be better on a clear day. The views would certainly be better, but the mists are cooler and add a certain mystery to the trek. About forty minutes of hiking brings us to a lush plateau with a couple small villages. Here we pick up an entourage of village children - all wearing silly wool hats. Of course I end up buying one - which led to some great photo ops. Entry: After twenty minutes of relatively flat, if gushy, travel it gets steep again. This time it's even steeper and more muddy. The children (who are bare foot and literally running circles around me) are quite amused every time I slip - though I never fell down. Another forty minutes brings us to the monastery itself. The priest can't be found to open the door so we climb the last thirty feet or so to the top of the mountain to wait. This brings us to over ten thousand feet of altitude - which means we've just climbed two. The clouds drop down a bit and suddenly we're above them and there's even a bit of sun! The views are spectacular and the well deserved rest even more so. Entry: After about thirty minutes of relaxing the priest shows up to let us in to the monastery. Actually I was pretty disappointed it's not much, just a rough room dug out of the rock. There are the usual treasures (crosses, King Lalibela's bible, etc.) but it's definitely the location that makes this visit worthwhile. The hike down is pretty uneventful and takes just under an hour (no rest stops!) I'm exhausted by the time we get to the bottom so I arrange a twenty minute break so I can use the toilet and get something to drink. This also gave me a chance to discover that the water is still off so I complained. Entry: Now it's time to go see the churches! Visit the Eastern group first. This is a series of six churches in three courtyards linked by a series of tunnels. The courtyards are dug into the relatively flat rock, leaving the churches - so the entire complex is carved out of a single piece of rock! It's impressive, and it would be stunningly beautiful, except the churches are surrounded by scaffolding and covered with tin roofs as they're going through some restoration. Entry: The first and largest of the churches is Bet Medhane Alem it's thirty five feet high and covers more than 8,500 square feet! It's also got 36 free standing columns on the outside and another 36 inside - still carved out of the same piece of rock. All the churches are impressive, but we can only go into a few others (Bet Danaghel and Bet Meskel) as the priests are disappearing for the night. Entry: Next stop is the most famous of Lalibela's churches, Beta Georgis (St. George's). It stands by itself at another site. It's in the shape of a cross and very dramatic looking as you approach it (it too is carved down into the rock so you approach it level with the roof). The craftsmanship is amazing and as a bonus it's unencumbered with scaffolding! The interior is messed up with strung wires, but I guess that's part of the cost of it being a live church. Entry: It's too late to see the other churches so I arrange to meet Jimmy at six tomorrow morning. I don't need to leave for the airport until after eight so that will give me a couple hours to visit the Western group of churches (four more) and revisit the ones I did see. The advantage is that there is a celebration of some kind early tomorrow morning so I'll get the full show. Plus being as tired as I am I'll definitely be in bed early! Entry: To me the most impressive thing about these 800+ year old churches is that they're not recently discovered ruins - they've been in continuous use as churches since they were built! Entry: Luckily the water was back on and I had one of the best showers ever before heading to diner. After diner it was working on the journal, packing, and in bed well before nine.

July
12

Gondar, Ethiopia
From Lalibela Found In: Route: Ethiopian Airlines Flight 102: Lalibela - Gondar

Weather: Rain Photo: Villagers in mist, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 731-442 Photo: Looking down on Bet Emanuel, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Looking down on Bet Emanuel, Lalibela, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Random ruins, Royal Enclosure, Gondar, Ethiopia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Entry: Up before dawn to finnish seeing the churches. Met Jimmy at six and headed back to the Eastern churches. Went in to Bet Maryam where services were going on. It was pretty magical, a thick mist cold outside, the warm fragrent haze of the incence inside, and the chanting of the priest echoing through the rocks. Jimmy said I could take photos, but I didn't feel comfortable and felt pretty intusive just being there. Entry: Went over to the Western group. We started with Bet Gebriel-Rufael where there was a service going on. They woldn't let Jimmy in because they suspected he'd been eating (it's a fasting day) - he made a big comotion and they agreed to let me in, then he wanted to interupt their service so that the priest could show me the church's cross and bible (each church has one) - I drew the line there and insisted I was ok just standing in the back of the church. Jimmy's behavior was starting to bother me - these are churches and I don't think it's right for me to interupt anyone's service - it's easy to see why there are often hostle feelings towards tourists - I don't want to contribute to that. Entry: We took a long (pitch black) passage - with the odd bat shooting byinches from my face - to Bet Abba Libanos (I think). There was a service going on here as well, but I was able to duck in the back for a few minutes without interupting anyone. Entry: Finally the huge Bet Emanuel - three stories, nearly forty feet tall. Prayer had just begun so I couldn't go in, but an obliging priest brought out the cross and bible for me to see. By this time my two hours of free time was over and I needed to hurry back to the hotel for a quick shower. Entry: The ride to the airport was by four wheel drive so we could take the more direct route. Very scenic through a number of villages, but also very rough (I thought we were stuck a number of times, but the driver always got us out). At the airport I was the only passenger an obviously the guard was bored. He searched every piece of clothing, books, film canisters, etc. in my luggage messing up everything and actually breaking more than half the zippers (3 of 6, fixable - but still very annoying). He also asked questions about everything and wanted it demonstrated (why do you have two cameras? Take photos? What's this -telephoto lens, GPS, lens cleaner, corkscrew). Frustration level raised very high. The flight itself was short, smooth, and not very scenic since it was all in dense clouds. Entry: In Gondar immeadiately caught a shared taxi into town. Checked into a hotel, and by noon I was on my way to the Royal Enclosure to see Gondar's castles. Unfortunately the castles are closed from twelve to two. Spent an hour walking around. In a lot of ways the city has a very European feel - it's probably mostly the castles, but the city center are could be in Spain, Portugal, Italy, France, etcetera. After an hour I'd had it, between the slimy mud, even slimier children, the rain, and the rather urgent need of a toilet I headed back to the hotel. Spent an hour hanging out at the hotel then headed back out. Entry: The Royal Enclosure was beautiful. Honestly I was a little disapointed though. The castles realy do come off as being rather "typical" - the ruins would be right at home in England, Scottland, ireland, Portugl, Spain, Italy, Romania - almost anywhere in Europe. Their one truely surprising feature is that they're in Africa. There's supposed to be a guide included in the price of admissions but I'm pretty sure they did their best to avoid me. I'd see a group huddling in some ruins and head towards them, as soon as they saw me they'd be gone - not sure if it was the rain or their always this lazy. Entry: Climbed any surviving stairs, explored (mostly roofless) passages and rooms, and wandered the courtyards and gardens of Fasil's Archive (1632), Fasil's Castle (16??), Iyasu's Castle (1682), Dawit's Debal Castle (1716), Beloafa's Castle (1721) and the many random ruins. I spent forty minutes walking around the enclosure. If it'd been a nice day I could have wandered around another hour, if it'd been raining harder or it was too hot I could have done it in 20 minutes. There really isn't all that much to see, especially since Fasil's Castle (the biggest and best preserved of the castles) is closed for restoration work. Entry: I'd decided to try to head back to Addis a day earlier (tomorrow)instead of hanging out here another day - two reasons: 1 - to hang out with Dawn (I still don't know what happened to her); 2 - I forgot to confirm my flight out of Addis and would rather do it sooner than later. I had to wait until 4:30 to see if there would be space available on tomorrow's flight - it was just after three. I wasted an hour searching for bottled water - an unsucesful mission. Then I spent a half hour sitting in a couple different cafes. No problem catching a flight tomorrow mornign - just be at the airport at eight. Entry: Back at the hotel I tried to call Dawn, but the connection was so bad I couldn't hold the phone near my ear (no exageration a very loud high pitched feedback noise) so I gave up - I'll try again after dark. Worked on my journal until diner.

July
13

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
From Gondar Found In: Route: Ethiopian Airlines Flight 123: Gondar - Lalibela - Bahar Dar - Addis Ababa

Weather: Rain Entry: I hate the bureaucracy involved with this part of the world. Had to get to the airport two hours early to have time for it. Wait in line at the gate to have passport and ticket examined. The sit around and wait. Then wait in line to check in and have baggage weighed; another line to pay airport tax; another line to have baggage inspected; and another line to have the airport tax stamp cancelled. Then sit around and wait some more. Then line up to have the carry on bags inspected and another line to be frisked (no x-ray machines or metal detectors here). Then sit and wait some more. Then line up to have the boarding card taken and walk out to the plane. Then line up to get on the plane and have the boarding card stub checked. At each spot no one anticipates - each and every person in line is going to have to look for their ticket and ID, then again for the boarding pass, then again for the stub two minutes later. Every single person in line has to do it, why can't the people look ahead and thing "oh, I need to get out my ticket" - but no they look shocked that the check-in person would want their ticket. Ok, done venting. Entry: The flight was too long, and parts were very rough. at the Addis airport I tried to call Dawn but the zero button on the only payphone was broken and her work number has two zeros in it. Fought with the taxi drivers a while before I found one that would take me into town for a reasonable amount. Dropped my bags off at the house and headed downtown. At the U.N. the guard couldn't get hold of Dawn - then I realized it was right in the middle of lunch. So I sat down and had a cup of coffee and a soda then tried again - still no luck. I went and found a public phone and the number for Egypt Air and confirmed my flights to Cairo and Casablanca. Finally Dawn was in. Entry: Spent the afternoon hanging out in Dawn's office - checked email and just hung out. Dawn's been very sick - spent several days in the U.N.'s clinic - but no one can tell her what it is. At least that's the excuse she gave for not showing up last Saturday... Entry: Went out to diner with Kate (one of Dawn's bosses) and Stewart (a friend of hers from NY that she randomly ran into in Addis) at a excellent European restaurant. We'd been at the Hilton bar (where Kate lives and Stewart is staying) first - so the conversation was well animated and excellent.

July
14

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Found In:

Entry: Got up early and went to the U.N. with Dawn. I left my Ethiopian Objects d'Art there and headed off to see the Mer&cced;ato. Decided to stop for a quick breakfast and a cafe and then got side tracked into an Internet place. The internet wanted 30 birr a minute - about $225 / hour - obviously they weren't really interested in having people use the net! I went up to the Sheraton and checked their business center. Even there it was 27.5 birr for each five minutes (> $40 / hr). I sat down for about forty minutes and got a nearly %50 discount just for asking. Entry: On the way to the Mer&cced;ato I decided to stop at Tekle Haimanot Church as I had heard that was the place to find lots of farmers selling traditional goods bought in the country at very reasonable prices. I didn't find any such people but I did find a couple large stores with manager who would at least talk about prices. Spent nearly an hour in one negotiating for five icons but finally walked away when we stalled over 50 birr. By this time it was nearly time to meet Dawn for lunch so I headed back to the U.N. Entry: My original plan had been to go to the Mer&cced;ato in the morning then the National Museum for an export certificate in the afternoon. Well I hadn't made it to the Mer&cced;ato so I decided to put off getting the export certificate until tomorrow - in case I buy anything at the market. Headed off to the Mer&cced;ato again, but took shelter in a cafe when it started to pour rain. Spent the afternoon in the cafe until it was time to go meet Dawn at the Hilton for pizza. Entry: Ran into Stewart again while waiting for Dawn. When Dawn showed up the three of us sat in the bar forever talking, then moved to the restaurant for diner and more conversation. Once again we were the last people out of the restaurant - it was another good diner.

July
15

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Found In:

Entry: Slept in this morning. Met Dawn at the U.N. and hung out there until lunch time. Had lunch with Dawn, Jeanine, and Sonia (Dawn's roommates) then headed out for the Mer&cced;ato. I finally made it to "Africa's largest outdoor market". Unfortunately I wasn't all that impressed. I'm not sure why it's considered an outdoor market and not a shopping district, it's just regular paved city streets lined with small shops. It is a big district with separate sections for cloth, shoes, spice, baskets, tools, etc. There is also a souvenirs section right next to the taxi stand, but it was expensive and not very good quality. Near the back of the district there are two huge buildings full of stands - more like the typical African city market. Here I found some traditional icons that I liked and people who were willing to bargain. I ended up buying five wooden and one stone icons. Entry: It was getting late so I rushed back to the U.N. picked up the other things I've bought in Ethiopia, and headed to the Department of Antiquities to get an export certificate so I can take the things out of the country. I got to the National Museum (where the department is) at five haveing read that they're open until 5:30 - wrong they closed at 4:30 and don't open until 8:30 tomorrow, and I have to be at the airport at eight. I turned on the charm and they agreed to look at the things. It was surprising, two people carefully expected each item and itemized it on a list (counting the small crosses there were over 30!). Then everything had to be wrapped up in paper and tape (which could be bought at the museum cafe), then the resulting package was stamped all over, along each edge and piece of tape. Far more complicated than I expected! Entry: Took a quick detour back to the house (to drop off my "antiquities", change clothes, and put a bottle of Amarula in the fridge). Met up with Dawn, Jeanine and Sonia and headed out to diner with a huge group of people (mostly U.N. people). After diner headed to a bar and had a drink. Back at the house (already fairly late) the four of us opened the bottle of Amarula. Dawn and I ended up staying up talking until five - so much for a good nights sleep before getting to Egypt...

July
16

Cairo, Egypt
From Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Found In: Entry: Predictable morning came way to early. Caught a taxi with Dawn to the airport said goodbye to Dawn (she was on her way to work). It was sad to say goodbye after hanging out with friends. The airport was horrible. The plane was two and a half hours late. Even after x-raying the carry ons and walking through metal detectors - twice - the searched each bag and frisked everyone at the bottom of the jet way. Entry: At least the flight was not very full so there was plenty of room. Once we got beyond the clouds over Ethiopia the views of the Sahara were stunning. The shades of red were incredible in some places. The desert is so big and featureless that it's very difficult to conceive of it as anything but an ocean. Entry: It was so hot. Stepping out of the airplane was like getting physically hit - it was 104°F (40°C). Coming through immigration they inspected everyone's yellow cards (immunization records) and then gave every passenger a blister pack of eight green capsules - with no explanation of what it is or what it does! Tried to get money at the airport, but both ATMs were out of service so I ended up changing some of my last US currency. Re-confirmed tomorrows flight and found out that the flight has been moved back an hour - looks like I'm going to have to spend the night in Casablanca instead of taking the train up to Rabat. Negotiated a taxi to the Sun Hotel (where I stayed last year when I was here) - but the Sun was full. The driver took me to a nearby hotel that's nicer, and - after a bit of bargaining - the same price as the Sun. Entry: Went to the nearby Hilton to get some cash - the ATM there dispenses both Pounds Egyptian and US Dollars - so I got both. It was to late to go to the Egyptian Museum - maybe tomorrow. Went to Mc Donald's (of course - and it was as good as expected). Used a computer at the InterContinental's business center, then waited for hours for the use of an internet terminal at the Hilton Mall. In bed shortly after midnight.

July
17

Casablanca, Morocco
From Cairo, Egypt Found In: Route: Egypt Air Flight 847: Cairo - Casablanca Airport; Train: Airport - Casa Port Entry: Spent the morning doing laundry. I decided the hot temperature here would dry things in an hour or two - fifteen minutes was all it took. Spent the afternoon wandering around trying to get a student ID card. Finally found a place that could do it on a Saturday but it would take half an hour - which is when I was supposed to head towards the airport. Entry: Went back to the hotel, quickly took a shower and packed, then met Mustafa (my taxi driver from yesterday). By the time I finished packing and we got off I was already running fifteen minutes late. By the time we battled Cairo's traffic and made it to the travel agent that was making my card I was half an hour late. The card still wasn't there, and they kept telling me to wait five minutes. Finally when I was demanding the money back the guy showed up with it - an hour later than it was promised to me - and half an hour after I was supposed to have checked in. Mustafa drove like crazy - even more so than usual for Cairo, and I got to the airport a little over an hour (instead of two hours) before the flight was scheduled to leave - only to find out the flight had been delayed an hour... Entry: The boarding procedure was certainly a relief after the last few flights - didn't even have to open my bags once. The flight was unexciting and comfortable I even got an emergency row seat. I'm pretty sure this is the first flight I've been on since leaving the middle east over a year ago that alows smoking. The delay meant that I was going to be staying in Casa - I'd been planing on going up to Rabat tonight. Entry: Passed through customs quickly and easily. It was a few minutes past nine and there was a train into Casa scheduled for 9:30 so I bought a ticket and sat down to wait (with a Solero bar and a Coke). On the train I realized that don't think I've been on a train since leaving Morocco eleven months ago - very strange considering it was my prefered mode of transportation for so long. From the central train station (Casa Port) I caught a taxi to the same hotel I stayed in last time I was here. On the drive, then again walking around near the hotel I was reminded how good it feels just to return someplace you're familiar with. Checked in, and went for a walk to get something to eat.

July
18

Chefchaouen, Morocco
From Casablanca Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: No problem catching the bus. I'd forgotten how nice the CTM busses are. It was a long trip - seven hours (LP said it's 5.5). In Chefchauen there were only two taxies and they both got grabbed before I had a chance - no problem I've been here before, I know the way. Unfortunately I'd forgotten about the hill - and it's warmer than it was when I was here before. By the time I got to the square it was four o'clock and I was absolutely drenched. In the square Lindsay, one of Amy's friends who I'd met last summer in Essaouira, recognized me and showed me where Amy's house was. Entry: It was great seeing Amy and we spent the afternoon / evening hanging out and catching up. Went out for diner to Aladdin and I had an excellent Pastela. Back at the house we Amy, Ted, Lindsay, and I broke out my last bottle of Amarula.

July
19

Chefchaouen, Morocco
Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: Quiet day, hung out with Amy at the house, then at a cafe. It's market day, so we wandered around Chefchauen's souk. Went into the medina and had sandwiches for lunch. Back at the house did some (more) repair work on my pack cover. Diner was at Aladin's again, and good again.

July
20

Chefchaouen, Morocco
Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: I left Amy to get some work done and went ot the internet cafe. Afterwards we were going to go on a hike but it was so hot we postponed it til tomorrow. Spent the evening shopping at the souk (not a market day so much smaller - and quieter). Made a fantastic diner of fresh tortillas, salsa, goat cheese, and veggies.

July
21

Chefchaouen, Morocco
Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Photo: Medina at dusk, Outside Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Medina at dusk, Mosque Ruins, Outside Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Amy, Mosque Ruins, Outside Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Entry: Left Amy to get some work done (apparently Peace Corps didn't put her here to be my tour guide?!) I decided to be completely decadent and went on a quest for a shave. Finally found a barber who wasn't busy and didn't try to rip me off - 20 minutes later if not clean cut at least I'm clean shaven. Entry: Spent some time wandering around the Ville Nouvelle and the Medina (ok, I got lost). Checked email again and then met up with Amy. Entry: Hiked to ruins of a mosque on a hill east of town. The views down on the medina, the surrounding mountains, and the sunset - excellent. The Mosque doesn't appear to be that old, though only the minaret is still substantially there - and the view from the top is incredible. Back in the medina we stopped at the Parador hotel for a couple very expensive beers - pricey, but oh so delicious. We were going to make more tortillas and finish off the salsa in burritos, but our quest for beans failed. Still managed a delicious dinner - a repeat of last night's with the addition of Moroccan salad which Amy made.

July
22

Chefchaouen, Morocco
Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: Amy went in to work to at least check in - Ted is still not back from Tangier and she is out of things to do on her own. I wandered around the Kasbah area in the medina for a bit then met Amy in a cafe on the plaza. Entry: We spent the afternoon hanging out at the public pool. It was a bit strange as Amy was the only woman, but it was a very hot day and the water was very cold. Stopped on the way back to the house for ice cream - not the best, but cold and at one dirham a bargain! Back at the house we discovered that Ted is back. Made pasta with a collaborate sauce for diner - interesting and delicious.

July
23

Ceuta, Spanish Morocco
From Chefchaouen, Morocco Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Entry: I had considered trying for a seven AM bus, but by the time I got out of bed, packed, had breakfast with Amy and Ted and walked to the bus it was 11:30. While packing I decided to go for a minimalist approach and left almost everything, taking only a small duffel with a couple changes of clothes, my sleeping bag, and toilet kit - didn't even bring my boots. Entry: My plan was to head for Larache, via Ouazzane if necessary, then tomorrow or the next day head to Tangier or Tetouan before returning back to Chefchaouen from the North. Unfortunately, not only is there no direct bus to Larache, but the only way to get there by bus is via Tangier. Since I wanted to go south and come back through Tangier I decided to change plans. I thought about Rabat, but there were no more busses today. Finally decided to go to Tetouan and then Ceuta. There was a CTM bus to Tetouan leaving in ten minutes, but I couldn't find the man to sell me a ticket. Finally gave up and went out to the bus - just in time to watch it leave - five min early! So I decided to start with Ceuta, since there was a bus leaving for the border in 30 minutes. Entry: Had to walk the last two and a half miles to the actual border. Could have taken a taxi, but the Mediterranean was so beautiful and the weather so nice (i.e. cool after Chefchaouen) that I chose to walk. At the border I waited in line for over two hours to get through the Moroccan formalities - incredible because there were only four people in front of me. Luckily the Spanish formalities were trivial. Entry: On the Ceuta side walked another half mile or so to the city proper. The view of the island and the beach made for a fantastic walk. There's a large castle on the far end of the island, a beautiful fort on the near side, and a colorful cathedral. Ceuta is just barely an island. The moat-like channel that makes it so is maybe twenty feet wide. Once on the island and thus in the city proper the quest for a room began. Every hotel and Pension was full, demanded a three (or in one case two) night minimum, or demanded an outrageous price ($30 for a dirty, smelly, dark, and windowless room). I went through all but the most expensive hotel in the Lonely Planet's Morocco guide (and any others I happened upon) before finding a room. Still over $35, but at least it's nice and I have hot water. If this hotel hadn't had space available I was planing on turning back for Tetouan. Entry: By this time I've been walking for almost six hours - with the two hour time change it's now ten o'clock. When I finally put down my small duffel - which has been hanging across my left shoulder the entire time - a muscle behind the abused shoulder knotted. A hot shower brought the pain to a tolerable level, but now I can hardly stand on my left foot - no idea what I did to it. I limped out of the hotel to Mc Donald's for diner (with a McBeer!) then back to the room just after midnight. Entry: The city feels a lot like some of the European Mediterranean towns - Nice comes to mind. It also definitely feels like Spain (also reminiscent of San Sebastian), and it was with some shock that I remembered I was still in Africa. It seems like there is a lot of beauty here with the history and the beaches - still, can't say I'm all that impressed with Ceuta. I was going to stay another night, but between my lack luster opinion, and this hotel being completely booked tomorrow I've decided to head back into Morocco and check out Tetouan.

July
24

Tetouan, Morocco
From Ceuta, Spanish Morocco Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: Woke up with my shoulder sore but nothing like last night. My foot had swollen considerably but was walkable. Spent the day wandering around Ceuta. It's pleasant enough - very cosmopolitan and definitely European - African only as a technicality. I spent some time shopping - the prices of this duty free haven were not very impressive (one exception - I found a GSM phone that seemed way to cheap - I bought it). I hung out on the beach for a while, but I stupidly left my suit and towel in the luggage I checked at the hotel when I checked out. Entry: Around 4:30 I collected my bag and caught a city bus to the border (no walking today!) The border was strangely subdued - I found out that yesterday King Hassan II died. It only took a little over an hour to get through the Moroccan border formalities, but today they were on the other side of the building - in the sun, with no shade - pure hell. Once in Morocco I waited at the grand taxi stand for a bit before getting fed up with the drivers (trying to talk me into hiring a taxi to myself - and blatantly lying to me regarding the availability of busses). Decided to walk into the nearby village (3 km) to check out the bus schedule, but maybe ten minutes into the walk I was able to flag down a grand taxi with room for me. An hour later I was in Tetouan. Entry: I quickly found my hotel and started wandering. Just outside the medina in the main square (Place Hassan II), in front of the Royal Palace was a huge demonstration of some kind. It was pretty amazing - many thousands of people chanting and singing. At first I thought it was religious but then realized it was some kind of mourning for the king. Shortly after I started watching the entire mob headed down Calle Mohamad V (I didn't know it at the time, but the demonstration was going to march up and down the length of the cities main street all night). I decided to go into the medina. The winding streets were quiet - a very strange state for a Moroccan medina. I'm not sure if it was that, the subtly Spanish architecture (wrought iron balconies off the second floors), the freshly whitewashed walls, or the well maintained and clean flagstones, but the medina is refreshingly different from the others I've been in. Most of the shops were closed - I'm not sure if in mourning, or just because it's Saturday. I set off to get lost and it only took me minutes to accomplish this. There are some amazing tiled doorways and courtyards here. It took me two hours to find my way back (finally walked straight until I found one of the city walls then followed it back to where I started - the long way around it turned out). Entry: Found a small sandwich place on Place al-Jala for diner and sat upstairs to eat. My timing was perfect as the mourning procession was coming back up the street still chanting and singing - it took more than a half hour for all of them to pass through the small square I was looking down on. I wish I had taken a photo, but it didn't even occur to me. Entry: After my long walk of discovery my foot was really starting to bug again so I returned to my hotel. I spent until midnight getting caught up on emails and my journal.

July
25

Chefchaouen, Morocco
From Tetouan Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Photo: Medina, Tetouan, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Photo: Ville Novelle with mountains, Tetouan, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Entry: The plan was to spend the day wandering around Tetouan's medina then catch the evening bus back to Chaouen. What I saw yesterday of the medina was interesting, but I wanted to see it with some life. Unfortunately it's still closed! Actually almost everything in the entire city is shut down today for the king's funeral. Entry: I quickly became bored, and went back to the bus station to see if I could get an earlier bus - no chance. There are no busses this afternoon, and there was even talk that the 7 o'clock bus wouldn't run. Basically I should have taken the 11:30 AM bus when I could. There were several other stranded travelers and I ended up hanging out with an American guy, a Kiwi guy, and an English woman. We ended up spending most of the afternoon sitting on the porch or some government building next to the Royal Palace playing cards. With the constant stream of mourning processions and impromptu rallies through the square it was rather surreal. Entry: Finally at six a few of the cafes opened so we could at least get some food. Then caught the seven o'clock bus which, thankfully, did run. In Chaouen there were tons of people on the street - it all seemed rather festive except for the somber atmosphere. Amy and Ted weren't home, so I left a note and settled down at a cafe. At ten they still weren't home. I was starting to panic and trying to decided what I should do, when I ran in to Amy and Lindsay (she's back) walking down the street. Weird - they (Lindsay, Ted, and Amy) had all been in Tetouan that afternoon as well. They were at the bus station a mere half hour after I gave up and had been wandering around the medina the same time I was. They'd managed to get an unscheduled bus back around four.

July
26

Chefchaouen, Morocco
Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Photo: Public fountain, Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Photo: A Medina door, Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Photo: A Medina door, Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Photo: Girls at fountain, Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Photo: Alley with mosque ruins in the background, Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Photo: Amy and Lindsay, Chefchaouen, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-332 Entry: Ted and Amy went to the pool, but I opted to spend the afternoon in the medina. I wandered around, got a shave (again - oh the decadence), and had a few glasses of tea - basically a lazy afternoon. Entry: Met up with Amy and Lindsay and spent the evening walking around the backstreets of the medina. Took a lot of pictures - mostly of doors. Had a few beers at the Paradoor. It was a beautiful day, much cooler, strange cloud formations and crystal clear alpine air - and the evening was just as beautiful. A perfect time to sit on the deck at the Paradoor and have a few beers.

July
27

Chefchaouen, Morocco
Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: Amy, Ted, and I had breakfast at the corner cafe. Hung out for a while reading then left Amy and Ted and went to the souq. Bought vegetables and herbs for tonight's dinner. Back at the house made salsa then went off with Ted and Amy for lunch and then to the internet cafe. Entry: Ted and Amy split to the youth center to actually do some work. I spent the evening wandering around the medina trying to buy a blanket. No one wanted to come anywhere near what I wanted to pay so I ended up with nothing. Entry: Met Amy and Ted back at the house and we went out for a beer at the Paradoor. Lindsay came over for diner and Amy and I made tortillas and saut�ed onions and green peppers to go with the salsa I made earlier. Diner was a lot of fun though it was pretty close to midnight by the time we finished.

July
28

Chefchaouen, Morocco
Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: Amy and Ted headed for the Dar Chebab (youth center) to do some work. I worked on my journal a bit then went out for a pastry and tea. Amy and I hung out and had a fantastic lunch. Then I walked back to the Dar Chebab with Amy to see the Map her and Ted painted. I've seen a couple Peace Corps world maps and theirs is so much better... Entry: I checked email then met up with Amy to go shopping in the medina. We wandered around a bit, but I just wasn't in the mood and couldn't be bothered to look at anything so we ended up sitting in a cafe on the square. Walked back to the house and had omelet sandwiches with the leftover salsa and goat cheese.

July
29

Chefchaouen, Morocco
Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: Spent the morning reading, writing email, and working on my journal. Shortly after noon I met Ted and Amy at the pool. It was a very hot day and the cold water was great, but it was just to hot so I left the others after a couple hours. Hiked down to the bus station to check on departure times as we're hoping to leave tomorrow. Entry: Spent the rest of the afternoon at the internet cafe. I added a random picture to my front page. It's the first time I've done any coding in quite a while (since Southern Africa?) - it was only a small Perl script, but it was fun. Spent an even longer amount of time going through old photos picking out ones to be selected from. Entry: Lindsay, Ted, Amy, and I had a big end of summer (for Ted and Amy), leaving Africa (for me) blow out planed at the Paradoor. I met up with Amy at the house (Ted and Lindsay had already left) and after a quick bucket bath headed through the medina. Less than half way to the Paradoor we ran into Ted and Lindsay coming back. There is to be no alcohol sold in Morocco for the next forty days as part of the mourning for the king! Apparently the order just got through today - hence why we hadn't had any problems ordering beers the last week. Only in Africa... Entry: Amy and I went to check the bar in the new town - same. We hung out in the square for a while then I treated the others to dinner as thanks for their hospitality.

July
30

Tangier, Morocco
From Chefchaouen Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Entry: Went back to the Dar Chebab where Ted and Amy were finishing up their world map to take a picture for them. Entry: In the afternoon Amy and I caught a bus for Tangiers. Checked in to a mediocre hotel that had been highly recommended by the Lonely Planet. Wandered around Tangiers at night and had Pizza for diner. Entry: [Original Entry Lost. Reconstructed from notes 5/3/2000] Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

July
31

Algeciras, Spain
From Tangier, Morocco via Algeciras; and Gibraltar, England Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Stop: Algeciras, Spain End Location: Algeciras, Spain Lodging: Madrid Train Photo: The rock, Gibraltar, United Kingdom, England
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Entry: Headed down to the ferry. I changed my remaining currency into pasetas and got ripped off about ten percent. After buying our tickets Amy got stopped by the immigration officer. Since she's a resident of Morocco she's supposed to get a return visa before she leaves the country. She tried to get the visa, but the police were too slow and last time she went to Spain she didn't have any trouble. With minutes to go we got escorted onto the ferry - on the car deck since everything else had already been closed. Immigration kept Amy's residency card so she'll have to reapply when she returns, but at least we made it. Entry: Watching Tangiers move away was a bittersweet moment as I realized that I was finally leaving Africa - nearly a year after ariving on this same ferry. On the ferry we had a few beers to substitute for the ones we were denied a few nights ago, and feasted on cheese sandwiches. In Algeciras we went to the train station and decided to book a sleeper to Madrid for tonight. Since we had several hours to spare we put our luggage in storage and caught a bus to Gibralter. Gibralter was a trip - a piece of England in Southern Spain - I guess no weirder than Ceuta, a piece of Spain in northern Morocco. Amy was facinated with the supermarket and we spent some time just exploring the vast selection. Bought some wine, apples, cheese, and some sweets for the train. Had a regular pub lunch and a couple beers and just wandered around. Caught the bus back to Algeciras and got on the train. Our berth is incredible, it's a little cabin, but it's got everything - including a hot shower! By far the nicest train facilities I've ever seen. Entry: [Part of original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

August, 1999

August
1

Madrid, Spain
From Algeciras Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain End Location: Madrid, Spain Route: RENFRE Train: Algeciras - Madrid (Overnight) Entry: Despite the luxurious accommodation still felt tired in the morning. The train arrived in Madrid on time at 8:30. The train station was pretty shocking in its bustle and modernness after a year in Africa. Got a number and had some coffee while waiting over an hour for it to be our turn at the ticket window. Bought tickets to Porto on tomorrow nights train giving us two days in Madrid. Entry: Jumped on the metro to head for the Sol / Opera areas where I was going to try and find the little pension I stayed in last time I was in Madrid. At the Sol station the train was packed and it was with some effort that we got off the train - Amy especially as this man kept on blocking her - weird. With out to much walking around (both of us are very tired) I found a hotel which may or may not be the same one, but was nice with a great location and not to expensive. Entry: At the hotel Amy realized she didn't have her wallet. The last time she could remember having it was when we bought our Porto tickets. Her wallet had her passport, credit card, ATM card, all the cash for her vacation, driver's license, checks, etc. This was not a good thing to be missing! With some help from the hotel owners and an upstairs tenant who spoke English we tried unsuccessfully to call the lost and found at the train station and had a note written out in Spanish explaining what was missing. Walking back to the metro to head for the station Amy realized that she would have noticed the wallet missing when we had the guide book out on the train - the weird man who kept bumping in to her must have taken it. In hind sight is was painfully obvious and I can't believe I didn't realize what was going on. Entry: We filed a report at the metro police. The procedure was remarkably quick and painless - though I suspect they must deal with a lot of such reports. Just to make sure we went back to the train station and checked that nothing had been turned in - no luck. Amy called her dad to get the credit card cancelled. he called back a little bit later to say the card had been taken by a bank machine when someone tried to use it (she didn't PIN for the card) - good news, but then she realized that her ATM card's pin number was pretty predictable. Another call later and it looks like he didn't try to use it, or couldn't find an ATM that would accept it and now it's cancelled. Entry: It being Sunday there's not a lot we can do about replacing the passport so we sat down in a cafe on the Plaza Mayor for several well deserved pitchers of Sangria. After relaxing and looking on the bright side for a while we decide to go check out the Prado museum. The guide book indicated that it was free on Sundays from two to nine PM. The guide book was wrong, it closed at two on Sundays. Hung out in the botanical gardens for awhile then walked back to Sol. Had a splurge Mexican diner that turned out to be merely OK before calling it a night.

August
2

Madrid, Spain
Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain End Location: Madrid, Spain Entry: Got up early to go to the embassy to replace Amy's passport. Surprisingly it wasn't a hassle. The people at the embassy were great and we could have had the passport in an hour, though we opted to pick it up tomorrow morning instead of sitting around waiting for it. We talked to five others in the same predicament and it looked like there were quite a few others. Went to the RENFRE (train) office to change our tickets to tomorrow evening - again not to difficult. The queues were much shorter than those at the station. Entry: Had lunch, then walked back to the Sol area. Looked (unsuccessfully) for a guide book for Portugal and spent some time wandering around the shops before taking a mid afternoon nap - siestas are so civilized. Entry: In the evening tried to walk around the palace, but ended up a little lost and missing it - saw the cathedral instead. Went to a toy shop then had a great salad at the Hard Rock - lame but I so badly craved a Caesar.

August
3

Medina del Campo, Spain
From Madrid Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain End Location: Medina del Campo, Spain Route: Train: Madrid - Medina del Campo - Porto Lodging: Train: Madrid - Porto Entry: First job of the morning was to go pick up Amy's new passport - no problems. Then spent the day wandering around Madrid. Highlight was the Prado Museum - which I enjoyed a lot more this time around. Caught our train - facilities were severly lacking relative to the Algeciras - Madrid sleeper... Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

August
4

Porto, Portugal
From Medina del Campo, Spain Found In: Route: Train: Madrid - Medina del Campo, Medina del Campo - Porto (Campanha station), Campanha station - Porto (São Bento station) Photo: São Bento Train Station, Porto, Portugal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Amy and I Port tasting, Kopke Port Lodge, Porto, Portugal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 496-336 Photo: Me in port cellar, Kopke Port Lodge, Porto, Portugal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Porto skyline, Graham's Port Lodge, Porto, Portugal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 483-487 Photo: São Bento Train Station, Porto, Portugal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-601 Entry: Train ride from from hell and seats that couldn't have been designed more uncomfortably meant a night of no sleep. Finally got to Porto's Campanha station. Fairly quickly caught a train to São Bento, the downtown station. Had a quick bite to eat (embarrassing, but it was Mc D's), then started the quest for a hotel room. Stopped at the tourist info office for a list of hotels then started walking. An hour or so later and we randomly ended up in the same hotel that I stayed in last year but had completely forgotten until I saw it. Entry: Crossed the bridge to the Vila Nova de Gaia where the port caves (cellars) are. We tried to go to the Sandeman Lodge - the one I visited last year, but there was a forty-five minute wait until the next English tour so we decided to save the 500 escudos and try one or more of the free cellars. We ended up going to three lodges: Porto Vasconcellos, Kopke, and Graham's. We only did the tour at the Porto Vasconcellos lodge, it wasn't very good and after that we stuck just to the tasting. The Kopke lodge was very old and beautiful and they had the best tasting port by far. Graham's Lodge was also pretty good and the view from the top of the hill was spectacular - thought the hike up wasn't so fun. Entry: We had diner at a pretty expensive little restaurant on the river (back on the Porto side). It was good but a little strange as I got my grilled pork about forty minutes before Amy got her fish. Walked home, stopping at the train station to buy tickets for tomorrow morning, then headed home to bed.

August
5

Lagos, Portugal
From Porto Found In: Route: Train: Porto (São Bento station) - Porto (Campanha station), Porto (Campanha) - Lisbon (Santa Apol&ograv;nia station); Bus: Santa Apol&ograv;nia station - Sul e Suesta docks; Ferry: Sul e Suesta docks - Barreiro station; Train: Lisbon (Barreiro station) - Tunes, Tunes - Lagos; Entry: The alarm clock went off and I hit the snooze button - which doesn't work. Consequentially forty-five minutes later we're in a bit of a rush to get the last possible train to Campanha (Porto's other train station). Caught the train without any problems. In Lisbon we decided that we didn't want to keep rushing around (we were planning on being in Lisbon only one day) so we decided to head for the Agarve coast as quickly as possible. Caught a bus to the ferry, got on the ferry five minutes before it left, got to the train station across the river, and less than an hour after arriving in Lisbon we were on our way to the Algarve coast. Entry: Near the end of the ride we realized that we were going to have trouble finding a room anywhere on the coast - others on the train had talked called ahead and found everything booked. I tried calling anyway - no luck in Lagos or Salema. Found a room in Portimão but it was in the giant casino in the $200 a night range. Finally decided to try for a room in a private home in Lagos. Entry: At the train station we went with a woman (Zelinda - same woman I used last year here) to a nice room in a private house. The house is very similar to the one I stayed in last year - complete with the grandmotherly woman who doesn't speak a word of English but doesn't let our lack of Portuguese to interfere with her conversations. We set out exploring the way into town, had a great Italian diner (pizza and lasagna), walked around a bit, and had ice cream. Amy wasn't feeling well so we headed back to a reasonably early night. Just as well as we're hoping to meet up with my friends Christian and Thomas from Norway (see the Sailing in Scandinavia entries) tomorrow night - which means it will probably be a late one.

August
6

Lagos, Portugal
Found In: Entry: Spent the morning sleeping in, lounging, finding a Laundromat, and turning in some film to be developed. Met up with Christian, Thomas, and Bettina (friends from Norway). Entry: We all had lunch together then spent the afternoon at the beach. It was overcast but still warm, so the cold water felt good. After a couple hours it got really gray and there were even a few drops so we moved up to the cafe above the cove and had a couple beers. After arranging to meet later, Amy and I headed back into town and the others headed back to Portimão - where they're staying. Entry: Amy bought a pair of sunglasses and I picked up my photos. We looked over the photos another Italian diner (different restaurant). I just picked out four random rolls which included photos from Tanzania, Uganda, Ethiopia, Morocco, and Portugal. My favorite were some great lioness and cub photos from Ngorongoro Crater. On the way back to the house we did some food shopping, then hung out for a couple hours. Entry: Met up with Christian, Thomas and Bettina. W went to a couple bars in Lagos, then a club out in Portimão (called H₂O). Ended up being a major night with way to much drinking. Bettina didn't drink and some how managed to get us home - though I don't remember it - around five.

August
7

Lagos, Portugal
Found In: Entry: Due to last night's festivities wasn't feeling very good. Woke up around two and tried to get out of bed but nausea and a headache quickly convinced me to get back in. I didn't get out of bed until five when Amy showed up with a bottle of cold water and some breakfast. We were going to diner at Thomas' Aunt and Uncle's in Portimão s we walked into town to pick up a bus and train schedule and buy a couple bottles of wine. We were planning on catching the 6:22 train but between being late and getting lost we weren't going to make it so opted for the 6:30 bus - only to find that the schedule we were given was wrong. Thomas was going to pick us up at the station so we called him and he came to get us. Had a great night - diner was fantastic, the house and grounds beautiful (they've lived there and been working on it for thirty years), and the hosts very hospitable and interesting. Amy and I caught a taxi back to Lagos a little before midnight.

August
8

Salema, Portugal
From Lagos Found In: Lodging: Estalagem Infante do Mar Entry: Thankfully recovered from yesterday's hangover. Pack and walked in to town to see what our options were for heading further West. Opted to head for Salema, about half way to Sagres - Europe's Southwesterly most point. A short bus ride got us to the Salema crossroads. From there we had a couple kilometer hike into the coastal town. Splurged on a very nice hotel room with an excellent view. The town of Sagres is supposed to be a charming fishing village that somehow escaped the tourist boom. I find it beautiful but definitely touristy and with the feeling of a resort town that completely shuts down during the off season. Amy and I spent the entire afternoon on the beautiful beach - very cold water though.

August
9

Salema, Portugal
Via Point Sagres Found In: Stop: Point Sagres, Portugal Route: Bus: Salema - Sagres; Walk: Sagres - Point Sagres - Cape Saint Vincent - Sagres; Bus: Sagres - Salema Lodging: Estalagem Infante do Mar Photo: Point Sagres, Sagres, Portugal
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Point Sagres, Sagres, Portugal
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Cape Saint Vincent, Sagres, Portugal
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Eroded rock, Near Cape St. Vincent, Portugal
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Entry: Checked with the hotel and they had another room for us so we don't have to go searching for a place to stay. Caught a bus to Sagres and were there by noon. It was a beautiful sunny day with a nice cool breeze so we walked the short distance to Point Sagres. The fort that supposedly housed Henry the Navigator's school didn't look like much and had a long line (strike two for Algarve coast being undiscovered) so we decided to skip it. Entry: We were walking along the cliff tops towards Cape Saint Vincent but got distracted by a beautiful beach on the way. The beaches are all small coves with small strips of beach and looming cliffs. Better yet on this side of Point Sagres there's surf! The waves were pretty decent size (maybe 3-4 feet) when we got there but as the tide went out they got big (up to six feet). Without fins or a board there wasn't much I could do but it did feel great to go swim and play in the surf (first time since ?). Entry: After two or three hours in the sun we decided to change into our dry clothing and continue the walk towards Cape Saint Vincent. Unfortunately we got pummeled by a wave on the way and our shorts ended up wet. We decided to sit in a cafe and have a beer why the dried. One beer led to a second and then it seemed time to eat so we walked back to Sagres. Entry: We had tried to arrange to meet Amy's friend Kerry in Lagos on Thursday. She's just finished her service with Peace Corps Morocco and was traveling around Portugal with her father. On the beach we'd been talking and Amy said that she didn't think Kerry was going to make it since it was only for a day before Amy had to head back to Morocco and who knows where she was. I said that if she was doing tourist stuff there was a good chance that she and her dad were somewhere in the Algarve. A couple hours later near Sagres trying to find a restaurant we ran into Kerry and her dad Carl! Entry: We stood in the road talking for quite a while before Amy and I really needed food - so we all headed for a nearby cafe that Kerry and Carl had just come from. Unfortunately the kitchen had just closed for an hour - so we had another beer. And another. And one more. We agreed to meet Kerry in Salema tomorrow where Carl was going to give us all a ride to Lagos on his way to catch a plane in Lisbon. Amy and I realized that we didn't have time to eat before the last bus so we went and waited for the bus back to Salema - which was an hour late. Back in town we were exhausted - too much drinking on an empty stomach. Went out to a subdued diner and called it a night.

August
10

Lagos, Portugal
From Salema Found In: Entry: Packed, and went down to the beach to meet Kerry and her father. Got a ride into Lagos and had some trouble finding a room. Finally ended up in another old woman's house - this one quite the dive. We took the entire top floor two little rooms in the attic. From the window we looked down in to a courtyard where there were these fat old men sitting around in their stained tanktops and boxers, smoking cigars and working on... bunches of roses! Florists, Lagos style. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

August
11

Lagos, Portugal
Found In: Entry: Had breakfast / brunch with Amy and Kerry, then did some internet while the girls were shopping. Went to see a movie - Wild Wild West - it was horrible. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes May 2, 2000]

August
12

Lagos, Portugal
Found In: Entry: Turned in a load of laundry, went by the pet shop (Amy wanted to buy a present for her cat - feeling guilty for leaving her at home). I left Amy and Kerry, dropped off some film, checked email, then met the girls for a Chinese buffet. Had a huge, good lunch and returned to the pad. We were going to rent a boat and I go explore the coves to the west of town. I spent some time looking for a waterproof bag for my camera - I saw one in Lagos but I couldn't remember where and ended up buying a disposable waterproof camera. Unfortunately when we got down to the beach it was to windy for them to rent us a boat - so we had to sit on the beach again - poor us. Entry: Later in the evening Amy and I went on a boat trip out to the grottos and coves that we were going to explore earlier. It was good, but the guide didn't speak English and wouldn't stop to let us take pictures. There's got to be hundreds of arches on the coast here. Entry: Kerry wanted to get a tattoo so we tried to find the parlor, but by the time we got there it was closed. Had diner and then went out drinking. Ended up being a pretty major night and tomorrow is not going to be good - especially since we have a morning train to catch...

August
13

Algeciras, Spain
From Lagos, Portugal via Vila Real de Santo Antonio, Portugal; and Sevilla Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Stop: Sevilla, Spain End Location: Algeciras, Spain Route: Train: Lagos - Tunes, Tunes - Vila Real de Santo Antonio; Ferry: Vila Real de Santo Antonio - Ayamonte; Bus: Ayamonte - Huelva, Huelva - Sevilla, Sevilla - Algeciras Entry: Very long travel day. Wake up with the icky hangover feeling. It's very difficult to get moving and we end up rushing to catch the train. Get stuck at the drawbridge but end up making the train with a few minutes to spare. Two trains, a walk, and a ferry later we're back in Spain. Timing is perfect for a bus to Hueva, and in Hueva a bus to Seville. In Seville there's just barely enough time to catch a taxi to the other bus station and jump on the bus to Algeciras. Luckily the bus stops for diner, which means we get into Algeciras an hour later, but we haven't had time to grab anything to eat all day. Entry: Get into Algeciras around midnight and start the quest for a hotel. Checked the closest hotel - full. Walking towards the strip of hotels by the port a scooter with two people on it passes us slowly. When we got to cross the street I noticed that it had turned around and was stopped a ways up the road, but didn't think about it. A minute later the scooter comes by at full speed and grabs my duffel bag - which Amy is carrying. She doesn't let go and the thief looses their grip and the bag goes flying in to the middle of the street. The scooter takes off, and a car stops just before running over the bag. The bag had twelve rolls of developed film (the entire east coast of Africa) and my big camera in it. The camera appears to be ok and more importantly I didn't loose the photos - and the negatives! Spain has lost a lot of it's charm lately. Entry: After three more rejections we finally find a room at the fifth hotel we try. I guess it's good that we have everything but the events have put me in a shitty mood.

August
14

Rabat, Morocco
From Algeciras, Spain via Tangier Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Entry: Long travel day. In the morning checked with a travel agent what it would cost to fly to London from Málaga and Casablanca. It's quite a bit more to fly from Casablanca (about $300 instead of $150) so even through I can't get a flight from Málaga until Tuesday I decide to go from there. We also check the ferry schedule and Amy decides she's going to take the noon ferry to Tangier. Over breakfast we talk about it, and I start thinking about it. The cost of lodging, transportation, and food is more in Spain, plus I'd get to London earlier in the day and thus have a better chance to get a ticket home quickly if I fly from Casa. I convince myself to go to Morocco and at 12:40 (the ferry was late) I'm on my way back to Africa. Entry: In Tangier we walk straight to the train station, conveniently next to the ferry terminal - I knew where it was from last summer when I came to Africa. Unfortunately the train station has been moved - now it's way outside town. So we decide to take a bus. It's a brand new super deluxe bus, but it' also the slowest thing I've ever been on, I don't think it ever broke 40 mph. Get to Rabat nearly five hours later. Entry: The hotel we were planning on staying in (The Veleda) was full and it was getting late so we decided to stay at the somewhat ritzy Balima. I check the train schedule (I'll need to get down to Casa to catch the plane) and have shwarma for diner. After diner I call Royal Air Morocco since I realized that tomorrow is Sunday so I won't be able to find a travel agent. The only problem is it's a lot more expensive than what I could have bought in Spain. More than $600! Tried to call British Airways but the office is closed. Looks like I might be doing today's travel in reverse tomorrow...

August
15

Málaga, Spain
From Rabat, Morocco via Tangier, Morocco; and Algeciras Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Stop: Algeciras, Spain End Location: Málaga, Spain Route: Train: Rabat - Tangier; Taxi; Ferry: Tangier - Algeciras; Bus: Algeciras - Málaga Entry: Another long travel day. Called British Air this morning to see if they could get me to London any cheaper than Royal Air Moroc - they can't, in fact they want more than $100 more! So catch the eight o'clock train for Tangier. The train is pretty full, but I find a compartment with room, so at least I can sit down. Talked with Ben and Katrina (he's Welsh, she's American) who are also heading across to Spain. Caught the three o'clock ferry. I'm starving, but for some reason the ferry we caught has almost nothing edible - not even candy bars. Get to Algeciras about eight o'clock (lost two hours going to Spain). Walked with Ben and Katrina up to the train station to see what my options are to get to Málaga - not much, tomorrow morning at six is the next train - plus it's going to take more than four hours to get there. Say goodbye to Ben and Katrina and go to check out the bus situation. The Málaga bus doesn't leave from the station so I have to walk back to the port. Entry: There's a ten o'clock bus. Ben had suggesting just going to to the Málaga airport and trying to get standby on the next flight out. Since it's high season and most English charters run through Málaga it should be easy. So I buy a ticket and run to get something to eat. The bus pulls in to Málaga at midnight. Entry: I caught a taxi to the airport and started the quest for a ticket. I wandered around the airport looking for someone who could sell me a ticket but, not surprisingly, everyone was closed. Eventually found a charter office, and there was a flight leaving for London that I could board immediately! While writing out the ticket she realized I wasn't from the UK, didn't have a visa (no matter that I don't need on), and had no onward ticket. It turns out that it was against company policy to issue tickets unless one of those is possessed. Since there wasn't time to issue me another onward ticket I couldn't go. Entry: Very disappointing. Since there's some kind of carnival going on in Málaga the chance of finding a room this late is zero - I'd need to head out of town several stops on the train. Given the couple hour wait for the train, and the slim hope of catching a different plain I decided to stay at the airport. It turned out to be a very long night - most of it in the airport cafe. I wasn't feeling all that comfortable with Spain after Amy getting robbed and the attempted bag snatching the other night and there are no lockers or left luggage facilities here so I didn't get any sleep.

August
16

London, England
From Málaga, Spain via Luton Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Route: Monarch Airlines, Flight ZB 013: MÁlaga - Luton; Train: Luton - London

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain / Overcast Entry: Spent most of last night in the cafeteria reading and drinking various cafinated things. I tried for several more flights - but they were all through the same agent so I could get on without a visa. At five fifteen I waited in line for the check in counter of a flight to London. The flight was full and when I asked about standby the attendant made a number of calls and then told me it was impossible since the main office didn't open until seven. At nine the British Airways office opened, but they didn't have anything until Wednesday evening and in order to try standby I'd have to buy a full fair ticket for just under 90,000 pasatas (~$600). At nine thirty I tried the other charter office with better results, nothing for sure until five thirty tomorrow morning but I could try for standby on a flight at nine tonight. I wasn't looking forward to another twelve hours in the airport so I kept trying. At nine forty-five the Condor office opened (late) and they had a flight I could try standby for at one this afternoon. Spent the next couple hours reading (nearly 700 pages since arriving at the airport), and had some more coke. At noon I went to check on the ticket status and they had room for me! Entry: Probably one of the only flights I'd ever be able to sleep on and I'm in the last row - very noisy and the seats don't recline. Still dozed off a few times. Landed in Luton Airport - it was raining, welcome to London! Took a train to King's Cross, and the Underground to Earl's Court. There's tons of travel agents and a hostel so I figured it would be a good location to look for a bed. Tried a hostel right across the street from the station - great location, and cheaper than the YHA. Most of the people staying here are Commonwealth citizens working in London. Found a travel agent and eventually bought a ticket to Los Angeles tomorrow morning. I looked at the around the world deals but they didn't do what I wanted them to (mainly the only one I could find that was close would only allow westward travel - so I couldn't get to California and then back to Iceland. I'll look at the flights more from home. Had diner, then went to bed relatively early.

August
17

Laguna Beach, CA
From London, England via LAX Found In: Entry: Didn't wake once after closing my eyes until the alarm went off. I was still tired, but dragged myself out. Took the Underground to Heathrow and checked in, wandered around, and then boarded the plane. Not an exciting flight (I guess that's a good thing). I was so tired but couldn't sleep so I watched the movies (Entrapment and The Parent Trap) and drank red wine hoping to be able to sleep (never happened). Entry: In LA I had my baggage searched for the first time. It was actually quite nice, the customs agent was from Egypt and we talked the whole time. Met my parents at the airport - they were late, as usual. Took the long way home. It's amazing how quickly everything seems normal - I was expecting a difficult transition period. Hung out at the house, went out to Mexican food with my parents, Melinda (my sister) and Gary (her boyfriend). Crashed hard sometime after ten. Grateful to be home.

August
18

Laguna Beach, CA
Found In: Entry: Basically just hanging out and enjoying the missed things (family, friends, a refrigerator, the washing machine, etc.). Most days sleep in then spend the afternoon at the beach. Also trying to get back in shape - so far I've managed to swim or run every day.

August
22

Redondo Beach, CA
From Laguna Beach Found In: Entry: Crawled out of bed sometime after one. Borowed my Dad's truck, ran by the festival to see Gary's band (sister's boyfriend). Dropped off some prints for my mom at the Sawdust then headed for the freeway. Spent an expensive couple hours at Fry's electronics buying toys and CDs. Headed up to Los Angeles to visit Nick. We went out to dinner then hung out and talked until late.

August
23

Laguna Beach, CA
From Redondo Beach Found In: Entry: August 24: Suit shopping. Went out to diner withDawn (friend I stayed with in Addis) - and ended up playing pool and staying up late drinking. Entry: August 25: Chris and I swam (3.5 Km!) then hung out. Re-packed my pack (I'd used a box I shouldn't have). Went shopping w/ Mom, had diner, and went and saw the new Star Wars movie. Back at home ordered a ton of guide books from Amazon.com. Entry: August 27: Wedding Day I! Spent the morning / afternoon working on my trip itinerary. Got my pack mailed in for repairs. Went to Chris' first wedding (Baptist). It was a pretty brief affare and it was great to see everyone. The reception afterwards was nice, despite being dry. A buch of us went to the Ritz Carleton for drinks afterwards (with Wendy, Wolf and Tomoko, both Gregs, Zac, Chris Burner, Shanon and Jim, TJ, and others) - definitely the first time I've been in there and felt dressed for the occasion. Photo: Mom and Tomoko, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos, Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 882-236 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Photo: Wedding photos (Mom took these), Chris & Janet's wedding, CA
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 496-348 Entry: August 28: Wedding day II! The wedding was supposed to be long - four to five hours - but it ended up being nearly six! It was actually really fun. Lots of rituals and history, but also very playful and informal. I think Chanthu must have changed dresses six times, and Chris four - and all the costumes were incredibley elaborate and very flashy (Chris had the Liberachi look going at times). There was a lot of great food and there's something nice about walking around all dressed up but in bare feet. The reception was a couple hours later at a Cambodian restaurant. There was an incredible twelve course meal, but only Hennesy's (Coniac) to drink. I finally ended up buying beers at the bar and bringing them back. After the reception (it wound down around midnight) a bunch of us went out in Long Beach - ended up being a very long day.

August
30

San Francisco, CA
From Laguna Beach Found In: Entry: Tomoko and I caught a mid-morning flight to San Fransico - on Reno's last day as an airline. Caught a taxi to Wolf's place then walked around the Marina district and had lunch with Tomoko. Entry: Spent the afternoon with my travel agent buying tickets. It took a long time and cost me a lot of money but I now have my very unorthadox route to Sydney (via Key West, New Yourk City, Iceland, Morocco, Mauritius, Madagascar, Singapore and Bali). Entry: Had diner with Wolf and Tomoko, and Wendy and Bunny showed up for a bit.

August
31

Red Bluff, CA
From San Francisco Found In: Entry: Slept in as late as possible - pretty challenging between the sun light and the traffic noise. Wolf went in to work early so hung out with Tomoko. Tried to find a car to rent. I wanted to go one way to Red Bluff where I could pick up my car. Enterprise wanted $1/mi. drop off fee for one way rentals (Red Bluff is ~200 miles away!). Ended up renting from Avis, and arranged to pick up the car at 1:30. Got a ride to rental place only to find them closed for lunch - guess the national office where I made the reservation doesn't keep track of such details. Waited until the were open again (two), then waited another hour for the car to get there. Finally got going at around three. Entry: Luckily the drive was shorter than I feared, and once I got beyond Oakland there were no traffic issues whatsoever. It was great to see Amy, and also to see my car again. Dropped off the rental car in nearby Redding, then had a great rib diner. Spent the night looking at photos and talking.

September, 1999

September
1

Portland, OR
From Red Bluff, CA Found In: Entry: Said goodbye to Amy when she left for work. Spent the morning getting the car ready to go - checking the oil, installing the lock box in the back, and packing. Finally got off a little before ten o'clock. The drive was pleasantly uneventful. It was a beautiful day and traffic was light. Got to Portland around 4:30 and found my friend Elizabeth's new place with no problem. Entry: Elizabeth and I sat around and talked then went through the photos. Ethan, Elizabeth's boyfriend joined us and we all went to diner at met up with a mutual friend Melissa and her boyfriend Ken. Melissa and Ken had also recently moved to Portland. Elizabeth and Melissa were friends from Seattle but were unaware that they had both moved to Portland (Eli went Seattle - Eugene - Portland, and Melissa went Seattle - Durango - Portland). Had a great diner (I had jumbalia) then went to a pub and went through the photos again.

September
2

Redmond, WA
From Portland, OR Found In: Entry: Had brunch with Elizabeth and Ethan then headed for Seattle. The drive wasn't to bad and the weather was perfect. Nice an warm - excellent for the top down. And clear - excellent for mountain viewing. Saw Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helen's before it started to get a little cloudy to the East. Never did see Rainier. Entry: In Seattle headed directly for the East side since it was starting to get towards traffic time. Dropped by Microsoft and hung out distracting everyone from work - and giving them a chance to laugh at my hair. Went over to Steve's to meet his son Ryan and check out his new house (both new since last time I was here). Had diner with Tim then crashed at Tim's new house. Entry: Everyone I know in the area seems to have new houses, cars, etc. It's amazing how well everyone has done.

September
3

Redmond, WA
Found In: Entry: Sept. 3: Went and renewed my driver's license. The old one expired this December, and I'll be in Sydney. Plus the old one was was literally falling apart. The plan was to spend the afternoon water skiing with my friend Dave. The weather was beautiful and it's supposed to rain tomorrow so the timing was perfect. Unfortunately we couldn't find anyone to be a third in the boat. I ended up hanging out at Microsoft and attended a Friday "Wine-Down" for old times sake. Spent some time trying to register a domain name (OnHiatus.com coming your way soon...) then Steve and I headed to the Woodinville Redhook brewery. Brian and Jeanie joined us a bit later - it was fun, almost like the old days. Entry: Sept. 4: Hung out at the house, checked email, and registered a domain name for my travel journal (OnHiatus.com). In the evening Tim, Amy and I went to diner at Mamma Melina's, my favorite Italian restaurant. Met up with lots of old rowing friends at the Trolleyman. Shane who I haven't seen in two years, Cora who I last saw in Rabat over a year ago, and Gail, Matt, Carlos, and Lisa who I haven't seen since being in Seattle last summer. Lisa and Carlos have just got engaged so there was lot's of celebrating. Gail and I went for a late night snack at IHOP so she could flip through my photos. Back at Tim and Amy's around 3:30. Entry: Sept. 5: Hung out at the house. Fixed the driver's side door in my car (wouldn't unlock). Went to Steve's for a party - and the door broke again. Ended up staying the night at Steve's - an amazing guest room. They might have trouble getting rid of me...

Entry: Sept. 6: Spent the gray rainy day at Steve and Michele's migrating my journal program to my new provider. Went out to diner with Steve, Michele, and Ryan. Watched the movie Bullworth in their home theatre - I definitely need one. Entry: Sept. 7: Had lunch with my old Microsoft group at Saporo's - Teriyaki! Went out on Lake Washington with Steve, Jeremy and some of Jeremy's co-workers on Jeremy's boat. Went shopping at Fred Meyer's - ended up buying five CDs, a shirt, and some toiletries. Went and swam with my old swim team - the coach was the only person I still knew (though she told me there were still a couple of the others around). On my way to Tim and Amy's stopped at REI to spend my dividend and ended up spending a lot of money. Bought a daypacks, a fleece top, a pair of pants, a shirt, a pair of shorts, a flashlight, and a bunch of small things. Entry: Sept. 8: Tried to schedule appointments with the dentist and the travel clinic. Eventually managed to get an appointment with the dentist for tomorrow morning, but the travel clinic is booked until October - doesn't do me a lot of good. Spent some more hours migrating my journal to my new internet provider - got most of the journal script running. Had lunch, got my eyes examined (not much change in the last couple years), and did some more shopping (Books, soap - nothing exciting). Had diner with my cousin Deirdre in Seattle. Good to see her, but reminded me of how strange it is just popping in on people once a year or so. Entry: Sept. 9: Two hours at the dentist - he decided to replace a filling that he'd put in four or five years ago. Went shopping then hung out at Microsoft. Called Dave to arrange a visit in Colorado. Met Rose at Redhook, and had a great evening remenicing about the old days. Entry: Sept. 10: Dropped by the Redhook offices to say hi to friends. Met up with the Microsoft gang to go for lunch at Dixie's - Steve, Bryan, Matt, and I. Huge line so lunch ended up taking an hour and a half. Back to Tim's, spent the afternoon working on the journal code - need to get it to work with distributed photos. Went out to North Bend and had a great diner with Marcie and David, and Allegra and Tim at Allegra and Tim's. Ended up sitting up talking late and didn't get home until after two. Entry: Sept. 11: Had lunch with Julian and Kandice. They were leaving for the weekend so it was pretty short (especially since I was so late getting there). Went to a party at Matt's (whole MS crowd was there). Ended up being a full night and didn't leave until after midnight.

September
12

Boise, ID
From Redmond, WA Found In: Entry: Had breakfast with Tim and Amy, and Scott. Was on the road by eleven. It was a beautiful day and the mountains were crystal clear. It felt as if they had come out to say goodbye - Rainier, Baker, St. Helen, Adams and the Olympics and Cascades - it was actually a little weird. Entry: The drive was uneventful except for getting more and more tired. I'd hoped to get to Twin Falls, but gave up a couple hours short at Boise. Called Edina planed to get together on Wednesday. Called Wolf and arranged to meet him in Vegas next weekend.

September
13

Laramie, WY
From Boise, ID Found In: Entry: Woke up an hour ahead of my alarm so turned it off - and then fell back asleep. Woke up again only an hour late and the found out I hadn't adjusted the alarm to the time change so I started two hours late. Not surprisingly I didn't make the full 792 miles to Denver. I actually missed a turn near Salt Lake City and ended up going 60 miles out of my way. I made it as far as Laramie, so tomorrow I should be able to make it to Denver in a couple hours.

September
14

Lakewood, CO
From Laramie, WY Found In: Entry: Unexciting drive. Met Dave at work (Kaiser Permanente) - can't believe how, well, respectable he looks. A long way from living in a van in front of my parents house. Went back to his house and hung out talking. Went into downtown Denver, walked around, and played pool before going to meet Audry for diner. Back at the house sat in the Jacuzzi (guess they are successful!)

September
15

Boulder, CO
From Lakewood Found In: Lodging: Edina & Scott Entry: Followed Dave into Boulder to meet Edina. Met Edina and spent the morning catching up and looking at photos (hers from Morocco, Tibet, and Southeast Asia; mine from Africa). Walked around the Pearl Street shopping area downtown. Spent the afternoon hiking in the foothills of the Rockies. Had diner at a great Thai restaurant then hung out with Scott (her fiance) back at their house.

September
16

Moab, UT
From Boulder, CO Found In:

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Partial Sun / Rain Lodging: Moab Valley Inn Entry: Not a very exciting drive day. Lacked the motivation to drive and had to keep on stopping to recharge. Got to Arches National Park a couple hours before sunset - but it was already dark - very heavy storm clouds. The Campground in the park was already full - which surprised me it being after the high season and a Thursday. The ranger gave me directions to some BLM campsites about ten miles away. On my way it started to dump rain and thunder and lightning. I wimped out and decided to stay in a hotel in Moab. Finding a motel in Moab was difficult - there are dozens of them but they were all full (?!?!). Finally found a room at a very nice hotel - guess tonight is a splurge night. It's no fun staying at a fancy hotel by yourself. Got email from Wolf canceling Vegas. The good news is that now I have a couple extra days to hang out in the Utah parks, the bad news is that I could have hung out another day or two in Colorado.

September
17

Zion, UT
From Moab Found In: Photo: La Sal Mountain, Arches National Park, UT
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-601 Photo: Delicate Arch, Delicate Arch Upper View Point Trail, Arches National Park, UT
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-601 Photo: Delicate Arch, Delicate Arch Upper View Point Trail, Arches National Park, UT
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-601 Photo: The Fiery Furnace, Fiery Furnace View Point, Arches National Park, UT
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 483-487 Entry: Woke up to crystal clear sunny skies. Found out this morning that Moab's annual music festival is going on - thus explaining the lack of accommodation. By the time I got to Arches National Park there were already no campsites available - so I'm not staying here tonight. I asked at the ranger station if they could check to see if any sites were available at Canyonlands National Park - there were a few, so I planed on heading there for tonight. Entry: In Arches I drove the length of the park road and hiked the Park Avenue Trail, the Delicate Arch View Point Trail, and the Delicate Arch Trail. On the Delicate Arch Trail I ran in to the same ranger I'd talked to at the HQ and she told me that she had just heard on the radio there were no more campsites at Canyonlands - oh well, Zion then... Entry: I visited Delicate Arch with my parents probably more than twenty years ago. It was amazing how the view of the arch brought back a flood of memories. It's spectacular, but also crowded. In fact I found the entire park crowded - and it's post season. The only places I had any breathing room were on the four wheel drive only roads, and at the Delicate Arch View Point I somehow managed to sit on a rock without anyone coming by for a half hour. Entry: Next time I come to Arches I'll aim for even further into the off season and for a full moon - it would be incredible. Entry: The drive to Zion was unexciting. As I was leaving Arches I could see heavy clouds and rain to the east - luckily I was heading to the west where only clear skies could be seen. At dusk, shortly after turning on to I-15 towards Las Vegas (and Zion) there was some rain ahead. I stopped and put up the top (just as well as it was also a bit cold out) and shortly afterwards there were a few drops. As I approached Zion's western gate the skies cleared and the stars were brilliant - as they can only be in the desert. Entry: Not surprisingly Zion's campgrounds were full. I drove through the park (first time I've done this in the dark), and found a commercial RV Park / Campground a few miles outside the park's eastern gate.

September
18

Zion National Park, UT
From Zion via St. George Found In:

Weather: Sunny / Rain / Partial Sun Photo: Desert rainbow, St. George, UT
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 483-487 Entry: Woke up early to blue skies and packed up camp. Drove back into the park to the Watchman campground - full! Luckily the South Campground still had a few spots. Set up camp then headed to the park headquarters. I was debating between hiking the Subway (my all time favorite hike) or the Narrows (probably Zion's most famous hike). The flash flood warning was moderate - not good since both hikes are in slot canyons and involve wading. I finally decided to do the Narrows since there will be other people there - just in case (last time I did the Subway I hiked for ten hours without seeing a single other person). I made a quick run to a store outside the park for water and some lunch food. Entry: Despite my early start it was eleven by the time I got to the River Walk trail head (the gateway to the Narrows). The River walk is a short, paved trail that leads to the narrow canyon known as the Narrows. From the end of the paved trail most of the hike is in the Virgin River. I was planning on hiking two to three hours up to a side canyon, having lunch, then returning. The hike is beautiful, the red and gray canyon walls tower above, bright green trees sometime descend to the water, and red and white sand beaches dot the river. Unfortunately less than an hour up the river the sky clouded over and it started to rain. It didn't rain hard, but I could here thunder up the canyon and decided the risk of floods was to high. So I was back at the car by 1:30. Entry: A little put out by the weather I debated giving up and heading for Vegas. A check at the park HQ again showed only a 20 percent chance of rain tomorrow so I decided to wait and see how the morning looks. I was planning on doing the Angel's Landing trail tomorrow before heading out, but weather permitting I think I'll try the Narrows again. Entry: I decided to drive the 40 miles into St. George to see a movie and get something to eat. On the drive the skies cleared and by the time I got to town the sun was hot. Had pizza, dropped off a roll of film, then caught a movie (Blue Streak - OK, pretty funny). When I came out of the movie it was pouring rain - but the sun was out and it was still hot - very weird. There was one of the brightest rainbows I'd ever seen. Entry: Picked up the film. It was a roll of ISO 100 that spans from Lesotho to yesterday. I'm not all that happy about the shots, but was relieved to see the photos turned out - it's the first roll of film I've had developed since the camera got thrown in Algeciras. Entry: The drive back to Zion was uneventful and dry. Shortly after turning in it started to rain again - I wonder how tomorrow is going to be.

September
19

Las Vegas, NV
From Zion National Park, UT Found In:

Weather: Rain / Sunny Entry: Woke up at seven to the rain - dozed until sometime after eight waiting for the rain to stop. Packed up camp and headed to the park HQ. To my surprise the flood hazard was listed as low (with all the rain?!?). Decided to try to hike the Narrows again, but as I got back into my car it started to rain hard again. So I decided against hiking and started for Las Vegas. Entry: In Las Vegas before noon. There's not a cloud in the sky and it is hot. I can't believe how many new super casinos have been built in the last two years -The Belagio, The Venician, Paris, Mandalay Bay, and more. Spent over three hours walking the strip. Checked out the new casinos, saw the lion enclosure at MGM Grand, explored New York, New York (it hadn't opened last time I was here), and checked out room prices. Something else has changed in Vegas - it's expensive. You used to be able to count on cheap lodging and food - not anymore. Apparently the legalization of gambling in most states has caused Vegas to realize it's in demand and the incentives have gone away. Cheapest room I could find was the Motel 6. Decided to splurge and stay at Treasure Island - got a very nice room on the thirtieth floor. Entry: I was sick of walking around in the heat (and in fact have blisters on my foot) and for some reason I didn't feel like gambling so I decided to catch a movie. Saw "Sixth Sense" - excellent! Entry: I was hoping to see the Cirque du Soleil's new show "O" (eau) but it's been sold out through the end of October so my only chance was with cancellations. The movie didn't get out until seven and the show started at 7:30 at the Belagio - a ways up the strip - so I didn't have much of a chance. Got to the box office ten minutes before curtain and... got a ticket! Third row even, though nowhere near center. Entry: I tried to think of how to describe the show. It's a combination of acrobatics, dance, theater, special effects, synchronized swimming, gothic horror, romance, high diving, ballet, opera, clowns, symphony, and pretty much everything else. Even now five hours after the show my mind is buzzing try to figure out what I saw. Whatever you call it - it was excellent. Well worth any price.

September
20

Laguna Beach, CA
From Las Vegas, NV Found In: Entry: Left about noon. Didn't even think of how bad traffic was going to be. It turned out the there was one bad spot going into Barstow, but I just got off and took old route 66 for a couple miles to avoid it. Took the new toll (well since I've been here last) road from Riverside and got a very pleasant surprise - no traffic and it's got to cut 45 minutes off the drive! Entry: Back home I'd gotten a package of guide books and my pack returned. I really liked a lot of things about my Eagle Creek pack. I had a few pet peves, but it was as good as any of the other travel packs I've seen and better than most. I'd sent it in to have the zippers repaired (Eagle Creek covered this even though it's a '95 pack) - they send me back an entirely new pack - the '99 model which has fixed most of my complaints! This company rocks for customer service. Spent the rest of th night going through the guide books I'd ordered from Amazon. It looks like I'm going to need a Madagascar visa - but no idea how / where to get one.

September
21

Laguna Beach, CA
Via Hollywood; and Laguna Beach Found In: Entry: Sept. 22: Called the Madagascar embassy in Washington DC. It looks like the time constraints aren't going to let me get the visa taken care of, but I can (hopefully) get one in Mauritius. Entry: Sept. 24: Drive up to Hollywood to hang out with Wendy. Meet at her work (Warner Studios) - I feel important because I park in the spot reserved for one of the Gugenhiems, Out to mexican for diner. Try to go to an Art happening, but the wait is way to long so end up at Wendy's and watch "Sunset Blvd". Entry: Sept. 25: Sleep in. Went out to an interesting breakfast (peanut butter, banana, and chocolate chip sandwiches fried in egg like french toast - enough said) with Wendy. It's cold and grey so spent the afternoon with a movie rental. On the drive back to Laguna I stoped to have a beer with Jason (an old friend from college rowing days) in Westwood - it took an hour+ to find parking!! Entry: Sept. 26: Family diner with Mom and Dad, Johana, Melinda and Gary, and Linda and Waren. Entry: Sept. 27:Hung out at the house. Drove Paul to the airport. Went to the doctor, decided against the bilharzia test. Got a disk drive for my H/PC. Dug the Jeep's top out of the garage. Entry: Sept. 29: My parents left early this morning to Morocco, via a couple weeks on the east coast. I went down to San Diego. Spent the afternoon shopping for health supplies (pain reliever, RX stuff - Cipro and Larium, deodorent, and fungus stuff), then went to the Travel Stop in Pacific Beach - talked alot, bought some replacement parts, new Tevas, a travel pillow, a hat, and some stuff bags. I had a great diner with old college friends, Mike, Chris and Dietka. On the way home I stopped in Oceanside and called John, another old college friend. We ended up meetinf for a late night beer, then quickly checked out his pad. Entry: Sept. 29: Spent the day packing. Took care of some of the errands I had to do (printed bussiness cards, got the photo section of the journal working properly). Watched a great movie, Baraka, with my aunt Johanna (she's house sitting for my parents) and stayed up very late packing - but got it mostly done.

September
30

Hollywood, CA
From Laguna Beach Found In: Entry: Sept. 30: Spent most of the day dealing with getting my car changed over to Wolf (my friend who's car sitting for this next leg). I couldn't find the pink slip and didn't have any of the needed signatures so it took a lot of creative work with the documents. Did some last minute shopping, an had diner with the Hanke's and Wendy. Ended up staying up very late talking and drinking beer

October, 1999

October
1

LAX, Los Angeles, CA
From Hollywood Found In: Lodging: Continental Airlines, flight 1196 (LAX - Houston) Entry: Only got four hours of sleep again last night. Went with Wendy to her office at Warner Bros. I was going to figure out something to do, but couldn't motivate and ended up spending most of the day laying on the couch in her office - at least I got mostly caught up with my journal! Had luch with Wendy and her friend, then wandered around the studio a bit. Entry: When we got back to Wendy's I realized my wallet was missing - my thought was that it probably fell out when I was tossing and turning on her office couch - so it was back to the office - where sure enough there it was. Lucky me, Leaving tonight, a lost wallet was not what I needed to deal with. Entry: Had a fantastic diner at a trendy Santa Monica restaruant (The Border Grill?) - saw Exine (sp?) from the rock band "X". Afterwards we all walked around the 3rd Street promanade. Then Wendy rushed me to the airport for my 1:30 AM departure.

October
2

Key West, FL
From LAX, Los Angeles, CA via Houston, TX; and Miami Found In: Route: Continental Flight 1196: LAX - Houston; Continental Flight 1518: Houston - Miami; American Airlines Flight 5213: Miami - Key West

Entry: Actually managed to sleep most of the LAX - Houston flight, so at least I got two hours. All the flights went pretty smooth with only the Miami - Key West leg running late. Which is great, because that was the only leg that didn't have a very tight connecting flight. Stacy was waiting for me at Key West. She'd decided to make life easier and had rented a car. We found a nice place to stay and set out to explore the town. Actually didn't do much. Had a great Cuban diner then met some of Stacy's shipmates (off NOAA's Ferrel) for a few too many beers.

October
3

Key West, FL
Found In:

Entry: Crappy weather. I slept almost twelve hours (well needed). Stacy and I had a nice lunch, wandered around town, checked several dive shops (most aren't diving because of the weather). Caught the movie Three Kings, which I didn't like to much, and went to bed relatively early.

October
4

Key Largo, FL
From Key West via Bahia Honda State Park Found In:

Entry: Drove up to Key Largo. Stoped to frolic in the water at Bahia Honda State Park on Bahia Honda Key. Found Laddie's house (a friend of Stacy's who is out of town and letting us borrow his place). Talked to several more dive shops and aranged to go out on a boat tomorrow (a place recommended by Laddie). Went out for pizza, then hung out at a deserted NOAA bar.

October
5

Key Largo, FL
Found In:

Weather: Partial Sun / Overcast / Rain Entry: Diving! Actually woke up to sun! Smooth ride out to the dive site...

October
6

Key Largo, FL
Via Aquarius Habitat, Carysfort Reef, off Key Largo Found In:

Weather: Rain / Overcast / Rain Entry: Got a great night sleep. Stacy got up early (well, earlier than me) and took the car. I hung out at the house reading. In the afternoon, just as we were heading out to find something to do, Dave - a NOAA friend of Stacy's - called to see if we wanted to go diving. Entry: It was a great dive, and Dave lent me all the equipment except for a regulator, so it was cheap. We dove around the marine sanctuary habitat which requires a special permit - luckily Dave is the one responsible for issuing these! The habitat was pretty cool, I've never seen anything like it except on TV. We even got to stick out heads into it, though not any further since the air is suspect right now (no one is living on it at the moment). Also got to see a pretty big Nurse Shark (five to six feet long), and lots of other fish (some giant baraccuda) - a really nice dive. Entry: Went to Sharky's for a beer with Dave and Curt, who also came out with us but only snorkled. Hung out talking with Curt for quite a while. Curt is the head of the marine sanctuary program in the carribean country of St. Vincents - or rather is in charge of setting one up - pretty interesting to talk to.

October
7

Key West, FL
From Key Largo Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Gray day. Did laundry, cleaned up Laddie's house, and drove back to Key West. Stopped on Marathon Key for key lime pie - it was OK. In Key West found a room at the same place (even nicer than the last room though the bathroom is shared). Went to diner the to the Hog's Breath Saloon for drinks.

October
8

Key West, FL
Via Fort Jefferson, Garden Key, Dry Tortugas National Park Found In:

Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Mostly Sunny Photo: Pilot napping, Fort Jefferson, Dry Totugas National Park, FL
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-615 Photo: Wing mirror, Sea Plane, Dry Totugas, FL
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-046

October
9

Queens, New York City, NY
From Key West, FL via Miami, FL Found In:

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain Entry: Slept to late, and after showering, shaving, and packing it was a close call making the airport in time. Pulled into the airport parking lot 15 minutes before the plane was scheduled to leave - luckily the flight was running 15 minutes late. Which made for a tight connection in Miami, but I made it and then we sat in the airplane for over an hour before it finally took off. Unexciting flight to New York's JFK. Had to wait a while for Dana to show - there was some confusion over which terminal I was landing at. Entry: Went out for Thai food then rented a couple movies (Analyze This, and Saving Private Ryan). Both movies were a bit disapointing after all the hype - I even fell asleep durring the final battle scene of Saving Private Ryan.

October
10

Queens, New York City, NY
Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Basically a walking day.Took the subway into Lower Manhattan (City Hall). Checked out a couple stores (electronics / photo). Walked up past Soho, Chinatown, Little Italy (stoped for a slice of pizza), East Village, Union Square Park, Flatiron district, to Times Square. Tried to see a movie, but everything interesting was sold out. Had a great BBQ diner at Virgil's. Took the subway back to Queens and hung out talking.

October
11

Queens, New York City, NY
Found In: Entry: Drove in to Manhattan. Spent the afternoon walking around Central Park. The highlight was definitely the roller disco - think people watching. Went to B&H Photo - a potentially very expensive trip but we got there minutes before closing so I only bought film and a set of close up filters. Back in Queens we had great pizza and made root beer floats while watching the video Blast from the Past.

October
12

Queens, New York City, NY
Found In: Entry: Walked around Dana's neighborhood (Forest Hills). Went and saw the movie American Beauty - very dark, but good. Met Jon (a friend of mine from my early Microsoft days) in Brooklyn and had diner / drinks at the Park Slope Brewery.

October
13

Queens, New York City, NY
Found In: Entry: Spent the morning walking around Forest Hills (Queens). Got a haircut - first time in a year and six days! Hung out with Dana when she got back from work. Tried to get hold of my friend Dawn (see Addis Ababa, Ethiopia) to arrange diner, but we can't seem to connect. Ended up going with Dana to karioke in Brooklyn - I didn't sing.

October
14

JFK Airport, New York City, NY
From Queens Found In: Entry: Spent the day getting ready to leave. Did laundry, had lunch with Dana, hit the bank, and packed (and packed and packed). Recorded some music from Dana's collection then hit the airport.

October
15

Reykjavik, Iceland
From JFK Airport, New York City, NY via Keflavic Found In: Reykjanes Peninsula's Flag

Region: Reykjanes Peninsula

Weather: Rain Entry: The flight went by quickly, never got a chance to even try to sleep. The plane actually landed twenty minutes early (at 6 AM). It was raining and the strong wind caused the drops to fall sideways - rendering the shelters ineffective. By seven I was on a bus for Reykjavik (The international airport is actually in Keflavic), and by eight I was in Reykjavik at the downtown Icelandair hotel. I caught a taxi the last little way to the youth hostel - only to find the SkyBus (the bus I obviously got off of a stop early). By eight thirty I was checked into the the hostel and the sky was finally starting to lighten - though with the rain it's kind of hard to tell. Entry: I really only have two days to spend in Iceland, so I couldn't afford to spend the day sleeping, but at the same time I was useless after being up all night. Luckily the hostel kicks everyone out starting at eleven - so I was able to take a couple hour nap and not be tempted to sleep longer. Got up and caught a local bus down town. Spent the day walking around Reykjavik. The cold weather and icy wind meant plenty of coffee breaks. Reykjavik seems like a standard Scandinavian capital (reminiscent of Copenhagen) crossed with a sleepy village. Pleasant enough, but not a whole lot to look at.

October
16

Reykjavik, Iceland
Via Kerið Crater; Gullfoss; Geysir; Hveragerð and Found In: Reykjanes Peninsula's Flag

Region: Reykjanes Peninsula Photo: Langjökull glacier in distance, ?, Iceland
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-046 Entry: Up at eight for the tour. Way to early, but got to see a beautiful sunrise - looks like blue skies today! Moved my stuff into the luggage room (have to change rooms tonight). Go outside a few minutes early to wait. And wait. And wait. It's cold outside so I keep jumping in to warm up. Finally when they're fifteen minutes late I go in to ask the manager where they are. He tells me I'm fifteen minutes late - I've missed them. I tell him I've been out there twenty and he tries to call the company and can't get hold of them. Apparently there was a group that got on from the hostel - so the bus did come - they must have come early while I was putting my stuff in the luggage room. The manager is very apologetic and I'm pretty unhappy, it's not as if I can go tomorrow... I finally find an afternoon tour that covers most of the same places and book it. Entry: Spend the morning being lazy and reading. Later went for a walk and hiked among the tons of public art (sculptures) outside the city center. Entry: Waited for the tour bus (again) and was starting to panic (again) when they were fifteen minutes late, but they showed up. Entry: First stop was Kerið Crater, not to far outside of Reykjavik. It's an old crater - quite deep - with a lake inside it. Nothing like the scale of Crater Lake in Oregon, but also very beautiful. The surrounding rocks are such a bright green from the moss and grass. Here I realized that it may be beautiful and sunny out but it's cold! Maybe 4° C (39° F) and with the brisk wind... Entry: We drove by the Langjökull glacier - Europe's second largest - and it does look big. Stopped at Gullfoss (literally "Golden Falls"). These are beautiful falls. They cut diagonally across a canyon and fall in a couple levels. You can get as close as you like (or dare) to the water at the top or half way down. Hiked around the falls and along the canyon rim for an hour. Entry: Geysir was the first geyser ever discovered - and is where the word "geyser" comes from. Unfortunately the Geysir geyser is mostly dormant. They used to pour soap into it to force it to erupt on demand - obviously not done anymore. Fortunately there is another geyser (Strokkur) in the park that erupts every four to six minutes. It's no where as high as Geysir, but still spectacular - and not much of a wait (as I remembered sitting in a hail storm in Yellowstone waiting for the Riverside geyser for over an hour - before giving up!) Sat through five or six eruptions then wandered through the other springs - not too exciting since the wind rippled the surface preventing good visibility in the normally crystal blue water. Entry: The last stop on the tour was Hveragerði a large village (almost two thousand people) that is almost exclusively supported by geothermically heated (like all of Iceland) greenhouse farming. The greenhouse we got to visit was a total tourist trap - tacky souvenirs took up at least eighty percent of the the space. Entry: Back at the hostel I just couldn't motivate myself to go get diner so I made do with the vending machine (not exactly healthy). At some point a large fireworks display started going off over the city. I stepped out to watch it and when I glanced the other direction got a real show! The Aurora Borealis display was incredible. Entry: It started out as a line across the sky. It looked like a long cloud lit by the city lights underneath - except it was slightly green and the city wasn't under it. Really not that much different from the faint aurora I saw over Isle Royal in Michigan - but much brighter. As I watched it clarified and turned into a wall or ribbon - and then in began to dance. "Dance" seems like such a cheesey way to describe it, but really it is the only way I can - and it's inadequate. The ribbon looped and swirled into its self, creating a spiral maze with purple and blue flares as well as green. The aurora was spectacular and grand, yet personal. It touched me and I couldn't help but wonder if everyone else would see the same thing, or if it would be a totally different show for everyone who watched. Eventually it settled down to the same faint "cloud" and I felt the cold again. Entry: Got my gear mostly packed so I could more easily catch the five thirty bus tot the airport. Finally got to bed around one - the five AM alarm is going to be brutal...

October
17

Casablanca, Morocco
From Reykjavik, Iceland via Keflavic, Iceland; and London, England Found In: Reykjanes Peninsula's Flag

Region: Reykjanes Peninsula Route: SkyBus: Reykjavik - Keflavic; Icelandair Flight 450: Keflavic - London; SpeedLink Bus: Heathrow - Gatwick; British Airways Flight 6920: London - Seville - Casablanca; Train: Airport - Casa; Taxi: Train station - hotel Entry: Caught the bus with no problem (I was a little worried given yesterday's problems). Ditto with the plane. I know that I'll be back to Iceland, last night's experience with the auroras guaranteed that! In London had to go through immigration and customs since I was flying into Heathrow and out of Gatwick. Caught a bus to Gatwick, did some quick shopping and had a quick lunch and I was in the air again. The winds on the first leg to Seville were very bad so the plane ended up being about 40 minutes late into Casa. Entry: On the plane I had been going through the guide book planning on how to get to Ouarzazate (where I'm going to meet my parents) - looked like two full days on a bus - so I decided to check flights. I was pretty sure my parents were already in Ouarzazate and there was a flight leaving in a couple hours so I bought a ticket. Before leaving California I made sure that I had a copy of my parents itinerary - so of course I can't find it anywhere. Finally found a phone that worked and someplace that could sell me a card for it and called home. Johanna gave me the run down on the next couple days of my parents itinerary - they're not in Ouarzazate till Wednesday! I decided I didn't want to be there for two extra days so changed my flight to Wednesday afternoon and then headed for the train into central Casa. Of course I just missed the train so had to sit around for over two hours until the next one - spent it in a tea saloon - not the worst way to adjust back to Morocco. Entry: In Casa, quickly found a hotel - I was worried since I'd called ahead and found out my usual hotel was full. Quite a travel day: five airports, four cities, two buses, two flights, a train, and a taxi!

October
18

Casablanca, Morocco
Found In: Entry: Spent the day wandering around. Walked, had coffee, walked had tea, repeat. I've never wandered around Casa before - I always considered it a bit of a pit. Actually it's very pleasant - lot's of parks, wide boulevards well planted with trees, and if the people aren't particularly friendly at least they don't hassle you. In the evening found an internet cafe and spent some time with email. Got hold of my mom (my parents are in Taroudant right now) and made arrangements to meet them in Ouarzazate tomorrow. Ended up staying up late writing a "charmap" application for my H/PC (I got sick of trying to figure out how to do accented characters on my handheld - allows the easy entry of things like: Å, Ç, ð, é, ¶, and ¿).

October
19

Ouarzazate, Morocco
From Casablanca Found In: Route: Taxi; Train: Casa - Airport; Royal Air Moroc flight 679: Casablanca - Ouarzazate; Taxi Entry: It was very loud last night = not much sleep, and the alarm went off way to early. Packed, actually managed to got out of the hotel on time, but the taxi took thirty five minutes due to traffic (about five minutes last night). Not a problem, as the next train was later than I thought and I ended up getting to the airport with time to spare. Getting on plane I noticed someone two people in front of me - my friend Lindsay! (See Chefchauen, July '99 entries) Weirder yet she just happened to have the seat next to mine! Entry: In Ouarzazate shared a room with Lindsay. I walked around and found my parents hotel - eventually. Ended up walking an extra hour - the maps in my guidebook really suck. My parents hadn't checked in yet (I was about three hours earlier than our agreed upon time) so I went out wandering (this time intentionally). Was back at their hotel at six, the agreed upon meeting time - they didn't show up until nearly seven. Had diner with their tour group, hung out with them, then returned to my slums.

October
20

Ouarzazate, Morocco
Found In: Entry: Decided not to go with my parents' tour group to the Kasbahs - I'd rather have the extra sleep and I was worried about getting back in time to make my scheduled call to Amy. I called Amy and she wasn't there. Met Lindsay at a cafe then realized that it's Wednesday and I was supposed to call on Thursday. Called back since I figured there was a good chance someone at the teleboutique would have gone and got her - they did. We made plans for me to get to Goulmima tomorrow or Friday and to go North to Ceuta or Algeciras, hopefully via Fès, this weekend. Entry: I was supposed to meet my parents at their hotel between 11 and 11:30. I got there a few minutes late - they showed about ten minutes later. We spent the afternoon having lunch and shopping at the various stores, stalls, and the souq. Found a restaurant that would prepare Pastilla and ordered for us tonight. They went off for an late afternoon tour and I sat at a cafe drinking tea, reading, and watching Ouarzazate go by. Entry: Met my parents for diner. We had the pastilla (Moroccan pigeon pie) - it wasn't the best I've had but it was still pretty good, and I think my parents enjoyed it. After diner did some late night shopping then arranged to hitch a ride with the tour group to Tinjdad (about 30 km from Goulmima) tomorrow morning.

October
21

Goulmima, Morocco
From Ouarzazate Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Route: Taxi; Tour Bus: Ouarzazate - Boumalne du Dadès - Todra Gorge - Tinjdad; Taxi: Tinjdad - Goulmima Photo: Mud brick buildings, Kasbah Ben Moro, Skoura, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-046 Photo: Snow capped mountains, Kasbah Ben Moro, Skoura, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-615 Photo: Mosque ruins, Kasbah Ben Moro, Skoura, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-615 Photo: Snowy mountains and desert vista, Boumalne du Dadès, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-615 Photo: Ruins, Tinerhir, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-615 Photo: Ruins, Tinerhir, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-615 Photo: Spring at head of river, Todra Gorge, Morocco
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-561 Entry: Got up early to go meet my parents and their tour group at their hotel - I'm hitching a ride with the group. I think that I'm just not a tour person - I found even the seven hours I spent with the group pretty painful. Stopped at a couple random kasbahs for photo ops. Had lunch at the spectacular Todra Gorge - but an amazing number of tour buses, at least a dozen! The bus dropped me off at Tinjdad around 4:00. An easy fifteen minute taxi to Goulmima - right to Amy's door. Hung out and talked with Amy until she had to go to work (evening class). I relaxed and read. When Amy got back we cooked a diner out of what we scrounged - turned out great. Up pretty late catching up.

October
22

Goulmima, Morocco
Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Entry: Amy and I are going to take a long weekend and head up to Ceuta (Spanish North Africa). It's going to be a very long trip, but she needs to get her passport stamped for visa reasons. We're going to leave tonight - turns out the best option is a ten o'clock bus to Meknès, changing to the 2:30 (AM!) bus to Rabat, then another bus to Tetouan, and... well, it's going to be a very long night! Entry: Spent most of the day reading and talking. When Amy went to teach her class, I finished the character tool application that I started in Casablanca and then packed. When Amy got back from class we had diner (pretty much everything in the kitchen that might spoil fried with potatoes - yum!). Caught the bus a few minutes after ten. Quickly realized that I was going to be very cold - I'm cold already and there are mountains between here and there. The fun begins...

October
23

Ceuta, Spain
From Goulmima, Morocco via Meknès, Morocco; Rabat, Morocco; and Tetouan, Morocco Found In: Region: The Rif Mountains Spain's Flag

Country: Spain End Location: Ceuta, Spain

Weather: Rain / Overcast / Partial Sun Entry: A very long travel day. Spent the entire night and most of the day on buses. Changed buses in Meknès for one heading to Rabat. Another bus to Tetouan and yet another to Fnideq. Started walking from Fnideq (it's only a mile or two), but quickly picked up a taxi to the border. Entry: A pleasant change from last time, the border was a breeze taking only minutes to get through. Caught a city bus into Ceuta proper and started the search for a hotel room. The first place we tried (the place I stayed at last time)was full. It was getting dark and after trying a couple pensions - finding them closed for the season - I said screw it and checked into a nice four star hotel. I could barely walk by this point and just needed someplace to crash - didn't care what it cost. Entry: After being somewhat revived with showers we ventured out to eat. We're a bit early for diner in Spain (it was only nine local time) so not a whole lot was open. Ended up at a take out pizza place. Then bed!

October
24

Tetouan, Morocco
From Ceuta, Spain Found In: Spain's Flag

Country: Spain Region: The Rif Mountains

Weather: Rain Entry: Got up and tried to explore Ceuta, unfortunately everything is closed - it's Sunday. Ended up having lunch at Mc Donald's and getting back on the road. Pretty easy traveling really: caught a bus to the border, had no wait to get through, and quickly caught a grand taxi to Tetouan. By one o'clock we were in Tetouan. Entry: I had been looking forward to exploring the medina - last time I was there everything was shut due to the king's funeral. Unfortunately there were torrential rains. Bought our bus tickets for the midnight bus (yep, another overnight bus) then ended up in a cafe waiting for the rain to stop. It didn't. Sometime around dusk the rain slackened to a drizzle and we set out for the medina, but didn't get very far into it before it started to rain again. Took shelter in a series of curio shops, but eventually ended up at another cafe. Three or four cafes later it was ten o'clock and we gave up and headed to the bus station. Entry: The wait at the bus station was long. No matter where in the world you are, bus station always attract the biggest freaks available. In Tetouan it was sad there were at least three generations of glue glue-sniffers. From the eight or nine year old wild kids to the fifty year old man with so few brain cells left all he could do was stagger around. All of them obnoxious.

October
25

Fès, Morocco
From Tetouan Found In: Photo: Medina gate and sky, Fès, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Entry: Got in to Fès at 4:30 in the morning. Hung out at the bus station until about six. Realized that we will have been gone five nights and only two of them will be in hotels so I decided screw it we deserve a nice hotel and off to the Sheraton we go. Unfortunately (fortunately?) the cost was more than twice what the guide book said and I couldn't bring myself to do it. Tried about five hotels but none would let us check in until 10 or 11. Finally ended up sleeping in the lobby of a hotel until they found us a room. Once we had a room ended up sleeping until after noon. Entry: After so much sitting we decided to do the long walk to the medina Fès el Jedid. We got a little lost, but accidentally ended up wandering to the gate I was looking for. Had an early diner (pastilla - or course - for me). Explored the medieval streets until after dark then took a taxi back to the hotel. Read for a while then early to bed.

October
26

Meknès, Morocco
From Fès Found In: Photo: Skyline, Fès, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Photo: Skyline, Fès, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Photo: Skyline, Fès, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Photo: Minaret and street, Fès, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Photo: Minaret and street, Fès, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Photo: Cooking on street, Fès, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Entry: Spent the day wandering around Fès. Did a good job of getting lost (Fès is rather large), but then miraculously ended up someplace that I recognized. Had lunch and ran into Rob, an America doctor we'd met yesterday, and Sam a Peace Corps volunteer. Entry: Caught a taxi back to the ville nouvau (where we stayed last night) to catch the five o'clock bus to Meknès. While buying the ticket through to Er Rachidia (another all nighter - yea!) we found out that we could take a seven o'clock bus. There's nothing around the Meknès station so it's better to waste the time here in Fès. Unfortunately there's nothing to do around the Fès station either - we ended up walking until we found a passable patisserie. In Meknès we ran into another Peace Corps volunteer and talked with her for a while. Tried to find someplace to walk to but it was cold and there was nothing. The bus ended up running about thirty minutes late.

October
27

Goulmima, Morocco
From Meknès Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Entry: The bus trip wasn't quite so bad this time - at least not as cold - but had at least three people being repeatedly violently ill - not exactly pleasant. Got to Er Rachidia a couple hours late at a quarter to six. Quickly caught a morning bus in to Goulmima, and by seven we were home! I took a five hour nap. Entry: Amy went off to take care of business (visiting friends, preparing lessons, class, etc.). I spent the afternoon finishing the character program that I've already finished at least three times, and trying to get caught up on email. In the late evening I went to Goulmima's (rather new) Internet cafe. It was very crowded and I could only get a machine for about 40 minutes. It was so slow that I wasn't even able to get to a single email message! Entry: After Amy got back from class we cooked diner and had a bottle of wine - very nice. Upstairs the door had been left open and thousands of flies had taken residence. I tried to chase them out by swinging a sarong around - some success, until I caught the light bulb (bare hanging from a wire) and it swung up and hit the ceiling - exploding glass everywhere. The flies won.

October
28

Goulmima, Morocco
Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Entry: A pretty slow and relaxing day. In the evening I tried to email at the internet cafe - but once again it was slow. Spent an hour and managed to send the email I'd written but couldn't read any of the new stuf (50+ messages). Entry: After Amy's classes we went to her old neighbor's (Mamasu and Moha and family) for diner (this is the family that sort of adapted her when she first got here). For propriety reasons I was her uncle. Diner was delicious and not at all painful - despite Amy having to translate everything. We ate Morocan style - everyone one from one plate and sans utinsils (small pieces of bread substitute for fork and spoon, and fingers substute for knife). Amy only had to remind me not to use my left hand once...

October
29

Goulmima, Morocco
Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Photo: Amy in fields, Goulmima, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Photo: Amy doing laundry, Goulmima, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Entry: Took a morning walk around Goulmima. Tried to make a phone call to Australia. My phone card companies number for Morocco will only allow calls to the US. I talked to customer service and they told me there was nothing that could be done. So I called their access number in the US and called from there - who knows how many satellites were involved, but the quality was horrible. Entry: Bought a pair of "made in Goulmima" goat leather sandals to add to my collection of sandals-from-around-the-world-that-I'll-probably-never-wear. Also bought some electric supplies to fix the damage done in the other night's unsuccessful battle against the flies. Had a really beautiful walk back through the fields around the village. Entry: Amy went off to her Berber tutor for her lesson in the local language. I sat around reading and trying to code. Had a small lunch when she got back, then when she went to teach I headed for the internet cafe. The connection is still very slow, but better than the other night - and I at least managed to read my email.

October
30

Goulmima, Morocco
Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Entry: We had breakfast at Touria's (Amy's friend and Berber tutor). After breakfast we headed for the weekly souq outside of town. about half of the thirty minute walk was through the village fields - beautiful, shady (lots of palms), and very pleasant. The rest of the walk was outside the oasis - blistering hot along side the road to Tinjdad. The souq wasn't too exciting, we bought vegetables for diner, fish for Touria, and Amy bought a spice grinder. Decided to skip the taxi hassle and walk back. Entry: Spent the afternoon cleaning and bathing (a pretty major undertaking since you have to head water for an hour). When Amy went out I tried my hand at cooking - salsa and tortillas. Diner was my creations and Amy made soup.

October
31

Goulmima, Morocco
Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Entry: Went to visit some friends of Amy's in Tinjdad (the village I got dropped off in by my parents tour bus when I was on my way to Goulmima). Zora and Moha and their family were excellent and entertaining hosts. I took me a while to figure out what was strange about them - they're all always smiling - pretty unusual for a Moroccan family. Amy had asked Zora to make her a rug and it was finished - it's rather shaggy, but still beautiful. Actually I found the back of the rug (where the shag is tied on) stunning. Entry: Back in Goulmima we (well, Amy) tried to make couscous for diner. The vegetables turned out awesome, and the couscous tasted good, but the consistency was a little strange.

November, 1999

November
1

Goulmima, Morocco
Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Entry: Wrote a web page for A.C.T. (the Windows CE character tool I've been working on since arriving in Morocco). Walked into town to try to arrange a flight from Er Rachidia. After seven calls - the phone kept hanging up on me - I find out that flights aren't operating from there ("maybe next week"). After a few more calls I have a reservation (I think - I'm not at all confidant about it) to fly out of Ouarzazat - a five hour bus trip from here. Entry: Diner was a giant buffet of various curries and Creole foods. It was excellent except for the dessert selection which looked incredible but was somewhat disappointing. The problem with nice meals is that they're really not much fun by yourself.

November
2

Goulmima, Morocco
Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Photo: Amy entertaining, Goulmima, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Photo: Amy entertaining, Goulmima, Morocco
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Entry: Couldn't sleep last night. After I laid there for three hours I gave up and went and got my H/PC. Wrote a hex viewer - a small application that I had decided would be interesting. I think I'll probably clean it up and eventually release it on the web - like the character tool (A.C.T.) I started in Casa and finished in Goulmima. Finally went to sleep at five am. Got up at 10 - I couldn't sleep too late because Zora's grandmother (Itto) and daughter (?) were coming over for coffee. After their visit I spent the afternoon doing laundry - I hate doing laundry. I was way to sleepy to be motivated so I spent the rest of the afternoon, working on Hexer (what I'm calling the hex editor). In the evening Amy and I went to get her buta (gas bottle) filled - it ran out in the middle of heating water for a bath. When Amy went to class I went by the Internet cafe for 30 min then called my friend back in Seattle - it was good to touch base. Started cleaning / packing. Entry: When Amy came home we went over to Lalimina and Touria's for an amazing diner - meat and vegetable couscous. Definitely an improvement over our gooey couscous the other night. After diner I was up later packing for tomorrow's departure. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes November 6, 1999]

November
3

Casablanca, Morocco
From Goulmima via Ouarzazat Found In: Region: Province Er Rachidia Entry: A long travel day. Spent five hours on a bus from Goulmima to Ouarzazat. In Ouarzazat immediately caught a petit taxi to the airport to buy my ticket only to find that the ticket office wouldn't open for another two hours. Ended up in the airport for four hours. Spent another hour on the flight to Casablanca. In Casa the next train into town wasn't leaving for another two hours so I split a taxi with two Canadians (I think honeymooners). I got dropped off at the Sheraton so I walked to the Colbert (the dive hotel I usually stay in) but it was full - again. Ended up at the much nicer Hotel de Noailles - the same place as last time. Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes November 6, 1999]

November
4

Casablanca, Morocco
Found In: Entry: Wandered around the park near my hotel. Went to the internet cafe, but about fifteen minutes in the connection went down. Met an American importer, Ray, at the cafe. He ended up staying in the same hotel I am. We had diner, then a couple beers at a local bar. When the bar close we decided it was still to early and went for a few more beers at the Sheraton. The beers were excellent - draft - something imported from Germany, but they weren't as excellent as the 75 dirhams price tag that we found out about at the end of the night - nearly $8 each! Back at the hotel I decided to finish up the sewing I'd started earlier - my poor pack cover suffered a few more major rips on the Goulmima - Ouarzazat bus... Entry: [Original entry lost - Reconstructed from notes November 6, 1999]

November
5

Casablanca, Morocco
Found In: Entry: Up until nearly six this morning sewing. Obviously I slept in. While trying to copy my journal entries and email so that I could post them at an Internet cafe I managed to delete them. Lot's of email and seven days of journal entries. Sigh. Entry: Went for a walk. Did internet - got copies of the mail that I have to re-answer now. Went by a pharmacy and restocked my supply of Cipro (antibiotics) just in case - decided I didn't want to go to Madagascar without them. Spent the evening working on Hexer (the hex editor program that I've been working on). By the time I finished packing and had a shower and shave it was two - the five o'clock alarm is going to come way to soon.

November
6

London, England
From Casablanca, Morocco Found In: Route: British Airways flight 6915: Casablanca - London, Gatwick; Speedlink Bus: Gatwick - Heathrow; Air Mauritius flight 057: London - Mauritius Entry: Painful to get up. The only remarkable aspect about the flight was the worst airplane meal I've ever had - and I've been flying dodgy bros. all over Africa. At Gatwick jumped on a bus to Heathrow. Was walking to the Air Mauritius check in counter when I realized that I'd left a bag on the bus. Went back - the bus was gone. Went to the main Speedlink (the bus company) office at Heathrow but they couldn't get through. Eventually and hour and a half later they showed up again - and I got my bag back. It's amazing to me that I haven't lost a bag yet... Entry: Hung out at Heathrow for four hours hours until I could check my bag. An hour before the flight was due to leave there was an announcement that all passengers should go to the gate. Where we sat for two hours - sans bathroom or drinking fountain. Another hour and a half in the plane on the ground and we finally took off. At least it's a nice plane, and the diner was much better than lunch on British Airways.

November
7

Port Louis, Mauritius
From London, England via Airport, Mahé and ourg Found In: Lodging: Le Saint Georges Hotel Entry: I was so tired I actually managed to get some sleep on the flight! I dozed on and off for five hours. After landing I got through customs and immigration quickly. I talked to a guy at the taxi stand regarding a taxi in to town. He told me the taxi would use its meter and it would cost between five and six hundred Rupees - which was in line with what the book said and I'd been told. He directed me to a cab and off we went. A few minutes down the road I noticed that there wasn't a meter, so I asked, and the driver said there wasn't one. So I asked if it was just a flat rate of 500 then, and he said no, 700. I told him to let me out and that the man at the stand had said 500 or a the meter. Then he pulled off the piece of paper he had covering the meter - which was running - and said that he'd had a feeling so had started it. A few minute later he said, or your luggage and hit the extra button three times - adding 90 Rupees to the cost. I said no, that was included there was only me and the care could hold four people, the luggage wouldn't make more than the three hundred. We finally agreed to a flat 600. Entry: The hotel I was planning on staying at has closed down so I went to my second choice. It's a more expensive hotel, plus they didn't have any cheap rooms left so it's even more so. I do have a very hot shower, my own toilet, and air-conditioning. Actually it is a very nice room. Tomorrow I'll try to move to a cheaper room though - there's no point in having an expensive room if you're by yourself and are not going to use it. I'm only going to be in Port Louis long enough to get my Madagascar visa then I'll head for the more beach oriented places. Entry: It was late afternoon by the time I checked in to the hotel (the flight was a couple hours late arriving as well as leaving). I couldn't motivate to go for a walk with the remaining light so stayed in my room relaxing - but trying not to fall asleep - I want to be able to sleep tonight. Sometime later I took a shower, then had an ok diner at the hotel's restaurant.

November
8

Port Louis, Mauritius
Via Floreal Found In: Lodging: Le Saint Georges Hotel Entry: Ended up with nearly 10 solid hours of sleep! When I got up I walked to the waterfront to get some brunch. The waterfront is a newer shopping complex very reminiscent of the V & A Waterfront complex in Cape Town. Had mediocre pizza. Caught a taxi to Floreal (about half way back to the airport on the other side of the island) to the Madagascar embassy. Filled out the forms, paid the 625 Rupees (~$25), and handed over my passport and four photos (which thankfully I'd gotten from a machine while waiting at Heathrow). Entry: Back in Port Louis I headed to the Central Market - only to find out it had burned down (again according to the guide books) - four days ago! I walked around the little part of it that wasn't destroyed then took a closer look at the gutted market. It was pretty vivid stuff - along the edges there was still recognizable stuff - burned onions and potatoes here, singed pineapples there, a few melted fans, lot's of unrecognizable melted masses, and worst of all the melted and deformed cages of what was obviously a booth where live animals were kept. Entry: I wandered around the streets some more, and had another lackluster meal (tomorrow I'm going back to street food!) When it started to get dark I hit a cyber cafe and then back to the hotel.

November
9

Port Louis, Mauritius
Via Floreal Found In: Lodging: Le Saint Georges Hotel Photo: Mountains behind Port Louis, Fort Adelaide, Port Louis, Mauritius
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 617-156 Entry: Slept very late - I must have been wrecked! I had to hike to find a taxi (but found the bus station in the progress). I barely made it to the embassy before closing - only five minutes to spare. Not that that stopped them from making me wait half an hour - luckily I had negotiated the taxi price to include waiting. After yesterday's disappointment with expensive food I tried the street food. Lot's of stuff available, most of it pretty good, most of it spicy, some really hot, and all of it really cheap. I stuffed myself for 9 Rupees (~ 35¢) - then spent three times as much on desert - yogurt (to kill the fire in my mouth) and a chocolate bar. Went to the central market again but didn't buy anything. Spent the late afternoon up to, and around the citadel (Fort Adelaide). It's a steep hike at the end, but at the top I discovered to things: one, a panoramic view; and two, Port Louis just isn't a very picturesque city. The fort itself is a monolithic monstrosity that's been somewhat livened up with graffiti. One cool thing - the courtyard of the fort looked like it's been converted in to a pretty slick community theater. After dark I walked to the internet cafe. Despite stuffing myself this afternoon I was hungry on my walk back to the hotel. Nothing is open in Port Louis after dark so I went to the hotel's restaurant again - and was pleasantly surprised. The food was much better tonight.

November
10

Flic en Flac, Mauritius
From Port Louis Found In: Lodging: Villas Caroline Entry: The cost of room has included breakfast - today I finally made it. Only to discover it wasn't worth the effort of taking the elevator down, much less getting up for. Ate, showered (and shaved - who knows when I'll have water this hot again), packed, and checked out by eleven o'clock. Waited at the bus station for an hour then was told it would probably be another hour (I think he said hour, he might have said day) so I gave up. Mauritius is ending up being a place of splurges. Instead of waiting for the bus I hired a taxi (it's only $8 difference...) Entry: I headed to Flic en Flac mainly for the diving so I decided to splurge again and went for a hotel with a dive center - right on the beach, each night is costing more than a weeks worth of accommodation in Morocco... it does include breakfast and diner though. I arranged to dive tomorrow morning, and spent the afternoon at the beach - the first time I've been to the beach since leaving the Florida, and the first time I've laid on the beach since leaving California. I bought a beer and watched the sunset, very peaceful, I'd forgotten how calming it is to watch - did make me a little lonely though. I've tried to live by the rule to not try to avoid splurges, rather try to make the splurges worth it. This is worth it. Entry: Diner was a giant buffet of various curries and Creole foods. It was excellent except for the dessert selection which looked incredible but was somewhat disappointing. The problem with nice meals is that they're really not much fun by yourself.

November
11

Flic en Flac, Mauritius
Found In: Lodging: Villas Caroline Entry: Horrible sleep last night - I was up 'til at least five. At seven woke up and changed the alarm clock from 8:30 to eight so I'd be able to get some food before diving. Somehow in the process I managed to turn the alarm off. I woke up five minutes after nine - I was supposed to be at the dive center at nine! Got dressed, my gear together, and over to the dive shop in under three minutes! Entry: The dive was good. Visibility was pretty good (~80 feet) and the water was warm (~75°C). But I didn't see anything amazing - a year from now I'll remember that I dove here, but probably nothing else. The highlight was a swim through (tunnel in the rocks) at about 25 meters (80 feet). Entry: I decided to skip the afternoon dive and look around the town. There's not much here. Walked the beach down to Wolmar, the neighboring village where all the fancy hotels are. It was a beautiful walk, and the weather has completely cleared up from the morning's overcast. Back at the hotel I wandered through the town of Flic en Flac. Mostly it's just a collection of hotels, restaurants, and tourist shops. I was really struck by how un-African this island is. It really does feel like it should be in French Polynesia. Entry: On my way back to the hotel I bought a beer (at a quarter the price) and went and watched the sunset again. Diner wasn't the giant buffet - I guess they only do that a couple times a week - but it was still good. I arranged for transport to the airport in the morning.

November
12

Antannarivo, Madagascar
From Flic en Flac, Mauritius via Airport, Mahébourg, Mauritius; and Ivato Airport Found In: Lodging: Hotel Muraille de Chine Photo: Mountains, sea, and airport, Airport, Mahébourg, Mauritius
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Entry: Another night of nearly no sleep (well after four before dozing off) - very strange, last night I was having a borderline anxiety attack. It could be the Larium, but nothing like this happened at all last year when I was on it, and this is near the end of the cycle (I take it on Sundays). Anyway I was the walking dead today. Got up, finished packing, had a bit of breakfast (worth it in this hotel!) and caught a taxi to the airport. The flight was unexciting except for a bit of turbulence. In Madagascar I caught a taxi tout (unofficial taxi) into town and found a hotel without any problem. Entry: 'Tana is nothing like I expected. It's a beautiful city much more reminiscent of eastern Europe than Africa. It reminds me a lot of Prague with maybe a dash of Porto - all very medieval. It's kind of like what I expect the older eastern European cities were like thirty years ago - beautiful building, but lots of them showing wear. The people are friendly and except for the ubiquitous panhandlers there were no hassles. I really like this city. Entry: I went to the "Zoma" market - which is supposed to be at it's biggest on Fridays. My guide book claims it is the largest street market in the world - it's cool, but was no where near as big as the markets in Addis Ababa or Kumasi, or for that matter the swap meet at home?!? I'm wondering if I somehow missed it, but I don't think so. Maybe it's moved, my guide book is five years old. Entry: I bought some sewing stuff (snaps and a zipper), an adapter that turns a light socket into a plug, and of course some snacks. But what made my day shopping wise were these little tin whistles - they're loud! I liked them so much I bought ten of them for 150 FMG (Francs Madagasikara) - that's less than twenty five cents, total. Anyway I suspect I've annoyed a lot of people in the hotel because of them. I can't help it they all sound slightly different... Entry: I also found an ATM (there's only one that I've seen) - the most it will let you take out at a time is 350,000 FMG (~$55). I was going to take out four batches, but the machine shut down after the third one - I think I might have triggered some kind of fraud protection routine. I walked all over the center of the city. Passed the palace where people with machine guns told me to walk on the other side of the street - at least the people with machine guns here wear uniforms and point them down, unlike a lot of places in Africa. Walked through a couple of hideously ugly 70's monolith monuments to independence, basically I just enjoyed the city. As a bonus the trees around town are all flowering a beautiful purple! Entry: Back at the hotel I tried to read up on the rest of Madagascar - I'm realizing that 10 days here isn't going to be nearly enough. Right now I'm trying to decided if I should fly all over and get a taste of everything, or stay in one area. Right now I'm tending towards the South coast... Entry: Just killed a cockroach that was about the size of my hand! The mosquitoes are also starting in.

November
13

Antannarivo, Madagascar
Found In: Lodging: Hotel Muraille de Chine Entry: Another horrible night of sleep - could have been the large number of mosquitoes buzzing around. Watched the sun rise then finally drifted off around six - then ended up sleeping until after noon. Spent the day walking around again. I'd hoped to arrange my way out of here - train if possible, plane if necessary - but despite what my guide book said all the offices were closed. Well, the train station was open - but there wasn't anyone there. Looks like I'm here until Monday - if I'm lucky. Entry: Went into a super market to buy some mosquito coils and ran into some other Americans - really my first English speakers here. They were Peace Corps volunteers - just going through training. At the market I also bought some shampoo - I bought a bottle that seemed like it would stay closed in my pack - that way I can reuse it. Predictably just putting it into my daypack knocked the top off and it spilled all over inside of day pack. Sat in a park and cleaned it up - endlessly amusing the locals who gathered to watch. Luckily my camera was in its case and thankfully I had my emergency stash of toilet paper (hopefully I won't regret using most of it!) Entry: Went by an Internet place - very expensive (well comparatively, it's 15,000 FMg per fifteen minutes - about $10 / hr, compared to $3/hr in Mauritius). So I only took 15 minutes - I'll come back tomorrow when I have my email to send with me. Entry: Walked up a different hill than yesterday - it was very similar: narrow cobbled streets, beautiful old houses, and winding stairs. Also tried some new snack foods - they all seem to be pretty good. Had diner at a random cafe that was opened early - it turned out to be very good - and popular. Talked to a Dutch guy who's leaving tomorrow, but has been here three weeks. Also talked to a couple other PCVs. Basically tried to pump everyone for info - I still don't know what I want to do. Basically what I found out is that I need more time...

November
14

Antananarivo, Madagascar
From Antannarivo Found In: Lodging: Hotel Muraille de Chine Entry: Still didn't get much sleep - I think that each day my schedule get's more out of whack and it is starting to snowball. I'm starting to get very tired - tomorrow morning I'm getting up at a reasonable hour - maybe I can force my body back into a normal sleep schedule - that's always been my way of dealing with insomnia - treatment through denile. Being that it's Sunday nothing is open - nothing, even most of the street stalls are closed. Entry: Last night at the restaruant I lent the Danish guy I was talking to my guide book - then forgot to pick it up on my way out. He left thins morning so it looks like I might be guidless. Strangely enough it's not at all scary. The book wasn't real big on details, and I feel pretty confident that I can handle without it. Asked at the reception thinking he might have dropped it off, then went to the restaurant to see if he left it there - he did. os I got the book back, but I still feel pretty good about how confident I felt when I didn't have it. Entry: Spent the afternoon gettin caught of on email and my journal on my handheld. Then I rushed to the internet cafe before they closed - either they closed early, or they don't do Sundays either. Had diner a the same place, but didn't see or hear any other English speakers. Despite being so tired I was totally wired and stayed up late working on a coding problem.

November
15

Antananarivo, Madagascar
Via Ambohimanga Found In: Lodging: Hotel Muraille de Chine Photo: Fields / Mountains, The Rova, Ambohimanga, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-561 Photo: Looking down on village, The Rova, Ambohimanga, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-561 Photo: Rice paddies in valley, The Rova, Ambohimanga, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-561 Photo: Paths inside the royal enclosure, The Rova, Ambohimanga, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-561 Photo: Animist alter inside the royal enclosure, The Rova, Ambohimanga, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-561 Entry: Mostly stuck with my plan and ignored the lack of sleep, actually got up at nine. Went to a travel agent to see about getting out of 'Tana and ended up spending nearly two hours there (not to mention more than one and a quarter million Malagay Francs! Here's the current plan: Tomorrow fly to Toliara (via Tölanaro, aka Fort Dauphin) then take whatever road transport I can find to to Ifaty. Spend tomorrow afternoon, then the next day doing the beach thing (diving, sunning, etc.). Thursday morning head for Isalo National Park via public transport - could be a long day. Go on an evening / night hike, then a morning walk Friday. That afternoon head back to Toliara. Saturday Morning fly to Tölanaro (Fort Dauphin) and spend afternoon and next day there - hopefully getting to Berenty wildlife preserve. Then Monday morning fly back to 'Tana, and Tuesday leave Madagascar - wow it's going to be a busy week! It's also a bit scary because only the first two flights are confirmed - and I don't have any slack if I don't get on that last flight to 'Tana - I'm leaving the next day!! Entry: Actually, today was very productive - at least relatively. In the morning did the travel agent, then spent the afternoon out of the capitol. Did a day trip to Ambohimanga. The once forbidden village of Ambohimanga is the site of the countries most famous Rova (royal palace). Originally built by King Andrianampoinimerina - the head of the Imerina tribe who conquered and unified Madagascar in the eighteenth century. I took a Taxi brousse (bush taxi) from 'Tana - and actually it felt really good to be using local transport again. I've always heard how difficult transport is in Madagascar - well judging from the two taxi brousses I've taken - it's excellent. The bush taxis here are among the best in Africa. They're cramped, but not as bad as most (they don't stack), the music is loud - but not to distortion, and the seats are at least a little padded. Entry: The Rova was interesting, but nothing to exciting. However the site is spectacular - on a hill overlooking valleys filled with rice paddies, and the distant mountains as a backdrop. The area is known for it many tombs. I realized that with some disappointment when I was in Ambohimanga - I hadn't seen any. But on the way out when I was looking... they were everywhere. Most of the hoses are this incredible brick red color - very beautiful grand colonial style building. It took me a long time to realize that despite the houses looking so huge they're actually quite small - almost built on a Disneyland like scale. Entry: I normally leave big bills in my money belt and keep the smaller bills in my pocket. The third time I got into my money belt today I started to get worried about what I was spending - then I realized the "big" bills were only worth about $1.50 - everything is relative I guess. Entry: The traffic coming back into 'Tana was hideous. I finally gave up and jumped out to walk. I knew there was almost no chance of me finding my way home, but I figured I'd walk until it got dark and / or the traffic lightened up and then catch a taxi. It started to get dark and then drizzle but all the taxi's were full and I only had the vaguest idea of which direction to go. Finally I found a taxi and negotiated a price - he drove around the corner and suddenly I knew where I was - bummed, but then it turned out it would have been a longer walk than I thought. Went to the internet cafe to try and send the email that I'd worked on yesterday. but it was full - so I waited. The woman standing behind one of the guys using the computer looked really familiar. I spent time trying to figure out where I could know her from - Seattle? West Africa? Europe? - I just couldn't figure it out. When they were done they looked up and said "Tony?" It was Thomas and Christine - I last hung out with them in Kampala - we met rafting the Blue Nile! Entry: I did my fifteen minutes of Internet then met up with them for diner. We went to a very popular (expatriate-type crowd) restaurant that had been recommended to them and had a great diner (I had Zebu - the local species of cow). It was really great to hang out with good (and English speaking!) company. Since Kampala they've done a similar deal. They had headed South, then gone home for a month for a wedding, returning now to continue traveling (though it's sounding like Christine is starting to be over the whole travel thing). Entry: Rather late I said goodbye to them at their hotel and started to walk back. On one of the dark stairway alleys I had two guys approach and ask me for money. I said no but they kept on holding their hats out and following chattering non-stop. I knew what was coming, and caught the one guy with his hand in my pocket, and the other guy opening my pack - I chased them off, and they didn't get anything. When I was nearly to my hotel (20 minutes later) I realized my money belt was open. The zipper was broken. Either one of the guys was much better than I thought and I was really lucky in my timing, or it just happened to break. Since nothing was missing and it was stuffed with lots of extras (two rolls of film, the hotel key plus a good inch of currency) I'm assuming it was just chance. Kind of a bummer way to finish off a city that I had thoroughly enjoyed.

November
16

Ifaty, Madagascar
From Antananarivo via Toliara Found In: Route: Taxi: 'Tana - Ivato Airport; Air Madagascar Flight 378: 'Tana - Toulanaro (Fort Dauphin), Flight 396: Toulanaro - Toliara; Land Rover: Toliara - Ifaty Entry: Didn't see the sun rise this morning!!! I didn't fall asleep quickly, but I did sleep - I think I just need to ignore my sleep problems - when my body is tired enough it will sleep... Got up this morning and packed - as usual it took longer than expected. By the time I'd gotten out of the room and settled up the bill I was running fifteen minutes late - good thing I'd factored in 45 minutes slack! Negotiated a taxi and was on my way "quickly". Actually the taxi seemed to have two speeds: slow, and stopped. Even worse we hit terrible traffic again. Near the end of the traffic a taxi-brousse rolled back and hit my taxi then drove away - well it turns out that my taxi has a third speed: Bat-out-of-hell. We caught up with the taxi-brousse eventually and there was a heated discussion for a few minutes and we went back to slow - but we still must have made up fifteen minutes. By the time I got to the airport I had chewed up an hour of my forty-five minutes spare - oh well, I got on the plane so I won't complain. A slightly rough flight got us to Fort Dauphin (Toulanaro) and an even rougher flight put me in Toliara. The luggage claim was an amazing display of inefficiency - six guys: move the luggage from the cart to the floor next to the counter, slap anyone who tries to grab their bags. Move the luggage from the floor to the counter, slap anyone who tries to grab their bags. Move everyone away from the counter, slap anyone who tries to grab their bags. Randomly grab bags and move them around, slap anyone who tries to grab their bags. Listen to a random person yelling for the bag, get it, carefully check it against the claim tag - most often put it back on the pile!?!? Repeat, slapping anyone who tries to grab their bags. I would have thought they were looking for bribes, but if they were they were either unsuccessful, or I just never saw any money change hands. Entry: Try to find a taxi to Ifaty but they all want outrageous prices - it's only 24 kilometers away. Finally team up with a French couple (he's going to visit his aunt who manages a hotel in Ifaty) and we negotiate a slightly better price - and off we go. No more than 200 meters from the airport the guy yells stop and jumps out of the car to wave down a Land Rover - with his aunt driving. I ended up with a free ride to Ifaty, and ended up staying at the hotel that my guidebook claimed was horrible - even for a budget place. The guide book says that it's 24 kilometers to Ifaty - what it doesn't say is how bad the roads were - it took well over two hours in a Land Rover - I don't think our taxi could have even made it. It also didn't talk about the amazing scenery - picturesque villages, bizarre looking forests, deserts, mudflats, and blue water - often all in the same place! Spectacular! Entry: The resort village is actually very nice - rustic and primitive, but clean. I opted to splurge the extra $6 for a bungalow with it's own shower and toilet - more specifically within hiking distance of the beach. Got my bags put away, looked at the mandatory - and extremely pathetic (and sad) crocodile kept in stagnant water - and was just in time to watch the fantastic sunset. I did my best to arrange a dive tomorrow (no one speaks even a little English here) - I think I managed, I'll find out tomorrow, then hung out with a group of six English travelers who had rented a car and headed South from 'Tana two weeks ago.

November
17

Ifaty, Madagascar
Found In: Photo: Setting sun through trees, Ifaty, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Setting sun, Ifaty, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Evening on beach, Ifaty, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Evening on beach, Ifaty, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Entry: Slept well! Got up way to early to go see if the dive was going to work out. Found the Dive center I was supposed to go with, but of course they had no idea I was coming. Still, the dive master had a couple going out on a shark dive. He was a little hesitant to take me along since he'd never seen me dive and it was going to be quite deep (more than 100 feet), but I convinced him. The same couple had gone with him yesterday morning to the same place and they'd seen thirty or forty sharks. We didn't see any. Still it was a really nice dive. It was along the reef wall and the decent was through a chasm so your winding through a narrow coral maze and suddenly you come out in to the open about half way up on a wall - Incredible! Very reminiscent of Bell's, my favorite dive in Dahab. Entry: I'm really torn as to stay here for three more days to dive and enjoy the splendid beach, or to bust my butt for three days getting up to Isalo National park. I'm going to go on another dive this afternoon and look into transportation back into Toliara for tomorrow morning. I'll make my final decision this afternoon, but right now I'm tending towards Isalo - as wonderful as the beach is I've got so little time here I really need to see as much as I can. Entry: Spent the rest of the morning making use of the hammocks in front of the hotel. I made anew friend. There are these birds that kind of look like large black parrots - well they've at least got the beak. This one decided he liked me and climbed up on my chair - much like a parrot with clipped wings would climb, chinning his way up. He sat on my chair back and occasionally butted my shoulder. When I ignored him he made a lot of noise - at one point I was even a bit scared of him - he obviously wasn't scared of me and that beak was big. Entry: Spent some time on my journal and napping. I arranged for a ride into Toliara early tomorrow morning - so it looks like I'm actually going to leave the beach. At three o'clock I went down for the second dive. The Dive Master said we could go, but the visibility was going to be poor due to the wind. Oh well. Spent the afternoon walking on the beach instead. It's so beautiful and so desolate. Every kilometer or so you come on a work gang hauling nets from the water, but other than that I had the beach to myself. Entry: When it got to hot and the flies became to persistent I went in to my hut for a rest. When it started to get cooler (not much) I went for a walk through the village and then down to the beach to watch the sunset. It's a lot hotter and stickier than it was last night and the bugs are much worse - finally gave up on dinner because of their kamikaze imitations. And I don't even want to know what was skittering around on the ground just out of sight every time I walked anywhere...

November
18

Ranohira, Madagascar
From Ifaty via Toliara Found In:

Weather: Sunny / Rain Photo: Ridge in evening light, Isalo National Park, Ranohira, Madagascar
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Entry: Got up early for the ride into town - despite having to stop when the car overheated still made better time. Shortly after nine I was waiting at the Taxi-Brousse station - and at ten and eleven. Took the time to try and figure out the local phone system - a rather bizarre combination of radio and payphone. Finally got through to Air Madagascar but they still can't confirm me - they tell me I have to come by tomorrow afternoon - when I explain I won't be here they say to go to the airport - it shouldn't be a problem. Entry: The advantage to being one of the first people there was that I got the passengers seat - by far the most comfortable, not to mention the best view. The desert landscape was unreal - some of the most bizarre trees, they might have been a species of baobab, they kind of looked like telephone poles with huge trees growing out of the top. I got nearly to my destination in about four hours - then had to wait over an hour for another Taxi-Brousse to fill up (of course I found out later that I could have done this last section immediately in a taxi - for half the cost). Entry: In Ranohira (the nearest town to Isalo National park) I looked for a taxi to take me to the Isalo Lodge - a place that Richard (my Dive Master in Ifaty) had recommended me. Eventually a guy in a Land Rover found me and I hired him to take me about half way back to where I'd waited for the last Taxi-Brousse. He dropped me off, and ... I found out they were full. Hitched a ride back to Ranohira with some French tourists. There I got a local hotel. My room is on the second floor - though I'm not sure it will stay there all night - I can see through the floor into the room below me! It's rickety, but actually seems very clean so I'm not complaining - to much. Though no electricity and no running water... and I just chased out a huge black and yellow cockroach thing. Entry: After getting my room I still had an hour before sunset. I was hoping to do a night walk with a guide (recommended by two separate people). Everyone told me it wasn't possible - I'm not sure if they mean it can't be done, or it couldn't be done because of the rain. As much as I like Madagascar my wildlife viewing attempts are not going all that well. Spent the evening sitting in the cafe on the street reading. Had a great zebu stew for dinner.

November
19

Toliara, Madagascar
From Ranohira via PN Trailhead, Isalo National Park; Piscine Naturelle, Isalo National Park; Frog Falls, Isalo National Park; and Ranohira Found In: Stop: Piscine Naturelle, Isalo National Park, Madagascar Route: Hike: Ranohira - PN Trailhead - Piscine Naturelle - "Frog Falls" - Ranohira; Taxi-Brousse: Ranohira - ?, ? - Toliara

Weather: Sunny / Rain / Partial Sun Lodging: Chez Alain Photo: Piscine Naturelle, Isalo National Park, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Piscine Naturelle, Isalo National Park, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Looking down canyon, Isalo National Park, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Rain clouds moving over escarpment, Isalo National Park, Madagascar
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Entry: Last nights rain blew over and I woke up to magnificent blues skies without a cloud in sight. I was at the park office by eight thirty and off with a guide and provisions (water and bread for lunch - as you're required to supply the guide as well I don't think he was happy with me) by nine thirty. The circuit I'd picket out was 22 km (just over thirteen miles) - not too bad for a day hike, but the catch was I wanted to be back in town around two so I could start the long haul back to Toliara. The time factor, the terrain, the heat, and the fact that I'm just not in very good shape made for a difficult hike. Entry: We (my guide, La-la, and I) hiked up into the escarpment. There's really a series of sandstone escarpments (or I guess ridges) with valleys and streams winding through - quite a maze. We hiked over one of these ridges and down in between another to a place called the Piscine Naturelle (Natural swimming pool) - it would have been a great place to swim. Unfortunately I didn't bring a suite - despite recommendations from the guide book and every tourist I've spoken to. When we got there we had it to ourselves - a large pond partly covered by a grotto and fed from a waterfall. Unfortunately two groups showed up while we were there. Next hike was the longest and toughest. Over several ridges and up and down too many canyons to remember, but we ended up a the "Frog Falls" (I can't remember the French name) - another beautiful spot for a swim. A slightly larger pond almost completely in a cave with a huge waterfall into the middle. From there is was a scramble down a steep canyon to a road and an easy hike back to Ranohira. The last kilometer into town the clouds started racing over the mountains and by the time we got to the outskirts constant thunder and occasional drop was hurrying us home. By this point I was pretty much a wreck - I really had to push myself, but we made it back by two! It really was a beautiful hike and I really would have preferred to spend a few days in the park instead of just a long morning. Entry: Back in Ranohira I drank several liters of water and realized that I must be destined not to see any wildlife. Isalo National Parks is supposed to be one of the best places to see lemurs and colorful frogs - I saw neither. Actually the closest thing to wildlife I've seen in Madagascar (ignoring the insects) was a little brown toad in the W.C. last night. Assuming I can arrange it a trip to Berenty Nature Reserve - outside of Tolanaro (Fort Dauphin) - on Sunday is going to be my last chance to see some of Madagascar's famous wildlife. Entry: Had a little difficulty with the taxi-brusse to the nearby sapphire mining town (never did figure out it's name, but it's where I can catch a ride to Toliara) - I thought they were trying to rip me off - finally agreed to pay half of what they originally asked and was still convinced that I was paying to much - but then I saw a local pay as much for a shorter segment. In the mining town I found a taxi-brusse going my way and asked how much it was. I was told thirty thousand (I'd paid twenty-five on the way) - I insisted that I knew the price was twenty and eventually the price came down to twenty-five. But the guy I was bargaining with was annoying me so I paid the driver with a twenty-five thousand note - he just glared at the guy and gave me five thousand change. The guy was pretty pissed - especially as there was a pretty good sized crowd laughing at him. Entry: Another hour and a half wait for the van to fill up (another brand new one - less than 10,000 km on it) and we were off. I wasn't going to make it by dark as I'd hoped, but we weren't going to be to late. Pulled in to Toliara shortly after a fantastic sunset. I picked a cheap hotel out of the guide book and was pleasantly surprised. No hot water, but a very good restaurant, lovely garden, and clean bungalows. Since as far as I know I'm still waitlisted on tomorrows flight I want to be there early. After arranging for a five thirty taxi, eating, and packing for the plane I could barely keep my eyes open - I know I'm going to sleep well tonight!

November
20

Toliara, Madagascar
Found In: Entry: Slept great last night - dead to the world until my alarm went off. Got up took a quick shower (it's so hot here that even sleeping involves sweating). Met my taxi (I'm always amazed that taxis I arrange for at ungodly hours are always there) and was at the airport before six (eight o'clock flight). Unfortunately I wasn't even close to the first one. When they started processing us a half-hour later I was number fifteen on the waiting list. I tried to BS and say that I'd called and been confirmed but the ticket agent wouldn't even look at the list (obviously I wasn't the first to try this). At a few minutes to eight they started to call the standby list - two of the maybe forty of us waiting got on. Now I'm worried, it's not so much that I'm here another day it's what if this happens on my flight to 'Tana when I fly out the very next day (no room for error). I decide that if I can't get a confirmed seat back to 'Tana today I'm going to start overland this afternoon or tomorrow. I'll just have to bite the bullet and spend a couple days in a taxi-brousse. Entry: Took a taxi directly to the Air Madagascar office which was already quite busy. Over the next fifteen minutes most of the people who'd been denied this morning showed up - but I was the first! Finally got to talk to an agent. She said the next available confirmed seat was on the twenty-sixth - three days after I'm scheduled to leave! She looked at my name again and said "Wait I remember seeing your name on tomorrow's passenger list". But she couldn't find it so then she looked at the next day - nope, so then she looked at today's list - bingo. I wasn't lying when I told the ticket guy that I had a confirmed seat! I just didn't know it and he didn't believe it. So now I had a little bit of righteous anger plus I did my best to charm her and explained the problem and she told me to she'd see what she could do and I should came back before ten. As it was eight thirty I decided to sit there and wait. At nine thirty she got me a flight! It's Monday (the day before I'm scheduled to leave) so if something goes wrong I'll have a problem - but it's confirmed. It also means I'm stuck in Toliara for two more nights. I considered going back to Ifaty - I'd only be able to stay one night but I'd probably be able to get two or three dives in. But they don't know I'm coming so I'd have to pay a lot to get out there - and I have barely enough Malagay Franks to pay for the room - no way could I pay the taxi. So, decided to stay here and go back to the hotel I stayed at last night. Entry: Caught another taxi back to the hotel - only to find it full. Went to another nearby hotel that they recommended. It's a little more (almost $11 a night!) but I get hot water and my own toilet - such decadence! Even more important it has a ceiling fan. It was just to hot to explore, I tried to write in my journal but ended up falling asleep almost immediately. Woke up a couple hours later and decided to brave the heat. I asked the French man who owns the hotel what there is to do here - he said one word "leave". He then expanded by saying there was absolutely nothing to do here just go to the beaches at Ifaty. Entry: I don't have the time or money (I've arranged to pay in US$ here) to go to Ifaty so it looks like I'm just hanging out. Normally I'd be Ok with the enforced relaxation time, but this morning at the airport I just finished the last of the books I brought from the US. I went out exploring anyway and he's right there's not much here. Obviously from the buildings (some falling apart, some never finished) there was a short lived boom here ten or so years ago. Now the town has the feeling that the streets shouldn't even be paved. Most local transport is done by "pouspous" - basically a rickshaw. The market isn't very exciting either. I spent some time looking for a bookstore with some English titles (even just one) but failed - I just realized that I have a hellish flight coming up and no reading material (I've even already read my Singapore travel book cover to cover). I also tried to arange a dive further south of here but without two other people it wasn't possible. Entry: I did find some good fabric shops and had a couple pagnes (sarongs) made - mine (from Nigeria last year) is starting to fall apart. I tried to have an early diner at the same restaurant as last night but they don't open for a couple hours. Had a few snacks from the street venders and came back to write this. Entry: At seven I went back and had diner. While I was there the guy representing the dive center found me and told me that there were four others going. The good news is I get to go for a couple more dives in Madagascar. The bad news is that I have to catch a six AM taxi - so much for going to the Zaza Club (the most respected disco in Madagascar). After diner I went by my hotel's lounge to tell Hubert (the manager) that I was leaving at six so would have the key with me. In the lounge I met a couple Australian fisherman with three Malagays playing pool - needless to say my early night wasn't.

November
21

Toliara, Madagascar
Found In: Entry: Got up before six to catch my taxi south to La Mangrove - where I'm diving. I didn't drink that much last night but I am definitely not feeling to happy - probably more the lack up sleep. The ride is better that the one to Ifaty, but not much and I'm not in a Land Rover this time. When I get to La Mangrove I was informed that there would be no dives because of the visibility but I'd been booked on the tourist excursion. I was not happy as they had tried to book me on this when I first tried to arrange a dive. It smelled a lot like it was setup. Especially since I had spent almost all my local currency on the taxi down - I was to pay for my dive in US$, and they were going to provide me with a ride back. After much ranting and raving they offered to exchange some dollars at 4,500 per - the normal rate is about 6,300! When they said it was no problem - I could pay for the excursion in dollars - I lost it and started walking. It was only 10km to the tarred road and I knew I'd have no problem finding a cheap ride from there. Unfortunately it's so brutally hot here. I ended up catching a ride almost immediately. I negotiated the fare based on the agreement that the driver would take me to a hotel to change money (it's Sunday so there aren't any banks open). Back in Toliara we went by two hotels, a furniture maker, and the central market trying to change money. Eventually he agreed to take US$ and drove me back to my hotel. Of course after the extra driving and because he had to take small bills he wanted more - given my mood, he didn't get it. Entry: It's still early morning and still Sunday - there is nothing to do in this town - especially today. I wrote mail for a while, then took a much needed four hour nap. When I woke up I tried to go for a walk, but it was so hot I gave up before even making it out of the hotel gate. I spent the afternoon laying under the ceiling fan working on my journal and then my current programming project. When diner time came around I got distracted and by the time I went out realizing that I hadn't eaten today everything was closed (just after nine). Even the street venders were pretty meager I ended up with a baguette of bread and water. Not the best day - I really am cursed when it comes to seeing the wildlife here!

November
22

Antananarivo, Madagascar
From Toliara via Ivato (Antananarivo Airport) Found In: Route: Taxi: Toliara - Airport; Air Madagascar flight 397: Toliara - Fort Dauphin; Air Madagascar flight 375: Fort Dauphin - Ivato (Antananarivo Airport); Taxi: Ivato - 'Tana Entry: Got to the airport an hour and a half early (once bitten...), no problems checking in. Then had to sit there for nearly four hours as the plane was more than two hours late. I really can't figure out what I like about this country - sometimes it really seems like it doesn't like me. Ran in to Andrew (one of the Australians I played pool with the other night) so at least I had someone to hang out with. The flight in to Fort Dauphin was probably the roughest flight I've ever had - almost rollercoaster like. Luckily the leg to 'Tana was a lot smoother. Entry: In 'Tana I decided to get a reasonably nice hotel room - I deserve it. Ended up at the Karibotel - pretty much the top of the line for locals. I'm going to get over $50 worth of FMg refunded (from my unused air leg) so I have to spend it (I don't think it can be exchanged back) - I love being able to justify things. I spent the afternoon exploring a market that I saw on my way out of town last week. It's a huge market and was really enjoyable - obviously not may foreigners go and the people were very hospitable. One thing really worried me though. In the back of the market there was a section selling live animals. All the usualls: chickens, rabits, ducks, and geese, but there were also tons of cats leashed there. I'm not sure if they were supposed to guard the birds (they were all around the are selling various fowl), or... I decided not to ask as I've been eating quite a few unknowns lately. I bought a power adapter to run my toys, and some different foods I hadn't tried. Didn't do to well this time both were meat things and had a very weird consistency - I'm guessing some kind of organs. Entry: Bought a T-shirt, besides saraongs and the whistles from my first day, it's the only thing I've bought here. Hit the internet cafe. I was going to just pop in then head to the Hilton to see if I could find a book. It didn't work that way. Even after getting rid of all the junk mail I still had nearly thirty messages. I stayed an hour and downloaded them and got my journal updated. Entry: I was going to have diner at my usual place, but then I opted for an expensive (relatively) place hat Thomas and Christine had recomended. It was good, but the other place would have been better. Was back in my room pretty early.

November
23

Airport, Mahébourg, Mauritius
From Antananarivo, Madagascar via Ivato (Antananarivo Airport), Madagascar Found In: Route: Taxi: 'Tana - Ivato (Antananarivo Airport); Air Mauritius flight 284: Ivato - Mauritius; Air Mauritius Flight 642: Mauritius - Singapore Lodging: Air Mauritius Flight 642 (Mauritius - Singapore) Entry: Hellish day. I negotiated a taxi without any trouble but it then took forever to get to the Ivato airport. At the airport I find out that the airport tax on international flights is 100,000 FMg - I thought it was 80,000. Luckily I have some French Francs left from almost two years ago. Then at the checkin counter they're upset because I didn't confirm. No problem though, they check my luggage through to Singapore. I specifically ask about the Mauritius - Singapore flight - "No Problem". The flight is the seemingly mandatory two hours late. While I'm sitting there I notice that the fabric of one of my pants legs is burned almost all the way through - these are my only pair of pants besides a pair of jeans. They must have gotten damaged in the washing I had done in Toliara - great. I'm sitted next to two huge Malagays who were behaving like spoiled five year olds. They kept calling the attendant over to ask for something else - and laughing hysterically about it. One of them lit a cigarette and pretended not to understand when he was told he couldn't smoke on board. Entry: In Mauritius I've decided to go in to Port Louis - even with the flight being over an hour late five hours is too much to sit around the airport for. Because of the trouble in Ivato I decide to make sure the next leg is Ok and go talk to the reservations desk - Problem. My reservation had been cancelled due to no confirmation. So I spend the next six and a half hours at an airport that doesn't even have a vending machine, much less a restaurant or cafe. The highlight was trekking out to the taxi drivers rest stop in the parking lot. The guy who runs it befriends me and feeds me well (something like falafel, but with chilies - yum). Finally at 10:30 pm they give me a seat. Phew, I was really starting to worry because if I couldn't get on tonight or Friday (the next flight - also full) I was going to have to change the remainder of my tickets - and that's very hard to do this close to the holidays (I'm told nothing is left in to Australia for example). I am again impressed with Air Mauritius - they may be the only flights I've ever been on with plenty of leg room for me. My in-flight entertainment system must have rebooted a half dozen times though...

November
24

Singapore, Singapore
From Airport, Mahébourg, Mauritius Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore Route: Air Mauritius Flight 642: Mauritius - Kuala Lumpur - Singapore; Taxi

Weather: Rain Entry: Slept a few hours on the flight - maybe I'm actually getting used to it. We stopped in Kuala Lumpur but it was really to overcast to see much during landing and takeoff. Singapore is weird. Pretty, maybe even beautiful, but a little off - almost sinister. I keep feeling like I'm in some cheesy Brave New World utopian movie. There are signs all over the places saying not to smoke, don't speed (the taxis start beeping at anything faster than 80 km/h), don't litter, flush the toilet, etc. and everything is very clean. The road from the airport is lined with trees whose boughs make a natural tunnel of green. The trees are very exotic looking with the foliage all on one plane - they look like giant bonsai trees, and with the perfectly manicured grass and flowers the image is really hard to shake. Entry: I checked into a cheaper hotel - still very nice, and nearly double what my splurge in 'Tana cost. Up in the room I was seriously considering a nap but I knew if I did that it would be all over and it would take me forever to adjust to the time changes. Right as I was getting ready to go out a massive electrical storm rolled in. I sat in front of my window and watched the down pour as lightning hits the tops of the tall buildings a few blocks away. When it started to slack off I went out. First stop was a Seattle Coffee Company for some caffeine. I saw a Starbucks down the road but I'll save that for another time - besides I think that Starbucks owns SCC anyway. It was still raining so I took my late and found a cyber cafe. Cheap and fast - a very pleasant change from Madagascar. Entry: Walking around it's amazing. Everything is so clean and orderly. And people are so polite! Singapore seems to be a country dedicated to shopping. The only thing in the city seems to be hotels and malls - with the late way outnumbering the first. I walked through a couple not looking at anything seriously just wandering. First stop was a bookstore - a used bookstore, but the paperbacks are in such perfect condition that you couldn't tell they'd been read two or three times already - is that the sign of a healthy society? Entry: I was heading for Funan The IT Mall a giant six story shopping complex mainly focusing on computers. I wanted to buy another battery for for my hand held. I started at the bottom and did a fairly good survey there were maybe twenty stores that carried what I was looking for - the extended battery pack and the prices varied from S$ 249 to S$ 269 (US$151 - 163), except for one store where it was S$ 99. Everything else in the odd store was in the normal price range, and even though I wasn't planning to buy anything today when I got done with the top floor I decided I wasn't going to do any better than that so I bought it. Entry: Madagascar to Singapore in one step has got to be one of the biggest cultural changes one can do on this planet. I'm having a lot of trouble dealing with all the people and everything is just so... nice. Had diner at... Taco Bell! It was actually quite expensive, way more than at home, and somehow it's not as good when it's not cheap... Back at the hotel I took an hour plus long hot bath and basically melted away.

November
25

Singapore, Singapore
Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore

Weather: Rain Entry: Woke up to more thunder storms. Again quite a show, but I think I've seen enough lightning. Hung out in my hotel room working on my handheld, and doing pushups to combat the mounting cabin fever. Mid afternoon the weather broke and I went out for a walk - unfortunately I only made it about a block before it started to rain. Went for a coffee, then hung out in an internet cafe. Had diner, then went back to the cafe before returning to the hotel. Called home for Thanksgiving - unfortunately for mom and dad I did the math wrong and called them at four in the morning. Still it was nice to talk to them. Not a very exciting day.

November
26

Singapore, Singapore
Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore Entry: Woke up this morning - not raining but very grey. In the afternoon the sun actually peaked through for a while - very hot and steamy. I walked the entire length of Orchard Road looking at shops and parks, but mostly just looking. Saw The World is not Enough the new 007 movie - entertaining if a little predictable. Took Singapore's subway, SMRT, back to the hotel. First new subway system in a year and a half! Not to exciting, though the stations felt more like an office reception area than public transport. I'm starting to adjust to Singapore, it doesn't seem quite so sinister. It is a clean city, but there is the occasional liter, people jay walk and argue with each other - it is underneath a city of people.

November
27

Singapore, Singapore
Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore

Entry: Got up early to try the free breakfast at the hotel - think I'll go back to sleeping in. The sun was peaking through, so I was excited to get out. The plan for the day was to explore Little India and China Town. Well... I started exploring Little India. Entry: The first part I couldn't tell any difference from the rest of Singapore - all shopping centers and hotels. I went through a couple of the malls - they were packed. I don't know if the crowds were because it's Saturday or if this is just a busier district (I'd thought Orchard Road - where I was yesterday - was supposed to be the shopping center of Singapore). This is obviously the place to go for electronics. Pretty amazingly I didn't buy anything. I've got a few things on my list, but so far I haven't been able to find any for less than I could order it off the net. I'm seriously looking at a camera lens (Canon's new Image Stabilized US 28-105mm) but so far I haven't found it anywhere near as cheap as I could get it in NY - the best I've seen it for here is more than a third again as expensive! Entry: As I left the shopping malls behind I can to a new kind of area. Some sections are totally restored and kind of boring - mostly small guest houses, restaurants, and grocers. The other part looked a little more depilated and was more interesting. There were workshops and it actually looked as if some people might live here. It was here that the clouds rolled in and with a clap of thunder it started to pour - really pour. In seconds I was soaked to the skin, a few seconds after that I watched a bunch of rats escape the sewers - this is definitely not the Singapore I've been seeing. I was planning on picking an Indian restaurant for lunch. Instead the weather picked one for me. I stopped at a diner / cafe that was the closest place to take shelter. I had an amazing chicken curry and sat there watching it rain. And rain... After an hour it showed no sign of letting up so I decided to end my walk and started looking for a taxi. Of course there were none in sight so after waiting another half an hour I started walking. By the time I got back to the hotel I felt half drowned and chilled. It's still in the upper 80's / lower 90's but with the wind chill I'm both cold and hot - probably a great way to get sick. Entry: I was going to put on a jacket and go out again but I just couldn't bring myself to swelter inside a jacket - besides if it really started to rain again that jacket wouldn't make much difference. I considered taking a nap but when the weather eased so that it was merely raining hard I put on dry clothes and headed for the internet cafe. An hour there and it stopped raining. Spent another hour on an evening walk checking out the various Christmas displays. Yet more proof this is a consumer land - there are hardly even any Christians here!

November
28

Singapore, Singapore
Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore

Entry: A slow, gray Sunday. Spent the morning working on my H/PC (doing some work on my Icon Editor so I can release it to the net and getting caught up on email). Spent most of the afternoon in a giant bookstore (MPH Stamford). I learned something very important. Entry: A couple friends have mentioned that maybe I should stop traveling as I seem so cynical and jaded in my journal. Others have asked why am I still doing this - and I can't really come up with a good answer. I've worried that maybe I'm still on the road because it's the easiest thing to do. As long as I'm traveling I don't have to answer the hard questions - mainly "what do I want to be when I grow up?" As long as I'm on the road I don't have to worry about a career, where I want to live, rent or own, cats or dogs, etc. Well today I was looking through the travel writing section of the bookstore. Just reading the back of almost every book that I picked up literally gave my goosebumps. Whether it was about someplace I want to go, or someplace I've been - it excited me. I think that next time I'm feeling down I just need to go browse the travel section! but the important thing to me is that I realized I'm still passionate about what I'm doing. As long as that's true I belong here (or there, or there...). Entry: I had a stack of six books in line at the cashier - then I had a reality check - I have to carry these. Considering that and the fact that English books shouldn't be that hard to come by in Australia - I cut it down to three. One travelogue (Peter Biddlecombe's French Lessons in Africa), one that's been on my books I should read list (Anne Frank's Diary of a young Girl), and one from my books I want to read list (Jack Kerouac's On the Road). Also took the book I bought my first day back to the used bookstore and exchanged it for another Tom Clancy (Hidden Agendas).<>I wandered around the Funan Center again, but even this was relatively quiet - most stores closed. Spent the evening at the Internet cafe doing some long overdue maintenance on my web pages (mostly moving things to my domain). It got late fast.

November
29

Singapore, Singapore
Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore

Photo: Singapore River, Singapore, Singapore
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Chinatown buildings, Singapore, Singapore
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Entry: Woke up to at least a little blue sky! Went to the post office to send a small package. Not much different from any other post office I've ever been in - a long line. Walked down the road towards the harbor. Dropped a couple rolls of film off to be developed, then headed for Chinatown. Entry: China town proved to be a little more colorful, but same concept as little India - it's been restored and I have a feeling that the rent increases that came with restoration probably drove most of the ethnic color somewhere else. There are a few shopping complexes here that are excellent though. They were obviously very nice shopping malls that are past their prime. Dripping water, exposed wiring, plywood floors, and free flow construction of ramshackle stalls make it feel a bit like a cross between South Coast Plaza and an West African market. The predominant smells are a mingle of spice and incense - just right for Chinatown. Most of the original store space is taken by medical offices (Acupuncturists, reflexologists, and massage therapists). Entry: My goal was to continue towards the harbor and to catch the aerial tram to Sentosa island. Once again things didn't go as planned. As I got near the tram it started to rain again. It was hard, nothing like the other day, but still enough to soak me. I headed back to Chinatown and took refuge in one of the shopping plazas (I think the Peoples Complex) - an expensive move, I ended up buying a logging depth gauge for diving! I had hoped for the rain to stop so I could maybe catch a taxi to the tram and then continue on - no luck. And the taxi lines were so long (40 - 50 people) that I had to walk all the way back to city center. Entry: At Hunan IT I jumped on the internet for an hour to waste time before picking up my photos. The pictures were Ok, nothing to exciting. The two rolls included photos from Iceland, Morocco, Mauritius, and Madagascar. I think my best rolls (Iceland / Morocco) already got sent home or are still in the camera (Madagascar). I got email from my friends Chris and Chanthu - the reason I went back to the US this last time was for their wedding - they're in Southern Malaysia - very near to here. I tried to call them at their hotel but they were on the phone - so close! Entry: I then did the most touristy thing one can do in Singapore. I went to the grand Raffels Hotel and had a Singapore Sling at the infamous Long Bar. This is technically the only place in the world you can have a legitimate one. It was good, but not up to the hefty S$20 price tag. Exquisite bar though - very colonial - with the exception of all the tourists. Nice touch is the peanut shells thrown on to the marble floor - very un-Singaporean! Entry: Tried calling Chris and Chanthu again - now they're out. Went back to my hotel and hung out reading and trying to call them. Finally got through to them around midnight. Talked to them for about twenty minutes and made arrangements to try and meet tomorrow in Malaysia. The usual hour plus bath (I'm going to miss this tub!) then bed.

November
30

Singapore, Singapore
Via Johor Bahru, Malaysia Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore Route: Taxi: Singapore - Johor Bahru, Bahru - Singapore Photo: Looking across at Singapore, Johor Bahru, Malaysia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Hindu temple, Johor Bahru, Malaysia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Mid water fishing village, Johor Bahru, Malaysia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Entry: Called Chris and Chanthu this morning but they still hadn't heard from Chanthu's brother so didn't know if they had access to a car. We decided that if they didn't get a car we'd still meet in Johor Bahru for the afternoon. I called again at noon and we agreed to meet at the Plaza Kotarya in Bahru in an hour and a half. I got directions for the taxi station from the hotel receptionist and off I went. I knew the taxi station was on Queen street, a mere two blocks away. I walked for thirty minutes and couldn't find the station. Finally I gave up a flagged down a normal taxi - it would cost a bit more, and I'd have to cross the causeway on foot but I was running out of time. I told the driver where I wanted to go and he asked why I didn't take a cheap shared taxi - another 20 meters down the road?!? He dropped me off, I waited a few minutes in a short queue and I was on my way. The rode was smooth until the other side of the bridge where there was a chaotic traffic jam. It ended up taking nearly an hour to get through that, but one through I had no trouble changing a little money and catching a taxi to our meeting place. And only about 40 minutes late. Entry: The plaza was not at all what I expected - it was a rather modern shopping center not unlike what's here in Singapore. We were supposed to meet in the local's food area on the top story - I was a little worried, because nothing looked like it was typically local, but as I stepped off the escalator there was Chris - not at all blending in to the crowd (probably much like me). Chris and Chanthu looked great - I guess the last two in a half months in the sun (Tahiti, Australia / New Zealand, Bali, and now Malaysia) has been good to them. Chanthu's long lost brother (who she hadn't seen since leaving Cambodia 20 years ago and they tracked down a few days ago) was with them along with two of his friends. We had a great lunch in the food court (for lack of a better word). The eating are was definitely for locals and we (well Chris and I) stood out, but everyone was very friendly. I just choose a sampler of unrecognizable things that ranged from excellent (some kind of spicy / sweet pork?) to Ok (the octopus and chicken), to pretty nasty (some fish that tasted days old). Entry: The had a car but with six of us it would be difficult to go any distance. We decided that we should walk around the city. I think Chris and I had the idea that we'd just walk out the door and wander around the more real parts of the city. The locals (Chanthu's brother and friends) had a different idea and drove us to the nicest beach in the city (not that nice) - I think they want to show us what they consider the best the city has to offer. I would have much preferred wandering through the street vendors. Afterwards we went up to this huge palace of a mosque up on a hill and just hung out talking and enjoying the view. The driver needed to get back to go to work, so we said goodbye and I was dropped off at the taxi station. It was unfortunate that we only managed to overlap a couple hours, but it was really nice to see Chris and Chanthu. It's amazing how different (and nice) it is hanging out with people you know well. Entry: At the taxi station I couldn't find any taxis! I asked and was pointed off down the road. I walked down the road and was pointed back! Apparently they've build a new stand and someone was trying to give me directions when someone else overheard and ended up walking me there. He spoke very little English but we both kept up a conversation for the entire ten minute walk (lot's of short cuts through bushes, up embankments, across ditches - I would have never found it on my own). When we got there he shook my hand and waved goodbye - with never even a hint about money. The queue going back was much longer, but in forty minutes I was once again on my way. The traffic in Johor Bahru was terrible, but once we got through the Malaysian border formalities traffic was smooth. We did get stopped by the Singapore customs officials. The guard was very polite and friendly and only glanced in my bag - but I noticed the other four people in the car were thoroughly searched and patted down. Somewhat worrisome, they kept one of the other passengers! No idea what for. Entry: Total time back to Singapore even with the customs stop was well under an hour. I checked email and had a bite to eat then returned to my hotel. At the hotel I had a message from the airline asking me to call and confirm tomorrows flight (I already had - that's how they knew where I was staying). I tried to call, but the office is obviously closed. I'm sure everything is ok, but I am somewhat concerned that the flight time may have been changed. I'll just have to call tomorrow when they open at nine. But given the troubles I had in Madagascar and Mauritius I can't help worrying about it.

December, 1999

December
1

Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
From Singapore, Singapore via Jakarta, Java; and Ngurah Rai Airport (Denpasar) Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia Stop: Jakarta, Java, Indonesia Stop: Ngurah Rai Airport (Denpasar), Bali, Indonesia End Location: Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia Route: Taxi: City - Changi Airport; Garuda Indonesia Flight 827: Singapore - Jakarta, Flight 410: Jakarta - Ngurah Rai Airport (Denpasar); Taxi: Airport - Lovina Lodging: Rini Hotel Entry: Up early and actually had my free breakfast (wasn't any better the 2nd time). Sent a package of guide books home - I could have bought them new for what it cost to send them, but I get sentimental about my guide books. Did a quick fifteen minutes at the Internet cafe to send the mail I wrote last night. Then checked out. Had a surprise extra US$7 per night for service (?!?) and taxes. The taxi driver on the ride to the airport gave me a run down on the anti-W.T.O. rioting going on in Seattle - one gets one's new where you can. After checking in at the airport spent an hour on the net - here more about the rioting from friends in Seattle. Made some calls home to use up my prepaid phone card - it was good to talk to people and I heard more about the riots - just can't escape it. Had a great flight - I scored the window emergency isle seat, two rows of leg room. Entry: The airport in Jakarta is probably the nicest airport I've ever seen - lots of glass and spectacular landscaping out side - felt like walking through a Disneyland version of a rainforest. The flight to Bali was almost an hour late taking off. Got off the plane just in time to see the spectacular pink skies fading. Entry: I decided to brave the long ride to Lovina (on the North coast) despite the late time. I think it would have been a spectacular drive through the mountains - I probably should have waited until morning. It took two and a half hours to get there - longer than I had hoped, but considerably shorter than I had feared. Found the hotel that Chris and Chanthu had recommended a few minutes before ten. Checked out the rooms and decided to splurge (again) for the deluxe room - huge, hot water shower, very clean with fan - and extra $8 / night (and more than double the price at that). The cheap room was nice as well, but would have been a cold bucket bath and a squat, plus there was a giant cockroach in the bathroom. I went out for food, but all the restaurants closed at ten, so I had a beer for diner, then worked briefly on journal and went to bed relatively early.

December
2

Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia End Location: Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia

Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Partial Sun Lodging: Rini Hotel Photo: Boats and mountains, Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Mountains and clouds, Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Mountains and water at dusk, Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Entry: Woke up to some blue skies. Lounged around the room getting organized (I pack differently for flights) and writing in my journal for yesterday (last night I was to tired and just wrote a few notes). Went out and had a huge lunch on the beach. Bali is fantastic - cheap, friendly, and beautiful. The jagged mountains inland are very reminiscent of Moorea (Tahiti), everything is so lush and green, and there are beautiful temples in every hotel, house compound, and even most of the stores and restaurants. I arranged to dive the wreck of the liberty tomorrow and explored Kalibukbuk a little before it started to rain. I tried to use the internet but it was so slow I gave up after fifteen minutes. Entry: Back at the hotel I explored the gardens and temples (there are many) then hung out and had a beer. I tried to make a call to Morocco, but failed. Back at the hotel sat by the pool and had another beer. Set out for diner, and met a group of people (near the pool again) - five Irish, two English, and an American. Ended up having another beer then going with the two English and the American for diner at a vegetarian restaurant - it was excellent, especially the banana pancakes in butterscotch sauce (with ice cream!)

December
3

Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
Via Tulamben Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia Stop: Tulamben, Bali, Indonesia End Location: Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia Lodging: Rini Hotel Entry: Woke up early and just couldn't get back to sleep. Finally gave up and went for breakfast before the dive bus shows up - good thing because the bus showed up twenty minutes early - something almost completely unheard of in Bali. At breakfast I was talking to Rob (the English guy from diner last night) and right when the bus showed up I figured out that talking he knew Chris and Chanthu from when they were here! Entry: The trip to Tulamben took nearly two hours. On the way passed an uncountable number of temples, and in fact we stopped at a huge spectacularly carved stone temple overlooking the sea. The dive masters all got out to quickly pray - "for luck". The dive was on the 110 meter long wreck of the the USAT Liberty (an armed cargo ship). It was torpedoed by a German U-boat during W.W.II, but managed to beach itself on Bali before sinking. The the huge volcanic explosion of Gunung Agung in 1963 pushed it out to sea. It is an amazing dive site. Very beautiful and the wreck is encrusted with coral - but at the same time recognizable as something that was once man's. The highlight of the dive as a long swim through the hold - the variety of marine life, the clear water, and the sunlight filtering through the holes was something right out of a National Geographic special. Also saw an octopus and innumerable brightly colored indigo translucent worm things - they looked like a great special effect from a high-budget science fiction movie. I really wish I had an underwater camera as this was probably the most picturesque dive I've ever done. Entry: On shore had a very mediocre lunch and hung out for a little over an hour. The second dive (also on the Liberty) was also very good, but not as great. It was shallower (for safety) and the visibility wasn't as good - having been stirred up by the worsening surface conditions. Swam through a different part of the wreck, and saw a six foot white tip shark. The dive master said he dove the wreck more than 500 times and never seen a shark there - finally some luck with animals! On the way in also saw a blowfish which did its thing for us. I don't think I've ever seen one live before. Entry: The drive back was again very long. Back in Kalibukbuk I tried email again and was able to read a few but unable to send any - too slow. I also was able to get to CNN and check up on what's going on in Seattle. I'm in Indonesia and they're having rioting in Seattle - something seems a bit backwards... Entry: Did some shopping, ended up buying a couple sarongs and some gorgeous hand made paper journals with covers made from leaves and banana leaves. Spent 60,000 rupiahs! (about US$8). Also managed to get through to the airlines and confirm my flight (see I can learn). Called Morocco and finally managed to talk to Amy briefly (I'd missed the last two calls). Hung out with Rob for a while by the pool - life is rough here at the millionaires club. I had agreed to have diner with Lauren, who was the only other diver at the wreck with me (she was doing her check out dive and then the fun dive for her PADI Open water course). But I was starving so I sampled a few of the street food oferings. he street food was excellent - I hadn't tried it since even the nice restaurants are so cheap (full meal is one to two dollars). Entry: Had another great (and cheap) diner with Lauren. After diner played a couple games of pool, then I wandered down to the veggie restaurant from last night to look for the others from the hotel - they were there. I had dessert (chocolate cake with chocolate sauce and ice-cream this time) and then hung out talking until after midnight.

December
4

Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia End Location: Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain / Partial Sun Lodging: Rini Hotel Entry: Woke up early again, but fought it and fell back asleep. Got up shortly before noon and spent some time writing in my journal and doing a mini work out. After finding someone to do my laundry went for lunch at a recommended restaurant that does Mexican food. I had nachos and guacamole - neither were what I expected, but both were excellent (though don't ask me how it is that banana works in guacamole - it just did). I spent the entire afternoon in the pool talking with other guest or reading. Late afternoon the skies clouded over and there was a downpour. I took cover in the restaurant / bar and talked with the others about diner plans. The consensus was the usual vegetarian place. Since all my cloths except what I was wearing were being washed and what I was wearing was wet... I had to go shopping. After a couple boutiques I found some shorts, a T-shirt, and a sarong (this one for me!) that I was interested in. There was a mighty battle over the prices but it ended up costing me 50,000 rupiahs (~US$7, starting price was 150,000). Walking back to the hotel I was a bit disgusted with myself because I thought I overpaid, but after comparing prices with what the others have been paying it looks like I did very well. Entry: The plan had been to head to diner around 7:30, but after everyone had a beer, then another it was after ten. Went and had another fantastic meal - I'm starting to think that they can't cook a bad meal in this country - at the veggie restaurant. I went back to the banana pancakes with butterscotch sauce and ice-cream for dessert and it was (again) incredible. Sat around talking then got back to the room around one. I'd planned to arrange for a driver and car so I could have an early morning and get out and see some of the surrounding country but it didn't happen - which is good because I don't think the early morning is going to happen either.

December
5

Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia End Location: Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia

Lodging: Rini Hotel Entry: Woke up to torrential rains - so much for my plans of being a tourist today. Kept to my room working on my handheld until the weather slackened around noon. Wandered out to the pool but it started to rain again, so it was back to shelter - this time I sat on my veranda and watched the storm pass. Around three I went to a leisurely lunch with some of the others. After lunch the skies cleared and the sun came out. I spent the rest of the afternoon either by or in the pool. Entry: Went out to diner with the remainder of the usual crowd - lots of the regulars left today. Diner wasn't bad, but it definitely was not close to what I have been getting. To make up for the lackluster diner went back to the vegetarian restaurant for desert. Back at the hotel sat around the pool playing cards until one.

December
6

Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia
Via Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Danau Bratan; Air Panas, Banjar; and Brahmavihara Arama, Banjar Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia Stop: Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Danau Bratan, Bali, Indonesia Stop: Air Panas, Banjar, Bali, Indonesia Stop: Brahmavihara Arama, Banjar, Bali, Indonesia End Location: Kalibukbuk (Lovina), Bali, Indonesia Route: Hired car / driver: Kalibukbuk - Singaraja - Danau Bratan; Danau Bratan - Singaraja - Banjar; Banjar - Kalibukbuk

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain Lodging: Rini Hotel Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Giant tree, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Temple structures, Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, Dano Bratan, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Grey Monkey, Mountain road, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: Bathes with stone nagas, Air Panas (Hot springs), Banjar, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Bathes with stone nagas, Air Panas (Hot springs), Banjar, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Bathes with stone nagas, Air Panas (Hot springs), Banjar, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Bathes with stone nagas, Air Panas (Hot springs), Banjar, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: View down valley to sea, Brahmavihara Arama (Buddhist monastery), Banjar, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Guardian statue in front of fountain, Brahmavihara Arama (Buddhist monastery), Banjar, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Temple and rice paddies in valley, Brahmavihara Arama (Buddhist monastery), Banjar, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Entry: Woke up to sunny skies - perfect since I was planning on hiring a car and driver and driving around the surrounding countryside. Quickly did email - I was hoping for it to be quicker in the morning, it wasn't. Bought some more beautiful handmade books, unlike the other ones I bought I have no idea what I'm going to do with these - just send them home I guess. Negotiated a nice air conditioned car and hit the road. Drove up in the mountains. The vegetation was almost unbelievably lush, and as we rose higher the clouds seemed to descend and soon it was raining - oh well. Entry: Up in the mountains we went to Pura Ulun Dano Bratan, a beautiful Hindu / Buddhist temple, located on the shores of an alpine lake (Bano Bratan). The luckily the rain had stopped as we drove into the little valley. The temple was a maze of intricately carved stone creatures. Their well weathered lines, a patina of moss, and the misty mountains made for the perfect (if a bit surreal) setting. The thatched multi level / roofed temples almost seem to cascade down into the lake (and in fact several are located in the lake - or on very small islands a few meters off the shore). Entry: Drove out of the mountains, stopping to watch some of the many gray monkeys, back into Singaraja. I had the driver stop at the bank (nearest ATM). After some difficulty got some money out. This is the fourth time I've driven through Singaraja, but the first time I've really paid any attention. There are many - or, were many - government buildings here. They were all burned down in the rioting last month. It's amazing to me that people so relaxed and mellow as these seem could be driven to such measures! Entry: Drove to Banjar, some distance southwest of Kalibukbuk. It was pouring rain by now and the hilly roads were sometimes difficult to drive on given the amount of stuff washing over them. Stopped at Air Panas and natural hot spring fed series of pools. The baths are located in meticulously maintained gardens and feature twelve carved nagas (dragon like heads) that the water flows from (eight into the first pool and then six more that channel water from the first (upper) pool to another lower pool. There is also a third pool with the water falling from fifteen or twenty feet up - just the thing for a massage! I was starving so I ate lunch at a great local restaurant overlooking the gardens and pools. After lunch I went and soaked. It was perfect in the rain. I think that on a nicer day they would have been packed with people - not to mention to hot. But in the cool rain with no more than ten other people it was pretty close to heaven! Unfortunately I didn't bring another pair of shorts and the light colored nylon board shorts I was wearing are virtually transparent when wet... I left wearing my sarong - luckily totally acceptable in Indonesia. Entry: After an hour of soaking we hit the nearby (and Bali's only) Buddhist monastery, Brahmavihara Arama. The monastery was surrounded by the typical intricate carvings, but really couldn't compete with the last temple. On the plus side proper attire was required - and my sarong passed. Plus, the view down the valley to the sea was spectacular. Small red roofed temples dotting brilliant green rice paddies and the ocean in the background. Entry: I had intended to visit one or more of the local waterfalls as well, but given the rain (and the resulting mud!) I opted to go home. Back a the hotel wrote in my journal and made plans to depart tomorrow. Diner was at the same fantastic vegetarian restaurant, but with a mostly new group of people. It turns out that Dawn and Jodie are heading to Ubud tomorrow as well, so at least I'll have company. After diner a group of us - mostly the newcomers went for a swim in the pool - the warm water is perfect for night! At midnight I went back and spent an hour and a half packing.

December
7

Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
From Kalibukbuk (Lovina) Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia End Location: Ubud, Bali, Indonesia Route: Hired car / driver: Kalibukbuk - Singaraja - Ubud

Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Overcast Photo: Me at the Ubud palace, Ubud Palace, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: A palace door, Ubud Palace, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Gecko in door, Ubud Palace, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Looking over Ubud's market, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Entry: Up early to finish packing. Set off with Dawn and Jodie to see if we could hire a car and driver for the same as three seats on the shuttle bus. It took a lot of effort (they really didn't want to take us for that price) - but as we were trying to buy are seats on the bus one of the drivers agreed. The drive was pretty again (this is the same pass I drove through twice yesterday on my way to Dano Bratan). The drive took less than three hours and by one o'clock we were checked into a recommended hotel. Entry: The hotel was a little disappointing, adequate was the best that could be said about it (grimy, characterless would be more accurate) - does have a nice garden and the family that runs it are very nice. I've heard so many good things about Ubud, that I was disappointed to find I don't like it. It's very crowded with tourists compared to Lovina, and the people aren't the friendly, happy people I thought was standard for Bali. For the most part they are cold and mocking as soon as it seems they're not going to get another rupiah out of you. At one point in the afternoon I was really regretting coming since it has sort of spoiled my idealized opinion of Indonesia. Entry: I went with the girls to find a restaurant for lunch, but everyplace that looked good was very expensive. Ended up having cakes at a bakery - but discovered the most amazing brownies! Walked around the Ubud Palace which is beautiful and tranquil, and not at all exciting. Ubud is famous for its huge crafts market - and it is big. I found the people not very engaging, and for the most part not at all interested in talking if it wasn't about money a disappointing change from the north. After a couple hours I was completely fed up and I left - without buying anything! Entry: Spent a half hour in an internet cafe (mostly getting my journal caught up - I couldn't access it from Kalibukbuk), then headed back to the hotel. Or tried to head back to the hotel. It's not a very big town, but I got hopelessly lost and wandered around for over an hour before finding my way. Met up with the girls and went to the Balinese ballet Ramayana. The show was pretty good. An amazing gamelan (percussion orchestra) played with the dancers. The little synopsis that came on the ticket was enough to make the ballet accessible. It was really good that there was none of the forced audience participation that most tourist shows insist on, and I certainly don't regret the experience. But I don't anticipate going to another. Entry: After the show went to a small restaurant for diner. It was cheap, and it ended up being delicious, but my meal came a good thirty minutes after the girls had finished theirs. Went back to the same bakery for dessert - the brownies were still excellent, but the staff was very snotty. I've decided that instead of staying another night I'm leaving for Kuta tomorrow. While the cooler mountain air is nice if I'm going to have to deal with big city attitudes then I'd rather be in a big city.

December
8

Kuta, Bali, Indonesia
From Ubud Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia End Location: Kuta, Bali, Indonesia Entry: It turned out that the little winding lane my hotel was on is very loud. Roosters, dogs, children, and an unbelievable amount of traffic. Needless to say I was up early. I was already sticky at eight AM so I was looking forward to my shower - even if it was only cold... but no luck, the water is "finnished". I hung out on my porch and enjoyed the garden for a long while then went to buy my ticket for 10:30 shuttle - only to find it was sold out! It was starting to look like I was stuck here until mid-afternoon, but then the third place I tried also sold tickets for the luxury A/C shuttle bus which ran at 11:30. I was able to get on this one, though it cost me 500 rupiah extra (nearly seven cents). Dawn and Jodie caught a bus to Lombok (well, a bus / ferry combo) and I'm back on my own. Entry: While wandering around trying to find a ride to Kuta I ended up doing some shopping. The small boutiques while appearing much nicer than the market stalls are also a lot cheaper - and more pleasant, and more willing to bargain. I ended up buying a couple small things and also don't feel quite so bitter about Ubud. The shuttle ride was far from full (only three others - and room for twenty-five), and was mercifully short - about an hour. In Kuta we were dropped off "nearby" the hotel I wanted - almost an hour later I found it. Kuta's beach is beautiful and there's a little bit of a swell. Found the hotel that Jodie had recommended. It's far from the Rini, but nice enough - and it does have a beautiful pool. Entry: Checked in, then lounged around the pool for a needed dose of sunlight. Went out exploring. I'm not all that thrilled with Kuta. There is an artisans market and they're willing to bargain, and there are tons of surf shops (both rip off and legit), plus all the fast food you can imagine. But it's also a city that seems solely populated by tourists, drug dealers, and pimps. I almost went ballistic the third or fourth time someone offered me a "little girl" - the descriptions got worse from there. Kuta's redeeming factor is supposed to be the sunsets, but I got lost and with the severely flooded streets I got to the beach in time to catch the fading pink of what looked like and amazing sunset. Entry: I locked myself my room for a couple hours then ventured out for diner and maybe a movie. I walked to a pub I'd seen earlier that shows movies. Caught the end of Matrix, had decent Chinese food then saw A Perfect Murder. On my way back to the hotel I stopped in a bar that had a live band. The band was doing cheesy covers and the bar was packed with Australians requesting Cold Chisel songs. It was actually really amusing for awhile, but after a beer I was over it.

December
9

Kuta, Bali, Indonesia
Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia End Location: Kuta, Bali, Indonesia

Entry: It poured all night - so hard it sounded like I was trying to sleep under a waterfall. In the morning it was still coming down in buckets. Besides my one venture out for breakfast I spent the entire morning in my room. Early afternoon the rain slacked off and I ventured out. My plan had been to spend the day at the beach or pool, but the weather really isn't being agreeable. I did email, then went looking for packing materials - I was planning on sending a box home from here, but I just realized that most of what I have is wood - which I definitely will not be allowed to bring into Australia. So now I must send a package home. I finally found what I was looking for (tape, paper, envelopes) in a department store. The line wasn't terribly long, but the sales person was so slow that I was fuming. It was the wrong time for some one (a local) to step in front of the queue. I let him have it, he tried to act like he didn't understand, but there was a sign in Indonesian and with very clear pictograms, and eventually he moved to the back of the queue - after telling me off and proving that he did speak quite a bit of English (at least all the four letter words). I was thoroughly annoyed with Kuta by this time so I left - at least for an hour. I went and had lunch at the Hard Rock Cafe. Whatever you can say about them, they are consistent and I just wanted some peace and quiet and normalcy - which I got, for the price. Entry: Wandered around Kuta some more in a much better mood. Once you get into the few back streets people are more relaxed and friendly. I think they don't get many tourist even at the best of times, so the recession isn't really affecting them. I went back to my hotel and hung out for a while, then went out to catch another movie at the same pub (the movie was "Club 54" tonight). Afterwards I went to the same bar as last night, different band, but same cover songs. I wasn't really motivated, so I left immediately and walked home. Entry: Got together the packages I'm hoping to send tomorrow and then spent some time answering email and writing in my journal. Realized that I forgot to double check the time of the flight - something else to do tomorrow...

December
10

Ngurah Rai Airport (Denpasar), Bali, Indonesia
From Kuta Found In: Indonesia's Flag

Country: Indonesia End Location: Ngurah Rai Airport (Denpasar), Bali, Indonesia

Weather: Rain Lodging: Garuda Indonesia, flight 716 (Denpasar - Sydney) Entry: My flight out is at 2:30 tomorrow morning. I decided to keep my room so that I had someplace to leave my stuff and shower and change before heading for the airport around midnight. Entry: Faced the rain to get to the post office - ended up taking a taxi. The streets are more flooded than ever, and a very strong smell indicates the sewage system has flooded - delightful, to bad I'm leaving tonight. Ended up spending more than $60 to send stuff that couldn't have cost more than $20! I tried to walk back from the post office but had absolutely no idea where I was so it was another taxi. Had lunch then buried myself in an internet cafe. I was still hoping that the sun would come out enough to justify some beach time, but no luck. Not only is it still drizzling, but the ocean is stormy and not very inviting. Entry: Went out walking and when it really started to rain I took shelter in the same pub I had diner in my first night. I sat there and ate, watching the rain fall horizontally outside and the move Dusk 'til Dawn 2 inside. When the rain slacked and the movie ended I hit the road again. The road has flooded even more and getting home involved some serious wading - I tried not to think about the smells from earlier or the rats I've seen... Entry: Made a half hearted attempt at packing then decided I deserved dessert. Spent more on dessert (and two beers) than I did on lunch and diner combined - but I did deserve it, I'll think of a reason later. Finished packing, took about three minutes to find a taxi. Was at the airport two and a half hours early for my 2:30 AM flight. Once again I'd forgotten about the departure tax, luckily I'd never gotten around to changing my excess rupiah so it wasn't a problem. The flight wasn't to full so there was plenty of space. Unfortunately there was an infant who screamed the entire flight - I don't think anyone on the plane got any sleep.

December
11

Sydney, Australia
From Ngurah Rai Airport (Denpasar), Bali, Indonesia Found In: Route: Garuda Indonesia, flight 716: Denpasar - Sydney Entry: Arrived in Sydney absolutely wrecked from lack of sleep. I was worried about immigration since I'm supposed to have an onward ticket - and I don't - but no problem. Sofie was waiting at the airport for me - she looks exactly the same except she has hair (last time I saw her was two years ago and she was still recovering from her drastic hair cut in Milan). We went back to her house and I recovered a little with a shower (wow! hot water!) Chris, Sofie's husband, Sofie and I then set out on a drive around Sydney. The city is beautiful, and after Indonesia it's pleasantly cool. Had coffee and then walked around by the harbor on the north shore. Chris and I went for beers while Sofie did some shopping, then it was time for a nap. Entry: An hour of sleep helped a lot, and really made me look forward to tonight. We went in to the city to meet Sofie's sisters, her parents, and a few friends for diner. While diner was somewhat average (there weren't very many places we could get in to on a Saturday night), everyone was wonderful and it was a great evening. Back in bed fairly early. Entry: I had a lot of difficulty falling asleep. when I got up to go to the bathroom there was a ridiculously large spider watching me. Obviously it was fake, but then it moved. It was the largest spider I've ever seen that wasn't a tarantula (body between two or three inches). I agonized over what to do. Ignore it, kill it, put it out in the yard... I decided the only real option was to kill it. But with what? I didn't want to squish it because that would make a real mess. I finally ended up trapping it under a plastic cup (the cup to pour water in to the iron). Now what?!? There are no magazines, newspapers, or books in the bathroom (how natural is that?) so I have to scrounge for a piece of cardboard to scoop under the cup. I go to throw it into the toilet and it clings to the wrong part and goes flying the other direction. The hunt repeats because sleeping in the next room I understand it's him or me. Eventually I get him again and he gets flushed. Now I can try to sleep again...

December
12

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Some friends of Sofie and Chris came over for breakfast. It was a beautiful morning so we ate in the garden. After breakfast we went to the beach. Chris and I were going to go snorkeling (Sof worries about the sharks), but heavy wind made the sea way to rough. Ended up going to lay on the beach at Bondi, but it was way to windy there as well. Finally ended up walking around the Bondi Sunday market, then going for a beer. While walking around the market I find a stall selling examples of the local fauna encased in plastic - I found my friend from last night - it was a tarantula, they're just not hairy around here. Ended up calling some friends of theirs and going back to their local pub and making a day of it. Had a great day hanging out at the pub, then went back to Sof and Chris' house for a fantastic barbecue. Not to exciting, but a really pleasant day.

December
13

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Up reasonably early and went for a long walk in to the city with Sofie. I bought a pair of jeans and a SIM card for my phone (so I have a phone number now - if you think you want to call me ask for it). We had lunch, then took a taxi back to the house. We took the car and tried to go swimming at a pool on the north side of the harbor bridge, but it was empty! So we went to a pool nearer the house. It practically killed me but I managed two kilometers. It was a 50 meter pool instead of the 25 yard pool I would be used to - if I'd been swimming. But it did feel good to get some exercise. Went down to the harbor and had coffee, and I found a bottle shop that had Amarula! Sofie had to do some work, so I went to an internet cafe to check up on news. Entry: Sofie made a fantastic diner for Chris, Laura (Chris' sister) and I of some fish that Chris' brother had caught. Sofie and I rented a movie and drank Amarula (Sof doesn't have to work tomorrow either, though Chris does).

December
14

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Photo: Sydney skyline with opera house and harbor bridge, Rose Bay, Sydney, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Photo: Me and the Sydney skyline, Rose Bay, Sydney, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 704-249 Entry: Got up and Sofie had already gone out to take care of some Christmas shopping. I puttered around the house until she got back. We walked into the city center, then caught a ferry to Watsons Bay. Had a huge lunch which sort of went against the day's healthy motif, but what can you do? We spent a little over two hours walking back around the harbor's edge through the Nielson Park, Vaulcluse, and Rose Bay. From there Sof was getting blisters, and frankly I'd walked enough so we caught a taxi back to the house. Hung out a bit then went to meet Chris and David, a work friend of his at the nearby Paddington Inn pub for a few pints and diner. Continuing our good behavior, Sof and I made plans to swim early tomorrow moring.

December
15

Bayview, Australia
From Sydney via Whale Beach, NSW; and Avalon, NSW Found In: Entry: Sof knocked on the door at 7 and informed me that she wasn't up for swimming - which worked with the way I felt, so I went back to sleep. When I got up Sof was out so I puttered around trying to dump my journal and email to a disk, but it looks like my drive didn't survive the last flight. Sof and Chris gave me an incredible birthday present - a ticket for the BridgeClimb. It's a tour of the Sydney Harbor Bridge - and takes you up and over the arches. I'd been interested in doing it, but didn't think I'd be able to due to the fact that it has to be booked way in advance. Entry: When Sofie got back we hit the road. I quickly stopped in the internet cafe to send off some email with my phone number and adress. We drove an hour north along the coast to the Palm Beach area. We had an incredible lunch with an even more incredible view at a restaruatn overlooking Whale Beach. Spent the afternoon at the beach in Avalon. After we started to feel like maybe we'd had just a bit to much sun we headed for a the pub. We had a beer then decided that it could be a major night and made some phone calls to arange for a friend (Susie), to drive Chris up so Sof wouldn't have to drive home. They joined us at the pub then Lochy, another friend who lives nearby also joined us. We had planned on doing diner then heading back to Sydney, but after too much time in the pub, then a fantastic diner with good wine... well none of us were going to be driving home. Lochy droped us off at Susie's grandfather's house in Bay View and we crashed there for the night. A very nice birthday even with my parents getting confused and waking everybody up when they called at 3:45.

December
16

Sydney, Australia
From Bayview Found In: Entry: Up way to early. Caught a taxi back tot Susie's car, then she dropped us off at Chris and Sof's car. Very long drive back. At the house poor Chris and Sof had to rush off to work. I decided that if I went to bed the entire day was going to be shot so sat on the couch drinking water and trying to figure out my plans - then woke up over four hours later, still sitting there. Walked in to the city, had lunch, bought shoes, bought another guide book, wandered around and basically got lost - but now I'm starting to understand Sydney. Did some window shopping then hit the internet cafe on my way back. Entry: Chris was off with some work people until late so Sof an I got a pizza and rented a movie. Chris got back in time to watch the movie, and by the time the movie and diner was over I was finally starting to feel like I might live.

December
17

Sydney, Australia
Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: I got up early to go with Sof to put the car in for service. We dropped Chris off at work, then drove a couple hours north to Gosford on the Central Coast. The dealer gave us a loaner car and the plan had been to go spend the day at a beach. Unfortunately the weather was not cooperative - so we went out to breakfast. After breakfast we gave Sofie's grandmother a ride home and Sof showed me her and Chris' and her family's vacation homes. Entry: After picking up the car and driving back to Sydney we dropped by the internet cafe and I showed off some photos from Africa. Next up we went by the gym and I bought a temporary membership and then proceeded to kill myself - it's been a long time since I've lifted any weights. I did manage a sub (barely) seven minute 2K erg piece though. Entry: Susie met us at the gym and what we had planed as a take out diner and a video became a proper sit down diner. By the time we got home, fiddled around, and watched the video (What Dreams May Come) it was getting late. Unfortunate, since we'd been planning for and early night since we have to be up very early for the bridge climb.

December
18

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Up way to early. Everyone rushed around grumbling and trying to get ready. When I first woke up the weather was looking threatening, but by the time we left blue skies were starting to show through. Got down to the start on the South side of the harbor, and checked in - even had enough time for a cup of coffee. Preparation involved watching a short video, signing the expected releases, and an breathalyzer test! (We all blew zero - even Chris after his work Christmas party last night). We had to completely empty our pockets, take off watches, put on a cover all, and pass a metal detector before they'd let us get to the real equipment. The equipment consisted of a safety harness and a very clever device which clipped us to a cable (it rolled around the cable supports), and a radio. Entry: The bridge climb was awesome - even better than expected. You walk out under the south bridge deck to the start of the east side's center span. Then there's four flights of stairs up through the bridge deck - and between lanes of traffic - up on the the arch. The hike up the arch was as scenic as one could imagine with stunning view of the harbor, opera house, downtown, and the headlands - you could even see as far as Botany Bay! Near the top of the span there was a few drops of rain that made everyone nervous but it cleared pretty rapidly. At the top of the span we cut across a catwalk over the road to the west span - this was probably the scariest part of the walk, looking straight down to the road below. The walk back was on the other side of the bridge and not quite as spectacular. Entry: After the climb we went to the Australian - a hotel / pub with amazing pizzas (we had emu, kangaroo, chicken, and prawn pizzas - all excellent). After lunch and a few beers it was time for a much needed nap. Sof and Chris went off to a friends barbecue and crawled up to the internet cafe.

December
19

Sydney, Australia
Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Sof and Chris went off to do Christmas with Sof's sister Ingrid who is heading out of town. I lounged around the house a bit then Susie came over to entertain me. We debated what to do but the weather didn't leave many options and we finally decided to go get a beer and lunch and find a movie to see. Well that lunch and beer turned into a lunch and two beers followed by three at the pub downstairs. Then the afternoon turned into a mini pub crawl and the movie was forgotten. Andy joined us at the final resting place and Chris and Sof were going to but never quite made it. Finally staggered back to the house somehow. Didn't accomplish much today but it seemed a good way to spend a rainy Sunday.

December
20

Sydney, Australia
Found In:

Entry: Up reasonably early to go to the gym with Sofie. I was a little worried because I felt pretty good and I think I deserved a headache - when was it going to show up? The gym was not fun, but I felt pretty good afterwards. Sof and I had coffee, then went shopping - I'm making fajitas and margaritas for dinner tonight. Entry: Back at the house I made salsa so that it could age a bit before dinner. We hung out for a bit then decided to take advantage of the nice weather and walk down through the city to Darling Harbor and maybe see an Imax movie. Sof was still looking for a Christmas present so we went in to a number of shops on the way, and as we got near downtown it started to rain. Ended up abandoning the Darling Harbor idea and went in to a few shops in the city center before catching a taxi back to the house. Spent the rest of the afternoon watching the video of South Park. Entry: Chris got home, and Andy showed up. I made margaritas and chicken fajitas, Sof made guacamole and did most of the chopping. Diner was fantastic and Chris told me I could stay another week or two. After diner Any took off, Sof went to bed, and Chris and I settled down to finish off the final pitcher of margaritas.

December
21

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Sof spent the morning doing yard work - I helped her bag the mess, but mostly just supervised. We were going to go swimming but Susie dropped by with a bottle of wine. I abstained from the wine but gave in to a beer then a second... and swimming was forgotten. Sofie and Chris went to a birthday party while I went to the pub with Susie, Andy and Terrane (sp?). Ended up at the Padington Inn for dinner - I love the Caesar salads there.

December
22

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Hung out trying to get connected to the internet from home. After some success Sof and I went to the pool for a swim. I jumped in and started swimming while Sof laid out in the sun to warm up first. I managed 2,000 meters and it felt a lot better than last week - not surprisingly Sofie never made it into the water. Had lunch at the Padington Inn (variety is over rated). Spent a couple hours at the beach - one of the harbor beaches between Double Bay and Rose Bay. Back at the house I got back on the net and got the photo part of my journal working again (the large photos had been offline for the last month). Susie came by, and Chris got home and we walked up to the park to see an open air movie - one of my favorites, Big Wednesday. The picnic diner was excellent, and the movie (as always) was great.

December
23

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Slept in until Sof through me out because she wanted to clean the house without distractions. The weather was nice so I decided to walk into town and get a haircut. About halfway there Susie called me and asked if I wanted to stop for a beer with her and some friends. I agreed, but while walking to the pub (conveniently near where I was) I decided I'd just have a Coke since I'll probably be drinking plenty tonight. When I got there they'd already ordered a VB for me - oh well. That beer turned into two more before I realized that I hadn't even had breakfast yet! Got a ride the rest of the way into town. Entry: Down town was a nightmare. I went to the barber and there was a line so I went for lunch instead. After lunch checked the barber and the line was longer, did some shopping, checked again - even longer! I checked another shop which also had a long line and finally realized I needed to just sit down and wait. After an hour I finally got my hair cut. Went by a department store to pick up a package for Sof, and then by Centerpoint Mall to pick up one for Susie. By now it's getting late (all this time downtown and all I did was get my hair cut and battle the crowds to run errands for friends?!?) The traffic was hideous and the taxi cost twice what it should have (and probably took five times longer). Entry: Back at the house Sof had everything ready for the party. It was a blast. Tons of different kinds of people made for an enjoyable and interesting night. The food was great, the beer was cold, and there was enough entertainment to keep everyone amused - and everyone behaved themselves. Things wound down pretty early and I was in bed before one - but I was definitely aware that I was not going to feel good tomorrow.

December
24

Killcare, Australia
From Sydney Found In: Entry: Woke up and felt pretty good - which worried me, opened my eyes and felt ok, moved my head to see the clock - uh oh. Spent the next three or so hours trying to avoid moving my head. Finally crawled out of bed. After showering I went with Sof and met Chris downtown for a Chinese food lunch. The food helped a lot, but still not feeling great. Back at the house Sof and Chris took a nap and I tried to get caught up on my journal and email. In the evening we drove up to Sof's parent's holiday house in Killkare - the lack of traffic on the two hour drive was a pleasant surprise. At the house we had cold cuts for diner then relaxed and had a few margaritas with Sof's parents.

December
25

Killcare, Australia
Found In:

Entry: Christmas day. Breakfast of various treats - chocolates, cakes, etc. I got a Christmas card with a scratch lotto ticket in it and won eight dollars! Lounged around drinking Champaign then Sof and Chris went to Chris' family's Christmas. I went for a walk to the beach and along the shore of Bouddi National Park with Albert and Judy (Sof's parents). After the walk had a fantastic Christmas feat - turkey, chicken, many vegetables, and all topped off with Christmas pudding - though my piece didn't have any coins in it. Entry: Spent the afternoon hanging out talking then rested, called home, and worked on my Icon program. In the evening Chris and Sof came back and then Chris' parents and Laura (his sister) came by. Laura gave me an excellent Christmas present - a map of Sydney on a handkerchief! Chris, Albert and I spent a bit of time cleaning up the boat so it would be ready for skiing tomorrow. When Chris' family left we ate a bit of leftovers then had margaritas. Albert and I sat up late again finishing off the pitcher (made to much again...)

December
26

Jillaby, Australia
From Killcare Found In: Entry: Boxing Day. Susie woke us all up early - she apparently left Sydney at six to avoid traffic. Had huge breakfast of leftovers. Then went out water skiing. The conditions were horrible - white caps and cold. Chris went first and pt an admirable show on - he's a far better skier than I am. I went next and after three or four attempts actually managed to get up. It wasn't pretty but I glad to manage it at all. I couldn't believe how much the three or four minutes I spent skiing drained me! Chris got in again, but I wimped out on a second go and no one else would even try. Entry: Lounged around and had lunch. Drove north and inland to Susie's family friends out a farm. Hung out, looked for kangaroos, and had much silliness in the pool. Drank a lot, and had a huge, delicious diner. After diner learned a new card game, 500, and actually won. Started to feel stiff from the skiing - if I can feel it already the next couple days is not going to be pretty!

December
27

Blackhead (Hallidays Point), Australia
From Jillaby Found In: End Location: Blackhead (Hallidays Point), Australia

Entry: Woke up and could hardly move - I'm so sore that I move like I'm 90 years old! Had a huge breakfast then headed for Susie's Parent's holiday house out on the coast. It should have been a two hour drive, but ended up being nearly four and a half thanks to the hideous traffic. All the time sitting in the car wasn't kind to my back. Entry: At the beach house the weather took a nasty turn to rain. Tried to take the dog for a walk on the beach but gave up pretty quickly. Walked up to the bowling club to play the pokies (poker machines). Actually walked away $55 up! Spent the night playing cards ("Oh Hell" - a variation of 500), having dinner, and staying up late playing Balderdash.

December
28

Blackhead (Hallidays Point), Australia
Found In: End Location: Blackhead (Hallidays Point), Australia

Entry: Ugly day so we headed into a nearby town for pizza and a movie. Pizza Hut was a bit of a joke with everything taking forever (seating, silverware, the bill, etc.). Went and saw Toy Story 2 which was very good, but not as good as the first one. Back at the beach house went up to the bowling club and wasted a couple hours playing the pokies (lost back most of the money I won yesterday). After the club, had diner and watched the video Life of Brian then played Trivial Pursuit - except it was the children's edition, which shortened the game considerable and made for a pretty boring game.

December
29

Sydney, Australia
From Blackhead (Hallidays Point) Found In:

Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Overcast Entry: Back is finally starting to feel better. Woke up to mostly blue skies so we headed for the beach. Somewhat predictably it started to rain hard just after we got there. Back at the house I took a nap and then we packed for the drive back to Sydney. Entry: Back in the city Susie and I decided to watch Friends on tape - or rather I wanted to get caught up on the series and Susie agreed to borrow the tapes for me and watch them with me (I'm about three seasons behind now). We ordered Mexican take out (not stunning, but not bad), and watched eight episodes.

December
30

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Had a sleep in after such challenging TV viewing. Spent the afternoon wandering around Darling Harbor and doing some shopping downtown. Ended up buying a couple shirts (one for new years, one just because I liked it) and a couple pairs of board shorts (couldn't choose). Susie drove and we picked Chris up from work then when to diner at Beck's. It was the usual suspects (Chris, Sof, Susie, Rebecca) and some friends of theirs from Melbourne. Entry: After diner I got a chance to check email. Amazing news. My Seattle roommates Tim and Amy had a daughter! Watched four more episodes of Friends...

December
31

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Quickly checked up on my email. Then made some phone calls home. Talked to my ex-roommate Tim who had just got home from the hospital with Amy (his wife) and their new daughter Emily! It was nice to talk to them, and I'm very excited for them, but it left me feeling a very long way from home. Entry: Susie met us at the house and we walked to Kinselas - the bar Rebecca manages. Had a drink there and met up with the whole gang before walking to the party in Kings Cross. Got to the party at nine - just in time for the first set of fireworks. Entry: The first firework show was good, but nothing any different from shows I've seen before - luckily it was just an appetizer for the midnight show. The party was good. The music was horrible - too loud techno, but the food was good, there was plenty of drinks, and everyone was very friendly. I was still suffering a bit from homesickness so wasn't as in to it as I should have been. Entry: The fireworks were incredible, spectacular, impressive, and all the other words you could possibly use. The bridge, the Centerpoint tower, the opera house, and all the tallest building around the city center were the stage. The fireworks were supposed to be synchronized to music, but the DJ never stopped the pounding techno so we didn't hear any of it. The best part for me was a rainbow fountain that raced across the bridge spans while a cascade of fire fell from the bridge deck. Meanwhile a parade of giant fanciful creatures floated around the harbor. Entry: The fireworks lasted half an hour and ended with the word "Eternity" written across the bridge. The rest of the night Eternity blazed on the bridge and the parade on the harbor continued. I finally left around three for the longer seeming walk back. There were tons of taxis but they were all full - despite the fact that there's a $5 per person surcharge tonight. Chris and Sofie came in about half an hour afterwards. Chris was really hurting - not surprising considering that he'd been walking around the party sculling from a bottles of Moet Champagne. What was surprising was that Sofie got him home.

January, 2000

January
1

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Woke up with the expected hangover, but not as bad as it could be. Decided what I really needed was grease so made a Hungry Jack (Burger King)run for double Whoppers for Chris and I. Chris is really not doing well which is not surprising considering the rare form he was showing last night. Spent most of the day watching TV (including the ball dropping in New York). Walked to Fox Studios to catch a move - Inspector Gadget - I wasn't impressed, it was average at best. It was really weird when I realized as I was leaving the theater that as I was finally getting over my hangover most of my friends and family were just celebrating the new year! Entry: Sof and Chris had other guests coming for the night so I arranged to stay at Susie's and packed up. Had a bad Chinese takeout diner, then watched the video Two Hands.

January
2

Sydney, Australia
Found In:

Entry: After recovering yesterday today was a massive backslide. Spent the entire afternoon / evening touring the suburb of Balmain. Well, at least the pubs. We sort of did an impromptu pub crawl. It started out with Susie, James, Naomi, and I. Mel, Will, Donna, and Richard also joined us for different parts of it. The original goal was ten pubs, but half way through we thought we could do twelve or thirteen. We ended up making ten which was probably a good thing. The pubs we hit were (copied from the coaster I was keeping notes on): The London Hotel, The Dry Dock, The William Wallace, The Royal Oak, The Monkey Bar, Unity Hall, Town Hall, Dick's, The Exchange Hotel, and The Riverview Hotel.

January
3

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Not surprisingly I wasn't feeling a hundred percent this morning. But finally a sunny day! Spent the day at Bondi beach - along with half of Sydney. It was absolutely packed, but the water was fantastic and the it just felt great to lay in the sun. A fantastic afternoon though I did get a bit burned despite the sunscreen. Entry: Went to a pub with the rest of the crowd, but felt like I needed a day off (or rather my liver does) so I headed back to Paddington. Met Sof and Chris and many others at the Paddington Inn for another Caesar Salad then headed home to try to get caught up on email.

January
4

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: I was going to get out early and take care of a lot of errands. I sat down in the living room to quickly get caught up on my email and journal and ended up watching a couple DVDs - the Blair Witch Project (Scared the hell out of me), and Matrix (filmed in Sydney). When I finally left I headed for the pool walking. I stopped to buy a paper and checked out cars for sale - nothing interesting. Stopped at a book store to look for a New Zealand travel guide - failed. Also stopped at a travel agent to check on flights to Perth and New Zealand and transport options in New Zealand. Entry: While at the travel agent Susie called to say she was bored so I talked her into swimming. She picked me up and gave me a ride to the pool. After swimming (more a token effort than a workout) we went for Mexican food. Chris and Sofie called with some very exciting news. Entry: After diner went by the internet cafe. Steve just posted 16 more rolls of film - including at least some I've never seen before (mostly covering Southern and East Africa, but also including some from my visit home, Iceland, and Morocco). Click Here for my film index (the new rolls show a developed date of 01/02/00). Spent an hour looking at photos then went off for thoroughly undeserved dessert.

January
5

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Went to the American Express office to pick up some mail that's been waiting for me. Stacy had sent me both a birthday and a Christmas card. She had sent some silly (outrageous?) photos from Fantasy Fest in Key West, plus some little toys, and a star chart for the Southern hemisphere. It was a beautiful sunny day and it was strange that sitting in the sun reading the cards and looking at the pictures and toys made me feel so much closer to home. Whereas just a few days ago just talking to someone at home made me feel so far away. I'm not sure if it's the weather (sunny), or the situation (just a day vs. New Years Eve), or just that someone thought ahead to send them - but it was a nice feeling. Entry: Bought another paper to look at the cars available for sale. Nothing to exciting, but motivated me to go find out some details regarding legalities. Went looking for the automobile club, but of course they'd moved. While looking for them I found the RTA (Road and Transport Authority - equivalent to the DMV) and decided to wait in line to figure out what the particulars of buying a car as a foreigner are. While waiting for my number to come up I searched through the available pamphlets - found ones on importing a car, and on driving in Australia on a foreign license. Close, but not quite. When my turn came the woman looked at me strangely and said that anyone could buy a car - even a tourist, and that I should come back when I'd bought one. Ok, not so useful... Entry: I relaxed in the sun a bit more then went on a quest for a phone adapter (so I can use my device's modem in Australia without the long cable that I'm borrowing from Sof and Chris). Afterwards while walking around Sydney I walked by several cinemas. It turned out that one of them had End of Days starting in fifteen minutes. So I grabbed a quick lunch and went to the movies. It was a bit of a surprise - sort of a "12 Monkeys" meets "e;True Lies". Dark and interesting - not great, but not bad. Entry: I had a message from James (traveled with in Morocco in August '98), called him and tentatively arranged to have beers Friday evening. Walking home I decided to take a long cut through Darlinghurst and Kings Cross to check out the Car Market. This is a lot that only travelers (no locals) are allowed to sell from. The cars were predictably beat up, but it gave me an idea of prices and models - I suspect I'll be back a few times just to see what's made it. Walked back up to Paddington, stopping in the internet cafe. At the Internet cafe I set up a simple web page for the Windows CE software I've been writing (Here it is), checked email, and tried to look through the new photos some more. Spent a little longer than I'd planned, so opted to catch a bus back home. Of course being as confident and comfortable as I've become I caught the wrong bus - luckily realized quickly and got off a caught a correct one. Entry: Joined Chris and Sofie for dinner with Pipper and Rob. Dinner was, as always fantastic - especially the meringue and fruit dessert! After all the expected toasts to the future parents, a great meal, and several very complicated philosophical conversations, Pipper left and Sofie went to bed. Chris, Rob, and I sat up enjoying the wine and conversation. When Rob left Chris and I sat up even later and Chris showed off his wine cellar (philosophically and physically) over glasses of musket. Chris then tried to enlighten me (and failed) to cognac.

January
6

Sydney, Australia
Found In:

Entry: Set out for a walk into town. Bought a guide book for New Zealand. Then the internet cafe to look through the new photos. Met Susie and Chris in town for a beer a Circular Quay, then caught the Jet Cat across to Manly. Had a great diner at the Kiosk.

January
7

Sydney, Australia
Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Ugly rainy day. Spent most of it at the internet cafe looking at pictures. Also managed to drop off a roll of film to be developed. Entry: Met James (who I traveled with in Morocco the summer of 98) down at Circular Quay. Met up with friends of his and then moved to another bar. Ended up having great Spanish food for diner then everyone else was heading to a night club - I decided I was through and was on my way home. Andy, Belinda, and Suzy called me so I stopped in at Kinselas to say hi. Got home pretty much totally wrecked at about four.

January
8

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: After dragging my self out of bed all I wanted was to eat. But couldn't decide what. Finally really decided I wanted Lasagna and the quest began. Finally found a place with it on the menu - but they were out. Made do with what I could. Spent the rest of the day looking through the classified ads and searching on the net for used cars. Found a couple that I'll have a look at tomorrow. Back at home just sat and watched TV while getting caught up on my journal.

January
9

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Chris and I spent a few hours helping Laura (Chris' sister) move. She's leaving to travel for a month and moved all her stuff from her apartment back to their parents'. Had lunch with their mom, then back to Paddington. Picked up the roll of film I'd dropped off (nothing to exciting - though it included shots from Mauritius, Madagascar, Singapore, Bali, and a few from Australia). It's official though, my camera is having problems - it looks like any photos that involved the zoom lens came out blank - I'll have to decide whether to get this one repaired again, or to buy a new one. I'm tending towards buying a new one as I'd like something smaller (I replaced my old small camera - a Cannon Elph with a big Canon EOS). Entry: Susie volunteered to take me to look at cars. Stopped at the internet cafe to see if any new cars had been advertised in the Sydney Morning Herald - no new ones, but I still had my list from yesterday. Looked at a Subaru (weird noises, didn't feel right), a Toyota Hilux (liked it), and a Toyota 4 Runner (also liked it). The Hilux was a little scary because it's registered in Western Australia. It would be almost impossible to get it registered here in New South Wales, so I'd have to find an address to use in WA. On the plus side the guy who is selling it is a German and is heading for home in a few days so the price should come right down. It's been jacked up quite a bit and looks very rough, but also very tough. Entry: Went down to Bondi beach for a coffee with some friends, then called about the last car. The 4 Runner was also very interesting. My main concern with it was that it's a diesel, but after driving it it doesn't bother me. It's owned by an American Navel officer who's been over here on exchange and is heading back to the US next week - so he needs to sell as well. He wasn't there and his friend showed me the car so he'll call me tomorrow or Tuesday. There were a few things wrong with the 4 Runner - the driver side window didn't work and it was slow to start. Entry: Tried to call call about another car but failed to get through. Picked up salad fixings and a bottle of wine and headed back to the fantastic lasagna Sof had promised me. Went and saw the new Steve Martin / Eddie Murphy movie "Bowfinger" - it was silly, but very funny.

January
10

Jenolan Caves, NSW, Australia
From Sydney via Echo Point, Katoomba Found In: Stop: Echo Point, Katoomba, NSW, Australia Photo: Three Sisters, Echo Point, Katoomba, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Photo: View, Echo Point, Katoomba, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 618-109 Entry: Slept horribly last night - don't know why. Laid in bed until nearly noon trying to fall asleep before giving up. Decided on a day trip to the Blue Mountains despite the late start. The weather was nicer in the mountains and they are pretty - though not really much of a mountain range! Entry: On the road saw a car with a for sale sign on it. Called and the owner came out to show it to me. It's a 1980 Nissan Patrol and is in fantastic condition - looks almost new. It's a bit older than I wanted, a bit more expensive (talked the guy down to $4,500 Australian), and it's also a diesel but it drives well, and looks good, and I don't think it would loose any value. I liked it a lot more than everything else. It looks good and feels right, and I think it's tough enough to do what I want it to. After leaving I decided I should buy it, but being Sunday there's nothing I can do about getting hold of the money today anyway so I'll sleep on it. Entry: Drove through the center of the Blue Mountains National Park to Echo Point in Katoomba. The view is of a dramatic rock formation called the three sisters, and an unparalleled view down into the Jamison Valley and out over the national park. The second stop in Katoomba was the Scenic Railway. It was built in the 1880s for coal-mining and its 45° incline down to the floor is one of the steepest railway tracks in the world. Somehow we just walked on to the last train down and then back up. Since it was the last train we didn't get to explore the bottom at all, but on the plus side we didn't have to pay either! Entry: Decided to spend the night in the mountains so I could buy the car tomorrow - assuming it hasn't sold. Drove a few hours along the edge of Kanangra-Boyd National Park to Jenolan Cave - a small village at adjacent to some well known caves. The other advantage to staying here is that I'll get to see the caves tomorrow morning. The road approaching the village runs through a tunnel that is mostly natural cave! Stalactites and everything - amazing.

January
11

Sydney, Australia
From Jenolan Caves, NSW Found In: Photo: Kangaroo, Blue Mountains National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: My new car, Blue Mountains National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Kangaroo and joey, Blue Mountains National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Kangaroo and joey, Blue Mountains National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Me and car, Blue Mountains National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Entry: Called about the car and arranged to see it again this afternoon. Spent the morning looking around Jenolan Caves - though didn't go inside (no time). Went to the bank to deal with getting hold of a large enough amount of money to buy a car. Entry: Looked at the car again, drove it, still want it, negotiated down a little more, and bought it. I am now the proud owner of a big red 1980 Nissan Patrol. It's bigger and louder (diesel) than I'm used to, but it does feel right. Entry: Drove into Blue Mountains National Park and saw my first Kangaroos! Well the first non-roadkill ones. Entry: The drive back to Sydney was amazingly stressful. I was trying to follow Susie's car, through heavy traffic, in a much larger car than I've ever been used to, and on the wrong side of the road... I was a wreck by the time I finish parallel parking it in front of Chris and Sof's. One well needed beer turned into a few more undeserved ones. Besides a great Thai diner with some of the usual crowd (Dean, Susie, and Belinda) the rest of the night was tragic.

January
12

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Spent the day running around trying to find some tools and a shop manual. Found some tools and eventually a shop manual. Risked driving the car again and found I'm getting used to it. Ended up walking a lot farther than I thought when I forgot how far a few minutes in a car looking for a parking space can take you... Entry: Got my travel plans for Perth sorted out and bought a ticket. I'll be heading to Perth on the 26th of this month. Only staying a week, but that's my own fault for putting off buying the ticket so long. Entry: Rented a couple videos, "Addicted to Love", and "Ten Things I Hate About You" and had a quiet night at home. Both videos were pretty good, but I was surprised to find out that "Ten Things..." was filmed in Seattle... which was a pleasant surprise.

January
13

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: I was getting desperate so I finally forced myself to do laundry then sat around reading waiting for the first load to finish. Put in another load then finished off the morning by taking Zac (Sof's mom's dog that she's dog sitting) for a walk. Entry: Drove into the city and parked next to the Boy Charelton pool. I was planning on going for a swim, but by this time the lunch crowd was there. Ended up walking around, then having lunch in, the Royal Botanical Gardens. Went to NRMA (New South Wale's automobile club), joined and got some maps, but found out I can't transfer the title there. Walked down to the RTA and waited in line for an hour only to find out I need some proof of address. A bill, bank statement, or even a typed letter would do, but I don't have any of those so they gave me a form to have Chris or Sof fill out vouching for me. In short I'm going to have to come back and try again later. Entry: Bought a multi-meter so I can track down some minor electrical problems in my car ("my car" - that still sounds so weird). Nothing major, I've just got some lights out. Entry: Walked back to the car and motivated myself to go for a swim. Not much of a workout - only one kilometer, but it still felt good to do something. Spent some time tracking down the electrical problems - a cable to the left tail light had come undone, a headlight needs to be replaced, and the wires for one of the off-road lights and the license plate light are broken and need to be replaced. Felt good to solve all the problems I'd tackled! Entry: Spent a little time on the Internet to upload a week and a half's worth of journal entries. Tried to have diner at three pubs / restaurants before finally finding one that had room (The Four in Hand - Rebecca's dad's pub).

January
14

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Sof and Chris were out early so didn't get the paperwork to get the car registered. It's not a big deal since I have two weeks to get it done - it's just something I want to be done with. Spent the morning programming and reading. In the afternoon I went searching for the bits and pieces I need for my car. Found the local car parts place without a problem. Picked up some fuses and electrical wire, but they just looked blank when I wanted some twenty-four volt bulbs or a specific grade of diesel oil. They referred me to another auto shop, but I got lost and ended up at Bondi. By the time I found my way home I wasn't feeling motivated to drive any more so called it a day. Fixed the wiring of the off-road light (still doesn't work - need to get a new bulb) and pulled out the headlight to take in with me when I try again. I had noticed on the pink slip (the safety report that's needed to register a car) that one of the headlights had needed to be replaced. Well the one I pulled out seemed pretty new - and no wonder it was a twelve volt light! Obviously the guy couldn't find a twenty four volt headlight (or didn't want to pay for one) so stuck in a twelve volt one to just get through the inspection - annoying. Entry: Went to a barbecue at James and Robin's house. I traveled with James for a couple weeks in Morocco the first time I went there in '98. The last time I saw him was almost a year and a half ago in Essouria. The group of people was very friendly and was basically the same group from last week when I went out with him and Robin downtown.

January
15

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: I set out on a car parts quest. The first stop had been recommended to me - "Jap World" (so much for PC language here). They don't deal in Patrols, but referred me to another junk yard - "Tempe Tokyo" where they were able to supply me with a 24 volt headlight and refer me to an auto electrician where I got the off-road light. Spent the afternoon getting those in, then re-wiring the license plate light, now everything works! Entry: Spent some time working on a program then cleaned up to go meet the group at Kinselas. I was supposed to meet Dean (from Africa), but never got his call. When I called for my messages he had called and left a message, but for some reason it hadn't rang through to my phone. I decided to drive to Kinselas (because I can!) what would have taken me twenty minutes to walk took an hour in the car. I got to the right place, but while looking for parking got hopelessly lost. I finally ended up in the city center where I could find my way back from - but then I still had to find parking. Said hello to everyone, then immediately went out to get some food. The reason for being at Kinselas was to see a short film that a bunch of the people I've been hanging out with were in - I'd missed it, but there was going to be another showing so I rushed out for a bite to eat. I was going to go to Hungry Jack's (Burger King), but I got distracted by a small Indian Place which turned out to be excellent! Back at Kinselas saw the movie - funny if a bit crude then headed home early to watch the Australian classic "The Castle".

January
16

Sydney, Australia
Found In:

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain / Overcast Entry: Woke up to blue skies. Decided to go to the beach. Somewhat predictably (again!) by the time lunch had been gotten, a parking place found, and walked to the beach it was getting overcast. Made it through lunch (about twenty minutes) before it started to rain (just a few drops). Gave up and headed to the movies. Saw "Double Jeopardy" - I enjoyed it, but it wasn't fantastic. Entry: Met up with Laura, who I traveled with in Syria, at a bar in Kings Cross. Spent a few hours catching up and went back to her place to look at her photos from her trip and some recent paintings. She got back last August after two and a half years away from Australia. Her sister, Jean (also traveled with in Syria), is still on the road - in South America now!

January
17

Sydney, Australia
Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Since I didn't get as early as a start as I'd planned I decided to go to the RTA to take care of the car's title transfer in the late afternoon. I was going to go for a swim, but I just couldn't motivate with the rain so ended up sitting in the house finishing a program and setting up a web page so that it could be released (HiP, here's the web page). Entry: Drove down town and started the search for a parking place. Most of the streets downtown are no parking between three and six so this was quite a challenge. Started running out of time and was in danger of having the RTA close on me so I gave up and parked in a structure. Got to the RTA and my theory had worked, by coming so late there were no lines! Unfortunately didn't get the transfer done. My passport isn't good enough - they want a second form of ID, and my Washington State drivers licence doesn't qualify! It has to be a credit card or bankcard - both of which I left at the house today. So I spent my afternoon and A$14 on parking and didn't accomplish anything. This RTA bussiness is starting to seem like a soap opera, but I'll try again tomorrow on my way to Canberra. Entry: On my way home stopped at an Internet cafe to update my journal and put up the program and web page I worked on this morning. Back at the house I watched TV until Sof and Chris got home than we worked on a jigsaw puzzle - no the most exciting night, but strangely enjoyable.

January
18

Canberra, Australia
From Sydney Found In: Lodging: Kingston Hotel Entry: So once again I went to the RTA office again. Waited in line to get told that there might be a problem with the proof of address - despite having everything the last two people had wanted me to have (mail, a form signed by Sof, etc.). When I protested she talked to her manager and it was deemed enough. So I have gotten my cars title and registration transfered! Finally - Yea! Entry: Drove to Canberra - not to exciting, but managed to do it without getting to lost! Once I got out of the Sydney region the road was very uncrowded and I could zip along at 130 km/h. Still took me nearly four hours to get there. Checked into a shared room in a pub and headed out. Entry: Went to the National Gallery to see the Chihully / Hockney / ? (glass / painting / printers) show. Chihuly is a Seattle artist that has his studio directly across for where I used ot row. The show was pretty impressive and I enjoyed it - though an hour was plenty of time. Entry: Spent the evening wandering around the Manuka area - had Thai for diner then caught the movie "Holly Smoke" - which I thought was very good.

January
19

Sydney, Australia
From Canberra Found In:

Weather: Sunny / Rain Entry: Checked out then had breakfast at a cafe in Manuka. Drove up to check out the new Parliment house and ended up spending a couple hours wandering around and taking the tour. It's a very modern structure built into a hill in the center of Canberra. From the grassy roof (which you can walk over - supposedly symbolic for the people being put above the government) you can see how undeveloped the capitol still is. Entry: After leaving Parliment I wandered around the shore of Lake Burlry Griffin near the Captain Cook Memorial (a fountain that shoots a jet of water out of the lake a hundred fifty feet into the air). I tried to find the Australian War Memorial, but realized that I needed to get back on the road so I didn't get to see it. Entry: The drive home was unexciting - though very hot, making me realize that I do need to look in to getting my A/C fixed. I stopped midway and called my friends Dave and Megan who I haven't talked to in five years. My mom had just forwarded their christmas card with their new number on it. Dave wan't home, but it was a nice break in the drive to get caught up with Megan. As I drove back into Sydney is started to rain. Entry: Spent the evening at the outdoor cinema at the Royal Botanic Gardens. it was sponsered by Pettaras Press - Susie and Belinda's employers - so we ahd access to the free beer and food - excellent! Despite the sudden rain as I drove into Sydney it cleared up and the weather held for the showing, which was "Roman Holiday" - great, I don't think I've ever seen the whole thing through before. After the movie I managed to drop my phone down underneith the bleachers, but Nick Pataras (one of the bosses) had a flashlight and Belinda called it so I was able to climb down and find it. Finished off the evening at Kinselas.

January
20

Sydney, Australia
Via Wander Beach, Cronulla, NSW Found In: Entry: Had lunch at five ways with Dean and Susie. Dean had the afternoon free and it was a beautiful day (finally!) so we decided to head for the beach. Dean lives South of Sydney in Taren Point so we went down there to Wander beach (Cronulla - just past Botony Bay). For a beach that far out on a Thursday it was packed. Hung out there until we started to burn then went back to his house. Dean is a graphics designer so I played with his computers a bit (Macs, but no one is perfect). Picked out some photos to print out, then played around with some ideas for a new home page for my site. Entry: Had diner at Lone Stars, an "American Style" rib joint. Then went and saw the movie Stigmata.

January
21

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Hung out with Sofie all day. They had people at the house acid cleaning the tile so she couldn't leave. The fumes meant we couldn't hang out inside, so we sat out on the sidewalk with Ingrid (one of Sof's sisters) and talked and just hung out. After the workers finished with the acid we went inside and started working on the Hockney puzzle that I brought back from the National Gallery. This one's a bit more of a reach at five hundred plus pieces. Spent the afternoon evening doing the puzzle. Chris got home and helped us finish it then we all ordered pizza. Everyone else went to bed but I sat up and watched Sphere (should have skipped it) and worked on email - despite the fact that I'm supposed to get up early to go to wine tasting in the Hunter Valley tomorrow.

January
22

Bellbird (Cessnock), Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia
From Sydney via Rothbury Estate; McGuigan Cellars; Calais Estate / Little's Winery; Bimbadgen Estate / Terrace Vale; Pepper Tree; Scarborough Win Co.; and Tamburlaine Found In: Stop: Calais Estate / Little's Winery, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia Stop: Scarborough Win Co., Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia Stop: Tamburlaine, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia Entry: Up way to early for the drive to the Hunter Valley. Had a fell day tasting - managed to taste 45 wines from nine wineries. Some of the wines were fantastic - the biggest surprise was the Chambourcin from Calais Estate, I'd never tried one before. The first taste was a bit overpowering, but once I adjusted the rest of the glass was incredible. My other pick of the day was the Tawny Port from McGuigan Cellars. As it started to get late, found a room at a pub and crashed for a couple hours. Went out to a nice diner - but skipped the wine... Entry: Wineries and my favorite wines:

Rothbury Estate - Cabernet Merlot
McGuigan - Tawny Port
Calais - Chambourcin
Little's
Bimbadgen - Signature Shiraz, Non Vintage Port
Terrace Vale - Cabernet Merlot
Pepper Tree - Reserve Malbec
Scarborough
Tamburlaine - Merlot / Cabernet

January
23

Sydney, Australia
From Bellbird (Cessnock), Hunter Valley, NSW via Peterson House, Hunter Valley, NSW; Calais Estate, Hunter Valley, NSW; Petersons, Hunter Valley, NSW; Briar Ridge Vineyard, Hunter Valley, NSW; Saddler's Creek, Hunter Valley, NSW; Capercaillie, Hunter Valley, NSW; and Brokenwood Wines, Hunter Valley, NSW Found In: Stop: Briar Ridge Vineyard, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia Stop: Brokenwood Wines, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia

Weather: Sunny / Mostly Sunny / Rain Photo: Vineyard, Petersons, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-446 Photo: Vineyard, Petersons, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-446 Entry: The plan was to go back to Calais to pick up a couple bottles of the Chambourcin that I enjoyed so much yesterday. On the way stopped and tried just one more winery - Peterson House. After Calais decided there was time for one more that was recommended, Petersons. Petersons was so fantastic that I decided to send a case home - which meant that I had to go buy a selection of wines from other wineries. So there were 23 more wines from five new wineries tasted, way to much money spent on wine and shipping, and got home six hours later than planed. Final counts for yesterday and today - 69 wines from fourteen wineries. Entry: Today's wineries and my favorite wines:

Peterson House
Calais Estate - Chambourcin
Petersons - Back Block Shiraz
Briar Ridge - Old Vines Shiraz
Saddlers Creek - Equus Hunter Shiraz
Capercaillie - Orange Highlands Merlot
Brookenwood - Cricket Pitch Cabernet Sauvignon / Cabernet Franc / Shiraz / Merlot, Mistress Block Shiraz

Entry: Back in Sydney I spent some time in an internet cafe updating my journal, selecting photos to print out before leaving, and just surfing around. Stopped at a bookstore to look at travel guides (this is turning out to be one of my favorite pastime). Sof and Chris are away at Killcare for a few days so I finished off the night on my own with Indian takeout and a video (Blues Brothers 2000 - should have skipped it). Walking back to Sof and Chris' it suddenly started to rain - and me with only a $100 bill - no taxi's going to break that. Scrounged enough change to get me most of the way back then got soaked walking the last few blocks - I have no idea where the rain came from.

January
24

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Waited around for Susie to lead me to the mechanic. Dropped the car off, then went for lunch at the Lord Nelson Hotel (my first Australian micro-brewery). Susie had to go back to work, so I hang out in New Town at an Internet cafe going through photos. Picked up the car a few hours later - it needs new bearing on the left rear axle - it's loosing oil, and the brake cylinders on the same wheel are leaking brake fluid both of which have saturated the shoes so they also need to be replaced - there goes A$ 350+, and he hasn't even looked at the A/C yet. Arranged to drop the car off in the morning.

January
25

Sydney, Australia
Found In: Entry: Woke up last night with a horrible sore throat - this morning it's turning in to a full blown cold. Due to not feeling so good I was a little slow and got the car to the mechanic 45 minutes late. He's packed, and he's not sure if he can get to it today. Since this is one of my last business days in Sydney I'd rather not leave the car all day so I offer to leave it with him tomorrow for the week while I'm in Perth. Entry: Go to the Internet cafe to look at more photos and end up buying a new camera and a lens for my old camera. Decided to buy a new compact camera since my Minolta need to be repaired again - I wanted a smaller one anyway (went with the Minolta Vectis 2000) also ordered a new lens for my EOS - it's the same zoom lens that I already have (75-300mm), except with the new image stabilization feature. I decided it was justified since I'm going back to Africa. Entry: Had lunch at the Paddington Inn and was dismayed to find out the the chicken caesar is no longer on the menu. Went on a quest for a hardware store or lumber yard that would cut wood to order. Finally found one out in Bondi junction and had a piece of particle board cut to fit over the luggage area in my car so that you can't see what's there. Did some other shopping, and bought a tool box, and a lighter adapter for my phone. Entry: Spent the rest of the day packing for the first time in two months. Didn't do a complete packs since I decided to leave some stuff with Sof and Chris. Had diner with Dean, then dropped my car off, and got a ride with Dean. Stayed at Dean's, and ended up staying up until after four playing computer. But got all the photos I want to print sorted out - all 100+ rolls! Actually finished that shortly after one, then accidentally deleted nearly half the selections and had to start over.

January
26

Margaret River, WA, Australia
From Sydney via Perth Airport Found In: Lodging: Surf Point Lodge Entry: Painfully early morning, the flight wasn't to bad except for a very rough landing. At the airport I tried to get hold of Stew and Kate (met them in Sydney a few days before Christmas), but they weren't around. I got the book out, thought about different plans, and decided to rent a car and go down to Margaret River. Tomorrow and Friday I can spend at the beach or wine tasting then come back to Perth Friday night for the weekend. I got a very weird car - it's a Toyota Echo - absolutely tiny, and the dash board is in the middle of the car! Entry: About half way to Margaret River (about two hours in) I got the major nods and couldn't keep my eyes open - pulled off on a dirt track, drove 100m, then stopped to take a nap. Slept for nearly an hour before the heat got to be to much. Got to the place I wanted to stay at about 5:30. LP describes it as being on the beach - sort of near the beach would be more accurate (~10 minute walk), and the "great atmosphere" is completely missing. It's very nice for a hostel, but completely sterile. Walked down to the beach to check out the surf - absolutely flat. But it's a gorgeous beach, and the walk is through a mangrove forest. Entry: I was going to go home, take a shower, and head out for diner and a bar (it's Australia Day). However, after the shower I just couldn't motivate between being slammed by this cold and to little sleep I decided to skip diner and partying. It's kind of ironic that this is the first Australia Day that I've missed since leaving home - and I'm actually in Australia!

January
27

Margaret River, WA, Australia
Via Redgate Wines, Margaret River; Voyager Estate, Margaret River; Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River; Vasse Felix, Margaret River; Gralyn Cellars, Margaret River; Ribbon Vale, Margaret River; Pierro, Margaret River; and Gnarabup Beach, Margaret River Found In: Stop: Redgate Wines, Margaret River, WA, Australia Stop: Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River, WA, Australia Lodging: Surf Point Lodge Photo: Xanadu vineyard, Margaret River, WA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Entry: Drove into town and wandered around - it's very sleepy. Had lunch, then decided to go look at one of the caves (this are has four or five caves with tours). On the way I decided to stop at a winery I was passing. The wines were excellent and I decided to see a few more wineries. I ended up tasting a total of 27 wines from eight wineries - and I didn't see a cave. The wines here seem more mature, and well better, than those found in the Hunter Valley. But the wineries are a lot more flash, pretentious, and not nearly as friendly, plus on average the wines cost quite a bit more. Entry: Here are the wineries I visited today:

Chateau Xanadu
Redgate Wines
Voyager Estate
Leeuwin Estate
Vasse Felix (My favorite)
Gralyn Cellars
Ribbon Vale
Pierro

Entry: After tasting I spent the rest of the afternoon on the beach swimming, sunning, and reading. Watched the sunset then went back to the hostel. Ended up watching the Australian Open on TV (Aggassi beat Sampers).

January
28

Perth, WA, Australia
From Margaret River Found In: Entry: Stopped in downtown Margaret River for a (very) early lunch - thinking that I shouldn't wine taste on an empty stomach, especially when I have several hundred kilometers to drive. On my way north I decided not to do any tasting. One, I just wasn't that excited by the idea; and two, I thought it might be better to take the morning / afternoon off since I'll probably be drinking with Kate and Stew (Met in Sydney a few days before Christmas, then again in Jillaby a few days after) tonight and this weekend. Entry: Drove on up to Perth and with remarkably little effort managed to get in to town and park (how different from Sydney!) Wandered around Perth - everything seems so quiet and relaxed. Spent some time on the internet checking up on email. Called Kate and Stew and then went to sit down and have a soda while waiting for them to call back. Stew called, and we met at a downtown pub for a few beers. Stew announced that he'd just bought a case of Kilkenny, but he didn't have any glasses to drink it from - so we ended up "acquiring" four proper pint glasses from the pub. Drove back to their house and hung out a bit before heading out for a beer at an Irish pub and then diner at a nice restaurant.

January
29

Perth, WA, Australia
Via Cottesloe Beach; and Freemantle Found In: Entry: Susie is coming in for the weekend so I went with Stew to the airport so I could drop the rental car off. Unfortunately it turns out that she was coming in the international terminal which is very far away, basically a different airport. So I had to wait for them to come pick me up. Entry: Spent the morning at the beach (Cottesloe ), then had a pub lunch across the street). Spent the afternoon in Freemantle wandering around the public market and waterfront stores. Entry: Back at Kate and Stew's place I settled down for a rest - my cold has gotten really bad and it hurts to talk. So of course I was in rare form for the diner party that Kate and Stew hosted. Some friends of theirs, Collin and Kara joined us. The diner was fantastic (a crab pasta entree, lamb tajine for the main, chocolate mouse for desert, and eight bottles of wine for entertainment). Actually the wine, and especially the port, really soothed my throat.

January
30

Perth, WA, Australia
Via Freemantle Found In:

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain Entry: It was a beautiful day with lots of clouds it was a little cooler, but still plenty hot for the beach (Leighten beach today). Spent a few hours laying in the sun and frolicking in the water. Went back into Freemantle for a big seafood lunch on the warf. On the way home we stopped at a little store to buy flowers and ended up buying way too much chocolate. I ended up with bag of chocolate covered coffee beans - and ate the entire thing! We went home to watch the video "Under the Lighthouse Dancing" - it was filmed on Rottnest island, and we're going there tomorrow. While we were watching the movie huge drops of rain started to thunder down - not boding well for tomorrows adventure.

January
31

Perth, WA, Australia
Via Freemantle; Thompson Bay, Rottnest Island; Little Armstrong, Rottnest Island; Thompson Bay, Rottnest Island; and Freemantle Found In: Photo: Misc photos at pub waiting for sunset, Cottesloe, WA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: Misc photos at pub waiting for sunset, Cottesloe, WA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Photo: Misc photos at pub waiting for sunset, Cottesloe, WA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Photo: Misc photos at pub waiting for sunset, Cottesloe, WA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Photo: Misc photos at pub waiting for sunset, Cottesloe, WA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Photo: Misc photos at pub waiting for sunset, Cottesloe, WA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Entry: Didn't catch the 7:30 ferry as planned due to the rain. But by eight the skies had cleared and it was looking like ideal weather, so we were on the 9:30 ferry from Freemantle. Got to Rottnest Island around ten and rented snorkel gear and bicycles. Entry: There's not much in the way of hills on the island, but enough to quickly make us wish we'd opted to pay the extra $3 for multi-geared bikes. Road about a third of the way around the island before stopping to swim and snorkel at ?. The visibility and sea life weren't spectacular, but it was a beautiful sandy cove and the water was electric blue. Entry: After hanging out for a couple hours we got back on the bikes and cut across the island to the other side. In the middle we stopped under a light house to watch a group of quokkas. The island was named "Rat's nest" because of the giant rat like things. Actually they look more like a cross between a kangaroo and a wallaby. They're obviously used to being fed because we were swarmed when we stopped. Entry: On the other side of the island we stopped to snorkel at Little Armstrong Cove. The life was more interesting here, but the visibility was poor (5 to 10 feet), and the water was pretty rough. I only spent a few minutes in the water before giving up the mask. About half an hour after getting out a large ray swam along the edge of the beach checking everyone out. It had a wing span of three or four feet and was beautiful. When I waded in to get a closer look it let me get within a few feet before taking off. I jumped out and followed him on the rocks a bit before returning to the sand. Entry: Road the rest of the way back to Thompson Bay where the ferry dock is. Turned in the rented gear and settled down for a few beers then a late lunch. Caught the last ferry back at 5:30. Got on the ferry a few minutes before departure then I realized I didn't have my sunglasses. Ran back to the restaurant, no luck. Barely made it back to the ferry. It's not a big deal, but it put me in a crap mood. Somewhat amazingly (for me) this is the first time since I've started traveling that I've lost a pair of glasses - and the first time that I haven't been carry a spare pair. Entry: Back in Freemantle we went to a pub to watch the sun set. It was beautiful, not a lot of red fire, but lot's of gold, and the light clouds made for a big show.

February, 2000

February
1

Perth, WA, Australia
Found In: Entry: Went in to Perth with Kate and Susie. On the way in I got a call from the FedEx people - my new camera and lens have arrived! Unfortunately in order to avoid $300 in customs I have to fax them a copy of my passport and a ticket out of the country - the later of which I don't have yet, so I can't get my camera until I get my New Zealand tickets worked out. In town, the girls went shopping, while I went to the internet cafe and found some replacement sunglasses on the net. Also got the last ten days of journal entries uploaded. Entry: Met up with Kate and Susie and we had lunch at a great place (great food, really pretentious 80's decor) on the Swan river. After lunch I went to a travel agent and started working on the specifics of my trip to New Zealand. Also started looking into my flight to Africa late next June, plus just to really challenge the guy I checked up on Antarctica trips (unfortunately they leave from Argentina, not New Zealand). After I finished torturing the travel agent I met up with Kate, Stew, and Stew and a pub. After many beers we picked up a bottle of wine and a six pack of beer and headed home for a great T-bone diner.

February
2

Sydney, NSW, Australia
From Perth, WA Found In: Entry: I spent the morning packing and writing email to friends warning that I'm going to be in the neighborhood soon. Met up with the girls and Stew in downtown Perth for lunch, then caught a taxi to the airport. Lost three hours on the plane, so by the time I got my bags collected in Sydney it was late.

February
3

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Picked up my car - supposedly all ready to go. The rear brake shoes and one of the wheel bearings have been replaced, the air filter oiled (?) and replaced, and the air-conditioning charged. Everything seems to work fine (even the A/C - this would be my first car with A/C!), of course for over over A$ 700 (US $500) it had better. The mechanic tells me that as long as I take it easy it will go for ever. Entry: Went by the travel agent to buy my ticket for New Zealand. This is just something I need to get organized soon, and I want to get it done now so that I can get the camera and lens I ordered through customs. I knew exactly what I wanted, when I wanted to go, and how much it should cost (this is the fourth time I've talked to a travel agent about this) - yet it still took more than an hour and a half to get the ticket bought! Lucky that I had talked to other agents, because this one really didn't know what was available and had to keep calling the airline to verify what I said! I should have gone to another agent (this was STA), but I needed to get the ticket now. Unfortunately they couldn't issue the ticket until tomorrow so I faxed a copy of my itinerary and passport to the shipping people and told them I could show them the actual ticket tomorrow. Entry: Met up with Dean (the guy I traveled with in Africa for nearly seven months) in Drummoyne. Had a few beers at his house and looked at the photos he had. Then we headed for his local pub and it got ugly. We got there minutes after the kitchen closed and decided we'd eat afterwards. The first couple rounds went as expected, but then Dean decided we couldn't get together without having tequila, and from there we went to a truly evil mixture called an illusion. I don't remember the walk home, I don't remember getting a couple bottles of wine out of my car, I don't remember his neighbors coming over to complain about the noise. I remember the pub closing then the next and last thing I remember is being violently ill in Dean's bathroom. Not entirely a pleasant night.

February
4

Newport, NSW, Australia
From Sydney Found In: Lodging: The Quinkin Photo: Me, The Tekin, Newport, NSW, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 785-991 Entry: Worst hangover ever. Woke up in a room that I'd never seen before. Luckily it turned out to be in Dean's apartment since I don't remember getting home last last night! Spent the morning unable to keep anything down - even water. Picked up my tickets to New Zealand in town, then called the shippers only to find out that they had cleared the package and sent it out to be delivered - despite me having arranged to pick it up from them. So it looks like I probably won't get my new toys until next week. Entry: Headed North to Pitwater to pick up the sailboats. Around 4:30 I finally managed to keep some food down and started to think I might live. Entry: The boats (the Quinkin and the Tekin) are huge - and a lot nicer than I was expecting. They're big catamarans (33 feet) - quite roomy and comfortable. Everyone else (our boat, Quinkin: Dean, Belinda, Susie, James and Naiomi; the other boat, Tekin: Chris, Sof, Adam, Anne Marie, and Stephan) was drinking heavily - I abstained and was fairly proud of myself for being able to watch the others without loosing it. Entry: Chris and Sof brought me my new toys that had arrived from New York - they had gotten to the house today, and Sof had been home. A new compact camera to replace my current one (which is starting to act up) and a new lens for my Canon EOS. The lens is a duplicate of my current zoom lens, except it has the new active image stabilization stuff built in - it's incredible.

February
5

Coasta Retreat (The Basin), Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
From Newport Found In: End Location: Coasta Retreat (The Basin), Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia Lodging: The Quinkin Photo: The boys having lunch, The Basin, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 785-991 Photo: The boys having lunch, The Basin, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 785-991 Photo: The bay, The Basin, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 785-991 Entry: Woke up and was a little surprised that I had survived. Went for a swim, then rowed back to the marina to pick up more ice. Andy showed up while Sof headed for home (both on the other boat). Motored the boats up to the night's destination - a place called the Basin. Entry: After a couple hours frolicking in the water there, a hired skipper showed up and both crews piled on to the Quinkin for some sailing. Spent the next three hours cruising - not the best wind and somewhat rough so it wasn't all that great. In fact the main excitement was when Chris caught a speed boat while trolling off the back of the boat. He yelled and screamed but they just waved back and went flying away - I was pretty impressed with how quickly Chris managed to cut his line thus saving his rod and reel! Entry: Back at the basin we had a late lunch. The boys (and our "professional skipper") sat in the life rings in the warm water with a beer in one hand and lunch in the other. The girls tried to pretend they didn't know us. A group of us swam to shore to check out the shark netted swim area and campground in the National Park (Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park - apparently the same park that Skippy is from). It was low tide so the swimming area was less than impressive and actually looked a little rank. Entry: Had a great diner, played some Uno, and then had a surprise party for Anne-Marie's birthday. As we were getting ready to go to bed it started to get very rough. The two boats were rafted together causing the swells to be very jerky (they yanked at each other as one started to go down or up). Then the wind picked up. Got out of bed to see about moving the Quinkin to it's own mooring, but the basin looked full from the boat and it didn't seem like a good idea to risk looking in the dark in the little plastic row boat we have as a tender - and we didn't want to risk looking in the Quinkin because the wind meant it would be really difficult to re-raft if we couldn't find a mooring. It was a very uncomfortable night and I didn't get much sleep.

February
6

Refuge Bay, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
From Coasta Retreat (The Basin) Found In: End Location: Refuge Bay, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia

Weather: Rain Lodging: The Quinkin Photo: Shore and crew, Refuge Beach, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: Shore and crew, Refuge Beach, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 876-083 Photo: The Quinkin from shore, Refuge Beach, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 785-991 Photo: Waterfall, Refuge Beach, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 785-991 Photo: Group photo, The Quinkin, Refuge Bay, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, NSW, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 785-991 Entry: Really didn't get much sleep last night - feels like none. Tried to continue sleeping when the boat powered up and got moving. The engine was just the other side of the hull to me so it was very loud - even so I still think I got more sleep in the two hours we motored than the night before. We stopped to get water and ice and pick up Tim (another member for our crew) in Akuna Bay. Dean and I got left behind on the dock and had to get a ride out on the Tekin. Once we were on the water they decided we couldn't get across so we'd have to stay on the other boat until we moored - we were about four feet apart when this was decided. I didn't have my book, clothes, or any toys so I decided to swim across - and did it despite them trying to get away. Entry: We headed back the way we'd come (towards the end of the peninsula), and stopped for lunch a couple hours later in Yeomans Bays. Several people fished - and caught lots of fish but nothing even close to keeper size. We continued on to Refuge Bay, while the Tekin returned to Akuna to drop off Dean, Adam, and Andy. We found a moorage right off a beautiful little beach with a waterfall. Rowed ashore to play on the beach. The Tekin showed up with its reduced crew (Chris, Stephan and Anne-Marie) and rafted with us. We had a huge combined diner trying to use all the food left.

February
7

Sydney, NSW, Australia
From Refuge Bay, Cambert Peninsula, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park Found In: Photo: James, Naiomi, Belinda, Tim, and I, Quinkin, Pitwater sound, NSW, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 785-991 Entry: Spent the morning on a huge breakfast (another effort to get rid of the remaining food) and swimming in the beautiful water. Around noon headed back towards the marina. We had a nice breeze and sailed most of the way back - the first sailing we'd risked on our own. Back at the Marina we packed up, cleaned up, and went for a beer at the Newport Arms (same place that Sof and I went drinking on my birthday). At home went over to Susie's to have diner and watch the first episode of "Friends" of the season. After diner went and hung out with Sof and Chris before getting my remaining gear organized.

February
8

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Spent the day doing my final preparations. Spent some time at Kmart - bought a crate to fit in the back of the car, some tools, and a tarp. Set up the car - installed the wood I had cut across the back area then spent the rest of the day packing (I hate packing...). Had a fantastic diner at Grappa.

February
9

Canberra, ACT, Australia
From Sydney, NSW Found In: Lodging: Kingston Hotel Entry: Got up in the morning and did some last minute shopping for camping gear - bought a cooler, sleeping pad, and most importantly a mosquito net. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to need a new stereo in the car since the one I have doesn't play tapes loud enough for me to hear over the engine - and most of my drive is going to be outside the range of radio - so I did some stereo shopping, but I couldn't find anything that was interesting at a price I wanted to pay. Entry: Had lunch with Susie - we were going to go to this great Thai restaurant that I've been trying to go to since I got to Sydney (It's been closed most of the time), but they weren't open for lunch so we ended up at her local pub. Did my final bit of packing and loaded up the car. Ended up leaving later than planned (3:45) and had to deal with bad traffic out of the Sydney suburbs. The first 50 kilometers took the same as the last 250. My car seems to be running hot and I stopped to let it cool down about 45 min out of Canberra - I'm a little worried about that. The bad news is that my air-conditioning quit - less than a week after paying nearly A$ 200 to have it charged it's dry - it must leak, and now I'm going to have to decide whether to get it fixed or not. Entry: Got a bed at the same backpackers I stayed at last time. Met up with Alex and had diner - weird to see her almost exactly two years later (Czech Republic February '98). She's taken a year off school and is getting ready to go to South America. Talked and had diner and a few beers, then went back to my room to read. I should be making plans for tomorrow - I don't even know where I am going, but I just can't be bothered.

February
10

Bega, NSW, Australia
From Canberra, ACT via Narooma; Bermagui; and Middle Beach, Mimosa Rocks National Park Found In: Route: Car: Kings Highway (52), Princess Highway (1), Tourist Route 9, Princess Highway Entry: Went to the Australian War Memorial. From the outside it is suitably monumental. I almost didn't go in, but decided I wasn't in a hurry. From the inside it's seems a lot larger. It's a well done multimedia display with lots of artifacts from various wars. Entry: I don't like war museums. I think it's that I don't like to be reminded how weak civilization really is. It was so easy to look at the faces of the people in the hall of heroes - and so hard to imagine doing what they did. Yet if I'd been born at a slightly different time... These kind of things always depress me (Dachau left me in a funk for several days) but this was the first time I had tears in my eyes. I couldn't even begin to say why exactly, and it feels so inadequate to say I was sad - but I that's the best I can do. I wish I'd sat down and wrote what was in my mind immediately after leaving. It seemed like I understood a lot and it was definitely philosophical - yet all I can remember now is how important those thoughts seemed. Entry: The drive from Canberra to the coast was an awesome surprise. The road wound out of the mountains through spectacular forests of giant trees and ferns with teasing glimpses of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The road was very steep with hairpin turns - slow going, but that was good, more time to enjoy it. Entry: At the coast I turned on to the Princess Highway and followed the coast south. I was thinking of staying in Narooma because the guide book said the diving was good and I thought maybe I could get out tomorrow morning. Unfortunately at the dive shop I was told that tomorrow's dives had just been cancelled because the seas were picking up. So then I thought I'd drive to Bermagui and spend the rest of the day at the beach. But when I got there the beaches though beautiful looked unfriendly. It was windy and the water was choppy, so I moved on again. Entry: I took the scenic route out of town. The road is only about half paved, but there were some fantastic long stretches of beach just south of Bermaui and in Biamanga National Park. I got out a couple times to look around, but the water always looked foreboding and in the heat (35°C - 95°F) I wanted to go someplace where I could swim. In Mimosa national Park I was exploring a dirt road up to a ridge and got stuck for the first time - luckily the four wheel drive performs as it's supposed to - so no dramas. Near the southern edge of the park I stopped at Middle Beach. It was still choppy, and the beach was relatively crowded (I could see three surfers and a couple a kilometer down the beach) but I decided to get wet. Spent a couple hours on the beach relaxing while repeatedly getting wet and drying off in the sun. It was great, I think tomorrow I'll plan on driving all day, but stopping frequently to enjoy the beaches. Stayed at an unexciting YHA in Bega.

February
11

Morwell, Vic, Australia
From Bega, NSW via East Cape Conran; and Lake Entrance Found In: Route: Car: Princess Highway (1, A1), C107, Princess Highway (A1, M1)

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain / Overcast Lodging: Coal Valley Inn Entry: It was supposed to be even hotter today and I was kind of dreading it. But woke up to sunny blue skies with a nice cooling breeze. The remaining bit of road in New South Wales (down through Eden) was pretty, but unexciting - mostly farms. As I crossed into the state of Victoria the sky started to cloud over, and shortly it was raining - so much for my plans to beach hop today. The highway was beautifully wooded and in quick succession passed through several national parks (Croajingolong, Alfred, Lind, and Errinondra). I had hoped to camp somewhere tonight, but with the weather I decided to make a run for Melbourne. Entry: Despite the weather and the long road in front of me I decided to take the scenic route out to Cape Conran. It was beautiful and completely deserted. At the cape itself the beach stretched off to the east as far as I could see and not a single sign of humans. To the west the east side of the cape jutted out. It was heavily wooded but I could see what surely would be a beautiful and thrilling hike along a boardwalk built near the bottom of the cliffs. I debated doing the hike, but even the few minutes I'd been on the beach had left me completely soaked and it was starting to get colder. Entry: The next few hours were unexciting, but pleasant. The lack of traffic and winding roads make for great motoring. The only downfall was the loudness of the engine and the lack of radio reception. I stopped at an auto parts store in Bairnsdale to buy some oil and started looking at stereos, they referred me to another store down the street and after a lot of questions a debating I bought a new stereo. Installed it myself on the side of the street and my music problems are solved. This one isn't that much louder, but it's the difference of being able to hear my player and not - a huge improvement, and it sounds good! Entry: Started getting nervous about driving when I saw a few kangaroos around the side of the road, and in Sale I decided that I wasn't going to make it to Melbourne tonight. Talked to my friend Sarah (hung out and traveled with in New Orleans in May '97) who is having a party in Melbourne tomorrow and got directions to her house. Started looking for a place to stay and several towns later found a hotel in Moe - but it was full. The manager told me there is a truck show a couple towns west and pretty much all the hotels between Moe and Melbourne would be booked out because of it. He gave me directions for a couple hotels in the previous towns. Found a room my second try fifteen minutes back on the road.

February
12

Melbourne, Vic, Australia
From Morwell via Mad Dog Winery, Warragul Found In: Stop: Mad Dog Winery, Warragul, Vic, Australia Route: Car: Princess Highway (A1) Entry: Started the drive towards Melbourne. I wasn't in any hurry, so stopped at Mad Dog Winery - I just saw the sign on the road. It was very small, run my a husband and wife team. They had four big dogs who just wanted to play with anyone. They both seemed very surprised to have an American at their winery. It was definitely very friendly and the wines interesting and good if not great. I ended up buying a bottle of their Pinot and a wine glass. Entry: When I got into Melbourne I drove around until I got into he downtown area - and found a parking space. The city is actually very easy to drive in, except for the trolleys. Called Sarah and then wandered around downtown Melbourne. It is so reminiscent of Portland that at least once I thought that's where I was. It might be just relative (I.E. Melbourne is to Sydney like Portland is to Seattle), but I think it's more than that - the river, the look / feel / style, and even the people. I browsed a couple camera shops (I need to sell my old lens) and some bookstores, then jumped on the internet for a half hour to update my journal. Entry: Found my way to Sarah and John's house. Hung out and talked with Sarah (met in New Orleans May '97). When they got home, I got introduced to John and his friend Justin. The guys made a beer run for tonight's party (I got Matilda Bay Bitter, Coopers Dark Ale, and Abbottsford Invalid Stout). Entry: While we were hanging out waiting for the party to start, Karen (Met in Petra, Jordan April '98 - and hung out with in London a few times) called. I'd sent her email a yesterday, and it turns out that her, Jodie, and Meredith (all from Jordan) are in Melbourne at the moment so we're going to try to meet up tomorrow! The party was really nice, lots of interesting people and great food. Late in the night the margaritas came out - I am proud to say not my idea, but that's what's going to doom me tomorrow!

February
13

Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Found In: Entry: Woke up feeling not so good, and went back to sleep. Repeated this several times and finally got out of bed around noon - but not feeling to bad. Got hold of Karen and arranged to meet them in St. Kilda (a suburb on the south side of the river). There's a huge festival going on in St. Kilda so parking was going to be scarce. Sarah volunteer to give me a ride, but we as we got near the traffic got so horrible that I decided it would be quicker to walk and got out of the car. Entry: Somewhat miraculously I managed to meet up with Karen, Jodie (both Jordan April '98), Jodie's fiancé Paul (met London, May '98), and some friends of theirs. Spent the afternoon / evening at the festival. Watched (actually listened to) a couple live bands (one very good - Dead Star, one very bad - don't remember their name). Hiked back to the tram line to get back to Sarah and John's place, and ended up just missing the tram. Decided to catch a cab rather than wait the 35 minutes for the next tram. Had a great steak diner then sat around and started the great Mac Guigans bottle bottle of port that I bought in the Hunter Valley.

February
14

Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Found In: Entry: Got up slightly motivated so decided to get some exercise. Got directions to the local pool from Sarah and set out. The pool was dry, so I got directions to another pool and 20 minutes later was wet. It was a hot day so the pool felt fantastic. Managed to do just over 2 km, but it hurt - and I know it's going to feel worse tomorrow. Entry: Wandered around central Melbourne checking out camera shops - I'm trying to sell a lens. The first place I tried the woman took a look and said we won't buy that since we only buy the "Ultrasonic" Canon lenses. I said it is an ultrasonic lens; she said no it's not. I looked, and sure enough it's not. I would have sworn I had an ultrasonic lens, but it must be my other lens. Entry: Made reservations for the ferry next Sunday (soonest I could get) to take my car over to Tasmania. Went to a book store and bought Explore Australia 2000 (Sarah highly recommended this - and it looks good), and Fielding's The Worlds Most Dangerous Places - a book I know my mom doesn't want me to have... Entry: Found an internet cafe to check email. While I was on line I started thinking about the ultrasonic lens thing again. I have a list of all my serial numbers for everything I've brought with me in my account, so I checked the serial number of the lens. Sure enough it's different! Somewhere along the line since last January my Canon Ultrasonic 75-300 mm lens has been swapped for a Cannon 75-300 mm lens! I feel really stupid, and I can't think of when it could have happened. Furthermore it must have been deliberate because I've had a filter on the lens the entire time and it's still there (so it must have been swapped as well). What's that mean to me? Not much since I've already replaced the lens - the non-ultrasonic lens is worth about US$ 40 less on the used market - but it's still very annoying. Entry: Had a great diner at a little hole in the wall Vietnamese restaurant with Sarah and John. It's their last diner in Melbourne since they're moving out of the house tomorrow (going to Sydney). Back at the house we watched a movie (Copy Cat) and finished off the port.

February
15

Bellarine Peninsula, Vic, Australia
From Melbourne Found In: End Location: Bellarine Peninsula, Vic, Australia Route: Car: Princess Highway (M1), C125 Photo: Moving the couch, Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Entry: The movers came and I was just in the way, so I made myself scarce and sat in the sun reading. I came back a couple hours later, but they were still going. Helped Sarah and John paint the front room, and helped with a couple large items that had to be handed down from the second story (Mattresses and a couch), but for the most part sat in my car looking at the maps and planning my route for the next four days). Entry: Around four I picked up Sarah's sister Prue, and we drove down the their family's ranch near the heads of Port Phillip bay. Sarah and John showed up just after we did, and I got the tour through the rose fields (it's a rose and cattle ranch) and around the house. It's a beautiful nearly all glass house (you can see through it) overlooking the bay with the rose fields to one side, and pastures on the others. Had a great barbecue and a couple nice bottles of wine, and finished off with a bottle of port.

February
16

Cowes, Phillip Island, Vic, Australia
From Bellarine Peninsula via Queenscliff; Sorrento; Ramsays Vin-Rose Winery / Vial Terlato; Point Grant; and Penguin Parade Found In: Stop: Ramsays Vin-Rose Winery / Vial Terlato, Vic, Australia Stop: Point Grant, Phillip Island, Vic, Australia Stop: Penguin Parade, Phillip Island, Vic, Australia Photo: Coast, Point Grant (Seal Rocks), Phillip Island, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-446 Photo: Little (Fairy) Penguin, Point Grant (Seal Rocks), Phillip Island, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-446 Photo: Little (Fairy) Penguin, Point Grant (Seal Rocks), Phillip Island, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-446 Photo: Mother Little (Fairy) Penguin, Point Grant (Seal Rocks), Phillip Island, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-446 Photo: Mother and chick Little (Fairy) Penguin, Point Grant (Seal Rocks), Phillip Island, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-446 Photo: Bass Straight Coast, Point Grant (Seal Rocks), Phillip Island, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-446 Entry: When I woke up no one was around. So I went for a walk through the rose fields looking for everyone - found them finishing off with the mornings harvest. Got directions and said goodbye and set off on the short drive to the ferry. Perfect timing so I only had to wait five minutes before the car was loaded. Took the ferry across the mouth of Port Phillip Bay from Queenscliff (Bellarine Peninsula) to Sorrento (Mornington Peninsula). Entry: On the Mornington Peninsula I tried to go to a few wineries, but they were all closed - they're only open on the weekends. Set off to drive to Philip Island (my planned stop for the night). Shortly into the drive I noticed that my "Charge" light is on - uh, oh. I stopped at a winery to check out the fan belt (and try a couple wines). The belt was fine (so it's either one or both of the batteries, or the alternator), and the wine was average. Tried another winery, the light is still on, and the wine was much better (Villa Terlato - bought a bottle of their Cab-Pinot). Entry: Got in to town checked into a YHA hostel and called an auto electrician, but he can't see me until Friday. I get out my shop manual and look at things, but I can't find anything wrong with the system, so I think it is the alternator. I decide I'll keep driving, and ignore the problem until the voltage drops significantly. While I'm under the hood I look at the AC - it looks like it's still full, then realize the pump has seized - no more AC for me, that's going to be big money to fix. Entry: Set out to explore the island. It's quite crowded and obviously a huge tourist attraction. Visited the Koala Conservation Center - got there right at closing time (the sign says open until dusk, but they close two and a half hours before sunset). They let me in anyway and I wandered around looking for koalas. There is an elevated boardwalk, so there were five koalas that I could get within a meter or so of. The rest of the koalas are way up in the trees and you can't see them very well. I have to admit they look every bit as soft as a stuffed animal, but not nearly as friendly ad the stuffed variety. Entry: When I pulled out of the conservation center I pulled on to the wrong side of the road - only the first time I've goofed since leaving Sydney, and I had to do it when it nearly resulted in a head on with a police car - oops. They gave me a warning and were pretty cool about the whole thing. Entry: Drive out to Point Grant (Seal Rocks) at the end of the island. Walk around the boardwalks - beautiful views of the coast, and even a few Fairy Penguins, but the crowds are pretty bad and after a couple hours I leave. The Penguin Parade - what Philip Island is famous for - was a bit of a disappointment. Very commercialized - there are even grandstands you have to sit on. They used to allow photography without flashes, but they've now made all photography, video, and digital against the rules. They say it's because of flashes caused by the auto-focus systems, but with the huge floodlights they have set up there would be plenty of light for video, digital, or fast film. There must have been 2,000 people there, and maybe a total of 40 penguins - the biggest group was probably only 20 birds - far less than the 2,000 they advertise! Back at the hostel I started talking with two Californians and agreed to give them a ride to Wilson's Promontory National Park - where I'm going tomorrow. Last thing I do on my way to bed is warn them about the electrical situation.

February
17

Tidal River, Wilsons Promontory National Park, Vic, Australia
From Cowes, Phillip Island via Dandenong Found In: Entry: Met up with Linda and Jeff (the two Americans that I had offered a ride to), packed the car and loaded in. Then the car wouldn't start. I had been hoping that I could survive a few more days and deal with this when I got back to Melbourne... They took off, and I called the auto electrician again and begged him to help me out - he agreed to drop by quickly. When he showed up he fiddled around and checked the batteries and decided that one of the batteries was shot, and there was something wrong with the alternator. I followed him back to his shop, and spent the next two hours there. He replaced the one battery ($$$...), determined that the rotor was open - translation: I need a new alternator ($$$$$...), then spent and hour on the phone trying to track one down this side of Melbourne. He found one a hundred kilometers up the road with an electrician who could install it for me today, and sent me on my way. I drove up there (at least the car will start with the new battery in it), found the mechanic and spent the next three hours hanging out as he fixed everything. At 5:30 it's fixed and I'm on my way nearly A$550 poorer. Entry: I decide to still head for Wilsons Promontory even though I'm running nearly eight hours later than planned, and I'm an hour farther away. The drive down isn't exciting. The highlight was stopping for diner at Mc Donald's (which would have been a lot more of a highlight if I hadn't had lunch there as well). Got to the park around 7:30, but still had another 30 km to go before getting to the camp ground. The drive was slow because there are a lot of kangaroos and wombats on the road - it's actually pretty stressful. A few kilometers before the camp site I have to pull off for the most incredible sunset (must have taken fifteen photos) - very pink behind this perfect little mountainous island. Pull in the the camp ground and find a site - there are wombats everywhere and they completely ignore people. They look like bear cub sized beavers with koala-like faces. Hung out with the campsite next door (two Canadian guys, an English, and a Dutch) drinking port and talking about traveling (they'd all spent time in Asia, and one of the Canadians had been all around Australia over the last year).

February
18

Melbourne, Vic, Australia
From Tidal River, Wilsons Promontory National Park via Squeaky Beach, Wilsons Promontory National Park Found In: Entry: Up early - the tent gets hot! (next time need to consider where the sun is going to come up). Packed, Showered, checked in and out (I got to the camp site after hours last night), and did the short hike to Squeaky Beach. The beach was spectacular - striking red rocks, pure white sand, bright green vegetation, and blue water! Went for a great body surfing session and just hung out in the sun. Eventually these huge biting flies won and drove me away. Entry: Drove back to Melbourne - Took country roads most of the way so I got lost a few times, but it was pretty. In Melbourne had to try a couple places before I found a backpackers with space available. I was getting pretty desperate, so I gave in and did laundry. Entry: Walked into the city center for diner (while doing laundry realized I hadn't had anything to eat yet today - and was instantly starving). Stopped in a surplus store just to look around and ended up buying a camp chair and a travel pillow - the two things I was missing most camping last night. Had diner at Pizza Hut - not good, but the all you can eat buffet was just what I needed. Hit the internet cafe and finally moved the rest of my web pages over to my permanent domain name OnHiatus.com - my wolfenet page is now a thing of the past. Entry: Went down to the hostel bar for a few beers. It's weird, it's been a long time since I've hung out in a hostel type bar by myself (Turkey?) - everyone looked like they were twelve, and I just felt out of place. The room was stifling hot and I didn't get very much sleep. I obviously wasn't the only one hot - when I walked in I did a double take as one of the girls in my dorm room was stark naked on top of her covers.

February
19

Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Found In: Entry: Intended to go wine tasting in the Yarro Valley today but after it being so hot yesterday and last night it's hotter today - and humid. It was way to hot to go taste red wine. So then I decided I'd go for a swim at the pool then go to the beach. But after walking outside I realized it's to hot to do anything. Ended up spending most of the day in air conditioned shops. Bought a book on Java Script (I'm thinking of a major upgrade to the web pages). Entry: Also got a couple of rolls of film developed (with photos from Ethiopia, Madagascar, Bali, and Australia). The film was a little disappointing - it seems like they always are, but when I go back to them later they've always gotten so much better. Entry: Spent some time on the internet, and the rest of the day sitting around sweating. Did some reading and worked on my journals a bit.

February
20

Devonport, Tas, Australia
From Melbourne, Vic Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Very little sleep last night - it was just to hot. The mattress was wet when I finally gave up and got up fifteen minutes before the alarm. Took another cold shower, but again by the time I got back to the room I was sweating. The humidity was even worse this morning - it's raining - and still bloody hot! No one at the hostel could give me directions to the ferry terminal (Station Pier), so I was a little worried, but found it without easily and was among the first to line up. Entry: Was looking forward to getting some sleep in the cabin but one or more of my cabin mates smells bad - and I know I'm not smelling like roses. Plus this big redneck aussie guy won't stop bragging about how he got two DUIs within 24 hours yesterday. Needless to say I set up camp in one of the lounges upstairs. Spent the day eating (the included buffets were actually pretty good), reading, and playing with my H/PC. In the evening went down to the tourist office and booked a room at a local hostel (yes a room - I deserve the luxury). The tourist office was jammed and there were only a few beds left when I got my room confirmed - good timing! Entry: For entertainment next week is the international Hash House Harriers meeting (InterHash 2K) in Tasmania so the boat was packed with them. It's amazing how many older (say late thirties to late seventies) people (both sexes) can act as if they're at a fraternity party. They were incredible loud, drunk, and disorderly - I'm sure the security people were pulling their hair out. But they were also friendly, amusing, and always entertaining. Entry: Got in to Davenport at ten PM - right on time. My departure was delayed as the person who was blocking me in was no where to be seen. After waiting fifteen minutes a couple crew members literally lifted it back a few feet so I could maneuver out. Even with the delay I was still one of the first people from the ferry to the hostel. I was in bed shortly after eleven.

February
21

Boat Harbor Beach, Tas, Australia
From Devonport via Rocky Cape National Park; and Warrawah Beach Found In: Photo: Aboriginal cave and coast, Rocky Cape National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: Aboriginal cave and coast, Rocky Cape National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Entry: Woke up after a fantastic sleep to a gray day - but at least it wasn't raining. Left the hostel and decided to continue west along the North coast despite the gray weather. Took a break from driving at Rocky Cape National Park. The gloom was starting to break up and blue skies were showing through but the wind was starting to build. The view from the end of the cape was of spectacular coast and storm surf. I sat watching the ocean until another car showed up. Decided to do a short hike to the aboriginal cave. The cave didn't look any better up close than it did from afar, but it was a good excuse to wander through a surreal forest of coastal scrub trees. Entry: Continued west until the road ended in Warrawah on the west coast. By now the sun was starting to shine, so I didn't bother with the sleepy village and headed for the beach. The beaches were fantastic. Long stretches of white sand, beautiful rocky coves, excellent surf, and no one to be seen. No one, no cars, no houses - perfect. Except for the wind. Entry: I went to Nettle Bay first. The road ended on a rocky point a hundred yards from the sand itself. It was a great beach, and the surf was huge - though to blown out to do much with. Obviously beaches aren't in high demand here - this one was deserted except for thirty or so head of cattle! Entry: At the next beach (Warrawah Beach) it was so beautiful and quite sunny that I decided to try to get wet and lay out for a bit. Again there was no one to be seen - not even cows here. Found a likely spot out of the wind behind a small dune, but it didn't help much. The wind continued to get stronger and stronger and in less than an hour I gave up. I've been debating whether to head south on the unpaved roads or to back track most of the way on the good road then head south on the highway.... Entry: Went back to the car and started it up, but when I went to put it in gear there was trouble. The clutch isn't giving me enough play. Figured it was probably the fluid level (though I'd just checked it two days ago) - and since I didn't have any fluid at the end of the dirt road I was on I decided to go until I found a garage - guess I'm backtracking. Turned the car off, put it in gear, and started it again. I was able to manhandle the car into gear one it was moving, but every time I came to a stop I had to turn the engine off and restart it in gear. About an hour down the road I found a mechanic so I stopped the car in a lot next door and tried to figure out what was wrong myself. Plenty of fluid so I guessed that there must be something wrong with the clutch cylinder - uh oh. Entry: The mechanic was on the phone so I had to wait about half an hour. I told him what was up and he went and took a look under the car and under the hood - nothing looked wrong to him. He got in and tried - everything is working! I hate when that happens. He took a look at the fluid and said it looked as if it had never been changed so it might have boiled - that was the only explanation that we could come up with. He flushed the system and put new fluid in, I paid him ten dollars and was on my way. Whew! Entry: Stopped at Stanley, a small town on the end of a peninsula with Circular Bluff looming over it. Circular Bluff (usually called "The Nut") is a big rock about 1,500 feet high. It was way to windy (it's even more windy now) to climb but the view is nice and the storm surf is beautiful. At one point I got out of the car to take a photo and I couldn't keep my eyes from tearing up long enough to take the picture! So I left. Ended up at Boat Harbor Beach - a small town on a beautiful beach. Checked in to the hostel - deserted, only one other person staying here. Only one restaurant (of two) in town is open so I went and had a magnificent (and expensive) diner then back to the hostel. Sat up talking with this old guy who's staying here. He's definitely a redneck and I had to work at keeping my cool about some of the things he said... when he came up with his solutions to the Australian aboriginal problem ("Shoot the lot of them...") I couldn't deal any more and went to bed.

February
22

Hobart, Tas, Australia
From Boat Harbor Beach via Queenstown; and Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park Found In: Stop: Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park, Tas, Australia

Weather: Rain / Partial Sun / Overcast Photo: Valley and mountains, Murchison Highway, north of Queenstown, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: Stained hills, Just outside Queenstown, Tas, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: Stained hills, Just outside Queenstown, Tas, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: Stained hills, Just outside Queenstown, Tas, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: Forest trail, Franklin-Gordon National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: Forest trail, Franklin-Gordon National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: Valley view, Franklin-Gordon National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: View point, Franklin-Gordon National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: Mountains, Viewpoint, Franklin-Gordon National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: Some "blue" berries, Franklin-Gordon National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: Mountain Meadow, Murchison Highway, Franklin-Gordon National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Entry: Slept well, but then kept waking up very early while it was still dark out. Then someone knocked on my door to say it was eleven - and it was still dark out, I hadn't realized there was no windows, and the room was a lot darker than I though! Got out of there as quickly as possible and was driving in the rain twenty minutes later. Backtracked a little further to Sommerset and then turned onto the southbound highway. It was a narrow twisty road down and up through the Hellyer Gorge - it was a little stressful in the rain, but stunning in its beauty. Entry: Drove through some fantastic forest and around some stunning mountains and ridges. Finally a part of Australia with real mountains. They're actually not that tall (I'd guess less than five thousand feet), but they look like proper mountains. Entry: The drive into the mining town of Queenstown is shocking. You're driving through dense rainforest - then suddenly you're on the moon. The ground is almost entirely barren and bleached. Then as you drive into the hills it gets worse - the hills are stained. Most of them a nicotine yellow, others a rusty red, none have any growth and they are all deeply eroded valleys. Apparently all this was rainforest that was cut down to feed the mine's furnaces. The pollution from the copper smelters killed the remaining vegetation and the heavy rainfall stripped the top soil away. The bare rocky earth was stained by the tailings of mines, and the pollution of the smelters. The smelters were shut down more than thirty years ago and still there is barely any life. Entry: The sun had come out so I got out of the car and wandered through some of the yellow hills, but the sulfur smell and the destruction weren't very enjoyable. Luckily a short drive brought me out of the blight and into the wonderful greens of Wild Rivers National Park. I stopped here and purified myself with an hour plus hike. The valleys, mountains, and colors were incredible. From a view point I felt like I was in the Cascade Mountains in spring. Entry: As I finished up the hike the weather turned drizzly again and I decided to make a dash all the way to Hobart instead of camping in the somewhere in the park or the surrounding Cradle Mountains. The drive was a little on the long side, but Tasmania really is beautiful and mountainous. maybe it's just the contrast to the mainland, but it really was enjoyable to be driving through the mountains. Entry: Got in to Hobart around seven and found a place to stay right downtown. No parking so I'll have to et up before eight to go move the car, but a great location otherwise. Watched TV for awhile and had a couple beers in the hostel bar. Tried Cascade Export Stout - excellent, now my second favorite Australian beer (after Matilda Bay Bitter).

February
23

Hobart, Tas, Australia
Found In: Entry: Woke up at 7:45 to go move my car (it was parked where it was going to be illegal at eight). Came back and laid down for a minute - or a couple hundred minutes as it turned out. Entry: Spent the day wandering around Hobart. It's a pleasant enough town, but not too exciting. Especially relative to how fantastic the rest of Tasmania is. Did some shopping (Nothing exciting, bought a couple tapes, and some underwear).

February
24

Port Arthur, Tas, Australia
From Hobart via Eaglehawk, Tasman Peninsula Found In: Stop: Eaglehawk, Tasman Peninsula, Tas, Australia Photo: Coast, Dive boat, Tasman Peninsula, Tas, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Photo: Coast, Dive boat, Tasman Peninsula, Tas, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Photo: Coast, Dive boat, Tasman Peninsula, Tas, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Photo: Buildings, Port Arthur, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: Ruins, Port Arthur, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-275 Photo: Ruins, Port Arthur, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-275 Entry: Got up early again because of where my car was parked. Rather than moved it I put money in the meter - I figured half an hour to take a quick shower and get out of there. Didn't count on having to wait half an hour for the shower though and when I finally got out I was ten minutes late and I had a my first ticket (only A$ 10 - in Sydney it probably would have been A$ 95!) Entry: After getting up so early I thought coffee sounded like a good idea. Sat at a sidewalk cafe in Salamanca Place down near the wharf and had the best latte I've had in Australia. Drove out to the Tasman Peninsula - it's a nice enough drive, but by Tamanian standards not very scenic. I stopped in Eaglehawk (just north of the Eaglehawk neck about half way dowen the Tasman Peninsula) to check out the view of Pirates Bay from the view point. While I was there I remembered reading that there is a dive club there, so I went looking. It was just down the street from where I had stopped. They had a dive going out in an hour! Entry: It was a good dive, but not fantastic. I was a bit disapointed with the saftey (no partners, everyone went their own way, and the dive master was off on his own collecting samples). The dive was right off the shore among huge boulders with overhangs, crevases, and kelp. It's the first time in three years (except Lake Malawi) that I've had a dive that wasn't on a reef. Reminicent of diving in Laguna - rocky, lots of kelp. It was also quite chilly - almost half the temperature of the last dive I did in Bali (16°C vs. 30°C). Despite my unhapiness with the managing of the dive I'm considering going tomorrow morning agian. There are two possible dives that looked fantastic (I saw the video) - one is in a giant cave, the other is an 85 year old wreck (in 40m!) If I end up spending the night on the Tasman Peninsula I'll probably go (plus it would be alot cheaper as I was told I wouldn't have to pay the equipment rental for the second dive). Entry: The coast is spectacular - lush green forest on rocky cliffs plunging directly into the water. Did a quick drive through the Pirates Bay State Reserve - pretty, but nothing any different from all around. In Tasman National Park I went to see the Tasman Arch and the Devil's Kitchen - both dramatic coastal rock formations. Entry: When I finally got to Port Arthur I decided to stay the night - that way I could maybe go for another dive and definitely visit the Tasmanian Devil Park. Obviously this was the fated thing to do since I got the last bed at the YHA. Entry: Spent the evening wandering around the ruins of Port Arthur (the high security penitentiary town of the colonial days). It was after hours and I wasn't supposed to be there, but it was fantastic - no one else and the fading light was perfect.

February
25

Coles Bay, Tas, Australia
From Port Arthur via Tasmania Devil Park Wildlife Refuge Center, Tasman Peninsula; Tessellated Pavement State Reserve, Tasman Peninsula; and Launceston Found In: Stop: Tasmania Devil Park Wildlife Refuge Center, Tasman Peninsula, Tas, Australia Stop: Tessellated Pavement State Reserve, Tasman Peninsula, Tas, Australia Photo: The Lanterns Rock formations, View Point, Eaglehawk, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-275 Photo: The Lanterns Rock formations, View Point, Eaglehawk, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-275 Photo: The Lanterns & Pirates Bay, View Point, Eaglehawk, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 260-275 Photo: The Lanterns & Pirates Bay, View Point, Eaglehawk, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: "Paving stones", Tessellated Pavement Starte Reserve, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Entry: Up early for the drive up the peninsula to the dive center. It turns out the wind has changed directions so they can't dive either the cave or the wreck. As they're going to the same site I dove yesterday I decided to skip it. Drove back down the peninsula to the Tasmania Devil Park Wildlife Refuge Center. Saw the Tassie Devils, walabies, kangaroos, possums, and lots of birds. The Tasmanian devils were a little disappointing - ugly little brutal things - kind of like big possums with bad skin. Pretty amazing bites though - watched one bite through the leg bone of a rabbit in a single champ. Entry: Headed up the coast for the Freycinet Peninsula. As I got near the national park it started to rain. I decided to skip on up to the city of Launceston which I was planning on visiting anyway (on Saturday). If the weather gets nicer tomorrow it's only a couple hours back to Feycinet. Of course as I get into Launceston the sun comes out - and and hour later I hear on the radio that real rain is supposed to move in tomorrow afternoon. So if I want to see the Freycinet National Park - which I do - it's got to be tomorrow morning. So back in the car for the drive back to the peninsula. I get to Coles Bay - the town on the peninsula just after dusk and decide to stay in a hostel tonight. If the weather is ok I'll camp tomorrow night.

February
26

Launceston, Tas, Australia
From Coles Bay via Trail Head, Freycinet National Park; Wineglass Bay Lookout, Freycinet National Park; Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park; Hazards Beach, Freycinet National Park; and The Friendly Beaches, Freycinet National Park Found In: Stop: Trail Head, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia Stop: Wineglass Bay Lookout, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia Stop: Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia Stop: Hazards Beach, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia Stop: The Friendly Beaches, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia

Weather: Rain / Partial Sun / Sunny Photo: Wineglass Bay, Look out, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 213-709 Photo: Wineglass Bay, Look out, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Wineglass Bay through trees, Trail, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: The beach, Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: The beach, Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: One of the Hazards, Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: One of the Hazards, Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Hazards Beach, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: The Friendly Beachs, Freycinet National Park, Tas, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Entry: Woke up to heavy rain - so much for my long hike. Went to the cafe and had a cup of coffee and some breakfast, then another cup a coffee. Half way through the second cup the rain slacked off. Headed for the park. By the time I got to the trail head of the Wineglass Bay / Hazards Beach trail there were about twenty other cars in the car park with the same idea. Got on the trail as quickly as I could and after passing a few others had it pretty much to my self. Entry: The view point looks down on the incredible clear blue water and brilliant white sand of Wineglass Bay. On a sunny day I'll bet that it is almost to dazzleing to look at! Even with the heavy skies it was still beautiful and bright. On the hike down the skies started to clear, and by the time I got to the bay propper I was wishing I'd brought a swimming suit. There were still clouds in the sky and a coolish breeze, but there was lots of blue peeking through. At the far end of the bay there's a campsite, I suspect it would be absolute paradise to come a camp there for a few days (or months...). Hiked across the narrow peninsula to Hazards Beach. By the time I got there the skies were mostly sunny, but the wind was firece and the whitecapped water was not at all inviting. Walked along the beach to the far end of the cove where the trail headed up in to the hills. Entry: The trail was a bit of a slog, but the stunning coastal views kept me motivated. On this segment I passed a big group and a few smaller groups - they must have been people who braved the rain. On another segment of the trail I got quite a fright when I came around a corner and nearly triped on a wallaby. I think he was as shocked to see me - I'm pretty sure he hopped higher than I am! He stopped and we spent a minute regarding each other from a few meters apart, but when I reached for my camera I broke the spell and he bounced off. Entry: By the time I got back to the car there were only a few fluffy white clouds left in the sky and it was starting to get hot. It was a fantastic four hour hike. It's the park's flagship hike and I think the rains did me a huge favor. I only had to deal with a few dozen people - I'd guess on a typical summer Saturday there would be hundreds there. Entry: Drove up the road to the last of the parks beaches and settled in for a dip and some sunning. Unfortunately I was only there about a half hour before the wind shifted and I started to get sandblasted. Decided to head up to Launceston for the night. That way it's only a couple hours tomorrow. To get up to Devonport to catch the ferry tomorrow night. If I'm motivated I can go wine tasting or explore somemore of the coast. Entry: Got into town, and found a great pub with backpackers acomadation - they even have free laundry facilities. Spend the evening doing laundry. While the wash is going I wander around and step out on the fire escape - the pub is in a rather industiral part of town, but the buildings are old and interesting. Then I notice across and down the road is a rowing club! I walk down to the club but there is no one about. Hopefully tomorrow morning I can motivate and go see if I can find someway to get on the water. Have diner, a few beers, and a glass of port before heading to bed. But then the bartender won't let me get away. He's this older guy (probably mid-70s), very friendly, and loves to talk. He gives me a few drinks on the house (a beer and a couple ports) and next thing I know it's nearly midnight...

February
27

Devonport, Tas, Australia
From Launceston via Rosevears Estate, Tamar Valley; St. Matthias Vinyards, Tamar Valley; Batman Bridge Vinyards, Tamar Valley; and Holm Oak Vinyards, Tamar Valley Found In: Stop: St. Matthias Vinyards, Tamar Valley, Tas, Australia Stop: Batman Bridge Vinyards, Tamar Valley, Tas, Australia Stop: Holm Oak Vinyards, Tamar Valley, Tas, Australia Entry: Up early (around six) and stagger out to the fire escape to check out the rowing club - no life visible so head back to bed. Up a couple hours later but still no activity at the boat house - maybe they don't row on Sundays. After packing and checking out of the hotel I was still feeling motivated so I found the public pool. It wasn't the most pleasant experience, but I felt pretty good about getting some exercise (1.5 km). I felt so good about it that I went in to town a found a restaruant that was open (Launceston is absolutely dead on Sundays) and had a huge lunch. Entry: Wandering around Launceston I found my self sinking into melancholy. I don't know if it's leaving Tasmania tonight or if the deserted streets are making me feel lonely. Deside to get out of town and hit the road. I need to get to Devonport to catch the ferry, but it's not more than an hour drive, and they don't start loading until after eleven tonight. I take a longcut and go through the Tamar Valley - Tasmania's chief wine producing region. I only went by a few wineries, but the wine was good, and the cellars were small and friendly (more like the Hunter Valley than Margaret River). Entry: Tasted 11 wines from four wineries:

Rosvears Estate
St Matthias Vinyards
Batman Bridge Vinyards (excellent Cabernet Sauvignon)
Holm Oak Vinyards (also excellent Cabernet Sauvignon)

Entry: I didn't want to be driving the country roads to late (seen lot of wallaby and kangaroo roadkill - and I'd rather not be involved) so I headed for Devonport. Got in around six and while wandering around found the cinema - with a movie just about to start. Saw The Wog Boy which was hillarious. It's an Australian movie and I'm really curious to see if it will be released in the US, and if people will find it funny if they do... After the movie had diner at Mc Donald's - the only thing open. Entry: Got in line for the ferry, it's already a half mile long and they don't even start loading for two more hours! I guess no one knows what to do on a Sunday night in Devonport. Entry: A little excitement when the line starts to move. I get to the ticket booth and give my name to pick up my papers, but she wants to see my student card (I'd gotten a discount). Now I didn't get asked when I checked in from Melbourne, and I just realized a couple days ago that my card has expired as of Jan 1. So I pull over and spend 15 minutes trying to find the card, verify that it has expired (it has) and go to face the music. I think the lady had forgotten about me and felt guilty, because when I showed her the card and agreed that it had expired she said well at least I tried and let me go.

February
28

Torquay, Vic, Australia
From Devonport, Tas via Melbourne Found In: Route: Ferry - Spirit of Tasmania: Devonport - Melbourne; Car: Princes Highway (M1), Surfcoast Highway (B100) Entry: Spent the morning trying to sleep then lounging around bored or working on a program. The ferry got in to Melbourne right on time at three. I went in to the city to check email at an internet cafe. I was only planning on getting a hour or so down the coast so I wasn't in any huge hurry. Did the internet, got on my way and had to deal with traffic. I got about fifteen minutes out of town and realized I'd left my pull-over at the cafe. Almost decided to leave it but then got turned around and headed back into the city - and some of the worst traffic I've ever delt with. It took me just over an hour to get back to the city center - then I had to park... By the time I got my shirt back and was on my way out of the city again I had wasted over two hours! Entry: Luckily the drive wasn't long or difficult. I quickly found a backpackers in Torquay. One of the bottles of wine that I bought at Margret River has leaked (probably too hot in the car) so I decided to see if it had gone bad - it hadn't, so I drank it in front of the TV. After I finished the bottle I started talking with a big group and it seemed natural to open another bottle - I know I'll be thankful tomorrow that I shared the second one!

February
29

Port Campbell, Vic, Australia
From Torquay via Bells Beach; Point Addis; Cape Patton; Apollo Bay; Cape Otway, Otway National Park; and Twelve Apostles, Port Campbell National Park Found In: Stop: Point Addis, Vic, Australia Photo: Bells Beach, Point Addis, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: Split Point lighthouse, Great Ocean Road, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: Coastline, Cape Patton, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: Coastline to the east, Twelve Apostles, Port Campbell National Park, Vic, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Entry: Last night I quickly checked email and found that Steve had put some files on the net for me. I couldn't get them at the hostel because their kiosk type machine doesn't have a diskette drive. Furthermore it's unlikely that I'll be able to find a machine that I can use until I get to Adelaide. I'd like to play with the files so I decide to head back the short distance to Geelong (where someone has told me there is an internet cafe). With some dificulty I find the internet cafe. The good news is it's free, the bad news is they don't have drives either. I'm told there that no one in the area will have floppy disk drives. Have a quick lunch then start back - a wasted two hours. Entry: Turn on the the Great Ocean Road. The first stop was at the famous surf beach, Bells Beach. The surf supposedly can get to six meters here, but today it was under one. It's a beautiful beach, but as usual as I got close to the beach the sky clouded over - it's heavily overcast and even a little cool. No swimming for me. Entry: Stop at a number of beaches, points, capes, and coves. The coast line is beautiful and dramatic, but certainly no better than the Tassie coast, and a whole lot more crowded. There are a lot of tour busses. The whole stretch reminds me a lot of highway one in California, both scenery and crowds wise. Entry: I was planning on staying in Apollo Bay. I got there but really wasn't feeling like spending time at the beach given the gloom so I continued on. Just after Apollo Bay the Great Ocean Road turns inland for a bit. As soon as I start to climb into the hills the skies clear. Looking back I can see the low coastal clouds behind me. Entry: The road comes back to the coast at Port Campbell National Park. The weather has improved somewhat - it's still a bit hazy, but mostly sunny. Stop at the Twelve Apostles - huge rock formations jutting out of the sea off the national park's coast. They're probably Australia's second most famous natural landmark and there is the predictable crowds. It is stunningly beautiful, and the pure beach under the cliffs before is even more beautiful being as untuchable as it is (sheer cliffs - the only way on would be via the water - and that would be through rocks and surf). Took some late evening photos and resolved to come back in the morning to take some more. Entry: In the town of Port Campbell decide to splurge and stay at a B&B instead of the YHA.

March, 2000

March
1

Mount Gambier, SA, Australia
From Port Campbell, Vic via Twelve Apostles, Port Campbell National Park, Vic; Loch Ard Gorge, Port Campbell National Park, Vic; Bay of Maryters, Bay of Islands Coastal Park, Vic; and Crofts Bay, Bay of Islands Coastal Park, Vic Found In: Route: Car: Great Ocean Road (B100), Princes Highway (A1) Entry: In the morning went back to the Twelve Apostles. I wanted to take some more photos with the light coming from the other direction. It was much clearer today, but the beauty didn't seem to affect me as much. I don't know if it's because I'd already seen it, or because there were more people around, or if it looked more dramatic in the haze yesterday. Took a few photos - it really is still an absolutely spectacular site. Drove a few kilometers back to the Loch Ard Gorge which I had skipped yesterday. It's a small bay with high sheer cliffs and a very narrow entry surounded by arches. Very beautful, it also has a dramatic past - the only two survivors of a shipwreck washed up there. Entry: Back heading the right direction again I stopped a couple times in the Bay of Islands Coastal Park - yet more spectacularly carved coast. Stopped at a few viewpoints to take pictures of the amazing rock formations and surf. It was starting to get hot so I pulled off on a dirt track and hiked down to the beach. I had a huge cove all to myself. besides the two fishermen a couple hundred yards off shore there wasn't another person in sight. Perfect. Went for a swim to cool off then laid in the sun. After repeating a couple times I realized that I some biting flies had discovered me (blood dripping down my legs gave it away) and decided I'd probably had enough sun anyway (over an hour and a half had disappeared). Entry: The rest of the day wasn't too exciting. I was going to stop in Port Farie but it just didn't interest me so I decided to go until Portland. Then the same thing happened in Portland so I ended up over the border in South Australia. I'm staying in Mount Gambier which is definitely not that interesting, but it was getting to be evening and I'm within reach of Adelaide tomorrow (two days ahead of schedule!)

March
2

Adelaide, SA, Australia
From Mount Gambier Found In: Route: Car: Princes Highway (A1) Entry: Hot, long, driving day. It wasn't really that long, but it was so hot it seemed long. It peaked at 42°C (108°F) - it cooled off a little mid-afternoon when some clouds rolled in, but the humidity jumped and that made it feel even worse. Got into Adelaide mid a little after four. Checked into a backpacker's - splurged again for a single since I'm going to have all my stuff out of the car packing for New Zealand. Called Rachel (traveled with in Syria in March '98) and aranged to meet tomorrow. Entry: I was going to call home, but then realized that I sort of changed time zones yesterday. Sort of because the time only changed a half hour - is there any place else in the world with half time zones? Spent most of the evening sitting in front of the fan sewing. I haven't done any repair work since Bali so there was a lot to do - didn't finish it, but made a pair of shorts serviceable, and maybe my favorite sarong will last a few more months. Took a cold shower then went to the hostel's bar for a couple beers. In bed pretty early.

March
3

Adelaide, SA, Australia
Found In:

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain / Overcast Entry: Up pretty early to move car. Rachel called (Turkey / Syria March '98) and we arranged to meet. I spent the morning sorting gear - what to leave in the car, what to store elsewhere, and what to take to new Zealand. Followed Rachel to her house and left some stuff for safe keeping, then followed her to her parents and left my car (they've let me park it there for the next month and a half). Entry: Had lunch at a nearby shopping center and while Rachel dealt with some business I got a couple rolls of film developed (all from Tasmania), went to the post office (I'd forgotten to pay the parking ticket I got in Hobart), and went to the book store (now that I've read the last book in the Lord of the Rings series I'm going to read the first three so I bought the Hobbit). Entry: The weather has gone south - still hot, but drizzling and gray. So when Rachel dropped me off at the hostel I just spent the rest of the night goofing off - read, ate diner, and watched the movie 12 Monkeys (as twisted as I remembered it).

March
4

Adelaide, SA, Australia
Found In: Entry: Started of the day doing laundry - due to the Saturday morning laundry rush this took a lot longer than necessary. Sent some email, then ventured outside. Entry: A perfect day weather wise - blue skies a gentle breeze, and not to hot! I wandered around the city center of Adelaide. Not really sure what I think of the city. Definitely nothing to exciting, but it's pleasant and kind of sombre - a good city to walk and think in. Phoned home - nice to talk to people there, though I had some major phone trouble that shortened the conversations. Went and saw the movie "Man on the Moon" - which I liked. Then went wandering around the streets again. Entry: By this time the streets were pretty much deserted though it's still bright and sunny out. Wandered around thinking (about travel, life, war, peace, love and gravity - everything and nothing) and by the time I got back to the hostel I'm in a very weird mood. I feel like I'm 18 and indestructable, but at the same time philosphical and pensive. I don't know whether to go get drunk or sit down and meditate. It's a good mood, but strange. Entry: Spent most of the evening packing - I hate packing! Luckily I don't seem to have forgotten anything, and everything seems to fit in my pack - two worries put to rest.

March
5

Auckland, New Zealand
From Adelaide, SA, Australia via Sydney, NSW, Australia Found In: Entry: By the time I got to bed last night it was after midnight. Then an opera singer kept wandering up and down the halls - seriously she must have had training her voice was beautiful and it was amazing what she could make her voice do, but it wasn't conducive to sleep. So the four thirty alarm was way to early. The taxi to the airport and the flight to Sydney were without excitement. In Sydney Susie met me for coffee - she'd had a rough night and was in worse shape than I was. The flight to Auckland was also unexciting and went by quick (they showed a movie I hadn't seen!). Entry: At the airport I got a rental SIM card for my phone - it's a good deal, doesn't cost me anything except for outgoing calls are NZ$ 1 per minute (US$ .50). Caught a shuttle bus into the city and checked into a nice hostel. By this point I was so out of it I did all I could to stay awake until proper bedtime.

March
6

Auckland, New Zealand
Found In: Entry: Caught the bus into the city. When I got to the harbor I spent a few minutes remembering how satisfying it is the first time you successfully navigate a new public transport system. Found the Australian consulate without too many problems and went upstairs to wait in line. Half an hour in I realized that I had left my passport at the hostel - not much chance of getting a visa without that! Took the bus back to the hostel - and missed my stop because this bus is going the other way and because of one way streets I didn't recognize where I was until I was nearly a half hour past! Caught another bus back to where I was meant to be and collected my passport. Entry: Had a quick lunch and set off for the city again. Got to the consulate and waited for my number to come up. I had decided to ask for the longest visa given - valid for four years, each stay up to six months. I was asked to do justify why I wanted such a long visa and the best I could do was that I wanted the flexibility. The woman working told me to sit down and she'd think about it. When she called me back up she said she'd give it to me... if I could provide evidence of sufficient funds - $6,000. I explained that I could show probably half that in traveler's checks and that I had credit cards that I normally used. She agreed that would be ok, and said that I should come back tomorrow between 9 and 12 since she'd be there, and she knew my story. Entry: Walked around the city center (pretty touristy, and aimed at the Americas Cup crowd). Since it wasn't too hot or too cold I decided to walk back to the hostel. At the hostel I checked the bus and train schedules and figured out my plans for tomorrow. I'm going to deal with the visa mess in the morning then head north to Paihia on the afternoon bus. I also tried to call the dive center up there to arrange a dive on the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior but I couldn't get through. Entry: Hung out around the hostel talking to other travelers and taking notes in my guide book, then went out for diner by myself. On the way back I ran into a big group from the hostel and had a few beers with them very international (English, Americans, Israelis, Australians, Kiwis, South Africans, Germans, Canadians, and a Jamaican - among others).

March
7

Paihia, New Zealand
From Auckland Found In: Route: Bus: Intercity: Auckland - ? (break down); Northliner Express: ? - Paihia Entry: Back to the consulate. Had to wait for nearly an hour only to find my lady wasn't there. The new woman really was not keen to give me the six month visa and said that I would have to give all kinds of evidence that I wasn't going to live in Australia (most likely, a letter from an employer or school) - but that she was happy to give me a four year / three months per visit visa - so that's what I got. Entry: Walked to the bus station and bought my ticket. Took the bus back to Ponsonby, had a quick lunch, and grabbed my pack from the hostel. Caught another bus to the bus station and go there literally minutes before the bus took off. Called the backpackers that had been recommended to me only to find out they were full. Called then hostel that they had recommended and reserved the last bed - I'm feeling pretty good about renting a SIM card for my mobile phone yesterday. Entry: About an hour into the four hour trip the bus stops - we ran out of fuel! The driver explained that the bus had been being serviced for two weeks and somehow no one thought to fill the tank. He didn't explain why he hadn't looked at the gauge! We sat there for an hour and another bus (from another line picked up as many of us as it could. The remainder of the trip was uneventful. Entry: In Paihia I got my pack and started up the street looking for the backpackers I'm staying at. Less than five minutes after getting off the bus I realized I'd left my favorite pullover on the bus (the same one I had to drive back to Melbourne to pick up). The bus was already gone, but I immediately called the bus line where they were remarkably unhelpful (i.e. they wouldn't call the driver), basically if the cleaners find it, and if they turn it in I can call tomorrow to find out. Found the hostel and passed about five other backpackers that had been on the bus who had been turned away - lucky I'd called ahead! Entry: At the hostel I also had a message from the dive center saying that the tomorrow's dive to the Rainbow Warrior is full. Nothing seems to be going right today. Sat down and worked on my journal then wandered up to the office and spotted a flyer for a different dive shop. Called them and... tomorrow I'm going diving! Entry: Walked down to the water again. The bay ("The Bay of Islands") was beautiful in the last bit of sunlight. Also got to watch some fishermen weigh a ten foot (3m) long blue marlin - 340+ pounds (155 kg)! Hope I don't run into one of those diving... Had diner at a little restaurant, watched some TV and headed for bed - I've got to be at the dive shop before eight - with a packed lunch.

March
8

Paihia, New Zealand
Found In: Route: Dive Boat: Paihia - Rainbow Warrior - The Needles - Paihia Entry: The first dive was on the wreck of Green Peace's flagship, the Rainbow Warrior. The ship was sunk by the French Secret Service in 1985 in an attempt to prevent Green Peace from protesting upcoming nuclear testing in the South Pacific. The ship sank in Auckland but was raised two years later and moved up here and sunk again as an artificial reef. The dive was fantastic. The Rainbow Warrior is mostly intact (only the wheel house is missing). As always it was eerie to dive on the wreck - but fascinating, especially since I knew the history. There was lots of life. The upper deck is mostly covered in a mini kelp forest that shelters many schools of brightly colored fish. The hull has appropriately been covered in a rainbow of anemones. Somehow they absorb low intensity light and emit it at a much higher intensity. So at this depth (about 80 feet; 25 meters) where there is normally very little color big sections of the hull (especially the stern and the bow sprit) seem to glow in florescent greens, blues, pinks, and oranges. It's a sad, but somewhat fitting end for the ship... Entry: After the first dive we had an hour and a half break for lunch and talking while the boat moved to the next dive site. It was a very rocky shoreline off a small island nearer to Paihia. They called the site "The Needles". I didn't see any spectacular life, but it was a really fun dive. The rocks make up a maze of interconnecting canyons and it was a blast to wander through them - at times it really felt like I was flying through desert canyons. There were also plenty of fish - some of which were quite inquisitive or perhaps aggressively protecting their territory - whatever they certainly weren't afraid! Entry: Back in town we all helped clean off and put away the gear then a group of us went out for a beer. Which turned into several beers, story telling, diner, and a couple games of pool. Back at the hostel I sat around discussing middle east politics with a group of Israelis - actually it was a interesting and fun conversation.

March
9

Whangarei, New Zealand
From Paihia Found In: Route: Bus: Intercity: Paihia - Whangarei Entry: Packed, bought my bus ticket, and left my pack at the hostel. Called ahead to Whangarei to book a bed and a couple dives for tomorrow. Whangarei is the nearest town to the Poor Knights Islands - which Jacques Cousteau called the islands one of the ten best diving sites in the world. So that's where I've decided to spend the next couple days. Also called the buss company again to see if there was any word on my pullover - there wasn't, but I left my name and number again. Entry: Spent a couple hours on the internet - mostly goofing off and reading mail. Luckily this bus trip was unsurprising. The hostel owner picked me up at the bus station saving me the search and walk. Spent the afternoon lounging / napping and coming up with a tentative itinerary to see New Zealand in the time I have. In the evening when it started to cool off I walked in to town to look around. Entry: Decided to see a movie, and since the timing was right I saw "The Beach". I bought the ticket with mixed feelings because I've tried twice in the last three days to buy the book and I'd rather read it first. Oh well. The movie was actually pretty good. Lots of Lord of the Flies in there, and lots of travel thoughts that I can relate to right now. Not sure if I would have liked it at home. Can't wait to get to Southeast Asia though...

March
10

Tutukaka, New Zealand
From Whangarei via Tutukaka; and Poor Knights Islands (Riko Riko Cave / The Gardens) Found In: Lodging: Caroline's Boat Entry: Got up before dawn to get my gear together and catch the dive van picks up. Checked in at the dive shop, checked out gear, and went to buy some lunch at a nearby store. When I got to the boat I found Brenda and Paul are here as well. They were both on the same dive I was out of Paihia (the Rainbow Warrior dive). The hour ride out to the Poor Knights Islands was smooth and beautiful. Both dives were fantastic! This has got to be one of my favorite dive sites ever (only the Red Sea and Madagascar would beat it). Entry: The first dive was at (actually in and around) Riko Riko Cave. Swam out to the point between the cave and The Gardens (next cove over), then back and did a quick circuit inside the cave. The highlights were the novelty of diving in the giant cave (specifically the blue glow from the entrance), the jewel anemones (though not as good as the Rainbow Warrior), an eagle ray, and a free swimming yellow moray eel. Entry: The second dive was even better. The dive boat did a little tour of some of the arches on the north island of the Poor Knights Islands, ending up at the gardens - one cove over from the first dive site. We explored several of the many caves and arches in the cove. The first cave had a bell shaped cross section with the top bit above the surface. It dead ended 10 or 15 meters in. We swam to the end and turned around and sat there for ten minutes just watching the fish swim by backlit by the beautiful blue light of the opening. We entered a couple other caves and looked around some pinnacles and arches. Finished off in a blow hole - plenty of water below the surface, so not too dangerous, but uncomfortable because of the booming pressure changes - it forced your breathing to match the surfs rhythm. Entry: Back on shore decided I wanted to dive again tomorrow. They were booked out, but there was a cancellation and I was able to grab a spot. Brenda (who ended up as my dive buddy) offered me a ride back to Whangarei so I went out with a bunch of the other divers and the dive masters for a few beers and diner. Next thing it was midnight and no one was driving. Our divemaster, Caroline, offered to let me crash in the spare cabin on the boat she lives on. An amazing day of diving, a good diner, and too many beers and I end up on a yacht. Only in New Zealand.

March
11

Auckland, New Zealand
From Tutukaka via Poor Knights Islands (The Gardens); Tutukaka; and Whangarei Found In: Entry: Woke up feeling not to bad. Check in at the dive shop, go buy lunch, and once again I'm on the way to the islands. This time it's with a different divemaster and skipper. The wind and swell is up so we're unable to dive the wreck of the Tui. The ride out to the islands is very rough. My compatriots from Paihia, Brenda and Paul, are also there again. Entry: The first dive was absolutely amazing - the visibility was incredible at 100+ feet! We went to a new spot called Red Baron Caves. On the dive explored a series of vertical caves. They started at about 20 meters and ran nearly vertical to openings at the surface just inside the island's rocky shore. The result was a beautiful crystal blue light from above and a deep aqua glow from below. There were also tons of yellow and mottled moray eels. In the first cave a big long tailed sting ray swam into the cave to investigate us. Swam along the bay to the point where the current got strong. While deciding to turn back a big school of pink maomao came around the point with another school of bluish / grayish damoiselles - within seconds we were surrounded by two intersecting clouds of color. Also saw two large (5 to 6 inches long) nudiebranchs - pitch black with bright indigo lung feathers. Pretty sure they were having sex, or whatever passes for sex in a marine slug with external lungs. This was one of my favorite dives ever. Entry: The second dive was back at the Gardens (same as the second dive yesterday). The dive was somewhat disappointing. The visibility was half what it was on the first dive and the surface was rough resulting in a lot of surge in the shallow water. We tried to check out a couple caves - one new one, and the one we spent so much time in yesterday - but the conditions were just to rough to stay long. There wasn't any exciting marine life - a couple eels (mottled morays) and some big scorpion fish were about it. It was a nice enough dive, but relative to the other three dives I've done at the Poor Knights it was disappointing. Entry: The ride back was still rough, but not nearly as bad as the way out. Brenda was heading to Auckland and offered a ride so I decided not to stay in Whangarei. Caught the dive van back to the hostel and packed. Brenda picked me up for drive back to Auckland. Had to check four or five hostels before finding space in the suburb of Mt Eden. Had an unexciting diner at Pizza Hut that was delicious in my ravenous state. To bed early.

March
12

Auckland, New Zealand
Found In: Entry: Nice lazy day. Got to sleep in until nearly ten. Spent the morning reading my travel book. Between my ears (which are bugging me) and reading the travel guide I've decided not to go back to Tutukaka for more diving. I'm going to try to catch the train tomorrow morning - an unfortunately early morning train. Entry: Got on the internet and got caught up on email, banking, and the news. Wandered around Mt Eden's eccentric shops and had a late brunch and coffee. Everything seems to be pretty sleepy on a Sunday afternoon. Spent the rest of the afternoon reading and getting caught up on my journal. Got on the internet again to quickly update my journal and finished the night off with kababs for diner and a bad television movie.

March
13

Rotorua, New Zealand
From Auckland Found In: Route: Train: Geyserland Express: Auckland - Rotorua

Weather: Overcast / Rain / Overcast Entry: Got up dreadfully early (dreadful mostly because of the half dozen snorers in the room). Called the train station to verify there was space on the morning train to Rotorua - there was. Quickly packed and caught a taxi to the train station. Made it to the train station with less than ten minutes to spare. By the time I bought my ticket and checked in I got on the train with about two minutes to spare. The route was the Geyserland Express - 277 kilometers and 166 bridges from Auckland to Rotorua. It sounded spectacular and probably would be except the weather was uncooperative - either gray and misty or rainy. Still a nice reminder of how much nicer a train is compared to a bus. Coming in to town was pretty amazing - steam vents everywhere. All the parks have vents, hot springs, and mud pools - even the golf course (how's that for a hazard). Entry: Checked into the hostel around one, and sat down on my bed to read the guide book. I was so tired I just closed my eyes for a minute - and woke up three hours later! Went out for a walk along the lake through the Sulfur Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. Nothing too exciting - lots of birds and steam vents. Walked around the city center, checked email, and had a mediocre Mexican diner. Spent the evening reading, then at nine o'clock walked over to the sulfur and radium springs. Sat in the hot springs until closing time (eleven o'clock) then walked back to the hostel and fell instantly asleep.

March
14

Rotorua, New Zealand
Via Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Area; and Tamaki Village Found In:

Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Overcast Entry: Caught a shuttle bus out to Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Area - supposedly the most beautiful of the area's geothermal parks. The first stop was at Lady Knox Geyser - it erupts every day at 10:15 AM. It erupts at that time because at 10:10 a ranger pours half a kilo of soap into it. I found the crowds annoying but not as annoying as forcing the geyser to perform - it just doesn't seem right. The eruption wasn't even very impressive, maybe twenty feet for half a minute. I didn't even take a picture. Entry: Next went into the valley of Wai-O-Tapu proper. This was interesting with mud pots and hot springs, but mostly just sulfur smelling steam vents. The colors are supposed to be amazing, but in the overcast skies they seemed washed out. The crowds were fairly bad on the inner loop, but as I moved on to the farther trails it thinned out some. There were some impressive lakes and nice views - the Champagne Pool was probably the highlight - a large blue bubbling hot spring outlined with a bright red mineral deposit. I walked all the trails in the valley in just over an hour - I had planned on being there for three. Entry: Next stop was at the Maori village of Tamaki. This was as disappointing as any of the culture on display set ups I've ever seen. I declined to see the entire show (expensive and I hate those kind of shows) and just wandered around the market place. The market was just a group of stands demoing carving (not really) and trying to sell overpriced T-shirts and carvings. Twenty minutes was more than enough. Entry: Back in Rotorua I was glad that I'd been so far ahead of my plan - it started to pour rain. I hung out reading for an hour and when the rain lightened walked in to town. I had a very early supper, checked out the internet then just wandered around town checking out the shops. Back at the hostel I booked a bus for tomorrow to Waitomo and a cave tour (black water rafting, abseiling, rock climbing and glow worms - should be fun!) Spent the rest of the evening reading - I'm almost done with Alex Garland's The Beach (much better than the movie).

March
15

Otorohanga, New Zealand
From Rotorua via Waitomo Caves Found In: Route: Shuttle: Rotorua - Waitomo, Waitomo - Otorohanga; Train: Otorohanga - Wellington Lodging: TranzScenic Train: Otorohanga - Wellington Photo: Geared up for caving, Waitomo Caves, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: The gang in the club, Otorohanga Club, Ortorohanga, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Entry: Up early to watch the sunrise while waiting for my shuttle bus. Got to Waitomo and the group I'm going caving with is waiting so it was immediately into another van to go out to the cave. Got suited up (farmer john wetsuit, helmet with light, gum boots, and a climbing harness) and walked down to the cave. Somehow I ended up in the front of the line so when it came time to abseil (rappel) down the 100 feet to the cave entrance I had to go first. As always it's just that first step (off the platform) that was scary the rest was fun - I've never done a completely free descent like that (at least not that far). At the bottom it was excellent. I was in a narrow canyon with walls a hundred feet up. There was a stream down the middle which disappeared into caves in each direction. The walls of the canyon were covered with ferns and there were trees overshadowing the narrow fissure, so the light was very green and alive. I savored the ten minutes that I had it to myself. Entry: Just inside the downstream cave we picked up inner-tubes then turned on our lights and headed up stream. The water was very cold and I was really starting to worry about my upper body being exposed! After walking ten minutes we stopped and turned out our lights - suddenly we were outside on a very clear night. It sounds corny, but that's what the glow worms looked like - a desert night sky - all unfamiliar constellations of course. After gazing in wonder for a few minutes we got in our tubes and floated down the stream. The current was very slow so the illusion of being outside was pretty well preserved. Entry: Back at the starting point we continued down stream alternating between floating and walking (the water level was low and in some places the cave wasn't wide enough to accommodate the tubes). Most of the journey was done without light under the faux-stars. There was also a small waterfall (3-4 feet) to jump off. It was cold, but not intolerably so. About a mile into the downstream cave we stopped and had a hot drink (my fingers were so numb I held the cup for a minute before I could feel any warmth). Then we hiked back up the stream with our lights on taking our time to explore the cave formations that had been hidden on the way down. Entry: Back at the bottom of the canyon I realized there was no easy way out. When everyone else had caught up we were told that we had to climb out. One by one we roped up and climbed the 70 feet to the start of a trail. The climb wasn't difficult (lots of hand and toe holds in the rock), but it was fun and I think most of us (there were six of is in total) would have preferred it was higher. Entry: Back in Waitomo I checked at the Information office and found out there was a night train to Wellington. Since I didn't have anything else planned in Waitomo (although the Lost World cavern with its 350 foot abseil was tempting) I decided to book the train. I had a disappointing meal at the only cafe (I hadn't had anything to eat yet), then caught the four o'clock shuttle to Otorohanga - where the train station is. The train doesn't leave until 11:30 tonight so I now had nearly six hours to waste. Set up in the local club and sat down to work on my journal, do email, and read. Entry: About an hour later George, and Australian guy who was also taking the train joined me and we had a beer. About an hour after that Celeine, a French girl joined us for the wait. Several hours (and beers) later when the club started to clear out a couple of the locals joined us - one of them with a guitar, and then Bill, the shuttle driver, and Polly, the bartender, joined in as well. It ended up being a hilarious night and the eleven o'clock came around very quickly. We were the only people getting on the train in Otorohanga but luckil the train wasn't to full so we got seats without a problem. I'll remember Otorohanga as one of the friendliest places I've ever been!

March
16

Wellington, New Zealand
From Otorohanga Found In: End Location: Wellington, New Zealand Route: TranzScenic Train: Otorohanga - Wellington Entry: Arrived in Wellington just after seven pretty much a zombie after trying to sleep in the train seat. Went and had coffee with Ceilene and George and tried to figure out where I was going to stay. Found a place to stay said goodbye to Ceilene and George and caught a taxi to the hostel. The taxi driver was horrible, she wouldn't say a word to me until we got to a house and she said "it is here" I looked at the number (191) and said "no, I want 291" She just kept repeating that it was 291, so I finally just told her to drive up the street and I'd say when to stop - a couple kilometers later I got there. It was just a weird experience because the Kiwis are normally so outgoing and friendly. Entry: While I had a very much needed nap the sun came out. It was still nippy, but the skies were blue as I set out to explore Wellington. Walked down to the water and along the bay. Checked out a lot of shops, but didn't buy anything. Discovered a couple rowing clubs, but no one was around to give me any information. Walked back down to the train station, then back through town. They have a Starbuck's here, so in honor of my sister's birthday (which was yesterday, but at the time it was still yesterday where she is) I had a Laté, and then called her to tell her about it. Entry: The went and explored Te Papa - New Zealand's answer to the Smithsonian. It's a huge modern museum complex. Like most modern museums, the building itself is at least half the show. Inside I explored the natural history and Maori history section before giving up and deciding to come back tomorrow to see more. Entry: What made me give up was the view of the harbor from the third floor - there were two fours heading towards the boathouses I had found earlier! So I decided to wander down and see if I could find a ride. Both boathouses were active now - mostly looked like school clubs. Finally found someone to talk to about club rowing and he said that there really wasn't any organized rowing going on right now, but there was a pickup boat heading out right then. So I unzipped my pant legs and was in a boat for the first time in nearly two years. We took a four out - two other guys, and two women, one coxing. Only one of the others had been rowing recently so it was likely to be interesting. It wasn't pretty rowing, but it wasn't bad either - and it felt great to be on the water again. Paddled around the harbor for an hour mostly by pairs as the wind was blowing. Back at the boathouse I thanked everyone and headed back to the hostel in a great mood. Entry: Was going to go to a movie, but back at the hostel I just couldn't bring myself to go take a shower and change so I ended up in front of the TV.

March
17

Wellington, New Zealand
Found In: End Location: Wellington, New Zealand Entry: Not a very exciting day. It was a bright sunny day and I spent most of it inside. Spent the morning on the phone. First looking to buy a dive computer - I was so impressed by the ones I used in the Poor Knights. Then I arranged a ferry to the South Island and lodging in Picton for tomorrow. Rest of the morning and early afternoon was spent figuring out my next couple stops on the South Island and doing laundry. Entry: When I finally left the hostel I wandered around enjoying the sun. Also got a roll of film developed (from my new camera, mostly sailing in Pitwater and a few from Tasmania and the North Island). Walked around until I was good and lost then spent the rest of the afternoon getting found. I was going to go out for St Patrick's day, but at the end couldn't bother to go by myself, and ended up sitting in front of the TV instead.

March
18

Picton, New Zealand
From Wellington Found In: Route: Ferry: Lynx: Wellington - Picton Entry: Checked out and caught a shuttle bus down to the train station. It's a absolutely beautiful day and I mentioned to the driver that I was disappointed to be traveling on such a perfect day. He pointed out that the ferry ride would be awesome - definitely the right attitude. Caught a metro train to Petrone then hiked a couple kilometers to the dive shop I called yesterday. I looked at several dive computers and ended up buying a used Suunto Spyder. Main reason was the size - it's a largish watch. The owner of the dive store gave me a ride to the nearby ferry terminal. The ferry ride was awesome, especially when we got to the South Island and entered Queen Charlotte Sound. Entry: In Picton checked in to my hostel then walked around the town just enjoying the sun. It's a very small tourist town and it didn't take long to look around. The hostel is excellent - a cute old house, very clean and comfortable with gardens and a hot tub. Spent the evening reading and the night in the hot tub.

March
19

Kaikoura, New Zealand
From Picton Found In: Photo: The beach and mountains, Kaikoura, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Entry: Wandered around Picton, but it was overcast and cold and nothing was open. Had a big brunch, then hung out in the hostel until the shuttle bus arrived. Took the bus to the east coast then south to Kaikoura. As soon as we got near the coast the gray skies turned to blue and it was beautiful. Strange to have sunny skies and beaches right next to mountains with snow on them. Entry: In Kaikoura I checked in to a hostel and made arrangements for the next couple days. Tomorrow was booked, so Tuesday I'm hopefully swimming with the dolphins. Tomorrow I'm booked to go down in a shark cage - they see mostly blues, but some makos, and the occasional white. If the weather stays good I might try to go for a more traditional dive on Wednesday. Entry: Wandered around Kaikoura - it's even smaller than Picton and ended up on the black pebble beach. Dramatic scenery, the snow capped mountains literally rise straight from the beach. Sat in the sun on the beach until the sun started to go behind the mountains. By then the sand fleas were driving me nuts so I packed it in. Watched some TV at the hostel, then wandered out for diner - ran into people I'd met in Rotorua on the street which was kind of strange. Back at the hostel watched Blade Runner then headed for bed.

March
20

Kaikoura, New Zealand
Found In:

Weather: Overcast (Windy) / Partial Sun Photo: The beach and mountains, Kaikoura, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: The beach and mountains, Kaikoura, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: The beach and mountains, Kaikoura, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: The beach and mountains, Kaikoura, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Entry: Got up early only to find that my shark dive had been canceled due to the wind. There was a chance it might be able to go out a couple hours later so I hung out. The later trip was canceled as well - sigh. It was mostly gray and pretty windy so not a lot to do. In the afternoon right after the final chance to dive had been cancelled the wind settled. I was walking across town (about 100m) to confirm my dolphin swim tomorrow when I glanced up just as the sun burst through the clouds - the snow on the mountains was dazzling white, it was incredible. I sat on the beach and just watched the clouds go by for an hour. When the sun started to go down I spent the evening watching videos in the lounge.

March
21

Kaikoura, New Zealand
Found In:

Photo: Dolphins, Kaikoura, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Dolphins, Kaikoura, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Entry: Went out on the dolphin boat, the first group we found was a large pod - maybe 400 Dusky dolphins. Unfortunately the visibility was almost zero so we didn't get in the water. Rather we just sat there and watched there acrobatics - synchronized jumps, spins, races, every movement possible, and lots that didn't seem should be. After watching them for awhile we headed out again to find someplace with visibility so we can get wet. Entry: About ten minutes further we came upon another group - maybe only a quarter as large, but there was some visibility so we got in the water. I went in the first group and the next hour was spent in the water (through both groups - though I didn't realize it). Each encounter would start as a search in the murky water - though almost invariably it would fail and they'd find me. One to ten of them would come charging out of the gloom and circle like crazy. As long as I could spin in circles, or dive under the water, or even just sing they'd stay around. As soon as I lost my breath and had to rest they'd loose interest and vanish, and the search would begin again. I seemed to be a lot more successful that the others on the trip and had an entourage most of the time I was in the water. I was in over an hour before starting to get cold so I headed back to the boat - only to find most people from both groups had already returned. A few minutes later we were on our way back to Kaikoura. Entry: Back in town I tried to get on an afternoon shark dive - only to find they had all been canceled again. I'll try to go again tomorrow morning - if it doesn't happen then I'll skip it. About then it started to rain - very cold rain, so I spent several hours in the spa waiting for the rain to stop, but it never did.

March
22

Christchurch, New Zealand
From Kaikoura Found In:

Weather: Overcast / Rain / Partial Sun Entry: Got up early again, and once again no shark dive. I tried to go back to sleep as last night was very noisy, but it was still way to noisy. Tried again for an afternoon shark dive - but still no luck. Bought a ticket to Christchurch on the afternoon bus. Spent the rest of the day hanging out waiting for the bus. It was cold and rainy outside so basically just watched videos. The bus ride was unexciting but the closer we got to Christchurch the better the weather got. Entry: In Christchurch I checked into a backpackers and went and found an internet cafe. Updeated my journal and delt with some of my email, then wandered around the cathedral square looking at the overpriced tourist shops. Had diner and a few beers with a Norwegian who was on the same bus.

March
23

Christchurch, New Zealand
Found In: Entry: Got to sleep in for the first time in ages! Booked a train to Dunedin and a shuttle to station for early tomorrow morning. Spent the afternoon wandering around in the sun. Christchurch has a very English feel to it - if anything it seems even more like an English town than any English town I've been to in England - almost a Disney version. Did email at an internet cafe - cheap, less than US$ 2 / hour. Entry: I was going to go to a movie, but when I got to the cinema nothing sounded very exciting so I spent a couple more hours at the internet cafe and added identified animals to the Country Index. That's information that I've been putting in my journal since Southern Africa (more than a year ago), but that the journal has never known how to display. Entry: Back at the hostel I got a little concerned because there were these evil looking bugs crawling over the curtains next to the bed. I killed as many as I could and was somewhat reassured that none of them had blood in them. Just to make sure I stripped the bed, moved it away from the curtains and walls and remade it - even so still had trouble falling asleep.

March
24

Dunedin, New Zealand
From Christchurch Found In: End Location: Dunedin, New Zealand Route: TranzScenic Train - The Southerner: Christchurch - Dunedin Entry: Woke up to the alarm exhausted (I almost always wake up a few minutes before the alarm goes off). After getting out of bed I made another discovery - something had been eating me last night! I've got bites all over and they itch like crazy. Then I noticed a couple of last night's bugs on the bed - only bigger - sure enough when I killed them they were full of my blood. After all the dodgey places I've stayed it's strange that my first experience with bed bugs is in New Zealand! Entry: After checking out I waited for my shuttle - when it was ten minutes late I panicked and checked with the reception. They'd made my reservation for fifteen minutes later than they'd told me (and written on my ticket). I don't think I'll be staying at this place when I come back to CH²! Entry: The train ride was nice. Lots of stereotypical New Zealand - rolling green fields dotted with black and white sheep. Also a good bit of it was along the coast. In Dunedin I got hold of the most recommended hostel (agreed by all three guides I have) - all they had left was a double room, but they gave me a discount and I was willing to splurge after last night's nightmare (the bites are really starting to drive me crazy). The room is fantastic - wood floor, antique furniture, a nice double bed with comforter, and live plants - more like what I would expect from a nice B&B than a backpackers! Entry: After arranging a bus to Te Anau for Sunday morning and trying to arrange to rent a kayak tomorrow (just got a message) I headed out on foot. I wandered around Dunedin. It's supposed to feel like Edinburgh, but I really didn't get that. There are some gothic cathedrals and churches, and a few older buildings, but nothing like what I expected. It's also very quiet - and it's very pleasant. Stopped in and sent some email that I wrote on the train. Ended up seeing a movie - "Savage Honeymoon"e; - very funny. While walking back to the hostel I stopping in a little Italian restaurant - it was very nice, warm and authentic and the food was great - and cheap. Restaurants in New Zealand really are very reasonable - even nice ones.

March
25

Dunedin, New Zealand
Via Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin Found In: Stop: Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand End Location: Dunedin, New Zealand Route: Tour Bus: Dunedin - Penguin Reserve - Dunedin Photo: Penguin coming out of the ocean, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Penguin coming out of the ocean, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Penguin coming out of the ocean, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Penguin coming out of the ocean, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: New Zealand Fur Seal, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 134-530 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Yellow Eyed Penguin, Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve, Dunedin, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Entry: In the morning I slept in (yea!) I tried to book a kayak again, but unfortunately it's fully booked through the weekend. I walked into the city center and walked around some more. I booked an evening tour of the Otago Peninsula and a tour of the Yellow Eyed Penguin Reserve since I couldn't get a kayak - at least I'll get to see the peninsula and the rare panguins. Entry: The peninsula wasn't that exciting, but the penguin reserve was pretty good. A welcome improvement on the Phillip Island fairy penguin fiasco. We hiked along the bluffs overlooking the sea and watched the penguins come in. Then walked through a series of trenches that let you get within meters of the birds. They're really quite remarkable - the third largest penguin in the world with a bright yellow stripe around their heads - their behavior is also quite personable, it's easy to imagine you know what they're thinking. Entry: Went out for a bite and a beer and met up with a group of student teachers that were also on the penguin tour (from Detroit). I went out with them and went to a few bars before deciding to head home. Much to my unhappy surprise when I went to set the alarm for my early morning bus I found it was four AM!

March
26

Te Anau, New Zealand
From Dunedin Found In: Route: Bus: Catch-A-Bus: Dunedin - Te Anau Entry: Woke up after three and a half hours of sleep - still under the influence I think. Caught my shuttle to Te Anau and slept the entire way - nearly four hours (I almost never sleep in busses or cars). Checked in at a backpackers and walked in to town. Entry: I checked in at the Fiordlands National Park headquarters just in case the unlikely occurred and there was a cancellation for the Milford Track - there was! Unfortunately it's for tomorrow and I've already paid to go diving. I talked to the boss and she said it was highly unlikely that there would be any other cancellations in the next couple days. The first day of the four day tramp was only five kilometers so I tried to talk her into letting me go a day late and do the entire distance to the second hut. She was unwilling to let me do this because with daylight savings, and the late arrival of the earliest boat to the trail head I'd only have five hours of daylight to do the twenty-two kilometers. She suggested if I could figure out how to get there earlier she let me go. Entry: I spent the next four hours trying to find a ride that would get me there by ten. I talked to the sea plane company, but Tuesday is their service day. I talked to the helicopter charter people and that would work out - until I saw that the cost was going to be 700 New Zealand dollars! Finally I talked to a guy who runs fishing charters. He didn't want to do it, but he said he might be able to for $300 - but he also said that the first two days' trail were easy and doing the distance in five hours wouldn't be a problem. I went back to the park department and begged and wheedled, and finally she agreed to let me go - after making me promise to carry a flashlight and a spare set of batteries. Right after paying, and seconds after being handed the tickets a couple came in to ask if there was any space for two in the next week. There was only space for one of them since I had been granted one - if I had been five minutes later I wouldn't have gotten my spot. Entry: I went back in to town to do some shopping for food and gear, but I ended up buying nothing. I'll do it all tomorrow after the dive. At least I know what I want for food. Had a brief nap, then got up to go to a pre-dive meeting. Got an orientation about the dive, filled out some paper work, and got all the gear together for the dive tomorrow. I had diner with one of the other divers (there are four of us), an Australian guy. We ate at an amazing restaurant in town. There was only one table left and two other people walked in at the same time so they asked if we could share - the food was great, and the company was fun - a perfect travel experience. I walked back to my hostel (just outside of town). As soon as I got away from the lights the stars were amazing. The Southern Cross was laid across the milky way and I had a total deja vue feeling - I remembered walking back to a village (Basse Santa Su?) in the Gambia late one night... and suddenly I was reminded of what an awesome experience I'm having.

March
27

Te Anau, New Zealand
Via Deep Water Basin, Milford Sound Found In: Stop: Deep Water Basin, Milford Sound, New Zealand Photo: Sterling Falls, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Sterling Falls, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Sterling Falls, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Sterling Falls, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Sterling Falls, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: Deep Water Basin, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Mountain Pass, Milford Road, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Mountains and glacier, Milford Road, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Entry: Got up pre-sunrise and waited in the cold for the dive van. I crawled in the back seat with all the equipment, made my self a nest and promptly went back to sleep. Slept most of the one and a half hours to Milford Sound. Woke up just as we were starting to wind down into the fjord (Milford sound is really a fjord). The valley stretched out half filled with dazzeling white clouds - a fantastic view (wish I had taken a picture). At Deep Water Basin on Milford Sound we did battle with the ravenous sand flies as we suited up and loaded the equipment on to the boat. Entry: The first dive was at "The Triangle" - only a ten minute ride out. We got briefed and rolled into the water - it was cold (14°C)! The most exciting thing about this dive was the setting in the fjord - sheer thousand foot walls and five thousand foot peaks plunging into the glassy water. One weird thing was the heliocline - the boundary between the fresh water that runs off the peaks and the salt water from the ocean. It was about three meters down and was very strange - the visibility was fine, but everything was so distorted I couldn't even read the gauges. It was like heat rising from a chimney, or whiskey in water. Other highlights were a four meter high black coral tree (which is actually white in color), some spinney dog sharks, and a ton of big crayfish (lobster). The conditions caused by the steep walls and the fresh water layer means that the life at fifty feet is what you would see at five or six hundred feet in the ocean - but besides the coral I didn't see anything that remarkable. Entry: Between the two dives we had an hour an a half to try and warm up and explore the sound a little. Dave (our skipper and the owner of Tawaki Dive) took us out to the mouth of the sound and dropped us off on a rocky beach. We explored the ruins of an old stone sealing hut and marveled in the fearless birds (mostly fan tails) who would swoop within inches of us to get at the black flies who were attacking. Those flies pretty quickly drove us back to the boat. Entry: The second dive was called "Two Tone" and was about half way back up the fjord. It's called that because there are two very different parts of the dive. The first part was similar to the first dive and included lots of fish and many smaller black coral trees. The second part of the dive was along a wall with lots of little things to see and explore. The highlight there was a giant (three foot?) crayfish and a large red with white spots rock cod(?) of about the same size. The heliocline on this dive was even more apparent and a little deeper. Entry: Because of the thousand meter pass between Milford Sound and Te Anau we have to waste at least three hours after getting out of the water. This is a pretty strange dive profile, because of ascending to altitude - normally you are supposed to wait at least twelve hours - but the dives were short and fairly shallow because of this. We spent the time exploring the sound. Checked out many of the waterfalls, and sat for a long time watching a group of four New Zealand Fur Seals work a large bait ball. Back on shore we took a quick shower, unloaded the boat, and had a quick bite to eat before heading back to Te Anau. The drive back was a bit of a tour - we stopped to take pictures, admire the views, and got to walk around a bit. Entry: Back in town I did a quick gear sorting trying to minimize what I have to carry on the tramp tomorrow. Went shopping for the hike (freeze dried diners, and apples and peanut butter for breakfast and lunch) and had a huge diner. I had lasagna, but was so famished I ordered a pizza afterwards! At least I ended up with some leftovers that will make an excellent lunch on the trail tomorrow. Spent an hour packing, then fell in to bed exhausted.

March
28

Mintaro Hut, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
From Te Anau via Te Anau Downs; Trail Head, Glade Warf, Lake Te Anau; ~4.5 miles, Milford Track; and 11 miles, Milford Track Found In: End Location: Mintaro Hut, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand Route: Bus: Te Anau - Te Anau Downs; Ferry: Te Anau Downs - Glade Warf (North end of Lake Te Anau and the Trail Head); Hike: Glade Warf - Mintaro Hut Lodging: Mintaro Hut Photo: Mountains, Ferry, Lake Te Anau, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: Mountains, Ferry, North end of Lake Te Anau, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: Clinton River bridge, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: North Branch Clinton River, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Photo: Mountains, river, and snow, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 617-305 Entry: Got up early and finished packing. I'm carrying the lightest possible pack. I put all the stuff I was leaving behind in a box and wrapped several layers of tape around it for security. After I finished I realized that I only left one pair of underwear out! Uh oh. I put the excess in storage then hiked to the park office. I still had a half hour until the shuttle left so I left my pack and quickly ran into town. Bought some way overpriced underwear (expensive hiking stuff) and grabbed a quick breakfast. Barely made it back to the bus in time. The ride was short, just 20 km to the ferry terminal. The hour ferry ride was to the north end of Lake Te Anau and very beautiful. Entry: I started up the track as soon as the boat landed - at 11:35. Because I was starting a day late I had to do the fist two days of the trail. The ranger at the office had told me it would start getting to dark to hike at around five. That meant I had less than five and a half hours to walk over 13.5 miles (21.7 km) - the estimated time is seven hours spread over two days. I set a fast pace - I made it a bit of mission. Entry: Since I'm deviating from the accepted way there was a Ranger waiting for me on the trail at the first hut to check me off (I am so special). About four miles in I stopped for five minutes to wolf down the leftover pizza. I stopped a couple times to take some photos, but never took off my pack or sat down. Got to the Lake Mintaro hut at about 4:55 - mission accomplished! Of course it was still plenty light enough to hike until after seven - I could have taken my time. Entry: The really great thing about doing the hike this way is that I hardly saw anyone. I passed a few right off the boat, the ranger at the first hut, and a few more hikers near the guided walk (big $$) hut - but except for that (a total of five minutes) I went the entire day without seeing another person - my ideal hiking conditions. Entry: The dynamics in the hut were a little awkward - every one else had met and sort of gathered into groups last night and on the trail today. I felt a little like an outcast. I talked to a few people, but I was too tired and my feet were really starting to hurt so I headed to bed early.

March
29

Dumpling Hut, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
From Mintaro Hut via Mackinnon Pass, Milford Track Found In: Stop: Mackinnon Pass, Milford Track, New Zealand End Location: Dumpling Hut, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand Route: Hike: Mintaro Hut - Mackinnon Pass - Dumpling Hut

Weather: Rain Lodging: Dumpling Hut Photo: Hikers leaving hut, Mintaro Hut, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Trail, Near Mintaro Hut, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Ferned Gully, Ascending to pass, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Up Clinton valley towards pass, Ascending to pass, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Down Clinton valley towards Lake Mintaro, Ascending to pass, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Down Clinton valley towards Lake Mintaro, Ascending to pass, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Up Clinton valley towards pass, Ascending to pass, Clinton Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Down into Arthur Valley, Mackinnon Pass, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Hikers resting at pass, Mackinnon Pass, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Hikers looking down into Arthur Valley, Mackinnon Pass, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Photo: Mountains, Arthur Valley, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park, New Zealand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 849-000 Entry: Surprisingly I didn't sleep well last night, and annoyingly people started getting up and packing at five - hours before dawn - someone was even using a very loud electric razor! I set off at eight thirty in a light drizzle. The first two hours were up a steep set of switchbacks climbing nearly two thousand feet to Mackinnon Pass. The panoramic views back down the valley toward Lake Mintaro were stunning (also a great excuse to stop and rest). As I approached the pass the drizzle graduated to rain and the icy winds made it seem as if it were raining sideways or even up! It was very cold. The pass is nearly four thousand feet (1,154 m) above sea level, unfortunately the low clouds made for poor visibility and you couldn't see the peaks that surrounded us. But the walls climbing away from us, and the glimpsed views down the valleys were exciting, and the clouds made everything seem closer and more intimate. Entry: At the pass hut I put on every piece of synthetic clothing I had to try and stay warm. The weather seemed to be getting worse, so I didn't stay at the hut long, not wanting to be trapped on the exposed pass. The next two hours were steep down hill - very hard on my knees and feet. Mostly I was miserable and cold - except for when I'd get distracted by the hundreds of waterfalls cascading down the valley walls - then I'd forget to be miserable! The rain got heavier, I was drenched to the bone and my feet and knees were killing me so I opted against the extra two hours of hiking to see Southerland Falls. I did visit with a brown kiwi that was absolutely fearless. At first I thought he was begging, but it turned out that I was standing on top of something that he wanted to eat - he literally pulled things out from under my boots! Entry: The last hour to the hut was especially miserable. I arrived at Dumpling hut at around 2:30 as cold as I've ever been in my life. Spent the evening huddled next to the wood stove and drinking hot water. When I got up to go to bed my bruised feet and the sharp pains in my knees really worried me - the eleven and a half miles tomorrow could be very unpleasant.

March
30

Te Anau, New Zealand
From Dumpling Hut, Milford Track, Fiordlands National Park via Sand Fly Point, Milford Track; and Milford Sound Terminal, Milford Sound Found In: Stop: Sand Fly Point, Milford Track, New Zealand Stop: Milford Sound Terminal, Milford Sound, New Zealand Route: Hike: Dumpling Hut - Sand Fly Point; Ferry: Sand Fly Point - Milford Sound Terminal; Bus: Milford Sound - Te Anau Entry: Slept very well last night! In the morning the rain had stopped and there were a few spots where the sun was even starting to peek through. It still looked pretty threatening and my clothes were still damp so I layered up. Got going about eight thirty and made it about half an hour before I was too hot and had to stop to remove some layers. The trail was gorgeous! Many of the waterfalls had died down, but there was still water cascading off the thousand foot valley walls almost everywhere you looked. As the sun continued to burn off the cloud layer more and more of the snow crowned peaks came into view. Entry: The trail itself was pretty easy - mostly level with the occasional slight slope. My knees which were so worrisome last night are fine today, likewise my feet had recovered. The trail followed the Arthur River, then crossed it and a bunch of tributaries on several scary suspension bridges, before turning and following the shore of Lake Ada. Stopped to take pictures at a couple waterfalls (Makay Falls and a number of unnamed cascades) and took it pretty easy walking and still made it to Sand Fly Point (the end of the track) by one o'clock. That's 11.5 miles (18.5 km) today, and nearly 34 miles (54 km) total! In 1908 the English poet Blanche Baughan described the track as the "finest walk in the world". This has to be an exaggeration, but I can't prove it. Entry: The first ferry wasn't due until two o'clock and it very quickly became apparent why they call it "Sand Fly Point" - the little buggers are ruthless! Took shelter in a small hut built for that purpose, and just sat there trying to keep the weight off my feet. The ferry ride was short but it was spectacular to see the sound in the sun. Got dropped off right next to where the diving boat left from with forty-five minutes until the bus was due so a few of us went over to the cafe for a well deserved beer! The bus ride back was pretty, but was the same drive I did coming back from diving - so nothing too exciting. Entry: Back in Te Anau I tried to check in to the backpackers again, but it was full, so I got a small cabin at the holiday camp (same owners, and adjacent to the backpackers). I was a little disappointed, but was quite thankful when I realized that the backpackers was full of a school group of ten year olds. Did laundry, had an incredible hot shower, and spreaded everything I own out to dry. Finished the day off with an excellent diner and a few beers.

March
31

Queenstown, New Zealand
From Te Anau Found In: Route: Bus: Topline Tours: Te Anau - Queenstown Entry: Had an hour to pack, but nearly didn't make it - with everything spread out so to dry. Unexciting bus ride to Queenstown - there were four others from the track on the bus. In Queenstown I ran into yet another of the trekkers - she'd hitchhiked (at beat those of us who took the bus). I checked in to a nice backpackers and spent three hours getting caught up on my journal. In the evening wandered into town - mostly expensive shops, restaurants, and fronts for high adrenaline (and cost) tourist activities. Did internet then went to a very disappointing Mexican restaurant.

April, 2000

April
1

Queenstown, New Zealand
Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Gray, rainy day. Spent the morning reading. Spent the afternoon / evening wandering around downtown, on the internet, and shopping. It was very chilly so I ended up buying the wool outer shirt I've been looking at. Spent a total of five hours on the internet in three different sessions (my Software page now has a new look). Also bought a new book, considered going to a movie, and had a steak diner - and that's it. Not an exciting day.

April
2

Queenstown, New Zealand
Found In: Entry: Another not so exciting day. At least the sun came out. Spent the day wandering around the dead town, and did some reading. Entry: This is the second time I've written today's entry. Smoke started coming out of my palm top (what I write this on) during the first time. I lost everything that was in main memory, but was able to restore some of it from my memory card. Things seem to be working again, but I'm sure how long it's going to last, or if I'm going to be able to update the journal often (among other things I lost the drivers from my disk drive - so it's back to serial cable transfers).

April
3

Queenstown, New Zealand
Via Pipeline, Skippers Canyon Found In: Stop: Pipeline, Skippers Canyon, New Zealand Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: Pipeline Bungie trip, Pipeline, Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Entry: Woke up at nine with the intention of paying for my room and then going back to bed. But it was a beautfiul day and I started talking with the receptionist, then in a state of temporary insanity I signed up and paid to go bungy jumping this afternoon. Even worse I signed up for a package that includes the highes bridge jump in New Zealand (340 ft / 102 m), and a flying fox ride, and jet boating. Uh, oh... Entry: Walked into town and took care of some errands: post office, coffee, and found an internet cafe that would let my hook up my H/PC (so I could reload some of the software I lost yesterday). And then went to check in at the bungy place in town. Entry: The ride out was a 4WD track and was excellent. Most of it along a road built by the goldminers cut into the face of a cliff with incredible views and a 400 foot drop off - with no guard rail. At Skipper Canyon we've got a bit of a wait - just long enough to walk out on the bridge, look down, and watch a few other people jump. I did the "flying fox" first - basically just a cable across the canyon that you hang from by a pully. It wasn't teribbly scarey though it was quite spectacular. You don't go very fast, so you just sort of glide over the river 380 feet below. Entry: Then it was time for the jump. There were five of us in the group - I went last. Frankly, I was scared. Jumping off a bridge frightens me, not the hight, not the falling, just the unnatural act of actually letting go. This is something I've wanted to try for a long while, and also something I've been putting off. Now I had to sit on the bridge and think about it as four other people got tied in and jumped off. To make things worse they have you sit in an old dentist chair as they strap your feet together and attatch to the actualy bungy. The guy tying me in did his best to distract me, but it didn't work. Then it was time to duck under the cable and step out on to this plank. It really looked a lot farther on this side of the rail. Then the guys started the countdown from five. It really wasn't until I was falling forward that I knew I was going to do it. As soon as I passed the point of no return (remembering that I can't step forward to catch myself) it was over, I had committed and there was no turning back, so in slow motion (from my perspective) I gave it my all and dove as far out as I could. Entry: The fall itself was interesting, but to quick to really think about. The river aproaching as the bungy started to catch was awefully close, but I could really full the cord starting to pull me back. The first bounce was fun - I twisted around to watch the bridge come back. The rest of the bounces just seemed to force the blood into my head. Likewise as I hung there for a few minutes as they lowered me into the waiting jet boat. I'm glad I did it, it scared the hell out of me, not the fall, but having to step off the bridge. I'm glad I was able to force myself to let go and jump. I don't know if I'll do it again, the jump itself really wasn't that thrilling (I had none of the adrenaline rush that I got when I went skydiving), and I think that now that I know I can do it, that first step wouldn't be that exciting again. (I did later buy the video of me jumping though). Oh and I am glad that I didn't wet my pants. Entry: After we were all on the shore at the bottom of the canyon we strapped on life vests and climbed into a big jet boat for a 16 km ride up, then down the Shotover river. It was fun, some beautiful scenery, some small rapids, and a little bit of a shower, just good fun without being scarey. The drive back was beautiful and we stopped to look at the views (the Remarkables looked great in the afternoon light). Entry: Back in Queenstown I got a bite to eat and hit the internet cafe. I got most of the software I need re-installed, but I can't help but wonder how long until my device dies for good. Went back to the hotel and showered and dressed in warm clothing then headed out to meet the guys I jumped with. Ended up and a few different places and had a great time - there were a lot of people from the Kiwi Experience (a bus tour - one of the other jumpers is traveling with them), and a few other random people that knew people int he group from tramps or elsewhere in NZ. In bed around two - it's been a long day.

April
4

Queenstown, New Zealand
Found In:

Weather: Rain / Sunny Photo: View from Sky, Skyline Tram, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: View from Sky, Skyline Tram, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: View from Sky, Skyline Tram, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Photo: View from Sky, Skyline Tram, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-914 Entry: Woke up to rain so went back to bed. Met Sarian who was one of the guilty from last night for coffee then ended up having lunch. During lunch the weather cleared and went from rain to blue skies. So I went to a movie (Stuart Little). The movie was pretty good, the puppets or computer animation (not sure which) was very good. After the movie road up the Skyline Gondola to watch the sun set and wander around checking out the views. The Remarkables in the golden red light were incredible. Entry: Back at the hotel, had a rest, made some phone calls, then headed out to meet the same group from last night. Was going to be a easy night, but turned into a full night out including me making a fool of myself on the dance floor - a good time. Walked back to the hotel around two.

April
5

Queenstown, New Zealand
Found In: Entry: Woke up and started to get going then realized the weather wasn't that great and I wasn't feeling very good - so I went back to bed for a bit more sleep. Woke up feeling better, but still lethargic. Walked in to town and had coffee with a various people from the Kiwi Experience that I ran into. Wandered around, then ended up heading back to the hotel for more sleep. Woke up feeling much better. Wandered into town, had diner and had an easy evening watching a video. Back in my room I spent some more time getting my H/PC back in working order (almost there...)

April
6

Queenstown, New Zealand
Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Blah weather - rained hard all day. Spent most of the day inside - released a new beta of Pike. Walked in to town and did internet - my hand-held is now back in proper form after catching fire the other night. Met up with some of the others for a quick drink - just one this time.

April
7

Queenstown, New Zealand
Via Pipeline, Skippers Canyon Found In: Stop: Pipeline, Skippers Canyon, New Zealand

Weather: Overcast / Rain / Overcast Entry: Another wet day. Spent the day reading and doing errands - email, bought shampoo / conditioner / deodorant, and booked a bus for tomorrow morning to Fraz Josef glacier. In the afternoon I got talked into staying until Monday morning - hoping that the weather will clear so I can do an acrobatic flight in a stunt plane. Took the 4WD trip back out to the Pipeline bungy bridge to be moral support for Sarian (who's terrified of heights - and thus needed a huge cheering section). It took a while and a lot of trembling was involved, but eventually Sarian jumped (or more accurately managed to topple off the platform). I bought a sheep dog whistle - a plastic thing that managed to frustrate me for a couple hours before I figured out how to make it work - now it's very loud.

April
8

Queenstown, New Zealand
Found In:

Entry: Another wet and gray day. Walked into town (practicing on my whistle the entire way). In town checked email called a friend back home, and had lunch. Then I went back to the internet place and spent the entire afternoon getting (mostly) caught up on email (I was nearly two weeks behind) and redesigning the web pages in the Software section of my site. Also finished my book and had a beer.

April
9

Queenstown, New Zealand
Found In: Photo: Me, hang gliding, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 616-356 Photo: Me, hang gliding, Queenstown, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 616-356 Entry: Got up pretty early to beautiful blue skies - perfect for my last day in Queenstown. I'd been planning on doing an acrobatic flight in a stunt plane if the weather was nice, but then last night someone mentioned that they were going hang gliding and that sounded pretty good. Called to see if either had space available for the day - both did. Debated it and ended up deciding to do both. So I booked a noon acrobatic flight and a three o'clock hang gliding trip... looks like I'll spend a good portion of the day in the air! Spent the rest of the morning getting caught up on my journal and started packing (after being here for more than a week my stuff is spread all over). Entry: Got picked up and driven to the airport. The plane is a Pitt Special - it's tiny! Less than six feet high and probably only about 12 feet long! It's a biplane with a canopy - I sat in the front and the pilot sat behind. The ride was short - probably only fifteen minutes. There were lots of loops, rolls, stalls, and even some inverted flight! It's amazing how wrong it feels to be facing straight down or even straight up - I tried not to think of reasons why we were flying over the lake. Actually the flight was a lot smoother than I thought - it felt more like being in a very good IMAX movie than real life - except for the extra G-force (up to +4.5 Gs and -2 Gs!). During the higher Gs (bottom of loops and pulling out of dives) I could notice my vision fading - I don't think it would take much more to make me black out - though I had no problems with queasiness (I did have a headache by the end though). To top it all off the flight was all next to the Remarkables mountain range - stunning scenery. Entry: Back in town I dropped off the photos from the flight (all taken from the wing mounted camera) and had a quick bite to eat. Then it was time to go hang gliding! Drove up to the Coronet Peak ski area - it's a long way down. While the pilots assembled the gliders a helper got me suited up - jump suit, harness, and helmet. The the pilot and I practiced running together and he told me what was going to happen. Then we ran down a very steep hill ending at a drop off. We never made it to the drop off - probably only made it a third of the way down the hill. It was such a smooth transfer that I didn't really know that it had happened and was surprised to be no longer on the ground. It was so peaceful - normal conversation was fine. The control of the glider was simple the pilot let me drive for a bit - swoops and turns. It felt very stable and wasn't in the slightest bit scary. It felt so free, so pure... I could see it easily being very addictive (in fact I didn't meet anyone who had done it who didn't plan on taking it up when they got home). The landing was quite gentle if not graceful - they land on wheels rather than on foot as they would if it was a solo flight. Entry: Back in town picked up the plane photos and dropped off the hang gliding film (also a wing mounted camera). Spent the rest of the day taking care of business (booking a hostel for tomorrow, checking connections for Greymouth and the train to Christchurch, and email / internet). Picked up the hang gliding photos, had diner, and celebrated Peter's birthday (Peter was one of the Kiwi Experience guys I've been hanging out with - we celebrated by waiting until midnight and buying him a slice of cake). While I was on the internet my throat was starting to tickle. By the time I went to bed I had a full blown sore throat and was feeling a bit wrecked.

April
10

Franz Josef, New Zealand
From Queenstown Found In: Photo: The coast, Knights Point, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 616-356 Photo: Tasman ocean in distance, Helicopter ride, Franz Josef, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 616-562 Entry: Woke up feeling shattered - not enough sleep, and I am getting slammed by a cold. A long bus ride through mountains and along valleys to the west coast - it was beautiful, but I wasn't in a very appreciative mode. As we left Queenstown there wasn't a cloud in the sky. As we crossed the mountains and approached the coast a few white puffy clouds appeared. As we approached the glaciers the clouds descended and everything became very gray. We stopped for ten minutes at Fox glacier - I hope that I'll be able to get back there in the next couple days to at least hike to the face. Entry: In the village of Franz Josef I checked into my hostel and asked about the possibility of a helicopter tour. The receptionist called and there was one leaving in five minutes. So I dumped my stuff and ten minutes later was climbing into a helicopter (a first for me). The helicopter ride (like the stunt plane and hang glider from yesterday) was smoother than I expected. The clouds were to low over the Fox glacier so we explored the Franz Josef glacier, Mt. Cook, and the surrounding peaks, ridges, and glaciers. Landed on the top of the Franz Josef glacier and had ten or twenty minutes to walk around on an absolutely flawless sheet of white. Plenty of sun up there above the clouds. There are some spectacular 100+ foot pinnacles of ice and just surreal frozen landscapes on the glacier. Forty minutes after take off we were landing back in the gloom of Franz Josef. I've now done three completely new forms (to me) of air travel in two days - stunt plane, hang glider, and a helicopter - to bad there isn't hot air ballooning available here. Entry: Spent the rest of the afternoon and the evening doing laundry and sitting by the fire reading. Had an early diner, watched the video "Born on the Fourth of July" and gratefully crawled into to bed.

April
11

Franz Josef, New Zealand
Via Franz Josef Glacier Found In: Photo: Helicopter loading, Heli-hike, Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-913 Photo: The main ice falls, Heli-hike, Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-913 Entry: Slept in as long as I could to try and get rid of my cold. Woke up to blue skies, but still not feeling that great. I had intended to go for an all day glacier hike, but decided that probably wouldn't help my cold any good. So instead I booked a half day heli-hike. That way I get a ride up to the good bits then walk around for three hours and get a ride back. I also get a couple more helicopter rides! Spent the rest of the morning eating brunch and wandering around. Entry: Checked in to the heli-hike place put on a pair of steel studded boots and was back in the helicopter. On yesterday's ride there was an older couple on the helicopter with me - today there are four other young hikers and the pilot gave us quite a ride following the contour of the land and swooping and diving. Got dropped off about half way up the glacier (a bit under the ice falls). The weather was mostly sunny with a few white clouds. It took three trips to ferry all the hikers up and in that half an hour the sky complete clouded over. Entry: The glacier walk was incredible. The surreal landscape of ice, with dense rainforest greens to the sides and below, apparently bottomless crevasses and blue ice glowing from the intermitted sun - beautiful. Unfortunately there was one really slow person that held the entire group up (how come there is always one of them?) and the Disneyland-ness of the hike (it was circular and didn't go anywhere) were the only drawbacks. While waiting for the helicopter to come back and pick us up the cloud layer descended and it got cold - fast. It took two loads to get us all down and I had to wait for the second - had to keep moving around to stay warm. Three and a half hours after leaving I was back in Franz Josef. Entry: Spent the afternoon / evening sleeping, on the internet, and eating. Also arranged to go sky diving.

April
12

Franz Josef, New Zealand
Found In: Entry: Woke up to gray / drizzling skies when the sky diving place called to cancel. Spent most of the day in bed. Crawled out to check the internet, and get food. Still fighting this cold...

April
13

Christchurch, New Zealand
From Franz Josef via Greymouth Found In: Route: Bus (Intercity): Franz Josef - Greymouth; Train (TranzAlpine): Greymouth - Christchurch Entry: At least a little blue sky visible - too bad it's time to catch a bus out! Caught an unexciting bus to Greymouth. Checked the baggage in at the train station and set out on a quest to find the Monteith's brewery in the forty minutes until the train leaves. Found it with about twenty minutes - only to find out that the tours take over an hour and there is no public bar. Luckily the manager took pity and opened the bar. Had a quick taste of the six beers they had on tap, bought a souvenir, and rushed to catch the train. Of course the train was late... Entry: The train was the TranzAlpine that runs over Arthur's Pass from Greymouth to Christchurch. This is supposed to be one of the most scenic train rides in the world. It was beautiful, but I wouldn't rate it quite that highly. The really scenic bit is around the pass in the middle of Arthur's Pass National Park. There are surrounding peaks and I bet during the winter or Spring when the would be capped with snow it would really be something. But now they look like large barren sand hills. I probably didn't enjoy it as much as I should have as I was suffering with vertigo because my blocked sinuses wouldn't let me ears equalize - I really need to get some decongestant before tomorrows flight! Entry: In Christchurch avoided the hotel I stayed at last time (the only place I've ever had problems with bed bugs!) and took a shuttle to a recommended place a couple blocks away from the Cathedral. Looked in a few shops, checked email (11 messages - only one was junk mail!), and had diner.

April
14

Sydney, NSW, Australia
From Christchurch, New Zealand Found In: Entry: Spent the morning doing a full repack (for flight), and wandering around Christchurch. Popped into a number of stores including a travel book store where I did something remarkable - I didn't buy anything! Although the new Garmin GPS is so small and quite cheap and was very tempting... Entry: Had a bite to eat, then called home to check on my taxes (they'll be dealt with tomorrow) and see how Mom and Dad enjoyed their week in Mexico (they did). I then had a few minutes to run for the airport shuttle - I made it, but just barely he was getting back into the car as I ran up. Grabbed my baggage, said goodbye and I was on my way to the airport. The airport was pretty unexciting, checked in, paid my departure tax (suddenly felt like I was back in the third world), checked email, then did some duty free shopping while waiting for the plane to begin loading. Actually bought something - I found film to be reasonable and bought a ten pack, plus a couple bottles of New Zealand wine, and a couple T-shirts. A comfortably unexciting flight, except the entertainment system was shot, so no in flight movie. Entry: Susie picked me up at the airport then I rode with her downtown as she finished off the day's work. Ended up having a pub dinner and then I spent the rest of the night getting caught up with the friends episodes which had conveniently been taped.

April
15

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Spent the day downtown shopping and getting some film developed. I've picked out a new phone I want, but luckily it's not available here. Met up in Paddington and Susie and Sof went shopping while I sat in a cafe reading. Had a mini reunion at the Paddington Inn with Susie, Sofie, Dona and Richard, and Gez and Julian showing up to have a few beers and dinner (no chicken ceasar salads anymore!). Finished the night up at the Civic Hotel where we met up with Adam and Buttsie briefly.

April
16

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In:

Entry: I had brunch with Susie and Naomi since Naomi didn't make it to the Inn last night. I was invited to the Swan's game (Aussie rules football) with Susie. We got to the game late because there'd been a time change. Still it was good - 25,042 people, and a very close game. The Swan's (Sydney) were doing terrible for the first quarter we saw, but then at the end of the final quarter they almost made a comeback. The final score was 106-112 Richmond. Spent some time on the internet doing some research (HP repairs, phones, etc.). Had dinner at Aroy Thai (the Thai restaurant I must have tried to go to a half dozen times)with Linda, Susie, Sof and Chris.

April
17

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Called Hewlett Packard's help line and spent nearly an hour navigating the phone system before I got hold of a person. I explained that my H/PC had caught fire and he agreed it should be serviced and gave me the address of a place to take it. On the plus side he's put it in as a waranty claim even through it's nearly five months out of waranty. On the down side they won't accept anything via Australian Post so I either have to deliver it myself or pay a courier. Susie had a bunch of little jobs to do so she agreed to drive me. Stopped by a couple places for her to take care of things then got to the repair place. Found the repair center and turned in my device - unfortunately the 660LX was never released in Australia so they can't give me an exchange so I'm going to be without for awhile... Spent awhile looking for a nice place to have lunch, but we couldn't find anyplace that was open (despite two ferries and I don't know how many miles) and sometime after three we gave up and went to McDonald's. Entry: Back in Sydney spent time at an internet cafe. Then had a great sushi diner with Dean and Susie. After diner dropped by Dean's office to check out his current project and take a look at some pictures / video from the boat trip last February.

April
18

Adelaide, SA, Australia
From Sydney, NSW Found In: Entry: Up to early to get to the airport shortly after seven. Boring (i.e. good) flight to Adeliade. At the airport realized I had no idea where I was going to stay. The place I stayed at last time was Ok, but nothing great, so I decided to try somewhere new and sat down with my guide book. I called a couple places that were full or way to expensive before finding someplace that sounded good, had a good location, and was priced right - plus they'd come out to the airport and pick me up. Waited fifteen minutes at the airport for my ride then went shopping for light fictures! They're remodeling the bar at the hotel and the manager asked if I minded a stop. Entry: At the hotel my room wasn't available yet, so I put my gear in storage and started exploring the area. It's only a couple blocks from the place I stayed last time, but it's pretty interesting - lots of adult book stores, night clubs, and seedy bars. I quickly checked email and had lunch then went back to the hotel to check in - still not ready. This time I walked into town and wandered around the Rundel Street Mall. I decided to look into Palm computers since my handheld is still being repaired. I spent the rest of the evening shopping. I pretty much talked myself into buying one then didn't because I couldn't find what I wanted. Entry: Had diner, then made some long calls, and headed back to the hotel to finally check in. Spent the night reading and having a few beers in the lounge.

April
19

Adelaide, SA, Australia
Found In: Entry: Got hold of Rachel and made plans to pick up my car this evening and go out to diner tomorrow night. Then got a call from Susie - she's got vacation right now so she's going to try to fly into Adelaide and drive up to Alice Springs with me. It will be nice to have the company. Entry: Had a great lunch at a nearby garage-converted-into-a-pub. The food was excellent, and the atmosphere was pretty cool. Spent the afternoon looking into exchanging my phone for one of the new Nokias. It should be easy to do as in theory my phone costs more, but none of the phone stores I visited are interested, so I'd have to sell the phone myself. I'll keep my eyes open, but right now I just can't be bothered. Wandered around some more then hit the internet cafe. Ended up wasting a couple hours in the EBay auctions - started out looking at phones, then got distracted. Also managed to update my journal a little (since my H/PC is in for repairs I have to do this at the internet cafe and it's a lot slower). Entry: Rachel picked me up and we went by her house to pick up a box I left ther, and just hung out talking for a bit. Then we drove over to her parent's house (where I left my car) and hung out there for a bit before I jumped in my car. I was pretty relieved to find it started right up I then started to follow Rachel's directions on how to get back to Adelaide and promptly got lost. Got out the map and figured out where I was and how to get back and a half hour later than I should have been I was back at my hotel. Decided to go back to the garage-pub and had diner and sat around reading and drinking beer. By the time I left several hours later the manager knew my name and I realized how nice it is to be known.

April
20

Adelaide, SA, Australia
Found In: Entry: Spent the morning packing and organizing everything to fit in the car again. Also cleaned up the car some and organized in general. Had lunch at the pub-garage again. The weather wasn't looking so good so I hit the internet cafe and ended up spending most of the day there. Now the Country Index lists the number of photos taken in each country. Entry: Late afternoon Susie called and told me that she wasn't going to be able to pick up my H/PC. That means I won't be able to get it for quite a while since I don't know when I'll be someplace long enough to have it sent. So I went out and bought the P/PC I was so proud of not buying the other day! Oh well! Entry: I went back to the hotel to play with my new toy - fun, but it's nowhere near as good as my other one (though it is alot smaller). Then went out to meet Rachel. Met her, her boyfriend Mitchell, and their friend Sharon at a pub. Had a few beers, then went down the street for a fantastic Indian meal (and a bottle of wine each). Then it was off to another pub for several more beers. Unfortunately (fortunately?) tomorrow is good Friday so all the pubs and bars had to close at midnight. So then the brilliant idea was to go back to Mitchell's for a few more bottles of wine. Next thing I know it's five AM, I'm slaughtered, and I'm supposed to go pick Susie up from the airport in three hours!

April
21

Nuriootpa, SA, Australia
From Adelaide Found In: Lodging: Barossa Gateway Motor Inn

Weather: Overcast / Rain / Partial Sun Entry: Woke up at Mitchell's after less than three hours sleep. Took a taxi to the airport, picked up Susie then headed back to the hotel to sleep for an hour. Went and had coffee then a long lunch - I'm really not feeling to hot at this point. Entry: By the time we actually left the city it was after one. So much for spending the whole day wine tasting. As we drove into the Barossa Valley the second problem with the wine tasting plan became apparent - it's Good Friday. The cellars are all closed - same reason the bars closed early last night. So tasting tomorrow morning. Entry: Had some problems finding accomadation - everyone is here for the long weekend (Easter + Anzac day). Even the campground had a line! After several tries found a hotel and checked in. I tried to work on my journal, but pretty much went straight to sleep. After a wonderful two hour nap I felt much better and we went out to dinner.

April
22

Port Augusta, SA, Australia
From Nuriootpa via Wolf Blass, Barossa Valley; Penfolds, Barossa Valley; Saltram, Barossa Valley; Turkey Flat, Barossa Valley; and Seppetsfield, Barossa Valley Found In: Lodging: Flinders Hotel Entry: Spent the morning and early afternoon at the wineries (finally). Visited five vinyards and tasted 32 different wines. The wines were all pretty good, but there were no great surprises - though I still managed to spend 80 dollars Australian. I bought two bottles of port (one of which was very nice) and a Cabernet - Shiraz blend. Had lunch back in Tananda, hit a final winery, then got on the road. Entry: Wineries:

Wolf Blass (Cabernet - Shiraz)
Penfolds (Tawny Port)
Saltram
Turkey Flat
Seppeltsfield (very nice Tawny Port)

Entry: Drove about 300 kilometers, mostly through green (andvery flat) farmland. Pulled into Port Augusta about an hour after sunset and found a hotel. Had dinner in the pub and called it a night. Unfortunately I could just barely hear the music (I assumed from the pub). I decided to read until the music was over - but gave up and tried to sleep after two. (It turned out that the music wasn't from the pub - it was piped all over the city 24 hours a day!).

April
23

Arkaroola Village, SA, Australia
From Port Augusta via Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges National Park Found In: Stop: Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges National Park, SA, Australia Photo: One of the Flinders Ranges, Flinders Ranges National Park, SA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-913 Photo: The road, Just north of Flinders Ranges National Park, SA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-913 Entry: Easter morning so everything is pretty quiet. Went to the market (Woolworth's was open) and got stuff for lunch then hit the road. The first 200 kilometers was paved. That got us to Wilpena Pound at the entrance to Flinders Ranges National Park. The pictures of Wilpena Pound looked incredible, but there's really no way to see it without going for a plane ride. It's a giant bowl or ampetheatere formed by a ring of mountains - it looked something like Ngorongoro Crater - only larger! Likewise the photos of the ranges themselves looked amazing - long ribbon like ranges of fluid curves. But again really only visible like that from the air. Entry: The drive through the park was beautiful. The roads are gravel, but seem to have been recently graded - with some exceptions. It was especially beautiful in the evening light. Saw tons of emu and kangaroo. Including several that ran right in front of the car. Also drove through Gammon Ranges National Park, but it was getting to dark to see much. Entry: The darker it got the more stressful the driving was. I kept remembering all the kangaroos I'd seen (alive and as road kill), and it was a lot rougher as I couldn't see the road well enough to avoid the worst parts. Pulled into Arkaroola an hour and a half after dark. It was a little creepy - in the middle of nowhere there are some buildings, but there's no one around and no lights. On the door of the campground office is a sign saying to look for staff behind the building. That was surreal, as I turned the back corner of the building there was a huge group of people eating and drinking under strings of colored lights and around a big fire. There were a few campsites left, so we set up the tent and drove back for the Easter roast dinner!

April
24

William Creek, SA, Australia
From Arkaroola Village via South Lake Eyre, Lake Eyre National Park Found In: Photo: Mud we got stuck in, South of Marree, SA, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 605-913 Entry: After studying the maps backtracked thirty kilometers to the track to Leigh River. There checked on the road conditions - still soggy in places, but just opened this morning. In Leigh Creek, a little mining village in the middle of nowhere, we stopped to get gas. In the back of the gas station there was... an internet terminal! So I quickly got to check my email. Entry: Set off on the Oonadatta Track. One hundred fifty kilometers in see some serious water across the road - so I pull to the side of the road to lock my hubs into 4WD. As soon as the wheels hit the side of the road I went into a skid and ended up axel deep in mud. Even 4WD low wouldn't budge the car. Wandering around in the mid-calf deep mud was kind of fun, but the situation wasn't - we were absolutely stuck. And no shovel, sand mats, or winch (not that there's anything to winch off anyway). Entry: About twenty minutes later a family in a big 4WD comes to our rescue. A bit of work with the borrowed shovel, and we were towed back on to the road. The car and our feet and legs are a mess. Luckily the scary puddle didn't cause a problem and even cleaned the car up alot. Entry: The rest of the drive to Marree was relatively smooth. Once there checked on the road conditions again then headed off towards Lake Eyre and William Creek. There was no way we could make it all the way before dark, but there was a campground within reach so the plan was to get there and then re-evaluate. Entry: At South Lake Eyre stopped to appreciate the amazing site - a huge lake streaching over the horizon. The lake only has water in it every 25 or 30 years, and this is the fullest it's been since Australia was settled! Waded in some more mud to get to the water (I wasn't going to bring the car anywhere near mud), took some pictures, and watched the sun set. Entry: Drove off with the most incredible fires burning in the sky. The track was mostly pretty good so at the campgound decided to keep going. The drive was quiet but stressful. The desert night was incredibly black, but the stars were amazing! Pulled in to William Creek (population 10 - Australia's smallest town) just before eight. Set up camp at the pub, had a great dinner, then sat up drinking beer and playing with the resident kids.

April
25

Marla, SA, Australia
From William Creek via Coober Pedy Found In: Entry: Just after leaving William Creek the Oonadatta Track was still closed. No problem since we wanted to head to Coober Pedy anyway. The track was mostly pretty good, though there were a few muddy spots, and many detours around new lakes. For the most part the land is absolutely flat, and, except for the temporary carpet of bright green growth, is featurless. Entry: Coming into Coober Pedy the flatness is interupted by artificial mini-mountain ranges. Welcome to the world opal mining capital. Most of the opal fields we past have offices that are buit into low hills - a good intro to the town proper. A large percentage of the town's houses / stores / restaurants / hotels / etc. are buit underground! It's actually a pretty small town and there's not much here besides inumerable souvenir stores selling opal studded monstrosities. Drove around, filled up the gas tank, picked up some groceries for lunch, and quickly checked my email (yep, there was an internet cafe). All in all it's not an appealing place and I was happy to be on my way. Entry: One bitter-sweet thing that Coober Pedy marked was the return to the paved road. It was very nice to be able to travel relatively quietly and to be able to relax a bit. However, the adventure seems to be over, and the dirt track just fit so much better in the scenery. The 160 kilometers to Marla passed quickly and in just a couple hours we were checking into the travellers facility - pretty much all there is to Marla. After the last two nights of camping, decided to splurge and got a proper room - hot water shower and everything! Did a load of laundry, drank a bottle of wine from my "cellar", and had a very average dinner.

April
26

Yulara, NT, Australia
From Marla, SA via Erldunda Found In:

Entry: In the morning we wasted an hour getting diesel, checking oil / fluids, and scrounging breakfast - ended up settling for Saos & Sara Lee carrot cake. At the turn off to the Lasseter Highway (to Ayer's Rock) there was a pen full of emus. I tried to take pictures, but everytime I stuck the lens of my camera through the fence one of the birds would attack. Even with a barbwire topped fence between us, an agresive six foot bird is still scarey! Entry: As we got closer to the national park I was a little surprised to find myself getting excited. Waiting for my first view of the rock it felt a little like Christmas when I was a kid. The first sight was a good seventy-five miles away, and sadly it just wasn't that impressive - an unhealthy blister of a rock on an otherwise perfectly featureless plane. However as the car got closer and it continued to grow for the next hour and a half so did my opinion of it. Entry: The closer you get to Uluru the more impressive it is. Nearly twenty miles away it seems to dominate the sky. In some ways it is quite eerie - it's presence seems so comfortingly familiar, while at the same time its bulk bewilders your sense of proportion. Entry: There was hardly anyone around. We stopped at the base of the climbing trail (closed due to the weather conditions) and took some photos. Then slowly drove around the rock stopping frequently. It's amazing how many colors the monochrome rock can appear to have. As we drove from the sunlit west side to the shadowy east side the color went from nearly neon orange to a dark ash gray. Entry: Found a parking spot in the sunset viewing lot (this is where everyone is) and climbed on top of the car to watch the light show. As the sun started to set the colors got even brighter - the rock seemed to be glowing. As the sun slipped behind the horizon the fire quickly faded through an uncountable number of distinct colors before settling on black. Entry: Drove back to the campground and then into the resort village for a decent dinner.

April
27

Yulara, NT, Australia
Via Keta Tjuta (The Olgas), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park; Trail head, Valley of the Winds, Keta Tjuta (The Olgas), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park; Valley of the Winds, Keta Tjuta (The Olgas), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park; Return trail, Keta Tjuta (The Olgas), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park; and Trail head, Valley of the Winds, Keta Tjuta (The Olgas), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park Found In: Stop: Trail head, Valley of the Winds, Keta Tjuta (The Olgas), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia Stop: Valley of the Winds, Keta Tjuta (The Olgas), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia Stop: Trail head, Valley of the Winds, Keta Tjuta (The Olgas), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia Route: Car, Hiking, Car Photo: The Olgas, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: The Olgas, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Me, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: The trail, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: The trail, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Valley of the Wind, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: Down the Valley of the Wind, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Up theValley of the Wind, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Valley of the Wind, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: Random Olga, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 413-597 Photo: Flat outback, Valley of the Wind trail, Keta Tjuta, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Entry: Checked on the trail up Ayer's Rock, but it's closed again. Ended up having a huge Brunch at the resort. Also wandered around some of the expensive shops, picked up the photos I'd dropped off last night, and called my mom for her birthday (had to call a few places, but finally tracked her down in a favorite restaurant. Entry: Drove the forty kilometers to the nearby Keta Tjuta rock formations (the Olgas). Stopped for a mini hike to a viewing platform. The Olgas are impressive - about thirty rock mountains, some almost twice as high as Ayer's Rock. Still none match the sheer bulk or raw magic of Uluru. At the Olgas stopped at the main, central trail to look around. It was quite crowded and the short trail didn't interest me so we drove around to the northwest corner to the Valley of the Winds trail. Entry: Even though lacking the monolithic grandure of Uluru Keta Tjuta is beautiful. The rounded mountains look like giant marbles separated by narrow winding canyons hiding surprising green growing places. The first half of the trail is constantly accending. Some of it was alongside a stream, some of it across huge tilted planes of rock, and some of it though the narrow canyons. After a partlcularly steep bit up through an impossiblly narrow and deep canyon we came over a crest and had the most spectacular view. The natural platform was seemingly suspended half way up the narrow canyon. Below the lower half of the canyon was filled with lush vegitation, while straight ahead the canyon walls framed theValley of the Winds and some more of the Olgas beyond. Sat for a bit to admire the view (and catch my breath), then worked down the steep trail and through the greenery into the valley. The hike back was through the valley, and back around one of Olgas that made one of the walls of the hidden garen canyon. Entry: It was a fantastic hike. The only drawbacks were the relative crowds at the beginning and the tireless flies. The flies really were maddening and didn't seem to care that I had practically bathed in insect repellant. Entry: The plan had been to drive back to Ayer's Rock to see if by some slight chance the climb had been opened, but there wasn't enough daylight left regardless. So then we were going to go to the Aboriginal Cultural Center, but by the time we got near it was closed. Out here in the mostly featureless landscape with only the twin giants of the Olgas and Uluru as landmarks - well, it's easy to underestimate distances. Entry: Headed back to camp. Spent the evening cleaning up and just hanging out, then went into the resort village for dinner.

April
28

Erldunda, NT, Australia
From Yulara via Mala trail head, Uluru, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park; Mala trail head, Uluru, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park; Top of Uluru, Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park; and Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park Found In: Stop: Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park, NT, Australia Photo: Looking down , Mala trail, Uluru (Ayer's Rock), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Looking across to the Olgas, Mala trail, Uluru (Ayer's Rock), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Me with the Olgas in the background, Mala trail, Uluru (Ayer's Rock), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Me with the Olgas in the background, Mala trail, Uluru (Ayer's Rock), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Looking towards Mt Conner, The top of Uluru (Ayer's Rock), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: My car in front of Uluru (Ayer's Rock), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Me and my car in front of Uluru (Ayer's Rock), Uluru - Keta Tjuta National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Photo: Inside Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: End of Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Photo: Entrance of Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Entry: The trail starts on the west side of Uluru (Ayer's Rock) and climbs to the highest point (1,131 feet / 348 meters above the surrounding land). The first half hour of the hike is very steep. The rock gives very good traction, but with parts of the climb up a better than forty-five degree slope it's a good thing there's also a chain to help! It's pretty much straight up until near the top of the rock - so no level spots for a rest until you've made it. Once you are at the top it's still another half hour walk along the top until you get to the highst spot. The topography of the top looks like a sine wave - far from flat, but much easier than the climb up. The view from the top (or pretty much anywhere on the rock) is incredible - endless flat desert with the monotony broken by the fantastic Keta Tjuta rocks (the Olgas - 20+ miles away) in one direction, and Mt. Conner (50+ miles away) in the other. As a bonus all the recent rain means that the desert floor is a beautiful green. Entry: The climb down went much quicker, but for me was much more painful. By the end me knees were shaking - I'm very worried about how they'll feel tomorrow. At the bottom I gratefully took my boots off and changed into dry clothing before driving to the nearby Uluru - Keta Tjuta Cultural Center. It was fairly typical - small museum, a short movie, very overpriced souvenirs, and a mediocre cafe. By far the most impressive part of the centre was the architecture - it's great! Entry: Then came the nearly two hundred mile drive to Kings Canyon (Watarrka National Park). By this time there was only an hour of daylight left. Couldn't do any of the longer hikes, so ended up doing a short hike up along the creek to the end of the canyon. Entry: Decided not to camp at the park because it was looking like rain. If it rained there was a very good chance that we could have gotten stranded out there. Plus any miles done tonight would shorten tomorrows drive. Backtracked 150 km to the road to Uluru (all the other roads out were still closed) then drove another hundred kilometers. Pulled into Erldunda (where the emus were attacking me a few days ago on the drive into Uluru) just after nine - got a room, but everything was closed. Ended up having packaged sandwiches at the bar for dinner.

April
29

Alice Springs, NT, Australia
From Erldunda Found In: End Location: Alice Springs, NT, Australia Lodging: Alice Springs Resort Entry: Drove about two hours up the main road to Alice Springs. Drove around looking at the usual pub / hotel accommodation but didn't see anything great. When I went for gas Susie went to the information office and ended up booking a luxury hotel for the last night of her holiday. Entry: After we Checked in and marveled at the decadence we spent some time at the pool - including a fountain and a swim up bar. Had a huge dinner of wallaby, kangaroo, and buffalo in town.

April
30

Alice Springs, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Alice Springs, NT, Australia Entry: Walked down the Todd mall. Grabbed a bite to eat, and put in a roll of film. Dropped Susie off at the airport, and started looking for more modest accomodation. Checked into a backpackers close to the center of town. Spent some time at the internet cafe trying to get caught up on the flood of email (nearly 60 messages). Entry: Tried exploring the city, but it's Sunday afternoon and almost everything is closed. Had fastfood, went back to the internet and worked some more on email and on my mom's site (my birthday gift to her) www.JulitaJones.com. Back at the hostel I watched a video ("Pleasantville") in the lounge. Spent some time on my own working on my journal, and then some more time in the lounge reading. Finished off the night at the hostel's bar - not much for style, but the music was good, and the beer cheap!

May, 2000

May
1

Alice Springs, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Alice Springs, NT, Australia Entry: Just wanted to sleep in, but the car had to be moved by ten. Spent the morning finishing getting caught up in my journal, and called home. Tried to get car serviced, but it turns out May Day is a public holiday so everything is closed (so I didn't need to move the car). Unfortunately it's even worse than yesterday - everything is closed. Ended up having a very long lunch and reading. I tried to go to the internet cafes several times, but they were always packed with a huge waiting list. In the evening sat in the lounge and watched a video and read. Tried the internet again, and decided to read and wait. Nearly an hour later finally got on. Managed to upload my journal. Spent the night reading (finished an incredible book - Bryce Courtneay's Power of One) and watching TV, then hit the bar again.

May
2

Alice Springs, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Alice Springs, NT, Australia Entry: Once again got up early to move the car, but this time went back to bed. Tried to get my car serviced. Drove around to several garages, but the best I could do was to get an appointment for Thursday afternoon - looks like I'll be in Alice until Friday... Entry: Picked up the roll of film I'd turned in on Sunday - nothing too exciting, though there were pictures going back to when I was in Western Australia four months ago. Spent an hour and half at an Internet cafe - mostly writing lost journal entries. Some from as far back as last June in Tanzania. Had a huge dinner which also happened to be my first meal of the day. Back at the hostel I read and watched a video (The Bone Collector).

May
3

Alice Springs, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Alice Springs, NT, Australia Entry: Ended up staying up until after five this morning, so after getting up to move my car I went back to sleep. It was a blah overcast day so I didn't do much. Had a long talk on the phone with Wolf (friend from home). Worked on the internet, went to an all you can eat dinner (my only meal of the day), and read. Back at the hostel watched another video, Runaway Bride (not recommended - it was crap and poorly done). Then, just for variety (since I skipped it last night), went to the hostel bar and had a few beers.

May
4

Alice Springs, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Alice Springs, NT, Australia Entry: Slept in. Dropped car off at garage for a lube job and general service. Had a huge lunch, then wandered around town. Dropped the sarong I bought back in Kalibukbuk (Bali) off to be hemmed so I can start using it as a towel. Went into an internet cafe and serendipitously installed the Windows CE support software. Also updated a number of my pages to more closely match the changes on the home page (including Random Quotes, Quote Search, Who Are You, and the Moon Page. Picked up my sarong, then after picking up my car went back to the internet cafe and hooked up my P/PC and finally got it set up with enough software to really start using it - great, now that I should get my H/PC back tomorrow! Back at the hostel hung out talking then played with the new software and read before heading to the bar where I ended up having way more than the one or two beers I'd planned - and after skipping dinner.

May
5

Alice Springs, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Alice Springs, NT, Australia Entry: At ten o'clock I got up to moved my car - and felt surprisingly Ok. Then when I got in the car I realized I was drunk - went back to bed. Got out of bed feeling pretty grim later in the afternoon. Did some minor shopping, then hit the internet cafe. Back at the hostel packed everything for an easy departure tomorrow. went downstairs for dinner (I decided I was going to eat tonight, unlike last night) before going out to celebrate Cinqo de Mayo . I went to the bar trying to convince anyone who'd listen to have a tequila only night, but after one shot decided that was a bad idea. They have the worst tequila I've ever tasted here. The bar closed pretty early and afterwards I hung out with a bunch of the "locals" (travelers who've gotten stuck here - most of them work here now) around a fire in back - it was cold. Watched a fantastic dawn then realized I needed to be up in not that many hours.

May
6

Alice Springs, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Alice Springs, NT, Australia Entry: Dragged myself out of bed at noon. Went out to the airport to pick up my H/PC and Camera - both having been couriered here after being repaired in Sydney. Unfortunate the airport was deserted and no one answered the numbers I'd been given. Finally got a mobile number for someone who worked at the freight depot, and they gave me the mobile number for the courier depot. Then I had to find the depot which is no where near the airport (about half an hour down the road on the other side of town) - despite both packages being marked hold at airport?! By the time I had everything under control it was three o'clock and I'd resigned myself to another night in Alice. Had a greasy fast food lunch, tried to find an open travel agent to start working out the details for getting to Africa in July, but they were all closed. Spent some time in the internet cafe and then managed to delete all the code to my OnHiatus Software projects. I have a backup (I hope, but it's probably three months and several hundred hour of work old). Went and had an even greasier pizza dinner then went back to the backpackers for the last time. Entry: Looked for my backup, and found it - it's from January. Oh oh, that's a lot of work gone. Copied the journal back to my H/PC, and then to a disk, and dropped by the internet cafe to update my journal. While there, I looked around to see if I had backed up my source code on the net. I had! It's from right before I went to New Zealand so it's still a month of work gone - but it's a lot better than I thought. Finally night in the backpackers bar - a very quiet night for some reason. Probably just as well, as I managed to get to bed reasonably early.

May
7

Barrow Creek, NT, Australia
From Alice Springs Found In: Entry: Painfully got up, packed and checked out. Decided that I really wanted to download Stranger in a Strange Land so that I could listen to it on the drive - I'd bought it yesterday, but didn't have the time to finish downloading it and transfer it to my device. So I went and to the internet cafe, started the download, then went and had an early lunch. When I got back to the internet cafe nothing went right, and I got stubborn and refused to give up. Well, five hours later I did give up and I ended up hitting the road in the late afternoon rather than the early morning. Entry: The drive was a little stressful once it got dark - the only traffic out here is these giant "Road Trains" - big semis with four or even five trailers. When one passes going the other way it almost blows the car off the road. The possible stopping points are very few and far between, and about three hours in I gave up and found a room in Barrow Creek. It's a classic old outback pub, complete with three locals who are up all night singing. Unfortunately the room smells like an old person's house. Looking at the guide book there doesn't seem to be any reason to specifically go to Tennant Creek (where I'd been planning to stay tonight) so tomorrow I'm going to try and make it all the way to Katherine - then Tuesday I can go check out Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park.

May
8

Mataranka, NT, Australia
From Barrow Creek via Devil's Marbles Conservation Reserve; Tennant Creek; and Daly Waters Found In: Lodging: Old Elsey Roadside Inn Entry: Left Barrow Creek and headed up the highway. The first break in the flat bush land was the Devil's Marbles - a bunch of large round boulders scattered around and piled up in unlikely ways. But even more unlikely - there was an ice cream truck parked there! A good hour from the nearest town (and that population 50) out in the middle of the desert. Entry: Tennant Creek (where I was planning on being last night) didn't look like much - a fairly typical outback town destroyed by tourist billboards and souvenir shops. A very long drive put me at Daly Waters an hour before sunset. I was thinking of stopping here and doing the final two hours to Katherine tomorrow morning. It's the site of the territory's oldest pub / hotel. It was funky, but nothing really grabbed me, and they weren't serving dinner for another hour so I decided to keep moving. Ended up at Mataranka a couple hours after dark and found a hotel, but couldn't find a reception office! Finally gave up and went to the nearby bar to see about getting food before driving the rest of the way up to Katherine - and was offered a room. Obviously the bar a hundred yards and several building down the street would be the reception office for the motel. The motel is boring with no character, but the bar is everything I've come to expect in the outback with scraps of paper and posters and old bits of rusty metal covering every square inch of the interior. Had a fantastic dinner of pork cutlets. Entry: Today I crossed the Tropic of Capricorn - and the weather shows it! Where last night I sat in front of a roaring fire tonight I dragged a chair right in front of the air conditioning to write this. It's feeling very tropical - hot and sticky.

May
9

Darwin, NT, Australia
From Mataranka via Trail Head, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park; "Pat's Lookout", Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park; Trail Head, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park; and Katherine Found In: Stop: Trail Head, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia Stop: "Pat's Lookout", Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia Stop: Trail Head, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia Stop: Katherine, NT, Australia End Location: Darwin, NT, Australia Photo: Ridge, Trailhead, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: ?, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: Seventeen Mile Canyon, Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: Seventeen Mile Canyon and gorge face, Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: East end of first gorge, Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: Falls, Southern Rockhole, Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: Falls, Southern Rockhole, Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: Goanna, Southern Rockhole, Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: Goanna, Southern Rockhole, Windolf Trail, Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Entry: Did the hour drive to Katherine, then decided to drive right through to get to Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park. Went for the for longest hike the ranger recommended for a half day - the Windolf Trail (5+ mi / 8.5 km). I was a little worried when the ranger said the temperature on the trail was peaking at 45°C (113°F)! It was hot, very hot, but I don't think it was quite that hot - maybe 35°C (95°F). At least the humidity isn't quite so bad out here, though the air is still a little thick. Entry: The trail wandered up a very steep trail to the top of the first gorge - awesome views of Seventeen Mile Canyon stretching in one direction and the sheer, brightly colored walls of the first of the Katherine gorges in the other. From the gorge the trail cuts across a dusty plateau. It's basically featureless brush interrupted every once in awhile by a cluster of startling red or purple flowers. The trail ends at Pat's Lookout, another fantastic view point - looking down into the end of the first gorge, and over the start of the second. From here a side trail follows a contributing stream down to the Southern Rockhole and then on to river itself. The river is closed to swimming due to Estuary Crocodiles (the kind that eat people), but the rock hole is perfect. A nice deep crystal clear pool at the bottom of a beautiful two stage waterfall. After the hot hike it was nearly perfect - the only drawback was that I had to share it with a dozen other people. Entry: Got back to the car about three thirty - still lot's of time until dark, so instead of spending the night in Katherine I decided to make a run for Darwin. I got within an hour of Darwin when it got dark. I stopped to stretch my legs, make a phone call and get a bite to eat and the continued on. The last hour was painful due to the road trains plus the reduced visibility from a series of short but torrential rains. Finally got to Darwin a little after nine. Checked in to the hostel and sat around reading before calling it a night. It is really hot and sticky here - looking at the map I realized that latitude wise this is about the same distance from the equator as Nicaragua - definitely tropical.

May
10

Darwin, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Darwin, NT, Australia Entry: Walked in to the city center and spent nearly the entire day at the travel agent. I need to get a series of tickets to Cairo, Dar es Salaam and back to Cairo. After looking at the posted fares I realized that an around the world ticket might be the best deal - it's not that much more and would have the advantage of letting me stop and play at some other places on each side. The around the world tickets are a nightmare of conditions and exclusions - wildly different for each of the three packages offered. Figured out that the only one that would really work was the KLM / Ansette / Northwestern / Emirates / etc. offering. I took all the info and went to lunch. After studying all the fine print while eating and over a lingering cup of coffee I had a pretty good plan that would get me back to Africa, let me stop in Sri Lanka on the way, and drop me off in Asia or even back in California afterwards! It was a bit of a nightmare but it looked possible. Called home, looked at fares on the internet, turned in a roll of film, wandered around downtown Darwin, and then headed back to the travel agent. Entry: Another two hours of trying to make a itinerary that gets around all the rules and we've got something that sort of works. I'd have to leave from Melbourne instead of Sydney and it doesn't get me back to California. Also the flight path is convoluted, and the Cairo - Dar es Salaam legs will each take two days going via Khartoum and Nairobi. On the bright side I get a week in Sri Lanka and a few days in Dubai and end up in Bangkok (if I want to go that far). I'm not sure the extra stops make up for the rushing, many legs, the weird routing, the increased travel time and the extra cost. Also I couldn't get a confirmed spot on the Dubai - Cairo leg so I'm waitlisted. Entry: Here's what the resulting itinerary looked like: Sydney - Melbourne - Singapore - Colombo (Sri Lanka) - Dubai (UAE) - Cairo - Khartoum (Sudan) - Nairobi - Dar es Salaam - Nairobi - Khartoum - Cairo. In Cairo is where I planned to end this leg, but if I want to I would have tickets to continue to: Dubai - Bangkok - Sydney. Obviously I wouldn't use the last leg (back to Sydney), but the others might be interesting, and the ticket is changeable (within the mileage restrictions). Entry: I also made reservations for the simple (and cheaper) route: Sydney Singapore - Cairo - Dar es Salaam - Cairo. I got print outs and I'll look it over tonight and try to make a decision tonight. Entry: Spent some more time on the internet, walked back to the hostel, then drove back in to town to have dinner and see a movie. Unfortunately by the time I finished dinner I'd missed all the movies...

May
11

Darwin, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Darwin, NT, Australia Entry: Woke up to hazy weather - hazy seems to mean even hotter and stickier. Drove out to the marina to check out a dive center - booked a couple dives on a W.W.II wreck tomorrow. Then it was back in to the city center and back to the travel agent. The unconfirmed leg on the round the world plan has been confirmed, still waiting to find out about the simple Egypt Air leg. After thinking about it I still can't make up my mind. I really want to go to these other places, but I'm really unhappy with the Cairo - Dar es Salaam and back difficulties (having to go via Khartoum and Nairobi). Right now I'm thinking that maybe I should go all out and do both - maximum flexibility and convenience - also maximum price. Entry: Spent the afternoon checking things off my task list. Went to the post office and sent 22 rolls of film home to be scanned. Had lunch, picked up the film I turned in yesterday (just ten photos from the Milford Track in New Zealand), and did some shopping. Evening was spent at the internet cafe and then trying to work out my travel plans. Tried to call my friend Amy in Morocco to get some input, but failed to get through. Then spent the rest of the night with the maps and the guide books but still no decisions.

May
12

Darwin, NT, Australia
Found In: End Location: Darwin, NT, Australia

Weather: Overcast / Rain / Overcast Entry: For the first time since arriving in Darwin I managed to sleep in - of course it was the one day I didn't want to sleep in. Ended up having to rush to get a bite to eat and get to the dive center on time. It was a fifteen minute ride out through a set of locks and into the Timor Sea. Entry: The first dive was on the wreck of the Meigs, a freighter sunk by Japanese bombers during World War II. Unfortunately the visibility was terrible - maybe ten feet (3m). There wasn't a lot of wildlife, and while the wreck was obviously man made it was nearly fully covered by soft corals and growth. Thus with the limited visibility it was difficult to figure out what anything was. At times it felt like it was a puzzle or brain teaser. The highlight was a large (3+ foot) nearly round fish that would loom out of the gloom then disappear. Entry: The second dive was on the wreck of the Moana Loa, also a W.W.II freighter. The visibility was less, but so were the expectations and it was a very enjoyable dive. The fine silt that covered most of the wreck made the visibility even worse, and it seemed like a night dive at times (visibility less than one foot at times!) The highlight was finding and recognizing a pile of motorcycles mid deck. Entry: After the dive went to the internet cafe and finally got through to Amy in Morocco to work out flight plans. I think I'm going to go with the third option - get the round the world ticket (allowing me to visit Sri Lanka and Dubai) and the Egypt Air ticket (allowing me to do the Cairo - Dar es Salaam - Cairo legs in a reasonable amount of time, and when I want to) - that is if my standby has come through. I'll check in with the travel agent on my way out tomorrow and try to make a final choice. Entry: Had an Ok Mexican dinner, then sat around the hostel reading.

May
13

Cooinda (Yellow Water), Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia
From Darwin via Jabiru; and Nourlangie Rock Found In: End Location: Cooinda (Yellow Water), Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Overcast / Rain Photo: Aboriginal rock paintings, Nourlangie Rock, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Photo: Aboriginal rock paintings, Nourlangie Rock, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Photo: Aboriginal rock paintings, Nourlangie Rock, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Photo: Aboriginal rock paintings, Nourlangie Rock, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Photo: Aboriginal rock paintings, Nourlangie Rock, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Entry: After packing and checking out my first stop was at the travel agent. The Egypt air leg between Cairo and Dar es Salaam hasn't been confirmed, and I'm unwilling to give up the reservation I do have on the around the world ticket until it has been. What's worse is that I'd pretty much convinced myself to do booth the around the world ticket and the convenient Egypt Air legs - but that won't work. If I don't fly on Egypt Air from Australia the faire for the legs I wanted (Cairo - Dar - Cairo) will cost almost as much as the around the world ticket - and more than those two flights plus Sydney - Cairo return!?!? It turns out the the travel agent gets massive discounts on flights leaving Australia and the way the flights were originally booked was as a flight to Dar es Salaam with a layover in Cairo. So looks like I'm back to doing one or the other. Basically if the Egypt Air flight gets confirmed I'll go the simple route (no Sri Lanka or Dubai), otherwise I'll go with the around the world ticket (a little more money and very inconvenient on the Cairo - Dar - Cairo legs, but also more places). Entry: At the turn off for Kakadu National Park I stopped and picked up a couple hitchhiking. They were from Belgium and kept me company for the next couple hours into the national park. They had bought park passes second hand (they're good for two weeks), but got caught by the ranger when they couldn't tell which gate the tickets had been bought at, so they had to buy two more. It was kind of embarrassing, but also kind of amusing. Drove nearly all the way through the park to the visitor center near Jabiru. At the visitor center I figured out what I wanted to do in the couple days I decided to stay here (the Nourlangie Rock area, the Yellow Water area, and Gunlom area). Unfortunately Jim Jim Falls, the park's most famous feature is inaccessible right now. The Belgium couple were going to spend a lot more time in the park, so I dropped them off at Jabiru and continued alone. Entry: I stopped at Nourlangie Rock and spent a couple hours hiking around. This is a large rocks ledge that got left behind when the Arnhem Escarpment eroded back to it's present location. Besides it's dramatic rise from the surrounding forest it's also the site of numerous traditional aboriginal shelters - complete with lots of rock paintings. I purposely decided to skip the Ubirr area of the park which is known for it's rock paintings because I decided I'd seen enough. But these were quite different from most I've seen - the colors are bright and the action lively - they almost made me wish I had gone north to Ubirr. The hike wasn't very long, but in the heat and humidity it wasn't easy and I found it pretty punishing. Entry: I was planning on camping in the Yellow Water area of the park. But the sunny morning had turned to an overcast afternoon which changed to a rainy evening as I approached the camp site. I ended up whimping out and opting for a bunk in a shared trailer (with A/C though!) It turned out to be a good move as it stormed quite heavily for the rest of the evening. I sat under cover and had diner at the small cafe - part of the time with a small frog sitting on my right shoulder! After diner had a beer while listening to a guy play the guitar before heading to bed early. I was in bed shortly after nine - but ended up playing solitaire for an hour and a half. When I came back from brushing my teeth there was a large (three inches long) frog in the middle of the room?! Since my room is, in theory, mosquito proof I can't figure how he got in, but I quickly herded him out.

May
14

Daily Waters, NT, Australia
From Cooinda (Yellow Water), Kakadu National Park via Gunlom Falls, Kakadu National Park; and Katherine Found In: Stop: Katherine, NT, Australia Lodging: Petticoat Junction Highway Inn

Entry: Got up at six to go do a morning boat tour, but when I went outside it was still raining and I decided not to go. Even with a little more sleep I was still able to get an early start. Just outside the lodge I picked up Barry, a seventy four years old hitchhiker. Barry was quite a character - he'd retired four years ago from running a large (2.5 million acres!) cattle station in WA, since then he's been on four nine month hitchhiking trips around Australia! Entry: Drove down through the park then turned off the pavement to the 4WD only Waterfall Creek road. The road was actually pretty good, with only a few rough spots. The 4WD requirement was because of the numerous floodways (max depth around a foot) and a couple patches of sand. The drive in took about 40 minutes. A ranger had recommended the trip to Gunlom Falls when I asked about the currently inaccessible Jim Jim Falls. I figured it probably wouldn't be much - just a consolation to not being able to visit the famous falls. I was wrong, it was a lovely site. A fairly high waterfall dropping in to a deep, large (200 yards wide) round pool - and best of all no crocs, so swimming is safe! Even though, according to the guidebook, part of Crocodile Dundee was filmed there. Barry wasn't to keen on the hike up, so I left him at the bottom and climbed the steep trail (nearly a scramble) up to the top of the falls. Even better! There are several large pools of water for swimming - and an incredible view out over the Kakadu forest. This would have been an incredible spot to camp for a couple days - spending an entire day frolicking under the waterfall and exploring upstream would be fantastic. Shortly after getting back to the pavement I narrowly avoided running over a huge goanna - it stretched across the entire lane, nearly five feet long! Entry: After leaving the park, continued an hour south on the Kakadu Highway until it joined the Stuart Highway. I dropped Barry off another hour down the highway at a river just north of Katherine - he was going to camp and fish for a few days before facing the "big" city (Katherine has a population of less than 8,000). From Katherine I backtracked another three hours to Daily Waters (where I'd stopped at NT's oldest pub on the way north). Daily Waters is where I'll off the Stuart Highway to start east. Since it was five thirty and three hundred kilometers east to the next accommodation I knew I was staying here. I decided to stay at the cheaper modern roadhouse instead of the old pub. Unfortunately I pulled in minutes after a large tour bus so I had to wait nearly an hour while everyone ordered from the kitchen until I could check in. It's a bit ratty, but the skies are starting to look threatening so I decided not to camp again.

May
15

Barkly Homestead, NT, Australia
From Daily Waters via Cape Crawford Found In: Photo: Nothing but road, Tablelands, NT, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Entry: A long driving day. Followed the National Highway (A1 - the highway that circles Australia) as it turned off the Stuart Highway (the north - south highway that goes right through the center of the country) and onto the Carpentaria Highway. The new road is only one lane of pavement with half a lane of gravel on either side. The idea being when two vehicles approach each other they'll both pull off on to the gravel. Luckily there's not a lot of traffic - actually there's not a lot of anything. In the 300 kilometers (180 miles) I did on this road I passed a dozen cars, one windmill, and one turnoff for a cattle station. Even the scenery didn't vary much - the road ran arrow straight through perfectly flat bush country only the density of the trees varied (and not much). Entry: At the Cape Crawford roadhouse I stopped for lunch (a microwaved meat pie), diesel, and a stretch before turning 90° south onto the Tablelands highway. This road is configured about the same, except not as well maintained, and the gravel sides aren't as wide. There is some excitement though - there are turns, and lots of cattle on the road - makes for fairly stressful driving. The cattle are scary as they wait until the last minute to decide if they're going to move for you (they don't always) and it's unpredictable which direction they were going to run - saw several dead on the side of the road. A sure way to wreck my car. A couple hours south the terrain changed - now there is only foot high grass and an absolutely featureless flat plane stretching to the horizon - I can guess why this is called the Tablelands - it makes Kansas look interesting. Entry: The highlights of the day were the wildlife. In the first hour I went across a creek and saw crocs! I stopped to look from the floodway - I think they were freshwater crocodiles (the smaller, less dangerous ones). A bit later I turned the car around to watch a ten foot snake (don't know what kind) vanish into the grass - only stopped at clearings for toilet brakes after that. Also, I saw my first dingo today! Wasn't really exciting it looked just like a dog or maybe a jackal. Another hazard were the giant Wedge-Tailed Eagles - usually feasting on kangaroo roadkill - they're huge and would wait until the last minute to decide to postpone dinner. They're beautiful and big - they must have a five foot plus wing span - sometimes they seemed bigger than the car! Over the last hour of the drive I saw hundreds of kangaroos and a couple wallabies (or maybe unattended joeys). Entry: Got to the Barkly Homestead (just another roadhouse) at the junction of the Barkly Highway (what I'll take east tomorrow) a half hour after a great sunset. In the 4 hours / 400 kilometers / 240 miles I spent on the Tablelands highway I saw one other car! Skies are clear and the rooms are expensive so I pitched my tent had dinner at the roadhouse and headed to bed early.

May
16

Mt. Isa, QLD, Australia
From Barkly Homestead, NT Found In: Entry: Another long driving day. This one was along the relatively busy (passed a car every ten minutes) Barkly Highway. About half way through the day crossed in to Queensland. I've now been in every state and territory in Australia. Pulled into the mining town of Mt. Isa around three o'clock. Tried to check in but the reception at the backpackers in closed until five. Drove around town - it's pretty industrial and not very inviting or quaint. Found an internet cafe and waded through my email. Also realized that I've changed into a new time zone and it's actually half an hour later than I thought it was. At five thirty I checked in to the backpacker then set out to get dinner. I was going to do laundry tonight, but when I got back from dinner I found that reception closed at seven and I couldn't buy detergent...

May
17

Charters Towers, QLD, Australia
From Mt. Isa Found In: Route: Car: Barkly Highway (A66), Flinders Highway (A78) Entry: Alarm went off at seven thirty and after a quick shower and packing I checked out. Decided to change my front left tire - it's very bald and I've been meaning to change it for a week, but it's always been too hot or too wet. There's a piece missing from the jack (I know I'm an idiot for not trying to use it earlier - it looked Ok...), and it took me a while to improvise. Finally got the tire changed and the car put back together. My eight o'clock departure is now a nine o'clock departure. I stopped at the internet cafe to quickly post my journal entries (yesterday I didn't bring the disk) - at it's now a ten o'clock departure. Filled up with gas, got some food - my eight o'clock ended up being nearly eleven by the time I left Mt. Isa. Entry: Another long drive with only a string up towns spaced an hour or two apart. The towns are virtually identical - two gas stations (one of which will be a BP), a butcher, a Woolworth's, and two saddle / tack shops. Just before dusk I drove through White Mountain's national Park, but I couldn't tell the difference from the previous 500 kilometers of bush. My late start meant that I ended up driving after dark. There were tons of kangaroos - both alive and road kill, and it made the drive very stressful. Entry: Finally got to Charters Towers a couple hours after dark. I couldn't find two of the three places listed in the Lonely Planet (found the addresses, but the lodges are no longer there) and didn't feel like camping so I drove around until I found a motel. Had dinner at a nearby pub. The city is a combination of turn of the century Victorian gingerbread facade's and modern ugly. The gold rush influence is obvious and it feels a little like some of the northern Californian towns. The highlight of the day was getting waved over by the police for an "R.B.T." - when I was told this I had to ask, it's a random Breath Test. I've been hearing about these tests since I got to Australia so it was kind of fun to finally get to see one.

May
18

Cairns, QLD, Australia
From Charters Towers via Townsville Found In: Route: Car: Flinders Highway (A78), Bruce Highway (A1) Lodging: International Hostel Entry: Another long driving day. At least today there was some different scenery. Had a long bit of flat marshland leading to some mountains - or at least big hills (the Great Dividing Range). Once I reached the east coast at Townsville I turned north (back on Highway 1 again) towards Cairns. The drive north was through alternating fields of sugar cane and bananas with occasional glimpses of the Pacific. My triumphant return to the beach and sun was marred by the weather - there was no sun. In fact from Charters towers until I got to Townsville it was overcast, and as I headed north it got darker and darker and the occasional drizzle got more and more frequent. In Cairns I quickly found a hostel (there are enough of them!). I called a doctor to make an appointment to look at my ears tomorrow (I've been having trouble with repetitive dives over multiple days for a few years and I want to find out what the problem is before I book a many day dive trip on the reef). Spent the evening doing laundry (which desperately needed doing). After the included dinner at the adjacent pub I sat around reading over a few beers.

May
19

Cairns, QLD, Australia
Found In: Lodging: International Hostel

Weather: Rain Entry: Woke up early to go to the doctor. It's raining and I get drenched on my walk to the car - luckily it's not cold, and I got a cup of coffee on the way. At the clinic I don't even have time to drink my coffee I'm in with the doctor in less than a minute and three minutes later I'm at the pharmacy. From parking the car to driving away is well under ten minutes! Basically the doctor thinks the same thing I do, for whatever reason one of my inner ears isn't adjusting to the decrease in pressure as I accend from a dive. The irritation causes the condition to gets worse over multiple dives. He's prescribed Stemetil 5mg (Prochlorperazine) - one to be taken before diving to try and prevent the irritation and condition. Entry: Back at the hostel I talked with the booking desk and ended up booking a couple dives on the outer reef tomorrow. Unfortunately that means I have to be up very early tomorrow! The rain means that there wasn't much to do so I spent a long time talking about the different trips available. Finaly I opted for one of the cheaper ones - if my ears are fixed, I'll book a multi day trip later. Entry: Spent most of the afternoon on the internet programming - I've been trying to set up a next layout for the photos in my journal and I got fed up and decided to redesign the entire layout engine so that templates are used. This way I can change the layout of journal pages without messing with the journal engine. I'm only playing with one of the photo pages right now, but once I get it working, it will be easy to propigate through the rest of the journal pages. I got the concept to work on the net, and then later wrote the functions to finish it off - maybe tomorrow afternoon I'll get to try them on the web. Entry: Had dinner at the adjacent pub (dinner is included with the price of the hostel). It's pretty strange as the restaruant is quite nice and the food excellent. The service isn't so good - they really treat the backpackers like lepers, but it's kind of funny as well. I just don't know why the deal between the hostel and the restaruant exists. Entry: After I got bored reading I wandered around the Cairns Night Market until they started to shut down at eleven.

May
20

Cairns, QLD, Australia
Found In: Lodging: International Hostel

Weather: Rain Entry: Up early (again) to go diving. Stopped for coffee then walked through the rain to the pier. I was a little early, but it seemed strange that no one was around. Twenty minutes later two girls showed up, but no sign of crew. After the tree of us waited another twenty minutes someone from an adjacent reef boat came over and said that Noah's Ark (the boat we were waiting for) weren't going out today. I really anoyed that they didn't bother to call me at the hostel, or even send someone down to the boat to tell us, but I felt worse for the girls who only had the one day and now weren't going to get to se the reef at all. I talked to the dive boat next door - a large catamaran - and they had space for me so I still got to go - though it cost a bit more. Entry: The weather was horrible - lots of wind and two meter seas. It turned out that of the thirty or forty people on board there were only four divers. Most of the people ended up on the back of the boad being sick, but none of the divers. It took ablmost two hours to get out to the reef, and even tied up in the protection of the reef it was still pretty bumpy. Entry: The first dive was pretty good. The visibility was about fourteen meters (46 feet) so not as fantastic as I had hoped, but a lot better than the last dive in Darwin! Saw lot's of corals (though there were lots of obvious dead parts), tons of brightly colored and weirdly shaped anemones with their attendant clown fish, a good selection of bright tropical fish (though not nearly as many as I expected), and a few different types of nudie-brachs (one kind was very beautfiul - all neon blue and red). The higlight was a huge Ras - apparantly he's always on the reef but normally very friendly. The conditions were far from ideal - lot's of surge - even at 18 m - meant a lot of work getting around. We all went with the dive master instead of heading out on our own. The disadvantage was that he was pretty slow and I didn't think his treatment of the reef and it's inhabitants was very good (he did a lot of touching and prying). The advantage is he knew his way around so we ended up back at the boat and didn't have to swim in the mess on the surface. Entry: After the first dive there was a fantastic lunch - barbecued steak and sausages, four kinds of salad and fruit. Then we hung out, I tried to write in my dive log but it was still too bumpy. After an hour and a half out of the water we headed back in. The tide was lower, so the surge was even worse. The visibility changed a lot on the dive, but I think about seven meters was as good as it got. Saw a lot more of the same as the first dive. The highlight was definitely a decent sized loggerhead turtle (his shell was about three feet across). He was beautiful - no scars and good color - and he didn't seem to mind us being there. It was amazing how much he looked like he was flying when he did decide to leave us - very graceful. There was also a nice swim through where the visibility was a lot nicer. Entry: After we finished the second dive we still had another hour on the reef. I tried to go for a snorkle but gave it up after half an hour - it was to much of a fight on the surface. The ride back was a little longer and a lot rougher. It occured to me that it would have been very unpleasant in the other boat (the one I was signed up to go on) as it was a lot smaller and not a catamaran. Back in Cairns went for a beer, then headed back to the hostel. Complained and got my money back for the no show this morning, prepaid for tomorrow night (so I can finally sleep in) then had dinner. Later met up with some of the divers and had a night out. Nothing too exciting, just bars and pubs, but still managed to stay out until nearly five!

May
21

Cairns, QLD, Australia
Found In: Lodging: International Hostel Entry: Had a glorius sleep in. I paid for my room in advance last night and put ear plugs in when I went to sleep. Got out of bed after noon. Luckily the weather is still blah so it was a good day to waste. Worked on my journal, did some packing, and read. Went out and had a huge late lunch / early dinner. Spent the evening at an internet cafe continuing to work on the journal code (improved photo handling comming soon!)

May
22

Cairns, QLD, Australia
Found In: Lodging: International Hostel Entry: When I woke up this morning I just couldn't make myself pack, so I ended up staying in Cairns another day. Spent the morning reading guide books and trying to come up with a plan for Queensland's north coast. Also spent a lot of time with the travel desk looking at various dive trips to the outer reef. Finally decided on one (3 nights / 4 days on the sailboat Rum Runner), it leaves twice a week, on Tuesday and Friday. Unfortunately tomorrow's departure is full so I have to wait until Friday. Back with the guide books I revised my plans to get me down as far as Townsville via Mission Beach, and then back to Cairns to go out on the cruise. Entry: Spent a long afternoon on the net. Finished the new photo system - see Photos by Country (from the Country Index, for example here's Tanzania and Ethiopia). Back at the hostel the travel desk tells me tomorrow's dive cruise had a cancellation (told this morning that a cancellation was almost impossible) - I'm going! That saves me the 700 km of extra driving (down to Townsville and back). Spend a couple hours exploring the Night Market and the surrounding area, then go back to read.

May
23

Cairns, QLD, Australia
Found In: Entry: Wasted the morning taking care of business. Had everything done and over an hour until I was supposed to be picked up so I sat down at a computer to check email - and my ride showed up, More than an hour earlier than I had expected. Grabbed my bags and asked the driver if we could stop by my car so I could pick up my camera - he said no, they were running late - even though the boat wasn't scheduled to leave for another two hours. While we were waiting at the next hostel for someone else I figured out where the wharf was and asked the driver if I could leave my bag and meet the bus at the wharf. It was only a fifteen minute walk via my car to the wharf and I got there a few minutes after the bus. Entry: Filled out paper work and were told what to expect over a few beers in the pub. Then off to sea. As soon as we got out of the harbor the seas got rough - 2.5 meters (8 foot). My bunk was in the bow and it was so rough that I spent a good part of the night in free fall - luckily, unlike most of the others, I didn't get sea sick - but I didn't get much sleep either.

May
24

Amazing, Holmes Reef, Coral Sea, QLD, Australia
From Cairns via Barra Point; and Nonki Found In: Stop: Barra Point, Holmes Reef, Coral Sea, QLD, Australia End Location: Amazing, Holmes Reef, Coral Sea, QLD, Australia Entry: Crawled out of bed and headed straight for fresh air and the deck - It was still rough out. I risked a dry slice of toast for breakfast but most people were still looking green. Midmorning we pulled into the sheltered waters around the reef. We're at Holmes reef way out in the Coral Sea - about a hundred and twenty miles off the coast - way outside the great barrier reef. There is no land visible, yet as little as three feet below in the crystal clear water the reefs starts. Entry: The First dive was at Barra Point. The visibility was incredible more than 40 meters (130+ feet). We quickly descended to 39 meters (127 feet) - the deepest I've ever been. Then followed along the contour for a while, before turning around and leisurely ascending along a ridge back to the boat. There's tons to look at - all kinds of hard and soft corals and innumerable kinds (and sizes) of fish. My favorite was the very cool looking Clown Triggerfish. It looked like three tropical fish put together - a black belly with very clean white circles, and yellow, white, and orange striped body, and a yellow a black masked face. Back on board we moved the boat a short distance to the next dive site. Entry: The second dive was at a place called "Nonki". A phenomenal dive. The dive was around one large pinnacle starting at 35 meters and rising to about 3 meters. We started at the bottom and did four complete circuits while spiraling to the top. The corals were incredible - the highlight was the giant coral fans back lit in some of the many tunnels and overhangs - would have been perfect for national geographic type photos. There was also tons of fish - the highlights were a giant barracuda and a big school of Big Eyed Travedy. From the bottom looking up through the school you could see the sun rays outlining the thousands of fish slowly spiraling around. When we were level with the school it was almost as if we were involved in some kind of dance the way the fish moved around us. And the spirals from the top were beautiful if not as dramatic from the bottom. Entry: Back on the boat the generator overheated the crew was filling the tanks. No generator means no compressor which means no more air refills. Moved the boat to the site of the next two planned dives. It was decided to save the tanks we have for the night dive so we skipped the third dive and just went snorkeling. There are tons of sharks around and it takes a leap of faith to get in the water. While I have no fear of sharks while diving they make me a uncomfortable when I'm on the surface - I guess the difference is being part of their world or sort of being exposed on the edge of it. The fact that they're quite curious and sweep by inches away doesn't help. But it's all good fun and I think I got some good pictures with an underwater disposable. Entry: The Night dive was pretty good. The visibility was so good that you could clearly see the light color shift from reddish yellow to bluish green depending on how far away it was pointed. I used to find night dives a little scary and stressful, now I find them easy and relaxing. Since this one was guided it was a very much go with the flow type experience. Not exciting or thrilling or wonderful, but nice. Entry: The skipper spent the evening / night working on the generator. With lots of consulting over the radio he got it running again, so tomorrow it's back to diving!

May
25

Amazing, Holmes Reef, Coral Sea, QLD, Australia
Found In: End Location: Amazing, Holmes Reef, Coral Sea, QLD, Australia Photo: Reef, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 791-901 Photo: Reef, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Reef, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Rum Runner's deck, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Sharks, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Sharks, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Sharks, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Sharks, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Sharks, Near Amazing, Holmes Reef, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Entry: The generator ran all night and appeared to be working perfectly. The early morning dive (the first of the five planned dives for the day) was at a nearby spot called "The Cathedral". It was a fantastic dive site. We dropped down on to a deep plateau (~ 140 feet / 45 meters) which just dropped off into the most incredible blue infinity. After just looking into the blue for a bit we made our way up a steep slope covered in scattered hard and soft corals. In the shallows there were sand spots with fresh water springs causing a slight heliocline (ripple effect in the salt water) scattered among coral and rock canyons. Tons of swim throughs - some quite tight - one I almost got stuck in and I thought I was going to have to take my equipment off to wiggle through, but I managed to squeak through. Entry: After getting out of the water and getting our gear off we had a huge proper hot breakfast waiting. Immediately after rushing through the meal it was time to gear up again! The problem with trying to do this many dives in a day is that there is only an hour between dives - and after gearing down and up that leaves about twenty minutes. Entry: The second dive was a drift dive along a coral wall known as "The Abyss". Even a better example of that hypnotic blue. This section of the reef is a vertical wall starting at one meter (3 feet) below the surface and running straight down to more than 1,000 meters (.6 miles). This was also a great dive with the visibility approaching yesterday's first dive - about 130 feet (40 meters). The thing about a drift dive is you don't have to work much, you just sit there and inspect the wall at the depth you've chosen as the current moves you slowly by. And using a computer it's even easier (and safer) as you don't have to be quite so aware of timing for changing depth. We started out at 40 meters (130 feet - my deepest dive) and gradually ascended to the top of the reef over forty minutes. The life on the wall was fantastic, but I was a little disappointed in the deep water life. I was hoping to see a hammer head shark (they're often seen here), but all I saw was a few white tips. Entry: Moved the boat a ways for the third dive: "Turtles Graveyard". It's not even lunch time yet and we were on our third dive! I wasn't all that gung-ho as I didn't want to wear my self out. Still it was a good dive with 35 meter (114 foot) visibility and much shallower with a maximum depth of 23.5 meters (76 feet). The highlights were (again) some swim throughs (all plenty big), a few yellow moray ells, and a large (3 m / 10 ft) Zebra Shark. I didn't know what kind of shark it was (we looked it up in a book later), but you could tell that it wasn't a (very) dangerous one as it had a small mouth - it was very tolerant of us letting us get within a few feet. Entry: After the third dive we had a problem - the generator (and thus the compressor) was failing again. They managed to get the tanks filled one final time before it gave up for good, but that meant we only got one last dive. It was decided to wait until the late afternoon shark feeding dive. Spent the afternoon enjoying the hot sunny (finally!) day. Also did some snorkeling - quite a few sharks around plus some other big fish and the usual small ones. At one point Peter (the onboard diving instructor) used some fish to bait one of the white tip sharks into biting onto a chain and hauled it up on deck for a few seconds. It wasn't huge, but still a good meter and a half with a big mouthful of teeth! I also managed to climb / shimmy / hoist myself up the mast to the crow's nest for some photos. Entry: The fourth and final dive of the day was the shark feeding dive - appropriately at a site called "Preditor's Playground". We were placed on the sandy floor in a large semi-circle. Then some fish guts were dumped off the boat to get the sea life interested. A few minutes after that a huge skewer of fish was lowered on a chain and the sharks moved in. There must have been about fifty of them ranging in size from one to three meters (three to ten feet). Again, it was mostly white tips, but there were also some gray whalers, four silver tips, and a large tawny nurse. It was pretty good, but I've done several shark dives before, and after a while I start to get bored (!) and cold. It's such a passive dive, with no sense of discovery. At the end the dive was cut short due to an aggressive silver tip that wouldn't be herded away. Entry: Shortly after getting out of the fourth dive we said goodbye to Holmes Reef and started steaming back towards the Great Barrier Reef and Cairns. Had a great roast dinner before the seas started to get rough again - though nothing like the ride out! We're still not sure if we'll be able to dive at the reef tomorrow.

May
26

Cairns, QLD, Australia
From Amazing, Holmes Reef, Coral Sea Found In: Lodging: International Hostel Entry: When I woke up the dive boat was only a couple hours out of Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef was already behind us. The compressor was still shot so the dives had been cancelled. We were back on the dock in Cairns by eleven. We were much earlier than expected (due to the skipped dives), so we had to stand around for an hour waiting for a representative of the company to show up. We spent most of the time trying to figure out an approach for getting some money back since we'd missed four dives. We were prepared for a fight but when they showed up they offered us twenty percent back (A$ 100) - what we had hoped for. Just on principle we argued and got a T-shirt out of it as well. Entry: Checked in to the same hostel (I was given a voucher for two free nights when I booked the dive trip through them), and took a wonderful, long shower. Then I met up with George, Abraham, Jenny, Rachel, and Becky (all from the dive trip) and drove out to some nearby falls to go for a swim. It turned out to be a beautiful hot day and the cool pool at the falls was wonderful. After checked email, did laundry, got a roll of film developed, had diner, and made some phone calls (one call, but it took about twenty attempts to get through). Entry: Met up with most of the divers, the dive master, and the cook from the trip. Ended up being a pretty major night covering most of the bars in Cairns - at least the ones that would let us in. Was back in bed shortly after four.

May
27

Townsville, QLD, Australia
From Cairns via Dunkel Point Beach, Clump Mountain National Park Found In: Stop: Dunkel Point Beach, Clump Mountain National Park, QLD, Australia Photo: Beach, Dunkel Point Beach, Clump Mountain National Park, QLD, Australia
Camera: Minolta Vectis 40, Film ID: 133-753 Entry: Woke up feeling a little unsteady after way to little sleep. Went and put some money in the parking meter then packed. After checking out of the hostel I checked email and had an early lunch. I wasn't concerned about an early start since I figured it was no more than a four hour drive. However traffic was worse than expected (I expected none), and road construction everywhere slowed me up a bit. In the early afternoon I decided to get off the road and let the traffic pass - besides I deserved a break. Took some of the side streets through to Mission Beach - a delightful drive through some very serious rain forest. At the coast I turned back north looking for a good place for a break. At Dunkel Point just inside Clump Mountain National Park I found the perfect place. A long stretch of white sand backed by rainforest and more than a few coconut palms - and only three other people way at the other end. I was a little worried about stingers (potentially deadly jellyfish) so I getting wet was restricted to just wading out and dunking my head - but it was still heaps better than sitting in traffic. Spent a couple hours getting wet and drying in the sun, reading, and beach combing. Back on the road most of the construction had quit for the day and traffic was a lot lighter. I ended up getting in to Townsville after dark - a small price to pay for the beach time. Checked into the hostel that I had told the dive company I'd be staying at and had a confusing message from the dive club. Something about changing boats, but all I could really understand was that the weather was looking perfect for tomorrow and that they would pick me up at 6:15 tomorrow morning - hopefully everything is ok. Had a leisurely dinner and got to bed early - though not as early as I wanted to.

May
28

Eungella, QLD, Australia
From Townsville Found In: Entry: Last night after getting ready for bed I double checked the alarm clock only to find it not running. I scrounged another battery then guesstimated the time, being conservative so I wouldn't over sleep. So this morning when the alarm went off after I got up I realized I had 45 minutes instead of 30 minutes before I was to be picked up. I waited in my car in front of the hostel - I didn't like what I saw. Yesterday's clear skies had turned to overcast - I could hardly see any stars in the predawn sky. Even worse, the wind was howling. The drive showed up and confirmed my fears the trip had been cancelled. I had the option of going out to the great barrier reef, but the manager said that I'd probably be disappointed after Holmes Reef so I decided not to. I rode down to the dive shop to get my deposit refunded then went back to bed. Entry: When I got up I had a choice - either hang out and spend the night in Townsville like I'd planned or head out. Since I was looking at a couple hard days driving I decided to get some out of the way and head south. I spent the morning wandering around Townsville - mostly the Sunday market. Also bought a couple books, checked my email, and took a look at the guide book. My first plan was going to be go to Arlie Beach and hang out in the sun in the Whitsundays. But then looking at the guide book I saw that a couple hundred kilometers further and I could go to Eungella National Park - where I could most likely see platypuses! Since I want to see a platypus, and I'm a little sunburned, and that would be more miles done I headed for the park. Entry: Pretty long day of driving. Got to the park just after dark. I found the campground (conveniently at the best platypus viewing spot) and was shocked to find it full. It's Sunday night miles out in to the middle of nowhere, it never occurred to me that there wouldn't be space. I back tracked a few miles into the township of Eungella and found a great lodge. It's called the Eungella Chalet and it's great - big fires, wooden floors, rustic antiques in the rooms, and cheap - everything an Aussie pub should be.

May
29

Yeppoon, QLD, Australia
From Eungella via Mackay Found In: Photo: Bird and morning mist, Broken Bridge, Eungella National Park, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Entry: Up very early. The pre dawn view from the hang glider ramp (!) at the hotel out over the Pioneer Valley was incredible. I was tempted to watch the sun rise, but I was on a mission to see platypuses. Drove back into the national park and hiked down to the viewing platform. There was no one there which surprised me given the nearby campground being full. Sat freezing (couldn't be more that 3°C / 37°C) for fifteen minutes before catching my first glimpse of a platypus. I'm not sure if I saw one or two of them because as soon as you can see one it disappears. But the fleeting shapes in the water were exactly right - a platypus looks like what it should look like (that sounds strange). After I'd been watching for half an hour another couple showed up, then another man, then a group of six. The lone platypus showed up just after the couple arrived, but wasn't to be seen when it got crowded. I left the platform to hiked up the river some, but didn't see anymore platypuses. Drove back to the hotel and up to my room to pack before breakfast. I crawled into bed to warm up and fell asleep. Entry: At ten I finally checked out and drove back down out of the mountains and through the Pioneer Valley to Mackay where I stopped for a huge lunch. It was a bright sunny day, but the wind carried a definite chill and if you weren't in the sun it was cold - I had my heater on most of the day. Long drive south. Turned off the main (Bruce) Highway just before Rockhampton to head towards the Capricorn Coast. Stopped in Yeppoon and explored the beach a little before checking in to the backpackers. It was way to cold and late to go to the beach, and the town itself didn't seem to hold any excitement so I went for a walk. I found a hair saloon that was still open and got my hair cut - short, my first haircut ever with just clippers (#4), but it feels good. After finally getting my haircut I felt like celebrating so stopped at the pub for a few beers during happy hour. It was really cold by then, and I still felt like a drink, so on the way back to the hostel I picked up a bottle of port and had a good conversation about the middle east with the older lady who was running the liquor store. At the hostel I drank my bottle and watched sitcoms with the crowd (Friends, Spin City, Allie McBeal, Sex in the City, and Frasier).

May
30

Torquay, Hervey Bay, QLD, Australia
From Yeppoon via Bundaberg Found In: Entry: Set off reasonable early. I took the scenic route along the coast back to Rockhampton. The beaches looked like they'd be nice on a warm day - but it's a bit gray and definitely not warm out right now. From Rockhampton it was straight south on the Bruce Highway and then east to Bundaberg. My only goal was to see the rum distillery (worshiped by Australians everywhere). I couldn't find it! After half an hour of trying to follow directions I got to the parking lot. Another ten minutes was spent trying to find the reception (it was right in front of me the whole time). I got there twenty minutes after the last tour left. I looked around the shop, walked around the distillery on the outside, and headed out a little disappointed. Pulled into Hervey Bay sometime after dark.

May
31

Kingfisher Bay, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
From Torquay, Hervey Bay via Mary River Heads Found In: End Location: Kingfisher Bay, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia Lodging: Kingfisher Bay Entry: Up early when most of the people in my dorm got up at five to leave for a tour. Goofed off until the ferry ride to Fraser. Stopped at Kingfisher Bay Resort to look around the posh grounds. Walked down to the beach then had a beer while looking at the guide books to try and plan where to go. Predictably ended up staying the night.

June, 2000

June
1

Happy Valley, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
From Kingfisher Bay via Orchid Beach Found In: Lodging: Bronzewing Holiday Units Photo: The Pinnacles rock formations, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Dingo on the beach, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Dingo on the beach, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Coast north of Indian Head, Indian Head sand dunes, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Sand Dune, Indian Head sand dunes, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Entry: Rough sandy tracks through dense forest - definitely 4WD and a decent clearance required. Cut across the island to the eastern beach (Seventy Five Mile Beach). It's a beautiful, seemingly endless beach - an utter waste, but it's used as a highway. Actually it's kind of fun to drive on and much easier than the inland tracks, but it's such a shame - it really is a beautiful beach and even (as slow of time as they get on the island) there are cars zooming by every few minutes). Entry: Stopped at the wreck of Maheno, a ship that was washed up here in 1923. Climbed around on it a bit, took some pictures, and continued on. At Cathedral Beach saw a beautiful Dingo in the sand. stopped twenty meters away to take its picture but it came trotting up to see what we were doing. When it realized there were no handouts it leisurely headed off. At Indian Head the rising tide meant we had to go inland to get around the headlands. Stopped to play in the sand dunes for a while. Headed on to Orchid Beach before stopping - the rising tide scared me. The first six kilometers south of the headlands was very close - soft sand and very little beach left, and it was still two hours to high tide. Backtracked to Happy Valley. There's no camping, but the resort is way to much money and the place suggested in the guide book is being renovated. End up renting a little holiday apartment (with room for six, a kitchen, etc.).

June
2

Eurong, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
From Happy Valley via Lake Waddy; and Lake Mackenzi Found In: Photo: Dingo in forest, Lake Waddy, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Entry: Headed off the beach in to the interior of the island. The tracks are much slower going than the hard sand. Got to above Lake Waddy - beautiful view, the lake with dense forest on one side and a vast stretch of sand dunes to the ocean on the other. Also saw a dingo in the forest here. At Lake Mackenzie hiked down to the beach - beautiful super clear water with a sand bottom gives the lake a gorgeous turquoise color. The sun was out and it was quite warm out of the wind, but the icy breeze meant no swimming. Entry: Drove right through the middle of the island (Central Station) then cut back to the eastern beach at Eurong. Stopped to get something to eat, hung out in the sun for awhile, then ended up staying the night.

June
3

Noosaville, QLD, Australia
From Eurong, Fraser Island via Hook Point, Fraser Island; and Inskip Point Found In: Stop: Hook Point, Fraser Island, QLD, Australia Stop: Inskip Point, QLD, Australia Route: Car: Seventy Five Mile Beach, Tracks, Seventy Five Mile Beach; Ferry: Hook Point - Inskip Point; Car: Stuart Highway (A1) Entry: Missed the turnoff to the lake and ended up at the very southern tip of the island. The sand was a lot softer at that end, plus the high tide made it interesting getting around some of the obstructions. Backtracked to the start of the track and headed inland. Lake Boomanjin - the worlds largest perched lake (whatever that is) - was fuller than typical, so no beach. It wasn't nearly as scenic as the other lakes. Drove back to the beach and back to Hook Point (southern tip). The ferry was pretty wild. It just runs in to the beach and drops a ramp - the cars drive on / off right to the sand - no structures at all on the beach. Entry: Back on the mainland tried to drive south to Noosa Heads on the beach, but the beach was closed to vehicles about ten kilometers down. Back on the paved road stopped at a service station to fill up the tank and re-inflate the tires. A little further on stopped to wash the car, it's the first time since I bought it - I really wanted to get the salt and sand off the undercarriage. In Noosa Heads had some trouble finding a place to stay - it's Saturday night, ended up at a backpackers in the adjacent suburb of Noosaville. Had a Mexican dinner then went to see Mission Impossible 2 (not bad, and mostly filmed in Sydney).

June
4

Brisbane, QLD, Australia
From Noosaville Found In: Entry: Drove into Noosa Heads for a huge breakfast. Ended up in a bookstore - new Tom Robbins, Neal Stephenson, and Tom Clancy - I bought them all. Stopped at the "Giant Pineapple" - a huge kitsch monstrosity off the freeway. Called home for a long talk with the parents - good news, the same day my grandma turned 90 my cousin had a baby girl! Drove the rest of the way into Brisbane looked around for accommodation, ended up at a posh hotel - tomorrow I'll hook up with my friend Jason.

June
5

Morningside, Brisbane, QLD, Australia
From Brisbane Found In: End Location: Morningside, Brisbane, QLD, Australia Entry: Spent a while driving around town exploring, then a lot longer driving around looking for a parking place. All the parking lots here have two meter high roofs - my car is between 2.1 and 2.2 meters tall - learned from experience. Spent most of the day in an internet cafe getting caught up with my journal - I was nearly two weeks behind. Met up with my friend Jason (we traveled together in the UK and Ireland in late 1997). Had diner and several beers in his local pub then stayed up late discussing aboriginal politics (you can imagine how many "several" must be since I no nothing about aboriginal politics...)

June
6

Morningside, Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Found In: End Location: Morningside, Brisbane, QLD, Australia Entry: Had a leisurely morning then drove into town. Walked around the downtown area and did some shopping. The big excitement (and expense) was buying a new parka / shell - it's made out of the new Gortex Packlite fabric so it's very compact and lightweight. Also bought some underwear and batteries. Had a huge lunch and wandered around the Queen Street Mall and then the botanical gardens. An internet check - worked on email today. Also tried unsuccessfully to call friends at home and went out for a cup of coffee. Finally got hold of my travel agent in Darwin - the Egypt Air flight I've been waiting on has still not been confirmed. It looks like I'll probably end up having to take my alternate flight - the one that takes forever to get me where I'm going, but does give me a week in Sri Lanka. Entry: Jason, his roommate Fiona, and I went out for a nice Thai dinner, then came back to the apartment to drink a bottle of wine (a Cabernet I'd brought from Tasmania) and watch The Mummy on DVD.

June
7

Sufers Paradise, Gold Coast, QLD, Australia
From Morningside, Brisbane Found In: Entry: Spent the morning hanging out and trying to get caught up on some email. Midmorning drove in to town. Picked up my new jacket, had a coffee, and checked email. Met Jason for a pub lunch near his work, then headed out of town. The drive to the Gold Coast is all freeway and quick if not very exciting. At Surfers Paradise I wandered around until I found a hostel. After checking in I did laundry, wandered around the neighborhood, and had dinner. I got pressured into going out on an organized pub crawl - it was kind of fun, but mostly made me feel old (the acerage age was probably under twenty). Sometime after two I bailed out and walked back to the hostel. The good news was that I'm already paid up for tomorrow night so I can sleep in (even put in ear plugs).

June
8

Surfers Paradise, Gold Coast, QLD, Australia
From Sufers Paradise Found In: Entry: Slept in! Woke up to gray overcast skies. It was nice and warm, but the weather just didn't motivate at all. Wandered along the beach into the touristy heart of Surfers. Spent over an hour on the phone with my friend Stacy getting caught up and trying to arrange meeting in Egypt to dive in September. Had a huge all you can eat lunch, and hit the internet - email, further changes to the photos by country listing (Namibia for example), and random travel / interest browsing). Wandered around the shops some, but it's all horribly tacky souvenirs or "surf" clothing with two or three hundred percent markups. After the sun set it got a little chilly out so I bought some snacks for dinner and a bottle of port (Wolf Blaas - I visited their cellar in South Australia) and spent the night reading. Around eleven wandered down to the beach to watch the crabs scuttle around and soak my feet before heading to bed relatively early.

June
9

Byron Bay, QLD, Australia
From Surfers Paradise, Gold Coast Found In: Lodging: Main Beach Backpackers

Weather: Overcast / Rain / Overcast Entry: Unexciting drive down the coast to Byron Bay - the road very much reminded me of an suburban Southern California coastal drive (La Jolla, San Clemente, Santa Barbara...) Stopped mid way to call home - I'm considering trying to meet my parents in Thailand and since I'm having to buy the around the world ticket I wanted the dates to be approximately right. Then spent a long while on the phone with my travel agent - because of when my parents are going to be in Thailand I had some extra time so I found someplace else to go on the way - Iran for a week - provided I can get a visa of course. Ended up buying the ticket so at least I've got a way out of Australia. The ticket is fully refundable so if the better ticket does come through I can switch. Entry: In Byron Bay drove out to the cape to take a look at the the lighthouse. Then checked into a hostel and went out to arrange a dive for tomorrow morning - there's a well regarded marine reserve off the coast here. I found a great funky little coffee house / internet cafe. A great atmosphere, cheap, and a fast connection.

June
10

Byron Bay, QLD, Australia
Found In: Lodging: Main Beach Backpackers

Entry: At the dive center early. A rubber boat ride out through the small surf got us to the rocks (Julian Rocks Marine Reserve). The dive was a decent swim to and through a large arch (The Cod Hole). On the way to the arch there was a large swath of sand - and just above the sand were two large (3 m / 10 foot long) and beautiful gray nurse sharks. They didn't seem to mind us and one of them seemed very curious - at least it seemed every time I had my head under a rock I'd look up and there would be this large shark coming towards me from a few feet away. At the bottom of the hole was a small loggerhead turtle that seemed to enjoy or at least not mind us stroking it's back. Also quite a few small woebegone sharks. Entry: As soon as we climbed into the boat a squall hit - hard rain, lighting, and wind. The ride back was very uncomfortable - very cold and the wind driven rain stung! Back on shore I decided not to face the cold again and decided not to go on the second dive - maybe tomorrow morning. Went to check my email at the same internet cafe - most importantly it was warm! Stayed up late reading in front of the hostels fireplace.

June
11

Byron Bay, NSW, Australia
From Byron Bay, QLD Found In: Lodging: Main Beach Backpackers

Weather: Rain Entry: Checked out of the hostel and headed to the dive shop to see if there was a space available on the morning dive before heading out of town - there wasn't. Went and had a breakfast and decided to stick around for the afternoon dive. Spent the morning wandering around in the rain and shopping - bought a pair of shorts. Entry: The conditions were not nearly as good as yesterday but it was still a very nice dive. The boat was mostly filled with students so it was just the divemaster and myself. Or, the divemaster, had an agenda - he wanted to check up on some crayfish, a turtle, an octopus, and hopefully track down a manta ray or two. I was game. The visibility wasn't as nice as yesterday but still not bad (maybe 25 feet). We didn't find the crayfish or the octopus, but Or did track down a lot of interesting things under rocks and in crevasses. A little sleeping "Wobbie" shark was pretty cool as I could pick it up and feel it. A little over forty minutes into the dive (total time just over fifty minutes) we saw a giant (the biggest I've ever seen) manta ray fly by. It was about two meters (7 feet) across the wing tips and it swam (flew) by no more than three meters (10 feet) away! Definitely the highlight and made the dive worthwhile. Entry: Back on shore I just couldn't motivate to face driving in the rain so I decided to stay another night. That way I could also maybe go for a dive tomorrow morning on my way out of town (again). Spent the evening in the internet cafe and the checked back into the hostel. Ended up going out to dinner with Jamie, a guy I met in the lounge last night. Ended up hanging out a mixed group of expats (Irish, Canadian, English, and Kiwi) living in a shared house here in Byron. Got back to the hostel just after four.

June
12

Grafton, NSW, Australia
From Byron Bay Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Woke up to sunlight (or at least brighter gray) coming through the window. Twenty minutes later after checking out of the hostel it was pouring again. Despite the weather I decided to go through with the dive. The surf was up more so even getting out to the marine reserve was difficult - a beautiful set of a dozen two to three meter high waves swept through just as we got the motors running - rough but fun (especially since we managed to stay right side up). Entry: The conditions were worse than yesterday. A two meter swell was running through the mooring. Under the water the visibility was down to no more than fifteen feet. There was a strong surge and current so swimming was a lot more difficult that usual. There were also a few novice divers in the group and one of them ran out of air in less than twenty minutes. The rest of us stayed down, but we had to stay in the area so we couldn't make it to the Cod Hole (where I dove on Saturday). The highlight of the dive was a huge loggerhead turtle (the shell was nearly as long as I am tall!). There were also a number of smaller turtles and a one large woebegone shark - we didn't see any of the big gray nurse sharks that were swimming around here Saturday - but I did pick up a couple of their teeth. Not a bad dive, but still by far the worst of the three dives I did on the rocks. Entry: Back on shore I had a huge lunch, checked email and hit the road. By this time it was three and the road was mostly through built up areas so it was a lot slower than I expected. Gave up driving just after dark and got a hotel room just outside of Grafton instead of going all the way to Coff's Harbor as planned.

June
13

Cessnock, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia
From Grafton via Port Macquarie Found In: Lodging: Cessnock Vintage Inn

Weather: Rain Entry: Boring driving day. Stopped in Port Macquarie to have lunch and call the travel agent (I got a message to call her). There was a problem with the number of stops I had so I had to rearange some flights to bring that number to an acceptable level (did away with the second stop in Dubai and the layover in Taipei which doesn't matter since that where I would get off anyway). Pulled into Cessnock an hour after dark and stopped at the first motel I saw.

June
14

Cessnock, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia
Via Mc Guigan Cellars; Tamburlaine Wines; Calais Estate; Capercaillie Wine Company; Ivanhoe Wines; and Petersons Wines Found In: Stop: Tamburlaine Wines, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia Stop: Capercaillie Wine Company, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia Stop: Ivanhoe Wines, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia Stop: Petersons Wines, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia Entry: Spent the day driving around the valley tasting wine. Went back to a lot of the wineries that I liked when I was here six months ago and went to a few new ones. The Hunter Valley is by far the nicest place to taste in Australia (my opinion). The wines are good, the crowds low, and the people in the wineries are fantastic. It's not at all pretentious. Entry:

Wineries visited:

Tyrrell's Vinyard

Mc Guigan Cellars

Tamburlaine Wines: +61 (02) 4998 7570 (attn: Rhonda)

Calais Estate: +61 (02) 4998 7654 (attn: Rita)

Capercaillie Wine Company

Ivanhoe Wines

Petersons Wines: +61 (02) 4990 1704

Entry: Calais was my favorite for the wines, and Petersons for the people (also great wines). In total tried forty wines from seven winereies and spent a ton of money buying wine and then almost as much sending two cases home. Entry: The Len Evans Theory of Capacity:
There is a awful lot of wine in the world, but there is also a lot of awful wine in the world.
No sensible person drinks to excess, therefore any one person can only drink a certain amount in a lifetime.
There are countless flavors, nuances, shades of wine; endless varieties, regions, styles. You have neither the time nor the capacity to try them all.
To make the most of the time left to you, you must start by calculating your total ruture capacity. One bottle a day is 365 bottles a year. If your life expectancy is another 30 years, there are only 10,000-odd bottles ahead of you.
People who say: 'You can't drink the good stuff all the time' are talking rubbish. You must drink good stuff all the time. Every time you drink a bottle of inferior wine, it's like smashing a superior bottle against the wall. The pleasure is lost forever - you can't get that bottle back.
There are people who build up huge cellars, most of which they have no hope of drinking. They are foolish in over-estimating their capacity but they err on the right side and their friends love them.
There also people who don't want to drink good wine, and are happy with the cheapies. I forgive them. There are others who are content with beer and spirits; I can't worry about everybody.
Wine is not meant to be enjoyed for its own sake; it is the key tp love and laughter with friends, to the enjoyment of food, beauty and humor and art and music. Its rewards are far beyond its cost.
What part is wine of your life? Ten percentum: Ergo, 10 per cent of your income should be spent on wine.
The principle should be applied to other phases of life. A disciple kissed a beautiful young lady and she demurred. He was aghast, and said: "Don't get the wrong idea. I've worked out I can only make love another 1343 times. I'm bloody sure I'm not wasting one on you!"
Read at Petersons Wines.

June
15

Sydney, NSW, Australia
From Cessnock, Hunter Valley Found In: Entry: Left the Hunter reasonably early and was back in Sydney before noon. Spent more than an hour trying to find parking downtown - I'd forgotten about Sydney's traffic. Went buy the travel agent to pick up my tickets which had been sent down from Darwin. Fifteen tickets in all: Sydney - Melbourne - Singapore - Colombo - Dubai - Cairo - Nairobi - Dar es Salaam - Nairobi - Cairo - Dubai - Tehran - Dubai - Bangkok - Taipei - Darwin. Though that lineup will probably change (it's doubtful that I'll be able to get a visa for Iran). Wandered around the city center and did some shopping - picked up a guide book for Sri Lanka, a few novels, and a couple CDs. Entry: Hit the Internet for an hour, then met up with Susie and Belinda for dinner and what turned into a pretty big night.

June
16

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Spent the day taking everything out of the car. Also took out the radio I'd put in and re-installed the old one. Tentatively sorted out what I was taking, what I was sending home, and what was trash. Realized that I couldn't find the registration anywhere so headed to the RTA to get a duplicate. Predictably they wouldn't accept my Washington drivers license as ID and I'd left my passport behind. Raced back got my passport and made it back in time to be the last person helped for the day - amazed myself by not getting lost once! Also called the Iranian embassy and was told a visa would take two to three weeks to process, and furthermore they could only help Australian residents. So no Iranian visa for me here. I'll try again in Cairo, but it's looking doubtful. Entry: Got take out Chinese for dinner and watched the video "Four Rooms".

June
17

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Took the car in for a quick car wash - I really don't have time to have the car properly detailed (or to spend a day doing it myself). Went to the Kings Cross Backpackers Car Market, but they wouldn't accept me without a current Road safety inspection (Pink Slip). On my way to get the slip realized that there were a lot of cars for sale and there didn't seem to be many potential buyers so I decided to put off the Kings Cross market for a few days. Went and got a pink slip then headed down Parramatta road trying various dealers with "Cash for Cars" signs - no one was really interested, one said maybe A$ 1,000 or 1,500 (I was hoping for A$ 5,000). It turns out that this is a bad time for used cars - wrong season, and with the GST coming into effect at the end of the month the cost of new cars is going to come down. I got discouraged and decided to quit for the day. Tomorrow I'll try the Flemmington Car Market. Entry: Spent some time on the Internet then went to hang out with Dean at his new place in Paddington. Then met up with the entire gang (Susie, Naomi and James, Adam, Buttsie, Stephan and Ann Marie, and Dona and Richard). We met at the Four in Hand, but it was incredibly crowded due to a rugby union game so we ended up at the the Windsor Castle (next to Sof and Chris' house). Much later we finished off the night at Kinsela's (where Rebecca joined us).

June
18

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In:

Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain Entry: Spent the day at the Flemington Car Market - about 30 kilometers out of Sydney on Parramatta road. Again, hardly any buyers and I really only had one person even look at the car. So I spent the day reading my Sri Lanka guide book. Found the entire afternoon very discouraging. Had a yummy roast diner with Susie, Dean, Linda, Richard, and Annie.

June
19

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Headed back to the Kings Cross Backpackers Auto Market - this time I'm going to stay. Made it down to the market all right, but then backing into a spot took out one of the garage's light fixtures (the auto market is on one of the lowest floors). Found a different spot, then went up to the office to sign in and pay. After finishing the paperwork I went back down to the car - only to find the market manager insisting that I pay for the light. He was only asking for A$20 (US$ 12), but I was feeling put out and I argued that the sign at the front of the garage said 2.2m clearance so it wasn't my fault. I didn't actually remember seeing such a sign, but I've learned the hard way that my car is 2.1m tall and that most garages are 2 or 2.1m so I always automatically check - so it seemed likely. He finally gave in - later I checked and the sign clearly say 2m - oops. Entry: There are tons of cars for sale and no one looking to buy, so I left my car and caught a taxi to Egyptian Consulate. I can get a visa at the airport, but since I'm going to be in and out of Egypt a couple times, and the last time I'll be there more than 30 days I thought I'd get a multi-entry visa and avoid the hassle of having to deal with getting it at the border. Filled out the paperwork and left my passport then headed back to the car market. Entry: Hung out a couple more hours and talked to some of the other sellers but still no interest from possible buyers. I went to meet Sof at her place for lunch - I was a few minutes early and she wasn't there yet, so I went into the Windsor Castle Hotel next door for a well needed beer. She showed up a few minutes later and had no problem guessing where I was. We headed into Bondi to have a fantastic long lunch. She had a job to run north of the city and since going back to the market just didn't appeal to me I drove along with her. She made some calls for me and I ended up with an an appointment to consult with a doctor regarding my immunization record (yellow card). Finally got back to the market in early evening - still no one around. Hung out another hour then gave up for the day. Entry: Back at the house I got a call inviting me to Dean's for dinner and Monday night TV. Decided not to drive, so caught another taxi to Paddington. The guy who looked at my car at the Flemmington Market called, but he only offered A$ 2,000...

June
20

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Spent the morning at the car market again - no one even seems interested in my car (or anyone elses for that matter - there just aren't many people looking). I went to the doctor to have my yellow card checked to see if I needed any immunization boosters. It turned out that it was mostly a waste of time as the doctor really didn't know what I needed anyway. I did get another prescription of Stemetil (for diving), and I filled out a form that was faxed to a travel immunization center so I'll check back tomorrow to see if I need anything. Entry: Spent the rest of the afternoon at the car market. I had one person express a little interest, but he never came back. I left after dark feeling pretty dejected - I think there is a good chance I'm going to have to sell the car to a dealer at the last minute for almost nothing. I went up to Oxford street, had dinner, made some phone calls trying to get my final travel plans coordinated, then checked email. Took the good bottle of port I'd bought in the Barossa valley (outside Adelaide) over to Sof and Chris' and sat with them for a couple hours.

June
21

Sydney, NSW, Australia
Found In: Entry: Actually managed to get to the Kings Cross Car Market early - in fact I was one of the first people there. It was desperation time on selling the car - it had to be sold today - so I lowered the price A$ 1,000 to A$ 3,500. A group of Israelis almost immediately approached me and looked over the car carefully. I agreed to let them have it inspected by a friend later if they wanted to - after warning them that I'd be away for a couple hours around lunch. Entry: Went back to the doctors as it turns out I need some immunization updates. Talked it over with the doctor and decided to get just a shot for Typhoid. Also got the extra Larium (mephlaquine) I needed and a prescription for doxycycline as the malaria strain in Thailand is supposed to be resistant to Larium. Entry: After a quick lunch I headed back to the car market - only to be met by a couple of the Israelis in front of the garage. While talking to them I got another call expressing interest - again the offer was low, but it gave me some hope to have people interested. We drove the car down to Bondi and were met by a mechanic (also Israeli originally) that the guys somehow knew. One of the guys spoke no English, and the others was very limited so it took a while to get where they were meeting their friend. Then there was the most detailed inspection I've ever seen - nearly two hours worth. The mechanic was good and, having lived in Australia for fifteen years, his English was good so it was really interesting to watch him and ask questions. I could have gotten frustrated quickly but it was obvious that he wasn't finding much wrong. At the end of it all we argued about the price for twenty minutes and I came down a little to A$ 3,250 - nearly the same cost as my next set of plane tickets. We filled out the paperwork and then walked to the bank where I got my money! I kind of wished I hadn't lowered the price, but at least - the Car is sold!! Entry: Having sold the car was a huge load off my back. I wandered around Bondi a little and got my prescription filled then caught a taxi back to New Town. Called my friend Stacy back (she had called and left a message while I was negotiating with the Israelis) - she has just quit her job and is going on an extended trip. We're trying to meet up to dive in the Sinai this September so there were a few details, plus I just think she wanted to talk to someone about her doubts and questions. Checked email then started the dreaded job of packing.

June
22

Singapore, Singapore
From Sydney, NSW, Australia via Melbourne, Vic, Australia Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore Route: Ansett Australia Flight 225: Sydney - Melbourne; Emirates Flight 69: Melbourne - Singapore Entry: Spent the morning finishing packing my pack and two boxes of things to send home. The postage on the boxes (22 kilograms total) cost over a hundred US dollars - and that was surface for the large box and economy for the smaller! Dropped by the Egyptian consulate to pick of my passport complete with a new six month multi-entry visa. It was a beautiful day in Sydney so I spent the couple hours before my flight having lunch with Susie down on Watson's Bay, then hiking around the southern head of Sydney harbor. Entry: The flight to Melbourne ended up leaving nearly an hour late, but there was a long enough layover that it didn't affect my next flight. My new favorite airlines is Emirates. The flight out of Melbourne was absolutely full so I got a free upgrade to Business class. I could get used to that! Tons of room, a lovely toiletries kit, great food, and great service. Entry: Didn't sleep at all on the plane, so by the time I got to Singapore I was a zombie (1 AM local / 3 AM Sydney). Breezed through immigration, collected my pack, and got some cash out of an ATM. Stepping outside I got slammed by the heat and humidity! Decided against trying to find someplace cheap at this hour and went back in side and had the reservation desk call the Metropole - the same hotel I'd splurged on six months ago when I was here. Took a lovely air-conditioned mercedes taxi to the hotel and less than an hour after landing was closing my eyes to go to sleep. Best of all - check out time in Singapore isn't until noon!

June
23

Singapore, Singapore
Found In: Singapore's Flag

Country: Singapore Region: Greater Singapore End Location: Singapore, Singapore Route: Emirates Flight 77: Singapore - Colombia Lodging: Emirates Flight 77: Singapore - Colombo

Entry: Slept in as late as possible. When I checked out it was gray out but dry. However within minutes of leaving the hotel it started to rain. Took cover in the Funan mall and had lunch. Wandered around some shops then spent several hours at an internet cafe. Wandered around some more shops and bought some film. Then, just to do something I took the metro to a random stop (as far as I could go for the cheapest ticket) - there was nothing interesting there so I came back. Called Geraldine and Julian (friends I'd met in Sydney who have just moved to Singapore) but they weren't in so I left a message. It had stopped raining by then so I wandered around some more - but it's so muggy that it's painful to move. Went back to the internet to waste some time then called again, still no one home so I ended up going to a movie (Gone in 60 seconds - not great, but I liked it). Had dinner and caught a cab to the airport. Entry: At the airport I checked in and found out that my flight had been delayed six hours! The good news is that now I won't be getting into Colombo at two in the morning, but the bad news is I'm going to be at the airport all night. Went through customs and tried to check in to the transit hotel - but it was full. Especially since I'd already gone through customs I decided I didn't want to go back to the city. Wandered around the duty free shops for a couple hours then sat down at the airport internet cafe for a few more. Later wandering around I discovered that there are IR ports scattered around the airport - you can just walk up to one, point your laptop (or in my case handheld) at it, and you are on the internet - for free! To bad I'd already caught up on all my email. Wrote a few more just for good measure, and checked with the state department's web page to see the latest notes on Sri Lanka's civil war (nothing new). Then made a quick call home, and went to wait at the the boarding gate - where the plane was delayed yet another hour.

June
24

Colombo, Sri Lanka
From Singapore, Singapore Found In: Route: Emirates Flight 77: Singapore - Colombo Entry: The flight lasted an hour longer due to having to fly around some weather. No problem, as I actually slept through most of it, including the meals! Quickly passed through immigration and customs with no problems. Then spent nearly an hour trying to find the Emirates desk and arranging for a taxi into the city some 20 km away. I was looking for the desk to confirm my tickets - it's in the Departure lounge and the military will not let anyone in without tickets for an immediate departure so I'll have to confirm in Colombo. The taxi had to be bargained with then persuaded that I didn't want to hire it for a week long tour. I originally had planned on heading to the beaches first, then on the plane I decided that since I'm getting over a cold and I want to dive I should save the beaches for last so I should go into the hill country first. Well after getting off the plane and facing the heat I decided I should go and spend a night in Colombo to just relax and adjust. Plus that way I can leave some stuff in Colombo to pick up at the end of the visit. Entry: The ride into town took an hour - it wasn't far, but the roads are small and chaos rules. I let the tax driver suggest a centrally located guesthouse - it's beautiful with tons of flowers and friendly people, it's a little expensive, but I figure I can afford to splurge and extra $5 one night. After settling in and taking a shower I set out to explore Colombo. It turns out my guest house isn't that centrally located - it's two miles into Colombo Fort (the city center). The walk was interesting and after the last dozen hours of being confined to the airport or plane it felt good to walk. Entry: I stopped at the Galle Face Green (a large ocean front patch of dirt that should be lawn) to watch the ocean and eat some pineapple I bought from a street vender. I sat there listening to the small surf and reading the guide book about Colombo. After a while I walked over to the Galle Face - a huge old colonial hotel for lunch. The hotel is impressive it's like something right out of a movie set in Raja times. Everyone is impeccably uniformed and polite - great service and not to expensive. I had some kind of spicy curried chicken soup, and curd (yogurt made from buffalo milk) with honey. After eating I moved to the bar section of the terrace and had a beer while reading. Entry: After leaving the hotel I wandered around a bit but nothing interesting seems to be open so I set back for home. The sun was starting to peek out and it got very hot quickly - much hotter than Singapore and just as humid, but with a nice breeze to keep it tolerable. Found out the the train to Kandy (in the hill country where I've decided to head tomorrow) leaves at seven so it's going to be an early one. Back at my hotel I spent the remainder of the afternoon light sitting on the terrace reading about the hill country and coming up with a plan for Sri Lanka. Back in my room I was relieved to discover I have a guardian gecko! I sat down intending to get up to go to dinner, but then decided against it and stayed in and read.

June
25

Kandy, Sri Lanka
From Colombo Found In: Central Province's Flag

Region: Central Province Route: Train: Colombo Fort - ?, ? - Kandy Lodging: Sharon Inn Entry: The alarm went off at 5:30 but it was nice, cool, and still dark out and I just couldn't motivate to walk two miles with my pack. So I decided to take a bus and went back to sleep. Got up at eight and packed. Even though I thought I was completely packed it still took me an hour to do it - it's been a long time since I've packed for carrying my bag - just as well that I decided not to catch the seven o'clock train as I never would have made it. While checking out I found out that there was another train at 10:30. Caught a "tuk-tuk" (three-wheeler) to the Fort station. The three-wheelers are the perfect way to get around here - cheap, quick and agile in the traffic, and wonderfully ventilated (they're open air). Fort (the city center) is even more heavily fortified than the areas I was in yesterday. There are bunkers with heavy machine around every public building and cars are not allowed within ten yards of the fences (the rebels - the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam - often use car bombs). Entry: At the station bought a second class ticket and still had an hour to waste. Stepped into a little snack shop, sat down, and started experimenting with the local cuisine. These deep fried rolls with curried potatoes and hardboiled egg in them were the best, with these circular cream filled chocolate things a close second. But everything was good and very cheap (stuffed myself and had two cokes for $1), and the service was friendly and I think excited to have me there. I'll find out later how I cope with it. Entry: Was waiting at the designated platform about twenty minutes early. There was already a train there so I asked and was told it was the one to Kandy so I got on. About fifteen minutes later someone else told me it wasn't so I got off and stood nearby just in case. The announcer said something and everybody rushed off the platform and onto a different train - I followed. Luckily on the train I found someone who spoke enough English to tell me what was happening - there was a track problem so the Kandy train couldn't get through - instead I'd have to change trains at the next station. At the next station there was a mad rush to (what I assumed was) the correct train. It was crowded but I managed to get a seat (a window one even) by crossing through a different train and boarding the right one from the track side. Entry: The train ride was long and slow but also stunning. It was interesting to see several rusted out steam engines along the track. The scenery was spectacular - especially once we started to climb into the hills. There was a riot of green broken by random rocky hills and jagged mini mountains. Reminded me of the highlands in Guinea with a touch of Tahiti thrown in. Rice paddies tiered into the hillsides and small villages kept me glued to the window for then entire four hour ride. I tried not to worry about the dozens of wrecked train carriages we passed - especially not the ones at the bottom of the nearly sheer drop offs... Entry: In Kandy caught a tuk-tuk to a recommended guest house. It's wonderful - cheaper than last night, clean tiled floor with beautiful wooden (teak?) furniture, my own spotless bathroom with hot water (!), and my own balcony. It would be a beautiful bed and breakfast place at home. Hired a driver to take me to some of the nearby "Ancient Cities" tomorrow. Settled in, had a shower, and set of to see the town. Entry: The town reminds me a lot of a generic West African city (except the roads are paved and I didn't see any open sewers). It really is amazing how similar people are - even across completely different cultures. I wandered around the lake into the town proper, stopping to quickly check email and buy some water at the supermarket. Walked up the other side of the lake to take a look at the Temple of the Tooth - where one of Buddha's teeth is kept - but didn't go in (wasn't wearing long pants and it was late). The security at the temple was incredible - it was like the entrance to a embassy - multiple bag and body searches and no vehicles allowed anywhere near. Apparently the temple was bombed my terrorist in 1996. Walked further along the lake to look back at the temple then decided to walk all the way around to get back to my guesthouse. Entry: Spent the couple hours until dinner working on my journal and reading. Dinner was a fantastic vegetarian buffet with a small piece of chicken. Predictably, most things were curried - the highlights were the curried bread fruit, and some unspecified (hot) curry sauce.

June
26

Kandy, Sri Lanka
Via Sigiriya; and Polonnaruva Found In: Central Province's Flag

Region: Central Province Lodging: Sharon Inn

Weather: Partial Sun / Mostly Sunny / Rain Photo: Carving at the Vatadage, Dalada Maluva (The Terrace of the Tooth Relic), Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Buddha in Thuparama, Dalada Maluva (The Terrace of the Tooth Relic), Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Buddha in the Atadage (The Tooth Temple of Vijayabahu), Dalada Maluva (The Terrace of the Tooth Relic), Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Rankoth Vehera (The Golden Pinnacled Dagaba), The Alahana Parivena, Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: The Pinnacle of Rankoth Vehera, The Alahana Parivena, Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Sleeping (Dead?) Buddha, The Gal Vihara, Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Sleeping (Dead?) Buddha, The Gal Vihara, Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Sleeping (Dead?) Buddha, The Gal Vihara, Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Sitting Buddha shrine, The Gal Vihara, Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Big sitting Buddha, The Gal Vihara, Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Monkey in ruins of the Tivanka Image-house, Polonnaruva, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Photo: Worlds largest Buddha and Sigiriya Rock in distance, The Dambulla Rock Temple, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-624 Entry: My wake up at 5:30 was very unpleasant. By six o'clock I was in the van on my way to see the ancient cities of Sigiriya and Polonnaruva and the cave temples at Dambulla. Watching the day get lighter and everyone bustling around was interesting, but I just couldn't keep my eyes open and ended up dozing the entire two and a half hour drive to Sigiriya. Entry: Sigiriya is an ancient fortress / city centered around the large Sigiriya rock which rises 200m and is topped by the remains of a heavily fortified palace. I had very high expectations for Sigiriya and I was a little disappointed. The ruins are just the remains of foundations. The entry is through the "Water Garden" - a collection of symmetric water features that have survived fairly intact. The path wanders in to the "Boulder Gardens" where it weaves through and under a collection of giant boulders at the base of the rock. Then there is the "Terrace Gardens" a series of staircases and platforms that actually start to ascend the rock. At the top of the terraces is a spiral staircase that goes up to a gallery of frescos carved into the cliff face. There were originally 500 painting of women but only a handful survive - though those that do are incredibly bright and vivid - they were the highlight of Sigiriya for me. Then there's a long ramp that is partially carved into the face and ends on a large platform not far below the top. The platform is dominated by a large pair of lions paws all that remains of the large lion the marked the entry to the palace. The stairs climb between the paws (and used to go into the lion's mouth) and up to the top. The view is incredible, but all that remains of the structures is some brickwork, stairs, and a few pools. Entry: Another two hours in the car to the ruins of the ancient city of Polonnaruva. On the road caught a quick glance of an elephant - not sure if it was wild or a worker. I though Polonnaruva would be mildly interesting - I was blown away by it. It's spread over a large area and we stopped that car at seven distinct sites: Potgal Vihara, The Citadel, Dalada Maluva (The Terrace of the Tooth Relic), The Ancient City, The Alahana Parivena, The Gal Vihara, and The Jetvana Monastery. We spent a total of about two and a half hours at Polonnaruva. The highlights for me were definitely the Dalada Maluva (The Terrace of the Tooth Relic) and the Gal Vihara. Entry: The Terrace of the Tooth Relic was a collection of about a dozen buildings and was very reminiscent of some of the Mayan ruins in the Yucatan peninsula. Included in the ruins is one of the earlier temples built to hold the Buddha's tooth. The buildings are in good enough condition that I could us my imagination to fill in the details and see what it must have been like. The carvings were detailed and well preserved - entryway moonstones, many Buddhas, and elephants and supporting dwarfs were all over. Entry: The Gal Vihara is a large lump of rock that has been carved into. Three giant Buddha's and a small temple fill it's length. The most impressive to me is the giant (14 m / 46 ft) long reclining Buddha - the detail is amazing and the grain of the rock is clearly visible and just feels right. There is also a large (7 m / 23 ft) standing Buddha and two sitting Buddhas, one of which is in the small temple. Entry: On the two and a half hour drive to Dambulla saw several working elephants. The Sri Lanka's subspecies of Asian elephant has smaller ears than the African, and has a lot of pink on their ears and neck - I also don't think they're nearly as large. As it had already been a long day, there was still a long drive back, and the Dambulla Rock Temples just didn't sound that interesting I almost choose to skip it. But I decided to do a quick visit. If I had realized that the caves meant another long climb to the top of the hill I definitely would have skipped it. Lucky me. The caves were very beautiful and had that "holy" / peaceful feel that you sometimes find in great cathedrals / mosques / temples. The views from the terrace in front of the caves were spectacular and included Sigiriya rock some fifteen miles away. The earliest of the temple caves goes back to the first century BC. The interior of each of the five temples is completely covered with fine paintings and there must be a total of several dozen Buddhas. Entry: I just noticed, or really just noticed that I've noticed, that animals here are not afraid of people like they are in most developing countries. Furthermore I haven't seen a single person kick at any animal - cat, dog, or monkeys even. Buddhism at work? The drive back to the hotel was another long two hours. Finally got back just in time for diner. It had been a very long day - I was gone over 14 hours, and 9 of those had been in the car! Another great dinner then I sat around talking for a bit before falling exhausted into bed.

June
27

Kandy, Sri Lanka
Found In: Central Province's Flag

Region: Central Province Lodging: Sharon Inn

Weather: Rain Photo: An opportunistic monkey with the flower offerings, Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Tooth), Kandy, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Photo: An opportunistic monkey with the flower offerings, Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Tooth), Kandy, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Photo: An opportunistic monkey with the flower offerings, Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Tooth), Kandy, Sri Lanka
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-105 Entry: Slept in until nine - felt wonderful! Packed, checked out of the hotel, then wandered down to see Dalada Maligawa (The Temple of the Tooth). This is Sri Lanka's holiest Buddhist site - it's the temple that houses the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha. Before entering the temple I went in to the Air Lanka office. I had been told that I would be able to confirm my Emirate's flight there. I waited twenty minutes only to be given a phone number and told I had to call. Entry: The security at the temple was incredible. I guess it's understandable - in 1998 the temple was badly damaged by a terrorist's bomb. Entering the grounds there was a thorough frisking and bag search. At the moat I stopped to admire the temple's elephant and even shook it's trunk. He was very cheeky - while trying to get my camera out he kept sticking his trunk in my bag! Leaving my shoes with the minders I crossed the moat and went through an even more thorough search before being admitted to the temple proper. There were a lot of people there, and not very many tourists. I'd paid 50 Rupees extra so that I could take photos, but with so many people praying / meditating I didn't feel right. Snapped a few quick photos then wandered around. The temple itself is a large building housing a large courtyard which contains the relic chamber - a large lavishly decorated (including a gold plated roof visible from anywhere in Kandy) inner temple that actually contains the Buddha's tooth. Or at least the gold box said to contain the tooth. The highlight was the antics of a monkey at a dagoba - he was raiding the offering flowers for tasty bits and wouldn't be chased off. Also of interest is a stuffed elephant (supposedly the only one in the world) - he was the temple's tusker until his in death in the 80's, he had also been declared a national treasure of Sri Lanka. Entry: After I left the main temple area it really started to rain hard so I took cover while exploring some of the nearby temples. The first one I entered had a large reclining (dead? sleeping?) Buddha and was attended by a very young (10 years old?) monk who was very friendly and dragged me all over the small room to look at the Buddha's feet, ear, etc. Entry: Leaving the temple grounds I made it half a block before it started to rain again. I ducked into a patisserie to get something to eat and wait for the rain to slacken. The food was various curry pastries with egg, chicken, or vegetables and were delicious. Sitting there watching the rain I really couldn't motivate to go get my bag, wait who knows how long at the bus station, then sit for hours on a crowded bus to try to get to the beach at Galle. So I decided to stay one more night in Kandy and I'll get an early start tomorrow. Entry: After sitting on hold for twenty minutes I finally managed to confirm my flights through to Cairo. it was still raining hard, so I caught a tuk-tuk back up the hill to my inn and checked in again. Spent the afternoon reading and working on my journal. I'd hoped to get out to the elephant orphanage but the rain never let up. In the evening went down and arranged for a tuk-tuk to pick me up at five so that I cold make the 5:30 train - yuck. Had the best dinner yet, then sat up talking to Heather and Mike, two English med students.

June
28

Unawatuna, Sri Lanka
From Kandy via Galle Found In: Central Province's Flag

Region: Central Province Southern Province's Flag

Region: Southern Province Route: Train: Kandy - Colombo - Galle; Tuk-tuk: Galle - Unawatuna Entry: Up at 4:30. As always a little amazed that the transport I'd arranged the night before was there (even a few minutes early). Bought my ticket and was a good 45 minutes out of Kandy before it started to get light. The mountainous region was so beautiful, so primal, and so universal in the dawn's light - it was as if it was all the good things about all places. Palm trees and mountain ridges, dense green forest, and miniature deserts of rock. That first hour of light out of Kandy has to be the most beautiful train ride ever. Maybe it was the lack of sleep but I also had that rare realization of where I was and how charmed my life has been and I just sat there with a stupid grin. Entry: The train passed through Colombo and then followed the coast to Galle - endless stretches of narrow beach with choppy storm surf. We got to Galle just over six hours after leaving Kandy - not to bad, I'd been prepared for a lot worse. Hired a tuk-tuk to take me the last handful of kilometers to the small beach settlement of Unawatuna and checked into a guest house out of the guide book. The village seems pretty sleep with not many people around. First thing was a wander down the beach to the dive shop. I was hoping to dive tomorrow and possibly even this afternoon. Unfortunately I was told that there wouldn't be any diving in the area for at least four or five days - the surf had brought the visibility to near zero. Bad luck, I guess maybe I should have headed to the beach when I first got off the plane. Entry: Had lunch in a small shack restaurant on the beach - they're all over the place but only a couple others were even open. There seem to be about a half dozen tourist around - as near as I can tell all German. After lunch I wandered back to my room and relaxed in the shade for awhile before venturing out to explore the village and beach. Entry: There's really not much to the village - mostly it seems a collection of shuttered guest houses. It feels so much like an African village is most ways - I feel like I could be walking through a village in Malawi - except for the lush tropical growth. But everyone is very friendly - builders hoisting cement, grandmas, the tuk-tuk drivers, everyone stop to wave. Not surprisingly within minutes of me turning to the beach it started to rain. Actually it was just an occasional drop, nothing to stop me from enjoying my ankle deep walk - but no laying on the beach.

June
29

Unawatuna, Sri Lanka
Found In: Southern Province's Flag

Region: Southern Province

Entry: Woke up early looking forward to a day at the beach (or maybe it was because I went to sleep before nine last night), unfortunately it was raining. Hung out reading and working on Pike until nearly eleven when it stopped raining. While eating breakfast it really started to rain - I was soaked to the skin in the ten yards between the restaurant and my room! The heavy rain kept up until about three when it stopped and the sun started to beat down. I spent a couple hours on the beach swimming and enjoying the sun until the rising tide drove me out. Had dinner at the same beach front restaurant as last night.

June
30

Bandaranaike International Airport, Sri Lanka
From Unawatuna via Galle; Ambalangoda; and Colombo 3 Found In: Southern Province's Flag

Region: Southern Province End Location: Bandaranaike International Airport, Sri Lanka Route: Tuk-tuk: Unawatuna - Galle; Intercity Bus: Galle - Ambalangoda, Ambalangoda - Colombo; Taxi: Colombo - Bandaranaike International Airport

Weather: Rain / Overcast / Partial Sun Entry: Got up to another gray day. Packed, arranged a tuk-tuk to take me to Galle, and sat down to breakfast. Just like yesterday as soon as I started to eat it started to pour. The ride to Galle in the back of a tuk-tuk in the rain was not all that comfortable, but not as bad as I'd feared. I just missed the train from Galle to Colombo so I was going to have to wait around for a few more hours - a man approached me and asked if I was heading to Colombo, he was taking a van with two French girls up who were looking to share the cost. It would be a lot quicker, still cheap, and I wouldn't have to sit around for a couple hours so I agreed. They dropped me off at an office while the car went to get the girls. While they were gone I got the hard sell on gems, then they cam back and told me that because of the rain the girls had decided to wait until late afternoon to go north. I had them take me back to the train station and was a bit annoyed - I think it was all a set up. Walked across the street to the bus station and was in luck - jumped on an air-conditioned Intercity bus that was just leaving. Made it about an hour up the coast before the air-conditioning stopped working - so they kicked everyone off the bus in Ambalangoda. The good news is that I didn't have to pay anything to get part way, the bad news is that I had to wait nearly two hours for another bus. By that time the traffic was getting very bad so it took for ever to get anywhere. Near Colombo I recognized where I was and was able to get off the bus quite close to my guest house instead of going all the way into Colombo Fort and then coming back. Total time from Unawatuna to Colombo was nearly six hours - almost twice what I was expecting. Entry: Reclaimed the bag I'd left at the hotel, arranged for a taxi to take me to the airport at midnight, and did some preliminary sorting towards getting fully packed again. Then set off to do some shopping. I hit the government crafts shop and a couple private stores as well. The prices were ok, but there just wasn't anything that I wanted. Spent a half hour at an internet cafe, then grabbed a bite to eat and returned to the hotel. I was planning on getting packed and trying for a few hours of sleep before leaving for the airport. But the power was off at the hotel - without the ceiling fan the room is stifling hot plus I didn't feel like packing by candle light so I sat in the lobby and had a couple beers with this English guy who jus got here today. Around nine I gave up and went to the room to pack in the dark - just as I started the power came back on! Packed, then settled down to try to sleep for an hour - but just tossed and turned. Got up at 11:30 to get ready and caught my taxi to the airport. Entry: Extreme security entering the airport - search car (in and under), then baggage is searched twice by hand, and again by x-ray. The flight was reasonably on time and I spent most of it trying to sleep.

July, 2000

July
1

Cairo, Egypt
From Bandaranaike International Airport, Sri Lanka via Dubai, United Arab Emirates Found In: Entry: Despite my best efforts I didn't get any sleep on the plane. In Dubai I wandered through the duty free shops. I was in a dangerous buying mood, but managed to restrain - thought the prices were good. Wandered upstairs to try and check in to the transit hotel - but British Air has booked out the entire hotel since they have a delayed flight. Great - no sleep last night, and now a nine plus hour layover... Entry: Sat down in one of the cushy chairs outside the business center - away from most of the action - and worked on my H/PC for a couple hours. By then I could hardly keep my eyes open so I got up in search of coffee. I checked at the hotel just in case... and they had a room. It is by far the most expensive room I've ever stayed in (when you look at it by the hour - US$ 70 for six hours), but it's also as nice as any room I've ever stayed in. Had a great five hour sleep, then a long hot shower and it was incredible how much better I felt. I still felt a little scrambled, but at least I was capable of rational thought and could keep my eyes open. Entry: In Cairo the immigration was a nightmare - at least a thousand people waiting on three officers - chaos does not even begin to describe the mob. They added two more officers, but it still took over an hour to get through. Last time I came into Cairo I flew in - but I can't even remember going through immigration so it couldn't have been bad. An Egyptian woman explained to me that it was because the crowd was mostly local and Egyptians are used to waiting. Looking around I realized that she was at least partially right - there were only two other obvious foreigners in the mass. Luckily customs wasn't an issue at all - whereas the Egyptians who were coming from Dubai were searched thoroughly. Entry: Before, in Cairo, the problem was getting away from the taxi drivers, but now there are just too many people and it took me a bit to find one willing to take me at a reasonable price. It was after seven by now and the sun was a huge deep red ball as it set. As we drove by the spectacular Noor Mosque the sun was setting and the twin minarets and dome of the masque... well it just felt right to be in Cairo. Entry: I was worried about finding a place to stay, but the first hotel I'd picked out of the guide book had a room - and it's in the same area of Cairo that I've stayed in before so I know my way around. I arranged for a four AM taxi to take me to the airport to meet Amy, then went out and walked around before coming in to try and sleep - difficult with the nonstop traffic noise.

July
2

Cairo, Egypt
Found In: Entry: Did not sleep well at all - between the unending traffic noise, the heat, and just being wired I ended up tossing and turning all night. At three thirty I gave up and got out of bed. Once again to my surprise the taxi was waiting on time at four. Because of the lack of traffic I was at the airport in twenty minutes - far less than the hour I had allowed, and Amy's plane was going to be late! The plane only ended up being 20 minutes late (much better than the 45 forecasted), but by the time she got through immigration and customs it was six. Back at my room Amy crashed and I read the travel guide and caught up on my journal. Entry: The plan had been to spend the afternoon at the Egyptian Museum. We decided to have lunch first - kushari, yum! Then went to the Egypt Air office (next to the museum) to try and adjust our flights so we'd have time to go to Jordan. The line at the office was moving so slowly that after forty minutes we gave up and went to a travel agent. At the travel agent we were able to get reservations but then had to go back to the hotel to get the tickets and passports so that the changes could be made. Once we got back to the travel agent it took about an hour an a half to get my ticket issued and Amy's ticket changed. Spent the time making plans to see Cairo, Dahab, and Petra. We decided to catch the early morning bus (6:30) tomorrow and plan on seeing Cairo (Islamic Cairo, the pyramids, etc.) before flying to Tanzania. Entry: Then it was time for a fresh fruit juice and we were off to the museum... only to find out the stop admitting people at four. We had thought it was three due to confusion with the time zone change. Lack of sleep was really catching up so we hit the Nile Hilton for a cup of coffee and just hung out in the A/C for a while. Back at the hotel we hung out for a while longer, then went out for a disappointing diner. Tried to go to bed early, but by the time I finished packing for our early departure it was getting late.

July
3

Dahab, Egypt
From Cairo Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: Got up way to early and caught a taxi to the bus station. It turns out that our hotel gave us the wrong departure time - the bus to Dahab leaves at 8:30, not 6:30. So we ended up sitting around with our gear. The bus was not fast and took us via Sharm el-Sheikh so it ended up being a long, nine hour drive - through absolutely desolate country. There were some interesting bombed out buildings and bunkers - those and the extensive trenches must be remnants from the Israeli conflict. By the time we got to Dahab we were starving (hadn't eaten all day). I managed to find the same camp I stayed in before and we got a very basic cement room. Checked out the diving school and arranged for Amy to start her open water certification tomorrow morning. Walked the length of the bay and found a good beach cafe for diner. Had a couple well deserved beers at a local happy hour then went back to the hotel fairly early as Amy has to start studying.

July
4

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Region: Sinai Peninsula Entry: Amy woke up with a sore throat. She was supposed to start her dive class today but if she's going to have a cold she wouldn't be able to dive so we canceled the class and went back to sleep. She slept until fairly late then we went out and had a lunch at our camp down by the water. Ended up renting snorkel gear and spent the rest of the afternoon in the water. I was relieved to see that yes, the aquatic life here is as good as I remember it - the reef just outside our camp was fantastic - tons of coral, fish, and anemones and good visibility. Even saw some great scorpion fish. Luckily we didn't see any sharks as I think Amy is a bit nervous about them. Entry: In the evening I left Amy and wandered down the beach checking on various dive shop's Divemaster courses. There must be thirty or forty shops here, and the courses vary accordingly. I found a couple that I thought would be good (and challenging) though of course they were the dearer priced ones. Back at our camp took a shower then headed for dinner. We had a huge meal at the Shark Club - my favorite place when I was here before, and quite possibly home to one of the worlds great milkshakes.

July
5

Wadi Mousa, Jordan
From Dahab, Egypt via Nuweiba, Egypt; and Aqaba Found In: Region: Sinai Peninsula Entry: Amy woke up still feeling like she had a cold so we decide to skip her dive class again and sleep in. When we woke up we decided to head to Jordan - that way maybe she can beat the cold and be alright to dive when we return. We were to late to catch the first ferry, so we had a leisurely brunch on the beach then caught a taxi to Nuweiba. Got there just in time to buy our tickets and rush to the ferry. The ferry wasn't crowded and it was apparent that almost everyone else was part of a tour. In Jordan we got ahead of the group and went straight to the immigration office and were able to get our visas and (just barely - by seconds) get our passports stamped before the groups got their acts together. Entry: Outside the port we ran in to some taxi problems - we had negotiated a taxi straight to Wadi Mousa but then one of the disgruntled taxi drivers told the police and they wouldn't let us go (Jordan has some fixed rates and the price we negotiated was below this rate and straight from the port whereas port taxis were only authorized to take us into town). Ended up taking a shared taxi into Aqaba's center (we were followed by the police). There we again negotiated a good taxi price, but we couldn't find anyone to share it with us and it was just too expensive on our own. We were resigned to spending the night in Aqaba and then taking an early morning bus to Wadi Mousa (Petra). We went up to the bus station to check out busses for tomorrow and found a minibus driver who didn't seem all that happy, but agreed to take us to Wadi Mousa tonight. The drive up was all fabulous views - especially the rocky outcrops of Wadi Rum, and an incredible sunset. The driver went right by Wadi Mousa and ended up taking us to Ma'an (largish city well past Wadi Mousa) then he paid our taxi fare back to Wadi Mousa. There were two other tourist going to Wadi Mousa and they had a recommended hotel - since it was late and I didn't remember where the place I stayed at before was we decided to stay there as well. Checked in and got a nice room that wasn't too expensive. Went out and grabbed a quick shwarma / falafel for dinner before going to bed.

July
6

Wadi Mousa, Jordan
Found In: Photo: An inside door of Khazneh (The Treasury), Petra, Jordan
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: The start of The Siq from inside Khazneh (The Treasury), Petra, Jordan
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: The start of The Siq from inside Khazneh (The Treasury), Petra, Jordan
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Doors / windows of the Necropolis, Petra, Jordan
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Photo: Amy, against tomb wall, Petra, Jordan
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-608 Photo: Colors in rock, Royal Tombs, Petra, Jordan
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-608 Entry: Didn't quite make the sunrise at Petra - by the time we had breakfast, walked down, and bought our tickets it was well after nine. It should have been prime tour bus time, but there really weren't that many. Compared to when I was here two years ago there was hardly anyone - it must be the off season. The walk through the Siq was just as breathtaking as it was last time (see April 15, 1998). I think I annoyed Amy as I kept on rushing to get ahead of the tour groups so that we could come on the Khazneh (Treasury) by ourselves - but I think I was redeemed when she saw how dramatic it was (the Treasury is the tomb that was used in the closing scenes from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade). Entry: We explored the Treasury inside and out then continued into the heart of Petra. We wandered through the canyon to the half buried facades and gapping windows and doors of the Necropolis (Street of Facades) - all wonderfully organic in their eroded state and decorated with the most incredible swirls of color (reds, blues, yellows, and black) in the exposed rock. Further down the canyon we passed the Amphitheater situated where the canyon starts to open up to the flatter central area. Wandering through the newly restored Market place we climbed up to check out a couple of digs that were going on (looked pretty boring). Along the colonnaded street (a few restored columns, but hundreds of sections of columns could be seen in the surrounding rubble) and through the Temenos Gateway to the large Qasr al-Bint. It's on of the only free standing buildings in Petra and looks typically roman in its construction - completely failing to compete with the Nebataean's carved buildings. Entry: We climbed up to the tomb that the museum occupies (wasn't open when I was here before) - but it was unimpressive. Just for fun we wandered up the path carved into the side of the adjacent canyon, Wadi as-Siyagh. We wandered up and down stairs, through courtyards, and pass countless unnamed temples / tombs / storerooms (?). It's in places like that where you start to realize how amazing Petra really is - these spectacular facades and ruins that are so insignificant compared to the famous bits that they don't even get named. Eventually we made it to the bottom of the canyon and wandered back to the central area. Entry: We had planned on spending the morning in Petra then taking cover during the hot hours in the middle of the day then returning in the evening - but by this time it was two o'clock - and very hot. We moved as quickly as we could back into the central area then along the far side and up on to the balcony where the Royal Tombs are. We explored the cool (relatively) vaults underneath the Corinthian Tomb (?) and then the tomb itself. We hiked past the rest of the Royal Tombs (Palace, Corinthian, Silk and Urn Tombs) to a stairway across from the Amphitheater. Then it was back to the Treasury, and into the Siq. As before it was amazing how much longer the hike back to the town (2 miles) takes. Entry: In town we only had a couple hours before we wanted to return to Petra so we decided to skip going back to the hotel. I wimped out and decided I really wanted air-conditioning (it was very hot) so we went to Pizza Hut - the food was pretty mediocre but the A/C was wonderful. After lunch we wandered around a few of the tourist shops and checked out the new visitor's center (just an overpriced shop). It's amazing how much more developed the area is - just in the last two years (the Pizza Hut, Visitor's Center, and who knows how many hotels). Entry: We wandered back into the Siq passing a few other tourists on their way out. We paused to admire the Treasury in the afternoon light - a beautiful deep red color - then hiked at a decent pace back through the central are to the steps leading to the to Ad-Deir (the Monastery) - we were told it's a thousand steps - and I think I believe it. Half way through the hike we paused to admire the Lion Tomb but by then it was starting to get late. We passed a couple others returning, but by the time we finally got there it was nearly seven o'clock and we had the place to ourselves - although a couple English guys showed up a few minutes later. Entry: The police guard told us that it was forbidden to climb the Monastery anymore but that since there was no one else around it would be ok for us to. He then guided us to the top (I assumed looking for a tip). The view from the top was spectacular - out over the desert and mountains towards the setting sun. I think Amy was glad she did it afterwards, but she really wasn't happy while we were up there (it really is a long way down!) We scrambled back down and got to the valley floor just as the setting sun had turned the stone a deep golden color. I tried to tip our guide and was turned down - he just wanted to show us his home. We sat with him and played with his puppy and I had a cup of tea (free) before starting the long hike back. Entry: The hike back was reminiscent of my first day here last time - it got dark on us (though no lightening or rain this time). By the time we got back to the treasury it was getting near nine and the Siq was pitch black. Lucky for us a couple hundred meters in to it they were lighting candles - hundreds (thousands?) of them - on Thursday night they do an (expensive) night show and we were lucky enough to get to take advantage of their candles, which I'm sure was the most impressive part of the show. By the time we hiked up the hill to the town we were exhausted. We couldn't buy water because no one had change for a twenty dinar note - finally a shop keeper just told us to pay tomorrow - we were saved! Took a taxi back to the hotel (it so much pain that any extra steps were to be avoided) and bought some fruit just outside for dinner. In the room I took off my sandals to discover blisters on both feet - both big toes and all along the top of my right foot. Taking the weight off my feet felt so good, even though everything started to throb. Took an amazing shower, tried to stretch, and then crashed hard.

July
7

Wadi Mousa, Jordan
Found In: Photo: Sky and Ruins, High Place Trail, Petra, Jordan
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 616-566 Entry: We both woke up feeling barely able to move - let alone walk. Yesterdays orgy of walking definitely caught up. Decided to skip the morning in Petra and take it easy - we'll do the hikes we had planned in the afternoon. Slept in a little more then went out for breakfast. Amy read and napped and I caught up on my journal then tried (and failed) to upload it at a nearby internet cafe. Entry: Around five decided to head back into the ruined city. Hobbled down the hill and along the trail until we entered the Siq again. Every time it is so impressive - the sheer walls and the red glow of the rock. And once again the Treasury managed to surprise me - it's a huge facade carved into the side of a cliff, yet it somehow manages to jump out at me every time. After passing the Treasury and following the main canyon most of the way we turned off just before the Necropolis and Amphitheater. Then it was up a steep stairway climbing a narrow side canyon - it seemed to go forever. At last we reached the High Place of Sacrifice the highest point in the area and the site of some carved alters and cisterns. The view was of many of the tombs / facades down in the surrounding canyons and over the hills to the village of Wadi Mousa. Entry: The plan had been to drop down into the canyon on the other side then wander back in the the central area past many tombs / fountains / rooms / who-knows-whats. We started down what we thought was the trail but it turned out to be a dead end. After about 30 minutes of searching for the right path we started to panic as the sun was sinking fast so we headed back the same way. At the top of the stairs we ran into someone who pointed out the right way and we were able to follow the stairs down past the Lion Fountain (the relief of a lion that was once plumbed to be a fountain - 2,000 years ago!) to the Roman Soldier's Tomb (a fairly well preserved facade with three torsos decorating it). We then wandered down the canyon past the Garden Tomb (a tomb I took shelter in from the rain last time I was here), the Triclinium, and numerous other facades. We finally made it within sight of the central area but we couldn't figure out how to get to the valley floor without hiking way back - and it was starting to get dark. We ended up scrambling over a couple slopes, hopping a couple small walls, then descended through the amphitheater. Just before we got back to the treasury we were met by a police officer who escorted us, as the last visitors of the day, to the Siq. Entry: The two mile walk out through the Siq then up into town was painful, but we made it in half an hour. Then caught a taxi up to the hotel where we got in just in time to catch the end of the dinner buffet. After dinner did a quick fifteen minutes on the internet and managed to get my journal through. Then it was back to the hotel to pack for tomorrows departure (7am bus), take a shower, and write the day's journal.

July
8

Dahab, Egypt
From Wadi Mousa, Jordan via Aqaba, Jordan; and Nuweiba Found In: Region: Sinai Peninsula Route: Mini Bus: Wadi Mousa - Aqaba; Ferry: Aqaba - Nuweiba; Taxi: Nuweiba - Dahab Photo: Reef and Saudi mountains, Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Entry: Caught the seven o'clock mini bus down to Aqaba. At one point I noticed a sign saying 40 kilometers to Aqaba and made the mistake of thinking to myself "Wow, we're making good time" - of course a minute later we had a flat tire. It took them (about 8 guys off the bus) thirty minutes to fix the tire - I was just impressed that not only did they have a spare, but the jack and tools to change it. In Aqaba we had an unexciting breakfast then caught a taxi to the port. Entry: The procedure to buy a ferry ticket was every bit as chaotic as I remembered it being: Wait in line to reserve your ticket; Wait in line to go pay for it at the bank; Wait in the first line again to pick up your passports (that you had to leave to reserve the ticket); Wait in a different line to get the ticket verified and listed on the boats roster; Wait in line to pay the departure tax at a different bank; Pick up and fill out an entry (?) card; Wait in line to go through immigration; repeat at customs; and finally walk back to be picked up by a bus to take you to the ferry (never mind that you were closer to the ferry than the bus stop). At least this time we managed to get all the steps the first time and only got yelled at once. Entry: The ferry was unexciting - the water was absolutely glass like (we should have water skied across). At the Egypt side it took half an hour to get everyone off the boat (while something on the deck above started to leak and dripped from the ceiling). Once off the boat I sat around it the scorching heat (way hotter than it was) and waited another half hour for someone to bring off my pack (again never mind that I carried it on, but they wouldn't let me carry it off). Immigration was delightfully quick, as was customs, but then they wouldn't let any passengers out of the port until the government bus to Cairo left, so we waited another forty minutes. During all this waiting we met three other tourists heading to Dahab so when we approached the taxis we were prepared to bargain as a group. Amy and I had paid 50 £E to hire an entire taxi to take us up so that's what we were aiming for the ride back, instead of the 120 they were asking. An Austrian guy who was with us was not helpful as he took the taxi drivers side and told me I was lying about paying fifty - he had been to Dahab and knew that was an impossible price! I stepped out of the bargaining at that point instead of loosing what control all the waiting had left me. In the end we paid 15 £E each or 75 for the car. Entry: In Dahab checked back in to the Auski Camp and collected the baggage we'd left behind. Then it was time for a swim - finally! It was amazing how different I felt once we were back - completely relaxed - it even felt like a completely new day. It was still incredibly hot. There wasn't a breath of wind and the water was a mirror in its stillness. It was beautiful though - the mountains of Saudi Arabia were clearly visible. After a quick dip I wandered down the beach and found a dive class that was starting tomorrow (for Amy). Then we had showers and headed to happy hour, before heading on to the Shark Club for way too much food. At the bar I tried Stella again (the only beer that was available last time I was in Egypt) - it was as bad as I remembered it. After dinner it was back to the room to try and sleep in the still incredible heat.

July
9

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Region: Sinai Peninsula Entry: Seems like I didn't get any sleep last night - it was so hot that I just laid in a puddle of sweat. By nine it was even hotter and I gave up. I walked with Amy down to her dive class and arranged to go on an afternoon dive. Spent the rest of the morning reading, writing in my journal, and checking email. Entry: The dive was pretty good. I was a little disappointed with the aquatic life and the visibility was 15 meters (25 feet - about half what I was expecting). We drove in the back of a pickup about twenty minutes north towards the Blue Hole. In reality it was an excellent dive, it's just that I had very high expectations. The dive started on the reef about fifteen meters inland from the edge. We dropped into a hole in the reef and swam through a large tunnel in the reef to the edge. The coral variety and density at the mouth of the tunnel was incredible - like an aquarium that has packed every possible specimen into a small area. Unfortunately the rest of the dive was along a steep sandy slope with scattered coral heads. Two of the other divers (there were four of us) were obviously not that experienced and they went through their air very quickly. My dive partner and I stayed down and returned to the tunnel while the others swam back in shallow water. The highlight besides the tunnel and and the coral at the beginning was a brightly colored eel. Entry: Back at the dive shop I met up with Amy (who enjoyed her first day of class) and arranged to go out on another dive tomorrow morning. Spent the rest of the afternoon reading on the beach. In the evening Amy and I went shopping but the prices are so inflated here that we didn't buy anything. Had a beer at Nesima (the usual happy hour place) then went to the Italian restaurant.

July
10

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Region: Sinai Peninsula Entry: Went on a morning dive to The Canyon. It was a realatively deep dive (30 m / 100 ft) that I'd done before two years ago. The dive was a lot nicer than yesterday's - better visibility and just a fun route. The dive started on shore and had a gental swim down to a hole into a little cavern in the coral (30 m deep). From there it was a swim up into a larger cavern known as the "fish bowl" - very beautiful as the light comes in through cracks over head and strikes the thousands of little glass fish that hang out there - a living chandelier. Then swim up through another tunnel and exit on to the reef - the remainder of the dive is a pleasant swim back to shore exploring the shallower coral. Entry: Checked email then spent the rest of the afternoon sitting on the beach reading my book (Tom Robbins' Fierce Invalids Home From Hot Climates). When Amy returned from her class we went for a swim, then went to the bar for a sundowner beer. Dinner was in town at one of the beach front cafes - a little disapointing. Amy wanted fish and she got to pick which one she wanted from the fresh catch, but then it took forever to come out.

July
11

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Region: Sinai Peninsula Entry: Spent the morning working on my H/PC. Checked email, then walked in to the village to meet Amy. In the afternoon went on Amy's final checkout dive with her. Entry: The dive was at "The Islands" - two largish circular reefs that are only islands at extreme low tide. We waded over the shore reef and swam around the outer island then back to shore around the inner one. We exited through a small cave into the shore reef. There was nothing specifically fantastic about this dive, no great highlights - the entire dive was just so pretty. There was tons of fantastically dense coral and lots of fish. There were some sections where sections of the coral had been knocked down by an earthquake some years ago and they looked like frozen waterfalls. Entry: After the dive I hung out at the dive club while Amy took her test (she passed). Afterwards we hung out at the camp then sat and read on the beach in front before heading for a couple beers at happy hour then back to the Shark Club for dinner.

July
12

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Region: Sinai Peninsula Entry: At the dive center - through our gear together, jumped in the back of a pickup truck, and on our way to the Blue Hole. The drive was a bit long to be without a shirt, and despite the sunscreen I burned a little. The hole was, like the rest of the area, a little more built up than I remembered it. The dive briefing was a little confusing and I don't think Amy was feeling entirely comfortable. At the beginning of the dive Amy did the smart thing and moved out of the canyon and descended away from the face at her own pace. She still got to experience the wall, but missed out on some of the drama. Entry: The dive started at Bell's Canyon, just north of the hole. From the reef table there's a steep (nearly vertical) head first swim though the canyon, then at about 90 feet below the surface you swim through an arch and find yourself in the middle of a bottomless wall. It's a very dramatic start for a dive! Unfortunately the drift dive back to the Blue Hole passes a number of bare spots on the wall. This was my favorite dive when I was in Dahab last time, but it's popularity is showing it's toll. There was obvious damage in the canyon, on the wall, and in the hole. It was still a fantastic dive, but between the damage, and a lot more experience it wasn't the same. Entry: After the first dive we went back to the camp and had a nice lunch and sat for a while reading on the beach. The second dive was off the newly repaired boat (an 8m fiberglass hull inflatable). Disappointingly short ride - only five or six hundred meters - but better than having to swim it! Entry: The second dive was on Napoleon Reef, just off the lagoon by Dahab City (the newer, luxury part of Dahab). Once again there wasn't any on spectacular thing, but it was just a very nice coral dive. It was especially refreshing to realize that I didn't see any damage on the reef. Entry: I used up the last page of my log book, so after the dive instead of buying a new one I went an internet cafe and used the computer to design and print some more pages - I wanted a more compact layout. Predictably on our last night in Dahab we went to the Shark Club again. Then had a beer at Nesima's bar before heading back to the camp.

July
13

Cairo, Egypt
From Dahab Found In: Region: Sinai Peninsula Entry: Slept in, then packed and had a final lunch on the beach. Caught a pickup to the bus station. A very long bus ride - started with not too loud readings from the Koran (very relaxing), but soon switched to bad Arabic music and worse movies (in Arabic) - all at full volume. Got into Cairo about ten - only to have a massive hassle with the taxis. Amy got a little irritated with me when I told a driver off using some impolite words (fuck!) when he lied to me and told me the hotel we'd just stayed in was closed. Another said the hotel was full (he'd just dropped off some tourists there earlier- yet he didn't know where it was). Even the tourist police told us the wrong price and that we should take this taxi. Finally we just started walking and almost immediately found a taxi that was willing to take us for the right price. Of course half way there he tried to negotiate a new price. Once there we paid him what we had agreed to (and what we knew to be fair) - he wasn't happy but so what. Checked in to the hotel (lots of room), had a fast dinner of Kushari, then off to bed. Ah the joys of Cairo...

July
14

Cairo, Egypt
Found In: Photo: Minaret from spice market, Khan al-Kalili, Cairo, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 213-720 Entry: After breakfast caught a taxi to Islamic Cairo. We wandered through the busy, twisting streets looking for Bab Zuweila (the only remaining original gate). We eventually found the gate, but the towers have been incorporated into a mosque, and we'd forgotten it's Friday - the mosque is closed to visitors until later this afternoon. Wandered through the streets to the Khan al-Kalili markets. Amy bought some perfume bottles as gifts for Touria and Lalamina and some lotus oil for herself, I bought a T-shirt ("Stella - that which does not kill us makes us stronger", Stella being the cheap "beer"...). Then we wandered into the proper market area - spices, meat, textiles, and perfume / incense areas. It was really nice because we didn't see any other tourist and it was obvious from peoples reactions that we were off the regular tourist track. Finished up the explorations back in the antiquities and crafts sections - definitely on the tourist circuit. The market where the inlayed wood work was done was particularly good. It was up some dark stairs in a courtyard up on the roofs - but it was also expensive and obviously regularly visited by tourist. We wandered by the mosque while prayer was going on - it was completely surrounded by devotees praying. Stopped for some very refreshing mango ice cream before catching a taxi back to Midan Tahrir. Entry: We thought the Egypt Museum museum was closed from noon until two on Fridays, so the plan had been to get there right as it opened. When we got there at two though there were people leaving - so it looks like it was open all afternoon. We went in and wandered around - it was as wonderfully chaotic as I remembered it being. Great wooden cabinets full of intriguing treasures - and only occasionally labeled. Then I realized that there were tons of people coming in - apparently everyone thought the museum was just opening. Amy and I headed for the Tutankhamun collection to try and beat the masses. The collection was as beautiful and impressive as I remembered it, both from when I saw it in Los Angeles when I was a kid and two years ago here in Cairo. Unfortunately shortly after we got into the treasures room the tour groups started to arrive and it got uncomfortably crowded. Entry: Tried to find Kenya Air's office so that I could cancel my tickets to Tanzania (since I ended up buying a ticket on the same flights Amy has) - unfortunately all the airline offices are closed (it's Friday). It won't be a big deal if I don't cancel the tickets as they're fully convertible, but I'm worried that they might cancel the rest of my itinerary as well. Amy headed back to the room, and I went and checked my email. Entry: We'd been planning on going to Giza in the late afternoon to wander around the pyramids and watch the sun set, but it's been a very busy day with a lot of walking so we decided to put it off until we're back in Cairo after Tanzania and Malawi. So instead we went for a walk along the Nile and across to Gezira Island and then up to the ritzy Zamalek area. The plan had been to splurge and have salads at the Hard Rock Cafe - unfortunately after walking and searching for it for two hours we heard that it was still being reconstructed (after what?) I didn't terribly mind since I'd gotten to explore a new section of Cairo. We ended up eating at a recommended deli which surprisingly had great pizza and good cheese cake. Caught a taxi back to the hotel and packed and showered. We'd gotten the hotel for the night on the theory that we could get a nap before heading to the airport - but by the time I finished packing I had ten minutes - so much for the nap. At the airport got dropped off at the wrong terminal - for whatever reason our flight was not leaving from the Egypt Air International terminal. So we caught another taxi to the other terminal - only to end up at the wrong hall - luckily a short (and slightly nerve wracking) walk got us to the right hall (it was with a lot of relief that we found our flight posted on the electronic display). Shortly after take off I was sound asleep.

July
15

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
From Cairo, Egypt Found In: Lodging: Safari Inn Entry: I woke up after a few hours sleep as we were descending into Entebbe (we didn't even know the flight was going to stop there!) Most of the other passengers got off and few (if any) got on so we had most of the plane to ourselves for the remainder of the flight to Dar. Landed in Dar es Salaam early and got through immigration without any great drama - though we couldn't get multiple-visas. Outside we negotiated a taxi for far cheaper than we should have been able to. Turned out there was a safari sell going on - no problem, as we want to go on safari and it sounds like a good deal so we agreed to meet the man tomorrow morning. Checked in to the same hotel I stayed in last time I was here - it's been cleaned up and is even nicer than it was. Entry: I was originally supposed to fly down from Cairo the day after Amy and I hadn't canceled my tickets yet (everyone was closed yesterday) so I called Kenya Air - and found out I didn't have a flight tomorrow. I had a flight last week, I'd forgotten that we'd changed the flights to have an extra week in Egypt! Anyway I canceled the return flight and verified that the rest of my itinerary was still there. Entry: Settled down for a two hour nap that ended up being almost four. Spent the evening wandering around. Eventually we found a restaurant that I remembered being good - and it still is - yummy Indian food. While we were waiting for our dinner a very polite young man dropped off his business card and asked if he could talk to us after dinner. We went and talked to him - he worked for another safari company. We both liked them, but there was a very hard sell at the end. We left agreeing to call them tomorrow. I have a slightly better feeling for this company than the other one, as they're in the book (and were last time I was here as well), and so have a reputation to protect. Entry: By the time we finished talking with Joseph (the safari rep) it was dark. We walked around some more on a quest for mosquito coils, then had a couple beers at a cheap locals bar before heading back to the room for a relatively early night.

July
16

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
Found In: Lodging: Safari Inn Entry: Int the morning we met with the safari guy from the airport taxi - it sounds good, but almost to good - I think both of us are a little wary. From his office we walked down to the water. We walked the length of the harbor, then turned inland to head towards the Sheraton (goals: clean toilets, a pay phone - to call the other safari company, forex, and the nearby crafts market). The raod inland was beautiful - wide and stately and heavily shaded on both sides by giant trees. At the Sheraton we accomplished everything, except we couldn't get through to the safari company (we've decided to try and get them to pay for our bus tickets, but we want to go with them anyway). Also the crafts market was lacking and way over priced (five to ten times). On the way back we tried to find an ATM - but the only one we could find wouldn't accept my Visa card. Entry: Wandered back to the water and had a few snacks from one of the street venders. Wandered among the restaurant shacks by the water (to the amusement of many of the locals) then headed back towards the hotel. On the way we stopped by Nyika Safari's office (Joseph - from last night, the company we trust) it was a little more expensive ($5 / day more and the bus tickets to Arusha weren't included). Joseph was there and we were able to negotiate them paying for our bus - so it's only the $5/day, and we're both a lot more comfortable with them. Had an early dinner at the same place as yesterday (there aren't very many places open on Sunday) then headed back to the hotel. There's a church service going on nearby - the preaching is way to loud, but the gospel music is nice - "Amazing Grace" in Swahili works. Went out for a couple beers then home to bed. Entry: Two disappointing "city" things happened today. First we tried to change money with someone on the street and they tried to rip us off, then I caught a boy trying to steal my sunglasses out of my daypack. The change scam was the same one that was tried on me when I was here before. I told the man that I was going to count the money and every time he touched it I was going to have to recount it and he agreed. When I counted the money he tried to take it back to put it in a rubber band, but the same hand was holding a newspaper and it was totally obvious that it concealed another bundle of money. When I wouldn't give the money back and instead offered the $100 bill he got angry (despite the fact that this is how we agreed it would go down to start with) - he took the shillings back and we walked away. It was just irritating because it was so predictable and he did just what I told him he was going to do. Then a couple hours later I caught something out of the corner of my eye and turned around to find a boy trying to get my sunglasses from my pack - hanging on one shoulder under my arm, not even on my back. I lunged at him to scare him off and he was gone. We didn't loose anything, but it just kind of sucks to be made to feel like a walking target. It's especially harsh in a place where most people are so friendly and you don't want to suspect everyone.

July
17

Arusha, Tanzania
From Dar es Salaam Found In: Lodging: Arusha Center Inn Entry: Long bus day. Joseph (from Nyika Safaris) met us at the hotel with a taxi. At the bus station there were some problems over when the bus was leaving so Joseph fixed it and moved us to another bus (ah, the joys of having them responsible for the bus). We still had to wait on the bus over an hour before it finally started moving (at 8:30) but it was nice that someone else had to deal with the chaos. Entry: The drive was fast - we only stopped for a couple police checkpoints, breif stops to let people on or off, and a ten minute lunch break. Actually it was uncomfortable fast at times - around the curves it sometimes felt as if the bus was going to roll over! The lanscape was interesting - mountains and savanna, baobabs and villages there was almost always something to look at. Near Arusha we got our first view of Mount Kilamanjaro - only the snow fields and peak were visible - apearing to hover in the sky like a cloud of stone and ice. Entry: So nine hours after leaving Dar es Salaam we're in Arusha! Exiting the bus we were imeadiately swamped with people ("Taxi!"; "Safari!"; "Government regulations - you must book your hotel here!"; etc.) - I was prepared for it, but luckily we didn't have to deal with it as there was someone from our safari company waiting for us (this keeps getting better and better!) We drove to the main office, where we relaxed, paid the balance, and made arangements to be picked up Wednesday morning. Moses, the manager, also called around to find us a hotel room then had us driven to the hotel. We checked in, hung out, then headed out to the most incredible meal yet. It was a bit expensive (relatively) but was amazing Indian food.

July
18

Arusha, Tanzania
Found In: Lodging: Arusha Center Inn Entry: Walked into town, stopping at a patisserie, a forex, and at a couple crafts stalls. Went to the immigration office to try and resolve our visa problem (we can't get visas to come back into Tanzania in Malawi or at the border), but they couldn't help us and told us we had to go back to Dar (they also couldn't give us a phone number for the Dar office so they weren't too clued in). At Nyika's (our safari company's) office we discussed it, read the guide book, and researched on the internet and decided to head back to Dar (we were going to head south through Dodoma). If we can't get another visa there we'll head to Malawi and risk getting back across the border without one (there were a couple reports on the web of people getting away with this). Entry: Spent the afternoon crafts shopping at the street stalls (mostly Masai stuff) and the crafts market (mostly carvings imported from Malawi and Kenya). I got away easy - I only bought a wire and cloth rolling toy. Afterwards we explored the main market. It was pretty typical (produce, fruit, fish, meat, grains, and house wares) but nice to wander. Entry: For dinner we went to a place out of the guide book. We got lost trying to find it, but finally succeeded finding it on an unlikely little dirt street. It was good, though no where as nice as last nights. Back at the hotel we packed for tomorrows safari (!) departure and went to sleep.

July
19

Mtu Wa Mbu, Tanzania
From Arusha via Main Gate, Tarangire National Park Found In: Stop: Main Gate, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Photo: Starling, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 551-985 Entry: We scrounged around for a hurried breakfast (ended up with dry muffins and water). Got picked up promptly at nine (as advertised) but then had to drive around Arusha picking up gear and waiting for the others. The others joining the us are a couple of older men from Greece - seem a bit somber. Entry: Drove an hour and a half to Tarangire National Park. The game drive wasn't to exciting - mostly the typical: zebras, giraffes, elephants, the antelopes (impala, gazelle, and water bucks), and birds. The driver is a bit surly - not too informative, kind of grumpy, and honestly not very good (most of the sightings were just following other cars, and we didn't see anything exciting). All in all it was a good first day of safari - we saw enough to keep us entertained, but it can get a lot better. Entry: From the national park we drove to and around Lake Manyara to the town of Mtu Wa Mbu (Mosquito River - I stayed there last year when I was on safari). The campsite is a bit commercial but not to bad and they have showers (cold) and flush toilets. A big negative was dinner - it was lousy! Last year I was pretty unimpressed with the safari company, but the meals were always fantastic. At least the campsite has beer...

July
20

Seronera, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
From Mtu Wa Mbu via Naabi Hill Found In: Photo: Superb Starling, Naabi Hill, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 589-724 Photo: Superb Starling, Naabi Hill, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 589-724 Photo: Road into park, Naabi Hill, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 589-724 Entry: Didn't get much sleep last night - stomach problems - so the morning came way to early. Then despite being all packed and ready to go on time we were an hour late leaving. I think the cook was doing some shopping, so maybe we can look forward to a good meal tonight. Drove a couple hours into the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Tons of Masai around - mostly in traditional garb trying to flag down the car so that they can charge us to take pictures, but some out there doing their day to day business (mostly moving cattle around). Some animals, mostly zebras and various antelopes. Entry: When we got to the crater the cloud cover was pretty dense so we could only catch glimpses of the crater floor. By the time we'd driven around to the other side of the rim the cover had lifted a little and you could see the floor of the crater spread out like a map. Continued down off the crater (we're coming back here for tomorrow night) towards Serengeti. Stopped after one for a packed lunch - best meal so far though the plastic wrapped orange sections were rotting. Entry: Entered into Serengeti proper a little after two. It's amazing how flat the land is here - the "Welcome to Serengeti" sign is the only thing you can see as far as the horizon. Another half hour drive gets us to the entry station at Naabi Hill. There we paid, used the toilets, indulged in some chocolate and hiked to the top of the hill for the view - a stunning panorama of flatness. Entry: We set up camp then watched a fantastic sunset. Complaint - a group of about twenty very loud boy scouts from Tennessee came in and surrounded our campsite - perpetuating the American image... Took our cook two and a half hours to cook dinner - which once again was mearly ok. The driver went to get beers for the Greek guys and took over two hours to get back - no idea where or what he was doing, but it was kind of weird.

July
21

Simba (Crater Rim), Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
From Seronera, Serengeti National Park Found In: Photo: Giraffe drinking, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-102 Photo: Giraffe drinking, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 590-102 Entry: Up early for breakfast so that we could be on our game drive early. Watched a beautiful sunrise then had our toast and tea (what passes for breakfast with this safari company - very frustrating when you can smell the French toast, bacon, sausages, etc. from the other groups' breakfasts). Then we sat around and waited for the other guys to get ready - it was after eight by the time we set off. Then our driver insisted on driving slow - very slow (around 10 miles per hour) - our first thought was that something was wrong with the car and he didn't want to tell us. But I think that he was trying to save gas - wherever he went for so long last night probably wasn't factored in to how much gas he was given. It was pretty annoying creeping along and we certainly didn't get to see any far corners of the park. Entry: Right at the beginning of our drive we came on a big group of cars looking at something. When we wormed our way near and searched for a while we found another leopard - way up in the tree, barely visible. I have no idea how the first car sighted him unless they watched him climb up! The rest of the drive wasn't that great. There were some lions, the usual zebras and antelopes, and elephants. The highlights were a large male lion and a group of elephants. The lion was huge. He wandered through the grass then settled down for a nap in the shade - he wasn't that close, but he was majestic. The elephants were a large family group (maybe twenty of them) which included a number of babies as well as young and adults. We stopped to watch them drink then they spread out and slowly wandered up to the road and crossed in front of us - then stopped! They wouldn't move, and after waiting half and hour we gave up and backtracked to find a different road back to camp. Entry: Our morning drive was over at noon. That meant the we got less than four hours to see the Serengeti - even counting that we had some great sightings on our way into camp yesterday, it's not nearly enough time. At camp the cook had made a local staple - ugali (a maize flour paste). It was a delicious meal (finally!). Packed up the car and headed for the park exit. The car stopped a few times, but the driver always managed to get it started with some slight adjustments under the hood (good thing there weren't any hungry lions around). Entry: Drove back into the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and up on to the crater rim. Set up camp, admired the view, and went for a short walk among the zebras. As it got dark it got cold! We huddled in the tent until dinner was ready (beans and pasta - back to sub-average meals), ate quickly and went to bed.

July
22

Arusha, Tanzania
From Simba (Crater Rim), Ngorongoro Conservation Area Found In: Lodging: Arusha Center Inn Photo: Sunrise reflected in crater lake, Simba (Crater Rim), Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-293 Photo: Masai boys walking, Simba (Crater Rim), Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-293 Photo: Masai boys walking, Simba (Crater Rim), Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-293 Photo: Amy Reading, Simba (Crater Rim), Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-293 Photo: Lion drinking, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-293 Photo: Zebra nursing, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Zebras and wildebeests drinking, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Zebras and wildebeests drinking, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Flamingos, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Flamingos and Wildebeests, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Flamingos, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Flamingos, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Buffalo remains, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Black Rhino, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Photo: Black Rhino, Crater Floor, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-282 Entry: We were up early for our trip down into the crater. We were supposed to make it to Arusha National Park tonight - which means a long drive so our driver wants to be back at the camp by 12:30 - so we want an early start. We wait for breakfast then once again have to wait on the Greeks. Finally at 8:30 we were on our way. Made it about a quarter of a mile before a horrendous noise came from the engine and the car stoped moving. I thought we'd thrown a rod (goodbye engine), but it was only the universal joint between the drive shaft and the transfer case (goodbye safari). So we walked back to the camp site. Our driver found another driver who's group was walking and negotiated for him to take us into the crater. We ended up having to front US$ 80 - but our driver promised it would be repaid to us back in Arusha. The new driver set off to deliver his group and promised to be back in 30 minutes. Our driver told us we had to be back by one - as it was already ten this meant we'd have less than two hours on the floor - I strongly disagreed and we finally compromised that we'd be back at the camp at three (giving us four hours). Meanwhile our driver would get in to town, pick up a spare, and get our vehicle repaired. Entry: Winston was our relief driver - he normally works for Hoopoe Adventure Tours, and he turned out to be incredible. He was personable, knowledgeable, and obviously passionate about what he does. He also had incredible vision. In our four hours we saw everything - tons of lions, hippos, cheetahs, black rhino, all the standards (except giraffe - they don't live in the crater; but including huge herds of wildebeest, zebra, and buffalo), tons of large birds (including ostrich, greater and lesser flamingos, the beautiful gray crowned crane, great white pelicans, secretarybirds and Kori Bustards). Entry: By far the highlight of the day was the lions. Near the beginning of the drive we found a group of lions feeding on some earlier kill. They were quite some distance away, but Winston decided they were going to move because some Masai were bringing their cattle to drink at a nearby water hole, and parked the car where he thought they might go. There were about ten lions and as predicted they soon moved away from the water. They went different ways, but three of them came right at us. The largest of the three was a huge female whose entire muzzle was soaked in blood - she and two other lionesses brushed against the back of our car as they walked by - less than four feet below us! Even better the large one stopped and made eye contact scarcely a yard away. We also saw several smaller groups, and lone lions - though none as close. Later in the drive came on a male and a female feeding on something - they weren't that close, but close enough for some great pictures (I hope...). Entry: At the lakeside we sat and watched a huge number of bright pink lesser flamingos mingle with some larger greater flamingos and a small herd of hippopotamuses - so stereotypical Africa it looked staged. Entry: Next, I jokingly requested cheetahs - Winston said he'd try, and shortly after our close encounter with the lioness we stopped at a grassy field and Winston announced there was a cheetah there. It took the rest of us about ten minutes with binoculars and zoom lenses to find it, and meanwhile Winston had found two more. They were way out there - too far for the photos to turn out great - but he did find us cheetahs! Entry: He found us some black rhinos - they were lying down and far away, but he brought us back later when they were moving around so we could at least see them. We also saw several more herds of hippos and some incredible scenery - remember this is all at the bottom of a giant crater. Entry: After a wild ride up the crater wall (Winston was not a conservative driver) we were back at the camp at exactly three and... no car. The car and driver showed up half an hour later - right after the cook went with Winston to try and find them. Pretty much perfect timing and I was very glad that we hadn't been waiting since one! We needed to give the driver another US$ 80 to pay for the repairs (again we were promised to be paid back in Arusha) and we were off. Two hours of very bad road got us nearly back around Lake Manyara to the paved road when we ran out of gas! It was almost comical as we all got behind the land rover and pushed it for twenty minutes to the bottom of a hill. Sent the cook off to get a gallon of petrol and the rest of us sat around and watched the sun turn red as it slowly started to sink into the surrounding bush. The cook came back, we filled up with gas, and a fairly quick two hours later we were at the safari office in Arusha. Entry: In Arusha we got the red carpet treatment. The manager was very apologetic about the difficulties, reimbursed us the $160, and offered to put Amy and I up in a nice hotel and pay for our dinner rather than sending us off to the campground we were supposed to stay at. We'd then continue on to nearby Arusha National park in the morning. Amy had started feeling a little off on the ride back to Arusha so this suited us. We checked in, went to the great Indian restaurant again (still good) and went to bed.

July
23

Arusha, Tanzania
Via Momella Gate, Arusha National Park Found In: Lodging: Arusha Center Inn Entry: Amy had severe stomach pains and was unable to sleep much of the night and was unable to wake me as I slept right through it. This morning she was feeling much better so we decided to go ahead with our last day of safari - off to Arusha National Park! Just to go along with the rest of the safari's theme the car was 45 minutes late picking us up. The drive to the park was half over a nice paved road (east towards Moshi), and half on very rough dirt track (north towards the park). The drive was pleasant passing through incredibly green fields of coffee, corn, and others carved out of the dense forest. Entry: Driving along the boundary of the park we saw a small herd of buffalo, zebra, warthog, giraffe (Masai), and baboon. The riot of green showed that there was no lack of food! At the ranger station (Momella Gate) our driver (Robert, new for us today) arranged a ranger to take us in on foot. Amy was starting to feel a little questionable so we shortened the planned hike to two hours, then again to one. The ranger, David, was cheerful and had the enthusiasm that the best guides seem to have. You could tell he loved his job and was looking forward to another hike. We set into the bush talking about the park, his family, and his work. About fifteen minutes in Amy had a relapse and couldn't even stand. We returned to the car and had the driver take us back to Arusha. Entry: On the way out of the park we saw blue monkeys and black-and-white Colobus monkeys - the two animals we'd specifically hoped to see in the park. We also saw a natal red Duiker which we hadn't seen before. Amy was in pain all the way back to the paved road, but as we approached Arusha started to feel better. Back at the hotel we begged and then bribed to make a call to her dad (a doctor) and woke him up at three AM - we'd done the math backwards. Armed with a list provided by her dad I set out to find a pharmacy open on Sunday (most of Arusha is closed - hence not being able to call from a tele-botique) while Amy rested. After about five failures I was directed to an open store where I was able to buy Cipro. Entry: I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting talking with Amy or working on my journal while Amy tried to sleep. She had one more episode and then the symptoms settled to a strong pain in her lower back. We're afraid that it might be a kidney infection - if she's not feeling a lot better tomorrow we're going to have to risk a doctor. Either way we're not going to catch an early bus back to Dar.

July
24

Arusha, Tanzania
Found In: Lodging: Arusha Center Inn

Entry: Amy had a rough time last night and I was up with her. When the drugs (antibiotics and painkillers) took effect we finally got to sleep. Luckily it was a rainy morning, perfect to sleep in. Got up and spent the morning doing some small tasks I'd been putting off (shaving, doing some laundry by hand, etc.). Amy felt much better and decided to risk a late breakfast of fruit juice. After breakfast we walked into town, hit an internet cafe, and then walked up to the International Conference Center (where all the safari companies have their offices). Once again the office staff treated us very well. We'd just come by to drop off a tip for our drivers, but they ended up letting us use the phone to make phone calls to Dar es Salaam to try to make train reservations (Dar to Mbeya). We managed to make reservations, but the catch is we can only pay for them in Dar and the payment has to be made five days before departure - and we don't want to hang out around Dar for five days. Entry: After leaving the safari company's office we had a small lunch (Amy graduated to yogurt and a bread roll). Dropped by the Air Tanzania office to check on flying to Mbeya or even Lillongwe (way too much money) and walked back to the hotel. Went over the guide books and talked out a new plan - no train, no night busses, and we should even end up getting to Malawi earlier! We're thinking a bus to Dar tomorrow (Tuesday) morning; Wednesday morning try to deal with our immigration hassels then catch a bus to Iringa via Morogoro; then then either Thursday or Friday catch a bus to Mbeya. That means Friday or Saturday we get to Malawi! Entry: Spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out and working on my computer. Went back to our favorite Indian restauraunt and had an early dinner. Even with the unlikly name of "Big Bite" it really does have fantastic food. Spent the rest of the night packing and preparing for an early departure.

July
25

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
From Arusha Found In:

Entry: In the morning Amy went downstairs and bought bus tickets while I finished up packing. Our timming was great an we were able to get a ride to the bus - a good thing since the bus didn't leave from the central station as I has assumed! It was a gray rainy day - not a bad day to spend on the bus if you had to. It was a very long ride though. Finally in Dar nearly ten hours after leaving Arusha. Checked the bus schedule to Iringa and made reservations for tomorrow afternoon's two o'clock bus. Caught a taxi to the Safari Inn, the same hotel we'd stayed at before, only to find it full. We walked next door to the Jambo Inn to find the same thing. Finally down the street we found a dark dingy hotel that had rooms available. Actually the room is nice - basic but clean and with a balcony - at half the price! Walked around the corner to a restaurant an had a pretty good dinner (Indian again - but nothing as nice as "Big Bite").

July
26

Iringa, Tanzania
From Dar es Salaam Found In: End Location: Iringa, Tanzania Route: Dar - Morogoro - Iringa Entry: Packed and checked out of the hotel leaving our bags. Headed for the immigration office - but walked the wrong way. Turned around and walked the right direction on one of the major streets. The bonus was finding a great market en route. At the immigration office signed in, fought through a huge crowd, got directed down a dark hall and ended up in what someday will be modern reception office for the visa section- but at the moment is a construction zone. Got directed to the current (i.e. old) immigration office downtown (thanks LP). We were starting to worry about time - only two hours until we needed to be at the bus station. Rushed downtown and found the poorly marked office with only a little difficulty. Inside was chaos - a long desk crowded by people - no lines. We fought to the right area but were at a standstill when an American man asked if we wanted "his" guy to get the forms for us - he had a local friend up at the desk. The friend found out they couldn't give us another visa there, but that we should be able to get the visa at the border on our way out of Tanzania. Entry: Walked back towards our hotel looking for a likely lunch spot. Ended up at the same restaurant we ate at when were were last in Dar. Had lunch, then went on a search for a pharmacy - Amy needs a few more tablets of Cipro to make the full seven day course, and we wanted to have a back-up antibiotic just in case. We found some pharmacies but they didn't have what we wanted. Finally walked into a Medic Supply place - they had what we wanted but we needed to buy in quantities of a hundred! They guided us to nearby pharmacy. At the pharmacy we were given options of buying German made, Egyptian Made, or Indian Made drugs - respectively about $40, $20, or $2.50! We got the Indian made, and ended up buying three different courses just because it was so cheap (Ciprofloxacin, Amoxacillin, and Azithromycin for about $8!). After our big purchase we hit the internet for fifteen minutes and then rushed back to the hotel, collected our bags and caught a taxi for the bus station. Entry: The bus ride was pretty nice, still long, but a little more comfortable and through spectacular scenery. First up through the mountains then through Mikumi National Park. While driving through the park we didn't see any animals, but we did get the best African sunset yet! In Iringa it was a fight to get off the bus through the taxi drivers mobbing the door. Luckily for a change we weren't the target - tourists obviously aren't that common here (we were the only ones on our bus). Checked on the bus times to Mbeya for tomorrow or the next day (we're not sure yet). Then caught a taxi to the recommended budget place in town - the Lutheran Center. The facilities are a little basic - dorm accommodations on tiny beds and a very smelly bathroom - but it's very cheap (about $1 each). It was about ten when we set out to find something to eat. Ended up having chips at the Iringa Club (a local bar) - and were pleasantly surprised to find the beers a lot cheaper than in Dar!

July
27

Iringa, Tanzania
Found In: End Location: Iringa, Tanzania Lodging: Ruaha International Lodge Photo: Ascent up Gangilonga Rock, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: Amy climbing Gangilonga Rock, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: View of Iringa from Gangilonga Rock, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: ?, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: Me on top of Gangilonga Rock, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: Amy on top of Gangilonga Rock, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: Sunset from Gangilonga Rock, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: Sunset from Gangilonga Rock, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: Sunset from Gangilonga Rock, Iringa, Tanzania
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Entry: Last night we realized that maybe our hotel wasn't such a bargain. In addition to the rather meager amenities it was loud - all night long. So we packed and moved. The new hotel is only a block away and is much nicer, and even at twice the cost it's still cheap. Amy was feeling a little weird again last night, so this morning we decided to go back to Dar and do Zanzibar before Malawi. That way we're more accessible if there are any complications. We'll go to Malawi at the end of the trip instead. Had brunch at "Hastey Tasty Too" - the most popular restaurant in town while working out our plans. Entry: The weather is fantastic. Up here in the mountains the air is delightfully cool and very refreshing after the heat in Dar. The town is small and there are very few tourist. It's a little challenging since, unlike everywhere else I've been in Tanzania, very few people speak English. But it's fun - lots of bumbling attempts at Swahili and even more hand gesturing. Spent a couple hours exploring the markets. It was great, not a single other tourist and people were very friendly and happy to see us. I bought some spice, a cow bell, and a pumice stone. Amy bought a couple baskets and some sandals. In the middle of our explorations we went into a local bar in search of a cold soda and a toilet. There were a half dozen people in the bar and they were very amused to see us - lots of laughing, in a friendly way. After the market stopped at the bus station and bought tickets for the six o'clock bus tomorrow morning (ugh). Back at the hotel had a very cold bucket bath and laid down for a rest. Entry: Went for a late afternoon hike up to Gangilonga Rock ("Talking Stone" in Hehe, the local language) the directions in the guide book were useless, but with the help of some locals we made it in time to walk around it, climb to the top and relax before watching the sunset. The hills around Iringa are bare and rocky - very appealing in a minimalist way - they look as if they belong in the Scottish highlands, not tropical Africa. After the sunset (again beautiful) we hurried down the trail and got back in to town just as it was really getting dark. Had dinner, then went back to the hotel and packed as it's going to be a very early morning...

July
28

Stone Town, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania
From Iringa via Dar es Salaam Found In: Route: Bus: Iringa - Morogoro - Dar es salaam; Ferry: Dar es Salaam - Zanzibar Entry: Up long before dawn to hike into the town center for our six fifteen bus. Bus was long and the scenery wasn't as fascinating the second time around. To make things worse the video system had a very loud buzz that made the sound track unintelligible and even cut through my walkman's earphones - of course that didn't stop them from showing videos the entire way... On the plus side we did get to see some animals from the road - nothing exciting, just impala and monkeys (vervets and baboons) - but it was still nice to have some distractions. Entry: Got in to Dar around 1:30. Went directly to the port to do battle with the touts. There was a two o'clock ferry, but the price wouldn't come down to what we wanted to pay - I'm sure that they were positive we'd pay whatever to leave right away - they were wrong. Negotiated a fair price on the four o'clock ferry. Went and had a quick snack and a cold drink - it was hot there after the mountains! Then we changed money and went in to the Egypt Air office to confirm our flights back to Egypt. We'd gone in to confirm our tickets on a whim - good thing, as for some reason the computer had me marked as waitlisted (despite it saying confirmed on my tickets). Because we're a full month ahead of our flight date we've confirmed before most people so they were able to give me a confirmed spot - I think they just moved someone else off the confirmed list to the waitlist! Then we did a quick email check and headed for the boat. Entry: The ferry took almost two hours across - nothing exciting. On the Zanzibar side there was the usual annoying rush to get off (no one is willing to wait here) then there was hassles with immigration. Zanzibar likes to pretend it's a different country from Tanzania so we have to go through immigration - never mind that of the three hundred people on the boat only six of us had to go through - just a small annoyance after a long day. Then we had to face the taxi drivers, hotel touts, tour operators, etc. I almost lost my cool with this guy who wanted to show us to a hotel. He smelled like he had been drinking and would not leave us alone. Even when I stopped glared at him and told him very rudely to go away he still kept spouting his "Hakuna Matata" (no worries) crap. Finally we got to the hotel we were looking for - and it was full. Found a room in seedy hotel around the corner. Our room actually turned out to be great - it was the penthouse - large, on the fifth story, adjacent to a rooftop patio, and with fabulous views of the Stone Town skyline - the only drawback was the cold water shower and toilet was shared. Entry: Unfortunately the room isn't available tomorrow night, so on our way out to eat we stopped at our first choice (a much nicer looking hotel) and made reservations to stay tomorrow. Walked down to Forodhani Gardens to eat. This is where all the street venders set up in the evening - you can get anything: fish, chicken, beef, lamb, lobster and crab, and lots of vegetarian puffs, pastries, etc. It wasn't nearly as cheap as I remember it, but we still both ate for three dollars total. After eating tried to walk around to some of the crafts stalls but we were too tired and ended up going back to the hotel to sleep.

July
29

Stone Town, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania
Found In: Photo: Stone Town skyline from hotel roof, Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Stone Town skyline from hotel roof, Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Stone Town skyline from hotel roof, Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Stone Town skyline from hotel roof, Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Stone Town skyline from hotel roof, Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Entry: Great storm last night and early this morning - driving rain and strong wind, and our room perched way on top was the perfect viewpoint! When we got up the rain was over and the streets were drying. Packed (our room was only available for one night so we have to move), had breakfast on our deck, and wandered around our floor taking photos of the Stone Town skyline and the streets below. Went by our new hotel, but the room wasn't ready yet. Went for a walk around and checked out a couple dive shops, but none of them operate out of Nungwi (north coast - where we want to go diving). Moved into our new hotel - much nicer. It cost a little more but that US$5 got us our own bathroom, air conditioning, a refrigerator, and nice furniture. Entry: In the afternoon signed up for a spice tour tomorrow, shopped (actually just looked), and had a light snack before returning to the hotel. Rested, worked on my journal and email then in the evening headed out again. Did some more shopping (well, looking), then hit the Africa House Hotel. It's the old British Officer's Club, and the ideal spot to have a beer or two and watch the sunset - so we did. Went back to the gardens for dinner. While we were waiting for our selections to cook Tristan - a friend of Amy's from Peace Corps Morocco walked up! We hung out in the gardens and talked to him through dinner and dessert, then the three of us went back to the Africa House. After a couple more beers Tristan headed off to his hotel (he's leaving tomorrow), and we had a short, late night Internet session, and then also headed to bed.

July
30

Stone Town, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania
Found In:

Entry: I was up all night with stomach problems so when the alarm off I was not feeling good. Very tired and severe stomach cramps. I had breakfast hoping it would settle my stomach but no such luck so we decided not to do the Spice Tour today and walked down to the port to reschedule for tomorrow. It was just as well as it rained all day. I spent the day in bed except for frequent runs to the toilet. In the evening I decided to risk food again and Amy and I went to a Chinese restaurant. It was expensive, but I really needed the comfort factor. After dinner Amy went back to the hotel to read and I went for a long walk then did internet. Back at the hotel we packed as there were no rooms available for tomorrow night so we'll need to move in the morning.

July
31

Stone Town, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania
Via Maruhubi Palace ruins; Nutmeg Plantation; Mangapwani (Coral Limestone Cave); and Mangapwani Beach Found In: Stop: Maruhubi Palace ruins, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania

Photo: Kids playing, Maruhubi Palace, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Building boat, Maruhubi Palace, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Entry: I had a rough night again, but late managed to get to sleep. In the morning my stomach was still bugging me, but the fever and toilet dependency seem to be over. So we packed, left our bags at the hotel and headed in to town to do the spice tour. As soon as we left the hotel it started to rain and the farther we went the harder it got. So much for our tour in the sun. I thought the tour was OK, I know Amy really enjoyed it, but I just have so much apathy towards tours. There were 20 of us in total and they took us to some ruins (a palace and a baths complex), spice plantations (cloves, nutmeg, pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, cocoa, lemon grass, and coffee), fruit orchards (mangosteen, papaya, jack fruit, star fruit, custard apple, bananas, and lychee), vegetable farms (cassava and various potatoes), a cave, and a beach. Entry: The ruins were the remains of various sultan's projects. Nothing too exciting and not really that old - just over a hundred years. The highlights were getting up close and personal with a roosting bat in one of the side rooms of the Persian baths, and the kids playing in the beached dhows at the palace. The spice and veggie farms were interesting - it was pretty amazing to be handed a leaf or branch to smell and / or taste and to immediately recognize the spice. The highlight of both the plantations and the orchards was definitely the tastings - unfortunately the rain was pretty consistent throughout that part. Lunch was at one of the plantations and was fantastic. The cave was a hole in the ground with a puddle at the bottom - not very exciting. Entry: The highlight of the entire day was the beach. We got a break in the rain for about an hour and it was wonderful to go for a swim. When we first got to the beach it was a deserted stretch of white sand with a few dug out canoes and a rotting dhow bounded by picturesque rocky cliffs at the ends and the bluest water and greenest jungle on the sides - perfect! Unfortunately just a few minutes after we got there other tours started to arrive and soon it was packed with people - but the water still felt great. Entry: After the tour we arranged to be picked up tomorrow morning to go to Nungwi (on the north coast), and checked into the lodge we stayed in our first night here. We were unable to get our penthouse again, but scored the room next to it - doesn't have quite the view but still pretty nice for a dive. Went out for a walk and ended up at Africa House to watch the sun (and a few beers) go down. I decided to ignore my stomach (it still hurts, but has seemed unaffected by anything I've eaten) so for dinner we went back to the gardens for street food.

August, 2000

August
1

Nungwi, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania
From Stone Town Found In: Route: Mini Bus: Stone Town - Nungwi

Weather: Rain / Mostly Sunny Photo: Women working on beach, Nungwi, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-608 Photo: Women working on beach, Nungwi, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-608 Photo: Working on the dhows, Nungwi, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 413-608 Entry: Woke up to another dreary rainy day. After breakfast climbed into a minibus for the scenic hour and a half drive to Nungwi at the northernmost tip of the island. Nungwi is very expensive and there were only two resorts that were somewhat affordable. We checked out one and didn't think much of it, but while walking to the other ran into some of the other passengers and the driver from our minibus and they told us the other place was full. So checked into the first resort - really unimpressed with the service. Entry: Checked the two dive shops - the one at our hotel is run by a French guy who really wasn't interested in talking to me. Walked down to the neighboring resort and had a pleasant chat with the dive shop manager - and signed up for a dive trip tomorrow. While down there found out that we could get discounted accommodation since we were diving and that there were rooms available?!? Made a reservation for a room tomorrow night - later talking with the others we decided the driver had told us the resort was full because they had refused to give him a cut (I saw our hotel hand him a wad of cash). Sat down on the deck over the beach and had a cold drink while waiting for the rain to slacken then walked back to our hotel. Back at our bungalow realized that the room was infested with fleas! We were reluctantly given another room which seems ok. Entry: The sun started to break through a little so we headed out for a walk down the beach. It's an incredible spot - soft, pure white sand and water that seems even bluer than yesterdays. Walked down the the beach getting our feet wet, picking up sea shells, and just enjoying the sand and water. Saw lots of locals collecting coral (probably for construction or lime) and seaweed (for ?) and everywhere we went there were kids beating octopus (must be a staple here). There are also dhows everywhere - anchored in the water, pulled up on the beach, and on shore in various stages of construction or repair (Nungwi is known as a dhow building center). Stopped for a beer at a posh resort so we could use the toilets and take cover from a sudden shower. After the rain stopped the sun really started to break through and we continued down the beach to a lighthouse. Here the tide had came up to far for us to continue. Entry: The tide had also blocked our return so we turned inland and walked back through the small village of thatched coral huts. Besides the unique coral construction the village wasn't terribly exciting (a very small market with a few kinds of fish), but it was really nice - especially with a ton of friendly kids calling out "Jambo!" everywhere we went. Just outside the village we came on a couple groups of trees covered with hundreds of giant spiders - at least five inches long! They were scary looking to - black heads, silver / white bodies and black and red stripped legs - I have no interest in walking around here after dark! Entry: By the time we got back to the hotel it was mid-afternoon and there wasn't a cloud in the sky - it was beach time. Spent a couple hours on what little of the beach was left - swim a little, read a little, swim a little, etc. When the sun got to low in the sky went back to the room and changed. Watched the relatively unexciting sunset (there were some low clouds on the horizon that hid it) and had a few beers on the deck of our neighboring resort (where we're moving tomorrow - it's also where we went to the beach).

August
2

Nungwi, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania
Found In: Entry: Up early - checked out of our hotel and left our luggage at the adjacent resort. It was amazing how difficult this was - everyone wanted to know if we needed a new place, trying to get a room without a tout taking his cut was like fighting the mafia. Went to the dive club, got our gear together, and waded out to the dive boat. Entry: It was a long trip out to Mnemba Atoll - at least an hour an a half down the east coast of the island. The sun really started to come through just as we were getting to the atoll. The island is a privately owned resort (supposedly US $550 a night!) and was a luxuriant green with sparkling white beaches - a couple roofs were visible, but not a soul. The first dive was really nice - not fantastic, but just really pleasant. The visibility was pretty good (about 60 feet) and there were lots of fish and some great sheet coral. The highlight of the dive was a couple smallish turtles seen in the distance. The only real problem was the number of people it was a guided dive so we had to stick with the dive master as there was about a dozen of us it felt a little crowded - especially at the beginning when the order was getting figured out. When we got out of the water the sun was definitely out - good thing too as we were cold. The water was nice at 79°F (26&feg;C) - but in thin, short wetsuits by the end of the hour dive I was shivering. Entry: Warmed up in the sun and had a great lunch of cheese and veggies on chipotes and talked for our hour between dives. The second dive was a little frustrating. We really had just started to get warm when it was time to get wet again, the visibility wasn't as nice, and there wasn't as much to look at. The dive was supposed to be a drift dive along a wall, but the wall was more a steeply slanted floor, and the currents were random and confused making the dive awkward. Amy got really frustrated trying to maintain neutral buoyancy with the currents, the waves and being a little under weighted. By the end of the second dive we were all shivering. The ride back was spent trying to warm up (and getting a little sun burnt in the process) and watching the deserted beaches slide by. Entry: Back at the hotel Amy and I laid on the beach. The sun felt so good, especially when tempered with frequent swims in the water. In the evening went to the bar deck to watch the sun set, but again a thin line of clouds on the horizon prevented us from seeing it. We played cards, drank beer, and had dinner before heading to bed.

August
3

Nungwi, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania
Found In:

Weather: Rain / Mostly Sunny Entry: Slept in until 9:30 - yea! After breakfast started off for a walk down the beach - heading south down the west coast this time. Made it just past Kwenda when it started to rain. We took cover in a hotel restaurant and when it stopped raining started walking again. It immediately started raining again - and this time hard. The sky looked like it wasn't going to stop soon and the tide was starting to rise so we headed back to Nungwi. By the time we got back we were soaking wet. Took cover in our restaurant and had a late lunch and read. About three the sun finally broke through. We walked next door and arranged for a ride back into Stone Town tomorrow. Then hung out on the beach for one last time. In the evening played cards and watched the sun set from our deck. Anticipating internet access in Stone Town tomorrow I stayed up late getting caught up on email.

August
4

Stone Town, Zanzibar (Unguja), Tanzania
From Nungwi Found In: Route: Mini Bus: Nungwi - Stone Town Entry: Our nine o'clock min-bus showed up at ten - when are we going to learn to arrange to wait in the room? Then when the bus did show up we had to drive around for thirty minutes looking for more passengers before returning to where we started! It was all delightfully African. In Stone Town we checked back in to the Bottoms Up Lodge. We were excited because our favorite room (the "penthouse") was available, but then they couldn't find the key so we ended up in the other top floor room. Entry: Spent the afternoon shopping. I've been considering sending an antique clock home, but after checking with DHL decided I really didn't need one (a half kilogram was US $45!) We managed to get lost but off the tourist streets it's Friday afternoon - prayer time - so not much was open. Checked on ferry times for tomorrow afternoon - there's a 1:30 and 4:30 ferry. Sat at a cafe on the water for awhile, then went back to the hotel room for a rest. Entry: We were starving, so ended up skipping the sunset at Africa House and going to the gardens for an early dinner. After dinner went by the internet cafe - after tomorrow there will probably be no access for quite a while (Malawi seems doubtful).

August
5

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
From Stone Town, Zanzibar (Unguja) Found In: Lodging: Safari Inn Entry: Had breakfast then headed to the port to check on ferries again. The touts vying for their commission were incredibly annoying and it was a major headache just to find out the times of the various ferry lines. Spent the afternoon shopping but didn't buy anything. We tried to call the Safari Inn in Dar es Salaam to make reservations (we had hoped to splurge a little and at least get a warm shower) but they were full. Wandered around some more and got lost. Eventually ended up at the old slave market (now a cathedral) and then at the market. When we'd stopped for a coke we were able to rationalize Amy buying some souvenirs so we went back for more shopping. Amy ended up buying a very cool batik kanga (sarong) but we couldn't find a good enough frame (the other thing she'd decided to buy). Entry: Decided to try and make the 1:30 ferry and bought a ticket (from the office - just to spite the annoying touts who get nothing from the main office). Got on the ferry and had a very rough ride back - lots of people being very sea sick made it pretty unpleasant even for those of us who weren't. Took a taxi to a new hotel that we had hoped to stay at but it was full too. So we walked by the Safari just in case - and they had one room! Actually the same room we stayed in on our arrival to Tanzania. Called the bus line and made reservations for tomorrow morning's 6:15 bus to Mbeya. Spent the evening working on email, then having dinner (back at the same restaurant), and then at the internet cafe. Before retiring we arranged taxi for early tomorrow morning.

August
6

Mbeya, Tanzania
From Dar es Salaam Found In:

Entry: Up before dawn to get a taxi to our bus. We got to the station to find that they'd only reserved one seat for us! Luckily there were two seats extra, but unluckily it was the back row - right over the wheels. Our seats made the first hour out of Dar very uncomfortable (it's a very rough road) - I think my back is going to have some problems tomorrow. The trip made for a very long day on the bus - nearly twelve hours! On the bus we met an English couple, Ian and Claire who are also heading for Malawi. Entry: In Mbeya the four of us checked out the bus situation for tomorrow - there are no buses going through the border so we'll have to catch a bus and walk across and then hopefully catch another bus on the Malawi side. There were some touts who really wanted to sell us a ticket for their 6:30 bus going all the way to the border. We tentatively agreed to come back in the morning. We caught a taxi to the mission that sounded like our best bet for accommodation. At the guest house we looked at the rooms - cute enough and reasonably priced - so we agreed to take them. We then asked about the toilets and were told they were in the rooms - looked again and sure enough each room had it's own bathroom - with hot water! Amy was so surprised she was convinced I was joking and kept asking if we really had hot water. Later when I sat down on the bed I got another surprise - the beds had incredibly soft feather beds on them! Entry: It being Sunday there was no food available at the center so the four of us set off on a quest for dinner. Ended up at the Esso gas station a twenty minute walk down the road - it was the only thing open. It was also packed and turned out to be quite good.

August
7

Chitimba, Malawi
From Mbeya, Tanzania Found In: Region: Northern Province Route: Bus: Mbeya - Songwe River Bridge; Walk across border; Minibus: Border crossing - Karonga; Bus: Karonga - Chitimba Entry: Our six o'clock taxi failed to show so the four of us (Amy and I, and Claire and Ian) started the four kilometer hike back to town. About half way to the bus station a bus pulled over - it was the touts who were trying to sell us a ticket to the border yesterday - when we didn't show they'd come looking for us! The bus was going all the way to the border - unlike most of the transport which would dump us with a seven kilometer walk to the actual border. I'm pretty sure we were way overcharged but it was still only US$ 3 and it got us on our way (and saved us another mile of walking with out packs). The bus started off as a bit of a nightmare - multiple half hour stops - I started to worry about getting to the border before it closes at 6pm. But just when I'd give up (early three hours to go half way) the bus stopped stopping and we were at the border in twenty more minutes. Entry: At the Tanzanian immigration office they wouldn't issue us another visa for our return, but told us we could get one there on our way back - no problem - so we'll keep our fingers crossed. Walked the couple hundred yards across the border under a constant barrage from money changers - theses were real pests. Malawi immigration, health, and customs were all friendly and polite and we passed through quickly. On the other side we were surrounded by money changers again - only on this side they were polite and respectful - much less insistent. I just changed $20 to have some cash until I could figure out what a fair exchange rate is (I changed at 58 Kwacha to the dollar, but we were later offered 60 - I'm guessing that the official rate is much lower). We almost immediately caught a minibus to Karonga (well it left the border immediately, but we stopped for an hour in a nearby village while the car filled up). Got to Karonga around noon and one of the guys from our car showed us the bus to Mzuzu which could drop Amy and I off at Chitumba (where we wanted to spend the night). We ended up having to wait two hours for the bus to fill up - but used the time to adjust to how much cheaper it is Malawi (i.e. a coke is almost half the cost of over the border). After we finally started the ride to Chitumba was only an hour. It should have been much less, but there were so many stops to pick up more people - it's incredible how many passengers are packed on. By the time we got off the ride was getting very uncomfortable. We said goodbye to Claire and Ian (we'll probably see them again in Nkhata Bay), as they were continuing on to Mzuzu - and we started walking. Entry: We'd picked a place outside of Chitumba to stay at, but when we got there it was full. It's mostly a campsite and the few chalets they have were taken. They said we could camp on the beach but it's quite windy (the lake has actual surf rolling in), so we asked if they had a tent we could borrow (or rent) - they didn't. The manager (owner?) agreed to ask some of the overland trucks (there are three staying here) if they had a spare tent and then came back to us with a room key. One of the drivers had given up his room for us. The room was a very cute bamboo hut with a sand floor and little patio area right on the beach - very basic, but also just perfect. We'll even have the sound of surf to fall asleep to! Entry: Spent the rest of the night in the lounge area - drank a few beers and had a good chicken curry for dinner. We asked about options for getting up the escarpment to Livingstonia - there's only one and that's to walk - about ten miles all very steep uphill. We were planning on heading on tomorrow, but we've been traveling so hard the last several days and this place is so nice that we decided to stay tomorrow here then head up to Livingstonia the next day.

August
8

Chitimba, Malawi
Found In: Entry: After to many days on the go it was wonderful to sleep in. Spent the morning lounging around, looking out our open window (the entire front of the hut hinges up) at the beach, and working on my journal. Later taught Amy (and re-taught myself) the east African game of bao and had brunch in the camp's lounge. Spent the afternoon on a long walk into the village of Chitimba - just a few huts and a couple small stores. Still felt like walking some more so then continued walking on to the next village - even fewer huts. While walking back we stopped at a post office to check on postal rates - some of the carvings here are beckoning me. Played with some kids - one of them, "Ledge"?, accompanied us on the entire walk - never saying more than one word at a time. Basically just spent the afternoon walking around and basking in the positive attention - everyone has a smile and a polite greeting for you - a welcome change from Tanzania (where everyone followed their polite greeting with a demand for money). Also tried to change some money but couldn't find anything near the rate we got yesterday - finally found someone who agreed to give us 55 Kwacha to the dollar, but he didn't have the money on him so we'll have to walk down in the morning. Entry: In the evening we hung out in the lounge and had another tasty dinner. We also spent some time quizzing the staff about our transport options from Chitimba on to Nkhata Bay and about our hike to Livingstonia tomorrow. After we arranged a guide for the hike, we finished off the night playing cards, trying to play pool (the table was seriously warped), having a few beers, and just basically relaxing.

August
9

Livingstonia, Malawi
From Chitimba Found In: End Location: Livingstonia, Malawi Route: On Foot: Trail: Chitimba - Livingstonia Photo: Lake from trail, Livingstonia Trail, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: View from mission bell tower towards lake, Livingstonia, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: View from mission bell tower towards Nyika Plateau, Livingstonia, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Livingstonia Mission, Livingstonia, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Old house, Livingstonia, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Entry: We managed to get up nice and early. After we packed I walked a couple kilometers down the road to exchange some money so that we could pay our bill. Also picked up four bottles of water and some bread for our trek. After moving our left luggage - we're only carrying the absolute minimum (sleeping bags and a change of clothes) - we were ready to go. <>Before leaving I walked down on the beach to take a photo of our hut and discovered my camera is broken. When I take a photo the shutter opens and stays open until I turn the camera off - not good. I sat down and fiddled with the camera (changed film, looked for dirt, and changed batteries) but nothing seemed to fix it. Then after about fifteen minutes it started working again. Hmm... Entry: Hired a local guy to take us up the trail which will cut five kilometers off the road - though at the cost of it being a steeper climb. The trail was steep and our guide was quick. I kept up with him for the first hour then died - I think I would have been ok had I paced myself, but I didn't and I was hurting. Frequent rests, and two and a half painful hours after starting we leveled off near the top of the ridge. The view back were magnificent - as they had been the entire hike, but I'd been to occupied to really appreciate them. Our guide pointed us in the right direction then took off and we wandered through the village. It's a bit bizarre, beautiful old Victorian brick and cut stone houses with porches and fantastic gardens - completely surreal after the surrounding thatched clay huts! Entry: We met amazingly friendly people who were so excited to welcome us to their town and tell us a little about it before continuing on their way. We'd decided to stay in "The Stone House" - the original house that Robert Laws (the Scottish missionary who founded Livingstonia) built just over a hundred years ago. It's a big stone house with a huge porch still furnished with the original, if worn, furniture. After sitting for an hour just to recover we got up and wandered around the village. Checked out the original mission - even climbed the bell tower to get the most incredible satellite photo like views of the lake to the east and the Nyika plateau to the west. Then we wandered back through the town to the old hospital - a large beautiful rambling brick structure with great gardens. Somewhere in this walk my camera broke again and I couldn't get it to work at all. Entry: By this time I could barely stand any longer so we went back to the house and played cards until dinner time. Dinner was basic, but very good - rice, beans, and veggies. As soon as dinner was over we went to bed - I'm sure I was sound asleep before eight!

August
10

Chitumba, Malawi
From Livingstonia via Manchewe Falls Found In: Route: On Foot: Road: Livingstonia - Chitimba Photo: The Stone House, Livingstonia, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: The Stone House, Livingstonia, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Lake View, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Manchewe Falls edge, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Second of Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Second of Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Second of Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Lake view, Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Red flowers, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Weird spider, Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Looking down Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-723 Photo: Amy, Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Me, Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Me, Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Hut, Livingstonia Road, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Entry: Slept in until nearly eight - definitely enough sleep considering we were in bed before eight last night! Surprisingly I didn't feel sore. I worked with my camera and determined that the problem is with my wide angle (22-55 mm) lens - with the zoom lens everything works perfectly. I'm bummed my regular lens isn't working, but at least I can take some photos. Wandered around the Stone House looking at the flowers and views. Had a breakfast of fried things that were half way between pancakes and biscuits - good. After breakfast we started walking. We decided to follow the road for the hike down. That made the walk two or three miles longer, but kept it to a reasonable grade - much nicer on my knees. Entry: About forty minutes into the walk we branched off to go visit Manchewe falls. A short hike brought us to the top of a huge waterfall. Continuing along the trail gave us glimpses back at that water fall and of another even higher waterfall. Several hundred yards down the path we ended up in a clearing on the edge of the escarpment with breathtaking views back towards the waterfalls and down a canyon to the distant Lake Malawi. Both falls look to be some three or four hundred feet of free falling water - very impressive. Entry: After taking pictures (grrr - I really would have liked my wide angle lens here) and sitting admiring the view (ok, and resting) we headed back up the path to the first spot at the top of the first falls. I wanted to scramble down a bit to get to the actual drop off - I always need to look over the edge. Back at the viewpoint the three other people that stayed at the Stone House last night were already down where I wanted to go. Amy was a little concerned with the climb and they'd already left their packs at the top. So she left her pack with theirs. Shortly after we climbed down the other group left and we continued looking around and taking pictures. About ten minutes later we climbed back up and... no bag! We saw the other group and they said her bag was there when they left so in the five or so minutes between us someone took her bag. There was nothing of any real value in the bag, mostly just dirty clothes, toiletries, and her sleeping bag - but also some small things like her alarm clock, Swiss Army knife, and sunglasses case. We hiked back up the road to where there was a group of locals selling fruit and passed on word that we were offering a $40 reward if the bag was brought to us at our place in Chitimba. We stopped back at the main falls view point, at the permaculture camp, and at a tea house further down to make the same offer. I could tell the reward was a probably a bit high because people would go rushing off as soon as they understood what we were offering. Entry: We continued down the road doing our best to ignore the loss and to appreciate the views - which were spectacular. We figured that there was at least a chance that the bag would be waiting for us when we got to the camp. The walk kept going and going. About half way down it was amazing to look back and see how far we'd come - the ridge where Livingstonia sits was a long way up and back! Then to look down and see how far we had to go, it was a long hike! At the bottom we turned at the main lake road and somehow made it back to camp - nearly twenty kilometers later (though my feet felt like it was more). Unfortunately the pack wasn't there. Talking to Gisa (the camp owner) there's never been anything returned even though rewards have been offered in the past - so it looks like the stuff is gone. We reminded ourselves of how lucky we were - there really was nothing of importance in the bag - no passport, money, or camera - all things that would usually have been there. The biggest losses were the two decks of cards and the guide book - but we can talk to each other for entertainment and we weren't all that thrilled with the guide book anyway. Entry: Had a few beers, then went and had a very much needed shower. Had dinner in the lounge and spent the evening talking with Gisa. We had a few more drinks then tried to figure out our route to Mzuzu tomorrow. We mentioned to Gisa that we were going to go up to the road and start looking for a ride at six. She said that if we were still there at eight she could probably get us a lift. She had arranged a ride in to Mzuzu with an overland truck. The idea of a couple more hours sleep and a quick, comfortable ride to town sounded good to us so we had a few more drinks waiting for the driver to show up. It turned out there'd be no problem with us catching a ride as the truck was going to be virtually empty.

August
11

Nkhata Bay, Malawi
From Chitumba Found In: Route: Overland Truck: Chitimba - Mzuzu; Minibus: Mzuzu - Nkhata Bay Entry: In the morning we had to wait for the overland truck we'd hitched a ride with to get on its way. Only one of its passengers had to go into Mzuzu to get a visa squared away so it was mostly empty. Pretty luxurious way of traveling - nice reclining airplane style seats, huge open windows, and good shocks. So we got to sleep in, had reliable and comfortable transport, it took half the time public transport would have and it didn't cost us anything! Entry: Got to Mzuzu before eleven. Ran around with our packs getting our errands done - changed money at the bank (55.1 Kwacha to the dollar), hit the pharmacy, and went to the supermarket (various sundries, yogurt, and ice cream!) We rather liked Mzuzu, but it was uncomfortable exploring with all our luggage - we're entertaining the idea of coming back without it, or having some time to explore it on our way out of Nkhata Bay. Entry: We walked out of town to the bus station and immediately caught a van heading our way. The disadvantage was that the van was almost full so we got the worst seats, but that meant we didn't have to wait hours for it to fill up - plus it was only an hour drive so it wasn't too uncomfortable (they did manage to squeeze 27 people into the van though). Entry: As we came down the hill into Nkhata Bay we could look out over the beautiful bay setting. Unlike Chitimba the lake actually looks like a lake here - or maybe Puget Sound - the dense green vegetation and oddly harmonious buildings run right to the water's rocky edge. After we ditched the hotel touts (difficult) we headed for the dive shop. We were hoping to arrange a dive for tomorrow but they're fully booked so hopefully Sunday. We asked the guy at the dive shop about accommodation and he recommended the same place Gisa (the owner of Chitimba Beach Camp) had. We'd been planning to hike to the next bay over, but with the heat, the uphill road, and our packs we decided to at least check out the place they'd recommended. By the time we'd hiked down the trail to the level of the lake I knew there was no way we were going to be staying anyplace else. It wasn't a problem as the place turned out to be fantastic - it's another budget type camp, but it's spread out over a very steep hill that's beautifully landscaped. At the bottom is a pretty little rocky cove on the lake, with the restaurant perched above it. From there little huts are scattered around the slope. Ours is about a hundred feet above the water - very basic, but also very clean, cute, cozy, and cheap. The bathrooms are communal, but the shower is open to the sky and has a fantastic view out over the lake - very nice (though a little disconcerting). Entry: After checking in we sat down in the bar and had fruit smoothies (yum!) and went over some of our options for the remainder of our time in Malawi. I'd realized that since we weren't going to take the lake steamer (it just wouldn't be pleasant in the rough water) with the saved days it might be possible to make it into and across Zambia to Victoria Falls. We'll have to do some research to see if it's really possible. The other option is to go to the Vwaza National park game reserve and possible down to Lilongwe or out to some of the lake islands (again doubtful due to the rough water). So many options... Entry: The rest of the afternoon was spent sunning and swimming. In the evening there was a barbecue. I misunderstood what time it was supposed to start so Amy and I were at the bar a couple hours early - so we had a few beers. We ran into Claire and Ian (from Mbeya and crossing into Malawi) so had beers, then dinner and beers, then beers again with them. Ended up being a pretty late night - but a nice welcome to Nkhata Bay.

August
12

Nkhata Bay, Malawi
Found In: Entry: Woke up too early for how many beers I'd had last night but just couldn't sleep any longer. It was another beautiful day so we dragged ourselves down to the beach and recovered through more swimming and sunning. We assuaged our guilt over choosing to laze in the sun by turning in our laundry on our way - so at least we accomplished something this morning (or paid someone to accomplish something). After a couple hours in the sun we went into the bar to borrow a travel guide, have some cold drinks and do some more planning. With the time we have we could definitely make it through Zambia to Victoria Falls - but it would be tight and any foul-ups would result in us having to do three or four back to back long travel days. We still need to get some first hand knowledge. Entry: In the early afternoon we wandered in to town. We tried once again to book a dive but no one was at the dive shop. Had a huge lunch (it was supposed to be a late breakfast, but was more likely a very early dinner). After eating we tried the dive shop again - there was still no one. We wandered around the central market and Amy bought some wax print fabric and had a sarong made. We also wandered through the fish market down on the harbor, and bought water in the supermarket. Tried to browse the many crafts stalls, but most of them had close for the afternoon. Hit the dive shop again and finally managed to organize a dive for tomorrow. Walked back to Mayoka Village (our camp) and watched the sunset. We decided to check out the resident carver's wares and Amy ended up buying a very nice bao board. Entry: We spent the rest of the evening with borrowed guide books and worked out a couple tentative itineraries. Talking to the dive guy and one of the owners of our camp we realized that the islands (Chizumulu and Likoma) are both doable and worth doing so we're going to stay in Nkhata Bay until Tuesday night and take the ferry to Chizumulu. We'll stay there and / or on Likoma until we catch the return ferry back to Nkhata late Saturday. After that we can either head to Vwaza or Lilongwe - depending on our inclination and how the bus schedules work out. Zambia will have to wait for another trip. We then played a very long game (two plus hours) of bao on Amy's new board - she won.

August
13

Nkhata Bay, Malawi
Found In: Entry: Up early so we could have breakfast before our dive. Walked into town stopping briefly to peruse one of the craft stalls. The dive was Ok - not bad, not great. The visibility was only about 15 feet - whereas yesterday it looked like it was about 60. We saw lots of brightly colored fish but there isn't anything else but rocks and sand (and fish poop) - it so much feels as if you're diving in a giant fishbowl. The highlight of the dive was the mouth brooders - mother fish that suck their babies into their mouth when they feel threatened. Entry: After the dive we went back to the craft stalls to explore some more. Once again Amy bought some treasures while I walked away empty handed - it's not fair. We headed back towards our place then decided to go on around to check out the next cove. The walk to Njaya Lodge was much longer than we thought - it's a good thing we got distracted by Mayoka Village (our place), as I don't think we would have made it all the way with our packs. The lodge itself looks fairly nice, but not much nicer than ours, and it lacks the atmosphere that Mayoka has. We had a lunch of fruit lassies and garlic bread then headed back to or place via the beach. There is a nice stretch of sandy beach next to Njaya. Entry: Back at Mayoka we walked down to look at Norman's, the resident carver's, wares again. I really like one of the chairs he has and talked to him about maybe getting a second similar chair made. His prices are negotiable and start more reasonable that the carvers in town, and I think his work is much better than most. I haven't made up my mind yet, but I think I'm going to have some chairs made for me. Entry: We went for a great, though slightly chilling, evening swim. Had a social dinner in the lounge then sat around talking. Late in the evening after many beers and some free whiskey shots (never did figure out why) was a surreal moment - there was a big group of us sitting around talking when an little old man came up and said "Does anyone want some chocolate? I'm going now." I thought maybe he was making a run to the store and I was tempted as I'd just been craving chocolate, but I got distracted. A few minutes later I looked over and saw a table with a big pile of chocolate bars and realized that he must come in at night to satisfy the munchies people seem to develop.

August
14

Nkhata Bay, Malawi
Found In: Entry: Since we're leaving tomorrow we decided to put in another load of laundry - might as well start off with everything clean. In the morning trekked in to town and spent some time exploring the crafts shops. This time I was focusing on chairs, but I didn't see any that even came close to Norman's (Mayoka's resident carver). We had lunch at a local's restaurant, it was quite good and cheaper than the camp's so I think we'll be back tomorrow. After lunch we walked up to the post office so Amy could mail a letter. While we were there we talked to some English girls who were sending chairs back to the UK. They had been sitting there for an hours pasting nearly 350 six Kwacha (about 11 cents) stamps on to the parcel - it was probably a yard long and almost every inch was covered with stamps. Since it looks like I'm going to buy a couple chairs that could be me in a few days! Entry: After the post office we walked through the central market and this time I bought some cloth and had a sarong tailored - I'd turned mine in to be washed and I want to go swimming. On our way back we checked out a few more craft stalls but didn't buy anything. Entry: Back at Mayoka we went for an afternoon swim then sat in the last of the sun. Later I wandered down to Norman's hut and negotiated for a coupe chairs. I ended up buying two - one that's already been carved, and one that will be ready when we get back from the islands next Sunday. The one I bought has a stylized with an simple elephant. The one I commissioned will be the same with a rhino instead of an elephant. Entry: After are huge lunch we decided to skip dinner but of course I ended up hungry. I got the kitchen to make me a toasted avocado and cheese sandwich that was perfect. Before bed we played another game of bao and this time I managed to win...

August
15

Chizumulu Island, Malawi
From Nkhata Bay Found In: Entry: Slept in! First thing, visited Norman (my carver) to drop off the deposit on the chairs. We had a banana shake for breakfast at Mayoka then walked in to town. In the market I negotiated to buy some frames, and Amy shopped for fabric. After she found the pattern she wanted we went to the tailor to have him make a skirt and some bags. Had a huge lunch of curry and nsima (the local staple goo) at Jonathan's (the same place we had lunch yesterday). After lunch walked back in to the market and I picked up half the frames I ordered - the others should be ready when we're back next Sunday. We played cards overlooking the water in the Safari restaurant to kill time until Amy's skirt was ready. Picked up the skirt and bags - it all looks good, not bad for $1.60 worth of tailoring. We walked back to Mayoka, and I just hung out until it was time to head for the ferry. Entry: About seven thirty we walked back in to town to wait for the ferry there. Katherine (the co-owner of Mayoka) and her sister were also heading for the ferry so there was a group of us. We stopped in the Safari restaurant to hang out until the ferry sounded its hour warning horn, but Amy and I got a little nervous and headed out. On the ferry we fought our way through the lower deck and went up to the first class deck. The economy decks were absolutely packed - we were quite literally climbing over people and baggage. The upper deck was almost completely deserted - a couple small groups of people and a couple tents was it. We got a couple cheap beers from the bar and settled down on a bench. Minutes after we sat down the horn sounded, and minutes after that the ferry was on its way - so much for the hour warning! Katherine and her sister did make it, but it was close. Entry: The Ilala must be fifty years old - it's (or at least was) a beautiful ship with teak decks and graceful lines. Shortly after leaving the dock the bar closed and there was no food to be had on board either. It was to windy and rough to read so we tried to sleep. It wasn't terribly cold, but every once in awhile the boat would hit a big wave and even the top deck would get some spray. Didn't get much sleep but the views of the moon (nearly full) and stars between the clouds provided entertainment. Just after midnight we got to Chizumulu - only three and a half hours and I was glad to get off. When we first got on we were a little disappointed that we'd been unable to arrange for a longer trip, but by the time we got off I thought three hours was enough. Entry: The stampede for exit was incredible - even ridiculous when I realized that most people weren't getting off, they were just swarming the exit to watch the action. Getting into the shore boat was mad - people literally climbing over people - I was really surprised that no one got hurt. When it was absolutely impossible to put another person in the boat we headed for shore. On shore we had to wade out then thread or way through the people crouched on the sand waiting to get on. We really had no idea which way to go so we headed for the only lights. That got us to the retreat - the only place to stay on the island. Then we had to wait about half an hour until the manager got back - he'd gone out to pick us (or those like us) up! Our reed hut is very basic - just a bed, a kerosene lamp, no floor, no electricity, and no lock. The highlight of the retreat is a huge old hollow baobab tree which houses the bar - it's like the keebler elves' pub. The bad news is that the owner who normally runs the diving is on holidays, so no diving of Chizumulu. We decides to stay tomorrow then head to Likoma (the next island towards Mozambique) the next day to dive.

August
16

Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Found In: Photo: Amy in hammock, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: Fishing boats, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Sailing dhow, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Fishing boats, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Sailing dhow, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Sailing dhow, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Sailing dhow, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Photo: Fishing boats, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 185-040 Photo: Mainland Malawi, Chizumulu Island, Malawi
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 215-410 Entry: Woke up to find that we really are on an island paradise. Beautiful white sand beaches and very few other people. Even if we can't dive it's still a nice place to hang out. We had a late breakfast and just lounged around. We'd planned on doing a short hike up the "mountain", a small hill behind our hut, so we could survey the small island before heading out to walk around it. The hill is a lot higher than it looks, and the hike ended up taking us two hours. The view was worth it though, and looking around it was amazing to really realize just how small Chizumulu is. Entry: After getting down from the hill we stopped for a well needed cold drink. We set off to circumnavigate the island. The walk was beautiful. One of the dogs from the retreat accompanied us and everywhere we went people were very friendly and polite. Hardly any of the "Give me money!" demands that are so common elsewhere in Africa. The landscape is mostly countless weird and wonderful baobab trees, occasional cassava patches, and a few small groups of huts. The huts all seem fairly prosperous - nice mud brick with covered patios. Also passed a couple small fishing fleets (canoes and dhows), and a football (soccer) field. There was a game with Nkhata Bay just starting and it looked like nearly the entire population of the island was there or on its way. Entry: Walking around the island took us about three hours and was hot work. Back at the retreat we had a swim and enjoyed the last of the evening sun. Walked out to the nearby point to watch an incredible sunset. The sun set behind another point silhouetting some giant old baobabs. Entry: We asked one of the local managers about catching the daily dhow (small sailboat) to Likoma Island. It turns out that the boat leaves everyday between ten and one - depending on the wind. He promised to ask around in the morning and let us know when it was likely to go.

August
17

Likoma Island, Malawi
From Chizumulu Island Found In: Route: Sailing Dhow: Chizumulu Island - Likoma Island Entry: We got up early so that we could have breakfast before hiking over to catch the dhow to Likoma. At breakfast we were told that the boat had been completely hired to go to Mozambique. We still might be able to get on it as it's going to overnight on Likoma but it's going to depend on the other passengers. Worse, if we can't get on it today we won't be able to go tomorrow or the next day as the boat will be in Mozambique. The other option is to charter a boat (most likely a fishing dhow or a dugout canoe) which we were told would be expensive. Asking a few more questions it turns out the expensive means realatively expensive it might cost us $8 instead of a $1.50. We got the name of the dhow captain, and of someone who might charter us a boat if the dhow fails and headed off. Entry: The walk to the otherside of the island was nice, but longer than I'd remembered it. Got to the fishing harbor where the dhow was supposed to leave from around ten fifteen and started asking around. Found the captain and was told that there shouldn't be a problem with us going and that the boat would leave at twelve or one. We sat down in the shade and I tried to work on my journal but we were instant celebraties and the constant interuptions meant I didn't get anything done. Entry: Watched them fit a patchwork sail on to what we had assumed was a derilict boat, then at about eleven thirty they started loading. Most of the passengers were women - and the boat was absolutely packed. By the time they squeezed Amy and I on there were fifty three of us! On a normal day the boat would take five or six passengers - I asked. The sail is incredible - full of holes and made from perhaps a hundred separate scraps of cloth - we even recognized a pair of jeans near the mast! Amy and I sort of nervously looked at each other - I mentioned that we'd been looking for an adventrue. Amy says she's glad she knows how to swim. Entry: The first three or four hundred yards took us over an hour and a half as there was no wind and two of the crew had to paddle. After that the wind picked up and at least the boat moved. Just after we launched we had a great surprise. The women burst into an incredible series of songs. Their voices were so beautiful - Amy and I just grinned dumbly at each other. Entry: It turned out the group that hired the boat was going to Mozambique to compete in a music festival. That first hour was undoubtably one of the highlights of my trip. It was beautiful, it was adventure, it was unexpected, and it was so real. I so wish that I had had a video camera or at least a tape recorder. Entry: Unfortunately shortly after the wind picked up the singing died out. Many (most?) of the women ended up seasick. Between the retching and several crying babies the next hour was audibly almost painful - especialy in contrast. The last hour the wind picked up even more, the boat steadied some and the dhow was quiet and peaceful. We pulled up on the beach at the main town (maybe five buildings?) and unloaded. Entry: We were fantastically lucky with the trip. Both he fact that we got a ride and with the experience. I got pretty sunburned. We'd put sunscreen on - much to the amusement and I'm sure puzzlement of the rest of the passengers - but it was already to late. We got directions from the captain and set out on the hike to Mango Drift on the other side of the island. Mango Drift is the budget camp and the only spot on the island that has diving. The walk was pretty - lot's more baobabs. It took us about an hour to hike over and by the time we arived we each had one or two kids hanging off each hand. Sometimes its fun to be an event. Entry: At the camp we sat down at the bar (on the sand, built around a giant mango tree) and had a well needed beer while waiting for our hut. We were unexpected as it wasn't a ferry day so it took awhile for them to prepare the room. Our hut sat under a baobab - still grass, but with a stone floor and a wooden door. After moving in we went for a swim and then hung out until dinner. We asked about diving but there's a class going on and they only have enough equipment for the students so it's looking unlikely...

August
18

Likoma Island, Malawi
Found In: Entry: Lazy day. Spent the day at the beach in front of our hut. Swam, sunned, and read. Had an early lunch and went back to the beach. Dinner was a more social event and the cook baked a chocolate cake for someone's birthday. It was interesting - He didn't use any sugar or eggs (we think) so it wasn't quite a success. I actually liked the cake, but no one else did.

August
19

Nkhata Bay, Malawi
From Likoma Island Found In: Entry: Went for a long walk to the next resort over. It's actually a short walk on the road, but we walked along the coast. Actually more of a scramble than a walk as most of the coast was very rocky. It was a beautiful hike and we even saw some animal life - mostly birds - but also a surprise. Since we've been swimming in Lake Malawi Amy has been asking questions about whether I think it's safe from crocodiles and hippos - and I've been teasing her. Well today on our hike, just around the corner from where we've been swimming, we startled a sunning croc! Actually we were just as startled despite it's diminutive size - it was only about two feet long. But the important bit was that there are definitely crocodiles around and we were definitely a lot more aware of where we stepped from there on! Entry: The resort was beautiful. It consisted of a group of rock chalets nestled on a rocky hill between two sandy beaches. The main lodge was at the peak and would have fit in anywhere in the pacific northwest. We had a nice lunch and talked to one of the managers. They charge $25 per person a night - a lot more than the $3 we're paying, but a lot less than you'd expect looking at the place (though we were told they're hoping to move that up to $100). After lunch we sat around and admired the view (and the very cold drinks) and played cards. Entry: We walked back on the road - no crocs! Back at Mango Drift we packed our bag and then spent the rest of the afternoon sitting on the beach. In the evening we caught a ride in Kaya Mawa's motor launch to the ferry. It was a very rough ride and we probably could have walked as fast but it had the advantage of dropping us off on the ferry so we didn't have to deal with the trauma of fighting for a ride out. We sat on the ferry from six until nine - drinking what must be the cheapest and coldest beers in Malawi. When the ferry did leave the ride was surprisingly smooth. Entry: The crossing to Chizumulu only took an hour but then we had to sit at anchor for three hours while cargo and passengers were unloaded and loaded. While we were anchored we fell asleep but once we started moving the wind was too cold. Finally got to Nkhata Bay around three. I was pretty much a wreck by then - luckily Mayoka had sent the boat to pick us up so we didn't even have to walk. But when we got to Mayoka there were only two rooms available but people enough for four - luckily we were given one since we were the only ones who made reservations. Unluckily the room we were given turned out to be occupied already. So we were offered a tent. I was pissed - all I wanted was to get in bed and be able to sleep in and instead I had to set up a tent with the knowledge that I was going to be woken up at the dawn - I was definitely not a happy camper.

August
20

Nkhata Bay, Malawi
Found In: Entry: Sun woke us up at dawn after only two hours of sleep. Tossed and turned for a couple hours longer until the tent was just to hot to stay in. Luckily they had a room for us then so we packed up the tent and moved our gear. We decided not to go to sleep as that would be the end of the day so we went down to the beach until eleven. At eleven Sunday brunch started - all you could eat! Breakfast was good, but the best part was just corn flakes and milk! Entry: I went by Norman's to make sure my chairs were done. They were and they look good! Especially the rhino one I'd had carved. I made arrangements to come by in the afternoon to pay and help him package them for shipping. We walked in to town and picked up the frames I'd ordered - they also got done and look great. In fact the frames looked so good that I ended up buying two and ordering two more. that means between Amy and I we bought a total of eleven frames from the same guy (Griffin). We went by the super market to pick up a couple bottles each of Nali sauce - our favorite peri peri (hot) sauce. I'd bought two bottles last time I was in Malawi, but they got sent in the one box that was lost so I wanted to try again. Entry: Headed back to Mayoka and spent the afternoon doing the usual reading, sunning, and swimming. Just before sunset I walked up to help Norman pack up my chairs. The wrapping procedure ended up taking several boxes worth of cardboard, twenty yards of string, and over an hour of time. Besides the two large chairs I also managed to squeeze in a couple old guide books and some miscellaneous stuff so my pack will be a bit lighter. My only concern now is the weight - there's a twenty kilogram limit at the post office and I'm pretty sure the package is going to be close.

August
21

Nkhata Bay, Malawi
Found In: Entry: The alarm went off at seven but after last night's lack of sleep I suggested that we sleep in some more and Amy readily agreed. Got up a couple hours later and finished packing. We checked out, left our packs, and started for the post office lugging my packed chairs. The farther we went the heavier the chairs got and I was really worried about the twenty kilogram (44 pound) limit on parcels - I didn't want to have to repack in the post office! When we got into town we stopped to pick up the two frames I'd ordered and I looked at some more chairs. Not surprisingly I ended up buying another chair as a gift. I got a good price, and part of the bargain was he had to pack it and carry it to the post office. Entry: The three of us set off again, stopping a couple places to pick up packing supplies. I figured this was good insurance as now if my first package was too heavy I'd be able to pay Chico (the new guy I bought the chair from) to repack it. At the post Chico sat outside and started packing the new chair while I went in and weighed my first package. It was 19.6 kilograms (43 lbs.) - only 400 grams (less than a pound) under the max! As expected the cost of shipping was more than the cost of items being shipped. The largest stamp available in Malawi is worth just over ten cents - so Amy and I spent over an hour pasting stamps on every square inch of my package. Luckily the post office had supplied us with sponges and water! Meanwhile Chico finished up the packing and left. When we finished with the stamps I realized that Chico had left with my Swiss Army knife. The post office had closed for lunch, so while I sat with the packages Amy went to retrieve my knife. When the post office reopened I took the second package in to be weighed - only ten kilos (22 pounds). Amy returned with my knife as I was starting. Less weight meant less stamps, and with pretty much the same package size it was a much easier job, so it only took us a half hour. At the end I'd been at the post office for over two hours and between the two of us we'd pasted 922 stamps (919 six Kwacha, two one Kwacha, and one two Kwacha). Entry: It was definitely lunch time. We went to Jonathan's (our local restaurant) and had a huge meal. While we were eating we decided not to go to Mzuzu today. That will put us a day behind schedule, but we're hoping to find a bus that will takes all the way from Mzuzu to Mbeya, or even Iringa. If we can't find a bus like that we can always skip Iringa and go straight from Mbeya back to Dar es Salaam. Spent the rest of the afternoon trying to find out specifics about such a bus but failed - the Malawian phone system is tragic. Still feeling a little disappointed with the diving situation on the islands we decided to completely blow our schedule and arranged for a dive tomorrow morning. We'll take our bags to the dive shop and leave straight from there. Wandered back through the market for a final time but didn't buy anything. Entry: Back at Mayoka we checked back in. Unfortunately it was a little too late for a swim so we took well needed showers and spent the rest of the night hanging out.

August
22

Mzuzu, Malawi
From Nkhata Bay Found In: Route: Minibus: Nkhata Bay - Mzuzu; Bus: Mzuzu - Mbeya Entry: At least this morning it was easy packing! We checked out of Mayoka (again!) and walked in to town. We went for a good leisurely dive - the visibility was poor (about 5 meters / 16 feet) but the whole dive was relaxing and pleasant. After the dive on our way out someone pointed out that the trip to Mzuzu involves some altitude - not a good thing immediately after diving, so we decide to wait and have lunch - predictable at Jonathan's again. After lunch we found instant transport and were in Mzuzu before five. We checked on a bus, and got sent around to several places, before finding out that there is one coming tonight! We checked in our luggage and went for a walk into town. Went to the market and tried to go to the bank, but it was long closed. Back at the bus station we finally found the guy to buy a ticket from and even got a much better deal because we had to pay in Tanzanian Shillings. We had a hellish wait for the bus, as everything was closed, and it was a pretty nasty bus station.

August
23

Mbeya, Tanzania
From Mzuzu, Malawi Found In: Entry: Dante-esque trip through purgatory. Boarded the bus from hell at midnight. We'd bought tickets on the express luxury international coach - it sounded good, but we should have known better when there were no seat numbers on the ticket. When the bus pulled up it looked full so I thought there must be a lot of people getting off in Mzuzu. I was wrong. They just packed us in standing in the isle. There were so many people on the bus that it was impossible to even move my feet more than a couple inches - sitting down was out of the question. Which was just as well as the driver was a maniac. There were definitely times where I would have fallen down if it hadn't been for the crush of bodies around me. We drove for three hours then stopped at a gas station for an hour - apparently we made to good of time and there's no reason to get to the border to long before it opens. From the gas station the driver drove slowly for another hour to the border. At the border we sat around and watched the sun rise for an hour until it opened. On the Tanzanian side we got a very pleasant surprise. We were expecting to have to buy another $50 visa, and we were hoping that maybe we could get a half price transit visa. What happened was we got a free week transit visa! We were one of the first people through immigration - good thing, as two Canadian guys at the end had to pay $50 for a two day transit visa (I think they might have annoyed the officials...) Entry: On the Tanzanian side the ride was even worse than the Malawian side. It was light so we could see, there were slightly fewer people (though I still had to stand up), and the roads were better, but I could also see my watch so time seemed to stop. Plus by this time I was really in bad shape - eyes gritty, unable to concentrate, and feeling weak. The ride to Mbeya was less than two hours, yet for me it was the longest part of the trip. The bus was headed for Dar es Salaam but we'd just bought tickets to Mbeya. It turned out that the bus didn't really even go to Mbeya - it went near Mbeya. Furthermore no one even bothered to tell us that we were there. I was watching for the Mbeya bus station and we just never got there. Another tourist on the bus noticed that we were going by signs pointing to Mbeya behind us. By the time we got off the bus we were twenty kilometers away! Amy and I were just lucky that someone was still capable of noticing details like that! On the side of the road we waited for a daladala which got us back to the right area. From there a second daladala got us to the central bus station. Entry: At the bus station we bought tickets for tomorrow's Scandinavia (the luxury line - one passenger per seat!) to Dar. We then negotiated a taxi to take us to get money changed and then to the hotel. The first bank we went to didn't do foreign exchange. The second one did, but at a bad rate. I noticed that the exchange rate was slightly better for travelers checks, and as I was running low on US dollars I decided to use go with a check. They wouldn't take it because I didn't have the receipts with me (you know they ones that say "Keep this form... separate from your Cheques"). I ended up changing a little cash (wait in a line, fill out a form, wait for presidents approval, wait in line again, show passport and sign forms, wait in a different line with the paperwork, show passport again, sign forms again, and finally count the money) - I'd forgotten how bad the bureaucracy is in Tanzania. Entry: We'd been dreaming of our hotel (actually a missionary center) - we stayed there on our way south and were looking forward to the cozy room with feather beds, hot water, and antique furniture. What we got was two beds in a dorm and cold water. Apparently they are quite a bit busier than last time. We went in to the restaurant had a mediocre pizza that tasted incredible - we hadn't eaten since lunch yesterday. I'd been planning on trying to stay up as long as possible so that I'd be able to sleep through the night, but the next thing I knew I was waking up five hours later. I got up and tried to take a shower only to find out that now we have no water. We went back to the restaurant and had a light dinner, then headed back to the room and got ready to go to bed again. Entry: Today was one of the hardest travel days I've ever had. The only trip I can think of that even competes was the forty hour shared taxi ride going from Senegal into Guinea nearly two years ago. From getting on the bus in Mzuzu to checking in to our hotel room was only twelve hours. But it was twelve hours standing in a hot airless box driven (shaken? rattled?) by a madman - it wasn't that long - but it was so vividly and surreally uncomfortable and unanticipated.

August
24

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
From Mbeya Found In: Lodging: Safari Inn Entry: Up early to catch our taxi only to find that the taxi didn't show - again. Started walking and about ten minutes in the taxi driver showed up - lucky for us, I was not looking forward o the five kilometer hike with our packs. Loading our packs on the bus the courier walked us to the other side of the bus and demanded money for the bags. Luckily we've already used the bus line a number of times and knew that luggage was included so we refused, but it just totally illustrated the fact that we were no longer in the friendlier Malawi. Entry: The bus ride was long, but pleasantly boring after yesterday's hellish ride. I spent most of the ride working on my handheld computer. Until about an hour out of Dar it just stopped working! In Dar we quickly caught a ride to the hotel (luckily they had room). First thing I did when I got into our room was plug in my computer to recharge, but nothing happened. Tried everything, but it looks like my H/PC is dead. Bummer, that means that journal entries are going to be slow and concise until I can get it fixed (who knows when). I went down to the office and called around and found a dive shop that could take us diving tomorrow. We had a wonderful HOT shower then walked next door to a restaurant that had been recommended by Claire and Ian (met in Mbeya and Nkhata Bay). Dinner was pretty average but we were on our last Tanzanian Shillings so we were happy to be able to afford it. Entry: Spent our last 2,000 Shillings on internet access - first time in almost three weeks! I had the rather daunting task of sorting through 180 messages - luckily most of them were junk and could be trashed. Unfortunately minutes before I ran out of time I read an email from my parents with very bad news. My grandma peacefully passed away yesterday. I think it's probably a good thing and I'm glad that it was quick and painless but it struck me very hard. I'm very thankful that Amy was there with me, otherwise I don't know how I would have handled. Even so it made me feel so far away... I couldn't even call my parents as we had less than ten cents in local currency and there is no where open to change money. Talk about powerless.

August
25

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
Found In: Lodging: Safari Inn Entry: I didn't sleep much last night - I could keep the memories of my grandma out of my head. I was very lucky to have her a ten minute walk away from my home growing up. She was such a happy, vital person. It has been very hard for me to reconcile my memories of her with her appearance the last few times I've visited, but now it's so much harder to accept that she is completely gone. I will always be thankful for the memories. Entry: Got up early to change some money and call home. It was good to talk to my parents and my mom seems to be dealing well, but it was also frustrating because the phone rates are so expensive here that I only had enough money to talk for ten minutes. I'm looking forward to being back in Cairo where I can talk longer. Due to lack of sleep and the fact that I wasn't feeling very orientated we decided not to go diving. Entry: Spent the day walking around Dar. I went on a quest for the FedEx office to send my H/PC home for repairs. I never found the FedEx office, but did stumble on to a DHL office so it got sent home. Hopefully the turn around time will be very quick and I can have something get to me in Cairo early next week. Went through one of Dar's markets (the only one in the central area) and did some shopping. I spent some more time sorting through and started replying to some of the emails that had piled up while we were in Malawi. Entry: We decided that we needed a treat for dinner so headed out of the center to Addis in Dar - and Ethiopian restaurant that had been highly recommended. Amy had never had Ethiopian and I've never had it outside of Ethiopia so we were both very curious. The meal was fantastic - one of the best I've ever had. Entry: Back at the hotel I could hardly keep my eyes open and I was able to remember my grandma in my earliest memories without too much pain as I fell asleep.

August
26

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
Found In:

Weather: Rain Entry: Ran around doing everything we wanted to do - mostly exploring the market areas to buy some spices and wooden spoons. Spent a lot of time avoiding the rain on the internet. Got to the airport and caught our flight back to Cairo without any undue drama.

August
28

Cairo, Egypt
Found In: Photo: Amy in front of the pyramids, Giza, Cairo, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: Amy in front of the pyramids, Giza, Cairo, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: Me in front of the pyramids, Giza, Cairo, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Entry: We took advantage of the luxury room and had a wonderful sleep in! I spent the morning taking care of details - trying to contact the non-existent Cairo Iranian embassy, aranging for the Hilton to accept a package (hopefully my repaired or replacement H/PC), checked email, got a GSM SIM card (a phone number for my phone - want to call me? +20 122 612 810 should work), and changed money (I needed to replace my dollar supply). Amy and I had the huge buffet lunch at the Hilton. It was great because both of us had been craving salad and there were tons of them and hopefully safe... Entry: In the evening we hired a taxi to take us out to the Great Pyramids at Giza. The plan had been to get out there after the tour busses had left, but before they closed at seven thirty. Unfortunately the Lonely Planet guide book is wrong, they don't close at 7:30 they close at 5:00! So we couldn't go in. We decided to hike into the desert on the south side of the complex and watch the sunset. We had to do battle with the many touts who wanted us to hire their camels, horses, or donkeys, but we finally made it. Hiked along the outskirt of some digs, then over some rocks looking down at the pyramids and the sphinx. Along the south side we decided to see how close we could get to the complex as there is no wall. We pretty quickly got waved over by a guard (actually a tourist police officer) and he wouldn't let us go back the way we'd come as he claimed that was closed as well. He offered to let us climb on top of the ruins he was guarding to let us watch the sunset - for a "tip". We were warned to stay out of sight and sit quietly as he didn't want to get in trouble. The spot was actually really nice, we had a view of one of the great pyramids, the sunset, and a maze of tombs in front, and we were nestled among the giant building blocks on the roof. Entry: The sunset was nice, but pretty simple - no firey colors. Afterwards we waited but no one came to get us so we decided to hike down ourselves. As we got to the edge we realized that there were other police down there talking to our's so we snuck back. Eventually he came and got us, but then we had to keep ducking behind rocks to hide from the other guards. It was all very exciting in an Raiders of the Lost Arc kind of way. When we got to the bottom we got caught by three other guards and there was lots of discussion and we were (of course) asked for money - I claimed to only have a few pounds left and turned over about $1 worth. I was very nervous because I still had the money I'd changed that morning (about $800 worth) in my pocket. We were then escorted along the side of the site and through a graveyard towards where we'd come into the desert. At the enterance to the graveyard one of the police told us to go back the way we'd come from so we headed off. Immeadiately one of the other guards started yelling at us to stop. Lots of heated discussion among them then we were told to go, then yelled at to stop again. This was repeated about twenty times each time us making it a few yards closer to the street. It was clear that one of the guards wanted to take us to the captain, while the other three wanted to keep the little money we'd given them. After about an hour of this we made it back to the street and hussled away while they were arguing among themselves. Our taxi driver was waiting for us and was a little upset at us being so late but immediately understood when we explained that we'd had trouble with the police. Nothing like a little adventure! Entry: We were still full from our huge lunch and it was quite late by the time we got back to the hotel so we skipped dinner and decided to watch TV in the room. By chance the discovery channel was showing Lonely Planet's East Africa Tanzania episode so we stayed up late watching all about where we'd just been a couple days ago!

August
30

Cairo, Egypt
Found In: Entry: I didn't sleep last night (I've gotten used to having Amy around) so I was a total wreck this morning. I stayed in bed late trying to sleep but it was no use. I ended up spending almost the entire day on a computer. I've filled up my dive log book and had decided to design my own - so it's just what I want. It took forever, but at the end I got it close to perfect. Entry: While on the computer I got email from Stacy letting me know that she is flying in tonight. (We're going to spend the next month doing the dive master class somewhere on the Sinai) So I went back to the hotel and arranged a taxi for tonight. Entry: After dinner, back at the hotel, I started stitching the pages I'd printed together to make my new dive log. Just after midnight I jumped in a taxi to head for the airport. The taxi driver was the same guy who took me to go pick up Amy. Ironically the same thing that happened when I went to pick up Amy happened again - the plane was three hours late! Same taxi driver to AP - and again the plane was nearly three hours late. After a lot of waiting, just as I was really starting to worry, Stacy walked through the arrivals door. By the time we made it back to the hotel it was four. Then we stayed up late talking. After last night's lack of sleep I better be able to sleep tonight (or what little is left of it!) About half an hour after we got back to the hotel my phone rang - which was very strange as the only people I've given the number to are Stacy (who was sitting across the room from me) and Amy (who wouldn't call at this hour!) It was my friend Jason. It was very surreal. He'd gotten my number out of my journal - I'd forgotten that I'd put it in there. Jason and I rowed together in university and we only talk about once a year so it was a nice surprise.

August
31

Cairo, Egypt
Found In: Entry: Besides staying up early talking I just couldn't sleep last night. It was getting late by the time I dragged myself out of bed. I took Stacy to the Kushari place Amy and I had discovered then spent the day running errands. Went to the Hilton to use the ATM. Checked my email to see if there was any news about my H/PC - there was, my old P/PC ("Pocket PC") should be at the Cairo FedEx office tomorrow. Stacy and I went for a short walk on the Nile and then went on an unsuccessful quest for the KLM office so Stacy could confirm her flight out. After our failure we decided we deserved beers. Strangely enough we went to an Egyptian restaurant for the beers, but ended up going to Pizza Hut for dinner (very disappointing). The plan had been to get to bed early, but we ended up staying up talking again.

September, 2000

September
1

Cairo, Egypt
Found In: Entry: I'm still not sleeping well so I laid in bed as long as possible. We stopped at an internet cafe to check email. While on the net 1 checked on the status of the package my parents sent and found out that it had already been delivered to the FedEx office! I can go pick it up - if I can find the office. Entry: Stacy and I walked to tourists office near Opera Midan. The guy working there was awesome - very enthusiastic. We got a map and he marked the locations of Iran's Embassy (there is one in Cairo!), the United Arab Emirates' Embassy, the KLM and Emirates Air offices, the FedEx office, and the bus station, plus wrote the various addresses in English and Arabic. He also gave us some suggestions and told us how to get to Islamic Cairo. Entry: From the tourist office we walked to Khan el Kalili. The bazaar was packed with both tourists and locals, but the walk over was something else. No tourists and very crowded. We wandered around until four then headed for the FedEx office. We were going to take a taxi but after a couple rip off prices we decided to walk. Looking at the traffic we decided it would probably be faster anyway. We figured that the office would close at five so we had an hour to walk back and find the office. It took us a lot longer than we thought it would, then we had to search to find the office. One and a half hours later we found it and it was still open! But, they didn't have the package. It's in Cairo, but the couriers don't work on Fridays so there's no way to get it from the warehouse. On the bright side they're open tomorrow so I can pick it up then. Entry: By this time we'd been walking all day and hadn't had anything to eat. We were hot, tired, hungry, and a little disappointed (at least I was) so we decided to splurge on the all you can eat buffet at the Hilton.

September
2

Cairo, Egypt
Found In: Entry: Finally made it to the Iranian embassy! They were very friendly and helpful, but didn't seem very confident about me actually getting a visa. I filled out the forms and now I just have to wait two or three weeks. I also tried to find the United Arab Emirates embassy but couldn't figure out the notes on my map and the taxi drivers kept trying to take me somewhere else - I'd forgotten that the tourist office guy had told me that there were two embassies and that he'd marked the old embassy location, but written the new address. Entry: I gave up on the U.A.E. embassy and headed to the FedEx office to pick up my pocket PC (my parents forwarded it to replace my broken H/PC until it's been repaired or replaced). I was pretty excited about getting it because I'm way behind on my journal. Then the package was there but my parents hadn't send the power supply or a connecting cable! I was very disappointed. Entry: I had a bite to eat and went back to the hotel. In my luggage l found the power supply - I'd never sent it home (hence my parents couldn't send it to me). I plugged it in to start recharging and found out the backup battery was dead - so the device is totally clear. I'd been hopping that there would still be software installed on it, and that my address book would at least be there. Plus since I don't have a cable so I can't even copy any software over. In the room I sat in front of the fan and worked on my journal until Stacy returned from the pyramids (at least I can get caught up and stay current even it I can't copy it over to the internet until I get a cable or my old H/PC back). We hung out for awhile and then tried to go use the internet but the net was down. We went on a successful quest for plastic playing cards (the paper ones Amy and I bought in Malawi are falling apart) and then went out for a an Egyptian food dinner. We bought a couple beers and then stayed up watching CNN and playing cards in the hotel lounge. It ended up getting late, and by the time I finished packing for an early departure it was 1:30.

September
3

Dahab, Egypt
From Cairo Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: Up early to catch the 7:30 bus to Sharm el-Sheikh and Dahab. The unexciting ride got us to Dahab just after five. We checked in to the Auski Camp (same place Amy and I stayed) but their rates have gone up and I think we can find better value elsewhere so we'll probably only stay a night or two. Entry: Walked into the village and checked out a couple dive shops. So far we liked Poseidon the best (the place Amy got certified and that I dove with two months ago). Tomorrow morning we'll check with one more club then make up our minds - if all goes well, we should be in the water tomorrow! Entry: We had an early dinner at the Shark's Club (still the best milk shakes!) then had a couple beers at Nesima's happy hour.

September
4

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: We got up early to go talk with the Nesima's dive center. They were the last club we wanted to talk to before we made up our minds about where we were going to do our dive master training. We liked them as much as Poseidon and the facilities and equipment is nicer, while the price actually a little cheaper! So we agreed to go on an afternoon dive with them and assuming that went well to sign up for their DM program. Entry: Once again last night I didn't sleep well. A big problem was the heat that plus the price sent us looking for a new home. We ended up a couple camps down where for an extra dollar a day each we got a much nicer (and cleaner) room with our own bathroom. Entry: I hit an internet cafe to check and answer email, but ended up spending the hour looking at photos that Steve just posted for me (21 rolls with 500+ photos from 17 countries!) Entry: Then it was time to get wet! Met at the dive school, got our equipment together, and headed out with one of Nesima's dive masters (Tim) and a couple paying customers. We went to the Islands - the first site Amy and I dove together, last July. The dive isn't too exciting, it's just very, very pretty. One surprise was the current, it was very strong. At first I thought there was something wrong with my fins as I was kicking hard and barely moving! The problem was that even swimming with the current was difficult, otherwise you moved to fast to see anything! After the dive we spent the afternoon at the center filling out paperwork and collecting the books we're supposed to read. Entry: I started the reading, then met up with Stacy to get dinner at Sharks Club. After dinner went back to the internet cafe and actually dealt with some of my email.

September
5

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: The first dive was at The Caves. That was my new favorite dive. It had some of everything plus it was fun. The entry was a bit difficult as it was just off the reef table. Right at the entry there were two caves (really one large cave divided in two by a mound of sand in the middle). We followed the contour south for a few minutes then descended along a sandy slope to 32 meters (104 feet). Accending to 22 meters (72 feet) we explored some little coral gardens and a wall covered in sponges. Finished off the dive exploring the caves at five meters (16 feet) Entry: Back at the dive center Stacy and I decided to go get some lunch. I thought I ordered a toasted sandwich but ended up getting a huge pastry type thing - so much for my light lunch! We picked up water (it's amazing how much we drink here) the headed back to the dive center for another dive. Entry: The second dive was also very nice. It was called The Huts. There were hundreds of red toothed trigger fish that looked as it they were dancing in the water. Entry: After cleaning up from the second dive we sat around in the sun working on the dive logs. In the evening I got my hair cut, checked email and got a call from Amy. It was great to hear from her. She (and her cat) made it back to the US with only some minor problems. The call put me in a great mood and I went to meet Stacy for some beers. Actually tried a new place for dinner - Aladdin's. It was good, but not as good as the Sharks Club.

September
6

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: The first dive was at The Canyon - one of my favorite sites (this was my third time diving it). The dive is (obviously) in an underwater canyon. The other times I've done this dive we've entered the canyon at 30 meters (100 feet) then followed it up to the "fish bowl" at about 18 meters (60 feet). The fish bowl is a small chamber made by the coral closing off the top of the canyon. It's spectacular due to the intense blue light that enters from an arch on the side, and the nearly transparent glass fish that are always there. This time we entered the canyon at the fish bowl and then continued down the canyon. This meant the canyon walls were highlighted by this incredible deep water blue. We followed the canyon down to 35 meters (114 feet) then swam up through cracks in the roof. We then re-entered the canyon and swam back up into the fish bowl. There were an incredible number of glass fish there. With the blue light from the side it really was like floating in the middle of living chandelier. After exiting the canyon I had to end the dive early to take one of the other divers back to shore since he was out of air. The joys of diving as a dive master in training. Entry: Instead of going back to the dive club after the first dive those of us doing a second dive (luckily not the heavy breather) continued north to the blue hole. We spent our surface interval having lunch and hanging out watching all the snorkelers in and around the lagoon. Entry: The second dive was from the Bells to the Blue Hole. This used to be my favorite dive, but when I dove it with Amy I was a little disappointed. Today it was great again. Maybe it was the expectations last time. The visibility was awesome (30+ m. / 100+ ft.) and I was even able to see the actual hole that the blue hole is named after - a tunnel leading from the lagoon to the open water at about 60 meters (200 feet). Entry: Back at the club I hung out and did some reading for my dive master class. Spent the rest of the afternoon working on my journal and doing email. Met up with Stacy (she was working on her Rescue Diver course today so she didn't get to dive with us) and walked down the beach away from town looking for dinner. Had a nice lighter meal (I need to remember the place for lunches) on the water then had a beer at Nesima's bar. Back at our room we made a very unfortunate discovery - our hotel was hosting a late night party. There was almost no one there, but that didn't stop them from blasting bad techno dance music. Unable to sleep I went out and called home and talked to my parents, then ended up buying some batteries for my walkman in an unsuccessful attempt to block out the noise...

September
7

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: The customers for the first dive didn't show so I ended up spending the morning reading and talking. When Stacy had her lunch break from her first aid class I went with her to get something to eat. We went to the same place as last night, but it was disappointing - not nearly as good. Entry: The afternoon dive was at Umm Sid. It was a very pretty dive, but not to exciting. There were two girls on the dive who caused the pace to be very slow. After the dive Stacy and I had a beer by the pool - where most of the dive staff seem to hang out after work. I spent an hour at the internet cafe - mostly chatting with Amy (she's slowly adjusting to being back home). I was craving one of their chocolate shakes so I went to Shark's for dinner.

September
8

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: The morning dive was at the Eel Garden. There were tons (thousands!) of garden eels, and some fantastic coral gardens. But the real treat was a totally unexpected two and a half meter Guitar Shark! He wasn't even afraid of us, in fact he kept on coming over to check us out. He ended up hanging out with us for ten minutes. Entry: During the lunch break I took the first of the many tests I'm going to have to take during my Divemaster class. Luckily it was an easy one! After a quick lunch I found out that I had aced the exam! Entry: The second dive was at the Islands. As last time, it was a very nice dive. Tons of coral and lots of fish, but nothing really exciting. About the only noteworthy event was getting to take back one of the divers who ran low on air. Not exciting, but tending towards divemaster like activities. Entry: Back at Nesima I tried to read up on the next section I'm to be tested on, but that plan quickly vanished when Tim (one of the DMs) asked if I wanted to grab a beer at the pool bar. Sat with a big group of dive staff and had a beer. I then tried to call a friend in the U.S. but only got the answering machine so I went back and had a few more beers. Had dinner with Stacy then headed to bed exhausted.

September
9

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: In the morning I took off with Tim to do two dives - the first at the Canyon then the second at the Blue Hole. The first dive was pretty good, but I had to take a diver in ten minutes early so I missed out on some of it. We had lunch at the Blue Hole then did the Bells to Blue Hole dive. The second dive went OK, but one of the divers had some major buoyancy problems - not good on a nearly bottomless wall dive. The ride back was to Nesima was a nightmare - the driver seemed determined to kill us all. When we finally yelled at hime he slowed down and wouldn't drive over ten miles an hour - OK by us! Entry: Back at Nesima I was planning on doing some of my Dive Master reading but instead volunteered to go out with Laurie's Open Water class. I was supposed to keep track of the spare weight belt, and managed to leave it behind in a few feet of water. I went back for it and it was right where I left it. No real problem, but pretty embarassing. Entry: Did the standard beers with the usual group at the pool bar and had dinner with Cesil and Stacy at Aladdin's. After dinner we decided to have a few more beers at Tota but the table we chose was ended up being covered in blood - which sort of put a damper on the evening.

September
10

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: The morning dive was at Umm Sid again. The visibility wasn't as good as it has been, and the site was crowded. Still it was a nice dive. The highlight for me was getting to guide two of the divers back when they ran low on air. The current was much worse than I expected and at one point I thought I was lost, but at the end I got the divers right where I was supposed to. Entry: During the lunch break I tried to read but only managed a few pages - a busy dive club is not the place to try and concentrate! Stacy and I ended up wandering inland a bit and trying falafels at a local place for lunch. Entry: The afternoon dive was supposed to be off the boat, but it ended up getting cancelled when the car didn't show up. We ended up going to Three Pools instead. The dive followed a very convoluted route and I was totally disoriented. Afterwards Mark (the Dive Master) explained to me how he found his way, and I'm fairly confident that now I could do it. Basically the site is bounded on two sides by the reef table and deep water. The area in between is a maze of coral, but if you orient off the sun you can always find the wall and follow it back to the exit. Besides the incredible coral we also saw Lion Fish, Scorpion Fish, a beautiful Blue Triggerfish, an Octopus, a Giant Pufferfish, and some Barracuda. Entry: Back at Nesima I talked, filled out my dive logs, and did a little reading. I was supposed to chat with Amy tonight but technical difficulties prevented me from getting online, and then it turned out that she had canceled anyway. I had dinner at the Sharks Club then went for a beer and finished a chapter in the Dive Master manual.

September
11

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: Went out to Napoleon Reef on the boat. Somehow one of the divers hit 70 bar in about fifteen minutes. Even scarier it only took about five minutes to get back to the boat - at which point he was down to 20 bar! I had a fairly dissappointing lunch at Tota with Stacy then we spent the rest of the afternoon in lectures with Nick. We had dinner at Aladdin and then I went for a night dive at the Light House Reef. As usual I was less than thrilled with the night dive. Finnished off the night at Nesima for a few beers.

September
12

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Photo: The gang @ Aladdin's, Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Entry: The first dive was at Eel Garden. It was one of those occasions where everything seemed to go wrong. It took forever for our group to kit up - we must have been on the beach for more than an hour. Then one of the women was improperly weighted and I had to tow her off the coral. Then at the bottom the same woman's mask strap broke. Tim, the dive master, swapped masks with her, but then she panicked while trying to get the water out of the mask. I ended up guiding the rest of the group back. Falafels for lunch. Tried to call airline. Conned into 2nd dive (The Islands). INet. Phone. Dinner iwth divers & friends. Beer @ Nesima. Bed.

September
13

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Entry: Big breakfast buffet at Nesima. Lectures / test - %100.0 Look for new hotel at lunch. Water treading test. Read. More lecture. Internet mostly looking for dive tables. Dinner at Shark's Club. Reading / organizing.

September
14

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: In the morning we did out swim tests in the hotel pool (a 400m swim, and an 800m snorkel). On our lunch break we moved hotels. We like Mohammed Ali's, but the lack of A/C is preventing us from getting enough sleep - something that's just not worth the $3 savings. The hotel we moved into (Yasmina) is totally deluxe - very nice room with a fridge, TV, phone, hot water, a balcony, and air-conditioning! In addition we get breakfast and there is a nice swimming pool. All for less than $3 more a day! Entry: In the afternoon we listened to lectures, then spent the afternoon in the water with Jack's open water class - the first two confined water sessions. Back at Nesima we took a couple more of our exams - with beer. Afterwards I went to chat with Amy - only to find out I was confused and she had been there yesterday! So I called, which ended up being big money, but well worth it. After talking to Amy I went back to Nesima and joined the usual suspects for beers at the pool bar. The moonrise was absolutely spectacular. I had dinner with Mark and Stacy at Aladdin's - good as usual. Back at the hotel it was with some difficulty that we figured out the remote for the A/C - but then it was off to sleep in cool bliss...

September
15

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: I got woken up at 4:30 when the air-conditioning unit, which is above my bed, turned in to a waterfall. I tried to ignore it but it just kept getting worse. I pushed the bed as far out of the way as possible, and tried to go back to sleep. Ended up tired, then a little late to class due to breakfast (which is included so we had to try it). Both dives today were with the open water class - continuing with the confined sessions so nothing exciting. Between the dives I went with Stacy to the the Hilton over in Dahab City to get money out but the bank was closed. It's Friday and we were told the back was closed for 10 minutes so they could pray, but after waiting 45 minutes it was still closed. After the second dive we had more lectures then it was time for a very much deserved beers by the pool. There was a very nice orange moon-rise. After dinner, went back to the room to find the air-conditioning fixed (hopefully).

September
16

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: Woke up from my alarm - not from the air-conditioning raining on me - a welcomed improvement. Stacy and I did a combination skill demonstration practice / fun dive. We walked down to Club Red and practiced our demonstrations on the sandy bottom in about six meters of water, then did a fun dive back to Nesima. There was nothing fantastic about the dive, but it was nice to finish off with a recreational dive. We spent the morning practicing with the tables and the wheel. I was reminded that I hate the wheel. Entry: At lunch we went back to the Hilton and this time I was successful in getting money out. Also had a very expensive and poor lunch at a pub at the Hilton. Entry: In the afternoon I went with Jack's open water class' first open water dive. It was very stressful as I spent the entire dive darting around grabbing students - they had no buoyancy control and my ears were definitely feeling the many accents. Spent the afternoon one homework and then beers by the pool. Then I successfully chatted with Amy on the internet. I had dinner with Jo and Cess, Stacy, and Stephen at the Indian restaurant. I've seen the restaurant there since I first came to Dahab two years ago, and I've always been tempted, but I've never seen anyone eating there. So I was a little scared, but it was great.

September
17

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: We were supposed to be at Nesima at 8:30 so we had to rush through breakfast again. We had one of the dive master exams then set out for a repeat of yesterday morning's dive. The skills demonstrations went a little smoother so we ended up with more air for the fun part. There had been a plastic cup that had been bothering me the entire time so I swam over to pick it up, and then picked up a bottle then another. Five minutes passed and my bag was full of litter. I felt good about cleaning up some of the crap, but we ended up low on air so we had to rush again. Still saw some great lion fish, a couple different kinds of pufferfish and trigger fish, and a crocodile fish. Getting out was more difficult than yesterday - the tide was lower, so there wasn't as much water over the reef. Plus with bigger surf, we both got tumbled some before we managed to stand up. Entry: After a huge lunch I headed back to prepare for the class I'm assisting with (I get to do all the grunt work involved with loading the car). The dive was the class' second open water dive and was at Golden Blocks. It was a much better dive than yesterday, though it was still stressful and not at all relaxing. Entry: Back at Nesima I had to hear about the giant Morray Stacy and Mick saw on their fun dive. Spent a little over an hour doing the reading for tomorrow then headed to the pool bar. After a couple beers I couldn't be bothered getting dinner so I grabbed some yogurt and a chocolate bar and headed back to the room.

September
18

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: I went with the open water class to the Coral Gardens next to the Canyon. We had to do the CESA (Controlled Emergency Swimming Accent) with the students. Jack did one and I did the other two -- each a couple times. By the end of the dive my ears were feeling very abused. Had take away falafel for lunch, then hung out studying at Nesima. In the afternoon I went with the open water class on the boat to Napoleon Reef. During the dive I had major ear problems - well not major, but I was uncomfortable and it took a lot of time to equalize. It was kind of fun though since I got to lead the dive. Michael tagged along with the group (Elizabeth, his girlfriend, is one of the students) and at the end of the dive we had enough air left to let Jack take up the students and we went on a 20 minute fun dive. The fun dive was mostly fun because I didn't have to worry about anyone and we could move at a reasonable speed (actually we raced along - it just felt good to cover some ground). Back at Nesima I was just feeling very run down. I tried to have a beer but it just didn't appeal. Ended up having dinner and going to bed feeling very low.

September
19

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: Woke up in the middle of the night with my ear throbbing and still generally feeling like shit. I managed to get back to sleep and when I woke up I felt a little better but my ear was still aching. Luckily I'd arranged to spend the day out of the water. So instead of diving I got to spend the day in the class room - but we did finish off the lectures from the Dive Master book. Entry: Mick (our instructor) was gone for the afternoon so Stacy and I had a long lunch at Aladdin's and then went book shopping. We spent the rest of the afternoon studying for and then taking the diving physics test - I missed several due to not checking my work, but I still passed. Entry: We had several beers around the pool barm - Cess and Jo were leaving so everyone was there to say goodbye. After a lighter crape dinner I called home. After talking to Amy I really started to feel much better. Then had a final beer at Nesima's roof top bar before heading to bed.

September
20

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: I got to sleep in a little again today and woke up feeling quite a bit better. At the dive center Stacy and I spent the morning studying for the physiology exam and then taking it. After a huge lunch at the pizzeria we were back in the classroom. We spent the afternoon studying for, and taking, the equipment exam. Today was the second day in a row out of the water, but it was good to give my ears a rest, and now we're completely done with the bookwork and exams. Entry: After finishing the equipment exam I grabbed a beer and read my James Bond novel. I spent an hour on the Internet then went with Stacy to a light dinner at the Sharks Club (French fries and thick shakes).

September
21

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: In the morning I met up with Jack's Advanced Open Water class. We went to The Lighthouse (north side of the strip) to do the navigation part of the class. After taking care of the required exercises we still had enough air left for us to look around. The highlights were a large octopus, a couple crocodile fish, and a white Morray. After the dive Jack had an Intro dive so I assisted. It was also at the Lighthouse, and was a bit of a nightmare - an older overweight woman who could barely swim. Jack and I took turns "driving" her around ten feet under the surface for half an hour. Entry: I tried to have falafels for lunch but they were sold out so I got very daring and had kushari from a bicycle vendor. Not bad, but not great either. I went on two more dives in the afternoon. Both were off the boat with Jack's class. The first one was at Napoleon reef and marked my debut at guiding dives. There was a giant Napoleon fish that was very curious - so much so that I was starting to worry about what they ate (this was a big fish). But the most exciting part of the dive for me was getting us back to the boat. I was very worried about getting the group lost! Entry: The second boat dive was at Coral Islands, a new offshore reef only discovered a week ago. No one on the boat had dove it before so it was pretty exciting. It's a very pretty site - tons of undamaged coral arranged in rolling underwater hills. Also lots of smaller fish, but nothing really exciting. It really reminded me of the Islands, another Dahab dive site. Entry: Spent the evening at an internet cafe and then had a splurge dinner at the Chinese restaurant with Stacy (lots of food risks today). I did four dives today - I could feel my ear, but it equalized so I guess I'm alright. Went to bed absolutely exhausted.

September
22

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: I didn't need to be at the dive center until nine so I got to eat breakfast. At Nesima I was supposed to be going with the advanced course but the student (Elizabeth - she was in the open water class I assisted) was an hour late so I ended up sitting around reading. Entry: By the time we finally got to The Canyon it was packed there must have been more than a hundred divers in the water. Luckily most of them were way ahead of us so we didn't see that many people. I led the group - besides me, Elizabeth, Michael (her boyfriend and a Nesima DM), and Jack. I love this dive, so it was a cool one to lead. It's a very dramatic canyon dive so it was also great to be in front were I could experience the views by myself. The Fishbowl was especially great! Entry: After the canyon we headed to the Blue Hole. We spent the surface interval having lunch and then I gave the briefing. I led the dive from the Bells along the wall back to the Blue Hole. It went fairly smoothly except that I would have missed the entrance to the Blue Hole if Jack hadn't pointed it out to me (the saddle in is only about six meters deep and we were still at twelve meters). Entry: At Nesima I spent the rest of the afternoon reading. Had one beer at the pool bar then hit the internet cafe for an hour. Since Friday night is supposed to be the big night out in Dahab, I'd never gone out on a Friday, and this was my last Friday in town I decided I was going to go out. I went back to the room, showered, shaved, and put on clean clothes. I also savored a couple cokes on ice that I'd cut out of a frozen bottle of water. I had a great (and cheap) dinner with Stacy and Mark at a nearby locals place (I had roast chicken while the others had grilled fish). The big night out ended up being a bit of a bust. The music was way to loud bad techno and I'd ate way to much to drink enough to tolerate it! After suffering for an hour I headed back to the hotel and bed.

September
23

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: Jack took Stacy and I to Lagoona to practice the skills we have to be able to demonstrate. Not an exciting dive, and I'm going to have to do it again tomorrow. I wasn't hungry, so at lunch I went to the internet cafe and worked on the emergency plan we have to finish as part of our dive master's class. Entry: In the afternoon I went to the Lighthouse with Jamal (another divemaster). We were doing a checkout dive, a mini class for certified divers who haven't dove in an extended amount of time. We had an English couple and Jamal had me run the entire class and dive. It was a bit daunting and I made a few mistakes (mostly things I left out of the pre-dive briefing) but mostly it went smoothly. Entry: Back at Nesima Stacy and I sat around and worked on our Emergency Plan. We had an early dinner at the Sharks Club then went to our respective internet cafes (we prefer different places) and each worked on a part of the Plan.

September
24

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: I went with a group to The Canyon. Some of the divers were actually going into the canyon, while the others were going to stay more shallow. When the two groups split, I took the guys into and through the canyon. The entire dive was a nightmare. The three divers I took into the canyon were very experienced French Federation divers. They also just didn't care about touching coral, or staying together. Their buoyancy control was terrible so they were constantly bumping into or stepping on things, but worse they just didn't care and would push off, step on, pull on, and just generally molest the coral (and whatever else they could get their hands on). To make things worse, they had hired a photographer to video them so we kept on having to redo things or swim a certain way. Also one of the guys had rented their own video camera - so I had to deal with two photographers - notoriously bad to dive with! So I ended up getting out of the water angry and frustrated. Besides the frustrations it was a very nice dive (the canyon always is). The highlights were three octopus (I cannot believe how quickly they can change colors) and a Red Sea Walkman (looks like the unlikely cross between a stonefish and a Monarch butterfly). Entry: For my lunch break I went to the Internet cafe - I was trying to save room for dinner. Entry: In the afternoon I went with Jack to Lagoona to practice demonstrating the eighteen skills again. I'd hoped to take the test and be done with it, but it was pretty obvious that I was not ready. Entry: After the afternoon dive Stacy and I worked on the Emergency Plan for a couple hours. At night Stacy and I went to the Hilton to get money out. While we were there we also decided to splash out and have dinner - especially since it was Tex-Mex night at the buffet. Dinner was actually very good. Back in the village I hit the internet again and successfully chatted with Amy.

September
25

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: Mark had told me that I needed to be at the dive club by eight o'clock so I had to skip breakfast. Of course when I got there nothing was going on and I sat around. After 20 minutes of waiting I decided to try to find a phone to call the Iranian embassy - that way I could at least start making plans. I looked around for Mark but couldn't find him so I left word and set out. I failed to find a working phone - all the pay phones get turned off during off hours, and none of the telecommunications centers open until afternoon. When I got back to the dive center ten minutes after leaving Mark was annoyed and tried to lecture me, luckily I was not in the mood and told him so. Entry: The dive went well, but it was with the same annoying French guys from yesterday's morning dive. At least I didn't see either of them damaging coral this time, but they were still all over the place and completely ignoring the group. Luckily I was guiding and Mark was following up the group - so he had to try and herd them together. Entry: During my lunch break I called the Iranian embassy in Cairo to ask about my visa. They still hadn't heard back from Tehran. When I asked when they were likely to get my application back they said they didn't know, they might never hear back. So l decided to give up on going to Iran. After a big lunch at the pizzeria I tried to call Emirates again to see if I could change my flight but even the phone numbers off their web page have changed. I ended up leaving my tickets with the hotel clerk who promised to try to get through. Entry: In the afternoon went with Mark and his group to Umm Sid for the second dive. I guided again and it went pretty well. Eve the French guy behaved themselves well! Entry: In the evening went back to the hotel and found everything take care of. So I'm not going to Iran, but now I have another week to spend in Egypt. That means I can relax a little with the rush to finish my course, and I'll have time to dive on the wreck of The Thistlegorm in Sharm. Entry: To celebrate I had two beers at the pool bar. Stacy went to "girls night" at one of the instructors houses so I went to the Internet then to a long Dinner at the Sharks Club. It was actually very nice to be o my own. I'd forgive how easy it is to meet people when you are on your own - so I got to talk to lots of people.

September
26

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: In the morning I led a dive to Golden Blocks with Alex. It was a nice dive, but the customer was a South African divemaster who used air at an incredible rate. The highlight of the dive was a large turtle that we saw a couple times and even hung out with us for several minutes near the end of the dive. At lunch I turned in a load of laundry and did falafel take away. Entry: In the afternoon Stacy and I went to the Lagoon with Jack to do out 18 skills demonstrations (one of the requirements for the divemaster certification is that you have to be able to show you can teach all the eighteen basic skills underwater). The only excitement was that after we followed this abandoned fishing line - we never found the end, but Jack somehow lost the slate with the all of our scores written on it! We searched for it, but with the strong winds if he lost it on the surface (last place we saw it) it's was half way to Saudi. It didn't really matter since we both passed everything. In fact it probably was for the best as not having the scores kept us from getting competitive with each other. Entry: In the evening we finished up our emergency plan (another DM requirement) and picked up laundry. Stacy and I walked around to Assalah to have a great dinner at Blue Beach.

September
27

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: This morning we did out "stress test" - actually not ver stressful. All we had to do was swap all of our scuba equipment while buddy breathing (the two of us taking turns breathing from one regulator). Considering that we hadn't given it any thought ahead of time it went very smoothly. After the stress test we each had to do a rescue scenario (pretend to rescue a diver and give them mouth to mouth as their towed to shore), and I had to do my 100 meter tired diver tow for time. Slowly but surely we're finishing up all the requirements! Entry: Spent the rest of the morning hanging out at Nesima. In the afternoon I went on a dive to Golden Blocks with Alex - I took the couple that had just been certified - so we kept it a lot shallower than the others. Not a bad dive but they went through their air very quickly. Entry: In the evening hung out at the pool for a couple beers. I took a break to call Amy - so nice to hear her voice. Then it was back to the pool for more beers. Stacy and I ended up going back to the Chinese Restaurant with Jack, Lynn (and Nadia), Mick, Elizabeth, and Danja.

September
28

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Photo: Loading camels, Gabr El Bint safari, south of Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: Loading camels, Gabr El Bint safari, south of Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: Camels, Gabr El Bint safari, south of Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: Looking back at Dahab, Gabr El Bint safari, south of Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: On safari, Gabr El Bint safari, south of Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: Tim, Gabr El Bint safari, south of Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: The lagoon, Gabr El Bint, south of Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: Camels, Gabr El Bint safari, south of Dahab, Egypt
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Entry: We got up very early. At Nesima we packed all the gear in to trucks then climbed in to the jeeps. An hour's drive south got us to the end of the road. There we transferred all the gear to camels. Each camel had a very full load - four tanks, two sets of gear, plus a person. Both Stacy an I decided not to ride. She felt guilty about the loads. I've been on a camel before and don't need to do it again. Besides I figured I'd walk there and if I'm tired after the dives I'll ride back - then the camels load will be light as well (tanks empty, food eaten). The walk only took an hour and a half along the coast line - it was very pleasant. Also it just felt good to get out of Dahab! Entry: At Gabr El Bint Stacy and I sketched the shape of the reef and paced off measurements on shore setting up piles of rocks every 50 meters so we could see the markings from the water. We justified our being on the trip by deciding to do our map project on the reef there. We threw our equipment together, suited up, and got in the water. The rest of the group was going to do two dives, the first to the right of the reef and the second to the left. Since Stacy and I were going to map the reef we chose to dive the left side on our own twice. The reef is shaped like a long finger straight out to see maybe 30 meters. then there is a steep wall parallel to the shore which runs about 100 meters with a sheltered lagoon shoreward of the wall. We snorkeled out to the end of the "finger" then dropped to about 30 m / 100 ft and followed the wall. The visibility was very good (40+ m / 130+ feet) there are some excellent large gorgonian fan corals. We'd just got to a collection of the gorgonians surrounding a rocky hollow full of glass fish (my favorites) when my regulator started to flow. It wasn't quite a free flow, but I was definitely loosing air fast enough that I stayed very close to my buddy! I kept trying to clear the secondary regulator thinking that maybe a piece of sand was stuck in it, but nothing worked - it just kept getting worse. So Stacy and I started to ascend. At about 10 m / 30 ft it started to get better then suddenly fixed itself. We spent the rest of the dive exploring the shallow lagoon and my gear performed perfectly. Entry: Out of the water we had lunch then I had to decide whether to take the back up regulator which I've not used before and is in unknown condition, or take my regulator which is currently working. I decided to stick with my regulator since I know it's working, and we'll just be careful, so that if it fails again Stacy will be close. The current was very strong on this dive. We tried to get back to the glass-fish hollow but the current was too strong to get down in the fans - we would have risked breaking them. We really didn't get to explore much because we were to busy taking notes and marking depths since we had to get all the data on this dive. I had no equipment problems which was a relief. Entry: On the way back I chose to ride a camel. As soon as we started I was reminded of how uncomfortable they are. I looked at my watch and resolved to ride for at least an hour before making the camel kneel down so I could get off. Luckily for me my saddle started to slip so seven minutes after getting on I was able to get off. Th trip back was the reverse - walk, unload camels / load trucks, ride back to Dahab. At Nesima we unloaded and cleaned the equipment then had a very nice beer at the pool bar. Talking to Mick it sounds like my regulator problem was probably the valve in the first stage getting unseated by the jostling and bumping of transport by camel - so everything should be fine now that it's reseated itself. Stacy and I went to this little Italian restaurant that had been recommended. It was a lot more expensive that we thought (and in fact more than double what any other place we've been to in Dahab has cost), but it was delicious - probably the best meal I've had since leaving Australia. And really it's only relatively expensive the meal still cost us less than $10 each. Back at the hotel I was absolutely exhausted. The good news is that in Egypt time changes tonight - that means we have an extra hour of sleep tonight!

September
29

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: In the morning went for a dive with Tim at the Canyon (my favorite). Conditions were good, and besides the drama of the canyon itself, and the beauty of the fishbowl, I also saw a large octopus, a large crocodile fish, and a couple of the ailien looking sea moths. To save time we went straight to the Blue Hole rather than returning to Nesima. The Blue Hole was out of control - I've never seen so many people there. It looked like a scene from Disneyland - there was well over a hundred snorkelers in the water! The group was Tim's problem group from the last week and they were trying to make amends - so they tried to buy him lunch, but he already gets his lunch free, so they bought me lunch! I guided the dive from Bell's back to the Blue Hole. As usual my main problem was that I went to fast. At the saddle into the hole (I didn't miss it this time) a couple of the divers were running low on air so I didn't get to swim in to the Blue. In the hole the visibility wasn't very good so when I cut across there was a time when we couldn't see any walls (or the bottom) - it was a little like bad vertigo, but also kind of neat. Entry: Back at Nesima we printed out our Emergency Plan (one of the few requirements we had left). Had beers as the pool bar, then went to dinner with Stacy, Mark, and Natalie at Sharks Club. Went back to Nesima for one more beer and hung out with Tim, Jack and Lynne. The music was so loud and horrible that I didn't stay long. Before going bed I stopped at an internet cafe for a half hour.

September
30

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: In the morning neither of us was that motivated to do a dive so we ended up heading to Tota for coffee and to work on the map (one of the last things we need to do to be done with our divemaster certification). Back at Nesima we hung out for awhile then had to pay for the last month - ouch! In the afternoon went for a fun dive with Stacy. We just jumped in the water at Nesima and followed the reef back to the bay. The dive was Ok. There was some nice coral and a decent sized eel, but nothing stunning. Afterwards I spent some more time on the Internet trying to find out about 3D mapping - I wanted to do our map on the computer but looks like Excel is going to be my only option. In the evening I went with Stacy to dinner at Sphinx. It was very disappointing - I won't be back. After dinner I hit the internet to try and find an access number for my phone card. I found one, but it seems that my account has been cancelled (I probably haven't used it in six months or longer...) I was trying to call home for my dad's birthday. After trying for an hour I gave up and called collect.

October, 2000

October
1

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: We were hoping to jump on a guided dive, but it was a mad house at Nesima and all the taxis to dive sites were full. After hanging out for a couple hours we finally arranged a ride to the Lighthouse with Jack's open water class. I've never dove deep there so it was something a little different. It was actually a nice dive, but even a hundred and ten feet down you could still see the crowds up shallow. Entry: I hung out for a while, then had a beer with the Nesima gang. Went to an internet cafe and had a nice chat with Amy. Both Stacy and I needed to get money out to pay our diving bill so we went to the Hilton for money & food. Of course it just happened to be TexMex night again... yummy!

October
2

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: Didn't have anything going this morning so Stacy, Tim, and I went for a fun dive at Umm Sid. It was planned to be a deep dive (40 m / 130 feet) since we wanted to go see a fan coral and giant moray at that depth. To extend our bottom time Tim Gerry rigged a second tank on to his BC - I was a little nervous about it, but it seemed to work well. The dive was good, we saw the fan coral, but the moray wasn't around. It's the first time I've put my computer in to decompression mode which was a little scary, but also a little reassuring we spent an extra thirty minutes in shallow water anyway so there was no worries. Entry: In the afternoon I tried to arrange a Thistlegorm trip out of Sharm, but I couldn't find anyone who was going in the next few days. I decided to skip the afternoon and got my dive physical done. The physical is a requirement for the Divemaster card, but a bit silly as I've already been diving with Nesima for a month. The physical was even sillier - the doctor asked me if I was ok to dive then stamped and signed his name - he didn't even take my pulse. I tried to figure out how to do our map on the computer. I was hoping I could get Excel to do a surface graph. I could, but the results were far from impressive so I decided it was just going to be to much work. Entry: Finished off the day at the pool bar with the regular crowd. I tried to call another club that someone recommended, and they have a Thistlegorm trip going - tomorrow morning. To make it I would have had to leave on the bus in fifteen minutes, so I didn't go. Had another beer and end up in a lousy mood so I went and had pizza for dinner by myself and then went to the Sharks Club for a chocolate thickshake for dessert.

October
3

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: I woke up feeling gross. Nothing specific I just didn't feel good and was in a lousy mood. I decided not to dive and sat down to work on the map. But then Tim was taking out six divers on a check out dive (means they haven't dove in six months or more) which is a big handful, so I agreed to go with him. We went to the Morray garden and it was a really pleasant dive. The check out part flew by and we managed to do a fifty minute real dive as well. Entry: I had a quick falafel lunch and tried to call Sharm to arrange a Thistlegorm (the wreck I've promised myself I'm going to dive). Unfortunately none of the dive shops I called has a boat going in the next few days so I'll have to keep trying. Realized that if I'm going to dive the Thistlegorm I'm going to have to leave Dahab tomorrow! I can't believe how quickly the month has flown by. Entry: In the afternoon I went with the same group of divers to the Eel Garden. The conditions were perfect, except everyone was there the dive site was packed. Several groups were being very unprofessional and would rush around from group to group scaring off whatever we (or one of the other groups) were looking at. It was very annoying, since it should have been a perfect dive. I took four of the divers who ran low on air in early. When I was sitting on the reef table taking off my fins one of the girls is still snorkeling and is frantically tapping my leg and pointing so I put on my mask and there's a little Morray eel that I'm sitting on! Well it's frantically trying to figure out how to get out from under the rock I sat on. Entry: Back at Nesima I finished off the map - last thing that had to be done. I'm now officially done with my course! Had a few beers at the pool then headed back to the hotel to pack (very sad). On the way out of the bar Cynthia mentioned that they're fully booked tomorrow so they might actually need us to work - now that we're divemasters! Hit the internet, had a final dinner at the Sharks Club, then back to pack. I hate packing, it's just so final.

October
4

Dahab, Egypt
Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Lodging: Yasmina Entry: There was a possibility that Nesima was going to need us to work tomorrow (since we are technically divemasters) so we were up early to pack and check out of the hotel and then get down to Nesima a little early. The dive center was an absolute mad house but after the dust had settled it turned out that they didn't need us to guide. Stacy and I walked down to a neighboring center and rented a camera, then arranged transport and gear to go dive the Canyon. The conditions were amazing the water was mirror flat with not a breath of wind to disturb it. A perfect day to dive - especially since it was going to be to hot to do anything out of the water. Entry: At the dive site we quickly donned our gear and headed for the water to get out of the heat. It was so cal that we snorkeled out the lagoon and over to above the main canyon entry to conserve air. We dropped through the large opening and headed down the narrow semi enclosed passage. We'd intended to go deeper than the guided dives are allowed to go, but we didn't want to commit to going through the entry at the end as neither of us had ever been that deep (50 m / 160 feet) so we decided to turn around when one of the computers entered decompression mode and to make the final choice in the water. Our camera was only waterproof to 36 meters / 120 feet so we tied in off midway down the canyon and dropped lower to have a look. At the final arch I still had four minutes time and wasn't feeling at all narced so I signaled Stacy to ask if we were Ok to go through the end - she signaled Ok back and down we went. On the other side of the arch wasn't the outside, but a largish chamber with an obvious exit to the outside - it was beautiful with the light streaming in, and swimming out on the the sloping wall at the end of the canyon was an incredible feeling - and an adrenaline rush. We swam perpendicular to the contour slowly ascending to stay out of a decompression mode then went to drop back in to the canyon through the main entry (back at 20 m / 65 feet) but had to stop due to there being an advanced open water class already there. It would be bad etiquette to enter while they were there, plus I didn't feel comfortable since it was a class and what we were doing was sort of a gray area as to whether it should be allowed (there is a 30 m / 100 foot floor for the guided dives in the South Sinai) plus our wet suits clearly say "Nesima" on them so we'd be easy to complain about. It was a bit of a dilemma since I wanted to spend as little time this deep as possible to give our bodies the maximum time to off gas nitrogen at a more shallow depth. We ended up swimming down the canyon a bit and squeezing through one of the narrow openings in the roof of the canyon. There was an anxious couple minutes where I didn't see the camera but then it was right where we left it. We retrieved it then swam back up the canyon and out the main entry (passed the class which was still there). We reentered the canyon at the fish bowl. This is my favorite place in Dahab and I wanted to say goodbye, but there was only time to and snap a few quick pictures as the class had finally started up the canyon and was coming up the chimney into the glass fish chamber. We made our way to shallow water and spent a very long safety stop exploring the shallow reefs and taking pictures to remind us. Entry: After the dive we decided that we had pushed the limits a little close and decided not to do a second dive - even though the computers said all was well. We headed back to Nesima very excited but not sure whether we should admit to what we'd done. At Nesima we hung out and filled in the paperwork associated with our dive masters application. I had a late lunch and spent the afternoon calling clubs in Sharm el-Sheik to see if I could arrange a dive on the Thistlegorm. I found one place that sounded like they could do it but when I called back they refused me. Since I couldn't find the dive I wanted Stacy and I decided to stay another night in Dahab. Nesima had a dive trip going to Ran Mohammed National Park (down past Sharm) tomorrow but it was uncertain that we could get on it. We decided that if we could we'd go do that, otherwise we'd spend tomorrow in Dahab - either way we'll be on the overnight bus back to Cairo tomorrow. I headed into the village to check the internet and see if I could buy a couple books since I have a lot of travel hours ahead. When we got back to Nesima we had our spaces confirmed for the Ras Mohammed trip - so it was back to the Yasmina to check in. We'd were planning on going snorkeling on Nesima reef to use up the rest of the film in the camera, but ended up just shooting it around the pool bar. Entry: Had a few beers then I ran out to pick up laundry and buy a couple T-shirts, then returned to the bar for a couple more beers. Ended up having lunch with Mick, Elizabeth, Danga, and Stacy. Then said goodbye and headed home to pack again. It was really hard to say goodbye, the month has flown by and I think it's lucky that I have my near future planned - otherwise it would be very tempting to stay and try to work for a month or twenty.

October
5

Sharm el-Sheikh, Egypt
From Dahab Found In: Southern Sinai's Flag

Region: Southern Sinai Route: Minibus: Dahab - Sharm el-Sheikh ; Dive Boat: Sharm el-Sheikh - Ras Mohammed - Sharm el-Sheikh ; Bus: Sharm el-Sheikh - Cairo Entry: We checked out of the hotel by six thirty. Loading our gear at Nesima went pretty quickly and before seven we were on our way to Ras Mohammed National Park (at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula). The ride south was smooth until just outside Sharm el-Sheikh when the main road was closed for security - there is a meeting of Arab leaders to discuss the Palestine Israel situation in Sharm. We managed to get around several closed roads by taking dirt roads through the desert until we got stuck at a road block just outside Shark Bay (where we were supposed to be catching our dive boat - southwest of Na'am Bay and Sharm el-Sheikh). We were held up about half an hour but were finally permitted to go through, at Shark Bay Stacy and I dumped our packs at reception while the gear was quickly loaded on to the boat. We ended up leaving the dock about an hour late. Entry: The trip out to Ras Mohammed took two hours. The first dive was a drift dive from Shark Reef to the wreck of the Yolanda on Yolanda Reef. The drift was pretty good along the drop-off outside of the reefs: big walls, big blue, and a big Napoleon, and unfortunately big crowds. The coral was nice, there were quite a lot of fish, and the water visibility was good. However, there were a dozen other boats and well over a hundred divers in the water. It was by far the most crowded dive I've ever done. The highlights were a largish Napoleon (4-5 feet long and about 3 feet high) fish that swam out of the blue to investigate us and the wreck. The Yolanda was and Israeli cargo ship sunk in the early seventies by the Egyptian military. She had been suspected of carrying munitions but was really only carrying bathroom fixtures. The over all effect is surreal and almost comic. A somber, brooding wreck slowly disappearing, but surrounded by mountains of toilets! and bath tubs and sinks. There must be close to a thousand toilets and except for a slight coat of algae they look brand new (you can easily read the "Standard Ideal" brand name). The coral and fish were beautiful (but not spectacularly more so than Dahab) and the wreck was fascinating - overall it should have been a great dive, but it was just to crowded to enjoy properly. Entry: After an hour surface interval spent wandering around the reed we returned to the same starting place. The second dive was another drift dive, again from Shark Reef to the wreck of the Yolanda, but along the much shallower route inside the reefs. The scenery wasn't nearly as dramatic - no drop-offs or big blue - but there were a lot less people and a lot more fish. Even the second time the wreck was completely surreal. The highlights were a small Napoleon fish and a couple big Morray eels. Entry: After the second dive we had a huge lunch while the boat headed back towards Sharm. The final dive was back near port along shore and right under a huge condominium complex - I didn't have high hopes. It started out along a fairly barren wall, but soon we started passing some excellent pinnacles - slender towers of coral swarming with fish and coral. The highlight was some very large trigger fish and several large Morrays. One of the Morray eels was by far the largest I've ever seen - its head was nearly a foot in diameter! The dive was pretty shallow so my air could have lasted forever. When I realized that this was my last dive in the Red Sea for a while - I was very reluctant to come up when Jamal called the end of the dive. The dive wasn't in the national park, it was a highly developed area, and we even went by a couple of dive classes doing their drills, yet the lack of crowds, the nice topography and the giant eels made it my favorite dive of the day. Entry: Overall I found the diving a little disappointing. I would have rather had the extra day of diving in Dahab. It was, however, nice to be reassured that we made the right choice in picking Dahab to do our dive master course. Back at Shark Bay we looked around and realized that not only is Dahab less crowded with a much nicer atmosphere, but it's almost half the cost - for everything: diving, lodging, food, etc. all seem to cost twice as much (and sometimes more) in Shark Bay / Na'am Bay / Sharm el-Sheikh. We hung out and had dinner at the resort restaurant before sharing a taxi to the bus station. We had no trouble catching the eleven o'clock bus and it even left on time. The bus was fairly empty so it was possible to grab a couple seats and I actually managed to fall asleep through most of it.

October
6

Cairo, Egypt
From Sharm el-Sheikh Found In: Entry: Woke up for the last time as the bus was entering Cairo. We got dropped off earlier than expected and easily caught a taxi to our hotel. The hotel had a room available and as the sun was rising I crawled into bed for a couple more hours of sleep! The highlight of the day was definitely the shower - good pressure, plenty hot, and freshwater! It's the first time in over a month that I've had a fresh water shower - I'd forgotten how much soap lathers. Entry: Knowing where I was going this time I hiked the fifteen minute walk to the FedEx office to pick up my returned H/PC. This being Egypt nothing is allowed to be easy so it should have been expected - they've moved the office. The doorman doesn't speak English, but he writes down the address in Arabic and then flags down a taxi and negotiates for me. A very interesting forty minute drive later gets me to the new office in Heliopolis. The drive took me through some of the worst and ritziest parts of Cairo I've seen. It also took me around the Citadel and the City of the Dead - so I had lots of history too. At the new office they were open and had my device ready. The only drawback was that I had to pay duty - even though I'm taking the computer out of the country tomorrow. Entry: Since I was in Heliopolis I decided to find the main Emirates Airline office instead of going to the satellite office at the Marriott. Unfortunately no one knew where the office was, but then I remembered that the tourist office had written the address down for me in Arabic on my map. I found the address and asked the woman at FedEx to confirm it was for Emirates and in Heliopolis. Easily caught a taxi and was on my way again. Another longish taxi ride got me to the Emirates embassy - not the airlines. I had found the wrong address! Plus since it was Friday the embassy is closed. After a lot of discussion I give up and direct the driver to the Marriott on Zamaleck island (near downtown) where I know there is an Emirates office. Entry: At the Marriott I wander around until I find signs for Emirates Airline and start following them - but they lead in a circle! I finally find someone to ask and am told that the office has moved outside the hotel. Another taxi ride gets me to the offices but they're closed too. The boy at the door didn't speak English so he takes me up to someone in the office can find out when they're going to open. The boy got yelled at, but I found someone who could help. The poor guy had come in on his day off to get caught up and he has to deal with me. To my relief my flight did get changed so I have a flight to Dubai tomorrow and a flight on to Bangkok a week later. Unfortunately the guy told me that it's unlikely they'll give me a visa at the airport - or if I'm lucky a three day transit visa days is all that is possible. He suggests I beg and then adjust my ticket depending on what they give me. Since they probably won't let me on the airplane tomorrow as my tickets were, he also adds a reservation for a flight to Bangkok a few hours after I arrive tomorrow morning - so if I get denied entry to Dubai I'll just continue on to Thailand... Entry: Meet up with Stacy and go for a disappointing fast food lunch. Drop my H/PC off at the hotel then headed for Khan el Khali (the old bazzar). Spent the evening wandering around and Stacy bought a couple souvenirs but I just couldn't get in to it. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow. At the internet cafe I downloaded a ton of software to restore my H/PC with and went shopping for a lens to replace the one that broke in Malawi - I'd just realized that my parents could bring it with them when I meet them in Thailand. Entry: Just after midnight and before Stacy was going to head for the airport I turned on my phone. Stacy was worried about having problems since her visa expired a few days ago and wanted to be able to call if she needed help. Minutes after I turned the phone on I got a call! It was my friend Susie from Sydney. The Irony is that the only other call I've gotten was also in the middle of the night from another friend right when Stacy got here from the airport. Weird. Anyway I had a quick chat with Suz then said goodbye to Stacy. I stayed up very late getting my computer back to usable shape and the getting some of my journal ready to be published on the web tomorrow.

October
7

Dubai, United Arab Emirates
From Cairo, Egypt Found In: Route: Emirates Airline Flight EK408: Cairo - Dubai Entry: I woke up at 8:30 - the question I can't answer is why? Spent the morning packing and writing another day's journal entry. I also took another fantastic fresh water shower. Spent a couple hours in the afternoon at the Internet cafe getting the journal for the last month plus updated. I was planning on going to Khan el-Kahli (the bazaar) again, but it was a very hot day and I just couldn't motivate. I tried to go to the American University Bookstore to pick up some more English reading material but it was closed. Instead I rummaged through a used book stall and found what looks to be a mediocre crime thriller - but is set in Orange County - where I grew up! Entry: On the ride to the airport the taxi driver complained about Egyptian women and extolled the virtues of Dubai's women (I translated that to mean that prostitutes are easily available). At Airport they wouldn't check my baggage through to Dubai, it had to go all the way to Bangkok since I didn't have an Emirates visa. The flight was smooth but to short for sleep. Entry: At Dubai I talked with an Emirates representative for half an hour and managed to get a 24 hour visa. They can only issue visas for up to four days and there were no other flights with space so one day is all I got. Then I had to wait while my luggage was offloaded. I finally gave up and went to the baggage services office where they called around (repeating everything the Emirates desk had already done). Finally two hours after landing I walked out of the airport. Part of my visa / hotel fee included a shuttle bus so at lease I didn't have to worry about transportation. The hotel room is a lot nicer than I expected - it's huge with large sitting area and giant bathroom (including a big bathtub!) I finally made it to bed sometime after three.

October
8

Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Found In: Route: Emirates Airline Flight EK086: Dubai - Bangkok Lodging: Emirates Airline Flight EK086: Dubai - Bangkok Photo: Dhow dock and city skyline, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Entry: I tried to check out of the hotel at noon but when I asked where I could leave my bag they said I could have the room until midnight. Apparently I paid for the room for 24 hours. Weird. I took a taxi into the Deira side of the city center. My first job for the day was to get my air tickets straightened out. Since I didn't use the Cairo - Nairobi - Dar es Salaam - Nairobi - Cairo and Dubai - Tehran - Dubai legs I have a lot of extra miles. I'm hoping to forget Taiwan and get back to the US on the ticket. I spent a half hour with an Emirates Air representative. Just for fun I tried to see if I could extend my stay in Dubai a couple more day, but there just weren't any seats available to Bangkok past tomorrow morning - the flight continues on to Hong Kong and apparently there is some kind of big conference going on there. So I'm still leaving for Thailand very early tomorrow morning. I wanted to cancel the rest of tickets after Bangkok and get new ones issued but they couldn't issue the new tickets without an Ok from the issuing office (in Australia), so I have the reservations (Bangkok - Tokyo - San Francisco) and I can go check in Bangkok. Hopefully there won't be any problems. Entry: Spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Deira. I wandered around the Dhow docks - this was my favorite place in Dubai. They weren't the friendly little dhows of East Africa - these were mammoth ocean going cargo vessels - still made of wood, but very few even bother with having a sail. The variety of cargo be offloaded was staggering - produce, sections of cars, and mattresses were just some of the things I saw sitting on the wharf. Entry: Next up was a wander through some of the souqs (markets). In Beniyas Square I found a bookstore and bought a couple books. I bought Lonely Planet's South-East Asia on a Shoestring so I won't be arriving in Bangkok totally unprepared (I still can't believe I'll be in Thailand tomorrow morning!) I also bought the second book in the Harry Potter series. Deira Souq (the Spice Market) and the gold souq were a little disappointing. Deira Souq has all the spices and strange things that one expects in a middle eastern bazaar, but lacks the atmosphere, and having been in Cairo's Khan el-Khali just a couple days ago I was let down. Lonely Planet says the gold souq was not to be missed - I found it a monument to tackiness and nothing special. It could have been at home in Las Vegas. I also wandered around the al-Sabkha Road shopping district until long after dark when my feet got tired and I headed back. In my hotel room I took advantage of having someplace to lay down, air-conditioning, and a bath tub. Entry: At the airport I checked in and wandered around but couldn't summon any more enthusiasm for shopping (the main activity in Dubai's airport) so I sat down and read until it was time to load the plane. The flight was comfortable but even though I managed to score an emergency row seat with tons of leg room I still didn't get any sleep.

October
9

Bangkok, Thailand
From Dubai, United Arab Emirates Found In: Route: Emirates Airline Flight EK086: Dubai - Bangkok Entry: By the time the plane landed I was really starting to feel wrecked. I didn't sleep at all on the plane and didn't get that much sleep the night before either. I got through immigration and customs without any problems and by two P.M. was in a taxi. We were a good ten minutes down the road before I realized that he hadn't turned on his meter. He wanted to charge me way more than it should have cost and I had to demand he pull over immediately before he'd even negotiate. I ended up paying the upper edge of what I thought I should have paid. Entry: Found the guest house that Danga (part of the diver crowd in Dahab) had recommended. As I walked in I realized that Stacy might be here, or if she's not she'll probably be showing up today. I hadn't been planning on being in Thailand so quickly so I don't remember when she was going to get here (we were going to overlap one day), but I know she was only going to be in Amsterdam two days. The room is costing me a little more than I thought it should but it's clean. Small (the bed fills up two thirds of it and if I lie down straight both my feet and head touch the walls), but it's also homily decorated and clean. I laid down for a nap and woke up a couple hours later still feeling tired. I realized that the airline office was probably already closed (getting my tickets changed and looking in to a flight to Cambodia were my goals for today) so I went back to sleep. The next time I woke up it was to the loudest thunder I've ever heard and it was dark outside. Sometime later I woke up still tired, but feeling much better and it was getting light outside. I checked my clock and it was just after six. I got up thinking I'd get a very early start on the day but when I checked the time again I realized that it was six P.M. - the earlier darkness must have been caused by the sudden storm. So I went back to sleep again. I was wide awake at midnight so I pulled out my journal to start getting caught up. When I went down stairs to wash up I noticed that the bar was still open. I ended up having a couple beers with an English wanker and a German guy.

October
10

Bangkok, Thailand
Found In:

Entry: On my way out of the guest house this morning I stopped to take a look at the register - Stacy checked in this morning. Tracked her down in the dorm room and woke her up - she'd landed early thins morning. The funny thing is that she hadn't even noticed my name two lines above hers when she was filling in her info. I sat around waiting for her then hung out for a while. Hit the brand new internet cafe next door - it just opened today. In the afternoon I resumed my ticket quest. I spent 45 minutes in a taxi to get to the Emirates office - the traffic is not nice in Bangkok. At the office my request was turned down, because I didn't have enough miles - the guy in Dubai had neglected to mention all the legs that I hadn't used. So after carefully explaining everything to her the representative couldn't figure out a reason why I couldn't do what I wanted to and wrote a very long explanation to the office, so again I have to wait until tomorrow. I think it's going to work out though. Entry: After leaving the office I sampled some of the street food - a sweet crape type thing - yum. The street food in general looks excellent. Crossing a canal I looked down and saw a boat bus go by and thought that sounded much nicer than a hour an a half in bus, and it was going more or less the right way. I figured if I ended up lost I could always take a taxi. Ten minutes later I was on my way. Entry: On the boat I was feeling pretty good about Bangkok - and city where an hour in a bus can be replaced by 20 minutes on a boat can't be all bad. It's a huge bustling, crowded, frantic city, but there are huge islands of calm in the many wats (temple complexes). It's definitely in your face, but in a friendly way. Plus with the the food, the budget prices, and all the smiling people well, I'm starting to like this city. Entry: After two boats I'd gone as far as I could on the water. A very pleasant hour walk got me back to the guest house. Stacy and I had cocktail hour (margaritas!) and then dinner at the lodge - it was very good. After dinner I hung out and talked with some of the other people passing though.

October
11

Bangkok, Thailand
Found In:

Weather: Overcast / Rain / Overcast Photo: Coin operated prayer machines, Wat Traimit, Bangkok, Thailand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Entry: Spent the morning trying to figure out my tickets again - I called the Emirates office, but there had been no response from Sydney, so they sent the message again and promised to call me when they heard back. Then I spent some time on email until the power for the neighborhood failed. Stacy and I hung out at the Shanti with several other tourist just talking about places (the Peace Corps, Egypt, Thailand, etc). I went by a nearby travel agent to look into flying to Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) in Cambodia with my parents. Tickets are available I just need to check with my parents to make sure I have the dates right. Walked into the city, stopping to turn in a couple rolls of film - including our underwater pictures from our final canyon dive in Dahab, and to make a call home to ask about the Cambodia dates (I was right). Wandered down through the streets stopping for some street food (incredible fried chicked!). Explored the shopping stalls (mostly counterfits) of Khao San Road then realized we were running out of time if we wanted to see any of the wats (temples). Entry: Caught a taxi to Wat Traimit, the "Golden Buddha" It's a smaller complex, but the main attraction is a seven tonn solid gold buddha. The gold had been hidden under stucco to hide it from some invading army in the distant past and it wasn't discovered until 1955 when the buddha was accidentaly dropped while being moved to it's current location - some of the plaster chipped off revealing the golden image underneath. The buddha image is pretty garish, but at the same time does seem to glow with an inner fire. I was more impressed with the prayer machines outside the temple doors. They look like slot machines - you insert a coin and the lights spin, electric incence burns, and your prayers are answered - or something like that. Entry: From Wat Traimit (Chinatown) we walked across town to Siam square. Some of the neighborhoods were a little ragged, but it was a pleasant glimps into one of the more local real of the city. Siam Square was definitely not an authentic experience. We walked in to a huge modern shopping mall (multiple Mc Donald's and every other fast food chain) and saw the new Harrison Ford movie What Lies beneath - I didn't like it. After the moview we found my holly grail - a Starbucks! We tried to figure out a bus home, but couldn't find one that would get us where near the guesthouse, so we ended up taking a taxi. Entry: Back at the lodge one of the staff told me that there was a call from the airlines for me, but she didn't have a message so I'll have to call back in the morning. We sat in the bar area and had a beer while we tried to research where we should go. We've decided we're definitely getting out of Bangkok tomorrow but the question is where. Right now Nkhon Pathom and Kanchanaburi (where the bridge over the River Kwai is) are looking like the plan, but I could wake up with a need to go to the beach.

October
12

Nakhon Pathom, Thailand
From Bangkok Found In: Photo: The Buddha image named Phra Ruan Rojanariddhi Sri Indradhit Dharmopas Maha Vajiravuth Raj Pujaniyaborpit, Phra Pathom Chedi, Nakhon Pathom, Thailand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: The Buddha image named Phra Ruan Rojanariddhi Sri Indradhit Dharmopas Maha Vajiravuth Raj Pujaniyaborpit, Phra Pathom Chedi, Nakhon Pathom, Thailand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 388-796 Photo: The Buddha image named Phra Ruan Rojanariddhi Sri Indradhit Dharmopas Maha Vajiravuth Raj Pujaniyaborpit, Phra Pathom Chedi, Nakhon Pathom, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: The Buddha image named Phra Ruan Rojanariddhi Sri Indradhit Dharmopas Maha Vajiravuth Raj Pujaniyaborpit, Phra Pathom Chedi, Nakhon Pathom, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Entry: I got up early and packed. First thing after my shower I called Emirates and found out that they're going to let me change my ticket - for a fee, but not a lot. Arranged a flight to Siem Reap with a friend of the guesthouse's manager. Then I checked email and had breakfast. Stacy and I wandered down to pick up the film we'd dropped off yesterday. The photos from our Canyon dive were a little bit disappointing, but there are a couple from the fish bowl that I really like. The other roll I got developed was mostly from Malawi with a couple from the pyramids in Egypt. I walked down to the cheaper phone place that I used yesterday to call home only to find it closed for some reason. I hike back to the lodge and ended up calling Amy from the internet cafe next door. It was nice to talk to her as it's been a couple weeks. At about one my Cambodia ticket was finally delivered and Stacy I headed out of Bangkok. Entry: We walked down the street trying to find a taxi, but none of them would take us to the bus station. I didn't think they were understanding us so we walked back to the lodge and got them to write the name of the bus station in Thai. That worked and we were soon at the bus station. The timing was perfect, we walked in to the bus station bought our tickets, climbed on the bus and as we were sitting down the bus was pulling away (though they short changed us 12 Bhat - about 30¢). The bus was actually very comfortable much to my surprise there was tons of leg room. The hour ride had some tantalizing glimpses of jungle, but most of the way it was developed. At Nakhon Pathom we had some trouble finding the hotel - Lonely Planet's directions don't seem to reflect reality. When we found the hotel we dropped our gear and headed for Phra Pathom Chedi before it closed. Phra Pathom Chedi is the site of the largest Buddhist Pagoda in the world (125 meters / 406 feet) which was built on the site of the oldest Buddhist temple in Thailand. There is a large standing Buddha image on one side of the Pagoda is specifically sign posted as being named Phra Ruan Rojanariddhi Sri Indradhit Dharmopas Maha Vajiravuth Raj Pujaniyaborpit (say that ten times fast). Entry: We wandered around some of the neighboring streets looking for a drink and just generally absorbing the evening atmosphere. We had dinner at the night market - lots of weird things, but I settled for a simple, and delicious, dish of friend chicken and chilies on rice. The best thing about dinner was that we didn't see any other foreigners and we definitely cause a stir - especially among the kids. Even just an hour out of Bangkok it felt good to be out of the crowd. Only difficulty came when it was time to go to bed - there was an outdoor cinema set up at the night market, just across the road. And the volume was set to eleven... I don't know how many movies were shown but they didn't stop until nearly two!

October
13
Kanchanaburi, Thailand
From Nakhon Pathom via Damnoen Saduak; and Nakhon Pathom Found In: Lodging: J's Floating Guest House Photo: Canals around the floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Canals around the floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Canals around the floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Canals around floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: Canals around floating market, Damnoen Saduak, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 182-323 Photo: J's Floating Guest House, Kanchanaburi, Thailand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 090-284 Photo: J's Floating Guest House, Kanchanaburi, Thailand
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 090-284 Entry: After last nights movies on full volume until early this morning - well the six o'clock alarm was not pleasant. Even though we managed to get up we still somehow missed the 6:30 bus. So we caught the seven o'clock bus instead. It was only an hour trip and the scenery was interesting, but I was having to struggle to stay awake. The bus was supposed to drop us off in town where we'd have to catch a local bus to the market itself, but instead the took us right to the canals - which we thought was great until we realized the driver had taken us directly to his friends and we had massive pressure to hire a boat. We went and sat down for a drink first, but in the end did end up hiring one - at a third the first price. Entry: The ride through the canals was great - beautiful orchids and dense green growth separated elevated wooden houses that looked like they'd just come out of a National Geographic magazine - perfect. The floating market was just a regular market set along the canal banks - plus dozens of small boats and canoes selling everything - produce to hats we even saw many venders cooking in their canoes! It was very cool, but there were way too many tourist. Rather there weren't that many tourists there today (we saw maybe a half dozen other boats with tourists in our hour and a half), but the prices were very inflated (three to four times the starting price in Bangkok) so it's obvious that their used to the package tours. Entry: We started walking from the boat docks to the bus station in town but flagged down a local bus so we didn't really have to walk far. The ride back was unexciting but I had the head nods again. At our hotel we still had over an hour until we needed to check out so I laid down to rest and of course didn't sleep at all. We left our packs with the hotel then wandered through the market looking for lunch. Ended up with delicious mini spring roll type things with a sweet chili sauce, but we saw some things that we weren't brave enough to try. The cooked five inch long cockroaches, fried grubs, and some other kind of segmented worm would have been our next choice. Entry: We were waiting for the air-conditioned bus to Kanchanaburi but decided to take the non-A/C bus when it showed up first (actually a local told us that there wasn't an A/C bus but I don't think he understood what we were asking because at least three passed us). The real problem with the non-A/C bus was that it was cheaper (maybe 60¢ instead of 75¢) - which meant way more crowded and many more stops. In Kanchanaburi we started walking for the river. We'd read a recommendation for a guest house, but couldn't find it in the guide book and no one could tell us where it was so we decided to walk to the river and find a place that looked ok. We probably walked about an hour without ever actually getting to the river but in the end we found a sign for J's (the recommended place). The guest house is great, it's a collection of floating platforms that looks just like a floating guest house in Thailand should - very funky. Everything a river village in south east Asia should be! There was a huge choice of rooms and at the end we decided to splurge on the nicest room - it's it's own platform with a second story deck - we can even see "The Bridge Over the River Kwai" bridge - and it's still cheaper than Bangkok. First bit of business was to get mosquito coils - I can't imagine a better mosquito breeding area. The rest of the evening was spent sitting on the restaurant platform reading, drinking beers, and having dinner. After dinner we sat around and had a few more beers while playing cards. Sitting there on the rough hewn wood deck, looking out over the perfectly still water with the occasional firefly drifting by I had a major deja-vu experience of sitting at the restaurant at the "Pirates of the Caribbean" ride at Disneyland! Getting ready for bed I was not too excited to see one of those giant cockroaches in our bathroom - I guess it's to be expected living over a swamp. I just made sure the bathroom door was closed.

October
14
Kanchanaburi, Thailand
Via Erawan Falls Found In: Lodging: J's Floating Guest House Entry: I was so tired last night that I just couldn't make myself set the alarm. So this morning I was dead to the world until nine. So much for our early start to Erawan Falls. Plus I was still feeling so sleepy that I convinced Stacy that we should catch the 10:30 bus and let me sleep another hour. I even considered going tomorrow but that would have been pushing getting back to Bangkok and Stacy has an early morning flight out the next day so I got up. Entry: As we left I realized that it's mostly sunny - by far the nicest day I've had in Thailand. At the bus station we must have just missed the bus because we had to wait an hour and it's supposed to run every 50 minutes. The bus was one of the local busses with absolutely no leg room but there weren't many people so it wasn't uncomfortable. The ride went up through the mountains - very pretty, sharp peaks and dense forest. The only problem was that I was so tired I couldn't keep my eyes open. One bonus was that the bus now goes through the park entrance and actually dropped off at the start of the falls trail, the guide book said it would drop us off three kilometers away. This ended up being important as with sleeping in, waiting for the bus, and a four o'clock last bust we only have two and a half hours to hike. Entry: Unfortunately I was surprised to find that the falls were absolutely packed with people at least they appear to be mostly local. It's a really accessible, pretty spot and it's obvious that nearby people take advantage of it. It reminded me a lot of the crowd you would find at Snoqualmie Falls on the first sunny weekend in awhile. Erawan Falls is actually a series of seven falls, or tiers, dropping a total of two thousand meters! Between each tier there are multiple swimming holes and lush little islands. Most of the falls are really just steep rapids, but the seventh step is a huge free fall. It is so perfect, the rocks are nice and rough - not slippery at all, the pools, the landscaping - at some point it was really difficult to believe the thing hadn't been built by Disney. We made it to the bottom of the seventh tier but there were still lots of people. The amount of time we had was perfect to make it to the final fall and back but it didn't give us any time to explore (we actually tuned around a little later than we'd planned, but we couldn't turn around when we were so close). So we rushed back to the bus and actually scored the last seat available - good thing because it was a very full bus - and it ran out of gas causing a thirty minute delay - at least we were sitting. Back in Kanchanaburi we weren't paying attention and missed the stop. The next one would have been the bus station - a good 40 minute hike - we had to go a couple extra kilometers but then the bus slowed down enough to jump off. Just as we were getting back to the guest house it started to rain - perfect timing! Entry: I had a very much needed shower - it's amazing how much one sweats in near 1009midity. We finished off the night having dinner and a few beers while listening to the rain, reading, and watching the fire flies.

October
15
Bangkok, Thailand
From Kanchanaburi Found In: Entry: I finally got to sleep in - it was good. Spent the morning working on my journal, packing, and taking a couple pictures of the lodge. After we checked out we took the luxury of a late, long breakfast. Entry: After breakfast we left the bags at the guest house and walked the two miles down the river to the "Bridge Over the River Kwai". It was a mad house - I could not believe the number of tourist - this must be a stop on the day tours out of Bangkok. We walked across the narrow rail road bridge and looked around the small crafts market on the other side - not too interesting. Back on the other side I wandered around the Kanchanaburi market while Stacy bought clothes. We hired a pedal-trike to take us back to our packs. It was this little old man and I think both Stacy and I were terrorized that we was going to keel over lugging us around - we both felt very guilty. Entry: At the lodge we had a late lunch and then grabbed our packs and headed for the bus station. The sky was getting very dark and threatening rain so we caught a taxi. At the bus station we waited in a huge queue to buy tickets and got on a wonderfully comfortable (relatively) air-conditioned bus just as the skies opened and it started to pour rain. The entire trip back to Bangkok was through a massive electrical storm. In Bangkok we had trouble with explaining to the taxi driver where we wanted to go again. We finally had to just guide him as he couldn't make sense of our map. At the Shanti checked in then I checked email. My parents are due in tomorrow and hadn't left any contact plans, so I called home and made some. I had drinks and dinner with Stacy - the food was great, and the long island ice tea was ok - next time I'll stick to their very good margarita. I called home a second time to talk to Amy. I wanted to let her know that I would be flying in to San Francisco on October fifth. I also tried a couple other calls, but couldn't get through to anyone else. Entry: After another beer it was time for bed - somehow I was exhausted again. I said goodbye to Stacy as she's leaving early tomorrow for Indonesia. Sometime in the middle of the night I woke up and realized that I was having my second bed bug experience. I think I killed them all, but I'm still not quite so happy as I was about the Shanti Lodge - I want my old room back!

October
16
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Weather: Overcast / Partial Sun / Rain Entry: I got to sleep in again! Two nights in a row. Unfortunately the guesthouse gets noisy quite early so it wasn't that great. Spent the morning doing laundry, writing in my journal, and having a yummy breakfast. In the afternoon I took a taxi to the Emirates office downtown. I spent another hours with the agent, but at the end I have my new tickets! I'm flying from Bangkok to Tokyo on November second and on to San Francisco on November fifth. Rather that pay for a taxi I took a canal boat about half way back then walked to Siam Square. I spent the afternoon wandering around amazed at the excess - the malls here make anything in the US look small. I only bought a couple books so I'd have reading materials. Had a big fancy lunch / dinner. Just for the adventure I caught the Sky train back towards the lodge. Spent an hour on the internet - mostly just playing. Spent the late night sitting around reading while waiting for my parents to call when they got to their hotel - the finally called just after midnight - they made it! Unfortunately I picked the wrong flight, so we're not going to be flying in to Cambodia together - they'll be four hours behind me. I did most of my packing then went to bed.

October
17
Siem Reap, Cambodia
From Bangkok, Thailand Found In: Entry: After I finished packing I checked out. I tried to change my flight to the later one that my parents are on, but no one would even answer the phone. I took a taxi to the hotel my parents are at - it's out near the airport. It was great to see my parents - it's been almost exactly a year since I last saw them in Morocco. From their room I tried to change my ticket again - this time successfully! So now we have four hours to hang out and then we'll be on the same flight. We talked, then went for a walk through the hotel's huge gardens. After we had a huge buffet lunch at the hotel we headed for the airport - I scored a free ride with the tour group. The airplane was a two engine propeller plane - I don't think I've ever been on an international flight that was aboard a prop driven plane! Entry: The flight was smooth and only an hour. At the airport I waited in line and got a visa without any hassles (my parents had gotten theirs in the U.S.). I was unable to ride with the tour group because the Cambodian guide said there wasn't any room so I grabbed a taxi and headed to their hotel. I was going to try to stay at the same hotel my parents are at, but it's way to expensive - US$ 100 a night! After making plans to meet them tomorrow night I walked a hundred meters down the road and found a dingey room for $3 a night. After setting up the mosquito net I had a snack and a beer at the guesthouse restaurant while reading up on Angkor Wat. Back in my room I found out not only is it dingey, but infested with large cockroaches - maybe I should have spent the money... Spent a couple hours doing some sewing - repair work, then headed to be relatively early - I want an early start at the temple of Angkor Wat tomorrow!

October
18
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Via The Bayon, Angkor; Ta Prohm, Angkor; Ta Keo, Angkor; and Angkor Wat, Angkor Found In: Photo: Ruins and tree, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Tree and Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Tree and Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Mossy ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Tree and Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Ruins, Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Looking down from top of Ta Keo, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Looking across moat to Angkor Wat, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Looking across moat to Angkor Wat, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 212-353 Photo: Wall reliefs, Angkor Wat: "Churning the Sea of Milk", Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 807-441 Photo: Wall reliefs, Angkor Wat: "Churning the Sea of Milk", Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 807-441 Photo: Entrance pool and building, Angkor Wat, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 807-441 Photo: Looking down at main entrance, Angkor Wat, Angkor, Cambodia
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 807-441 Entry: I got up at 6:30 and had a quick breakfast and then set out to look for a car. While I was out I found someplace that would break a hundred dollar bill, so I have smaller money now - I was a bit worried about having to change that much money as it would be hard to spend. I headed back to my guest house and hired a moto (scooter and driver) - there's just me, and it's a lot cheaper than a car anyway. Entry: I started my explorations at the ancient city of Angkor Thom. It was a great ride out there. We passed numerous ruins including the famous (and incredible) Angkor Wat reflecting in the still waters of its huge moat. The road enters the city through the original southern gate. Here's where I got my first taste of what was to come. Leading up to the gate is a giant stone bridge whose railing is made of dozens (hundreds?) of statues of gods holding a giant snake. The gate itself is a huge conical structure with giant faces looking out in the four cardinal directions - very compelling I almost strained my neck trying to keep it in site after we passed through it. Entry: In Angkor Thom the first place I got to explore was the incredible Bayon. It's a huge three tired pyramid like structure. It's most striking feature is the fifty-four towers arranged over the top of the structure. On each of the towers there are - again - four giant faces eerily staring down at you. There were also what seems like miles of vaulted passages and rooms to explore. On the outer walls there are over 1,200 meters of carved bas reliefs depicting more that 11,000 figures (from the guide book). All in all incredible! The best part was due to my early start I had the place to myself when I first got there. About an hour after I arrived the tour busses started to roll in. It was still big enough that you could avoid the mobs, but I still felt that it was time to go. Entry: The next stop was at the nearby Baphuon, also in Angkor Thom. I walked around the giant pyramidal Baphuon but the structure itself is closed for restoration (looks like a big job). I wandered next door through the Royal Palace (that's what all the locals called it, it's not even in my guide book), which was nice mostly due to the peace and quiet (ignoring the venders which were particularly blood thirsty here - I don't think the officials bother with clearing out this section yet). In front of the Royal Palace I passed through a small temple and gate out on to the Terrace of Elephants a 350 meter long platform covered in carvings (lots of which are elephants). Next to the Terrace of Elephants was the Terrace of the Leper King, a smaller platform whose sides are densely covered with carved dancing women. I also wandered through some huge nearby temples that aren't even on my map - there is just so much here! Entry: Then we left Angkor Thom through the east gate (more faces and another stone bridge) following the road to Ta Prohm. Ta Prohm is a huge, one of the largest structures in Angkor, twelfth century Buddhist temple. What's really interesting about it is that it's been left just the way it was when it was discovered over a hundred years ago. It's falling down, there are giant tree roots cascading over and through many of the structures, and it's possible to scramble almost anywhere you can. It's dirty, mossy, infested with spiders, insects, and bats. It gave me goose pimples to climb over piles of rubble and easily imagine what it would have been like to have discovered it in the jungle. It satisfied all my lost city fantasies and was beautiful as well. After a couple of hours I was on my way out and ran in to my parents group. They seemed pretty excited about what they'd seen so far - they'd just come from the Bayon. Entry: I was feeling a little overwhelmed so I took a break for lunch. I ate at one of the local stands set up - a big plate of delicious fried rice. Then it was back towards Ankgor Thom to Ta Keoinded me of some of the Myan pyramids of southern Mexico - a steeply stepped pyramid with square structures on top. I sat at the top for a while and tried to enjoy the meager wind and just watch the world go by down below. From Ta Keo we drove back through Angkor Thom to the magnificent Angkor Wat. Entry: Angkor Wat is the largest religious structure in the world. All I can say is wow! It's sublime, beautiful, graceful, and mysterious. Did I mention huge? The moat encloses nearly a square mile! There are again three levels. The outer wall of the first level is completely covered with incredibly detailed bas relief carvings depicting legends. Each level consists of a square ringed by a complex circuit of inter-winding galleries and corridors. The third level in crowned by four corner towers and a hundred plus foot central tower - all intricately carved. I spent two hours wandering around - from the way my legs feel mostly going up and down stairs. On my way out I met my parents again. They were coming in to watch the sunset. I wanted to go up a nearby hill and watch the sun set behind Angkor Wat so we made arrangements to meet for dinner again and I headed off. Entry: About half way across the moat bridge I heard rain and could see it on the water and the bridge behind me but it was approaching at the same speed I was walking so I was just ahead of it until I hit the end of the bridge. It started to pour. I decided against climbing the hill (there wasn't going to be a sunset now) and headed back for Siem Reap. The rain got even heavier and we stopped to take cover under a sagging roof for a half hour until the rain lightened a little. When I finally got back to the guesthouse I was soaked. I took a shower and laid down to work on my journal but there was a power failure so I fell asleep. I woke up after a half hour and realized I was going to be late to meet my parents. I ended up being twenty minutes late but then we just sat around the room for an hour anyway. We took a tuk-tuk to a recommended restaurant (by both of our guide books). Dinner was fantastic - curry served inside a coconut shell. We tried to make plans for tomorrow, but the logistics were complicated (they have to fly our in the afternoon and getting their luggage could be tricky), and with the weather unknown it seemed risky to commit to going to the ruins together. So in the end we just agreed to meet back in Bangkok the day after tomorrow.

October
19
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Found In: Entry: I didn't wake up until eight. Between a lack of motivation and the late hour I decided to not go to the ruins today - I can always go tomorrow morning. I spent the morning working on my journal and writing email. At noon I walked down to my parents hotel to try to catch lunch with them before they left. I walked in just as they were checking out - I had misunderstood their schedule lunch is going to be later for them - and got to see them for a few minutes before the bus whisked them off. I had lunch at my guesthouse and them walked into town. Spent the afternoon in town. After the longish walk I tried to find an internet cafe - I found three, but all three were offline - I think there might be a problem with the provider. To waste some time I explored the market - not too exciting, all the worse parts of a market - it seemed to be all meat market and tourist crap. On my way back I tried another internet place - it too was offline. I decided to stop have a big dinner and then walked back. Spent the evening writing more email and reading. Since I'm leaving tomorrow I sat down and settled the bill with the manager. To finish off the evening I walked up to the road and had a few beers at the nearest bar shack. Back in the room I read.

October
20
Bangkok, Thailand
From Siem Reap, Cambodia Found In: Entry: I woke up at 6:30 to consider going out to Banteay Srei. It's supposed to be one of the most beautiful of the temples, but it's way out there. I looked outside and it was drizzling - not raining hard, but more weather than I want to face for a two hour ride on the back of a motorbike... I went back to bed. When I got up later the weather had improved and there was even some blue skies. I spent the morning writing in my journal and packing. Then I caught a motorcycle into town and wandered around the market for a couple hours. The only think I really looked at were black market CDs, DVDs, and CD-ROMs - but I didn't buy anything (though the entire collection of all 17 James Bond movies on DVD for $35 was awfully tempting). Entry: The taxi to the airport, flight, immigration, customs and taxi from the airport all went smoothly. In Bangkok I checked into the same guesthouse and went next door to check and send email. I left with an hour to get across town to my parents hotel (down past Siam Square). I knew traffic might be mad so I planned on taking a taxi to the sky train, and going the rest of the way on the elevated train system. Great plan, except it took an hour to go the 4 kilometers (2.4 miles) to the train stop! The next five kilometers only took fifteen minutes. So I got to the hotel fifteen minutes late - I thought, but it turned out I had agreed to be there a half hour earlier so I was 45 minutes late. Oops. I had dinner with my parents' tour group. It was an great buffet - excellent since I really hadn't eaten (except for the airplane snack). After dinner my parents and I took the skytrain a few stops to Starbucks for coffee and made plans to meet tomorrow afternoon after their tours.

October
21
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Entry: It was so hot last night that sleep was impossible - I watched the clock roll over until after 5:30. Then I kept waking up to do battle with bugs. At 8:30 I gave up and got out of bed. First thing was to change rooms. Spent the morning doing laundry, having a leisurely breakfast, on the Internet, and trying to come up with my travel plans for down south. I walked down Thanon Samsen, to Kao San dropping off the rolls of film from Angkor Wat on the way. I wandered up and down the shopping street a couple times - it was quieter than usual. I bought a lighter (more of a mini-blowtorch), and some books (a Tom Robbins, a John Grisham, and the third Harry Potter book). In the afternoon I took a taxi to Siam Square. I was supposed to meet my parents at 4:00, but due to their tour they were 45 minutes late. We decided to go up to the weekend market even though it closes at six. We took the sky train so at least traffic wasn't a worry. Entry: The market is big. Nothing too exciting, but it is really big. We wandered around the market for one and a half hours mostly looking at the crafts stalls though we also ended up in the aquarium section - they have a section for everything. We took a sky train and taxi back to my guesthouse for margaritas and dinner. They took a taxi home and I jumped on the internet again. I really didn't want a repeat of last night's sleep fiasco so I sat up and talked and had a couple more beers.

October
22
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Weather: Rain Entry: When I woke up it was very dark gray and rainy out so I went back to sleep. When I woke up again I'd missed check out so I decided to leave for Phuket tomorrow. It was still pouring rain so I walked next door and bought a flight for tomorrow afternoon then sat down at the internet cafe. The storm was frightening - the lightning was hitting so close that it would set my ears ringing and you could smell the ozone. I was concerned about the computers being on, but the manager doesn't seem concerned. After a few hours the rain lightened a bit and decided to head down to Siam Square to see a movie. I tried three theaters with a total of more than 20 screen and couldn't find anything I wanted to see - everything looks like bad slasher movies. Ended up having dinner then heading back to the guesthouse. I tried to take a nap, but then read instead. At midnight I went down for one beer and ended up sitting around talking with some of the other travelers. Five beers later it's five thirty in the morning and my alarm is going to go off in four hours.

October
23
Phuket Town, Thailand
From Bangkok Found In: Entry: I woke up when someone banged on my door at 11:45. Check out was at ten and I'd planned on being on my way to the airport by then. Somehow I'd slept right through my alarm - this was a first for me as I have the worlds most obnoxious alarm. I apparently drank a lot more that I thought last night as I was not feeling good. I quickly packed, showered, and paid my bill and by 12:45 I was in a taxi on my way to the airport. I shared the taxi with someone else so at least it was cheap. I got to the airport at 1:30 with only a half hour until my flight and I couldn't find the desk that I was supposed to check in to. Then I realized there is another terminal for domestic flights. I was told it was a kilometer down the road so I tried to get a taxi but I couldn't make the driver understand so I gave up and hiked. By the time I got to the desk I only had ten minutes until departure. I asked the clerk if there was any room on a later flight, but she told me all the seven later flights were full, there was nothing available until tomorrow evening. But then she asked if I still wanted to go on my scheduled flight - this is less than ten minutes before departure! Entry: Amazingly I made the flight. The flight was not exciting and I was still not feeling well. I didn't really feel hungover - more achy and feverish. From the Phuket airport I took a shuttle bus into Phuket Town. Phuket Town is in the middle of the island, away from the beaches, but I have a recommendation of some place to stay and I really don't want to deal with searching. At the hotel I went straight to sleep. After a five hour nap I got up and had a great dinner. I felt a little better, but still way under normal. I went back to bed but then discovered the other joy from last night - many, many, many bites of some kind and they'd really started to itch. After an hour of trying not to scratch I finally fell asleep.

October
24
Phuket Town, Thailand
Found In: Weather: Rain / Overcast / Rain Entry: Woke up pretty early but the torrential rains kept me inside until nearly eleven. Walked around town a little then had lunch and caught a bus to Patong - the most developed resort area on the island. Patong was a bit strange it felt a lot like Cairns, almost not at all like Thailand. Entry: I spent the afternoon evening wandering around shopping for a live aboard dive trip to the Similan Islands (up north, near the border of Burma). There aren't that many options as most of the charters don't start running until next month. Plus I've been thinking I have nearly two weeks to get back to Bangkok, while when I sat down and looked at the calendar it's really just one week, so I need to find a 3 / 4 / 5 day trip leaving in the next couple days. There were several options, so since I didn't really have any recommendations I went with the longest one for the least amount of money per day. After finally booking the trip I found a travel agent and purchased a flight back to Bangkok for the 30th. That will give me a couple days to shop and hang out before I fly to Tokyo. While doing all that walking I also did some shopping - and bought sixteen CDs! Can't beat under $3 each. Entry: I had dinner then started waiting for the bus. I really wasn't sure where to catch it, so I waited on the street where I thought I'd seen it go by earlier. After waiting 45 minutes I decided that it must not run at night, so I hired one of the golf-cart like taxis to take me back to Phuket Town.

October
25
Tuplamu, Thailand
From Phuket Town via Patong, Phuket Found In: Entry: Slept in then spent the morning packing and at the internet. At noon I was back to checkout and get picked up by the dive shop. The dive shop gave me a ride into Patong where I had until five to entertain myself. I'd been planning on going to a reasonably nice restaurant and hanging out all afternoon reading, but there is no power in the town so almost everyplace is closed. Finally ended up having lunch at the same place I went to dinner last night. After lunch I did a couple more laps around the town then hung out on the beach - today is the closest I've seen to beach weather since arriving in Thailand. Entry: At five went back to the dive shop and waited a half hour for the charter car to pick us up (there were two Swedes and an Australian there as well). Then it was off to another dive shop to fill out the same paperwork again and wait some more. Then we were off to where the boat was moored and hour and a half drive north up the coast. As it got dark the sunset was spectacular, and for the first time since I arrived in Thailand I started to feel cold. Entry: At the boat we were served dinner and told we'd have to wait another two hours for the other two divers. It wasn't a problem since it's only a four hour cruise out to the islands. The boat is quite massive and there are only six of us (it normally takes 18) so we each get a cabin to ourselves. As we were all sitting up in the "theater" (a covered deck with a nice television and audio system) watching a video it started to dump rain and blow some - there went our hopes for a smooth ride out. The other two finally made it - a Chinese couple from Hong Kong. At with Con-Air on the TV we headed out to sea. The ride was rough and after the movie I opted to try and sleep since it was too rough to watch TV or read. I laid awake in my cabin until we got to the islands sometime around three then drifted off.

October
26
Beacon Beach, Koh Similan, Thailand
From Tuplamu Found In: Entry: I got woken up at seven for a cup of coffee before starting the dives. The first dive was really nice. Maybe it was just getting in the water again after doing so much diving for a month then abruptly stopping. The highlights included two hawksbill turtles and a giant eel (at least ten feet long). It was also the first time I've ever heard rain under the water - it was an amazing sound. Entry: When we got out from the dive there was a huge breakfast waiting for us - I could get used to this lifestyle! I spent the three hour surface interval working on my log book, talking, and reading. The second dive was also very nice - but some of my co-divers are really bugging me. To start with both the Swedish guys have every dive gadget ever invented so it takes them ten minutes longer to suit up and they wouldn't even start until everyone else is almost done. Right at the start of the dive I had just noticed there's was a lot of damaged coral around and then I watched one of the Swedish guys knock over a big table coral - he was standing on it! When I tried to get him to put more air in his BCD so he wouldn't be on the coral he looked at me like I was an idiot. Then we saw a large turtle and the divemaster led us around to the side so we could approach it quietly in a non-threatening way - the two Swedes just swam straight at it and when it tried to get away one of them grabbed and hung on! Later when I tried to suggest he shouldn't molest the turtles he said that they like it and he once saw on TV divers holding on to big turtles and being towed around!?! I also saw a smaller turtle (luckily a quick one as well). And there were tons of different kinds of trigger fish - including some really beautifully colored Red Tooth Triggers. When we were doing the safety stop it started to rain very hard - the sound was incredible, but even cooler was the surface from underneath while the rain was splashing in to it - it looked incredible! Entry: When we got out we had a huge lunch waiting for us. The weather cleared up a little but it was still overcast and I was too annoyed with the others to talk, so I spent the surface interval reading. Dive three wasn't so great. Lots of damaged coral. The highlights included a nudie brach, a couple of cowries, and a few garden eels (nothing like the eel gardens in Dahab!) In the evening the sun came out! I spent the evening reading, eating another huge meal (I am getting used to this), and talking. Entry: I decided to go on the night dive even though I normally don't like night dives. I felt like I was getting a cold so I wanted to get as many dives in as possible in case I can't dive the last day or two. The dive was a waste of time. To me the only reason to dive at night it that it's dark. Well we dove right under the boat with it's huge spotlights pointing down in to the water, plus one of the Swedes had a giant underwater laser cannon - that he'd use to blind me as often as he could. It was really a shame because when I got in the shadow of the boat away from everyone I could see that the phosphorescence in the water would be really bright. I got out of the water wondering why I bothered and decided I'd skip the rest of the night dives.

October
27
Beacon Beach, Koh Similan, Thailand
Found In: Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Partial Sun Entry: I woke up with a definite cold, but since I could still clear my ears so I decided I could dive. The first dive was pretty good, but I've gotten too used to the divemasters' behavior in Dahab - here it's a different story. The DM here fed a large moray eel that had obviously been tamed. He also grabbed several fish to hold them so that we could look at them - at least one was so traumatized it just floated on its side when he let go of it. We also saw a pretty big hawksbill turtle that got away when the Chinese couple tried to grab it. I found that if I swam at the front I could relax a lot easier since I couldn't see what was going on behind me. The highlight of the dive for me was a two foot sea snake. It was black and white banded and, I was told, is very poisonous - it's the first sea snake I've ever seen. Entry: After the dive I felt very stuffy, just tired and out of it. We had a huge breakfast and then sat around reading and enjoying the sun. I was feeling somewhat better when it was time to suit up for the second dive and I was worried that my cold might get worse so I decided to take advantage of being able to dive right now. There wasn't anything too exciting about this dive. There was very little coral, rather it was among a tumble of rocks - it reminded me a lot of the dives in Lake Malawi. I really didn't enjoy the dive I was having major problems with my ears and sinuses and suffered a few attacks of vertigo. Even after the dive I continued to feel very stuffed up and a little ill. Entry: After the second dive I caught a ride in to the beach on Koh Miang (Island #4) for an hour. There was perfect white powdery sand, intense blue-green crystal water, dense green jungle, and deserted! There were actually other people around off my dive charter and another boat, but I picked a nice little cove off to the side and had it all to myself - heaven. After an hour the runabout picked me up - perfect timing as even before we got back to the boat it had started to rain. Entry: After the beach I felt a lot better, but still way under perfect so I decide to take rest of day off from diving. While the others went under I lounged about and read. When they got back it didn't sound like I missed much anyway. When the rain stopped we had a nice sunset - or at least the reflection of one in the clouds - the island blocks the sunset itself. Our dinner was fantastic - hot and sweet beef, tempura shrimp, stir-fried veggies, and some kind of soup. No one ended up going on the night dive. Instead we sat around and watched the video of Mr. Magoo and then went to bed before nine.

October
28
Koh Miang, Thailand
From Beacon Beach, Koh Similan Found In: Weather: Overcast / Partial Sun / Rain Entry: In the morning I decided to dive even though I still wasn't feeling one hundred percent - I was at least feeling better than yesterday. The first dive was at Beacon Beach South - just south of where we did our very first dive in the Similans. The dive was good. I didn't see that much that was great, but I just felt like I was one with the water - a definite improvement over yesterday when I felt like my head was going to explode! The highlight of the dive was about six blue spotted sting rays. Entry: After the dive the customary huge breakfast was waiting for us. After breakfast I spent the morning lounging and reading. The second dive also went very well. It was at Elephant Head Rock, off of Koh Miang (Island #4). The highlight of the dive was definitely the sharks - we saw three. There was a black tip and two white tips and they were all very small the biggest was the black tip and he was three feet at most, while the smallest was about one foot long. Still pretty exciting as they're the only sharks that have been seen on this trip. Entry: Lunch was a little disappointing. It was waiting for us when we got out of the dive, and it was good, but it was a less selection than what we've been getting (it was just a couple sausages, some rice pilaf, and watermelon). After lunch it was a little sunny so I lounged around in the sun while the others watched Face Off. When it clouded over and started to rain a little I went and watched the end of the movie. The third dive was alright. I'm still feeling a lot of pressure in my head on accent and I think that three dives a day might be pushing it at least until I'm over my cold. The dive was at Fan Fare Point on Koh Paya (Island #7). Didn't see much that was that great. A few big Moray eels, and lots of fan coral was about it. Entry: Dinner was great. Squid and baby octopus is spicy coconut sauce, cashews and chicken, spicy string beans, and tofu stir-fry - all was delicious. I skipped the night dive because I feel like I need a break, and besides I think night dives are way over rated (especially on this boat with all the light - I watched from the boat). After the others get back from the dive we watched the video of Mission Impossible. Then I went to bed exhausted.

October
29
Patong, Phuket, Thailand
From Koh Miang via Tuplamu Found In: Entry: For some reason I got up before everyone else. I sat on the upper deck and watched the crew come to life and get the boat ready for departure. Even underneath the thick clouds the island's beaches looked so inviting. I was feeling so much better than yesterday - I was really looking forward to the first dive. Entry: The dive was very nice. I'm getting sick of nice dives, I want to see something spectacular. The first dive was at Shark Fin Reef on Koh Payan (Island #3). While I didn't see any shark parts, or for that matter a reef, I did see a lot of eels and a blue spotted sting ray. However, the higlights were definitely the octopus and the turtle. Everyone packed around to get a glimpse of the octopus' eye as he cowered in his hole. I sat back and waited for everyone else to loose interest. Sure enough as soon as everyone else continued on the octopus came out to have a look. I am always so amazed at how quickly the color and even texture of their skin can chance - it's truly amazing! While I was comuning with the octopus the others were chasing a poor green turtle. Good for me as when he made his escape he flew right past me and when he realized he wasn't being chased anymore he even hung out for a few minutes - very nice. Entry: After the dive breakfast was waiting as usual. Today was pineapple pancakes with honey - I am definitely getting used to this lifestyle. After breakfast lounged around reading and watching the rain until it was time for the second dive. The second dive was the Coral Gardens on Koh Huyong (Island #1). Given the name I found the coral very disappointing. In fact it wasn't a very exciting dive at all and was kind of a bummer way to finnish of the trip. The highlight was a giant stonefish, and the usual moray eels. After the dive the boat headed for shore. As we were leaving it looked like a storm was heading in so the captain decided to head for Tuplamu, the nearby port we left for instead of heading all the way back to Patong. After a huge lunch I was so tired I could hardly keep my eyes open, so I didn't. I dozed on the deck for almost two hours. After waking up I finnished up on my dive log, worked on my journal, and wrote email. From Tuplamu we all crammed into and A/C van to Patong - it's suposed to be nicer than the open pickup truck we cam in - but I would have prefered the fresh air. Entry: In Patong we all made plans to meet later at a questionable bar - famous for it's transvestites. I decided I was down to my last few days on the road and I wasn't going to risk anymore nights being eaten so I splurged for a nice place. the hotel was nice even by western standards, and while it may have cost me more than three times more than my last room it was still under $14. I went to the internet cafe and waded through 70 email messages - the vast majority junk mail - then had dinner and returned to my air-conditioned room to take advantage of a hot shower. I met up with the two Swedes - one of them had hired a Thai girlfriend - and walked with them to the bar. It wasn't really a bar it was a large square sourounded by small bars. In the square there was a small stage and many tables. On stage the women were dancing and varried from stunningly beautiful to not - and they all used to be men. Very scary - lots of them were completely undetectable. I was seriously embarassed - much to the amusment of the others - when one of them who was cruising give me a kiss leaving a huge red lip print on my cheek. At least it was one of the pretty ones... Other amusment was they were filming an action movie at the next table over - some big actor from Hong Kong that Pheebe and Ben recognized. The director kept threatening to by us drinks, but he never did. Around three the others headed to a disco and I joined a neighboring table full of Canadian guys to protect myself from the cruisers while finishing my beer.

October
30
Bangkok, Thailand
From Patong, Phuket Found In: Entry: Slept in then took a nice long hot shower. Caught a taxi to the airport (by this time I didn't have enough time to try a bus. At the airport bought a book by a local author and then boarded the plane. In Bangkok I took a taxi to the Shanti Lodge - same place I've stayed before. When checking in I noticed that Stacy is here - back from Indonesia. Spent a half hour on the internet then sat down to a very early diner. Stacy walked by a little later and we traded dive stories for a couple hours. I tried to call my parents as they should be in Bangkok, but was unable to get hold of them - I tried to leave a message, but I'm not sure I was successful. Around seven I went with Stacy to a book store down town (taxi then sky train). Since we were so near my parents hotel I tried to call them again, but failed again. I was getting hungry again so we had a later dinner at Pizza Hut (what a waste of stomach space in Thailand, but there wasn't a lot else open that late).

October
31
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Entry: In the morning I was getting my laundry together when I realized I didn't need to do all of it - in a matter of days I'll be home! Some of the clothed were retired, some left dirty, and some were turned in to be washed. The rain has caused the road to be flooded, so instead of venturing out I hit the internet cafe. Then I called the US and talked to Amy (she is going to pick me up) and Wolf (he is going to let me borrow my car). The water on the streets had lowered by then so I went with Stacy and caught a river boat down to the Grand Palace. Entry: We walked the wrong way around the palace so it took us a half hour to get to the entrance - it's a big complex! The palace grounds are mostly temples and old royal halls. There's tons to see and everything is covered in brightly colored tiles or gold gilt - it would be blinding on a sunny day - but there are also tons of people and it's a little claustrophobic for me. The main temple here is the temple of the Emerald Buddha - which is spectacular from the outside, but a little disappointing on the inside. The Buddha is actually very small and very far away. For me the highlight was the support figures at the base of two pagodas on the upper terrace. They're Hindu gods (I think) tiled with mirrored tiles - maybe a little gaudy but still impressive. Entry: We explored the market streets near the palace complex - mostly spices and vegetables. Eventually we got to our goal - a viewpoint across the river from the huge Wat Arun (The Temple of the Dawn). It's big, and flashy, but not that impressive after the Grand Palace. We caught a taxi up to Khao San Road and spent the next couple hours exploring and shopping. I bought a nice Jenga game and a very cool noisemaker. They were setting up for some kind of Halloween festival so we went to find dinner so we could come back and see what was going on. We searched for a Lonely Planet recommended restaurant - someplace with air-conditioning that we think will be quiet, but it turns out to be an expensive, way too loud bar. So we wandered down the street looking for food, and ended up at Mc Donalds. We only went in for a coke and to look at the guide book, but you can't compete with the air-conditioning and the quiet. Entry: We got lost trying to get back to Khao San Road - but at least it was interesting - lots of real life and not so many foreigners. Back at Khao San the Halloween party was out of control. They were doing a beer chugging contest on the stage - I felt like I was at Spring Break in Fort Lauderdale. There were way too many people for me and I got very tense and had to make a run for it after less than 30 minutes. Entry: Took a taxi back to the lodge. Finished off talking politics and reminiscing with another Seattle-ite.

November, 2000

November
1
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Photo: The reclining Buddha of Wat Pho, Bangkok, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 807-441 Photo: The reclining Buddha of Wat Pho, Bangkok, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 807-441 Photo: The reclining Buddha's toes (Wat Pho), Bangkok, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 807-441 Photo: Detail of the reclining Buddha's feet (Wat Pho), Bangkok, Thailand
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 807-441 Entry: I woke up and spent an hour getting all packed so I could leave my bag at the lodge and go exploring before heading to the airport at midnight. Just before checking out I checked my ticket and found out I'm not leaving at two AM, my flight isn't until after six. So I decided to keep my room today so that I can get some sleep tonight. I went and hit the internet cafe and then dropped off a roll of film on my way into town. I spent a few hours shopping and wandering around Khao San Road - it's amazing how quickly they've cleaned up from the festival last night - the stage is completely gone. I met up with Stacy a couple hours later and we did a final pass down Khao San before heading for the sites. Entry: It being a sunny day today we went back to the Grand Palace to snap a few pictures of the vividly colored domes from the outside (we didn't want to pay to go in again). Unfortunately we got there at three thirty - closing time - and they wouldn't even let us in the gates, so no photos. Instead we hiked around the palace gates to Wat Pho - the temple of the reclining Buddha. It's a fantastic complex of temples - in some ways even more ostentatious than the Grand Palace. The Buddha image itself is a hundred fifty feet long! That's a very big Buddha. Entry: After exploring the complex we decided to head downtown to the bookstores again - I still want to find a Tokyo guidebook and Stacy wants some oceanography texts. Just for fun we decided to be adventuresome and try a new route. We caught the river boat south to the southern skytrain terminus. Not only did we make it (somewhat amazing) but it was a perfect day for a river cruise. It was sunny and the temple of the dawn sparkled. I decided to drop by the hotel my parents were supposed to be staying at since they hadn't called me back and I wasn't sure the reception was understanding me and even getting my message to them. Stacy decided to come with me since I figured they'd possible already left anyway. A quick skytrain ride got us to the Asok station and when we walked in to the lobby the problem of communicating with the receptionist disappeared - there was my dad in the lobby. We went up the the room and exchanged stories for an hour until they had to go to dinner. Stacy and I hit the bookstores. I gave up on a Tokyo book and bought an all Japan guide book - at least I won't be arriving in Tokyo completely unprepared. Entry: Then it was a rush back towards the lodge to get my film before the store closed. I had dinner with Stacy at the Shanti then we got very adventurous and decided to hit Pat Pong - Bangkok's most notorious red light district. We caught a taxi there. I don't know what I was expecting, I guess something very sleazy, but it definitely wasn't the Starbucks that we got dropped off at! It looks like the area's been severely gentrified. We had coffee then decided to explore the night street market. A few steps down one of the soi's and the sleaze factor rose dramatically. In front of every door is two or three people with a "menu" of what the show inside will show you... We didn't go inside anywhere and what at first sounded so shocking quickly became boring in it's repetition. We wandered through the shops for another hour and I even bought a case for my phone. It was getting late and the stalls were starting to pack up so we had a beer then decided that we should go into one of the shows before heading home. We went in to one place with no cover and ordered a slightly expensive beer - it was a little surreal. There were naked women walking around the bar. There were only two other customers in the place - two older white men. One was quite obviously fingering a woman who was draped across his lap, the other guy was almost hidden behind five women who were covering him. On stage there were two sleepy women dancing. A couple women (naked) came up to us and tried to convince us to do something - I'm sure it was hire them, but their English was nearly as bad as my Thai. As we finished the beer the show changed and a woman came out and used a special blowgun to shoot darts at balloons - we left. The bar was depressing, but as we left several of the women smiled and thanked us for coming - the Thai hospitality even there. Somehow the smiles seemed genuine an the sinister-ness of the places faded a bit. We decided that there had to be more to Pat Pong so we tried another bar with no cover charge and 100 Baht beers. As soon as we got our beers they came over with a bill for three hundred each - for the show and a beer. I asked what happened to the 100 B beers and was told the second beer on would be cheaper. We insisted that we were only paying 100 each and they told us to leave. I said after we finished our beer. This place was a lot more prosperous and was nearly full, but it also seemed more oppressive. There were the girls on stage, and there were the bouncers. While we drank our beers we watched women blow out candles and drop Ping-Pong balls into cups. It was even more depressing than the first place - I think it felt as if the women in the first place were more in control. Either way it was not erotic or amazing, it was sad. Entry: We took a taxi back to Shanti and I got home just in time to pack, shower, say goodbye to Stacy and the people at the Shanti and catch my 3:30 taxi to the airport. The taxi was clearly on it's last legs. We never broke 40 kilometers an hour (~25 mph), but there was no traffic, and eventually we got there. In line for the flight I ran into four or five of my parents tour-mates. The security was way more intense than I expected - we queued three times and at each stop were asked the usual security questions and the tickets were scrutinized (originals and the boarding pass). On the flight I was seated on the isle at the bulkhead so I had more leg room - good thing because I think these are the smallest airplane seats I've ever seen. Next to me was a mother with her very loud two year old - doesn't look like I'm going to get much sleep.

November
2
Tokyo, Japan
From Bangkok, Thailand Found In: Route: Northwestern Flight 2: Bangkok - Tokyo (Narita) Airport; Keisei Line Train: Airport - Niipori (Tokyo); JR Yamanote Line Train: Niipori - Ueno (Tokyo) Lodging: Hotel Pine Hill Weather: Rain Entry: Despite being one seat over from a very loud and unhappy two year old and having a whiney American senior citizen in the seat behind me (I wouldn't have believed it was possible to bitch about the size of the seats for six hours non-stop) I managed to sleep for almost three hours which was better than I had expected. The airport was lovely, very big, but not overwhelming and it felt very efficient. I was so tired I didn't think I could manage the youth hostel, so I got a bottom of the line business hotel from the hotel desk at the airport. Then I changed my Thai Bot and got some additional yen from an ATM, and set off to discover the Tokyo Metropolitan rail system. Entry: Completely to my amazement I had no trouble getting to my hotel (two hours, two trains, and a several block walk). It's been raining the entire time, and by the time I check in at the hotel it's starting to get dark. I'd been hoping to take the Tokyo circle (Yamanote) line to get my orientation around the various districts of Tokyo, but since it's dark there doesn't seem to be much point. Then I was going to go explore the electronics shopping streets in Akihabara (the next suburb over) but I read in the guide book that the stores were to close in an hour. So I ended up relaxing for a half hour then venturing out and exploring the modern shopping streets and traditional markets of Ueno (the district I'm staying in). I was going to try a random restaurant, but I ended up chickening out and just had some local fast food. Back at the hotel I tried to work on my journal, but I was too tired so instead I took advantage of the bath in my room (it's a Japanese style bath - very deep but square, so you sit up in it) and then went to bed. Entry: This place feels like Bangkok in a lot of ways - same energy and bustle, but it feels civilized and somehow tamed. And of course it's about ten times more expensive (my dinner was $12, my hotel nearly $80!) Keep reminding myself it's only for a couple days.

November
3
Tokyo, Japan
Found In: Lodging: Hotel Pine Hill Entry: Slept for more than ten hours! When I did get up I decided to go into Akihabara to look at the electronics. It's only one stop on the JR Yamanote line, the railway line that circles Tokyo, so I decided to go the long way around. That way I could do a little sightseeing. The train ride took a little over an hour and wasn't very exciting. I think Tokyo needs to be experienced from the street. Entry: I'd planed on spending an hour or two exploring the giant electronics area of Tokyo - well nearly seven hours later I'd really only explored a small handful of stores. The prices aren't that amazing (except for mobile phones which can be had for under $1 - but they only work in Japan) but the selection is incredible. I spent a lot of time playing with digital cameras - and convinced myself to buy one until I realized that on my way home is not the time, maybe on my way out next time. Also took a serious look at MiniDisc players, but I'm not sure I can justify replacing mine - which still works despite the display being broken. Entry: After grabbing a bite and catching the train back to Ueno (where my hotel is) I decided to explore until I found a place to have a beer. Walking up and down the streets I was reminded of what I'd discovered on a previous trip to Japan - the back streets are the most fascinating. I went by lots of closed market stalls, strange clubs guarded by big guys in suits that could only be Yakuza, and tons of very loud pachinko parlors. After walking for an hour I found a "British" pub. I had an Asahi beer in the smoky bar and saw my first other gaijin (foreigners) of the day. Then it was back to the hotel for a another hot bath and bed.

November
4
Tokyo, Japan
Found In: Lodging: Hotel Pine Hill Entry: Didn't manage to get up at six to go see the fish market like I'd hoped... Ended up catching the train for Shinjuku sometime before noon. Two stops into the ride on the Yamanote circle line I remembered that there's a train line that cuts directly across from the station I was at (Kanda) so I got off. Somewhat to my amazement I was right and I got to Shinjuku in about ten minutes instead of the half hour planned. Entry: Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's busiest stations - more than two million people pass through each day! - and it seemed like they were all doing it while I was there. Actually I think it was a relatively quiet and it was still a madhouse - it took me a half hour just to figure out how to get out. I went to Yodobashi Camera - Tokyo's biggest camera store. I wouldn't be surprised to find out it's the largest camera store in the world - eight big floors. It was pretty amazing. I did some Christmas shopping, but just mostly wandered around - for four hours! It was getting dark when I left the store. I was almost done with my book, so I went on a quest for a book to read on the airplane. I found a bookstore with a large English section, but it was all text books except for the children's section. I ended up buying the new Harry Potter novel - for more than twice what it would have cost when I was considering it in Bangkok! Entry: I had a nice Indian dinner then wandered around Shinjuku. The neon is incredible! The red light district was strange - so civilized and proper - a huge change from Bangkok! Around eight o'clock I caught a train back to Ueno (successfully managing the short cut again!). In my room I worked on my journal and read before taking another hot bath and calling Amy to make sure I have ride home from the airport.

November
5
Piedmont, CA
From Tokyo, Japan Found In: Route: JR Yamanote Line Train: Ueno - Niipori; Keisei Line Train: Niipori - Airport; Northwestern Airways Flight 28: Tokyo - San Francisco Entry: Slept in - again. I was a bit distraught to find the weather perfect - my first nice day in Japan and I'm leaving. I spent the morning packing or reading then it was time to check out. I had the front desk call the airline and found that my flight was going to be an hour and a half late, but that might change so they were still suggesting I be there two hours earlier than the scheduled time. I decided two hours before the revised time would be plenty early. So I left my bags and went for my last chance at a real Japanese lunch - it was OK. Picked up my bags and caught the JR train to Niipori and transferred to the private Keisei line for the rest of the way to Narita Airport. Entry: At the airport I quickly checked in - no lines! I found internet access and checked my email for the first time since leaving Thailand. Basically I amused myself by sending email to people telling them I'd be back in California seven hours ago - international date line magic at its best. The flight got delayed another half hour and it was more than two hours late by the time we left. The main excitement on the flight was that I scored an emergency row seat so I have plenty of leg room and one of the attendants took pity on me and smuggled me a nice bottle of Zinfandel from first class. I should have slept well... Entry: I didn't get any sleep on the plane, so by the time we landed I was starting to drag. It took forever for the luggage to get offloaded, then I was dreading customs, but they went quite quickly - I didn't even get searched. Amy was waiting for me and we headed for the East Bay. We stopped for coffee then made it to her house for breakfast with her parents and one of her brothers. I spent the entire day struggling to stay awake so I could go to sleep at a normal time. We looked at photos (Amy's from Africa, and mine from Thailand and Cambodia) and talked.

November
6
Piedmont, CA
Found In: Entry: Nov. 6: Slept in a little, but not nearly as long as I thought I would. I called Wolf and arranged for us to meet for lunch. Amy's mom dropped us off at the Bart station and thirty minutes later we were in San Francisco. We met Wolf in his office then had a nice lunch in Buena Vista(?) Gardens. After lunch we walked around the gardens and checked out the Martin Luther king memorial. Wolf used his work ID to get us in to SFMOMA (San Francisco Museum of Modern Art) for free then went back to work. The museum was showing pieces from the Anderson collection. I'm still not a huge modern art fan, but the exhibit was really enjoyable, and much more approachable than the display I'd seen at MOMA last time (five or six years ago). Entry: Amy and I hit a few stores for half an hour then met Wolf again to take a bus back to his house in the Marina district. We hung out at his house then went out for dinner at a burrito place. We had a glass of wine back at his house then I got my car back and we headed for Amy's. Driving a car was weird, driving my Jeep and not the Patrol that I had in Australia was weirder, and driving on the right side of the road was just plain hard. We made it back across the bay bridge and through Oakland without too many problems (I may have hit the curb a couple times). Entry: Nov. 7: Amy had to work so we got an early start and I dropped her off then went for a leisurely breakfast. I spent the morning driving around the area, first looking for something interesting, and then just looking for parking. I finally ended up parking in a lot right next to the Asian Branch of the Oakland Public Library. Nothing in the library was in English, but I ducked in to see if they had internet access - and they did. I spent an hour on the computer before going to meet Amy for lunch. After lunch I spent the afternoon just walking. It was a gorgeous day - cool but sunny, but I didn't find much to see so I kept walking. After I picked up Amy from work we went up to Berkeley so she could vote and then went back to her house to have an incredible Lasagna dinner with her family. Entry: Nov. 8: Amy had to work again so after dropping her off I did a repeat on yesterday - breakfast / coffee, then a couple hours internet at the library. Amy and I met for a light lunch. After lunch I tried to find a shopping area up towards Berkley that Amy had told me about, but I couldn't find it (it turned out that it's no longer there). Instead I drove down to Jack London Square on the waterfront at the other end of Broadway. I spent the afternoon wandering around and marveling at the changes that have happened to the square in the fifteen years since I was last there. It's now a very nice tourist / shopping / entertainment complex. I ended up seeing a movie (Charlie's Angels) and then spending a couple hours in the Barnes and Noble bookstore before returning to pick up Amy. The two of us went back to Jack London Square and spent some time exploring the Cost Plus World Market - full of things I'd just seen in Thailand and things that we will see in India. For dinner we had a couple beers and a huge (and delicious) pizza at Zachary's in Berkeley.

November
9
Laguna Beach, CA
From Piedmont Found In: Entry: Spent the morning packing and removing a virus from Amy's Dad's computer (the Kak email worm). Amy had a lunch appointment with someone at UC Berkeley so I dropped her off then walked down Telegraph Road. I had pizza (again) and wandered around in the sun. It might have been sunny, but it was very cold so first thing Amy and I did was grab some coffee. We walked across the campus then back to Telegraph so that she could show me her favorite bookstore (Cody's) - this time I ended up buying some books (David Sedaris' Holidays on Ice, Mark Twain's The Innocents Abroad, and William Gibson's All Tomorrow's Parties) Entry: At a little after three Amy had a seminar to go to and I headed for my parents house. After getting a little lost trying to get on the freeway and then dealing with a little traffic I had a smooth seven hour drive down to Laguna. Good news given that I haven't done much driving on the right side of the road in a long time! I got home about 10:45 and stayed up a few hours talking with my parents, sister, and aunt and then reading.

November
10
Laguna Beach, CA
Found In: Weather: Rain / Partial Sun / Hail Entry: Nov. 10: I got up early and spent the morning on the internet doing research on phone plans. I also dug out the film I'd sent home from Tanzania - 13 rolls - however I didn't quite get around to taking it in. I had lunch with Wolf at Adolpho's (one of my favorite Mexican places) then went shopping with him to Frys. Back in Laguna I went to the Pacific Bell store and started trying to sort out the beurocratic nightmare of getting a phone (can't roam with prepaid, anything else requires a one year contract. I took some brochers and headed back home. Spent some more time on the internet, finnished installing a hard drive in my parents computer, made some decisions, and then headed back down town to get a phone number. The paperwork ended up taking way over an hour - why is it so much more difficult than anywhere else in the world? I met Wolf and his friends from San Franncisco at the Ocean Street Brewery. When they headed up to the White House I hung out for a couple beers with Greg then headed home. Entry: Nov. 11: I met Wolf and his friends, and Janet and Chris for breakfast at the Whitehouse. Spent most of the day at the beach playing volleyball and just hanign out - a fantastic afternoon! After the beach I rushed home and showered then headed out to a party at Wolf's. It was pretty mellow - dinner (BBQ and some incredible curry), hot tub / pool, pool table - and a lot of talking and catching up with old friends. When most of the others went out to a club I called it a night. Entry: Nov. 12: I helped with setting up for the celebration of my grandma's life. Well, I did the windows. The memorial was really nice - there were a lot of people that I hadn't see in a long time. There were friends of my grandma's and neighbors from when my mom was growing up. Most important it was positive and mostly happy - though I still felt sad at times. My aunt did an incredible time on a slide show of old photos and some of my grandma's paintings. Entry: Nov. 13: In the morning I walked down to the store and turned in six rolls of film to be developed (I think mostly from Malawi and Tanzania). I spent most of the day working on the computer and in the evening went up to the pool with Chris. Swimming felt great - for the first few laps - by the end of the (short) workout I was really hurting (only 2000 yards). Later, my friend Suzie called from Australia to report a siting of my car in Melbourne and to say hi. Entry: Nov. 14: Picked up the photos I'd turned in yesterday. They included photos from Australia, Sri Lanka, Egypt, Tanzania and Malawi. As usual I was a little dissappointed in them. It wasn't until I was showing them to people later that I realized some of them were really cool. In the evening Chris and I went for a run on the beach. It was one of the old lifeguard workouts - it wasn't fun - but the memories were good. On the way off the beach we even ran into the lifeguard patrol and got to talk about the old days and get caught up on the local news. Entry: Nov. 15: Spent some time on the internet trying to figure out plane rates to India. Finally decided I couldn't make a reasonable plan without a guidebook, or at least a map in front of me. Questions like how long would a train from Bombay to Goa take were completely stumping me. I looked at Amazon's and Barnes and Nobles' web sites, but couldn't find anything that I could get in the next couple days, so I set out on a mission. I drove through the nearby communities of Aliso Viejo and El Torro looking for a guidebook for India (specifically I wanted the Footprint India Handbook). At Barnes and Nobel I found a couple, but there were all out of date except the Lonely Planet which Amy already has. So for the third time in a row I left a bookstore without spending a $100 (very rare for me). Back home I checked on the web again and found out that there is a new edition of the Footprint book due out this month - hence why no one is carrying it. Entry: Spent the afternoon replacing the stereo in my car. It's gotten very flakey - it turns off so often that it was impossible to listen to. Luckily I'd sent the stereo from Australia home when I sold my car so I had a spare one to install. Ended up the day going swimming with Chris again. Once again it hurt a lot, but not quite as bad as last time. Entry: Nov. 16: Spent the morning on the comuter. In the afternoon went for a run on the beach with Chris. I also picked up 7 rolls of film that had been developed. Covering Australia, New Zealand, Sri Lanka, Egypt, Jordan, Tanzania, and Malawi. Coincendentally the same day I got my film back from Malawi I also got the package I sent from Nkhata Bay (Malawi) last August! Unfortunately one of the two chairs I had made has cracked, but I think it is fixable. Entry: Nov. 17: Spent the morning starting to dig in to the piles of stuff that my mom has crammed downstairs - mostly stuff I sent home over the last several years. It was actually a lot of fun as I rediscovered all the treasures I'd collected. Met Chris in the evening to swim (2,600 yards this time), then made some phone calls up to friends in Seattle. Entry: Nov. 18: Woke up earlier then I wanted by calls from Greg and then Chris, both making plans to meet down at the beach for a couple hours of volleyball. The beach was perfect - calm, sunny, and even warm! We ended up playing ball or hanging out for most of the day. Chris and Chanthu, Greg, Jim and Shannon, and TJ and friends showed up. Back at the house I showered, changed, and headed up to Chris and Chanthu's for pizza and movies with the same group. Somehow TJ talked me in to going with him to the White House for "one beer". Predictable, ended up being a late night. Entry: Nov. 19: Slept in. Spent some time researching flights to India. January looks like a bad time to be leaving price wise... In the afternoon spent some more time cleaning up (i.e. exploring some of the many boxes that I've sent home over the last three years). Entry: Nov. 20: Spent most of the day searching for flights to India. I finally found one that's not too expensive and also gets us a visit to Bangkok and Taipei. In the evening went swimming with Chris - it's starting to get easier, I wouldn't say it felt good, but it didn't hurt as much as it has! Entry: Nov. 21: Finnished organizing and cleaning up my room and storage. I also did some more research on flights to India - found one that leaves a little earlier - January second. In the afternoon went for a run on the beach with Chris - the running is not getting any easier. I stayed up late sorting through the last fourteen months worth of photos - all 1,500+ of them! Entry: Nov. 22: Met Chris a little after noon to swim. It was a beautfiul sunny day and I'd forgotten how nice it was to swim in the sun - but it still hurt. For old times sake afterwards we had lunch at Taco Bell. I left early to try to beat the day-before-Thanksgiving traffic - but it didn't work. It took me nearly four hours to get to Hollywood (it should have only taken one). I'd been hoping to get together with a couple friends, but by the time I got there it was too late to try and arrange anything, so I just hung out with my friednd Wendy. We went to an Ethiopian restaraunt for dinner (good, but nowhere near as good as Addis in Dar that Amy and I went in Tanzania) Entry: Nov. 23: Some unexpected traffic meant that I got home right as the rest of the family was heading out to Linda's for thanksgiving dinner (lunch?). I took a quick shower, picket up some beer, and met them there. Great meal - and I managed to get through it without completely overeating.

November
24
Piedmont, CA
From Laguna Beach Found In: Entry: I was up way to late last night (Chitty Chitty Bang Bang came on...) so I slept n way later than I'd planned. When I got up at noon I rushed around getting everything together and then set out on the drive. The drive up to Piedmont was very quick - only about six hours - the joys of no traffic. At Amy's we looked at photos then took the dog for a walk.

November
25
Santa Rosa, CA
From Piedmont Found In: Entry: In the morning Amy and I jumped in the car and headed for her Aunt and Uncle's place in Santa Rosa. They're out of town for the Thanksgiving weekend, but were kind enough to leave the guest house open for us. We found the place without too much difficulty, dropped off our stuff and changed clothes. The drive up the coast had been very gray and cold, but when we left the guest house shortly after noon the sun was out and it was starting to warm up. Entry: We visited five wineries in the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma County. In order of visitation the wineries were: Ferrari-Carano, Teldeechi, Unti, Yoakim Bridge, and Pezzi King. The first and last were large landscaped places with fancy tasting buildings where we were largely ignored due to (I'm assuming) our casual dress. The other three places were delightful boutique wineries where the people serving the wines were also the ones making the wines. I bought from those three wineries - strangely enough all I bought were Zinfandels. Entry: After the wineries closed we headed back to Santa Rosa. We had dinner at a great Mexican / Spanish restaurant then headed back to the house. Reading about / planning our India departure, the hot tub, and a bottle of red occupied the rest of the night.

November
26
Santa Rosa, CA
Found In: Entry: We tried to sleep in, but I woke up not feeling well - just yucky. I didn't really feel like wine tasting, so we went for a hike in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, but less than an hour in I decided I didn't really feel like hiking either. We ended up back in Sonoma wine tasting. At the first winery we went to (Chateau St Jean) we found out there was a special fundraiser going on. The bad news is that we had to buy a $5 glass in order to taste and that all the wineries in the area were participating so we were stuck. The good news was that the wineries had a lot more wines available for tasting. Plus, some of the wines were a lot more expensive than the usual tastings. One of the wines we tasted sold for $130 a bottle. It was nice, but not that nice! We went to three wineries: Chateau St Jean, Kunde Estate, and Kenwood. They were all very nice large wineries. At Kunde we also toured the wine caves. Entry: Back at the house we met Phil, Carolyn and Ashley (Amy's uncle, aunt, and niece)who had gotten back from their Thanksgiving trip. After a pleasant talk the five of us went out to a great dinner. After a bit more talking they went to bed and Amy and I jumped in the hot tub for one last time. I was still feeling bad and when I went to bed I even had a slight fever.

November
27
Piedmont, CA
From Santa Rosa Found In: Entry: We were very lazy and slept in late. When we did wake up I felt much better - and no fever. Spent the rest of the morning packing and cleaning up the guest house. On our way out Carolyn was home for lunch so we were able to say thanks and goodbye. Just down the hill from the house we stopped at a bakery and bought some totally decadent cinnamon rolls - neither of us were even able to come close to finishing them. After another stop for coffee, and then gas we were on our way back to the bay area. In Berkeley we stopped and did some shopping - checked out clothes at the North Face outlet, bought a mouse for Titrit (Amy's cat), etc. Then we headed back to Amy's parent's house. I called the travel agent to try to narrow down our itinerary a bit more, but he was really busy so I gave him my questions and requests, and he promised to call me back later or tomorrow. My phone's batteries had run down, and by the time I got around to going out to the car to get the charger I'd already gotten a message from the travel agent. The promotion China Airlines was having that we were reserved on had been canceled so I needed to call him. I tried to call him, but it was already to late and the office was closed. This is not looking good as all the other available flights are multiple thousands of dollars more.

November
28
Red Bluff, CA
From Piedmont Found In: Entry: In the morning we said goodbye then I dropped Amy off at her work. It's always hard to say goodbye, but this one was easier since I'll be meeting her in Seattle in a few days. I got lost trying to find the freeway so by the time I found a freeway it was I-880 and I had to fight a half hour's worth of traffic to get back where I wanted. Entry: The drive to my other friend Amy (B.)'s house was pretty quick and painless. I got there about 11:30, but the gate was locked (she lives on a private road), and my mobile phone was out of range. So I had to get back on the freeway and drive a few exits back to get a signal. Called Amy (B.) and returned with the secret combination. I called the travel agent to find out what the deal with the airline promotion is. It turn's out it looks like it's going to work. Better actually as now it's $40 cheaper and we're flying out of Katmandu instead of having to return to Delhi. Amy and I spent the afternoon on a long walk down to and along the Sacramento River with her three dogs. We were looking for the remains of an Indian village that is supposed to be in the woods, but we never found it. After are walk we hung out and talked and looked at some photos (mine and hers). After dark we went in to Red Bluff for Amy to do some shopping and then get dinner. While in town my phone actually had a signal so I was going to call Amy (V.) to let her know the good news, but with her psychic powers she called me first. We had a great Mexican dinner (and Margaritas!) then spent the rest of the night back at her house with a video.

November
29
Vancouver, WA
From Red Bluff, CA Found In: Weather: Rain / Snow / Rain Entry: I woke up several times during the night to the relaxing sound of heavy rain or hail maybe because of this I slept very well. In the morning Amy woke me up on her way to work and by 8:30 I was out of the house. Before leaving I called the CalTrans road report and found out there were no snow advisories on I-5 so I decided not to stop and get chains. The drive through northern California and into mountains was very pretty - especially the snow covered mountains. I saw some evidence on the side of the road of snow from last night, but the freeway was ice and snow free. Then I crossed into Oregon and at the next pass the rain lightened then turned to snow. I'm pretty sure it was the first time I've seen snow since January 1998 (Europe - Prague?). Luckily it didn't stick much, I just drove very carefully and in 30 minutes it was back to plain rain. Entry: I got into Portland in the middle of traffic and just couldn't be bothered to fight the masses to get off the freeway so I ended up a few miles north at a hotel in Vancouver, just over the state line in Washington. I relaxed and showered, then had a long talk with Amy on the phone. Looks like a major change of plans - we probably won't go to India together in January. I worried about what I should do (go to India on my own, go somewhere else, or go find a job?). Finally decided not to decide right now and went out for a bad Mexican dinner, and then to the new Arnold movie - the Sixth Day.

November
30
Woodinville, WA
From Vancouver Found In: End Location: Woodinville, WA Entry: Left Vancouver reasonably early (before 10) and headed up I-5 to Seattle. The drive was quick and familiar. In Bellevue I tried to do some shopping (Barnes and Noble, Circuit City, etc.) but didn't buy anything. I ended up hitting Kid Valley for a burger then getting the car's oil changed. I also made some phone calls to let people know I was in town. I was going to run some more errands (including getting a copy of my car key made) but decided to go bug Steve at Microsoft instead. I parked the car and called him to see if he was busy - he wasn't so I got out of the car and... locked my keys in! I went inside talked to and hung out with some old friends (Steve, Jeremy, and Bryan) people, then tried to find a locksmith. They all said $75-85 and two to three hours until they could get there. Steve suggested AAA, but I'm not a member and no one else around was either. So I got on their web page, joined for $49, and immediately called them with my new member number. The dispatcher commented on my just becoming a member, but an hour later there was a locksmith at my car who unlocked the door in just a few minutes. Steve and I went and got take out Teriyaki from Sapporo (an old lunch time hang out) and took it back to his place to have dinner with Michele (Steve's wife). Michele had plans so left us with Ryan (their son) and took off. We played with Ryan's toys then the three of us hit the Hot Tub and had a few beers (not Ryan). At nine thirty I headed down to the airport to pick Amy up. We somehow managed to miss each other at the gate (I think I was being shaken down by security when she walked by), so it took awhile for us to find each other. Back at the car I discovered that my passenger door (the one the locksmith opened) no longer opens from either side - annoying! Back at the house Michele had already gone to bed so Amy and I sat up with Steve talking and drinking beer until four o'clock.

December, 2000

December
1
Woodinville, WA
Found In: End Location: Woodinville, WA Entry: Dec. 1: We drove across the 520 bridge to Seattle - the view of the mountain (Rainier) was incredible! I dropped Amy off at the University of Washington for her to meet with a professor and attend a seminar. I drove around Fremont reveling in the familiarity and mourning the changes. I headed up to Wallingford to the liquor store to pick up some supplies for tonight. On the way I dropped by my friend Gail's house and left a note (well my card with my cell number on it)While I was parked I took the handle off the car door and fixed it - the passenger side door opens again. While I was in the mood I also hit a hardware store and had some spare keys made and hid one on the car. In the Wallingford Center I found a cocktail shaker for Steve and Michele - something their bar sadly lacked. I had a bite to eat at Dick's, then picked Amy up. We headed for Fremont's Trolleyman pub. Gail called as we were getting there, so she came down and met us and we hung out for a bit. Amy and I drove downtown to the Nightlight to meet Amy's friend Nicky for a beer. Nicky ended up coming back to Steve and Michele's with us for the party. The party was nice. Mellow, but lots of old work friends (many of them with new or new-ish babies), lots of beer and margaritas, and we finished up the night at four AM in the hot tub. Entry: Dec. 2: Woke up at noon feeling surprisingly good. Upstairs found Steve, Michele, Ryan, and Nicky looking like they'd just gotten up as well. I took everyone to the Woodinville Redhook brewery for lunch. Amy and I went into Seattle to hit the amusement park like REI supper store. The drive across the lake was incredible - both Rainier and Mount Baker were out in all their glory plus the Cascade and Olympic ranges - I'd truly forgotten how beautiful Seattle is. Spent a couple hours in REI and even bought a few things before heading over to Fremont. Hit Bitter Co (one of my favorite stores), then started running out of steam. Stopped at Borders bookstore, and for Mexican take out on our way back to Steve and Michele's. Spent the rest of the night with "Something About Mary" on their DVD player... Entry: Dec. 3: Amy and I predictable slept in. We got up and dropped by Tim and Amy's on our way in to Seattle. They were in, so by the time we'd had a chance to get caught up and meet their daughter Emily (almost a year old now) it was two o'clock. Grabbed a quick bite at a Tulley's, then drove across I-90 to Seattle. I took Amy to my favorite book store - Elliot Bay Books in Pioneer Square. We then tried to hit the Fremont Sunday Market, but by the time we got there they were mostly packed up. Amy and I went to the Red Door for a beer then met Nicky at the Triangle for a yummy dinner. We decided to go to the Rainbow Tavern for a beer (and to see if Tom Robbins was hanging out - he wasn't), and a quick many beers and games of pool later our early night was a late one. Entry: Dec. 4: It was kind of a sad morning. Amy had to pack. We went and had a huge lunch, then I drove her to the airport. After she boarded the plane I headed into Seattle to try and do some Christmas shopping. I ended up in the U. District, but got distracted by fixing my car's door so I didn't end up buying any gifts. I did fix the door, and get a lot of strange looks as I was tearing the door apart on University Ave. I had dinner with Deirdre (my cousin), Charlie (her husband), and Ava (their daughter). It was my first introduction to Ava and she was very cute with her rosy cheeks (she's six months old). Entry: Dec. 5: Spent the morning getting my journal updated and on the web and answering email. In Bellevue I made a optometrists appointment and had lunch. I still had several hours until I had to head out to meet Marcie, David, Allegra, and Tim for dinner so I decided to see a movie. I went down to Factoria where Unbreakable was playing at the right time. The movie was really nothing I expected but I think I liked it. The very end was a bit much though... I went out to Snoqualmie to had dinner at Allegra and Tim's house. There's a new Snoqualmie exit (and road) that wasn't there last time so I got a bit lost when I got off at the wrong exit. At the house I got to meet Alec Tim and Allegra's five month old - both Marcie and Tim got photographic evidence of me holding Alec - with out either of us looking too distressed! After Alec went to bed the rest of us had a great dinner and talked until after ten when I drove back to Steve and Michele's. Entry: Dec. 6: In the morning worked on email, my journal, and researched flights on the web. I think it might be possible to use the round-the-world fare I bought from Australia to get back to Bangkok, and from there I should be able to get to India (or ?) reasonably. I met Steve, Bryan, and a couple people from their work for lunch. After lunch Steve and I went to the Microsoft company museum and then the store. In the late afternoon I went to see the movie Bounce - definitely a chick flick, but still pretty good. After the movie I decided to head in to Seattle since I was supposed to meet friends for dinner later. I found an under-utilized Starbucks in South Seattle and sat down with a cup of coffee and read. My dinner appointment was cancelled, so I sat around reading until traffic was over then headed back to the east side. I stopped at Safeway for Chinese takeaway, then headed back to Steve and Michele's. I got home just in time to say goodnight to Ryan. Steve, Michele, and I sat around talking then watched some recorded TV. When Michele went to bed Steve and I sat up watching the DVD of Gladiator and drinking beer. After the movie we sat around talking (past, present, future, and general good and bad ideas) until four.

December
7
Redmond, WA
From Woodinville Found In: Entry: Up way to early given last nights late ending. I packed (Steve and Michele need their guest room back) and then drove into Seattle to meet Cora for lunch. We went into the International district and had a great Malaysian lunch and then checked out her new office in South Seattle - very nice. Unfortunately I had to rush back to the east side for an eye exam. The exam was expectedly icky, but the good news is that my prescription hadn't changed. While I was getting thing checked of my To Do list I went in to Charles Schwab in Bellevue to try and transferred some money so I can finish my trip. I was only partially successful as I couldn't transfer the funds to my bank, but I got web access, and was able to move funds around within my account so that I can write a check to myself tonight. I was going to do some Christmas shopping so I went to Bellevue Square - a very ritzy shopping mall that I was once thrown out of for being barefoot. I didn't get any shopping done. In fact I didn't even go in any shops. I found the whole Christmas shopping mob strangely fascinating - in a very morbid way. Entry: I had a very nice dinner with Tim, Amy, and Scott. It made me feel good that Barkley (their dog) is still totally psyched to see see me - at least someone still loves me! Their daughter, Emily, was asleep so I didn't get to play with her. Tim, Scott, and I sat up late talking business opportunities but didn't come up with anything compelling.

December
8
Seattle, WA
From Redmond Found In: Entry: I spent the day wandering around Bellevue and Redmond. I had lunch, tried to go to the bank but it was to crowded, saw another movie (Vertical Limits - very silly, but it kept me amused), a couple hours in a bookstore, and (since I didn't get a chance to do laundry) I also bought some new T-shirts. Then I went back to the bank and got my finances finished up for the next segment of my trip. After leaving the bank I realized I now had clean shirts, but was still out of clean underwear - so more shopping. I was meeting my friends Julian and Kandice on Capitol hill for dinner at seven so I decided to wait for traffic to thin out and found a coffee shop to sit and read in. At six fifteen I got on the freeway - only to find a parking lot. Apparently there was a stalled vehicle on the Seattle side of the bridge. Some of the worse traffic ever - two hours later I was looking for parking in Seattle - it should have been a 20-30 minute drive. Since I was so late I gave up looking for street parking and went into a lot. I considered not paying since it seemed unlikely that they'd check on a Friday night, but then decided it wasn't worth the risk and paid my $5. We had a couple beers and dinner then it was suddenly very late. I called Tim feeling very guilty about the hour and he and Amy where on their way to bed so I decided to spend the night at Julian and Kandice's place. Back at my car I found... a ticket! This really pisses me off, as I paid, but how can I prove it? I tried to call the number on the ticket, but it's a mobile number and the phone was not on. Pissed off I followed Kandice back to their place. Kandice went to bed while Julian, a friend of theirs, and I sat up talking.

December
9
Portland, WA
From Seattle Found In: Entry: Wake up and leave before the others wake up. I met Amy, Tim, and Emily for breakfast in Redmond. I went back to Tim and Amy's and packed up to leave Seattle. I tried to call the parking company again regarding last night's ticket, but their phone was still off. Talking with Tim and Amy it sounds like it's very common for the people working the lots to skim some or all of the cash from the boxes - Tim was surprised that I would even pay cash. In the afternoon went to a Christmas party at my Rick and Katie's. It was good to see them after more than four years, but I didn't know anyone there, so after about an hour I headed south to Portland. Entry: It's only a three hour drive, but it seemed to take forever. Finally got to Oregon, with only a little trouble found my way to Melissa and Ken's house. Molly, who is from the same group of people in Seattle, was also visiting. We all went out for a great Italian dinner and a few beers, then stayed up late watching the Grinch Christmas special and playing cards until nearly five.

December
10
Cottage Grove, OR
From Portland, WA Found In: Lodging: Rainbow Motel Entry: After trying to sleep in a little I went with Melissa, Ben, and Molly. Had a nice, long big greasy breakfast. Spent the afternoon trying to shop in downtown Portland. I got hopelessly lost trying to find parking, but a lucky phone call from my friend Elizabeth got me found again. I spent several hours in the huge Powell's Bookstore. I ended up buying one present, on novel for me (Edward Abbey's Hayduke Lives), and three guide books (an old Footprint India Handbook, the Lonely Planet Maldives, and the Footprint Nepal Handbook). I spent the rest of the afternoon drinking coffee and reading then went to meet Elizabeth and Ethan. They showed me their new house then Ethan stayed to paint and Elizabeth and I went out for pizza. I'd been planning on staying the night in Portland, but the weather reports had me very nervous so I decided to try to get a couple hours further south. The snow level is supposed to drop to 1,000 feet tonight and I have to cross a 5,000+ foot pass tomorrow. If there is snow on the road tomorrow the crossing in to California is going to be very slow so the extra couple hours might really help.

December
11
Red Bluff, CA
From Cottage Grove, OR Found In: Weather: Rain / Snow / Rain Entry: After checking out of the hotel I panicked and went to buy tire chains - it was that cold and rainy, so I figured it had to be snowing in the mountains. By the time I left Cottage Grove it was already 10:30. The first couple hours were just wet and gray. I stopped for lunch in Grants Pass, and as I left it was starting to snow. The next hour the snow started and stopped, but nothing sticking on the road. Then suddenly there was snow on the road and I was slipping around. It was less than an inch, so I slowed down and put the car in four wheel drive and I was fine - if a bit stressed. After about a half an hour the road was clear again. Right around the California - Oregon border it really started to snow hard. It still wasn't sticking to the road, but for nearly an hour the visibility was very poor. I got to Red Bluff about an hour before my friend Amy was done with work, so I decided to go into town to buy ingredients for dinner. We made turkey fajitas and talked.

December
12
Piedmont, CA
From Red Bluff Found In: Entry: In the morning after packing Amy and I tore apart the dashboard of her truck to try to get into her broken CD player. I think Amy lacked faith, but an hour later the dashboard was back together and her CD player worked. It was a gorgeous sunny day, so after finishing with the truck we went for a long walk around the adjacent property and then it was time for me to get on the road. Entry: I'd been planning on meet my friend Mike in San Francisco for dinner, but when I was a couple hours out he called and asked if we could reschedule for somewhere on the East Bay. Since I'd arranged to stay with Amy and her parents in Piedmont that actually worked better for me so that was good. The problem was that now I had a couple hours to kill. I stopped to do some shopping at a couple different places. I tried the office supply stores and electronics / computer stores looking for a new handheld Windows CE computer, but no one had what I wanted (I've set my heart on the HP 720LX). I tried to do some Christmas shopping but was uninspired and couldn't think of anything for the last few people I had to buy for. I tried the outlet malls to pick up some things that I need for my next bit of traveling - but couldn't find anything. Basically I had a very unproductive afternoon. Entry: In the evening I met Mike at his apartment in Richmond and we headed out for dinner. I suggested something ethnic and we ended up at a great little burrito place - not exactly what I had in mind, but just right. After dinner we walked up the street to a little pub, and then went back to his apartment. Around eleven I said goodbye and headed for Piedmont. At Amy's house we had a beer, played with Titrit (her cat), and went to bed.

December
13
Piedmont, CA
Found In: Weather: Rain Entry: The rainy gray skies were kind of a disappointment after yesterdays gorgeous weather. I dropped Amy off at work and then settled into a cafe to wait for traffic to die down. At ten I headed for San Francisco. Traffic wasn't bad, but finding parking in the city was nearly impossible. After an hour of searching I gave up and parked in a thirty minute meter spot. I called Wolf and he met me down on the street with some quarters to feed the meter. We had a nice lunch, fed the meter again, the hung out talking. I was going to do some Christmas shopping, but I just couldn't motivate to search for more permanent parking so I went with plan B and headed to Sausilito. Entry: I had a nice drive despite the rain along the presidio, past the wharves, and across the Golden gate bridge. Some very old family friends own an antique store in Sausilito, and I've never seen it so I decided to drop by - unannounced. The fact that it's been at least four years since I've seen either of them (and likely much longer) made it even more fun. Jim was working behind the counter and was surprisingly quick in recognizing me. I wandered around the shop exploring while he dealt with some customers. We sat down and talked about past travels (they'd recently been in Cuba), future travels (he's off to Paris via London tomorrow), and all the gossip about friends and family. Entry: At a quarter to four I decided I should get going in case there was traffic. I had planned on going back to the East Bay by driving north on 101 then taking the Richmond bridge across the bay. The theory was that I would avoid traffic. The theory was wrong, it took me nearly two hours to get to Oakland. I think that there must have been an accident up 101, because that was well over an hour right there (to go something like five miles). Once I got to Oakland I picked up Amy (somewhat late) and we went back to her place where somehow she convinced me to go for a run with her (actually I convinced her to let me go - but I'm not sure what made me do that). The run was actually really nice, but I'm definitely going to feel it tomorrow! After the run we went with her parents to a great dinner at a Burmese restaurant. We'd planned on going to bed really early since we'll be driving all night tomorrow, but somehow it was midnight before I got to bed.

December
14
Laguna Beach, CA
From Piedmont Found In: Entry: I dropped off Amy and then went and parked my car. I was going to hang out at Starbucks until the library opened at ten, then deal with a bunch of errands on the internet before meeting Amy for lunch. Unfortunately it's Thursday and the library didn't open until after noon. So I ended up spending the entire morning in Starbucks nursing a latte and writing email and my journal. Amy and I had a yummy Mexican lunch then she went back to work and I hit the library. I got tons done - updated my journal, sent email, banking, some research, and ordered a new handheld computer (an HP Jornada 720 to replace my aging 660LX). I was going to go catch a movie in the afternoon, but by the time I finished at the library it was too late so I ended up spending nearly two hours in the Jack London Square Barnes and Nobel (I love bookstores!). At five I picked up Amy from work and went back to the house to pack. We left Piedmont around seven and had a quick seven hour drive down to Laguna. It's amazing how much faster the drive goes with company! In Laguna we sat up talking with my parents until four.

December
15
Laguna Beach, CA
Found In: Entry: Dec. 15: Spent the morning hanging out and showing Amy our house. The new handheld computer that I just ordered yesterday afternoon arrived, but I don't get to play with it until Amy leaves Monday. In the afternoon Amy and I fought traffic to go out to El Torro to do some Christmas shopping. It was a bit confusing - everything has moved. Back in town we met up with Chris at the pool and did a little workout. My mom had my sister and Gary, and Linda and Warren over for dinner to celebrate my birthday. I thought I'd rather have ignored it, but it was really nice, and I got presents! Entry: Dec. 16: We slept in, then spent the rest of the day helping my parents getting set up for their annual Christmas party (cleaning, yard work, picked up the keg, etc.). The party started at seven, and somehow we managed to be ready (nearly) on time. The party was a complete success! Good food and drinks, and it was great to see tons of people that I haven't seen in four or five years! There were tons of family friends, and I had a good selection of friends from high school and university. Things wound down pretty early (at least compared to the old days) and I was in bed around midnight. Entry: Dec. 17: We woke up way to early. Not to surprisingly I wasn't feeling too hot, but still I think a lot better than Amy was. We drove down to San Diego and had lunch with Amy's grandmother. After lunch I followed Amy and her grandmother to Solana Beach and then after meeting Amy's aunt and uncle I left them and headed down to Pacific Beach. I tried to get hold of a bunch of friends but completely struck out - no one was home. I ended up doing some shopping at the "Travel Depot", wandered around and then headed back to Solana Beach to have dinner with Amy and her relatives. Entry: Dec. 18: Amy packed in the morning. We walked downtown and had lunch at Zinc's. After lunch we went for a three hour walk along the beach to Crescent Bay and back. Fought traffic to get to the airport, then sat with Amy until her flight left. Entry: Dec. 19: Spent most of the day trying to work out a flight to Bangkok. The problem is that there are no reasonably priced flights available in January (the tickets available are twice as much as a flight in May). I think I worked out how to make my "World Navigator" ticket that I bought in Australia get me back to Bangkok for about $300. I got a reservation on Northwest Airlines for January 12th, now I have to go in to a NWA ticket office and try to explain the whole thing to them (they don't sell this ticket here). Entry: Dec. 20: After completely failing to get anyone on the phone to understand what I was trying to do with the airpass I'd bought in Australia I headed off to the airport to try to deal with a real person. At the airport they told me they couldn't do anything about an international ticket unless it had already been reserved and arranged with the reservations desk. So I ended up on the courtesy phone talking to the reservation desk again. After a few minutes they suggested that maybe I should talk to the "Around the World" desk - there they knew exactly what I was talking about and I was on my way to getting my ticket changed! But then they pointed out a problem, they said I was only allowed one stop in each city - and I've already been to Bangkok. So I hung up and went to sit down to figure out where else that I could fly in to (Hong Kong, Taipei?) But as soon as I sat down I looked over the rules that I was given with my ticket and it doesn't say anything about visiting the same city twice. Also when I thought about it the original ticket I had issued had two stops in Cairo, so it couldn't be a problem. Back on the phone I got to RTW desk again, but of course it's a different person so after I explained everything again he looked up the rules and quoted me rule 12d. When I looked at my list I didn't have a 12d, 12c was the last one. So then we checked the date of his rules and they were date June 22, a couple weeks after I'd bought my ticket. He agreed that the earlier rules should apply, but he didn't have access to the earlier set so there was nothing he could do, the later rules had to be used So. I asked to speak to his supervisor and started all over again. She suggested that since I had the original rules I needed to speak with someone in person. She then looked up Orange County airport and said that there would be someone there at 3:30 that could help me. I had lunch and came back an hour later. After waiting fifteen minutes I was told the same thing - I had to work it out on the phone. So back on the phone, through the reservation desk to the RTW desk, to talk with yet someone else. I explained everything again, and she suggested asking the ticket agents to fax her the rules I had. I did and then spent the next hour on the phone with her trying to work out the rules, and then the fees (the tickets were bought in Australian Dollars, the last taxes were paid in Thai Baht, and I'd be paying for the excess miles in US Dollars). At the end of the call, I had a reservation, I had her understanding and all that was required was a endorsement from Emirates Airlines. She told me she'd keep working on it and call me back this evening. So after three hours at the airport I headed home. She called later in the evening to tell me that they were still waiting, but promised to call tomorrow to let me know what the status was. Entry: Dec. 21: Since I ended up staying up until after five (trying to win just one game of solitaire) I slept in until late. I helped my dad repair the chair I had sent from Malawi for my mom's Christmas present. Got on the computer and updated my journal, did email, and fixed a mapping bug in my journal (it couldn't draw trans-pacific routes). While online I also did some research and ordered new contacts. After dinner I started working on my printed address list - I was just going to work on it for an hour, but the next thing I knew it was well after five again. Entry: Dec. 22: After the late night, I slept in again. I worked with my dad trying to glue the chair again (my mom's Christmas present). Yesterday's attempt failed. Spent some time on the computer and then helped my dad do some comparison shopping on the net. I got a call from Northwest airlines. They still haven't gotten the endorsement from Emirates to change my ticket, but they've gone ahead and approved the change without it. So tomorrow I should headed back to the airport to get it! In the evening I went over to the Hanke's to sit in the hot tub, and then have dinner. After dinner Wolf and I went to see the move Proof of Life (I liked it, pretty good action, great scenery - got to get to South America!). Entry: Dec. 23: In the morning I debated going to the airport. I wanted to get my ticket completely out of the way, but I was terrified of what the airport might be like. Finally gave in and went to do battle at the airport, where I was pleasantly surprised to find it no hassle at all. I have my tickets! In the afternoon I took care of a few Christmas gifts (photo enlargements). Entry: Dec. 24: Got on the web to buy some (very) last minute gifts. Worked on ACT, did some sweeping for my mom, and joined the family for Christmas eve dinner at Linda and Warren's. Predictably I stayed up late wrapping. Entry: Dec. 25: Up early for presents, stockings, and breakfast with Mom, Dad, Melinda, Gary, Linda, and Warren. In the afternoon I met up with Wolf and Wendy and went and saw the new Tom Hanks movie Castaway. Dinner was huge - 14 of us in total - this morning's crowd plus Don, Kaye, Jeanette, Glen, Gary's parents (Irvin and Janet), and Linda's friend. Entry: Dec. 26: Did my laundry, went downtown to the phone store to find out about repairs (my display went blank). Walked back on the beach and hung out for the sunset (the first one I've seen since getting home). Went out for a couple beers with Wolf and Chris.

December
27
San Francisco, CA
From Laguna Beach Found In: Entry: I drove up to Chris' house to borrow a wet suit from Chris. At Wolf's house we messed around with the equipment a little and then rented what we needed (a couple tanks and a BC). By the time we got into the water at Wood's Cove we were runnning at least an hour late. The conditions were lacking - cold, poor visibility, and no fish. It was nice to be in the water and I hadn't seen a garibaldi in a long time, but that was about it. We ended up getting out of the water with half a tank of air left - it got boring (and did I mention cold?). Entry: By the time we got back to Wolf's it was getting late so it was a rush to get out before traffic got to bad. But I needed to go mail some packages at the post office, pack, and wrap a Christmas package, so an hour later we were on our way. Traffic in LA should have been terrible, but it wasn't to bad - maybe a half hour longer than usual. Entry: We made it to Berkeley about ten PM and met up with Wendy at her brother's house. The three of us head down to the Triple Rock brewery for a couple beers, then Wolf and I headed to his place in the City.

December
28
Piedmont, CA
From San Francisco Found In: Entry: I was planning on spending the day getting my visa for India. Unfortunately when I called the embassy I found out they were closed for a holiday. I'd committed to helping Wolf move out of his office tonight (he's starting a new job), so I'm stuck spending the day in the city. I Dropped off Wolf at work and struggled to find parking. I finally found parking with a ten dollar maximum and then went to the new Sony Metronome building. I spent the morning exploring the wanna-be amusement park, but really didn't see the point. It was a beautiful day and I thought about heading down to the piers, but I didn't want to have to pay for more parking so I was stuck. After the Sony Store, I had lunch, and did the Microsoft SF store - oh the excitement! In the afternoon I went to see the movie What Women Want. When I got out of the movie I still had hours to kill and there was another movie starting. So I made a big mistake and went to Dude, Where's my Car - perhaps one of the worst movies ever. Entry: Filled the car with the contents of Wolf's office and dropped them and him off in the Marina district. I had a glass of wine with Wolf and his roommate while waiting for traffic to go away. When I figured it was safe I headed for the bay bridge and ran into horrible traffic...

December
29
Piedmont, CA
Found In: Entry: Dec. 29: I went with Amy to Walnut Creek to choose new glasses at her dad's new office. Then we went to her Mom's office so I could try to fix her computer, but alas I failed. Amy and I hit the travel store in Berkeley - but bought nothing. I met Wendy in Berkeley to see the movie Brother, Where Art Thou? - I liked it. Entry: Dec. 30: I woke up not feeling so good. Amy and I left to go to the supermarket and managed to lock ourselves out of the house. At the market I really started to feel not well and was in a horrible mood. We dropped the groceries off at the house (left them in the garage) with a note so that when Amy's parents got home they could call us and let us back in to the house. We spent the afternoon in Berkeley - shopping for sandals for me (didn't find any), and pants and shirts for Amy (also didn't find any), and looking for frequent bathrooms. Sometime afternoon I ceased feeling sick, but just felt down. When Amy's Dad called we went back to the house and I took a nap. Amy and I made couscous for her parents (well I helped - a little) it was fantastic.

December
31
San Francisco, CA
From Piedmont Found In: Entry: Amy was supposed to wash her parent's cars yesterday but we locked ourselves out of the house. So this morning I spent a couple hours helping her with the washing. It was a bit cold at first, but when the fog burned off it was a great excuse to be outside. After we finished we celebrated by heading out to a nice restaurant for lunch - unfortunately it was closed, so we ended up at a burrito shop. After lunch we both found travel pants to buy after a quick check on the sales. Entry: We jumped in the car and headed for the city at about six. Somewhat surprisingly there wasn't any traffic. Even more surprisingly I navigated all the way across San Francisco without getting lost. We easily (!) found parking at Wolf's place. Wolf is out of town for a few days so Amy and I borrowed his room so we didn't have to drive back after partying. We had a beer at the apartment, headed out for a light salad for dinner, then had a few more beers at Wolf's. We shared a taxi with Justin (one of Wolf's flat-mates) to Union Ave. We met Sian (a high school friend of Amy's) at a bar called Tonic (at Polk and Union). Amy's friend Pam (was also Peace Corps in Morocco) called around eleven and we caught a taxi down to Mission and met them at Dalva's, a tiny bar on Mission. Dalva's had a much more interesting - and interactive - crowd. Sometime after the traditional countdown Amy and I left Pam and her friends and caught a taxi back to Wolf's in the Marina district. Nothing to exciting, but a fun night out.

January, 2001

January
1
Piedmont, CA
From San Francisco Found In: Entry: We had to get up early so Amy could get back to her house sitting duties. Early on new years day wasn't fun, but the advantage was no traffic - even in downtown San Francisco! After Amy finished her job we hung out with her parents, then went back to bed. We went into town for giant burgers for a late lunch.

January
2
Piedmont, CA
Found In: Entry: While checking my email this morning I took a look at PDA Mart's Developer's Den page and found out I'd won the contest! I'd entered Pike (my icon editor for Windows CE devices) in their November "Coolest Killer App" contest and it won! That means I won a $500 Compaq iPaq Pocket PC - strangely enough I haven't heard anything from them, but still great news. Entry: I dropped Amy off at a coffee shop so she could do some reading. Meanwhile I wandered into Berkeley. I looked into some shops, used a computer for half an hour then met back up with Amy. We hit a few more shops on College Ave then went to Cody's - Amy's favorite bookstore. Later it was my turn to read at a coffee shop while Amy met with the professor she's working with on her project in India. We ended up waiting in line for a great salad on Telegraph.

January
3
Laguna Beach, CA
From Piedmont Found In: Entry: I ended up leaving a little later than I'd hoped, but even coming in to Los Angeles at 3:45 it only took 6 hours 35 minutes to get home. As a bonus it was a beautiful sunny summer day - in the middle of winter. The temperature as I came into LA was 82°F (28°C) - wish I could have had the top off! At home, I talked with the parents, checked my mail, and paid some bills.

January
4
Laguna Beach, CA
Found In: Entry: Jan. 4: In the morning I walked down to the health clinic to get prescriptions (malaria prophylaxis, antibiotics, and stuff for my ears). It was such a nice day that on the way back from I decided to put off trip prep and hang out on the beach. I spent the couple hours lounging on the beach in the summer-like heat. Entry: Jan. 5: Both my sister and I had gift certificates to a nice restaurant at South Coast Plaza so we decided to take my mom out to lunch with them. I haven't been shopping with my mom and sister in about fifteen years - it will be longer until the next time. The lunch was great, then next four hours were almost hellish. Entry: Jan. 6: Picked up another prescription for Larium from Harvey. I realized that it's only three more days until I leave my parents, so I started packing - I hate packing so I didn't make it very far. Spent most of the day working on my mom's new web page (check out JulitaJones.com). Entry: Jan. 7: Met Dana downtown for lunch at Henessy's - Dana's a friend from University who lives in New York so isn't around much. After lunch we went back to my parent's and looked at photos. When she left I walked around downtown looking for shoes. At night I went up to Chris and Chanthu's house and watched the video The Perfect Storm with them and said goodbye. I was up very late getting a head start on packing. Weather: Rain Entry: Jan. 8: Last day. Did some more work on my mom's web page, and spent a big chunk of the day creating a cover for my dive log (scanned all the stamps from various clubs out of my log). I'm in trouble now as neither my phone or my contacts were in the mail and if I wait an extra day before heading North I may not be able to get my visa for India before heading to Bangkok. I the evening I went to Sav-On to pick up last minute sundries and a travel prescription, and make some copies of some photos for Amy. Of course I spent an hour doing the photos first, then found out there was an hour wait at the pharmacy - so I was there for a long time. At home I had dinner with My parents and Melinda and Gary then spent some more time on the computer. Once again I was up very late packing for tomorrow's departure.

January
9
Piedmont, CA
From Laguna Beach Found In: Entry: Got up reasonably early to finish packing. Did some last minute work on the computer (mostly fixing things on my mom's page and trying to teach her how to do it). My phone was delivered, but I decided not to wait for the mail to maybe get my contacts as I would end up having to drive all night after waiting for the LA traffic to die. Instead I arranged to have my parents overnight them up to Amy's house if they came in - otherwise I'll have to go on a mission up in San Francisco. Entry: Despite getting a later than hoped for start (details, details, detail - and neighbors) traffic wasn't to big of a problem and the drive was quick - just six and a half hours. I was hoping to meet Amy and a friend in Berkeley but they were long gone by the time I got there. Then I got hopelessly lost in Berkeley and didn't figure out where I was until I ended up in downtown Oakland?!?

January
10
Piedmont, CA
Found In: Weather: Rain Entry: I left in the morning to go wait in line at the Indian Consulate. The Bay Bridge traffic was a nightmare - very strong winds kicking up water from the bay made for very bad visibility - it took well over an hour to get across. By the time I found the consulate I only had a half hour to get my visa application in. The wait at the consulate was a pleasant surprise, apparently most people weren't willing to brave the storm, and the entire application took me less than five minutes. I had no problem figuring out the quick way across town to downtown SF, but then had to deal with hellish parking due to some convention. Entry: I met Amy who had taken the BART if from the east bay. We spent the afternoon shopping downtown and had a late lunch, then jumped back in the car to go pick up my visa. Luckily traffic wasn't a problem, and once again there was no wait at the consulate so in about half an hour we were back downtown looking for parking. We finally found a sketchy spot and headed for the Sony Metronome. We played around in the stores a little, then went to see a movie, Finding Forester - which we both liked. After the movie we met Wolf downstairs and had a few beers. I handed over my jeep - Wolf's keeping it for me again, then Amy and I caught the second to last BART back to Oakland.

January
11
Piedmont, CA
Found In: Weather: Rain Entry: Horrible rain again. We spent the morning cleaning the house since Amy's grandmother was going to be staying in Amy's room starting tonight. Spent the afternoon shopping in some of Berkeley's boutiques. Amy managed to find a shirt that would be ok for her work in India - after trying on about twenty. I finally found the Tevas I'd been looking for at REI. It turned out Amy's grandma didn't make it tonight, so we made dinner (Ok, I helped a little) and once again packed for my departure tomorrow.

January
12
San Francisco, CA
From Piedmont Found In: Lodging: Northwest Airlines, Flight 027: San Francisco - Tokyo Entry: Woke up to blue skies - unfortunate, since I was hoping the flight would be delayed a bit so that I would miss my connection get stuck in Tokyo and hopefully be able to catch a flight getting in to Bangkok at a better hour. Amy drove me to the airport and came in with me. We said a sad goodbye and my flight left mostly on time. Eleven hours in the air...

January
13
Bangkok, Thailand
From San Francisco, CA Found In: Route: Northwest Airlines Flight 027: San Francisco - Tokyo; Northwest Airlines Flight 001: Tokyo - Bangkok Entry: Didn't even try to sleep on the flight to Tokyo. The flight landed on time in Tokyo - good thing as I only had a little over an hour scheduled between flights. I spent my 45 minutes running around the airport - added my frequent flyer number to my ticket and checked out duty free. The flight to Bangkok was a little rough, but I managed to grab a couple hours sleep. We actually landed in Bangkok a little early. I caught a taxi from the airport - it felt good to be clued in enough to tell the driver how to get to the guest house I wanted. At the guest house much to my surprise there was one bed left. So by one o'clock nearly 22 hours after leaving San Francisco I laid down to go to sleep.

January
14
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Weather: Overcast / Rain / Overcast Entry: I didn't sleep well last night due to snoring, a hard mattress, and I don't know what else. I gave up trying to sleep at seven and got up and had breakfast - my favorite - museli with yogurt, fruit, and peanuts. I sat in the restaurant reading until things started to open. Arranged to move into a room (at least I can get away from the snoring!) I went out to talk to a travel agent I'd used before but he wasn't open so I hit the internet and then came back. The travel agent gave me prices for flights to India ranging from $105 (Calcutta) to $188 (Madras). Right now I think I'm tending towards flying into Delhi ($159) on Wednesday - which gives me time to look around and check out some other travel agents before leaving. Entry: Back at the guest house I moved into a room, and then found out the fan didn't work. There was a guy to fix it, but while he was working I couldn't lock the door so I wasn't comfortable leaving the area. I worked on the internet for an hour and then came back to my room - he was still working, so I read for an hour - still working. Finally just as he finished it started to pour rain. I gave up on walking to Khao San Road and went back to the internet and then spent the rest of the afternoon reading and listening to music. Entry: I had an early dinner - Pad Thai! Then went back to my room to read for a while. I was really getting tired but I didn't want to go to bed to early. So I went back downstairs and had a beer before crashing hard at 11.

January
15
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Entry: I was up at seven again (the Larium?). I had museli for breakfast, then jumped on the internet. I got another price for a flight to India and decided to go ahead and book it - only to find there were no seats available for this week. I walked through the nearby food market - mostly meats. I'd bought some fried bannanas but the market made me pretty queasy - I really am out of the travel habit! It wasn't just the butchered stuff, it was also the live birds, eels, turtles (of all sizes), and snakes. On the other side of the market I was distraught to come across a booth selling cute fluffy rabbits and hamsters. I can deal with people eating rabbits, but the hamsters upset me a little. When I saw that they were also selling goldfish I realized that it was a pet store - at least it made me feel better to think that! Entry: At Kao San Road I wandered around and did some shopping. I bought a hammock to send to Stacy - she requested it for her hut in Micronesia. I also bought a couple books, some toiletries, and had a student ID made for $1. Entry: I tried another travel agent. Her price was even cheaper, but when she checked the flights both airlines were booked through the end of the month. She came up with even a cheaper route that had the added benefit(?) of giving me a night in Bangladesh - but even that was booked out. She told me to come back after lunch and she would call a friend who worket at Air India. I came back an hour later and she was able to get me a seat on Wednesday flight to Delhi for $150. I paid for the ticket but I don't get to pick it up until tomorrow - I'm hoping t all works out! Entry: I finnished off my Kao San afternoon at a bar where I had a beer and watched the video The Hollow Man. I walked back to the guest house and hung out in my room a bit. I had another great dinner at the guest house and then had a few beers while talking to the guy who had written the Instant Juggling series of books.

January
16
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Entry: I got up early again, and spent the morning doing laundry, checking email, and walking down to Khao San Road. In Khao San I tried to pick up my ticket to India but was told that it wouldn't be available until after six this evening. I walked to the nearest navigable canal and caught a series of canal boats to Asoke and then walked to the Sky Train. On the way I passed the Grand Pacific Hotel - where my parents were staying last time I was in Bangkok - and I remembered that they had a very good free map so I went up to the seventh floor to get one. For fun I took the sky train one stop away from Siam Square - to someplace I hadn't been before. All that was there was a very ritzy shopping mall. I wandered around and browsed the bookstores, and then ended up going to see the movie Meet the Parents. After the movie I retraced my earlier route and picked up my ticket from the travel agent.

January
17
Delhi, India
From Bangkok, Thailand Found In: Country: India End Location: Delhi, India Route: Air India flight 305: Bangkok - Delhi Entry: In the morning packed then took a shower. In the shower I started to shave then realized that between the new shaving oil and the old razor I was butchering my face. I decided I couldn't stop half way done so I continued. After getting out of the shower I looked in the mirror - I've got dozens of scratches on my face and neck - it looks like I got in a fight with a cat - I had no idea I was doing that kind of damage! Looking at the razor it wasn't just dull, it was broken. Entry: After breakfast I checked out, left my luggage and tried to call Delhi to make a room reservation for tonight. I couldn't get through on the phone, but after talking to some people at the guest house it didn't sound like there would be a problem. It's finally a beautiful day so I caught a river boat down to the grand palace to take some pictures. Last time I was in Bangkok the day I went to the bejeweled Grand Palace it was overcast so I wanted to take some pictures in the sun. I was still a little nervous about getting on the flight tonight (it just seemed like getting a ticket on the sold out plane had been a little too easy) so I wanted to be on my way to the airport plenty early. Since I didn't have time to go in to the palace grounds I just took pictures from the outside and entry gate. Entry: After leaving the palace I walked up to Khao San Road. My friend Stacy had sent me email requesting that I send her some skirts - 17 of them! She's just moved down to Micronesia and apparently there's a shortage of things to where so she's buying clothes for all the expats and aid workers on her island. Or rather, I'm buying them. I found someplace that was willing to sell them to me for 80 baht (less than $2) each in that quantity and picked them out (she trusted my taste? this will teach her). Then I needed to wade through the post office bureaucracy and post them to her. It really wasn't that bad, but it still took an hour and then it was time to get on my way. Entry: Walked back to the guest house, got my stuff together and set out to find a taxi. I was actually running about half an hour later than I'd hoped, so I was very glad to find a taxi just outside the guesthouse. Further more he was an insane driver - dodging through traffic and hitting speeds of 150 kilometers an hour (90+ mph)! But the hour trip only took 35 minutes so I was back on schedule. I was glad that I hadn't told him I was in a hurry! There was no problems with my tickets and checked in and went through immigration without any problems. Wasted my time wandering through Bangkok's huge, modern duty free area. There are dozens of stores that sell the same things - in fact when you look closely you realize they're all the same store, it just each one is arranged differently to make it look different. Entry: The flight wasn't very comfortable. Air India has the smallest seats I've ever seen - even smaller than Northwest! But the meal was the best airplane food I've ever had, and the flight was smooth and passed quickly. About an hour out I really started to stress about landing in Delhi after dark - I've heard so many nightmare stories about Delhi. Though I was glad to find that I was also very excited. Entry: Immigration was slow, but no problems. Customs was the same and then I was outside - and it wasn't a problem at all. There were a few taxi touts, but not nearly as bad as Egypt, Morocco, or a dozen other places. I was easily able to find the pre-paid taxi stand, buy a ticket, and find my taxi. The whole airport experience went very smoothly and I was thinking that landing at night might be a whole lot easier than in the day. Traffic from the airport was fairly bad - apparently trucks aren't allowed in Delhi during the day so they all have to make their rounds at night. It wasn't too bad, as I really enjoyed the elaborately decorated rear differentials on most of trucks. Entry: When I got to Pahranj - the section of Delhi that I had a recommended guest house for - we couldn't find the guest house. The taxi drove around for about an hour but we couldn't find it - did see a couple cows wandering the streets though. So the drivers (there were two - and they took turns) wanted me to go to a tourist office where the guy wouldn't give me directions and just insisted that all the hotels in Delhi were full due to a festival, but he could find me a room for $40. I realized it had to be a scam and set off with my drivers again - this time me navigating from my guide book - which also failed. Nearly an hour later They took me to a different tourist office and I got the same story. The guy there made some calls and told me the same thing. I still thought it was a scam so he let me use the phone - every hotel in the book was full - even the expensive ones. Entry: I let the taxi go and started to think about staying up all night and leaving Delhi first thing in the morning. The guy at the the tourist office turned out to be very nice and explained where it might be good to go. He suggested heading for Allahabad - where the festival (and the 16 million pilgrims coming through Delhi are headed). The festival is Maha Kumbh Mela which only happens every twelve years and is one of Hinduism's holiest. More talking, and eventually he has a 14 day itinerary that takes me from Delhi to Jaipur, Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambore National Park), Khajusaho, Veranasi, and Mumbai (Bombay) for only $670! Needless to say I don't sign up. Actually setting up a few days in a row with taxi, hotel, and train tickets included does sound a little appealing. It would allow me to get a grip on what's going on much easier and then I should be able to handle things on my own. I told him I needed to read up and decide what I want to do and that I would talk to him tomorrow. By this time it was nearly one in the morning and he suggested we go by a nearby hotel. At the hotel they were able to put a mattress on the floor of a small store room, and promised me a room by five tomorrow morning. So I agreed to stay tonight and tomorrow night for about $30 a night. They got the store room cleared out and set up and by the time I got to sleep it was after three.

January
18
Delhi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Delhi, India Entry: In the morning I tried to sleep in, but between the noise and it being so cold (a surprise to me - it's cold in Delhi this time of year), I finally gave up and got up. There's hot water, but the heater is so small it's only good for a three minute shower - and it seems to take a good hour to heat up. I spent the morning cowering in my room getting caught up with my journal, and trying to read up on Delhi. Early afternoon I ventured out to find a cafe where I could sit and continue reading, but still experience Delhi a little. When I asked the desk clerk to show me on the map where the hotel was he excused himself for a minute and made a quick call in Sanskrit. A few seconds after he hung up the phone rings and it's a call for me - the tour guy from last night. It's very obvious that the clerk had just called him telling him I'm up, but he insists that he's just happened to call when I'm on my way out. A few minutes later he's there in person and he invites me for tea. He is very insistent about giving me a taxi for the day. First for only 2,000 Rs, and then for free - it's obvious he wants to prevent me from talking to other tour operators. I politely decline - repetitively. He finally drops me off at an Internet cafe and I agree to meet with him later before dinner. Entry: I walked around whatever neighborhood I happened to be in for an hour - just soaking in the atmosphere - something like a combination of an African and an eastern European city, but different. I had no idea where I was so eventually I decided to check out the train situation at the train station then continue on to find a cafe to read in. I caught a tuktuk and negotiated a ride to the station for only 10 Rs. On the way he does the expected and tries to get me to talk to an American tourist information officer. When I refuse he tells me that it will be very difficult to get tickets and I'm going to need to talk to a tourist office. He drops me off at the computerized train reservations center - and it is very confusing - but it's also not where I wanted to be. A few people told me that I should go to the tourist desk at the station itself - which I'd seen signs for a few hundred meters up the road. When I left the reservation center there was my tuktuk driver smiling and saying something like "I told you so, now lets go to my guy", and then he was angry and in my face when I said I was going to walk to the train station (clearly he wants his commission). I walk on. Entry: At the train station I find the tourist desk (a room really). There's a very helpful help desk where I was told which train numbers I could use, and that there were two tickets left on the train to Jaipur tomorrow morning (something my tourist guide friend from last night and this morning said was impossible). So I got in the line. An hour later the line had barely moved so I went back to the help desk to make sure there were still seats available, and try to arrange another leg (Jaipur - Agra) to make the waiting time more useful. Another hour later I repeated this to find a third leg (Agra - Varanasi). Finally three hours later I walked out in to the night with three tickets. Early tomorrow morning I'm in a first class air-conditioned car from New Delhi station to Jaipur. On the 21st I'm in a second class air-conditioned car from Jaipur to Agra. Then on the 23rd I'm on a second class non-air-conditioned overnight coach from just outside Agra to Varanasi. Each trip is longer than the previous one, and each is going to be rougher - but I had to go with what was available. Entry: With directions from the tourist desk I set off to find a bank with an ATM. Initially I set off in the wrong direction but when I asked in at one of the tour operators they gave me the same directions and pointed me back across the station. On the other side of the station I asked a few guards who'd think for a moment and then point in a vague direction. I wandered around the bazaar outside the station but couldn't find the bank. As I walked back to the station I saw the bank - in the station, no more than 10 meters from where I'd asked one of the guards! I got some money out through several transactions (max 2,000 Rs - about $40 - per withdrawal), and caught a taxi back to the hotel. From the hotel I left my day bag and went for a wander around in the dark. I stopped by an internet cafe and updated my journal to show I made it to India alive. On the walk back to the hotel I stopped to buy water and some street sweets (peanut brittle-like stuff) and then packed before retiring as early as I could since I'm getting up at 4:30 (!!) tomorrow morning.

January
19
Jaipur, India
From Delhi Found In: Country: India End Location: Jaipur, India Route: Train: #2015 Shatabadi Express: New Delhi - Jaipur Photo: The Wind Palace facade, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: The Wind Palace facade, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Women, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Details, The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: The Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Store fronts, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Store fronts, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Shop fronts, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Shop fronts, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Doorway, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Doorway, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Traffic, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Arches, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Traffic, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Rooftops, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Don't remember, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Rooftops, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Courtyard, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Windows, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Goat on car, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Old tower, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Alley, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Fry man, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Samrat Yantra (large sun dial), Jantar Mantar (Observatory), Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Looking towards Hawa Mahal (the Wind Palace), Jantar Mantar (Observatory), Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Looking towards Hawa Mahal (the Wind Palace), Jantar Mantar (Observatory), Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Rashivalayas Yantra (zodiac sundials), Jantar Mantar (Observatory), Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), Jantar Mantar (Observatory), Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Looking towards Chandra Mahal (the Moon Palace), Jantar Mantar (Observatory), Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Rooftops, Jantar Mantar (Observatory), Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Chandra Mahal (the Moon Palace), The City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Peacock door, City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Door, The City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Door, The City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Peacock door, The City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace), City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Doorway, City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Brass Krishna door, The City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-000 Photo: Door frame, The City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Chandra Mahal (the Moon Palace), The City Palace, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Street, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Roof, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Juice stand, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Kites in tree, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Kites in tree, Jaipur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Entry: My alarm woke me at 4:35 - good thing as I never did get the wake up call. I took a quick shower, checked out and argued over the price of the taxi. Last night I'd been told 150 Rs - which is already outrageous - but this morning the hotel manager was saying 250 Rs. When I started to walk out he came back to 150, but then wanted a tip! The hour ride to the train station only took fifteen minutes so I had over an hour to wait. There was some confusion when the train did come - because two trains came at the same time on the same spur. Luckily they were well marked. First class wasn't that luxurious - but there was leg room and they served complimentary coffee and corn flakes. The first hour of the trip was in the dark, then between the heavily tinted windows and the thick fog - the daylight didn't help much either. Entry: In Jaipur I hired a taxi driver to take me to a hotel out of the guide book. There was no problem getting a room, and though it's not as nice as my Delhi room - no hot water and I have to supply my own padlock - it's adequate and it costs a tenth the price. After checking in I hung out in the sun and read up - it's not only sunny - it's hot here! Entry: Around noon I hired a rickshaw driver to take me to Hawa Mahal (the Wind Palace) in the walled city center. I'd been planning on just starting there and wandering around - I certainly wasn't going to pay to go in. But after seeing the graceful cascading lines of the facade I decided to go in. The lines remind me of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul - not for any architectural resemblance, but just of the way the building seems to flow. I wandered around the ruins and took a lot of photos both with my SLR and my new digital camera. Entry: After leaving the Wind Palace I wandered around the street. I really like this place. It's not that there are no hassles, I was constantly having to turn down persistent rickshaw and tuktuk drivers, escape salespeople, and was usually followed around by a dozen kids. But people seem friendly and everyone lacks the hard predatory edge they had in Delhi. The city reminds me a lot of Dar es Salaam - maybe because of the heavy Indian influence there? It also reminds me of Aleppo (Syria) and some of the smaller cities in Morocco - it reminded me of so many places, I think because it's completely different from any other one place. The traffic was a solid mix of trucks, cars, tuktuks, mopeds, bicycles, and carts pulled by people, bikes, ox or camel - but somehow it seemed to work. Entry: I finally gave in - I've tried to be good, but I was hungry and it smelled so good - I had a lunch of street food. All spicy, and most good - I'm curious to see how my stomach is tomorrow. And my eating there was amusing to many of the locals. After lunch I eventually found my way through the maze of the City Palace to Jantar Mantar (the observatory) and eighteenth century garden enclosure full of very precise astronomical instruments made mostly of marble. The whole thing feels like a delightful sculpture garden. The most impressive device is the large Samrat Yantra - a sundial that is nearly a hundred feet tall and accurate to within two seconds! The big sundial was closed, but the views of the palace from some of the other structures (still several stories tall) were well worthwhile. Entry: The afternoon light on one of the more beautiful parts of the palace intrigued me so I decided to go into the City Palace as well. The palace complex was more of the same, and really not even as good as the Wind Palace, the observatory, or any of several dozen little courtyard areas off the street - except for the beautiful Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace). It was closed so I couldn't go in it, but the golden light on it's pale surface contrasted with the deep red color of the surrounding structures was sublime - and I have plenty of photos to prove it. Entry: When I left the palace complex I wandered down some random streets until I came upon a boy energetically flying a kite. When I stopped to watch I realized that I could see several dozen of little kites in the sky - flown from neighboring streets, the top of walls, roofs, and even a balcony - they were everywhere. Then I also noticed that the trees on the streets were dressed in the remains of the kites they had snagged. One tree held the remains of what must have been several hundred kites. Entry: I caught a tuktuk back to the guest house as I couldn't bear the thought of entering the heavy traffic again in an unpowered rickshaw. Back in my room I edited the seventy or eighty digital photos I took down to thirty-five keepers. I had dinner then tried to stay up reading, but by ten o'clock I was really starting to feel rundown.

January
20
Jaipur, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Jaipur, India Entry: I tried to sleep in but there was no power so the room started to get hot. So I sat in the garden and had a leisurely breakfast and read. When the power came back on I went in to the internet cafe to update my journal and upload the photos I took yesterday. It ended up taking me quite awhile to get everything to work right as it's the first time I've used the pictures from my digital camera and there were some problems with the program the generates my journal pages. Entry: It was way to hot to hike up to the fort, so I just set out from the guest house walking. Much to my surprise I ended up at the walled city - I'd thought it much further away. I wandered through some of the various bazaars, including those specializing in motorcycle parts, dyed cloth, furniture, and best of all, kites! The kite were made of brilliantly colored paper - I asked the price and was very tempted to buy a $1 worth - that would have been close to 50 of them! If the post office had still been open I would have, but there is no way they would survive my carrying them, so I didn't. Entry: I also wandered through the (a?) Muslim quarter which was obviously much less affluent. It looked like most of the stores were permanently closed, garbage littered the streets, and the children ran around naked. Strangely enough I hadn't seen pigs anywhere, but in the Muslim quarter they were all over. Wandering away from the wall into the narrow inner streets a quickly became lost. When it started to get dark I tried to get found again, but every alley I took seemed to dead end. I was just about to give up and hire a rickshaw to take me back when I stumbled on to the wall road. I got back to the guest house a good hour after dark and sat down to a fabulous chicken tikka dinner.

January
21
Agra, India
From Jaipur Found In: Country: India End Location: Agra, India Route: Train: Anaya Express # 2316: Jaipur - Agra Fort Photo: Gateway to the Taj, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Silhouette of the Taj Mahal after dark, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Entry: Up at seven to pack and have a quick breakfast before catching a rickshaw to the train station. The station was a madhouse and my train showed up ten minutes early which so confused me that I almost didn't realize it was my train. When I found the right car I went to get on and discovered a completely different world from the last train. It took me twenty minutes to fight through the dense bodies packing the aisle to get to my seat in the middle of the car. However once the train started moving most of those people seemed to disappear and it really wasn't that bad - actually quite a lot of room. There was an American and a Dutch guy sitting in my compartment so I spent a lot of the seven hour ride talking to them or reading the guide book. Entry: In Agra the three of us decided to share a tuktuk to where are chosen hotels were (right outside the gate to the Taj Mahal). It was a very tight squeeze with three large guys and rucksacks - I had to share the front seat with the driver. As were were coming around the imposing red fort that dominates the center of town we looked across this dry barren field to see our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. It is beautiful. So perfect and hazy in the distance that it looked like the backdrop for a movie. As we came around the field we were back in to the small streets and could no longer see the Taj. At the hotels they're on a tighter budget than me so they chose the hotel where they could pay less than $1 each for a double and I splurged for a nice room wit hot water, refrigerator, and a balcony for about $2. From the door of the hotel to the giant entry gate to the Taj Mahal is about a hundred feet. From my hotel roof you can see the top of the pure white dome floating above the red walls. You can also see that all the neighboring roofs are infested with monkeys - I must remember not to leave outside windows or doors open! Entry: After settling in I met up with the guys and we found a place to eat. After a great meal we set out to see if we could see the Taj while the sun was setting. The main gate had already shut so we set off along the perimeter to see if we could find a view. From the west side the gate was still open but it definitely wasn't worth the $20 admission to be able to go in for a half hour. We followed the west wall towards the river along a totally deserted street until we got to a gate. There the guard beckoned us in and then led us through some gardens and up a steep bank to the start of an aqueduct. We walked along the top of the ancient waterway until we were about level with the outer wall. In the fading light we could see the Taj! It's was so ghostly and ethereal and so perfect and just so indescribable. We followed along the top of the aqueduct to near the river and just sat for awhile appreciating the rare silence. On either side we had auxiliary garden of some kind and across rose the giant domes of what may be the most beautiful building on the planet. When it was quite dark we walked back and then argued with the guard as to what an acceptable tip was. Entry: Back near the hotel we climbed to a rooftop restaurant for a beer - my first in India, not great, but not bad. But quite expensive - almost as much as my room! Ever since we got to Agra the power has been out for the entire city - obviously a common problem since almost everyplace has a generator running. After my beer I looked around to find an internet cafe that was open - most were closed, I assume due to the lack of power. I'd gotten email from Amy and she's gotten to India and is settling in down south. Back at the hotel I realized how loud the generators were and was just wonder if they were going to run all night when the lights flickered and went off and the came back on - and all the generators stopped. Perfect timing.

January
22
Agra, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Agra, India Photo: Main gate, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Main gate, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Wall and moat, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Window in room, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Wall and tower, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Window and door, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: A tower, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Gardens, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Bird, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Stone eaves, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Stone eaves, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Corner of a courtyard, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Doorway, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Wall tower, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Wall tower, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Inner and outer walls, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Wall tower, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Inner and outer walls, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Walls, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Courtyard and domes, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Courtyard and domes, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Courtyard and domes, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Courtyard and domes, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Parots?, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Parots?, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Domes, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Monkeys, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 053-194 Photo: Arch, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Arch, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Arch, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Dome, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Gardens, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: View towards Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: View towards Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: View towards Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: View towards Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Wall and Tower of Agra Fort, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Traffic on Yamuna River bridge, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Cow with green horns, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Minaret, I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Cows on the river, I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Minaret, I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Gate, I'timad-ud-Daulah, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Laundry, Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Laundry, Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Taj Mahal in distance, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Laundry, Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Laundry, Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Laundry, Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Laundry, Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Tower in the water, Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: I'timad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj"), Bridge across theYamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj Mahal over the rooftops, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: The Taj and some surrounding streets, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Entry: I didn't sleep very well last night, so when my alarm went off at six and I looked outside and saw dense fog, it was an easy to decide that I would see sunrise at the Taj tomorrow morning. Having decided that I couldn't get back to sleep due to lots of noise on the streets. I gave up trying to sleep at eight when the power went off - I figured if I got up quickly the water would still be hot, and it was. I stopped in a little restaurant for a quick breakfast which turned in to a very leisurely one (over an hour to get my omelet, and I never did get my second cup of coffee). It was still very hazy but I decided to go to the fort anyway. I hired a rickshaw peddle me there and spent the next two hours exploring. Entry: Agra Fort is a huge impressive and beautiful red sand stone structure that right in the middle of Agra. It was build by three different generations of royalty and each had a very different style. I loved being able to wander around away from the tour groups, and the views were spectacular. I hated that it was hazy so you could barely see the Taj in the distance, that two thirds of the fort grounds are closed, and that there was no access to the towers or walls or anything of the high spots. I also felt that the ten dollar admission was very steep - more than I'd pay at home to go see a fort, and nearly a weeks worth of accommodation here. Not that I let any of that get stop me from taking a lot of photos. Entry: After leaving the fort I got my same Rickshaw and hired him to take me across the river to I'timad-ud-Daulah, the "Baby Taj", and then back to Tajganj (outside the Taj Mahal, where my hotel is). The ride across the river was pretty exciting as the bridge was a huge traffic jam of all kinds of vehicles from rickshaws to busses. On the river bed there were hundred of people doing laundry and there must have been thousands of sheets spread out on the sand to dry. The tomb itself was pretty. It was built by the wife of the Shaw for her father in 1622. It was one of the first buildings of white marble to be built in India. It's much, much smaller than the Taj Mahal and set in a much smaller garden, but it's also not very well known thus much more quiet and peaceful. I spent about half an hour wandering around, then another half an hour just sitting on a bench in the garden. Entry: On the ride back I had the driver drop me off at the bridge and I walked across so I could take some photos of the the sheets drying and the cows sleeping on the river bed (the river is very low right now). It seemed that everyone else on the bridge was very shocked to see a tourist walking across, but I enjoyed it and I think some of the photos will be excellent. I also had the rickshaw driver (Powapow) pull over a couple times so I could take pictures of the Taj Mahal floating in the haze. Outside my hotel I ran in to Daryl and Neil and hung out for an hour with them - they'd managed to sneak into the Taj Mahal this morning and were pretty excited about it. I worked on my journal for a bit then went to a rooftop restaurant to have an early dinner and watch the Taj reflect the sun set - unfortunately it was still quite hazy so there wasn't really a sunset. After dinner I check email and uploaded my journal entry and photos for today. Then went up to another rooftop place to have a beer before heading to bed - I am getting up early tomorrow!

January
23
Agra, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Agra, India Lodging: Train: Marudhar Express #4864: Agra - Varanasi Photo: The central inner gate, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj and reflecting pool, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj and reflecting pool, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj and reflecting pool, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj and reflecting pool, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Me at the Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Detail, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: Detail, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj and reflecting pool, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-271 Photo: The Taj and reflecting pool, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: A side inner gate, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Central gate, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The fake mosque, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The fake mosque, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Minaret, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The fake mosque, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Fields with straw wind breaks, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Fields with straw wind breaks, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The fake mosque, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Fields with straw wind breaks, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: Minaret and gate, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Minaret and gate, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Fields with straw wind breaks, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Minaret, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-001 Photo: The side mosque, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The side mosque, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The side of the Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The side of the Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The mosque with the sun rising, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Central dome of the Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj from the fake mosque, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The Taj from the fake mosque, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Side arch on the Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-298 Photo: Mosque through trees, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj through trees, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Reflection, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj and reflectiong pool, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj through trees, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Parrot?, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Parrot?, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Boat on the river, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Boat on the river, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Boat on the river, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Boat on the river, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Boat on the river, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Boat on the river, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj masque from the back, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj corner tower, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Ferry, Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Ferry, Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Women working, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Tower in river bank, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Left bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Ferry, Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Ferry, Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Ferry, Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Ferry, Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Ferry, Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Ferry, Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: The Taj, Boat landing, Right bank of the Yamuna River, Agra, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Entry: Woke up a six and stepped out on the balcony but it was too dark, too cold, and I was too sleepy so I reset the alarm for seven. A few minutes later a monkey started ripping the wood strips around the air-conditioner off, trying to get in my room - I chased it off by throwing a shoe at it, but the damage was done - to much adrenaline to sleep now. So I got up and headed to the Taj. The main gate was still closed at 6:30 - I'd thought it was supposed to open at six. I walked around looking for breakfast, but then decided to check the side gate and found it open. So I bought my ticket ($21!!), got thoroughly searched, checked in the illegal items I was carrying (my GPS, a lighter, and a flashlight - no batteries or electronics allowed, but cameras are ok), and went in. Entry: There were people around, but not many. It was way to dark to even take digital pictures, so I scored a spot in front of the reflecting pool and watched the sun rise. The domes of the Taj Mahal lightened from gray to an orangey white, and then to pure white as the sun rose. By the time the sun was completely up there were at least thirty people on the grounds so I decided to hustle. Most people seemed to be heading inside first, so I took advantage of the quiet and explored the two mosques (only one is real, the other faces the wrong way and was just built to mirror the real one - thus preserving the symmetry of the Taj) and walking along the wall above the river. Entry: Once I took my shoes up and climbed up to the marble platform I walked around it again. I especially liked the back side near the river - it's like all the other side, but fewer people, and it's in harmony with the river. I noticed that there appeared to be rows of straw standing up on the other river bank - I assumed to dry. Entering the Taj was a little disappointing. The inside of the tomb is pretty, but not what the big deal is about. There is beautifully crafted inlayed marble everywhere, but that's not what the Taj Mahal is about. The Taj isn't about decoration it's an architectural work - the architecture is the beauty. Entry: When I returned outside I walked around the platform again. Once again I stopped on the river side and hung out. There were some more of the green parrot like birds I saw at Agra Fort, and I noticed a little brightly painted boat being poled across the Yamuna River. I watched it do a few crossings to figure out where the landing was and resolved to try and get a ride across later. After exploring the gardens, galleries, and gates (the later two disappointing me with no access to the upper levels) I left. Entry: I wasn't sure how I felt about the entry fee. I did spend nearly three hours there, and it is very beautiful, but it's also impossible to take in the entire compound from so close for that you need to be some distance away. I wandered through the maze of streets on the east side of the Taj complex, but couldn't find the shortcut down to the river. After being lost for half an hour I gave up, back tracked, and walked down the major road. It was interesting to see the backside of the real most and the Taj wall. Last night we walked down the other side, but it was already to dark to see much. At the river, I found the boat landing without any problem (in front of a white police or army barrack). I haven't seen the boat mentioned in any guide books, but they must get tourist occasionally because the boatman spoke enough English to tell me the cost was Rs 50 (obviously highly inflated for tourists, since the locals couldn't afford that - but also very cheap compared to the cost of getting in the Taj). As the boat glided into the river the water was mirror smooth and I was able to take a few photos. About half way across the wind picked up and the reflections were lost. From the left bank the view was superb - it was still a bit hazy, and it would be much better in the evening due to the light, but at least here you could see the entire complex and get a feel for the delicate balance that is the Taj's magic. Entry: I wandered around on the far side of the river for an hour. Besides a half dozen locals tending the seedlings (the straw is up to protect them from the wind) I was the only one over there - such a change from the crowds that were flocking in when I left. Back in the hotel I packed and organized the photos I'd taken (the digital ones anyway). Then I got a bite to eat, hit the internet cafe, and checked out of my hotel (I'd decided to keep it for the day so I could leave my stuff there and shower before the overnight train). The tuktuk driver I hired to take me to the Raja ki Mandi train station (outside the center) jerked me around a bit and I ended up getting there right as the train was supposed to leave. I ran in and there was the train! I jumped on then decided to get out and find my specific car so I wouldn't have to push through the entire train to find my berth. Outside I realized it wasn't even the right train! I asked and was told my train was going to be fifteen minutes late - perfect. An hour later it got there and I fought through to my bunk where some people were very unhappy that I'd shown up. Everyone refused to make any room under the seats so I ended up having to put my pack on my bunk - not very comfortable for sleeping.

January
24
Varanasi, India
From Agra Found In: Country: India End Location: Varanasi, India Route: Overnight Train: Marudhar Express #4864: Raja ki Mandi (Agra) - Varanasi Lodging: Scindia Guest House Photo: Alamigir's Mosque and ghats, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Ghats on Gangas River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Ghats on Gangas River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Row boat and Gangas River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Stairs to ?, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Stairs to ?, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Wood piles and smoke at the Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Festival at Rajendra Prasad Ghat, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Festival at Rajendra Prasad Ghat, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Festival at Rajendra Prasad Ghat, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Kites on a temple tower, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Garlanded cow, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Garlanded cow, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Floating candles, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Festival at Rajendra Prasad Ghat, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Festival at Rajendra Prasad Ghat, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Entry: I slept very poorly last night. Besides being cramped it was very cold and I was shivering most of the night. At about four thirty most of the people on the train got off (at Lucknow) and most of the people getting on didn't seem interested in sleeping. At around seven I gave up and got up as we were supposed to get it in just over an hour anyway - at least there is plenty of room to sit then. I sat and talked with a group of medical students from the university in Lucknow, studied the train timetables to figure out how they worked, and read. Finally the train got to Varanasi at noon - 15 hours after leaving Agra. I dealt with the nightmare tuktuk drivers - they can't get to the central river ghats due to streets being closed due to a festival so they won't get a commission, hence they don't want to take me to the guest house I want to go to. Finally got one of them to drop me off near where I wanted and his friend showed me the way through the maze of little streets to the guesthouse. I got the last room they had. It's not as nice as the one in Agra and it's more more expensive, but it's still better than I expected (hot water!), and still cheap - and I think it will be a lot quieter - plus it's right above the Gangas (Ganges) River with an incredible view from the roof. Entry: As I hadn't eaten anything yet I set off to get something to eat at a recommended guest house nearby, but I couldn't find it, and just ended up walking all the ghats. I walked for nearly four hours total. I first headed down the river along all the ghats (foundations for platforms and building on the river - most with stairs leading down to the water). I saw lots of people bathing, praying, playing, and even doing laundry. It was all very colorful and fascinating - like something out of a movie. On the way back I couldn't decide if I was disappointed about not seeing any funeral pyres - I didn't really want to, but on the other hand it's something I so strongly associate with the Ganges. Back in front of the guest house I put off eating again and continued up river. Maybe fifty meters further on and I saw piles of wood and smoke. Despite my thought train minutes before it didn't even occur to me what it was until a body was carried by me, then another, and another. There were at least six fires going at all times, and they were all in use every time I walked by (at least six times) I don't know how long the fire burns for each funeral, but there seemed to be a constant stream of bodies coming in - even the last time I walked by at 9pm - I wonder if it goes on around the clock? In a country of over 800 million Hindus - all of which would be cremated on the Gangas if they could afford it, I'd guess it might go on around the clock. Entry: I ran into a festival further up the river on Dr. Rajendra Prasad Ghat. There were yellow and orange flags, tons of people and flowers - even the cows had garlands draped over them. Back at the guest house I took a well needed shower - I tried not to think about the ash that ends up on everything - but still was desperate for a shower. Then I headed out to get something to eat - again. Back at the cremation ghat I got distracted it was very surreal - like a scene out of an Indiana Jones movie - the ancient bricks of the ghat lit by the gruesome fires surrounded by crowds of people dressed much like they would have been many hundreds of years ago. Eerie, scary, repulsive, but fascinating. Entry: I was finally distracted by a few tiny lights out on the river - candles. I walked back down to the festival to watch the floating candles and flowers get launched. Once I was down there I found a huge ceremony consisting of five (six?) men on podiums dancing, chanting and waving fire around while what sounded like hundreds of bells were ringing - Obviously I stayed to watch. More Indiana Jones type sets - the fires were in large metal bowls shaped like a coiled cobra and the men were swinging them over their heads. There were less candles floated than I'd imagined - tens instead of thousands, but it was still magical and the ceremony certainly made up for it. I finally stopped at a random guest house to eat - and had horrible food. Back at my guest house I read and drank water.

January
25
Varanasi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Varanasi, India Lodging: Scindia Guest House Photo: Rooftop view of the Gangas River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Alamgir Mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Minarets, Alamgir Mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Boats on the river, Alamgir Mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Boats on the river, Alamgir Mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-002 Photo: Temple roof, Alamgir Mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Birds, Alamgir Mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Bird in flight, Alamgir Mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Monkeys, Alamgir Mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Candles on river, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Launching Candles, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Entry: I slept in a little. When I finally got up I took a long shower, took my laundry in to be washed (it's supposed to be holy to have your clothes washed in the Gangas, plus I don't have any clean clothes left), and wandered down to the Shanti to have breakfast. The Shanti was recommended in my guidebook and was where I tried to go when I first got here yesterday. I found the food ok, but far better than last night. After breakfast I came back to my guest house and worked on my journal and email for awhile. In the afternoon I hiked north along the river to the Alamgir Mosque - an imposing stone mosque that dominates that part of the river. Getting to the mosque involved several hundred steps and some twisting alleys. The mosque itself isn't open to non-Muslims, but for a fee (10 Rs) you can climb to the roof (just what I wanted more stairs) and the view from the top is spectacular. I spent a good fifteen minutes admiring the view (and catching my breath) and then another fifteen minutes chasing monkeys and the green parrot like birds around trying to get photos. Entry: From the mosque I walked back to Jalasayin Ghat determined to make myself watch some of the burnings. I stopped on a balcony overlooking the burning platforms. I'd planned on watching an entire cremation all the way through but it wasn't necessary. Yesterday I'd guessed there must be at least six fires going - today looking down from above I realized the number is well over twelve, so there is some phase of the ceremony going on at all times. The body is carried down to the river covered in gold and red cloth on a stretcher. At the river it is carefully bathed and covered again. Then it sits waiting for it's turn (there always seemed to be a queue of three or four). Different amounts of wood are used - I assume depending on the cost - but are stacked at least two layers, then the body is unwrapped to a single layer (sometimes white, sometimes gold) and put on the pile, then another layer or two of wood and some sandalwood pieces are scattered around the top (to control the smell) . All the coverings (mostly gold cloth) are stuffed underneath the pile with a lot of dry straw and the fire is brought down from the temple. depending on how the fire and cloth burns the results can be a little goulish - I definitely saw recognizable bones in some of the pyres - but the bigger (more expensive?) fires seemed to keep everything pretty veiled. Near the end there is a tender who sits there with some longish sticks and picks up pieces and places them in the middle of the fire. When the fire is done burning buckets of water are brought up from the river and cast on the smoldering remains. A young girl then goes through and picks up certain pieces and ashes which she puts in a bag - I assume to be dumped in the river. Surprisingly, the whole thing really didn't bother me - though the ashes and smoke still make me a little queasy if I think about it. Entry: I spent over an hour on the internet - a very slow connection and some problems left me there longer than I'd planned. I wandered down to the festival where the same ceremony (with the men, fire, and bell) as last night seemed to be going on. Maybe it's because the wind died down but tonight the candles on the water were more like what I expected last night - hundreds (thousands?) of them sketched out the flow of the river on the darkness.

January
26
Varanasi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Varanasi, India Lodging: Scindia Guest House Photo: Dusk on the river, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Entry: I spent the entire morning (more than four hours) with the guide book, train timetables, and map trying to make plans from here. At the end of it I had three possibilities. The first was I could head to Mumbai. It's 30 hours on a train, but gets me to the south before it gets too hot - this was my original plan. The second idea was to head back to Rajasthan and spend some more time in that region. There's a lot I want to see there, but from what I've heard I'm going to have problems getting a train ticket, plus I'm not real happy about backtracking that far (almost completely across the country). The third idea was to head to Calcutta and try to get a flight to the Andaman Islands. This has the advantage of getting me off the tourist track, and the Andaman Islands are supposed to have fantastic beaches and diving. According to the guide book I might have some major problems getting flights, but if I did, I could fly back into Chennai (Madras) and again end up in the south before it gets to hot. I'd also be able to see Calcutta and Puri, both of which I had decided I wasn't going to be able to see. Entry: I left my room with the plan to go with number three - if I could get the flight out to the Andaman's - so I was off to find the Air India office. I asked the manager of the hotel for directions, but when he asked where I wanted to go he told me it would be impossible to get tickets in Varanasi - I'd have to buy them in Delhi or Calcutta. Over lunch I met an Australian guy who'd lived in Calcutta and after talking to him I decided to go. If I can't get the flight then I'll train down the east coast. I ended up spending a couple hours sitting on the roof in the sun talking to Chris - he's spent a lot of time in India. Entry: Shortly before dusk I set out to check email. After I walked along the ghats then headed up to the Shanti for dinner. I met Chris and a couple other guys and had a few beers and talked about the Kumbh Mela in Allahabad which all the others had been to. One of the guys gave me the number of a guest house where I could probably get accommodation (my great fear of going since 30 million people are supposedly there - I've heard claimed it's the largest gathering of people ever). So I think I might keep my room here, and head up to the Mela for a night the day after tomorrow, then maybe another day here and then off to Calcutta! I also made plans to meet Daniel, a Dutch guy, before dawn tomorrow morning to hire a boat to take us out on the river - a ambitious plan since it was already past midnight and I'd had four beers.

January
27
Varanasi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Varanasi, India Lodging: Scindia Guest House Photo: Sunrise, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Sunrise, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Festival, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Festival, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Festival, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Sunrise, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Boats and ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Sunrise, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Sunrise, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Bathers, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Bathers, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Festival, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Festival, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Sunrise, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Sunrise, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Manmandir Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manmandir Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manmandir Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manmandir Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manmandir Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: The Dom Raja's House, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Observatory, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Observatory, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manikarnika Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Boats, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: River temple, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manikarnika Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manikarnika Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manikarnika Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Manikarnika Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Manikarnika Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Riverside shrine alcove, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: ?Manikarnika Ghat?, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Temples, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Temples, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Manikarnika Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Ghat, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Bathers, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Temple ruins, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Bathers, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Bathers, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Alamgir Mosque, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Bathers, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Bathers, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Alamgir Mosque, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Bathers, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Alamgir Mosque, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Alamgir Mosque, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Alamgir mosque, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Ghats upriver, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Ghats upriver, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-287 Photo: Upriver ghats, Ganges River, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Alamgir mosque, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Temple roof, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Entry: I got up early and, some what surprisingly, felt pretty good. I was at Dasasvamedha Ghat by 6:30, but no sign of Daniel. At a quarter to seven I gave up and hired a boat by myself. The boat ride was very relaxing even with the other hundred tourist boats out there. There was a fantastic sunrise, and the view from the river was from a much different angle and I was able to see the buildings and ghats much better than looking up at them from their bases. The rowing was slow and appropriate for the stately pace of the river at dawn. It was also possible to take pictures of Manikarnika Ghat (the burning ghat), though probably still was not proper to do so. After nearly an hour on the river I started to feel very tired and in general not to great (last night's beers sneaking up on me). I had the boat man drop me off in front of my guest house and two hours after getting up I was back in bed (with ear plugs). Entry: When I got up again around noon I headed out to get something to eat. I started a new book, got very involved in it and besides a short email break spent the entire day reading. Stupidly, given that I need my sleep for tomorrow and the rarity of books, I stayed up very late finishing it.

January
28
Allahabad, India
From Varanasi Found In: Country: India End Location: Allahabad, India Entry: I tried to sleep in, but after being up until five reading it still wasn't anywhere near enough sleep - especially since I was considering an all nighter tonight. I got my gear together to take with me to Allahabad - basically I decided to take my cameras, sleeping bag, and the clothes I was wearing. On my way out of the guesthouse I told the manager my plans. He told me that I needed to be out of my room by the 30th (the day after tomorrow), and that I should get my train ticket to Calcutta immediately as it's likely to sell out way in advance He also told me that my plan of spending the night in Allahabad was "not possible" and that I should go up in the morning, but then I would miss the dawn. Entry: I started walking towards the main ghat (Dasasvamedha) since I need to walk out of the closed and crowded streets until I can catch a rickshaw or tuktuk to the train / bus stations. As soon as I turned off the river I realized that though I've been here five days, I've never left the river side - there's still a huge city that I haven't seen. After a half hour of walking I found a tuktuk and headed for the train station. At the train station I was able to go to the tourist desk and buy my train tickets immediately - there were none available for the 30th, so I'm leaving Wednesday night (the 31st). There were also no nice berths available so I'm also booked in the bottom class again - at least it was cheap, less than $6 for a 13+ hour train ride. From he train station I walked to the bus stop and got there just as three busses were leaving for Allahabad. They all claimed to have room, but were absolutely packed. Since I wasn't willing to stand during the three or four hour trip I decided to wait. About an hour later an empty bus pulls up right in front of me, but despite my best efforts is nearly packed again by the time I get on. I finally manage to score window a window seat - it's in the back row so it's a rough trip, but it had a little extra leg room. Entry: The trip ended up being quicker than expected, only three hours. When it got to the end of it's route I could not figure out where I was so I just followed the vast numbers of people (there were a lot of busses) down a dirt street. After a half hour hike we ended up looking over a vast city lit up like Las Vegas (no neon - but lots of chasing lights). A little bit further on and I realized there were no buildings it was all tents! Clearly I was on one of the Mela grounds (there are three that I knew of), but which one, and had I gotten there by walking away from, or towards the city? What struck me the most was how organized everything was - here was an endless (or so it seemed in the light fog) tent city laid out in a grid with street lights, roads, water, and toilet facilities (of a kind) in India! This temporary gypsy city was far better organized and supplied than any place I'd been to in India. I wandered for a bit and decided that the worst case was I'd spend the night waling (there is plenty to see), or camp in the rough - lots of people doing that too. Then I found a river (but which one, the Gangas or the Yamuna?) with a series of pontoon bridges crossing it. I knew there were bridges involved in getting to or from the city so I crossed. Another hour hike got me to the city where I was able to get a rickshaw to the right area, where I was able to find the guesthouse recommended to me and they had a dorm bed available! I talked with some of the other people in the dorms (a pretty even mix of foreigners and Indians), had a delicious dinner of curried veggies, and set my alarm for five - want to be back at the Mela grounds by sunrise (about 6:30). Entry: I was a little surprised at being able to find a bed. I was here for the Kumbh Mela - the largest religious festival in the world - and quite possibly the largest gathering of people ever! It only happens every 12 years at the confluence of the three holy rivers, the Yamuna, the Gangas (Ganges), and [supposedly] the Sarasvati (the mystical underground river of enlightenment), and one of four spots where Vishnu accidentally spilled a drop of amrit (the nectar of immortality). All Hindus are supposed to make at least one pilgrimage here during their lives. Bathing at the confluence during the festival is supposed to wash away a lifetime of sins. They're expecting more that 30 million people to show during the six week festival, with peak crowds to be around 20 million - tomorrow is a peak day.

January
29
Varanasi, India
From Allahabad Found In: Country: India End Location: Varanasi, India Lodging: Scindia Guest House Photo: Elaborate tent lighting, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Elaborate tent lighting, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Bathers, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Sunrise, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Sunrise, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Sadhus with flag, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Sadhus, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-290 Photo: Bathers at the confluence, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Bathers at the confluence, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Bathers at the confluence, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Bathers at the confluence, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Bathers at the confluence, Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Kumbh Mela, Allahabad, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 350-541 Photo: Shrine mask, Fort, Allahabad, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Entry: Due to world class snoring and constant gangs of people roving by outside I gave up trying to sleep a little after four. By 4:30 I was on my way - since I had no idea where I was or how to get to the Melas grounds I just followed the crowds. Sometime before six I got to the grounds. The bridges were not too crowded and were still easy to cross so I headed to the far side of the Gangas River (where I was lost last night). I wandered pretty aimlessly taking pictures when it started to get light. Overall I was still amazed at how well organized things were. Entry: Just before sunrise it really started to get crowded. The sunrise was a little bit of a disappointment after yesterday's brilliant show. After the sunrise I wandered along the river watching people bathe, paint their faces, and shave their heads (except for one knot of hair at the back). I wandered in to see some of the lesser gurus (nails through their tongues, people who hadn't laid down in 30 years, men sitting cross-legged with human skulls in their laps, etc.). Eventually I just started to go with the flow of the crowd. It was nearly impossible to do otherwise, and since I didn't know where to go the crowd gave me direction. I managed to get out of the flow and into an eddy (I'd started to think of the crowd as a river by this point) to watch a parade crossing onto one of the pontoon bridges. It was a procession of Swamis and Gurus seated on elaborate thrones (generally towed by tractors, though sometimes carried), and surrounded by followers and flags. I'd been told that the beginning of the parade was the best part, so after fifteen minutes I slipped back into the stream and continued exploring. Another fifteen minutes ad brought me in a big circle back to the procession in time to see hundreds of naked Sadhus (holy men) caring a giant flag - this was the India I remembered from National Geographic. After the Sadhus went by I realized that if the parade with all the important people was crossing the river I should probably be on the other side as well so I maneuvered into a current heading for a bridge. Entry: On the other side of the bridge their was one main current so I just continued to flow with the crowd. Eventually I was looking down at the confluence - where the Gangas (Ganges), Yamuna, and Sarasvati (mystical underground river of enlightenment) rivers meet - also where Vishnu spilled the drop of amrit. This was truly an amazing sight - a unbelievable amount of people walking out in to the shallow waters with boats on both sides and an endless variety of colored flags. I got out of the tide of people and hung out taking pictures as best as I could. I think the light haze is going to ruin most of the photos I took, but I had to try. I watched the Sadhus sprint as a group into the water and start washing. Everywhere I looked their were people shivering trying to dry off and get warm after the chilly water. Entry: After hanging out at the confluence for an hour I decided I was through with the crowds and started trying to get out - progress was slow. Eventually I headed off towards one of the tent cities attracted by both the lesser crowds and an incredible variety of flags (bicycles, swords, pigs, knives, Sanskrit writing, and carrots were just a few of the designs). From the camp I headed towards the fort. I knew that Allahabad was somewhere on the other side of the fort so I joined a line of people entering through a giant arch. My plan had been to cross the fort and continue on through the fort and back into the city. It didn't work that way. The fort is still used by the military and was only open for a progression through its many shrines. After another hour of trying to get out and being searched twice (they made me take the batteries out of my cameras) I ended up coming out of the fort by another arch on the same side that I'd gone in. I hiked around the fort and ended up in one of the largest markets I've seen (certainly the largest outside of Africa). I wandered around the market some but by this time I was just tired of walking so I left and continued towards where I thought Allahabad was. After the market their was a giant carnival or fair. The snake charmers (dozens of them), rides, and circus acts were very enticing, but my feet and legs just hurt, and I was definitely over the crowds. Finally I ended up in normal city streets. There were tons of people still but more manageable. I stopped to look at some food and was instantly served ahead of the people waiting - and they wouldn't even let me pay. In fact the best part of the entire Mela experience was the people. I'd group them into three categories. The first just ignored me (a welcome reaction after typical India). The second seemed amused at my presence and smiled at me. The third wanted to talk. Why was I there? What did this place mean to me? How did I know about the Mela? Was I Hindu? Was I going to convert? Did I know any Hindus in my country? On and on the questions went - these people were proud that the rest of the world might know about the Kumbh Mela. No one was trying to take advantage of me or sell me anything - it was all a very welcomed relief. Entry: After eating (I had to strenuously turn down seconds) I continued down the street seeing nothing that looked familiar. I finally bargained with a rickshaw driver. I was sure I was being ripped off, but I couldn't think of any other way to find my guest house so I went with him. It was a bargain, I'd gone the wrong way and was on the far side of one of the Mela grounds from Allahabad. Plus after six nonstop hours of fighting crowds it felt so good to sit down! Entry: Back at the guest house I checked out and walked down to the bus station. I immediately caught a bus, I even had a seat, but it was definitely not comfortable. It was a slow ride back, the bus driver stopped twice for chai - once for forty five minutes! - so by the time we got back into Varanasi the traffic was very heavy. I walked back to the train station to try and find an ATM and was told there isn't one in town. I caught a tuktuk to as near to the ghats as the traffic and closed roads would allow, then hiked the rest of the way to the river. I stopped to check the internet on the way then headed back to my guest house (I'd kept my room). At the guest house the manager seemed happy and a little surprised to see me and told me that I could keep my room tomorrow. There was no power so I decided to skip the shower I so desperately needed and went out to get dinner - besides the street food I hadn't eaten yet. I was back in my room by eight. I spent a few hours sorting the digital pictures I'd taken at the Kumbh and trying to work on my journal but I was exhausted.

January
30
Varanasi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Varanasi, India Lodging: Scindia Guest House Entry: When I woke up it was ten o'clock - I'd slept for eleven hours! I spent the rest of the morning getting caught up in my journal as I was three days behind. My goal for the day was to see the boservatory, get off the ghats, and see if I could find a bookstore. I walked down to the ghat where the observatory was built. It was built on top of an old palace and is very similar to the observatory Jaipur (built by the same Shah). I had seen some of the giant instruments from my river cruise a couple mornings ago, so I knew where it was, so I climbed all the step, found the right passage, and came to a locked gate. So much for the guide book claiming it was open nine to four thirty every day. The gate and lock looked pretty weathered, like maybe it hasn't been opened for a long time. Entry: I walked down to the main (Dasasvamedha) ghat and then headed up the main street. The crowds were pretty thick and there were various groups of boys franticly dancing to drums around mobile shrines bellowing thick clouds of insence. I stopped for a bit and realized that I wasn't marveling at the ceremony, but rather how quickly the unexpected and absurd seem to become normal in India. A few blocks in I went in to an internet cafe to ask where a bookstore was. While there I checked my email and thn ended up spending a lot of money ordering a underwater housing for my digital camera - if I get to go out to the Andaman islands I should have some great photos! I grabbed some food from a little cafe (the bread and curry that was given to me in Allahabad yesterday) and then continued looking in vain for the bookstore. Entry: I ended up back down at the ghat without having seen the bookstore, so I decided to try and find the one listed in my guide book. I walked about fortyfive minutes down to the farthest southern ghat and started looking. I didn't find a bookstore - though I did see two signs advertising some - but I did wander around the streets of a completely different (more working class?) neighborhood. As it got dark I headed back down to the river (the only chance I had at finding my way around), and then headed up to the Shanti guest house. I spent the evening hanging out reading, having diner, then watching the late movie on the television. Around midnight I walked back to my place (noteing that the burning ghat was still going full speed, they must operate around the clock).

January
31
Varanasi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Varanasi, India Route: Train: Gorakhpur - Howrah Express #5050: Varanasi - Calcutta (Howrah) Lodging: Train: Train: Gorakhpur - Howrah Express #5050: Varanasi - Calcutta Photo: Sunset, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: View towards river, Varanasi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Entry: The goal for today was to find a bookstore as I was almost out of reading material and I have some very long train rides ahead. I had a leisurely morning packing, and checked out of my guest house around noon. I had directions to a bookstore, but it was in the same area (Dasasvamedha) I was looking in yesterday so I had my doubts. However, I had no problems finding the recommended bookstore, and another one, just around the corner from where I had been looking. Spent a couple hours browsing the disorganized stack and walked out with four books (Salmon Rushdie's Haroun and the Sea of Stories, Jeffry Archer's First Among Equals, Shakespeare's Twelfth Knight, and John Grisham's The Testament). I hit the internet cafe then spent the evening at the Shanti over an early dinner reading the Grisham novel. Entry: After six I headed back to my guest house to pick up my gear and head for the train station - my train wasn't until nine, but I didn't want to deal with walking with my pack after it got too dark. I had directions to find a rickshaw by heading straight up from the guest house. Unfortunately in Varanasi there is no such thing as a straight road, or for that matter a road that runs more than two blocks. So about ten minutes into my hike I was completely lost. I wandered then asked, then wandered some more, and then asked again. After an hour I finally found a street big enough for vehicles and shortly after found a tuktuk that would take me for thirty rupees. The ride to the station was a nightmare - this was the worst driver I'd encountered in India (and that's saying a lot!) Somehow we made it to the station with only a few minor sideswipes, and then when I paid him he held up the money and demanded more, repeating thirty but holding up four fingers. I counted out "ten, twenty, thirty" then he said "forty" and insisted that's what he meant. Thirty was the fair price and what I've paid the other three times I've been to the train station so I refused and he yelled at me until I asked him to get the police. Entry: Of course the train was a half hour late arriving so I ended up with nearly two hours to sit in the cafeteria drinking chai. When the train came everyone rushed to get on and then we sat there for forty-five minutes. Plus it's the dirtiest of the trains I've seen so far, and the top bunk I'd reserved is actually a middle bunk (the worst - it constantly gets bumped into, you can't go to bed until late and you have to get up early)...

February, 2001

February
1
Calcutta, India
From Varanasi Found In: Country: India End Location: Calcutta, India Route: Train: Gorakhpur - Howrah Express #5050: Varanasi - Calcutta (Howrah) Entry: Didn't sleep very well last night, though since I was able to store my pack underneath the seats it was a lot more comfortable than the Agra - Varanasi train. The problem was it was too loud, and every time I drifted off someone would grab my foot or my ass - the middle bunk is what people use as a handrail. And at seven o'clock my compartment mates woke me up so they could put up the seats - very annoying as by 7:30 one of them was asleep on the top bunk (which stays down all the time), and the other was stretched out on the seat next to me. Entry: By the time we woke up the train was running more than two hours late, and I quickly finished the Grisham novel I started yesterday. Luckily it was pretty interesting landscape passing by. This part of India seems to be mostly rice paddies and small banana plantations. It was fascinating watching the ingenious (though primitive) ways that the irrigate the paddies. Entry: The train pulled into Howrah (Calcutta's biggest station) around 2:30 - 18 hours after I boarded it. The taxi was a bit of a hassle but I teamed up with a two a French and Japanese travelers and we got to Sudder Street without being ripped off too badly. I had a couple hotels from the guide book, but they were all full. I finally ended up paying too much for a dingy room a half block off the street. I was too tired to do any major exploring, so I walked the length of Sudder, checked my email, and then tried to get tickets out to the Andaman Islands. Unfortunately the soonest available flight wouldn't be for two and a half weeks! I'll check some other places tomorrow, and then give up. If I can't go sooner than that I'll consider flying from Chennai in the South. I had a fantastic chicken masala for dinner then wandered around some more before retiring.

February
2
Calcutta, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Calcutta, India Entry: I slept is some, then set out to explore and find another travel agent or two. Around the corner and down the street a found a guy sitting on the sidewalk making these elaborate puzzles out of wire. I started playing with one and ten minutes later was sitting on the ground next to him. Forty five minute later I had solved a couple of them and bought one of every puzzle he had for 80 rupee (<$2) - fifteen puzzles total, and he promised me that he'd have at least ten others if I came back later. Back on Sudder Street I tried another travel agent at random. This one told me that I couldn't fly before March 10th! I guess the good news is that with that much difference between agents I might be able to find one who can fly me next week. I think tomorrow I'll go try to find the Indian Air office. In the afternoon I got on the internet and went on a successful quest for a bank machine. My quest led me by the old and new market building - something I'll definitely have to check out in the next few days - though even walking by them got me massively hassled by porters (you need a guide! Not guide, you need a porter or you'll get lost!) Back at the hotel I got out the puzzles to have a look at them for a few minutes and nearly two hours later I'd solved them all. At night I went to see the newest Clint Eastwood movie Space Cowboys - not fantastic, but kept me a entertained. In my room I ended up finding some problems in one of my programs, Pike, and ended up staying up late fixing them.

February
3
Calcutta, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Calcutta, India Entry: I spent the morning reading and writing in my journal. In the afternoon I decided to go find the Indian Airlines office. I'd already realized that I wasn't going to get to go to the Andaman Islands but I didn't really have anything that I wanted to do in Calcutta and I've got to hang out until the 6th so I used the search as something to do. The walk ended up being farther than I thought it would be - about 45 minutes, I'd been thinking 15. On the way I say a couple mosques, some dense shopping areas, and a lot of decaying colonial buildings that have a sort of faded glory. Some of the building look like they've just started to be restored - it'll be interesting to see what central Calcutta looks like in ten years. Entry: At the airlines office people were very friendly but it was the same story - flights full. I asked if it would be possible to waitlist the flight on the 8th - my theory was that since I'm stuck here until the 6th I could check to see if I got on then leave if not. But I was told that there was no reason to waitlist as I'd have to buy the ticket first and it would be very unlikely as there were already thirty people waitlisted, but she suggested that I go talk to the duty manager. As I didn't have anything else to do I waited around to go in and talk. He was very polite, poured me some tea, listed to me for about three minutes then said - go buy your ticket then come back here and I'll confirm it! About half an hour after entering walked out with my confirmed tickets for a sold out flight! I was completely amazed at how friendly and helpful the office was - it was still a massive bureaucracy, but it was efficient and friendly. Entry: I spent the rest of the afternoon happily excited about going to the Andamans. I took advantage of my energy and started getting caught up with my email backlog. For dinner I went to the same place I went to my first night and had another delicious chicken tikka masala.

February
4
Calcutta, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Calcutta, India Entry: I spent the morning working on my journal and email again. At the internet cafe I checked my packages status on the FedEx web page and was disturbed to find out that it had been held for more than 24 hours with the note "Customs exception". I had no idea what that meant, but I was a little nervous because I only had one day of buffer between when it was supposed to arrive here in Calcutta and when I am flying out to the Andaman Islands. I decided to go find the FedEx office and ask what, if anything, I could do to hurry the process along. I'd managed to find a street address on the net (FedEx only gave my parents the street and building name). Luckily the street is only around the corner, so I set off walking. I kept an eye on the numbers and they got closer and closer, but then the street ended. I crossed to the other side and found a higher number (55) so started walking back up and then found a lower number (51), but not the number I was looking for (53/A). It took me over an hour to realize that the numbers seemed to follow a little ways down the cross streets and finally I found the Blue Dart / FedEx office down a little narrow alley that I'd walked by at least four times. Then I realized it was Sunday. Entry: I was hoping to head up to the English cemetery, recommended to me as one of the most peaceful and powerful places in Calcutta, but then I realized that it was two forty-five and I had also been advised that it closed at three. I tried a new restaurant (JoJo's) for a late lunch, but it didn't come close to being as good as the first place I'd tried (Blue Sky Cafe). I decided to go check out the old and new market building, but both of them were also closed up tight. So I wandered the streets. My plan had been to just generally look around some more, and also see what movies were playing. None of the movies showing were at all interesting to me (or I'd already seen them). I did find my puzzle man again and bought seven more different puzzles (bringing my total to twenty four - one of the ones I bought was a repeat). I ended up spending the rest of the afternoon / evening reading. I went back to the Blue Sky Cafe for a light dinner and was then just walking around when I ran in to Criss - an Australian guy I'd been hanging out with in Varanasi. He's heading out tomorrow, but he gave me a list of things to see and do in Calcutta (he's the one that originally recommended the cemetery). I ended up finishing off the night reading over a couple beers at an up market hotel.

February
5
Calcutta, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Calcutta, India Entry: Slept in and woke up feeling a little "blue" - unmotivated to do anything and not happy. No unhappy, but just kind of blah. I checked the internet to see what the status of my package was - it was listed as in Calcutta, but not delivered yet. Last night I'd talked to someone who had recieved a package via FedEx and they'd had problems finding it - it didn't go to the building it was supposed to. So I thought I'd get a jump on the possibility of a broblem and go to the FedEx office. Thanks to yesterday's explorations I had no problem finding the office and there they were able to use the phone and track down that my package was ready to be picked up, but not there. They gave me directions to the place I needed to go and off I set. It was a half an hour walk in the other direction from where I'd gone before. I didn't see anything that was remarkable about this part of Calcutta - no decaying colonial buildings, no vibrant new growth, nothing - it was kind of blah, like my mood. I would have never found the shipping office if it hadn't been for a very good map that the guy at the other building drew for me. It was down a narrow alley through an unmarked door. Very dodgy, but they had my package. And I only had to pay $170+ duty on it (this for goods with a declared value of $250, that I'm going to take with me when I leave!) Hopefully I'll be able to get most of that refunded when I leave India, but it seems unlikely. Entry: I walked back to Sutter Street and spent some more time on the internet then went back to my room to play with my new toys. The package was stuff for my digital camera - a spare battery and memory card, but mainly an underwater housing. The housing looks perfect and I can't wait to try it - Andaman Islands here I come! While playing with the housing and trying to read the manual the light in my room started to flash on and off - of the three lights in my room this was the only one that worked - this was a problem. I left my keys with the desk and they promised they'd fix it and I headed out. I decided to explore the markets and walked through both the old market nd new market buildings, but I wasn't in it. The porters are looking for a commission and they're a nightmare. I was running the risk of loosing my temper so I gave up. I went to Dominoes Pizza - it seemed the most "normal" thing I could do so I thought it might make me feel better - but it only made me feel ill. I went back to the internet cafe then went to my favorite restaruant for an orange lassie before heading back to my room. At the guest house I was told the light was fixed, but it wasn't so then I sat there in the dark fuming while they ran to buy a bulb. The new bulb was dim and certainly didn't replace the flourecent light that had failed, but the important thing I tried to keep in mind was that it was better than it had been.

February
6
Calcutta, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Calcutta, India Entry: Woke up feeling very not right. I had a slight fever and headache, but the problem was I was very shaky and unsteady. I tried to sleep, and when that failed I read or worked on my handheld. I thought about taking something, but I couldn't figure out what might help. Finally around five I started to feel better and ventured out of the hotel room for the first time. I was still feeling really weak, but that could just be because I hadn't eaten in twenty-four hours. I had a big diner, and felt ok, but I didn't really enjoy it - I was still worried about the way I felt. After diner I took a pair of pants to the tailor to have some zipper put on the front cargo pockets. They tend to fall open anytime I actually have anything in them. Entry: Started going through my pack to see what I could send home. It might have been the mood, but I got brutal and pulled everything out of my pack. A lot of stuff is either going to get left behind or sent home tomorrow!

February
7
Calcutta, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Calcutta, India Entry: Woke up feeling tired but healthy. I spent the morning ad early afternoon running errands. I went by the tailor but my pants weren't ready (I had him put zippers on the front cargo pockets). I finished getting my gear together for the post office. There was only one person in front of me, so it only took an hour to send a small parcel home. It's amazing the amount of effort that they put in to it - the box cut down to exactly the right size, then a linen wrapping was sewn together around it (very nice stitching), then the seams were all sealed with melted wax and a stamp! Then started the paperwork and stamps and... Entry: Well when I escaped I was ready for some outdoor time. I headed for the old English cemetery which I'd heard was fascinating. I thought I knew how to get there, but an hour later I pulled out my guide book and realized I'd been going the exact opposite direction! It took me an hour more to walk back and by then I was feeling a little off again so I decided not to go. I went book shopping again. I really didn't need any more books, but I found a place that would exchange books so I figured it was better to have unread books than deadweight. Then I picked up my pants - they were perfect, now the pockets won't fall open when I have stuff in them. I decided to wander around the neighborhood one more time - I visited the puzzle man (and bought two more - for a total of twenty-seven! The other twenty-five got sent home already), walked around, and checked the internet. I went back to the hotel and decided I need to shave - it's been a week. I asked at the front desk for a bucket of hot water. A few minutes later they brought be a coil to put in my bucket. Like a giant version of the tea cup water heaters. Electricity and water - it can't be safe, but it worked great. I started in on the packing, there's plenty of room now, but I've got to figure out how I want it organized (and what to do with eight extra books!) Somehow in all my excitement to find stuff to send home last night I put aside the things that I was sending the package for! It's just cables and bit's and pieces from my digital camera or the stuff I just bought, but still it was the whole reason for sending a package. Entry: I arranged for a three AM taxi to the airport and then went to my favorite restaurant for my favorite dinner - again (chicken tikka masala, garlic cheese nan, and an orange lassie). Back at the room I finished packing around midnight and tried to get some sleep - that two thirty alarm was going to be brutal.

February
8
Port Blair, South Andaman, India
From Calcutta Found In: Country: India End Location: Port Blair, South Andaman, India Route: Indian Airlines, flight 7285: Calcutta - Port Blair Entry: I'm not sure if it was too noisy, or I was just to wired, but at two o'clock I gave up trying to sleep. I got up finished packing and read for half an hour. The hotel management was trying to tell me I should leave between two and two thirty, but I had told them I wanted to leave at three. Since I had nothing better to do and I was still a little worried about my ticket I went searching for the car. It took us a while to get going but about ten to three we were on our way. The car barely ran and I'm sure we never hit forty miles an hour. It didn't matter, thirty minutes later I was at the airport (the hotel staff had said at least an hour?!?) My ticket said check in would start 2 hours before the flight and everyone must be checked in 45 minutes prior to departure. However, at the airport the guards told me they wouldn't open until an hour before departure - so I had over an hour of sitting in by far the worst mosquito zone I've seen in India - I must have killed close to a hundred of the buggers. But, on the bright side I was the first one to check in! The flight left on time, and actually landed twenty minutes early. Entry: I had the name of a decent hotel from my guidebook, and they had a bus waiting. When on saw how nice the bus was I started to worry that my two year old guidebook might be dated. I decided it was only for one night, and I need the sleep, so I'd be willing to pay up to $20 for a splurge. When I got to the lobby I upgraded that $30 max. When I asked how much the cheapest room was the manager held up two fingers - I said "tThousand??" (about $45) and he laughed and said "Hundred." My room is nothing fantastic, but it's big, spotlessly clean with a double bed and a balcony for less than $4.50 - I even have my own bathroom, though it's across the hall. Entry: I asked about tickets for tomorrows ferry and was told that I had buy them between nine and eleven or they would sell out. As it was only supposed to be a ten minute walk and it was 8:30 I thought I'd go get it taken care of. I was looking for the Marine Jetty or Phoenix Jetty - how hard could that be? Unfortunately one of the issues with living on a small island is lots of waterfront. It seems like everything in Port Blair is named Marine this or Phoenix waterfront that! The walk was nice. Port Blair is like decaying colonial cities everywhere in the tropics, except the building weren't as grand as some, but then neither are they as decayed. The city is hardly build up, just a few streets of one and two story buildings, and the roads are in immaculate condition (at least what I saw). There is a million different colors of green in the low jungle with palm trees everywhere. The only problem is it is hot. And sticky! Entry: When I finally got to the Jetty the ticket office had just opened and I got in the queue. I don't want to spend any more time than needed in Port Blair - my first goal is the nearby beach island of Havelock, also known for its diving. so I really had no option other than to wait in line in the stifling heat. An hour later I had my ticket - I felt pretty silly waiting for an hour for a ticket that only cost thirty cents, but it's India. One surprise was the line was fairly orderly, except for women. They don't (aren't allowed to?) stand in line so they bunch around the front and jam their money around people into the window - very strange. Entry: I walked around the waterfront for a little then decided I really didn't want to see anymore of the town in the heat and headed back to the hotel. On the way back I realized I had forgotten to reconfirm my flight back to the mainland and given how packed the morning flight was I needed to do it before I head out to Havelock - where there are no phones. I found the airlines office (not that far from the hotel - I am so glad I remembered), confirmed my flight, and headed back for my cool(-ish) room. I spent the afternoon reading, trying to avoid sleeping so I could sleep tonight - tomorrow morning is going to be another early one. Entry: In the evening I went out for another walk. I didn't see anything striking, but it was cooler and still beautiful. I also realized that people in warmer places smile more - they move the rest of their bodies less, but their mouths (or at least the corners of them) more. I'd always wondered why people in developing countries smiled more - I always felt like we (the west) had forgotten something. I'm still not sure we haven't forgotten something, but looking back at my three plus years of research it seems to me that the hotter the climate the wider and easier the smiles.

February
9
No. 5, Havelock Island, India
From Port Blair, South Andaman Found In: Country: India End Location: No. 5, Havelock Island, India Photo: The port, Port Blair, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: Beach at the ferry landing, Jetty, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Photo: The beach at the camp, No. 5, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-003 Entry: Woke up feeling surprisingly good considering how early it was. I caught a taxi to the jetty and boarded the ferry without any problem. It's amazing how similar fishing parts look. With the deep green on shore, the pre-dawn darkness, and all the rigged fishing boats I feel as if I were in the Pacific Northwest not deep in the Indian ocean! The boat left on time and despite what the hotel manager told me yesterday the ferry was no where near full, probably less than twenty percent! The ferry ride was to far from most of the islands to be interesting. It was smooth, but except for the occasional glimpse mangrove covered island shores, but boring. Just over four hours after leaving Port Blair I saw my first pure white sand beach - next to the ferry jetty on Havelock Island! Entry: After getting off the ferry I made my way to the dive center near the jetty to find out about diving on the island. The boy minding the shop really didn't know anything and asked me to come back in the afternoon when the boss would be back from the morning's diving. I'd been planning on staying at beach No. 7 on the far side of the island, but heard from a few people on the boat that it really wasn't a nice place to stay anymore. Between recommendations, the distance from the dive shop (14 kilometers), and the lack of transportation I decided to stay at the much nearer beach No. 5 (only 4 km away). There were two other travelers waiting for a rickshaw to return for them and as they were also going to beach 5 I caught a ride with them. We got dropped off at the road and walked through a beautiful grove of coconut trees with glimpse of incredible blue water and white sand flashing between the trunks - I thought that this just might be paradise. Unfortunately when we got to the camp they took the last two huts. We'd passed some other backpackers at No. 3 who told us they places there were all full, so I was starting to worry. A few hundred yards down the main road I found space at a place called "Coconut Grove" that has no coconut trees. It does have a nice little beach and more importantly they had a hut or me. It's a small platform with thatched walls (very thin - you can see right through them) and roof with a blanket tacked up as a door across the front. But it's got a mosquito net and even a small fan in the corner - I like it. Entry: After getting settled in I hung out and talked to some of the other people staying here. Then I headed down to the beach. The water is very shallow so it's not so nice for swimming, but the sand is almost blinding, and there are no sand flies, hawkers, or other tourists so I'm happy. I jumped in the water a few times and laid in the sun until dry. Back at my hut I tried, and failed, to find my sunscreen. The bag that had sunscreen, mosquito repellent and my hat is missing. I don't know if it got left at home, or someplace since then, but it could be a big problem as I don't know if I'll be able to find any here! Entry: I set off down the road back to the jetty. I'd been planing on catching a taxi or bus, but none passed me and I ended up walking the entire four kilometers back. About half way through the walk I passed a school being let out so I had plenty of company. I talked to a DMT (Dive master in training - what Stacy and I did in Dahab last September), and arranged to go out with a group tomorrow morning. At one of the stores I finally found some Indian sunscreen. I'm a little worried about it as when I read the label looking for the SPF factor all it says is "...with SPF and extra protection..." But hopefully it's better than nothing. I walked back, again looking for, but not finding a taxi or rickshaw. By the time I got back to the camp it was starting to get dark. I'm a little concerned about finding transport to the dive club so I arranged to rent a scooter tomorrow. There are so few vehicles on the roads here that I think it's safe, and it only costs $3/day!

February
10
No. 5, Havelock Island, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: No. 5, Havelock Island, India Photo: Two of the other divers, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Clown fish, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Clam lips, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Crocodile fish, Dive: Mac Point, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Glass fish, Dive: Mac Point, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Octopus, Dive: Mac Point, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Octopus, Dive: Mac Point, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Entry: Up early (again this could be habit forming), rented a motorcycle (a little 250) and headed back to the jetty. I couldn't help but think about how they drive in India and the fact that I hadn't even been on a motorcycle in nearly ten years. Luckily I only saw one car and one scooter on the ride. At the dive center I was told that the dive was being postponed from 8:30 to 10:30. So I spent two and a half hours at a little restaurant. Then back to the dive center only to wait another hour. The boat ride out to the site was smooth but once we got there the current was s strong it took us half an hour to get the anchor to hold. Entry: Underwater the current didn't slack off and the visibility was disappointing at 30 to 40 feet. The highlight of the dive was a couple large schools of barracuda and a few sting rays. I also saw a napoleon fish but it was barely visible and was unsociable. The second dive was off of No. 7 beach (where I was originally planning on staying). The beach looked spectacular and so did the water. The visibility was much better (65+ feet) and there was very little current. We saw a big crocodile fish and the two largest octopus I've ever seen! There were three of us diving together and we started at about fifty feet, but moved up to 15-20 pretty quickly. Our air consumption at such a shallow depth was so little that even though the water was 85+°F it was us getting cold that made us end the dive after an hour. Entry: It had gotten quite windy, so it was a rough ride back. Between all the delays, the boat rides, the trouble with the anchor, the surface interval, and the dives it was dusk by the time we got back to the jetty. After cleaning and storing the gear it was dark and I was not excited about the ride back to camp. The light on my bike is barely functional and there are a lot of people and animals walking on the roads so it was a stressful twenty minutes back to camp - I just kept it nice and slow and tried to stick with a motorcycle that passed me. Back at the camp I ordered dinner then hung out until it was ready.

February
11
No. 5, Havelock Island, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: No. 5, Havelock Island, India Photo: Red toothed trigger fish, Dive: Minerva Ledge, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Entry: The assistant told me I couldn't use the bike, so I had to wait for the camp manager to show up to tell me I could use the motorcycle again - no problem, tomorrow I'll save the time and not ask. We were diving "Miverva Ledge" today - way out in the open sea and an hour an a half ride to get there. Both dives were great. There were a couple big schools of red tooth trigger fish (one of my favorites from Dahab), but the highlight was a giant (2+ m) white and black banded sea snake on the second dive. It was so graceful and beautiful of course I'd left my camera on board for the second dive. The ride back seemed even longer and by the time we got back to shore I was feeling very sun burned. At least I was able to ride back to number five before sunset - so I didn't have to ride in the dark again. I took a very much needed bucket bath and then started to have some stomach problems. I tried order rice for diner thinking that might help, but it was very spice and I only ate a few bites before heading for bed. Between being absolutely exhausted, my sunburn, and my stomach I think I'm going to take tomorrow off from diving.

February
12
No. 5, Havelock Island, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: No. 5, Havelock Island, India Photo: Soft corals, Dive: The Wall, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Sea flowers, Dive: The Wall, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Puffer fish, Dive: The Wall, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: The beach at Turtle Bay, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Dive boat, Dive: Aquarium, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Lion fish, Dive: Aquarium, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: ? Eel, Dive: Aquarium, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Blue spotted fish (Wrasse?), Dive: Aquarium, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Entry: When I woke up my stomach was feeling better and I realized I was to sunburned to go to the beach so I decided to dive again. The first dive was at "The Wall" - only 20 minutes away. The visibility was horrible (less than 5 meters), but it was still a very enjoyable dive as there were tons of big fish. Between the dives we went back to the jetty for a couple hours where I had a light lunch and read. The second dive was about 40 minutes out at "Aquarium". The visibility was much better and again there wasn't anything really exciting, but it was still very nice. Plus it was long - well over an hour underwater. Back on shore it was dark and I had to ride home in the dark again - not nearly as stressful this time, but I still didn't like it.

February
13
No. 5, Havelock Island, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: No. 5, Havelock Island, India Entry: Determined not to dive today I managed to force myself to stay in bed until eight when it was too late. I had a very leisurely breakfast in the camp's garden area then spent the day reading or lounging in a hammock. I went down to the beach for a nice swim and was saved the temptation of laying on the beach by the high tide. In the early afternoon I went to pick up the laundry I had turned in yesterday morning only to be told it would be ready in an hour. So I gave them four. When I went back some what to my surprise it was ready, ironed, and spotlessly clean - even old stains! The rest of the evening afternoon was spent reading in the shade.

February
14
No. 5, Havelock Island, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: No. 5, Havelock Island, India Photo: Yellow w/ black spotted fish (grouper?), Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Gobie (?) in rock, Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Giant sponge, Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Worm on sponge, Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Clown fish, Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Colorful fish, Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Clown fish, Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: ? Nudiebranch, Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: ? Nudiebranch, Dive: Lighthouse Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Starfish, Dive: Pilot Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Starfish, Dive: Pilot Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Lionfish, Dive: Pilot Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Blue spotted fish, Dive: Pilot Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Lionfish, Dive: Pilot Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Lionfish, Dive: Pilot Reef, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Entry: Back to diving today. The first dive was close to the jetty at Lighthouse reef. There was nothing fantastic about the dive, but despite mediocre visibility (about 30 feet) it was a really nice dive. Between the two dives we went back to shore, but for less than an hour. Entry: The second dive was at Pilot Reef, about an hour boat ride out. Again I really enjoyed the dive - even though the visibility was worse that the first dive. The topography of the reef was quite convoluted - between that and the poor visibility it took almost all my concentration just to keep with the group. Again it was a nice long hour plus dive. Entry: As a pleasant surprise we were back on land just after three. That meant I was back at the camp a good hour before dusk. So I did the remainder of my laundry (the things I was wearing yesterday), cleaned out my hut (it needed it), and bathed (I definitely needed it!) Spent the evening sorting the digital photos I've taken over the last few days and reading. For diner I got a little daring and had the vegetable tahli - it was fantastic - I can't wait until tomorrow night just so I can order it again! I ended the night staying up later talking about India, travel, philosophy, and religion - but as one topic.

February
15
No. 5, Havelock Island, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: No. 5, Havelock Island, India Photo: Nudiebranch , Dive: The Wall, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Sea flower, Dive: The Wall, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Sea flower, Dive: The Wall, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Moray eel, Dive: The Wall, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Soft coral, Dive: The Wall, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Dive boat, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Yellow fish, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Bug, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Skunk clown fish and anemone, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-004 Photo: Anemone, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Moray eel, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Bug, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Bug, Dive: Barracuda City, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Sunset, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Entry: Woke up to gray skies and oppressive heat. On the bright side the ocean is mirror flat. The first dive was at the Wall again. It was an excellent dive. I went with Marcus (one of the owners) and Piere (he's been diving since I got here) and we quickly descended - within two minutes we were at 130 feet. We explored a little then Ueli (the other owner) found us and we all sang Marcus happy birthday in a shallow cave - it was nearly as surreal as it sounds. This was my favorite dive on the island so far. Entry: Back on the boat the conditions were good but the skies were threatening so we we decided to head straight to the other dive site instead of going back to shore first. The second dive was at Barracuda City (the first dive I did in the Andamans.) I had trouble equalizing so it was a bit of a struggle to get down, but it ended up being another very nice dive. I was a bit disappointed that one of the other groups saw a turtle and we didn't, plus I failed to find the giant octopus that I saw last time - but still a good dive. Entry: Since we skipped the shore break we were done diving before two. Which was lucky as we were just finishing unloading the equipment when the sky to the north tuned an incredibly bright dark gray. Within minutes it was storming - torrential rain, and lightning and thunder. Beautiful but tomorrow is supposed to be my beach day. Ueli whipped up some very strong rum punch to celebrate Marcus' birthday and we had a mini party under the awnings in front of the dive shop. After my second cup I realized I really hadn't had anything to eat today and started worrying about the ride back to camp. Entry: I hung out the rest of the afternoon waiting for the rain to slacken then rode home just before dark - stressful due to the rain, wet road, and my lack of experience, but uneventful. since last nights talhi didn't cause me any stomach problems (in fact this is the first day since I got to Havelock Island that I haven't had problems) I ordered it again. Unsurprisingly it wasn't anything like last night's, but it was still excellent.

February
16
No. 5, Havelock Island, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: No. 5, Havelock Island, India Photo: The beach at Number 7, No. 7, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: The beach at Number 7, No. 7, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: The beach at Number 7, No. 7, Havelock Island, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Entry: Once again I forced myself to sleep in and didn't get up until after eight. I had a leisurely breakfast then hopped on my motorcycle and set off for the beach. The sixteen kilometers took almost an hour but the road was beautiful through dense rain forest, wild (?) banana groves, and small cultivated fields. The forest was especially impressive with it's jungle vines hanging from hundred plus foot tall trees! Entry: At the beach I walked twenty minutes along the sand to a small lagoon around the corner - I'd been told this was the best place to avoid the sand flies. I'd expected the beach to be slightly crowded, but it was virtually deserted - maybe a half dozen people scattered over a few miles of sand - perfect! I'd been planning on spending an hour or two, but somehow that stretched to nearly four - somehow swimming and sunning just ate up the time. If it hadn't been for me noticing I was getting burnt I probably would have been driving back after dark! I decided to grab a light lunch at the lodge out there and that was another hour gone. By the time I got back to my camp I had just enough time to get my money, ride to to the dive shop to pay my bill, and drive back before it started to get dark.

February
17
Port Blair, South Andaman, India
From No. 5, Havelock Island Found In: Country: India End Location: Port Blair, South Andaman, India Photo: Deck class, Ferry: Havelock Island - Port Blair, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Entry: Finished packing, said goodbye to everyone and caught a taxi in to the jetty. At the jetty I installed myself in the cafe next to the dive shop and socialized with the DMTs or read until the ferry showed up a little after ten. Ueli, from the dive club was also going to Port Blair so I tagged along with him. We set up camp in deck class down among the mountains of bananas, coconuts, and who knows what else that passes as cargo - saved us nearly fifty percent (8 rupees - about ¢15). The trip took just over four hours. I shared a taxi with Ueli to his hotel and got a room. The hotel conveniently has an internet cafe so I spent the next three hours wading through 175 emails (140+ of which were junk), and uploading my journal and pictures. I had a great dinner with Ueli and then wasn't feeling to social so went to bed early.

February
18
Chennai, India
From Port Blair, South Andaman Found In: Country: India End Location: Chennai, India Route: Indian Airlines flight 7550: Port Blair - Chennai Entry: In the morning I had a no hassle rickshaw ride to the airport. At the airport there was the usual (for India) bureaucracy with check-in and security (be there to hours early, but can't check in until 45 minutes before the flight, search the bags multiple times, identify luggage after checking it in, etc.). But it all went smooth - luckily I'd remembered to pack all extra batteries in my checked bag. At the final security point the guard went though my stuff until found a camera (one of three) which he made me take a picture of the floor (it's a security violation to take a photo on anything else at the airport), once he's found a camera he didn't bother looking through the rest of the bags?! Entry: In Chennai I caught a prepaid taxi to hotel without any great hassle. My first opinion of the city wasn't good - it's hot, muggy, crowded, mosquito infested, and everyone has their hand out. I had to tip four people at the hotel and I carried my own bag! I stopped answering the door once I had towels, soap, and toilet paper. After settling in I checked out an internet cafe (fast and cheap - well worth the price just for the AC). Entry: After what I'd seen and reading the guide book there was nothing in Chennai that interested me. I needed to find an ATM to refresh my cash, so I decided to use that as a way to make me go for a walk. I got directions to from the hotel manager and set off. I took me a little over an hour to get to Citibank and the only hassles were the constant barrage of the rickshaw drivers (free! Anywhere you want to go) - my opinion of the city went up a little. After using the ATM I wandered around the ritzy shopping area before heading back to the hotel. I'd planned on getting a taxi back, but the all either wanted three times what was fair, or wanted to take me for free - I walked. I walked back a different way from the way I'd come, and I was able to get to the right area, but I could not find the hotel. There were two intersections a twenty minute walk apart that showed up on the map - and the hotel was on the street between them. I walked the stretch three times before getting incredibly frustrated. I went for pizza totally fed up with the city and not wanting to be in India. Dinner was pretty good and helped me calm down a bit, a not bad late at a coffee place helped further. Finally I decided to find the river and work back from there. Less than a five minute walk from where I'd been searching I found the hotel - it's marked wrong on my map! My bank trip had only taken me six hours! But the city did redeem itself a little bit - the hassles weren't to bad and the presence of pizza and decent coffee were a bonus.

February
19
Chennai, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Chennai, India Photo: River front shacks, Chennai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Entry: Slept in a bit. Still unmotivated to do anything. Spent the morning in the room (on the computer, working out, and reading). In the afternoon I went to the internet cafe but there wasn't any important mail - I'm waiting on some mail to make my next set of plans. If I don't get the email tomorrow I'm going to go ahead and plan on leaving the day after anyway. I had a huge late lunch / early dinner then walked around - strangely enough the city seems less of a hassle on a busy weekday.

February
20
Chennai, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Chennai, India Entry: Pretty much a repeat of yesterday. Spent the morning in my room (working out, on my computer, and reading), then hit the internet cafe. In the afternoon I looked in to the bus schedule to Mamallapuram. Entry: I'm really starting to feel tired, and am wondering if it might be time to go home. This is only the second time that I can remember feeling like this for more than a day or two (Namibia, February 1999 was the other time). The thing is the challenge of re-inserting myself into life at home (in effect making a "home") isn't appealing either. Here I am living my dream and I'm not happy. Hopefully it's a funk that will pass. Meanwhile I'm not going to waste my time in India so tomorrow I'm off for Mamallapuram!

February
21
Chennai, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Chennai, India Entry: Still feeling worn out and unmotivated, but a little better. I woke up early and started getting ready to go to Mamallapuram. Then while I was looking through the guide book I realized it was a bad plan. I want to be in Madurai Saturday. That means I would probably only have a half day in Mamallapuram for two days of travel (Mamallapuram is on the rail line)! So came up with a new plan. Tomorrow I'll do a day trip down to Mamallapuram, then on Friday I'll catch an overnight train to Madurai. So today I need to get tickets. Entry: In the late afternoon I had my daily hour on the internet, then had a huge, very spicy, and not very good meal. By the time I'd walked back to the hotel I felt like I had eaten a load of bricks. But still feeling at peace with myself if a little edgy.

February
22
Chennai, India
Via Kanchipuram; Marmallapuram; Madras Crocodile Bank; and Golden Beach Amusement Park Found In: Country: India Stop: Kanchipuram, India Stop: Marmallapuram, India Stop: Madras Crocodile Bank, India Stop: Golden Beach Amusement Park, India End Location: Chennai, India Photo: The mango tree, Ekambaresvara Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Carved pillars, Ekambaresvara Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Carved pillars, Ekambaresvara Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Carved pillars, Ekambaresvara Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Sacred pool, Ekambaresvara Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Ganesh, Ekambaresvara Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Fresco, Ekambaresvara Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Ekambaresvara Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Temple roofs, Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Temple elephant, Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Temple elephant, Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Elephant wash, Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Temple elephant, Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Temple elephant, Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Temple elephant, Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Elephant ear, Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Varadaraja Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Varadaraja Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Varadaraja Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Varadaraja Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Varadaraja Temple, Kanchipuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Friendly cart driver, Somewhere between Kanchipuram and Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Women working in river, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Women working in river, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-005 Photo: Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Five Rathas, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Elephant bas relief at Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Elephant bas relief at Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Other bas relief at Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Other bas relief at Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Monkey statues at Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Bhagiratha's Penance, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: The Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: The Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: The Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: The Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: The Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: The Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: The Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: The Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Shore Temple, Marmallapuram, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Madras Crocodile Bank, South of Chennai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Madras Crocodile Bank, South of Chennai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Entry: Last night around eleven I got a call from reception confirming that I needed to be at train station to meet my bus at 6:15. I'd already arranged all this with the manager so I was a little annoyed, but I said yes. He then proceeded to tell me that there would be a car waiting at 5:30 and he would have a wakeup call for me at five! The manager had told me it would take no longer than fifteen minutes to get to the station and had told me to leave at six. Then this guy was saying it would take 45 minutes and he'd wake me up at five. I tried to discuss it with him, but his English wasn't good enough and after thirty minutes just agreed. So my wake up call came at five, and I was ready to go at 5:30. The first thing the driver tells me is that I'm late, he has been waiting since 4:30. Before I get in I ask to confirm the price and he said 150 rupees. Last night I had been told 35 or 40! The good thing about being so early is that if I hustle I'm pretty sure I can walk there in 45 minutes, and I'll certainly be able to find another rickshaw. Finally the driver agrees to 50 and I get in. Even with the ten minutes of haggling I still get to the station forty minutes early! So I sit and have chai and exercise my patience. Entry: The bus is nice enough. There is an older English couple on board and the rest is Indian tourist. I thought I was signing up for a bus ride to Marmallapuram, then being left to my own for the day then a ride back in the evening. Nope. What I got was a full tour - even with meals included. I normally hate tours, and the guides English was Indian English and I could understand very little of it. However this was perfect. If I'd been on my own I would have seen one of the ruin sites in Marmallapuram as it was I got to see three of the temple complexes, plus three of the temples in Kanchipuram (one of India's seven holly cities). Plus breakfast and lunch! As I was able to escape the tour guide at each site I had a great time. Entry: From Chennai it was a two hour ride to Kanchipuram. The bus is not air-conditioned, but I have a nice airplane style seat in behind the door which was let open so it was very comfortable with lots of leg room. In Kanchipuram our first stop was at the Ekambaresvara Temple. It's a large dark complex dating from the 16th century. The halls are dark with over five hundred carved pillars and has several hundred different lingams (phallic stones representing Siva) lining the wall, each with an oil lamp in front of it - very atmospheric! In the central courtyard there is a giant mango tree which they claim in more than 3,500 years old. Entry: From Ekambaresvara it was a short drive to Vaikuntha Perumal Temple (8th century). This was the highlight of the day for me. Not because of the temple, which was rather ordinary, but because it was my first experience with temple elephants in India. As you walked through the entry gate there was an elephant, painted with intricate swirls, who held out his trunk. When you handed it a coin it blessed you! It would rub its trunk through your hair and touch each shoulder. I was blessed twice. In addition to the elephant on duty back behind the temple grounds there was a big two bay "car wash" where they were washing the paint off a second elephant. After we left the temple we went to a government tourist hotel (it was a government tourist bus) for breakfast. The breakfast looked a bit doubtful, but turned out to be delicious (and spicy!) Entry: After breakfast we drove to Varadaraja a 16th century temple dedicated to Vishnu. This was the most impressive of the temples. The highlight was an open pavilion overlooking the temple's bathing pool. The roof was supported by nearly a hundred fantastically carved pillars. In fact every surface was covered in carvings. From each corner the remains of a stone chain originally carved from a single piece of stone can still be seen. There was also a large number of painted bare chested Brahman contributed to the atmosphere. Additionally everyone (the Brahman, the worshippers, the beggars, and shop keepers) was so friendly and curious - the attitude was not unlike what I encountered at the Kumbh Mela - and was quite welcome! Entry: After leaving the temple we stopped at a sari factory where I expected the hard sell. The weaving was actually pretty interesting, and there was a hard sell - but it wasn't directed at the foreigners it was directed at the Indians! Almost everyone on the bus bought something - some buying saris costing several hundred dollars! From Kanchipuram to Marmallapuram was a fascinating two hour drive through the countryside and many small villages. There were hundreds of cows with painted horns. The horns were always painted bright secondary colors (red, yellow, green, and blue were the most common). Sometimes both horns were painted the same color, but most often each was a different color. Stripes were common as well, and at least once I saw multi colored dots. Many of the cows pulling carts also had elaborate brass sheathing on the tips of the horn - usually with bunches of bells attached. I loved them, they looked very cool. Unfortunately I only ever saw them in the villages and in the country and all my photo attempts failed. Entry: In Marmallapuram our first stop was at the Five Rathas (7th century). These were small Hindu temples with the typically ornate roofs - the difference being that each is monolithic - carved out of a single stone. It was impressive, but the site was small and I was disappointed with the ten US Dollar entry fee (the other temples so far had been 5-10 Rs.) Also there were a lot of people selling junk here and it was hard to stop moving outside the gates (inside the gates there was no problem). Entry: From the Rathas we drove to Bhagiratha's Penance (Decent of the Ganga). This is a series of 7th century temples carved into a giant rock right downtown. What really is impressive are the bas relief carvings. Especially a life sized elephant! I found this site more impressive than the Rathas, and it was the only time all day that I would have rather had more time to explore (there are more temples and carved rocks on the other side of the hill). Entry: The last stop in Marmallapuram was the famous Shore Temple. It's a fairly well preserved temple complex near the beach. I enjoyed it, but the problem was there were a lot of people enjoying it with me - I could have done without the crowds. It really wasn't that bad, but at the other ruins we mostly had them to ourselves so I was spoiled. Entry: Before leaving Marmallapuram we stopped at another tourist hotel for lunch - a delicious all you can eat thali (very spicy!). From there we drove about an hour back towards Chennai and then stopped at the Madras Crocodile Trust Bank - a reptile park. It wasn't something I would have chosen to do, but they had a good collection of crocodile and alligators from all over the world in nice enclosures. It was interesting. Just after leaving the crocodile farm I remarked to the English couple that things had gone really well. They agreed, then the engine compartment started spewing steam and hot water - the timing really was amazing. We stopped and I had resigned myself to a long delay, but a short drive back to town, a quick mechanic, and we were on our way in fifteen minutes! Our last stop was at the Golden Beach Amusement Park - this was something I could have skipped. We only spent an hour there and after wandering around the rides - only a few of which were running, and many looked as if they hadn't run in ten years - I got annoyed with the distorted bad disco being blared all over the park and went to the beach and read. It was interesting to note that even though there was no maintenance on anything in the park they were still building new attractions?! Entry: A half hour drive north brought us back to Chennai. It was an amazing day - really just what I needed. The fact that it was a tourist tour was offset by the fact that the tourist were Indian. Everyone was very friendly and it was a thoroughly enjoyable day - if long, I got back to my hotel around 7:30 - 14 hours after leaving. I hit the internet cafe, then had a great masala diner at a recommended restaurant (Ueli, in the Andamans, had suggested it). I was exhausted but my neighbor had the TV on very loud so I went through the digital photos that I had taken today. There were 120+ of them, but I wound up weeding out about seventy-five percent. There were two really excellent ones of the temple elephant at Vaikuntha Perumal.

February
23
Chennai, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Chennai, India Route: Train 6717, Pandian Express: Chennai - Madurai Lodging: Train 6717, Pandian Express: Chennai - Madurai Entry: Slept in! Eight hours of not waking up once - a first for India! Spent the morning cleaning and packing. In the afternoon I hit the internet cafe to upload all the photos I took yesterday and update my journal. I also had a huge lunch and then hung out in the hotel lobby until it was time to head for the train station. Since I left plenty early I decided to insist on a rickshaw that would use it's meter - the second one I tried agreed, and even with a 30 percent tip it was still only a third of what it would have cost! Entry: I was excited about the train since it was going to be my first air-conditioned sleeper - such luxury. But it was the same as the others I've been on - just colder and the windows (which were too filthy to see through) don't open. One plus is that there don't seem to be as many people crowding in to one berth. On the other sleepers there would often be two (or three or four if there were some children) in one space - making it very tight for everyone. On this train it seems to be one berth, one person. Oh and blankets and sheets are provided!

February
24
Madurai, India
From Chennai Found In: Country: India End Location: Madurai, India Route: Train 6717, Pandian Express: Chennai - Madurai Photo: East gate of the Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Tailors in the Pudu Mandapam, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Market with temple gate in background, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Entry: Woke up in time to watch an incredible sunrise over the mountains. I walked up to the front of the car and stood in the open door to watch it. The reflections in the rice paddies, the silhouetted palms, the cool greens of the banana trees and the rails rushing buy underneath, it all made me realize - I'm in India! and I was glad. The remainder of the train trip was a little less dramatic, the dirty windows prevented any enjoyment of the scenery and the smokers drove me from the open door. We got in to Madurai around 7:30 and with a little luck I found an auto-rickshaw driver who could get me to my hotel. The hotel was quite a ways out of town. At the hotel I had some difficulty getting a room. The hotel has two hotels, and I think they want the tourist at the new, more expensive place across the street. When I persisted I finally got my four dollar room. I spent a couple hours just hanging out, trying not to sleep, but also feeling to tired to head out. Entry: Around eleven I ventured out. I was stupid, I should have set out first thing when it was cooler and then come back to rest when it got hot. Because it was hot! I caught a rickshaw back in to town to the temple. I didn't go in because A) it was closed for midday and B) I'm probably going to go with Amy tomorrow. So instead I wander around the back streets - this was much more enjoyable as I didn't get pestered as badly by the drivers. I browsed a couple bookstores but didn't find anything interesting. Eventually I ended up near the train station and had a decent pizza type thing (it was cheese and veggies on some kind of pastry thing) for lunch. Entry: Back near the temple I wandered in to the Pudu Mandapam a bazillion pillared open hall that's being used as a market. Clearly it must have been a temple at some point - it's covered in elaborate carvings of deities and devils. It was fun to wander down one side (stainless steel and brass) and then through the vast middle space (tailors and cloth venders), and then down the other (books and stationers). It was pleasant to be away from the touts and other leaches attracted to tourist. Here the people were friendly and interested and interesting. I stopped at a stall in the temple gate and asked what some little carved brass rods were and was told that they were used as dice for a game (actually I wasn't told, but they mimed it out for me). They were cheap and interesting, so I bought several pairs. When I tried to get the men to explain the game they refused and sent me over to some women to ask. The women were more than happy to explain - I wonder if it's a children's game and the men aren't supposed to play it? But basically it was our childhood game of Slide and Ladders, except here it's Snakes and Ladders and when you win there are pictures of all the main deities. Entry: By then it was getting late and I was too hot, so I headed back to the hotel. It took my taxi driver three tries to get me there ("This is a very nice cheap hotel", "yes, I'm sure it is, but it's not my hotel."). Then when we did get to my hotel he wanted more money because of all the driving around (and not getting a commission). I cleaned up, went out for bottled water, then met up with Amy. She'd had to work all day in a village and was ready for a beer. We sat in the room and talked for a while, then went out for diner and a beer. I walked Amy back to her guest house and was back in my room a little after ten - barely able to stay awake.

February
25
Madurai, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Madurai, India Photo: Woman selling vegetables, Flower Market, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Woman selling vegetables, Flower Market, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Woman selling vegetables, Flower Market, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Woman selling vegetables, Flower Market, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Me in front of the North gate tower of the Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Gate tower through temple wall, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Painted roof, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: One of the temple elephants, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: One of the temple elephants, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Dome and gate tower through temple roof, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Dome and gate tower through temple roof, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Dome through roof, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Temple roof and columns, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Temple roof and columns, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Shrine, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Another of the temple elephants, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: One of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Sadhu, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Sadhu, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Shrine, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Shrine, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: One of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: One of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: One of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: One of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: One of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: One of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Close up of one of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Close up of one of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Close up of one of the gate towers, Minakshi Temple, Madurai, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Entry: I had a great nights sleep, didn't wake up once between eleven last night and just after six this morning. I spent the morning reading until Amy met me at nine. We took a rickshaw into town to wander around. We had lunch at a bakery near the train station then wandered the streets between the station and the temple. It was Sunday and hot, so most of the stores were closed, but that also meant most of the hassles weren't there. We wandered up to the flower market and walked through - people there were buying flowers by weight! It wasn't all that busy, I think I'll go back tomorrow or the next day to se it in full swing. From the roof of the flower market we'd seen some interesting looking back streets so we went for a wander. Got fairly lost, but eventually made our way back to the temple area. Entry: In the Pudu Mandapam it was a far different scene from yesterday - almost no one was open and it was fairly empty - though Amy still managed to spend some time looking at silk fabric. At four o'clock when the Minakshi Temple opened again we went in. We spent the next two hours exploring the maze of buildings, galleries, courtyards, and pools. It was fabulously relaxing and lots of photo opportunities. After leaving the temple we had a great diner of veggie dosa and then walked a little more. I dropped Amy off at her guesthouse at ten then tried to work on my photos and journal, but couldn't keep my eyes open and fell asleep.

February
26
Madurai, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Madurai, India Photo: Cows with painted horns, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Cows with painted horns, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Street shrine, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Entry: Woke up at six again, but this time while I was thinking of what to do with the morning I fell asleep again until 9:30 when the heat woke me. I spent the morning getting caught up with my journal (since I fell asleep last night), finishing up with yesterdays photos, writing email, and then at an internet cafe getting them all out on the net. Entry: Once I got in to town I wandered around the temple area some more. In the Pudu Mandapam I had one of the tailors cut and hem the cloth I bought yesterday. I then walked to the train station and figured out how / when I wanted to leave Madurai. I decided to catch a very early morning (four AM!) train to Kanniyakumari on the very southernmost tip of India. I was able to get a A/C sleeper ticket for Wednesday morning. Then it was time for a small lunch and more wandering (back to the temple, through Pudu Mandapam, and then along the parallel streets a few blocks away from the temple - nice and quiet). Entry: Amy came by after work and we went on a walking quest to pick up a shirt she'd had made at a tailor. We got a bit lost but after an hour of walking around we found the right place. We went back to the same place we'd had diner my first night in town and it was pretty good. I made a mistake an ordered a Chinese dish - it was ok, Amy ordered Indian and it was great. I've got to remember to only order Indian food...

February
27
Madurai, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Madurai, India Photo: The Ghandi Museum, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: After hours at the market, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: After hours at the market, Madurai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Entry: Woke up at six again - but then went back to sleep until 9:30 - again. In the morning I worked on email and played. In the afternoon I took a auto-rickshaw to the Ghandi museum. The museum was a little hooky, colloquial, quaint, however you want to say it. But because of this it was also very effective and engaging. I normally have a two hour max limit for museums (often I don't make it through the first), I stayed nearly three. Entry: I headed back in to town and revisited the Pudu Mandapam to do some shopping. But once I was there I couldn't find anything that didn't seem silly and unnecessary. I walked through the cheerful-bustle of the market as everything was being packed up. Hit the flower market again but was uninspired this time - still liked the smell though. Back in the market I wandered through the shut stalls and enjoyed the quiet. Back in the hotel I worked on my photos until Amy showed up. We went back in to town to hit the book store and the government craft store. Both were a big disappointment. Had another delicious diner. We had an emotional talk and said a very sad goodbye. Entry: Back in my room I packed and then tried to sleep a few hours before my train, but it was too hot.

February
28
Kanyakumari, India
From Madurai Found In: Country: India End Location: Kanyakumari, India Route: Train: Kanyakumari Express, 6121: Madurai - Kanyakumari Lodging: Hotel Maadhini Photo: Vivekanada Rock and Thiruvalluvar Statue, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Painted fishing raft, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Moored fishing boats, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-006 Photo: Moored fishing boats, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Sunset, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Entry: At three o'clock I got up and finished packing. I caught an auto-rickshaw to the train station without any problem. The train was 25 minutes late, but my bunk was air-conditioned and very welcome after Madurai's heat. I slept until nearly nine then watched the scenery roll by until we arrived in Kanyakumari a little after ten. Entry: Kanyakumari is a little town located at India's southern most tip. It prime fame is that it is possible to bathe in three seas simultaneously. Hindu's regard the confluence of water as sacred - so the spot where the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Sea, and the Arabian Sea meet must be important. There is a red domed temple and columned mandapa built as a memorial to Vivekanada (A Bengali religious leader and philosopher - "... the Lord is one, but the sages describe him differently") on a large rock a few hundred meters out to sea. On a nearby rock is the nearly completed 130+ foot statue of Thiruvalluvar. Between the two of them and the ocean on three sides the city has a fantastical feel to it - I could almost imagine seeing a dragon taking flight from the memorial temple! Entry: I was feeling a little self indulgent so I checked in to a nice hotel. It still only cost me $7, but I have a fantastic view from my own balcony and everything is very clean. Having learned my lesson in Madurai I immediately set out to explore before it got to hot. It was already hot, but the breeze off the ocean made things tolerable. I wandered along the shore to the little harbor. The small canoe like rafts built from shaped logs tied together were interesting, but the beach was littered with the carcasses of unwanted fish from the nets - hundreds of blowfish and eels - which I found depressing. There was also much evidence of it being used as a toilet which the tides flush twice a day. Entry: The town has a distinct fishing-village cum holiday resort cum fishing-village feeling. It's a feeling that seems to transcend cultures - think the Algarve coast in Portugal, Cape Cod in the US, or any of the Greek islands in the off season. Entry: Wandering around was nice. I didn't see any foreign tourist and it is a quaint town. I walked up to the lighthouse but was told it was closed to public access due to the Sri Lanakan LTD (Tamil Tigers) - not sure why that should matter, but it reminded me of how close to Sri Lanka I am right now. I stopped and had a light breakfast then continued walking. When it got to hot after a couple hours I found an internet cafe and then returned to my room to wait for things to cool off. Entry: A couple hours later I ventured out again. It's still hot, but a strong wind has picked up. I'd set out to explore some more and then watch the sunset from the Ghandi Mandapam (at the confluence), but the rough wind surf called to me and I ended up walking north along the west coast (Arabian Sea). After walking a mile or two I stopped at some large rocks on the side of the road and sat down to watch the ocean, read, and wait for the sun to set. I was really enjoying the solitude but didn't mind it when a man on a bicycle stopped to sell me tea. As I sat there and drank my chai all was right. About twenty minutes later cars started pulling up. It turns out that unknowingly I'd stopped at "Sunset point" - where all the locals and Indian tourist come to watch the sunset - so much for solitude. The sunset was a little disappointing - no fire and too many people - but still nice. I walked back to and through town to my hotel. After a very nice diner at the hotel I stayed up late reading the Maldives guide book. I had decided not to go when I went to the Andamans, but now I'm feeling self-indulgent. The guide book inspired me - I want to go, but it sounds like it might be difficult (and expensive) to organize from here. I'll do some looking on the web tomorrow.

March, 2001

March
1
Kanyakumari, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kanyakumari, India Lodging: Hotel Maadhini Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-269 Photo: Thiruvalluvar Statue, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Thiruvalluvar Statue, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Coastal view from my room, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Coastal view from my room, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Entry: Slept in (I was up too late with the Maldives guidebook!) I spent the remainder of the morning wandering around the village some more. I like it in the morning as there are very few tourist or tourist hanger-ons around. In the afternoon I went in to the internet cafe to check my email. The connection was terrible and I kept being cut off. A problem in India is that as soon as there is someone paying for the connection the person working at the cafe gets online too - often something very high bandwidth like audio video or audio streaming. Today the guy was using an internet phone type chat room - and he's on the server so the other machines are nearly starved. I tried to upload pictures, but no way, I'll have to wait until I'm somewhere faster. I'd just about given up on trying to even deal with my email when I managed to catch a headline on CNN.com saying that there'd been a major earthquake in Seattle! Of course the computer crashed and then the server kept dropping the line. I spent nearly two hours getting the story - I hope everyone is OK. I also managed to send out a couple inquiries regarding dive trips in the Maldives. I think it's highly unlikely that I'll be able to find something available and affordable, but I'll give it a shot. After leaving the internet cafe I went to the ferry dock to catch a ferry out to Vivekanada Rock - only to find out that it was ten past four and the last ferry leaves at four. Wandered around some more then headed back to the hotel. I've decided this is a nice place, but there's not much to do here. So tomorrow morning I'll go out to the rock, and tomorrow afternoon I'll head for Kovalam (and the beach!)

March
2
Kovalm, India
From Kanyakumari Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalm, India Photo: Thiruvalluvar Statue, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Thiruvalluvar Statue, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Kanyakumari, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Flag, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Flag, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Kanyakumari, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sailing raft, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sailing raft, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Kanyakumari from the ferry, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Sailing raft, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Temple Flag, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Vivekanada Mandapam, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sailing raft, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Kanyakumari, Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Vivekanada Rock, Kanyakumari, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Entry: Somehow my alarm didn't go off this morning or if it did I turned it off and then back on without waking up - either way it's concerning as I often rely on it. It wasn't a problem this morning as I only overslept about half an hour. I finished packing and left my bag at reception. The line for the ferry wasn't bad and I was able to get on the first boat. The ferry stoped at the Thiruvalluvar Statue first, where we were alowed off, but couldn't leave the landing due to construction - they're still finish the statue. At Vivekanada Rock I got off and wandered. There was nothing magic about the memorial mandapam or the temple over the Devi's footstep (a vaguely foot shaped lump in the rock) - they're much more spiritual when seen perched on the rock from across the water. Like most of my experiences recently the saving factor was that most of the other tourists on the rock were Indian. Entry: Back on shore I hit the internet cafe, had lunch, then made my way to the bus stop to catch the bus to Kovalam. The "direct" bus got to Kovalam via Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) - some miles passed Kovalam. But the bus wasn't too crowded (for a change a fairly high percentage foreigners - maybe Indians don't go to Kovalam), and the scenery (mountains, jungle, rice paddies, and villages) was fantastic so the three and a half hour trip wasn't bad. Near Kovalam the man sitting across from me offered that he managed a hotel and gave me his card. I would normally be very suspicious of this, but the card had a name on it, didn't look used (and he let me keep it), and it was the hotel that had already been recomended to me. So from the bus station I followed him along the beach, then through a maze of walled back alleys, raised walkways through flooded paddies, and among the palm trees to his hotel. The hotel was fantastic - very clean, nice, new, cheap, and close to the beach - I bargained him down a little just on principal and then took the room (less than $3 a night). I sat on my porch and talked with the manager and his wife, then a couple other tourists who had been on the bus with me (including one who had been on the train from Madurai with me). As it got dark the intense heat let up a little but vicious giant mosquitoes appeared. I took shelter in my room and enjoyed a well needed and deserved shower before heading out to eat. Outside the hotel I ran into June (from Japan), and Christina (from Austria - she was on the train from Madurai) also heading out to eat so I joined them. I had a mostly fantastic (there were some strange bits - like the very strong, and wrong tasting, pickled lemon peel) thali. Entry: Walking around the area I realized that it's almost all foreigners here - it's basically a Dahab, Phuket, Nungwi, or Lagos resort type place. But somehow it's still got the charm and hasn't been built up, plus there is a beach that's kept clean and isn't used as a toilet - I think this place might be perfect for a few days (or weeks) rest!

March
3
Kovalm, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalm, India Photo: Lighthouse beach, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Lighthouse beach, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Sunset, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Sunset, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Sunset, Kovalam, India
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 404-048 Photo: Sunset, Kovalam, India
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 404-048 Photo: Lighthouse, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Entry: In the morning I slept in until nearly ten - it's delightfully quiet here! I spent the day at the beach and wandering around the village. The beach is awesome, but it gets very hot in the middle of the day and the water is so warm that it doesn't help to cool much so in the mid afternoon I took refuge in the village. The town is sprinkled among coconut palms and banana trees with raised walkways wandering through - nice and shady and adventuresome. I tried a number of travel agents who had signs up advertising Maldives packages - but there wasn't much selection, and none of it was aimed at divers. If I go to the Maldives I think I'm going to have to go independently and arrange everything once I get there. I also did some shopping (or, more accurately browsing) there are crafts from all over India and lots from Pakistan and Nepal, and while the prices start high they seem to come down to a reasonable level with a little bargaining. Entry: Mid afternoon I went back to the coolness of my room and relaxed for a couple hours before venturing out to watch the sunset. It was a very nice sunset, though some low clouds hid the last few minutes of the show. After sunset I hit an internet cafe and then finished off the night with diner and a video (the end of "Something About Mary" and "Traffic") at one of the beach cafes. Sometime after eleven found me walking back under the stars on the beach. The air was slightly hazy - not enough to dim the stars, but enough to make the three huge beams of the lighthouse look aurora-like as they rotated across the sky.

March
4
Kovalm, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalm, India Photo: Reflection of sunset, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Photo: Reflection of sunset, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Entry: Pretty much a repeat of yesterday - life is good. I spent the morning at the beach reading about the Maldives. I think I've convinced myself to go without a package, and try to arange something in Male'. It sounds as if customs won't let me in unless I have an initial booking, so now I have to try and find a vacancy in Male'. Around two it gets to hot again and I head back to my room. I write emails to all the hotels in Male' that the guide book lists email adresses. I tried to send the emails, but the internet service provider is down. So life being difficult it's back to the beach. I hang out until sunset then go have diner and watch a couple videos ("Charlie's Angels" and "The matrix").

March
5
Kovalam, India
From Kovalm Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Weather: Mostly Sunny / Partial Sun / Rain Entry: I Slept in (I really love the quiet here) then spent the rest of the morning working on my journal and sending email from the internet cafe. In the early afternoon I went to the beach. There's a little bit of a swell running (waves 3-4 foot) so it was fun to play in the water. I've probably only manager to body surf a half dozen times in the last four years - it felt good. In the evening the clouds rolled in so I gave up on the sunset and went back to my room. I took a quick shower and put on clean dry clothes (I also got laundry back). As I walked out of my room for diner a few minutes later it started to rain. Within minutes it was torrential and I was drenched - so much for changing in to clean clothes. After diner it had stopped raining so I headed for one of the beach front cafes for a video. I watched the end of "Me, Myself, and Irene" (hated it), and then moved to another cafe to watch "Men of Honor" (loved it). The sky had cleared so I slowly walked back on the beach watching the stars and the beams from the lighthouse.

March
6
Kovalam, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Entry: In the morning (or what was left of it when I got up) I wrote some email, worked on my journal, then went to the internet cafe. I had email from a couple hotels in Male' and they have room for me this week, so I spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon on a quest for airplane tickets. I got some but it's unclear for when they are - I have to wait until tomorrow for that. I had a late lunch then went to the beach until sunset. The surf is actually a little bigger today - it was fun, but I wish I had a pair of fins. Went for diner at one of the beach cafes and saw "Castaway" and "Hannible" - two too long movies.

March
7
Kovalam, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Entry: I spent the morning on the internet, going to check on my ticket (I'm leaving tomorrow!), and shopping (bought a hat and a beach bag). After lunch I hit the beach for a few hours (not much surf). Around five I headed back to the hotel for general maintenance (I had to sew up a few things), and to start packing. In the evening I went to pick up my ticket, then had diner and watched a video ("X-Men") at one of the beach cafes. Then I headed back to my room early to pack and get a good night sleep - except I couldn't sleep and it ended up being a long frustrating night.

March
8
Male', The Maldives
From Kovalam, India Found In: Country: India Route: Taxi: Kovalam - Trivandrum; Indian Airlines flight 963: Trivandrum - Male' Entry: I'm not sure why, but I barely got any sleep last night, so this morning I started out a bit of a wreck (distracted, couldn't keep my eyes open, not very steady). My taxi driver showed up right on time (a little bit to my surprise) and I had an uneventful 25 minute drive to the airport. At the airport there was the usual bureaucracy - you've got to be there two hours early, but they make you wait up to an hour between each station (security one, ticket desk, baggage, immigration, security two, gate, and boarding) but nothing I haven't gotten used to. The flight was short - thankfully because it wasn't smooth. Entry: The airport is on its own little island. During the landing I looked out and it looked like the jet was going to land right on the shallow reef. The Maldives' custom officials put me through the most massive search I've ever had. The guy checked the seams of my dirty underwear(!), and felt my tooth brush bristles and dental floss (?!). Finally half an hour later I was allowed to repack and sent on my way. I caught a dhonis (local ferry) across the water and I was in Male'. A quick taxi ride (there are no other kinds - this is a very small island) and I was at my guest house. I changed clothes, and hung out for an hour trying to get a grip on my exhaustion then set out walking. Entry: Male' is a weird place. It's a small island (two kilometers long by one kilometer wide - just over three quarters square mile) and it seems to be nearly a hundred percent covered. During my walk I saw to tennis courts and a small park, the rest is completely paved in bricks (no ground, but also no asphalt!) The streets are very narrow and the building mostly whitewashed coral. It sort of feels like one unit, almost like a campus or military camp. Most of the people around are young adults, and the dress is very liberal for an Islamic state - most of the women were wearing tight shirts and skirts (long) or jeans. Entry: I just happened to wander by an office whose name I recognized from the guide book as a company the runs dive safaris so I went in. It was strange there was a modern office, but no one was in it. Someone finally walked in on my and looked surprised - it's a holiday today and the front door wasn't supposed to be open. She couldn't answer any questions about dive charters and the office is also closed tomorrow (for Friday), so she made a call and I sat down to wait. About ten minutes later a guy shows up to talk to me. He thinks that there are a couple boats going out in the next couple days and that there might be room on one. Basically he doesn't know much either, but he tries to be helpful, gives me some brochures, and promises to email me with details tonight. He thought the price would be about $55 a day all inclusive (boat, diving, and meals) - this sounds much to good, I was hoping to pay about twice that. Entry: I walked along harbor waterfront and found another tour operator from the book that was open. They can fit me in on the 11th for a week. Actually the boat is going for two weeks, but I'd catch a seaplane back to Male' (bonus!) - everything for $110 / day. There's just one spot left as the boat has been booked by a group from Austria, I told them I'd let them know tomorrow or Saturday. I didn't really expect to find out anything today, so I'm feeling pretty good about my options for getting off Male'. Tomorrow being Friday I probably won't get anything done, but I'd like to make some solid plans on Saturday. I found the Maldives' only Internet Cafe, it's very modern with spots to dock laptops, big monitors, and quick connections - it also has wonderful air-conditioning - but it's expensive (75 Rf / $7 an hour - versus $1 an hour in India). I had dinner at a hotel restaurant then walked back to my guesthouse - somewhat surprisingly I found it, I was expecting to have to use a taxi to get back. I'd planned on getting to bed early, but I ended up getting caught up with a bug on one of my projects and the next thing I knew it was very late (or early)...

March
9
Male', The Maldives
Found In: Entry: I woke up feeling like I was coming down with a cold - exactly what I don't want when I'm going diving! So I slept as long as I could. In the morning / early afternoon I finished with the problem I was working on. I then walked to the north side of the island (the airport side) and wandered around. At the internet cafe I'd gotten email from the tour company regarding a diving trip - it's going to be $155 - $255 a day (not $55 as I was told yesterday). And it's doubtful that they can find room for me. Once it cooled off a little I went for a nice walk halfway around the island before cutting back to the guest house. There are tons of people out for a promenade and the atmosphere is festive and friendly. I had dinner at a hotel again - there were not many options, as the real restaurants are very expensive, and / or didn't open until later than I want to eat. Back at the guesthouse I talked with manager who was gone yesterday, he's a diver, and thinks I can probably get a spot on a dive boat through the dive school he works with. It would be a little more money than the guys I talked to yesterday so I'll try that first, but it is nice to know that there are options.

March
10
Male', The Maldives
Found In: Entry: I managed to get up earlier today. I walked to the to tour operator to try and book the dive cruise. I spent and hour asking questions and then signing on - of course then I had to pay, and with a six percent charge for credit cards I opted to walk all the way back to the guest house and back for my travelers checks! It think it's by far the the most money I've ever spent for a week, but now I'm booked for eight days of diving and a sea plane ride back. Entry: I checked email for the last ing at least half way around (to where I got yesterday) - but it was just to hot. After lunch I went to the fish market. I'd been looking forward to this as it's something that everyone has recommended (the guide book, guesthouse manager, and tour operators), but I was disappointed. There was no atmosphere (just a concrete floor) and very little verity - mostly yellow fin, two sail fish, and some smaller things. I wandered through some of the dive shops and found them expensive and poorly stocked - but I did buy a reef guide to the Indian Ocean (Debelious - the same author as the Red Sea yellow book that I loved so much). With the rest of the divers on board being German speakers I figured I'd have a lot of time over the next week to read, so I tried to find some books. The selection is horrible - it all seems to be bad teen romance or Goosebumps! I finally found Stephen King's the Green Mile. I walked across the island to the New Harbor, where I'm supposed to leave from tomorrow - it's big and there are a lot of boats, I hope I can find the dive boat in the morning! Later I called the tour people and was told there would be no problem - but I'm still a little concerned and decide to make sure I'm early. As a treat I went out for ice-cream. I just went to a random shop catering to locals (there are no bars here, so ice-cream parlors and tea shops seem to fill the gap) and found it good and relatively cheap.

March
11
Giraavaru Channel, Male' Atoll, The Maldives
From Male' Found In: Entry: My alarm didn't go off again, but luckily I woke up with ten minutes. I got ready and finished packing then caught a taxi to the New Harbor. I looked around at the mass of boats and started to worry about figuring out which dhoni was froy the dive boat - but I was fifteen minutes early so I didn't panic. A few minutes later someone approached me and we were off walking - to the other side of the island (?!) where a launch picked me up and took me out to the die boat. The boat is plenty spacious and very nice (though starting to wear at the edges). I was told the others were on their way from the airport. I settled down to read and two hours later they showed up. It took another two hours to get under way - I mostly just sat on the deck and read. The other thirteen passengers are from Austria and either don't speak very good English or weren't not feeling sociable. Entry: After we finally weighed anchor we cruised for a little over an hour and stopped off of Giraavaru (still in Male' Atoll). I got my equipment from the ships supply. Everyone else had their own equipment and since that's the standard for here I was a little concerned about what the rental stuff would be like - it was all brand new, never been in the water before - very nice. We went for a drift / check out dive. The current was very strong so while the wall wasn't all that interesting we whipped by it and it really felt like I was flying. I was starting to worry about trying to keep the group together when it was time to get picked up, when about thirty minutes into the dive we rounded a corner and the current completely disappeared! It was actually a little disappointing because now I had to work to move. The sun was setting as we started to surface - I think it's the first time I've ever seen a sunset reflected in the waves above me! There was nothing specifically about the dive that was great, but there were lots of fish who didn't seem to mind us, and the visibility was good (~50 feet) so it boded well for the next week. While writing up my log I realized the battery in my dive computer is so low that it won't register any more dives until I replace it - not good as I'm at sea diving for the next week. I'll have to look into renting one from the boat, or at least a depth gauge... Entry: After the dive we had dinner. I was exhausted (I had trouble sleeping again last night) and everyone else also went to bed early (not surprising since they had just flown in all the way from Vienna).

March
12
Rasdhoo, Rasdhoo Atoll, The Maldives
From Giraavaru Channel, Male' Atoll Found In: Entry: The boat started up around six so when I got up at eight we were arriving at Rasdhoo Island north of the Ari Atoll (Rasdhoo Atoll). After breakfast we went for our first dive. The site was a wall called "Rasdhu Madivar". It was a very nice drift dive - plenty of current to kee< us moving, but gentle enough to see things. The highlight for me was definitely the huge schools (thousands) of redtooth triggerfish. Entry: After the dive we had time to lounge around and have lunch. Some time after two we set out to do our second dive at "Rasdhu Beyru". This was an epic dive from the beginning. We dropped right on to a green turtle who didn't mind us being there at all, immediately after there was a good sized eagle ray and a smallish sting ray. We also saw a white tip shark (~4 foot). Plus all the usual - morays, triggerfish (including a couple titans, tons of redtooth, and a few of my favorite, clown triggers). As an even bigger bonus the visibility continues to get better (more than 80 foot for this dive!) Entry: Back on the boat we relaxed for an hour then headed out to explore the "non-tourist" island of Rasdhoo. There are no resorts on the island, and no foreigners are allowed to spend the night there, the problem is that there are three resorts on the next (very nearby) island so the non-tourist islandois packed with tourist during the day. There weren't many others they by the time we got there, but that just meant the souvenir stores could spend more time targeting us. I wandered up and down the village streets while shipmates bought everything in site. The village is very pleasant - very neat - rows of small coral houses with wide sandy roads and beautiful gardens overflowing with bougainvillea and greenery - and at the end of every street you can see the blue of the Indian ocean. After dinner I sorted through the hundred plus photos I'd taken and picked out about twenty to keep. I tried to go to bed early since tomorrow we've got a pre-dawn dive, but despite being very tired it took me a long time to get to sleep.

March
13
Off Gangehi, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
From Rasdhoo, Rasdhoo Atoll via Gangehi Island Found In: Photo: Yellow Sweepers in cave (Glassfish), Dive: Gangehi Kandu, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-007 Entry: We all got up at five to go for a pre-dawn hammerhead shark dive. The dive started out incredible - deep blue black water, and as we passed 40 meters a large eagle ray was silhouetted as it "flew" by above us. Unfortunately that was the highlight. We didn't see any sharks or any large fish at all. The visibility was awesome though - at least 40 meters! The highlight was definitely the eagle ray, followed closely by the awesome sun rise that was happening as my head broke the water - I floated there and watched it before climbing back in to the boat. Entry: Back on the boat we had breakfast then had to time to hangout for a few hours before our second dive at 9:30. The visibility wasn't very good but it was still a fun dive - nothing remarkable though. In the afternoon after lunch, and some sun time we went for our third dive. The visibility was even worse and once again we didn't see anything exciting. I did have a good time poking around the coral at the safety stop. The rest of the evening was spent on the boat. I went through the photos I took and made myself go through the reef guide and and try to identify all of them. It was pretty challenging (I know so little about fish that it was hard to even know where to begin looking in the book), but I eventually found all but one. After several nights of little sleep, a very early morning, and three dives I am exhausted - I'll bet I sleep well tonight!

March
14
Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
From Off Gangehi via Maaya Thila, Ari Atoll Found In: Photo: Longfin batfish, Dive: Maaya Thila, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Some kind of unicorn surgeonfish, Dive: Maaya Thila, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Sailing dhoni, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 404-048 Photo: Sailing dhoni, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 404-048 Photo: Sailing dhoni, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 404-048 Photo: Sunset behind Maalhos, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sunset behind Maalhos, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sunset behind Maalhos, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sunset behind Maalhos, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sunset behind Maalhos, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sunset behind Maalhos, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sunset behind Maalhos, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Entry: The boat moved south (?) this morning to the nearby reef (a little over an hour) of Maaya Thila. This was a very good dive. We saw many sharks (both gray sharks and white tip reef sharks), and the fish were very friendly and curious. Too friendly, I'd guess they've been fed in the past. The visibility was better, the only problem was that there were too many people - there were two other dive boats there as well. Entry: After lunch they moved the boat again, this time to Maalhos Island. The afternoon dive was Ok, nothing special except for some sharks, the cleaning fish, and a pair of octopus. Near the beginning of the dive I saw at least two and maybe three sharks. One was a big gray and the other was a large (two meters) black or white tip reef shark. I was a little out in front of the group, but the sharks weren't shy and were quite curious so I was surprised to find out after the dive that no one else had seen them. Luckily I had pictures or I don't think they would have believed me! The other part of the dive I really enjoyed was when I stopped unknowingly at what was a cleaning station and the little cleaning fish went to work on my legs - a bit of a shock at first to feel a dozen little fish nibbling at my legs! Right at the end of the dive I found a pair of octopus. They were both out when I first saw them, but quickly hid in some holes. One was quite large and I could see him being cleaned by some cleaner shrimp - a first for me. My favorite part of the afternoon was coming back to the boat. I've taken to sitting on the bow in the sun to warm up after the dives. I was sitting there with my feet in the water watching some fish in front of the bow - when they leapt out and flew! They were flying fish and it was amazing to watch (and hear!) them take off only inches from my feet - they make a slow buzzing sound like hummingbirds or maybe giant beetles when they fly. Entry: They dropped us off on the island for the rest of the afternoon. This was a real local island. I was wandering around the deserted shore when the beach narrowed and nearly disappeared into the mangroves. This beach on this side of the island was quite littered with flotsam and that meant there were a great number of large crabs - large enough to where I didn't feel like continuing bare foot! So I cut into the interior on a wide sandy path I'd passed earlier. it was a small village, laid out pretty much like the last one, except there were no souvenir shops - it was obvious that visitors were rare, everywhere I went people stared and the children were quite shy. By the time we left there was a crowd of children and a few adults there to watch the boat pull away. Back on board we watched a beautiful sunset, then the others went for a night dive. I'd decided to skip the night dive - diving without a computer is making me a little nervous and I'd rather not push it so I took a break.

March
15
Innfushi Island, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
From Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll via Enmas Thila Found In: End Location: Innfushi Island, Ari Atoll, The Maldives Route: Dive Boat Fathuhulbaaree: Maalhos - Enmas - Innfushi Photo: Sleeping napoleon wrasse, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Sleeping napoleon wrasse, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-008 Photo: Green turtle eating coral, Dive: Maalhos Thila, Maalhos Island, North Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Sleeping gray shark, Dive: Enmas Thila, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Sunset, Innfushi Island, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Entry: We gp up at 6:30 for a pre-breakfast dive. The visibility wasn't so great, and the current was (as usual) pretty strong. The higlights of the dive was a big Napoleon Wrasse sleeping in a cave - I've never seen one asleep and it was impressive up close - they're big! Also had a fearless green turtle munching away at some coral. Completely ignored us gathering around him and continued having his breakfast. Entry: After breakfast we had our second dive. There was a monster current so I used up my air very quickly. We were hoping to see manta rays, but failed. We did see a large gray shark sleeping in a cave (Today seems to be the day for caves and big sleeping things). I saw a medium size eagle ray - he wasn't far away, but though I tried as hard as I could I couldn't make t against the current and just used up most of my air trying. I started to run low on air so I told the dive master I was going to ascend to ten meters and follow - that way my air would last a lot longer. But the visibility was so bad that from ten meters I couldn't see anything or anyone so I just gave up and surfaced and let the boat pick me up - it turned out that the others were no more than five minutes behind me anyway. Entry: In the afternoon I skipped the third dive (no computer and two pretty deep dives already). I'd gotten too much sun this morning so I spent the day trying to stay out of it - reading and working on my computer. It was my sister's birthday and since I couldn't call I at least wrote her an email that I'll be able to send later. We had a very nice very red sunset. We had a late barbecue on the beach. The crew went all out to set it up and there were over twenty small fire pits dug and lit and a huge table shaped like a manta ray dug into the sand. The food was pretty typical of the boat - not bad, but nothing special. After dinner the crew played the drums for us which should have been nice. Over all I was a little unimpressed with the evening. My shipmates had been drinking all evening and I don't even understand sober German... The stars were incredible though - the whole milky way, the big dipper, and the southern cross!

March
16
Maamigili, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
From Innfushi Island via Madivaru, Ari Atoll Found In: Route: Dive Boat Fathuhulbaaree: Innfushi - Madivaru - Maamigili Photo: Tailless fantail (?) stingray, Dive: Thudufush, Innfushi, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Tailless fantail (?) stingray, Dive: Thudufush, Innfushi, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Blue-faced angelfish, Dive: Thudufush, Innfushi, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Powder-blue surgeonfish, Dive: Thudufush, Innfushi, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Napoleon wrasse, Dive: Thudufush, Innfushi, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Orangespine unicornfish, Dive: Madivaru, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Entry: Th morning was very hard, I had to get up way to early again. The first dive was at 7:30 at Thudufush where we would almost certainly see manta rays - we didn't. We got dropped off at the wrong spot, so after wandering around for ten minutes the divemaster had us surface and the boat took us to another spot on the reef. Even if we didn't see any mantas it was still nice dive. Saw a turtle near the beginning but he was shy and didn't stick around. Also sa a giant stingray. He looked very strange because he was missing his tail. I couldn't figure out what this giant nearly circular disc with rippling edges was when I first saw it. Then I realized it was the biggest (about four feet across) sting ray I'd ever seen - just missing his stingers. Entry: Back on board the main boat I had breakfast then spent a couple hours sorting the photos and getting caught up on my journal. The second dive was at Madivaru ("Manta Place"). But once again we didn't see any manta r Entry: In the afternoon we did our third dive at Maamigili Beyru we were looking for whale sharks but didn't find any - last time the divemaster was there he saw three... There actually wasn't much to see - relative to the other dives I've done in the Maldives. There was a lot of current and it kept on change directions so it was a lot of work. That plus the somewhat poorer visibility made the dive my least favorite so far - though honestly it still wasn't bad. Entry: At diner there were tons of flowers on all the tables - nice but strange. It turned out to be one of the Austrian guys' birthday and the crew went all out, at least decorations wise. Most of the Austrians were up very late drinking - I think there are going to be some unhappy folks tomorrow...

March
17
Dhidhu Island, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
From Maamigili Found In: Photo: Mystery fish - not in books, Dive: Ariyadhu Beyu, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Mystery fish - not in books, Dive: Ariyadhu Beyu, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Mystery fish - not in books, Dive: Ariyadhu Beyu, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Mystery fish - not in books, Dive: Ariyadhu Beyu, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-009 Photo: Some kind of little wrasse?, Dive: Ariyadhu Beyu, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-010 Photo: A couple different kinds of surgeonfish, Dive: Dhidhu Corner, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-010 Entry: Up early again. I was tired, but a lot of the Austrians looked a lot worse (they had a late night drinking) - several skipped the first dive. The morning dive was at Ariyadhu Beyru and was supposed to>be a good place to manta rays. It was a good dive, but there were no mantas to be seen. The highlights were a bunch of lobsters, and a smallish green turtle. For me the best part was seeing a giant turtle surface next to the dive dhoni on the way back to the boat - it's shell must have been at least four feet long! Entry: Today's schedule was a repeat of yesterday'sa After breakfast I spent the rest of the morning on my photos and journal. The second dive was at Dhidhu Corner and wasn't so so nice. There was a lot of rubbish and no whale sharks to be seen - the reason we were diving there. I did discover a new fish though. When I showed it to Surga (our divemaster - who has done more than 4,000 dives in the Maldives) and he said he's never seen anything like it. Furthermore I couldn't find anything even close in the reef guides. At the end of the dive I came up with tons of air because I was getting bored and cold. Entry: I wasn't going to do the third dive, but when we got to the anchorage there was another boat just leaving and they'd just gotten out of the water after having seen a whale shark! So I changed my mind and in I went. It was a good dive, much nicer than the last one, but once again no whale sharks. I did see a bunch of white tip reef sharks (six of them) and a some turtles. Two of the turtles behaved very strangely - they were curious about me, and only me. The first one came straight at me then circled me four or five times less than a foot away - it made me dizzy trying to follow it, and was to close to take more than close up photos. The second one behaved almost the same way, came straight at me and then swam parallel to me about a foot away, watching me the whole time. They both swam at my front, maybe they were interested in the yellow color of my camera? It was very cool though. Entry: Spent the rest of the afternoon and evening on deck reading. After dinner I tried to do some more work but didn't make it very late as I was exhausted!

March
18
Dhangethi Island, Ari Atoll, The Maldives
From Dhidhu Island Found In: Photo: Yellowback fusiliers and blueline snappers in front of a coral arch, Dive: Kudarah Thila, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-010 Photo: Other divers hanging on to reef in current, Dive: Broken Rock, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-010 Photo: Fisherman bring boat in, Dhangethi Island, South Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-010 Entry: we got up early - again. The first dive was at Kudarah Thila. It was Ok, but not great. It was a large bommie standing by itself, small enough to circle, big enough to loose the rest of the group. I was able to circle it twice during the dive. The highlight was a couple white tip reef sharks at the very beginning. There were also tons of other fish (surgeons, snappers, triggers, fairy bassets, trumpet fish, wrasse, gobbies, etc) but nothing big or exciting. Entry: The second dive was at a spot called Broken Rock a standalone bommie similar to the fist dive. Except the currents were very strong and unlike a drift dive you had to fight them to stay on the bommie. This made for a very shitty dive. The visibility was poor and there just didn't seem to be much to see - maybe all the fish had been swept out to sea. The top of the reef was about fifteen meters deep so the safety stop (5m) had to be done in free water - within seconds of leaving the reef the currents had swept me out of sight of it. A few minutes later I saw another reef this one extending up to five meters - since I had plenty of air left I thought I'd go sit on the top of it and look around while doing an extended safety stop - it was only about ten meters away but I had to kick as hard as I could for several minutes to get there. I should have given up but I got stubborn. By the time I got there my legs were aching (almost throbbing) and my breathing was way out of control. After hanging on to dead piece of coral for a few minutes to let me breathing somewhat return to normal I let go and surfaced. The boat picked me up and I sat on the bow and was depressed about my last dive in the Maldives. Entry: A few hours later while the others were getting ready to go on the third dive - I decided I had to do the third dive. I just couldn't let that last dive be my last one. A good thing too, the third dive was at Dhigurah Corner and was awesome. It was supposed to be a drift dive, but the currents were so mild for most of it that it didn't work that way. I saw tons of fish. Even better, I figured out what was with the turtles behavior with me yesterday - two greens did it here as well, except this time both of them same right up to me and tried to take a bite out of my camera! I think it's the yellow color of the rubber on the lens! Very exciting stuff - I actually had to push one of the turtles away! Near the end of the dive I came around the corner and it was a bit of a battle to make way against the current (though nothing like the last dive - my legs were actually sore from that!) After fighting for a few minutes I got to a big overhang and hung on the the edge. Pulling myself forward and looking down there was tons of fish - including a giant Napoleon and an equally giant (!!) grouper (maybe a potato grouper?) This was one of my favorite dives in the Maldives and the contrast between it and the other two dives today made it even better. Entry: I was in my cabin when the others headed for Dhangethi Island (the local's island - we're anchored off of) when I came up I got one of the kitchen boys to take me in on the dingy). I only had a few minutes there as all foreigners have to be off the island by six thirty. It was enough it was just more of the same, perhaps even more geared towards tourism than the first island we went to. I had a struggle to find a store that wasn't selling souvenirs. Back on the boat I put all the photos I'd kept in one memory stick and gave a slide show on one of the guys computers - the photos actually looked much better on the laptop's screen. I stayed up a little later than usual trying to get caught up on email - something I'd planned to do on this trip but hadn't touched yet.

March
19
Male', The Maldives
From Dhangethi Island, Ari Atoll Found In: Photo: Sea plane landing, Lilly Beach, S. Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Sea plane landing, Lilly Beach, S. Ari Atoll, The Maldives
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Entry: Since I was flying this afternoon I couldn't dive today - the good news was that meant I could sleep in! I got up at the more civilized time of eight and started packing. I had breakfast with the others when they came back from their dive. Then finished packing. I was trying to copy all the photos I'd taken on the dive trip and managed to completely crash my handheld. I lost all the memory, but luckily I had backup from just over a week ago. Worse, I thought I'd lost most of the photos I'd taken, but then I remembered that I'd copied them to a memory stick last night for a little slide show - and hadn't cleared it yet! Whew! When the others left for their second dive I said goodbye. The captain to me to Lilly Beach resort in the dingy. I had three hours until my plane was due to pick me up so I looked around. That took 20 minutes. It's a completely soulless hotel - could be anywhere except for the beaches. And the beaches are protected by an artificial breakwater so they aren't even that nice looking. The resort lacked character - and it seemed, so did the people. Maybe I've just gotten used to too much character... Entry: I ended up spending most of the time renaming photos and figuring out which were which, and then getting my computer working again. The float plane flight was far less exciting than I'd hoped. It was only twenty-five minutes long, and there was some clouds that blocked a lot of the views. Still I had some postcard views of reefs and deserted atolls. When we were taking off I thought I saw a turtle which was cool - he probably came to say good bye to me (or more likely my camera!) Entry: Back in Male' I managed to get out of the airport quickly and caught a dhoni back to Male' proper. At the guest house I ended up talking with Andrew, the manager for awhile. He couldn't identify my mystery fish either, but took a copy of the photo and promised to have an answer for me by tomorrow. I walked into the center of town and tried to get my dive computer's battery changed - they told me to come back tomorrow. Not that I'll need it anytime soon, but it seems better to have it working just in case. With nothing else to do I decided to go face a weeks worth of email. At the internet cafe I spent nearly three hours - wading through 150+ emails (100+ of them junk) and uploading my journal entries and photos from the dive trip. For diner I went to the swank Italian restaurant and had Ok Lasagna for diner - I figured I probably won't have Italian in India.

March
20
Kovalam, India
From Male', The Maldives Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Route: Indian Airlines flight 964: Male' - Trivandrum; Taxi: Trivandrum - Kovalam Photo: Lighthouse beach (downtown Kovalam), Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Fishing boats getting ready to go out, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Post sunset sky, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Post sunset sky and ocean, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Entry: I got to sleep in a little and got up at eight. Packed for the plane trip then walked into the center of town. I spent an hour getting the battery in my dive computer changed. I'm not planning on using it for awhile, but this way it's ready when I want to - and all that diving without it made me nervous. After that I couldn't think of anything else to do, so I went to the internet cafe. I spent an hour there then decided to head back to the guest house. On the way I stopped in at a tea shop for some short eats (a snack), then remembered that I had wanted to send some books home. I only had a half an hour until I was supposed to leave from the guest house, but I couldn't imagine carrying the reef guide with me through India and I wanted to keep it, so I set out for the post office. I walked back in to town and found the post office with out a problem, though it was farther than I thought it was. I bought packing materials, then packed my box in front of the clerk, who then told me I had to go get it checked by security. I waited, and luckily they didn't make me unpack. The postage was going to be nearly $40 but I insisted on the printed materials rate so then I had to cut a hole in the box so the contents could always be seen, then go back to security, then fill out paperwork - but it cost a quarter the price. By the time I left the post office I should have left the guesthouse 20 minutes earlier. Entry: I took a taxi back to my room, changed into dry clothes, through my stuff together and was out the door. I had a bit of trouble finding a taxi so I had to walk a ways - so much for the dry clothing! At the ferry I had to wait about 20 minutes for the dhoni to fill up. By the time I got to the airport I was an hour later than I was planning - good think I was planning on getting there more than two hours early. There was no problem checking in and converting the remainder of my Rufya (they wanted an exchange slip, but when I pointed out that they hadn't given me one they let it slide). I wandered through the duty free shops - incredibly expensive. A pleasant short flight later I was back in India. As usual I managed to pick the slowest immigration line - I was one of the last people through. Outside the airport I had a quick argument with the taxi drivers, but as soon as they realized I was returning they gave in and one of them took me for my price. A short ride later, and exactly an hour after landing in India, I'm back at the Hotel Greenland. The manager hadn't gotten my email, but they still had a room for me - it just needed to be cleaned. So I checked my email again, then wandered the beach. It was very nice to be back in Kovalam - lots of people remembered me and asked how the Maldives were. I watched an ok sunset from the beach rocks, then a spectacular post sunset sky from the beach itself. Back at the hotel I unpacked, then went to my favorite restaurant for diner. Afterwards I went to one of the beach cafes for beers and movies the end of Charlie's Angels (again), and the There's something about Mary (also again). All is all - and somewhat surprisingly - it was very nice to be back in India.

March
21
Kovalam, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Entry: I got up at nine and then spent the entire morning reading and working on my journal. When I did venture out of my room I started talking to my neighbor who is on her honeymoon and who had just gotten back from Sri Lanka. Over an hour disappeared. Then I took care of some errands - turned laundry in (I was getting desperate), had the beach bag I bought here last time repaired. I had a late lunch at the German Bakery - chocolate cake! Then hit the beach for beach for the sunset and a wander. Some low clouds completely hid the sunset. After diner I went to a new cafe to watch the movie "Empire of the Sun". It was good, but it ran too long, so at eleven thirty they just turned it off!

March
22
Kovalam, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Entry: In the morning I worked on my journal - I have not been motivated to do it at night. A little later I went to the beach. It was really nice, but a little too windy. The water was all blown out and minutes after getting out I'd be coated in a fine layer of sand. In the evening I hit the internet cafe, then went to a beach cafe for diner and the movie "Snatch". After that moved down to my usual cafe for another movie - "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon". It was an excellent movie but a little difficult to follow on a small screen. At the cafe I met three English travelers (Helen, Esther, and Paul) who are invited me to join them to a nearby village for an elephant festival tomorrow morning.

March
23
Kovalam, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Entry: I got up at a quarter to eight to go meet the people I met last night. I got ready, threw my stuff together, decided I needed a quick shower to cool off and was out the door a little late at 8:10. I grabbed my laundry and just threw it in my room, but somehow it was nearly nine by the time I got to the restaurant - and I was supposed to be there at eight or eight thirty. Since the bus wasn't supposed to leave until ten I hung out there until 9:30 just in case. I headed to the bust station to go on my own, only to find there wasn't any bus leaving for at least two hours. It was starting to get really hot, and I couldn't motivate to do it on my own so I headed back to my room. I dumped my stuff and headed for the beach. Less than ten minutes there and I was running for my room - very thankful that I wasn't on a bus! Spent the day on my porch reading, close to my facilities, and out of the sun - a good thing as I got a little too much yesterday. Entry: In the evening the clouds rolled in and there wasn't really any sunset. I went to pizza for diner, then a couple movies: "Vertical Limit" and "The Beach". As I walked out on to the beach afterwards and saw the beams from the lighthouse slowly circling and the flickering lights from the fishermen's torches on the horizon I had a major reality check - I'm was in India! Entry: On walk back I passed a group of North Americans and joined them for a beer. There aren't a lot of Americans around this part of India so it was remarkable to see a dozen of them. They were volunteers for Habitat for Humanity - a pay to work NGO - with the weekend off.

March
24
Kovalam, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Entry: On the way to the beach stopped to check email. Spent most of the morning and afternoon on the beach - the wind is annoying because I'm always covered with a coat of sand, but frequent swimming breaks helps for a a few minutes at a time. At night I had an early evening dinner then went to one of the beach cafes to see "The Patriot". I ended up staying up very late working on a program - I got stuck but finally figured it out and turned off the lights around 5:30.

March
25
Kovalam, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Entry: I slept in until around ten when the power failed. Without the fan it quickly got too hot to sleep. I went to the beach for a few hours - windy again, I wonder if it's the windy season now. Around three I went for a big lunch at a new restaurant - I had the paneer butter masala, it was different, but very good (also very spicy - I leave worried that I might pay for it later). As I'm walking back to my room through the maze of paths I run into Amy! I knew she had left Madurai but hadn't heard from her, so didn't expect to see her. Back at the hotel we hang out a talk for a while. I agree to stay here another day then she is going to leave with me to go up to Kollam, Alapahluzha and Kochi on Tuesday. We head back to the beach for a couple hours then go back to the hotel to change. We tried to go watch movie but the sound quality was horrible and we had too much to talk about - so we gave up. We finished off the night with a short walk on the beach.

March
26
Kovalam, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kovalam, India Photo: Me, Kovalam, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Entry: We had a late breakfast at the German Bakery then hit the beach. In the afternoon I spent some time writing email and Amy wrote letters on the porch. I made a quick visit to the internet then we both went on a walk to take photos, but some low clouds meant there really wasn't a sunset. For diner we went to the pizza restaurant, then headed back to the room to pack. It took me forever to pack. I had to do a complete repack since I had left a bag behind when I went to the Maldives.

March
27
Alappuzha, India
From Kovalam via Kollam Found In: Country: India Stop: Kollam, India End Location: Alappuzha, India Photo: Fishing nets, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Fishing nets, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Boats, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Boats, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Boats, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: ?, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Birds, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Birds, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 378-526 Photo: Church, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Boat, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Boat, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Festival, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Festival, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Fishing nets, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Boats, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Fishing nets, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Birds, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Birds, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Birds, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Fishermen, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Fishermen, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Birds, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Birds, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Boat, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Fishing nets, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Fishing nets, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Fishing nets, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Me, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Boats, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Boats, Backwater cruise: Kollam - Alappuzha, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Entry: We had to get up early to make are seven o'clock bus. We were fully awakened when we realized there was a huge spider wandering around the room watching us pack! Hiked to the bus station and got there about ten minutes early - no bus. About half an hour later someone came up and told us the bus schedule had changed a month ago and now it leaves at 6:30! We were hoping to get to Kollam in time to catch the morning ferry up through the backwaters to Alappuzha (Aleppy). Since there wasn't another direct bus until the afternoon we hired a rickshaw to the central Trivandrum bus station where we only had to wait a few minutes for another bus to Kollam. The ride was an hour and a half - not too bad, but the aggressive driver made it a little scary. Entry: In Kollam we found that we'd missed the local ferry, but we lucked out and found that the daily tourist ferry was leaving in 45 minutes. We grabbed a quick breakfast of bananas, banana chips, and cokes at a small cafe and boarded the boat. The ferry runs from Kollam to Allapuzha through the backwaters, a long inland waterway consisting of a network of rivers, streams, lagoons, canals and lakes that runs parallel to the ocean through a series of small isolated villages. The waterway is often less than a hundred yards from the beach but only connects to the sea in two spots. The first several hours was fascinating - tons of activity. Village life included men claming, fishing with nets, and fishing from shore. There were also hundreds of the "Chinese" fishing nets - huge structures with big counterweighted dip nets. Some were free standing while others were connected to shore via shaky piers. The crude collection of lights over each net indicates that they must be used mostly at night. Some of the nets platforms were covered with hundreds of birds - one with what seemed to be eagles! Entry: A few hours into the ride the boat stopped for lunch. It stops in the middle of nowhere so the only option is what's being served. Luckily it was a decent thali served on banana leaves - not the best, but not to expensive considering the captive audience. Back on the boat we sat and watched the world go by and indulged in a cold beer (the tourist boat does have a few benefits over the locals ferry). Several people got on and off the boat when we stopped at the ashram of Mata Amrithanandamayi - it's apparent that lots of travelers stop and stay there, though the pink high-rise looked far from spiritual to me. The ride from there on was peaceful and pleasant, but a little slow. The highlights of the later part of the eight hour journey were a small set of locks and a tea break. In the late afternoon the sun was low enough to negate our shade and it got very hot. We finally arrived in Alappuzha just before sunset. While picking my pack up I remarked on it being too heavy. As I spoke one of the shoulder straps broke! An uncomfortable (due to broken pack strap) short hike got us to the suggested guesthouse - it was ok, but I think I've been spoiled by the hotel in Kovalam. After dumping our gear we went out to find information on tomorrow's trains to Kochi, a walk, and an ok dinner. Back in the room I spent a few hours re-stitching my pack strap with dental floss - I broke three needles in the process, but I think it's fixed for a while. I fell into bed exhausted, and was not happy to realize it was going to be another early morning.

March
28
Kochi (Ernakulam), India
From Alappuzha Found In: Country: India End Location: Kochi (Ernakulam), India Route: Train: Alappuzha - Ernakulam Junction Photo: Mela - Man dancing on an elephant, Train: Alappuzha - Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Boats on a canal, Jew Town, Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Decaying buildings, Jew Town, Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Me, Jew Town, Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Entry: We had an early-ish morning - not as bad as yesterday, but still earlier than I liked. We'd been told the train came at nine so at eight thirty we were there, and the train wasn't scheduled to come until nine forty - still, better to be early than late. With our extra time we had a breakfast of chai, poori, and vadai from a station vendor and looked through the guide books. The train ride was a little longer than expected - two and a half hours - it got stopped a lot. Once it was stopped outside a temple with a celebration going one. It was very cool to watch - there were men dancing on the backs of a pair of elephants! Entry: In Kochi we decided to splurge a little for a nicer hotel - we even have hot water! That's a first for me in over two months. We were tired, but instead of resting we forced ourselves out and ran around town getting the lay of the land. We hit the post office, had ice cream, then walked to the waterfront. We just missed the ferry, so we had some street food, and had to wait a half hour. We took a ferry out to Cochin Fort and wandered around "Jew Town" - site of the oldest synagogue in the British Commonwealth - and a maze of several hundred year old buildings and narrow streets packed with antique stores. Some of the stores were really interesting - containing the remnants of old buildings - doors, windows, molding, furniture, etc. Interesting, but very difficult to travel with! We eventually got tired and a little bit before sunset caught a ferry back, and walked to a recommended restaurant for a great diner. On the way back we stopped in at an Internet cafe for an hour (cheaper now that we're back in a city) and I got email from the Maldives - my mystery fish was a flying Gunard - they're not supposed to be there! Then it was back to the room for a (hot!) shower - goodbye beard, my first shave since Calcutta more than two months ago!

March
29
Kochi (Ernakulam), India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kochi (Ernakulam), India Photo: Canoe, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Canoe, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Birds of paradise, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Red flowers, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Sugar apples, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Our boatman, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Brown heron, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Palms, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Purple flowers, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Lotus flower, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Lotus flower, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Canoe, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Laundry, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Pineapple, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Metal jug, Village outside Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Entry: We finally got to sleep in a little bit. We had breakfast at a great fast food place - kind of a cafeteria - definitely a locals place. I'm running out of money, so I went on a quest for an ATM. Yesterday the tourist office had pointed one out on the map. We found the machine alright, but when I tried to get money out it jammed - I honestly think I asked for too much. I talked to the manager of the bank, but nothing was changing very quickly so we gave up. We went to the train station and got tickets - me to Mysore and Amy back to Trivandrum, both trains were full, so we're both waitlisted. Entry: From the train station we rushed back to the hotel to get our cameras together and got picked up for the backwaters village tour we'd signed up for. There were only two others on the tour which was nice. We started with an unexciting forty-five minute drive to a nearby village. Once there we were shown the machine used for separating coconut husks for coir (a rope made out of coconut fiber). After the factory tour we got in a punted boat and went for a cruise. The ride through the village was interesting. I didn't feel like we wasted our time or money, but the tour wasn't nearly as good as I had hoped. We stopped to see / taste spices and fruits, but it was a pretty minor component of the trip. We saw villagers doing work - people bringing up sand from the river bottom, spinning coir, fishing, and lots of women doing laundry - not much different from the window of a bus. What was good was we saw lots of birds and flowers - but not from as close as I would have liked. The two and a half hour cruise passed quickly, but the ride back to the hotel was in traffic and seemed to take forever. We had a nice diner at a swanky restaurant up the street - again, a locals place, but definitely top end. The food was good, but not as good as I would have thought. We then went for a slightly scary walk back down to the bank. Slightly scary because it was dark and we felt a little exposed - especially after I had some success with the machine - we took a rickshaw back.

March
30
Kochi (Ernakulam), India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kochi (Ernakulam), India Photo: Chinese fishing nets, Fort Cochin, Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Chinese fishing nets, Fort Cochin, Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Chinese fishing nets, Fort Cochin, Kochi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Delivery man, Fort Cochin, Kochi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Entry: We'd planned on doing a city tour this morning, but I had trouble sleeping last night and when the alarm went off - I was way to tired so I talked Amy in to skipping the tour and I went back to sleep for another hour. The tour didn't do or go anywhere we couldn't do / go on our own. We walked to the ferry, stopping for an ok breakfast of street food (I don't even know the names of what we ate, but one thing was vaguely similar to French Toast). We took a ferry across to the Cochin Fort district and walked around. There are the Chinese Fishing net structures set up right on shore there so we explored and watched for a while - a pod of dolphins came through while we were there. We walked around the fort remnants but there really isn't much left. We then wandered into the Dutch graveyard - a little interesting, it's so overgrown that you can't even see the tombs or stones - and when you do find them they are way to weathered to read any inscription or date. In our efforts to cut across the island to the synagogue we found the St. Francis church - not really very exciting. From the church it was a very long walk - and it was very hot and humid. So when we finally did find the Synagogue and it was closed... well, luckily it was going to open in a few hours, so we just browsed a couple bookstores (I bought) and antique stores (Amy bought) and then had a light lunch (including ice cream and several cold drinks). The synagogue (the oldest on the British Commonwealth) was a little bit of a disappointment. Not uninteresting, but only interesting enough to kill five minutes - not sure it was worth the effort. We decided to wait for a different ferry just to have a new experience on our way back to Ernakulam. Entry: Back on the other side we hustled for the Singapore airlines office before they closed - Amy wanted to get her tickets changed. We made it and she got it done and then walked back to the hotel. Since we're going our separate ways tomorrow we wanted to go to a nice diner. We ended up at a fantastic Chinese restaurant - the first good non-Indian food I've had in India!

March
31
Kochi (Ernakulam), India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Kochi (Ernakulam), India Route: Train: Kochi - Bangalore Lodging: Train: Kochi - Bangalore Entry: Slept in a little bit then packed. We left our luggage, but checked out of the hotel around eleven. Since we missed the internet cafe last night we stopped by then went for our last meal in Kochi and together. We went back to Bimbi's, the yummy veg cafeteria place we went to our second day in Kochi. We ended up running a little late (my pocket watch seems to be loosing time) so had to rush back to the hotel then on to the train station. At the station we found out Amy's train had been delayed an hour and a half so we needn't have worried. My train was on time so an hour later I said goodbye and boarded the nearly empty carriage that had arrived from Kaniyakumari. After stowing my pack I jumped off the train to say goodbye again, but I couldn't find Amy. Entry: After the train left I found out from the conductor that my direct train to Mysore wasn't, I'm going to have to change trains in Bangalore. I should arrive in Bangalore after 14 hours on the train at around 4:45 in the morning, then I'll have to wait until 6:30 to catch the three hour train to Mysore. It's going to be a long evening / night! Entry: The ride was nice and I spent most of the time talking to a Indian guy who had lived in New York for four years (he was on his way to Bangalore for the Deep Purple concert tomorrow night!) and a German tourist who was currently living in NYC. Around eight I jumped off at one of the stops and grabbed a masala dosai from a station vendor then nearly missed the train, jumping into a moving car a few back from mine!

April, 2001

April
1
Mysore, India
From Kochi (Ernakulam) Found In: Country: India End Location: Mysore, India Route: Train: Kochi - Bangalore, Bangalore - Mysore Photo: Mysore palace down the road, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: The sun behind clouds, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Entry: Somehow managed to sleep some on the train, but even so when we got to Bangalore at a quarter to five I was struggling. I had an Indian breakfast at the station cafeteria then wandered around the station and watched the sunrise. At about six thirty my train showed up - it's the worst of the trains I've traveled on comfort wise, but it wasn't too crowded so it wasn't too bad. Still by the time the train left at seven my bottom was already numb from the wooden bench. Luckily I had good reading material - I finished Prisig's excellent Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance and started The Crow Eaters by Bapsi Sidhwa (one of the books I bought in Cochin Fort the other day) which also turned out to be a good read. By the time I got to Mysore around ten o'clock I was really starting to get tired. I found a hotel that had been recommended - it's ok, though I'm not overly impressed. I was determined to not sleep during the day so I could get a good night sleep. I decided it was silly to fight the Sunday crowds to see the palace so I set two goals for myself today. One was to arrange a tour to the nearby Jain temples at Belur, Halebid, and Sravanabelagola.The second was to see the palace lit up at night. Depending on which guide book you believe it's lit by either 50,000 or 100,000 light bulbs - and the only turn them on Sundays and state holidays - and today is Sunday! Entry: I lounged around the room for a couple hours starting to get caught up on email. In the afternoon I went out and arranged a tour for early tomorrow morning (ugh!) then found an internet cafe to send the email I'd written. There's something wrong with my journal so the last few days worth of entries aren't coming out right, but the connection was so slow I couldn't figure it out. The restaurant at my hotel had been highly recommended so at seven I decided I'd go eat then go for a walk and see the palace when it got really dark. The restaurant didn't open until 7:45 so I sat around then had an incredible thali - quite possibly the best meal I've ever had for under one dollar! Around eight thirty I set out for the palace. When I got there it didn't seem like 50,000+ lights, it seemed more like six. And a few minutes after I got there even those went out and it was totally black. It turns out they only turn on the lights from seven to eight! So since there is no way I'm going to stay here another week it's very unlikely I'll get to see the palace lit up. Well at least I got the tour arranged...

April
2
Mysore, India
Via Sravanabelagola; and Belur Found In: Country: India Stop: Sravanabelagola, India Stop: Belur, India End Location: Mysore, India Photo: View down from the Jain temple on Vindhyagiri, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Jain temple near top of Vindhyagiri, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Statue of Gommateshwara (the Jain saint), Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Monks, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Statue of Gommateshwara, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: The statue of Gommateshwara, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: The statue of Gommateshwara, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Looking down on town, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Temple courtyard, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Fish wall frieze, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Fish wall frieze, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Temple gate, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Wall frieze, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Stairs up, Sravanabelagola, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: The temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: The temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: The temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Bull shrine, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Bull shrine, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 372-030 Photo: Temple door, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple door, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Elephants at base of temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Elephants at base of temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Elephant carving on temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: The temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Elephants at base of temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: The temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ganesh on temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Erotic friezes on temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Erotic carvings on temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ganesh, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ganesh, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: The temple, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: The temple, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Erotic carvings on temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Erotic carvings on temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Erotic carvings on temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Erotic carvings on temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple walls, Hoysalesvara Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ganesh shrine on exterior wall, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ganesh shrine on exterior wall, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-011 Photo: Elephants at base of temple wall, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Footprint shrine, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ceremonial brass elephant, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ceremonial brass elephant, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ceremonial brass elephant, Chennakesava Temple, Halebid, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: The temple, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple screens, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Wall carvings, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Wall carvings, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Shrine, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple walls, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple walls, Chennakesava Temple, Belur, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Entry: I got up at six thirty to get ready for my tour. I'm taking a bus tour out to the temple complexes at Sravanabelagola, Halebid, and Belur. It was far from cold, but cool enough for me to be happy about having hot water. The start of the tour was fairly typical - i.e. slow. After picking everyone up the guide collected the tour vouchers and we then had to drive around to everyplace that had sold the tour and collect the money. Then stop at the gas station to fill up. Then lastly at a drive up temple where the guide paid to have himself and the bus blessed (he got a dot, the car got a yellow and vermilion Omm drawn on the windshield). I like the group of people I'm with - I'm the only non-Indian so there's a lot of curiosity. I think I've decided the reason I don't mind tours in India is because they're still a cultural experience for me. In most countries if you get on a tour you are only with other foreigners, why bother to be in the country at all? Here in India the others are almost invariably mostly from other parts of India - so I get a chance to learn about what the tour is showing, plus about the people of India. Entry: We drove for about and hour and a half the stopped for an hour for breakfast (I had a dosai and poori with the usual dahl and coconut chutney - it was very good). From the restaurant it was only a half hour drive to Sravanabelagola. Sravanabelagola is a small town with two out of place hills in the middle. There are temple complexes on top of each of the rocky hills. We hiked up the taller of the two hills (Vindhyagiri) to the giant statue of Gommateshwara (the Jain saint - a contemporary of the Buddha). It was a long hike up 700+ steps carved into the rock. In my rush this morning I'd forgotten to heed the guidebooks advice and didn't bring socks. Since the hike has to be done barefoot that could have been a very painful experience, luckily we were early enough that the rock wasn't blistering hot yet. At the very top of the hill is a large (~50 foot) monolithic statue. It's a bit strangely proportioned but conveys a great sense of peace. The standing figure is nude (Jains are absolute minimalists) with finely carved stone vines running up its legs. It was all pretty impressive, but from talking to other travelers I'd heard it compared to Petra as one of the great sights of the planet, and it's really just another large Buddha type statue. We got to spend an hour in Sravanabelagola then it was back on the bus for the two hour drive to Halebid. Entry: In Halebid we went to the Hoysalesvara Temple. The twelfth century temple is very impressive - exquisite carvings cover every surface inside and outside. Besides the main temple there are two columned platforms each with a large statues of a bull flanking it. The carvings really are amazing. the entire temple is banded with six rows of carvings - starting at the base with a row of elephants (more than 1,000 of them and each one different), followed by a row of lions, a row of horsemen doing battle, flowers, then a row of friezes depicting incidents from the epics (mostly the Ramayana - though there were also my favorite showing positions from the Karma Sutra!). I definitely felt rushed at this stop - we were told we had an hour, but after fifty minutes I was almost forcibly dragged back to the bus - two hours would have been better. Entry: Another two hour drive got us to Belur. We stopped and hour for lunch which was ok, but I was starting to get annoyed that they were allotting more time for eating than at the temples. We visited Chennakesava Temple, another twelfth century temple. It also is covered with incredible carvings - almost as good Hoysalesvara. In fact it was never looted so there is less damage to some of the carvings. It's built on a star shaped platform which houses several small shrines. The temple is smaller than the last one (there are "only" 650 elephants on the base row - again all different). Here we were only given forty minutes - only enough time to walk around and through the structure once - not even enough time to even glance at the carvings on the courtyard walls (they looked good from a distance). Then it was a very long drive home. Entry: The drive was made much longer by the guide and driver picking up and dropping off passengers off for extra cash. I think one of the reasons we were rushed through the temples is so that they would have more time to make some extra money. After a hellish nearly five hour trip I was dropped off at my hotel. The three temples I saw were fantastic, but I was disappointed with the tour - it was 13 hours long and less than three of those were spent at the sites! Two were spent eating, and more than eight driving! Plus the roads were very bad and the driver worse - it was scary even by Indian bus standards. Back at the hotel I went out for a walk. I figured out that if I was going to call home it was a little cheaper to by a GSM phone card for my mobile - and I get the benefit of having a number they can call me on. My phone number for the next few days is +91-98452-98415 - they told me that it would continue to work into Goa so it might be good for the next couple weeks, but I'm doubtful that it will work outside of Karnataka. I had a light diner at the hotel restaurant. More dosai and dahl - good, but I'm starting to crave some western food - I might stop in Bangalore just so I can go to Pizza Hut! I finished off the day with a call home - the first time in three months.

April
3
Mysore, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Mysore, India Photo: Mysore Palace, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Mysore Palace, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Mysore Palace, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Mysore Palace, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Mysore Palace, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Mysore Palace, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Colored houses, Mysore, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Entry: I spent the morning writing yesterday's journal entry and then got distracted when I was looking up Hassan in the guide book. Hampi has some world heritage listed ruins and it sound nice without being too far out of the way - especially since I've decided not to go to Ooty. A couple hours with the guide book and the railroad planner and I had got a route to Goa via Bangalore and Hampi. Entry: I walked to around the outside of the palace grounds to get to the south gate. Then I walked around the grounds taking photos - you're not allowed into the palace proper with a camera. I checked in my cameras and then my shoes - as usual reveling in being forced to walk barefoot. The City Palace is gorgeous - very impressive - it could definitely hold it's own against any European palace! Most of the palace (at least the parts they let people walk around in seem to have been build without outside walls - so you had large marble coulumned ballroom type spaces that look out over balconies - very cool. Unfortunately they don't let you see much of the building and when I got to the end of the open sections I was just getting interested and found myself disappointed. The highlight was definitely the stained glass domes. Entry: Outside I collected my shoes and cameras and continued walking around the palace grounds the other way. On the far side, not too far from my hotel I found a pizza corner (Indian Pizza Hut rip off) - just what I needed! After a huge meal I took a rickshaw to the train station. I had a bit of a wild goose chase (useless, but interesting) through the bureaucracy of the railway's business office when someone directed me to the regional manager to find out about a tourist desk. Eventually I ended up in the general reservations office with everyone else. It ended up taking me over an hour, but I got my next series of tickets - and all confirmed. Tomorrow morning-ish I head to Bangalore, the next day I get on a night train to Hospet (where I can easily catch a bus to Hampi), and then two days later (the seventh) a train into Goa. Entry: After getting my tickets I went to an internet cafe. I fixed my journal (it's been broken for the last few days), answered some email, and uploaded photos and journal entries for yesterday. Back at the hotel I called my friend Neeta who used to work with me in Seattle and is now living in India again. We've been trying to communicate since I got to India, but a few minutes into the conversation I ran out of credit on my phone card.

April
4
Bangalore, India
From Mysore Found In: Country: India End Location: Bangalore, India Route: Train 6205: Tippu Express: Mysore - Bangalore Entry: I slept in and by the time I'd packed, showered, and shaved (I had to take advantage of the hot water) I didn't have quite enough time for breakfast. Conversely this meant I had some extra time to get to the station. So when the rickshaw drivers asked for five times more than they've been charging - just because I had my pack and I wanted to go to the train station (they figure I'm in a hurry) - I got annoyed and refused to go with anyone unless it was on the meter. I walked a few minutes and found a driver who agreed and the fare was under nine rupees - the first drivers had demanded 50. The train ride was pretty quick - less than three hours. By the time I got out of the train station it was two. I took a rickshaw to the area of town I wanted to stay in (M G Road). My first impression of Bangalore was good - wide streets, lots of trees, stately buildings, but still India. At MG Road I couldn't find a hotel - I tried three hotels and I'm sure that at two of them I was told there wasn't room because of the way I was dressed!?! Walking, the city isn't as nice. The wide streets and heavy traffic make crossing very difficult and it's hot. I finally got in another rickshaw and headed for a hotel in a different part of town - only to find it's been torn down. Finally I just told the rickshaw driver to suggest someplace. He pushed a hotel that didn't sound bad in the guide book so I agreed. It's relatively expensive, but so was every other place I've been in here (and it's still only ~$10) so I checked in - it only took me three hours to find a hotel room! I was starving by this time and a little fed up with the city so I went for an escape - Pizza Hut. I had a huge meal. I then hit an internet cafe to send the mail I had written on the train. By this time it was dark and Bangalore started to feel more typically Indian - teeming crowds, vendors on the street, basically familiar and comfortable. I found a supermarket(!) and bought some water and cashews and then headed back to the hotel. I have a TV with satellite so I watched a couple movies (Die Hard and The Spiral Staircase) and then went to bed. The hotel room isn't that nice, but it's generic, it could be a cheap room back home. This realization made me feel lonely and pointless. It's one thing to be experiencing something new, but why have I gone through the last four years only to end up at someplace generic and alone - it was minorly depressing for a few minutes (if the second movie had been good it probably wouldn't have been a problem).

April
5
Bangalore, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Bangalore, India Route: Train 6592: Hampi Express: Bangalore - Hospet Lodging: Train 6592: Hampi Express: Bangalore - Hospet Entry: I slept in again - I don't feel guilty given the all night / early morning trains I have coming up. I packed, checked out, and left my luggage and went to look around. I took a rickshaw and then went for a walk along MG Road (where I got denied a hotel yesterday). My thoughts of yesterday were repeated - Bangalore is a lovely city from a seat, but difficult on foot. There are great bookstores though. I spent at least three hours browsing bookstores and stalls - bought three for my upcoming beach time. There are also a large number of crafts emporiums. They're nice, in fact too nice, something about the sterility of the environment takes a lot of the fun out of shopping - I didn't by anything. I had a late lunch then took advantage of fast, cheap internet. After dark I went back to the hotel and had diner for no other reason than I had nothing else to do. At the train station I managed to find my platform and even more impressively deciphered the announcement when the platform was changed! The train was delightfully cool and very nice - the nicest I've been on in India.

April
6
Hampi, India
From Bangalore Found In: Country: India End Location: Hampi, India Route: Train 6592: Hampi Express: Bangalore - Hospet; Bus: Hospet - Hampi Photo: Giant festival cart, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Temple elephant procession, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Temple elephant procession, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple elephant procession, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple elephant procession, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Giant festival cart, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Temple flag, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Temple flag, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Bats, Ruins on Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-268 Photo: Bat, Ruins on Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Temple flag, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Elephant frieze, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Banana trees, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins in banana trees, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Banana trees, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Temple, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Temple, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Brightly decorated temple, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Bull shrine, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Shrine with drainage, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ruins, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Temple, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Sasiveralu Ganesh, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Sasiveralu Ganesh, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Sasiveralu Ganesh, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Sasiveralu Ganesh, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Kids on Sasiveralu Ganesh, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ruins, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Columns, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ruins, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Elephant steps, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ruins, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Eroded frieze, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ornate roof, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Eroded frieze, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ruins, Krishna Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins in banana trees, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Banana Picker, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Banana Picker, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Village woman, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Lakshmi Narosimha Statue, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Lakshmi Narosimha Statue, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Badavilinga Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Lakshmi Narosimha Statue, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Lakshmi Narosimha Statue, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Lakshmi Narosimha Statue, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Lakshmi Narosimha Statue, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Me, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Shrine, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Shrine, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Column, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Shrine, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ox with painted horns, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Scarecrow, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Shrine, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Ruins, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-075 Photo: Frieze, Hemakuta Hill, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Entry: It was less than five hours, but it was a very good deep sleep - unusual for me on a train. In Hospet I caught a cycle rickshaw across town to the bus station where I only had to wait twenty minutes for the bus to leave. An interesting thirty minute ride and I was in Hampi. We passed a very strange cemetery on the way. Some of the tombs were made of cut rock with big gaps - not sealed at all. Other graves were shaped like a body as if there were only a couple inches of dirt. But weirdest was at one end where the bodies appeared to be sewn in white cloth and left on top of the ground! Entry: In Hampi I walked to the guest house I wanted to stay at. I'd chosen the Shanti Lodge - more because of the name (it's the same as my favorite place in Bangkok) then the good write-up. On the way I passed a large number of people working on a giant cart - the wooden wheels were being rimmed in steel and must have been 12 - 15 feet in diameter! The cart itself must be greater than fifty feet high. The guest house is great - primitive, but clean and a very nice atmosphere. I hung out and had a delicious banana apple cake for breakfast and talked to people - there is a big celebration coming up on Sunday - hence the giant cart (to be pulled by elephants) - and I'm going to miss it by hours. Entry: It was starting to get very hot and I've only got two days here so I set out to explore some of the ruins. On my way passed the temple I just happened to pass a small procession - a painted elephant, and elephant shrine, several deities, and many drummers and horn players - fun! I'd set out for a couple hour walk figuring I'd come back and rest for the hottest hours. A good plan, but I got lost and ended up being out for more than four hours. Hampi is fantastic - it's in a mostly flat desert with a great topography of giant, out of place boulders and striking rocky hills. There's a river which is surrounded by shockingly bright green banana plantations. Best of all there are ruins everywhere. There are the big important ruins, with their constant stream of tourists, but pick a direction and walk a hundred yards and here are deserted ruins that are almost as nice, or maybe even better you can have all to yourself. It's like the other great ruins I've been to - a Capadocia, Palmyra, Petra, or Angkor. Entry: From the nearby temple (Virupaksha Temple) I headed up Hemakuta Hill. A rocky hill just to the south of the temple. The hill is very striking - a large rock, scattered with giant boulders and many dozens of ruins - mostly comumned madapams, but several buildings, and at least one multi storied stone structure. In several of the building I found bats roosting and would invariably scare them away while trying to take a photo. There were also stunning views down at the Virupaksha Temple and it's flags, and of the shocking green of the banana trees. There is also a brightly colored garish new temple - complete with aluminum foil decorations. Entry: As I headed down the other side of the hill. I passed the so called Sasiveralu Ganesh - a beautifully carved, large, monolithic statue of the elephant god Ganesh. There were a couple of kids trying to be annoying but they were too cute and good natured to be effective. I took a picture of them with the digital camera and both them and their mother were fascinated with being able to see their picture on the LCD. A little further and I got to the Krishna Temple - a large ruined temple and courtyard with some great carvings and gates - I especially liked the organic decaying feel of some of the friezes. From the Krishna Temple I followed a road through dense banana trees. After a short walk a giant head dramatically appeared above the trees. The giant four armed, lion headed Lakshmi Narosimha Statue. This was one of the busier places I went to but even with a fairly consistent stream of people (all Indian) it was still easy to find time to have it to myself. There's also an unusual, very large linga (the phallic emblem of Shiva) in a water filled temple next to it. From there I just wandered along some of the many canals, exploring small ruins and active shrines that I had to myself. Entry: When I got out the map I realized that I had gone in the exact opposite direction than I had planned so I wandered back to Hemakuta Hill and headed the other direction. After a delightful (though very hot) walk through some banana trees, and through several small villages (where I saw a man standing in a canal washing an Ox - a strange sight, I don't think I've ever seen anyone washing a cow before) I ended up back at the Krishna Temple! No idea how I got completely turned around again. At this point I was tired, sunburned, and completely out of water, film, and memory (for the digital camera) - it was time to go back to the guesthouse. Entry: Back in the room I tried to rest in the stifling heat that the fan just seems to emphasize. I ended up going through the digital photos until dusk. Between my real camera and my digital camera - I'd taken over one hundred photos today - even after discarding most of the digitals I still have seventy-five! At sunset it cooled off just a little and I went for a walk through the nearby Virupaksha Temple. It was interesting as the preparations for the festival were still going full speed - lots of strings of lights, decorations of woven palm fronds and banana leaves, and temporary structures being built and painted. My timing was interesting and no matter how I tried to escape I seemed to be followed around by this little torch procession with an ungodly loud horn - they were going to each shrine and in my haste to escape I just happened to turn the way they were going - every time. After the sunset I tried an Internet cafe but it was so slow that I gave up. I had an Ok diner at a recommended place down by the river - the highlight was watching an elephant getting bathed. I hung out in the guesthouses courtyard and talk, read, and ordered a cake for breakfast (Trying banana apple tomorrow). I considered getting up to watch the sunrise tomorrow, but decided I couldn't hack it - and I'll almost certainly see the next days since I have a 5:15 train. Entry: I really like Hampi. The people are very friendly, the streets are attractive and ancient looking - paved in giant stones - there are the usual hassles, but even they seem friendlier and more good natured. Even the kid are easily distracted from their demands for "One school pen". I'm thinking about staying an extra day to see the festival. This is the India I came to India to find. Or as another traveler said it's "Fairy tale" India. The beauty, spirituality, friendliness, value, and even the heat (which is the major drawback) were all what I expected to find in India before I came.

April
7
Hampi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Hampi, India Photo: Shrine, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: View from Mango Tree, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Entry: I got up at a reasonable time (i.e. skipped the sunrise) and had breakfast - still warm chocolate banana cake - yum. It was already getting hot so I was headed out to see some more ruins before it got too hot - yesterday was too much. When I passed the local temple and observed the frenzy of preparations for tomorrow's festival I decided to postpone leaving an extra day so I could attend. While trying to delay my ticket I realized that I had made a mistake - my ticket to Londa was for this morning - I'd already missed it! I'd been so careful in Mysore because the overnight trains always confuse me. But at the train station when I went to buy my tickets I had to change my plan to an early morning train and I didn't change the day. I went to a couple travel agents, consulted my train schedule, tried to figure out a way to get a refund (if I'd realized mistake 30 minutes earlier it would have been possible), and finally decided to take the direct train on Tuesday. The advantage is that it goes directly to Madgaon on the coast so I won't have to deal with the long bus from Londa. The disadvantage is that it costs me three days instead of one - two more days here, then a day wasted on the train (my original plan had been to leave very early in the morning so I'd be in Londa just after noon). By the time I got this all worked out it was after eleven and very hot. Now that I had two more days in Hampi I wasn't as motivated to face the heat so settled down in the cool to work on my journal. When I got caught up I hit the internet cafe again - still slow, but quick enough to get up yesterdays photos. Entry: Spent the rest of the afternoon at the Mango Tree restaurant - a short hike through the banana trees near the river. It has a gorgeous view over river and some ruins and an even more gorgeous breeze. The seating area is a series of ledges cut in to the steep bluff near the top - absolutely delightful. I'd gone for lunch and ended up spending four or five hours there! Besides a delicious lunch, I finished my book, and talked with other travelers and some of the local kids. Basically I just relaxed. I'd planned on going to some of the other ruins once it started to cool down, but it never did so it was well after dark when I stumbled down the narrow raised path - kind of scary in the dark - luckily there was a full moon. Entry: Back in the village I went to the temple and somehow got sucked into the puja (ritual offering / blessing) line. I was wandering around the temple enjoying the rarified atmosphere as everyone was ringing bells and blowing horns and just in general scampering about to get ready for the festival tomorrow. I was handed a scoop of sugar with some coconut flakes in it and told to eat it. Next thing I'm in a procession through the inner temple and being blessed with water - and having the proper motions mimed to me (accept scoop of water, drink, rub remains over head). Nearly everyone put a coin or two down as an offering, except the man in front of me who seemed to be offering melted butter (the priest gave him a jar to pour most of it in, and the remainder he added to the lamp that was burning), and another man who seemed to be offering some kind of spice. I think there are a lot of people in from outlying villages - the temple grounds are packed with people sleeping on the pavement. It's a weird experience to be involved in a ritual where everyone else is going through specific movements and you are the only one that doesn't have a clue what is going on - it's also kind of neat as I was the only foreigner present. Back at the lodge I sat up on the roof and played cards with a couple other travelers - the full moon had a circular rainbow around it - I've never seen it so clearly like that.

April
8
Hampi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Hampi, India Photo: Shrine, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Car Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Cow, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Waiting for puja, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: ?, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Omm, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple gate and reflection, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple gate and reflection, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Two sadhus, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Sadhu, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Sadhu, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ram shrine, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Ram shrine, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Elephant blessing boy, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-012 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant, Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: ?, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: ?, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Temple elephant on street, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Priests boarding car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Priests boarding car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Horn blower, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Kids on street, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Fakir, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Festival crowds and Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Main steps from bazaar, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Orange Ambassador, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Looking down on Hampi bazaar and festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Looking down on Hampi bazaar and festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Looking down on Hampi bazaar and festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Shrine, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Shrine, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Looking down on Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Looking down on Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Sweets stall, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Sweets stall, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Sweets stall, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Main level of car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: Car temple ready to go, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Elephant blessing a man, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Crowd pushing to unstick car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Big car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Smaller car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Smaller car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Smaller car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Both car temples, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Both car temples, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Sadhu, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Sadhu, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Larger car temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Car temple lodged on tree, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Car temple and Virupaksha Temple silhouetted, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 382-217 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The festival, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Entry: I had a banana bread cafe for breakfast - staying at a guesthouse associated with a bakery has its advantages! After breakfast I headed out in to the fray - the festival has made the temple and the bazaar in front erupt in madness. The two car temples are finally fully decorated. In the temple itself I get pulled by the crowd into line to do puja again - at least this time I knew most of the moves. I wandered around the temple and basically just basked in the atmosphere - unfortunately I'm a big attraction so it's difficult to stand aside and watch what happens. While walking out the main gate the elephant and a procession push me aside so I turned around and went back in. I watched the elephant bless people for a while - it's particularly funny (though kind of sad) when the parents force their screaming kids to get blessed. I then got blessed by him again - it's kind of fun. It was starting to get really hot so I headed back to the guesthouse for a cold drink - only had half an hour until they were supposed to move the floats. Entry: About twenty minutes later I was back outside the temple to watch them move the larger of the car temples. The road through the bazaar is absolutely packed, but I find a space to stand near the head of the procession next to the elephant (we seemed to see a lot of each other today). A long ladder was placed against the leading car temple (the larger of the two - I was told today it was 80 feet tall!) and the priests (?) climbed up in to it. A few minutes later the elephant leads a procession and a lot of people pick up the giant ropes leading to the mobile temple - I'm guessing there must have been around 1,000 people on the ropes. With a lot of grunting the cart slowly starts to roll forward. As the cart starts to move everyone in the crowd starts to pelt the temple with bananas - I felt sorry for the priests! About 10 yards down the road the temple stops and everyone drops the ropes - the show over!?! There are electrical wires crossing the road that prevent it from going much farther and I sit there amazed that they have spent who knows how much money and time to build this giant mobile temple only to move it 30 feet! Entry: The festival madness continues and I wandered through the crowds down the bazaar street and then followed the old road up a series of stairs onto a hill I hadn't been on before. On the hill I found- no surprise - more ruins. From the tope of the hill I could look down on the ruins of the Achyutaraya Temple - a large complex that looked very interesting. But it's too hot, so after taking some photos I decided to explore the temple later and head back in to town. I explored some of the stalls on the side alleys of the bazaar and took some photos of the very colorful sweets stalls. The men working the stalls are fascinated by the digital camera and I had to take everyone's picture so they could see themselves. It was fun for awhile, but difficult to get away. I finally managed to extract myself and headed back to the lodge for some shade. I wrote in my journal, organize the morning's photos, and hit the internet cafe. In the afternoon I went back to the festival when I heard that they were going to move the carts again. The electrical lines have been cut down and the street is even more packed. The priests are still imprisoned at the top of the car temples, and are still being pelted by thousands of bananas. The elephant is back at the head of the procession there are musicians (especially drummers) and people dancing everywhere. I found a building that wasn't too crowded and climbed up on top of the roof. It didn't feel real safe, but the view was good. The thousand people grab the ropes again and with the elephant leading the cart starts moving again. This time they pull the temple about a 100 yards down the road before dropping the lines. Entry: After the temple went by I climbed down off roof thinking the action was over and started to follow temple down the road - only to be nearly trampled by the rope bearers sprinting back to pick up the ropes of the the smaller car temple. The smaller cart wasn't as high, but it looked even more unsteady and the people riding in it looked to be hanging on for their lives. It got pulled down the street to join the bigger one. The entire time (I think since the morning) the barrage of bananas hasn't let up and the street was starting to get slippery with banana guts! Not to mention the gloriously decorated temple cars were starting to look more than a little slimy. There was more dancing and drumming then the smaller car gets pulled back to the temple gates. It was a lot harder to move the second time as the wheels kept getting stuck and the people pulling didn't have as much traction on the slippery road. There were two giant pry bars being carried behind the car - a half dozen people to each one - and they were used several times to get the car moving again. Entry: When the cart was back to its original position outside the temple gates everyone sprinted back to the bigger car and started to pull it back. It too got stuck several times, and after making it about a third of the way back it veered a little too close to the side of the road and impaled itself on a tree branch. The temple won't budge. Even with the people on the rope greatly augmented by people from the crowd and the pry bars they can't get it to move either forward or backwards. After nearly an hour a man with an ax climbs into the tree and hangs upside down from the branch with one hand while chopping at it with the other. Meanwhile the priests in the car are trying like crazy to break the branch with their feet - shaking the entire tree so the man with the ax is in danger of falling. Finally the branch gets cut off and with a lot more effort they get the cart moving again and manage to keep it moving until it too is back near the temple gates. Entry: I was getting hungry by that time so I started to fight the massive crowds to get back to the guest house. The going was very slow and I started to get uncomfortably claustrophobic. That motivated me to explore a little and I managed to navigate the side alleys (still crowded, but bearable) back to the guest house. From the loge I walked down to the Mango Tree restaurant on the river and watched the sun set while eating diner. After awhile some of the others from the guesthouse showed up and I hung out with them and then walked back late. At the lodge we sat up even later and played cards and talked. Mostly about what a crazy society this is. All that work to make those massive exquisite temples then move them a mere 300 feet, while covering them in rotten fruit - Bizarre!

April
9
Hampi, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Hampi, India Photo: Women selling face paint, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Women entering temple, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Women entering temple, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Detail of ruined gate, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: Ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: Ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: Monkeys, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: The bazaar ruins, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: River and Virupaksha Temple, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: River towards Virupaksha Temple, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: Decorated cow, Achyutaraya Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: Random frieze on roadway, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Endless row of columns, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: The temple complex, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 388-667 Photo: Bat, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Mountain top temple?, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Mountain top temple?, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Carved column, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Carved chariot, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: Ruins, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-013 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Carved columns, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Musical column, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Temple roof, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Carved chariot, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Carvings at base of wall, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: The temple, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Ruins, Vittala Temple, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Ruins and river, River side, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Steps down to river, River side, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Shrine carved in to random boulder, River side, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Lingas carved into random boulder, River side, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Lingas carved into random boulder, River side, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Ganesh shrine carved into random boulder, River side, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: River and Virupaksha Temple, River side, Hampi, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Entry: In the morning I tried to sleep in but it is just to hot. I haven't been sleeping to well in the heat (last night at two AM it was still 90°F!) so I'm already exhausted when I get up. I had a chocolate banana cake for breakfast - good, but not as good as yesterday's banana cake. In a futile attempt to beat the heat I set off down the bazaar (which seems to have mostly recovered from yesterday's festivities - I expected to see mounds of rotting bananas). About half way down the bazaar (this must be the tenth time I've walked the bazaar) I realize that all the shops and houses on the street have been built into the row of stone ruins - it's just that the nicer ones have been plastered over and painted so you can't see any of the original stone work. I'm not sure how I felt about that. At the end of the bazaar I headed up the old main road - a large, steep, series of stairs up over a hill - passing the obligatory many shrines and ruins, and a small mountain with some kind of temple or Ashram at the top - it was too hot for me to climb up and explore (though there was a constant stream of Indians climbing to and from it). On the other side of the hill I got to the ruins of Achyutaraya Temple. Except for one security guard and an Indian family I had the temple complex to myself. I took a lot of photos and harassed the bats trying (unsuccessfully) to take photos of them. The central temple has a sunken hallway the runs along the outside of the central shrine's walls it looks as though originally there was a canal and fountains (or maybe they're just elaborate drains from the roof) that ran along the hallway floor). This is where the bats were - quite close, I got within a couple feet of them. It's amazing how ingrained it is that they're scary - every time one took flight my heart would race - even though I know they're harmless. I made friends with the Indian family with the digital camera - they were amazed by being able to see themselves. The only English they spoke was "thank you" and "bye-bye" so I have no idea where they were from. The guard showed me that the columns in one of the mandapas are the musical kind - each is carved with a bar which produces a different note when struck by your hand - neat, I'd like to see the temple played! Entry: I followed the road of giant paving stones away from the temple complex towards the river. It was starting to get really hot, but I'm leaving tomorrow so this is my last chance to explore - at least I remembered to put sunscreen on today! I stopped at Sugriva's Cave, a temple in a cave where Sita's jewels were supposedly hidden by Suriva when she dropped them while being abducted by the demon Ravana (as chronicled in the in the Ramayana). My expectations weren't met, it was not very impressive - just a crack with some crude shrines - there are much better carvings in random rocks along the road (or sometimes on the road). I little ways beyond I went by an Indian man carving graffiti in on the other temple ruins - I went off on him. I don't think he understood a single word I said, but he was obviously proud of what he was doing until he figured out that I was mad about it - then he looked properly ashamed. I continued down the road which was running parallel to the river a couple hundred yards away. I walked past the King's Balance (supposedly where the king was weighed against jewels and gold at festival time) - now just a stone frame), lots of random temples and the remains of other stone structures, until I finally got to the Vittala Temple. It cost US$10 to get in (only 10 Rs for Indians), so I debated going in - on the one had it's only ten dollars and it's on UNESCO's world heritage list, on the other hand it's nearly six nights accommodation! I wander around some of the outlying ruins then decide that it's a world heritage site - it would be stupid not to go in. Inside it was very nice - pretty much the same as all the other temples, but more concentrated and perhaps a little finer work. The only drawback is all the guards, guides, and Indian tourist, the temple isn't crowded, but every time I lifted my camera there were at least three people running to get in the photo. It got to be very annoying. The main Mandapa here is famous for it's musical columns - even more elaborate than at the last temple. Each column had several bars carved in to it - each one producing a different note - so one person could actually play a simple tune. There is also a large carved chariot in the middle of the complex. The detail is amazing - originally the wheels even turned! Entry: I walked back along the river bank . There were tons more temple ruins on both sides of the river, the ruins of a large stone bridge, and many riverside steps and platforms (ghats?) carved into the river boulders. The path ended and I had to scramble among and over large boulders. It was fantastic - there were shrines and lingas carved into random boulders in odd spots. So I'd climb over a large boulder or squeeze between two and find a surprise. Many of the carvings were really spectacular, others could barely be seen anymore. Entry: Near town I came to a long gallery of temples and structures (maybe an old bazaar?) one of the temples was either newer, or just well maintained, but it was still being used and there were lots of people around. Including a lot of sadhus who I would have loved to take photos of, but I was out of change and I'd feel guilty if I didn't have something to put in their bowls. On the far side of the bazaar I followed the path through a cave in the boulders and ended up back on the riverside road which took me back to the Hampi Bazaar. In the bazaar I had another confrontation when I saw a guy throw a rock at a dog walking by and he and his friends laughed as the dog limped away obviously hurt - I picked up the rock and threw it at his feet and yelled at him, but they just looked confused. Right then I was pretty much over India and ready to leave. I settled down a little as I walked back through the busy post-festival market place - I must have had a scary expression on my face because no one approached me. On the far side of the bazaar I picked up my train ticket - which I was starting to worry about, and then was back at the guesthouse after almost five hours of hiking. Entry: I was pretty well exhausted - very very hot, and have blisters on my feet. I sat and read, then went through the digital photos I'd taken - even after deleting more than half of them I'm going to end up with more than 60 photos for the day. In the evening light I set out with a pocket full of change to take photos by the river, but my feet hurt and I quickly lost my motivation, so I hit the internet cafe, and then had a long diner. I was going to go back to the Mango Tree restaurant but I really didn't want to walk that far so I ate at new place - the food was very weird, but good. I spent the evening reading in the courtyard, then took notes for my journal before crashing early.

April
10
Palolem, India
From Hampi via Hospet Found In: Country: India Stop: Hospet, India End Location: Palolem, India Route: Rickshaw: Hampi - Hospet; Train 7227: Bza Vasco Express: Hampi - Margao; Taxi: Margao - Palolem Photo: Pulling into a station, Train line between Londa and Margao, Western Ghats, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Country side, Train line between Londa and Margao, Western Ghats, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Tunnel, Train line between Londa and Margao, Western Ghats, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Dudhsagar Waterfalls, tree, and the train, Train line between Londa and Margao, Western Ghats, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Entry: I got up early so I'd have time to pack and have breakfast. I also read for awhile. Then when I checked out it took a lot longer that I thought it would to pay - it took me a minute to add up everything on my bill - it took them close to half an hour. By the time I'd finally paid I decided that I was running a little too short on time to risk the bus so I decide to take a rickshaw - that should get me a 20 minute margin again. I had a little trouble negotiating for a rickshaw (why is it they're never around when you want one?), but finally I got one for a good price - but when I get to it I find out it's shared. I decided I didn't have the time to go find another one. It was actually fairly quick with only a couple drop offs, but then we got stuck behind a large truck carrying pipe section - we can't pass - and when the truck met a bus going the other direction the road wasn't wide enough. Both vehicles refused to back up and within a few minutes there was a log jam of vehicles trying to get through - but there wasn't enough room for a even a person to squeeze through! It takes us about fifteen minutes but we finally got turned around and was able to go around some buildings through someone's yard. When I finally got to the train station I had two minutes until my train's scheduled departure - of course it's not even there yet. Within ten minutes I was on my way. Entry: It was a long train ride. The highlight was coming out of the mountains about half way between Londa and Margao. I scored a seat in the open doorway and watched the scenery go by as it got dark. There were tons of rocky tunnels (always a surprise when I was sitting there and all of a side there would be a dark wall a few feet in front of my face!) and even a decent sized waterfall (Dudhsagar Waterfalls). We got in to Margoa about 8:30 and I instantly hated it - The hassles of people trying to get you to ride on their motorbike or rickshaw was unbearable and I quickly got pissed off and determined to walk. When I got to the end of the train station road I couldn't make any sense of the guide book and there was no town in site so I didn't even know which way to walk. So I gave up and go back to the station, but there was o way I was going with one of the sharks so hired a government long distance taxi straight to Palolem Beach - where I was going to head to in the morning, about 40 kilometers away. The driver stopped and picked up someone - I assumed a friend who was freeloading a ride - but I didn't let it annoy me. The drive was only an hour, but it seemed much longer as the driver was terrible and we had many near collisions. Finally a little before eleven we get to Palolem. The first place I went to the passenger got out also and followed me I felt it was too expensive - nearly four time what I paid in Kovalam for a dirty hut and shared toilet - basically the same refugee accommodation I got in the Andaman's except at city hotel prices. I headed off down the beach to see what else I could find - I didn't see the other guy follow me. The next place was cheaper and a little cleaner, but still more than Kovalam. I took the hut for the night figuring I'd find something better in the morning. I headed for the restaurant on the beach for a well needed beer and a light snack. While there the guy who checked me in came up and asked me why I didn't tell him my driver had brought me?!? It turns out the passenger who had followed me to the first place came to the second and demanded his commission - even though he had just freeloaded a ride with me! They gave it to him, then asked me - oops, but not my problem - it also explains why the first place was asking so much more. I got back to my room a little after midnight and crashed hard - at least it's a lot cooler here.

April
11
Palolem, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Palolem, India Weather: Partial Sun / Overcast / Rain Entry: I got a good nights sleep in the relative cool and woke up feeling a lot better. I hit the beach in the morning and went for an exploratory walk. My camp is on the southern end of the beach so I walked north for half an hour until I was blocked by a small river. Back on my end of the beach I settled down and did my usual routine of alternating reading, swimming, and just watching. In the afternoon in got overcast and I left the beach and explored the inland village a bit - there's not much here. I did find a (somewhat) working internet cafe - it was very frustrating, the power kept failing - usually just as I was about to send an email. I was offered one of the elevated huts. The cost twice as much, but decided I was more comfortable with the raided platforms - and it is a lot nicer - more atmospheric, and with great views of the sea (the mats on the walls roll up turning them into floor to ceiling bamboo bar windows). In the evening I went back down to the beach and took a table on the sand. I watched some people play volley ball and then the sunset and ate diner. After it got dark the sky started to light up with lightning. After a little bit I moved under cover of the roof as a few drops of rain started to fall. Within the hour there was a full blown storm - lightning and pouring rain - I'm a bit concerned about my huts roof, but was glad that I had moved in to one of the elevated huts so I didn't have to worry about flooding! I stayed up pretty late talking to an English family and drinking beer. There was so slight flooding and leaking in my hut, but the heavy rain slacked off and I put my gear on the spare bed and everything stayed dry.

April
12
Palolem, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Palolem, India Weather: Partial Sun / Mostly Sunny / Rain Photo: Sunset, Palolem Beach, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Sunset, Palolem Beach, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Sunset, Palolem Beach, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Sunset, Palolem Beach, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Entry: Another day at the beach. I started off with a long breakfast then moved to the sand. Spent the morning, early afternoon reading and swimming. After I decided I was too sunburned I went for a long walk in the village. The village has a nice atmosphere - shady streets, and picturesque, fairly prosperous houses with large yards and lots of flowers. I stopped and checked my email, I had a little more luck today - the power didn't fail on me once. Spent the evening trying to figure out my travel plans beyond Mumbai (i.e. How to get to Katmandu). There are a couple things I'd like to see on my way - mainly Ellora and Ajanta Caves and the temple ruins at Khajusaho. The caves are very doable, but to get to Khajusaho is going to take some very long days and I don't know if I want to deal with that. Right now I'm tending towards either flying directly from Mumbai, or flying from Aurangabad after visiting Ellora and Ajanta.

April
13
Palolem, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Palolem, India Entry: Typical day - spent the morning and early afternoon on the beach. There was a little bit of a swell running and I had some fun body surfing. When I'd had enough sun (more sunburn - especially right in the middle of my back where I can't reach!) I went to my hut and sat in the shade and wrote email. Then I wandered in to the village and used the internet. In the late afternoon I decided I was going to be social and was on way to a bar down the beach when I passed a volleyball game short a player. Six games later it was getting dark and I was exhausted. I went for a post sunset swim to try and cool off but it didn't work. So I went back to camp for a cold shower and then just went to the local restaurant where I drank three liters of water and a Pepsi with diner.

April
14
Palolem, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Palolem, India Photo: My hut, Palolem, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Entry: When I got up this morning I decided I needed a day off from the beach - that spot I can't reach on my back is just a little too sunburned. Since I've almost finished the last of my reading material I went on a quest for a bookstore. This being a major English package holiday destination I thought there would be a lot of options. Three hours and I don't know how many times walking across the village later I gave up. I found a couple places selling German books (I haven't even met a German speaker in Goa yet), and everyone had a suggestion on who might sell them, but no luck. The internet cafe's service provider is down so I can't even check my email. I had an early diner / late lunch and then played volleyball until after dark. A quick swim and shower then headed out to see what the northern beach was like after dark. It was almost as quiet there, but I found some English and Australian travelers to hang out with and it ended up being a late night.

April
15
Palolem, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Palolem, India Entry: Slept in then had Easter brunch - sort of - there were eggs (an omelet) and I bought lots of chocolate, so close enough. Hit the internet, then spent the afternoon on the beach. Had diner at Cool Breeze - an excellent, English owned, Jazz bar. Hung out with the same group from last night (Lindsay, Lucy, Jane, Sarah, and Alyssa). There was a group of absolutely wasted English guys that were to stoned to walk - a little amusing, but mostly just pathetic and a little scary - they made me embarrassed to be a foreigner.

April
16
Palolem, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Palolem, India Entry: Morning / early afternoon on the beach. Tried to write email in my hut, but couldn't get motivated - hit the internet, then spent the evening playing volleyball again, but most of the people have changed and it wasn't nearly as fun. Before diner had a snack of chicken spring rolls - they were so good I just went ahead and ordered several servings for diner...

April
17
Palolem, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Palolem, India Entry: Finally slept in after a truly great sleep. Had an extended breakfast (pastry here, lassie there, etc) then went by the travel agent, but by that time the airline offices were closed for lunch. Spent a couple hours at the beach with my Nepal guide book then went back to the travel agent. I found the flights I wanted then spent the rest of the afternoon / evening paying for them (Walk back to hut, via a short cut so I got lost, then back to travel agent, then convert travelers checks, argue about a photo copy of my passport - it's required, but the nearest machine is in the next town, I finally remember that I might have one, and promise to bring it when I pick up the tickets). Met up with everyone at the usual bar for a few beers. Alyssa and I head for Cool Breeze for diner again. On the way I notice a section of a calendar carefully folded up on the road - it looked familiar so I picked it up - sure enough it was one of the stoned guy's (from two nights ago) stash - maybe two cups of pot. It was Lindsay's birthday so I passed on the find as a gift. After diner there was a big night out celebrating her birthday with a big group of us in front of our bar where they (the bartenders) had built us a bonfire (nice even though it was way to hot).

April
18
Palolem, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Palolem, India Photo: The Beach, Palolem, India
Camera: Minolta Vectis 2000, Film ID: 404-048 Photo: Fishing boat on beach, Palolem, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: The gang (Alyssa, Sarah, Me, Lindsay, Lucy, and Jane) at Cool Breeze, Palolem, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Entry: After last night it was a predictable late morning. After breakfast hit the beach. In the afternoon went shopping - actually bought some cloth, looks like I'll have to make a post office run in Mumbai. I also tried to get on the internet but the server was down again. I had diner with the same group (Cool Breeze again). I tried to make it an early night, but somehow it ended up getting late again - though nothing like last night.

April
19
Mumbai, India
From Palolem via Dabolim (Goa) Airport Found In: Country: India Stop: Dabolim (Goa) Airport, India End Location: Mumbai, India Entry: Didn't get up quite as early as I'd hoped (I'd entertained ideas of taking my camera and going for an early morning walk). Walked to the travel agent and successfully picked up my tickets - thought they weren't all that happy about the photocopy of my passport that I gave them - I had to tape the pieces together first. It was a bit of a struggle to find a taxi. The travel agent had offered one at 600 Rs, so I figured I could find one for 500 - but when I got back to my half of the village everyone wanted 700! I finally found one who would do it for 600. Rushed through packing and headed out the door in a bit of a rush. The drive to the airport took about an hour and a half - the first half was pretty - countryside and foothills, but the rest was pretty suburban. Entry: I got to the airport a little early, so of course the flight was late leaving, but only half an hour. The flight was on Air Sahara, and they were having a promotion - I won a small blender / mixer - just what my pack needed. I left it on the floor. The flight was uneventful except for the very nice meal - I think airline meals in India are actually pretty good. In the Mumbai airport I wandered around a bit looking for a prepaid taxi booth, but finally gave up and negotiated on my own - it wasn't as expensive as I thought it might be. The taxi in to Colaba (where I had decided to stay) took an hour and wasn't very interesting. The hotel I'd chosen is right on the waterfront just down the street from the Taj (claimed to be the finest hotel in the world) and the Gate Way of India. It's a lot more than I usually spend, but I figured it is my last hotel in India. Entry: After dumping my gear I went out for a walk around the neighborhood (Apollo Bunder) until it got dark. I found a pharmacy and bought some ear drops (my ear is infected again) - the only cost 20 cents. I also found a book at a street stall - finally reading material again. I had a salad at a nice cafe (maybe a bit risky, but I figured the odds were better than they will be in Nepal). I went to the cinema and saw The 13th Warrior (Ok), and afterwards had a light snack and a couple beers while reading.

April
20
Mumbai, India
Found In: Country: India End Location: Mumbai, India Photo: The Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Entry: My main goal for today was to get a package shipped home. I found the post office without any trouble, but unlike the one in Calcutta there was no one to "seal" it there - they sent me to a tailor. The Indian post office will not accept a package unless it has been wrapped in linen and sewn shut. It took me a while to find the tailor, but on the way I was able to find a box and get the package ready. The tailoring took about ten minutes and the workmanship was very nice - kind of silly really. Back at the post office I relatively quickly got the package sent and by 12:30 was on the street again. Entry: I spent the afternoon wandering around Apollo Bunder and Colaba. I really like Bombay - or at least this part of Bombay. The streets are wide and shaded by trees. The buildings are ornate and stylish - some maintained, some decaying. The people are friendly and it's comfortably western while at the same time being totally Indian. I explored the ferry docks around the Gateway of India and the surrounding streets. I looked at street stalls and went to a couple of the market buildings but there was no way I was going to buy anything immediately after sending a package! Especially when I realized that I had forgotten to send my guide book so now I have an extra heavy book to carry. Entry: In the late afternoon I did a long internet session then went back to the hotel. I ended the night at the same cafe drinking beer, reading, and absorbing the atmosphere.

April
21
Katmandu, Nepal
From Mumbai, India Found In: Country: India Route: Royal Nepal Airlines flight 202: Mumbai - Katmandu Photo: VT train station, Mumbai, India
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Entry: I packed, showered, and, taking advantage of the hot water, shaved (I want to look clean cut after the border troubles going in to the Maldives). After checking out I walked to Apollo Bunder and bought a couple books. I took a taxi to VT (Victoria Terminus). The giant train station was the first in India and it very impressive - and beautiful in a gothic way. I walked around the outside and then fought the crowds (it is very busy) and wandered through it. Then came my great adventure - I walked across the street and had lunch at Mc Donald's. I've been meaning to go to MD's since I got to India, just so I could say I'd been to one where they didn't serve any beef! Inside it was the busiest Mc Donald's I'd ever been in - but the staff was incredibly efficient, and they all seemed so happy. I had a Maharaja Mac (big mac with pork - I think) and a couple vegetarian sides - it was pretty much as I expected - not bad, but not good. I wandered around some and bought more film since I'd pretty much used all mine up in Hampi, then did internet. I got email from Amy in Katmandu which was great - it looks like we're going to try to do a short trek together. I took a taxi back to then hotel to collect my bag then on to the airport. The flight was delayed by an hour so after checking in, changing money, and going through immigration, I sat down and had a beer with a guy from the Isle of Jersey. Entry: The flight was comfortably boring. In Katmandu I shared a taxi with the guy from the airport. He got dropped off at another hotel then I was dropped on a dark, mostly deserted street and pointed down a dark alley. I finally found the hotel around midnight - I had to wake the watchman, but Amy was up and we stayed up late talking and planning.

April
22
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Photo: Random shrine, Durbar Square, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Random shrine, Durbar Square, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-014 Photo: Women working, Swayambhunath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Woman lighting lamps, Swayambhunath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Entry: We had breakfast at a nearby cafe - even with no power it was so nice that it was hard to believe. I pretty much immediately fell in love with Katmandu and Nepal. This place has the riotous energy of Bangkok and the spiritual-ness of India, plus something completely different. Entry: We spent the morning checking on busses to Pokhara (where we'll be trekking out of) and shopping for shoes for Amy and a polarizing filter for me - we didn't find either. We walked to Durbar Square passing incredible random temples - from giant stupas to little street shrines - this is a great city. Durbar Square is an incredible ramble of old temples and buildings. There was so much to look at architecture, people, and goods for sale. It was almost bewildering - I think I'll have to come back several times. Entry: Amy needed to confirm her flight out of Nepal so we walked to the Royal Nepal Airways office, but it was such a madhouse that we bailed. We finally did manage to buy polarizing filters - we both bought one. On the walk back to Thamel (the section of town where we're staying) we looked at more shoes but couldn't find any. Eventually we gave up and took a taxi to Swayambhunath. Entry: Swayambhunath (also called the Monkey Temple) is located on top of a hill on the western side of the city. We started at the main stairs but decided to walk around the hill looking for another way up. The entire hill is surrounded by walls lined with prayer wheels, a tangle of prayer flags, and small temples - we quickly got lost. A couple of the small temples in the wall contained giant prayer wheels - maybe twenty feet high! Eventually we came to a path that looked infrequently used and we started wandering up the hill. We had to scramble a little and ask directions once but we finally made it to the top. At the ticket booth we asked how much and were told 100 rupees - a bit expensive, but we handed the money over - later we realized that it should have been 100 for two and that we had overpaid. Our fault, but annoying that the guard didn't point out the mistake. However the complex was totally worth it. The main stupa (towering white domes) is beautiful - topped with a golden tower and multi-colored prayer flags stretching from the peak in all directions. The whole stupa was surrounded by more prayer wheels and there were tons of monks marching around it spinning them. The evening light was great for photos even if the sunset was a little disappointing due to low clouds. The monkeys were entertaining for awhile then a little scary as the darker it got them more aggressive they got. We took a tuktuk back to Thamel - the road was very bad and the cart didn't have any suspension so by the time we got home my back was worked. Entry: We decided that it was too late to buy shoes so we're not heading to Pokhara tomorrow - we'll head out a day later and spend the extra day in Katmandu. On our way up to the room we spent some time in a book store shopping for reading material for our trek. We had dinner at New Orleans, a Blues and Jazz bar. Diner wasn't fantastic, but it was good and the live music was great. We ended up hanging out drinking the ice cold beer and listening to music until midnight. On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a bakery and got brownies - the perfect nightcap. I love this city.

April
23
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Photo: Shrine on street, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Preparing body, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Preparing body, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Pyre, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Pyre, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Pyre, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Shrines above ghats, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Temple roofs, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Looking through row of shrines, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Door decoration, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Pyre, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Pyre, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Linga, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Roofs, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Roofs, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Monkeys, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 185-030 Photo: Monkeys, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Monkeys, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Monkeys, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Monkeys, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Trident and linga, Pashupatinath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Entry: We had breakfast at the Pumpernickel Bakery again. Afterwards we found a travel agent and bought bus tickets to Pokhara for early tomorrow morning. Rest of the day was spent window shopping (except they don't have windows). I was on a quest for an ATM and was only partially successful - I found a place that would give me an advance on my Visa card. From the money changer we walked through some random small streets - lots of photo ops and just plain interesting or bizarre things. We made it to Royal Nepal Airlines so Amy could try to confirm her ticket again - this time completely successful and in less than half an hour. Entry: The next major task was to find Amy some shoes - she only had sandals which were completely inappropriate for hiking. We walked back through Durbar Square to one of the stores we were in yesterday. Amy must have tried on every pair of shoes there but eventually she found a pair of Asics that would work - we can't figure out if they're real or knockoffs. After the shoes we'd accomplished everything we had to do so went back to the room to drop off our purchases and pick up the real camera gear (I'd only been carrying my digital) and then caught a taxi to Pashupatinath. Entry: Pashupatinath is a temple complex (the most important Shiva temple in Nepal) located on the holly Bhagmati river. There are burning ghats there and Amy had never seen a pyre - so that was our main reason for going. Our timing was perfect we got there just in time to watch them finish preparing the body of a young woman. They finished the bathing and sprinkled vermilion and carried her to the pyre and lit it. Unlike Varanassi the preparations seem to be done by members of the family so there is a lot more feeling and also some stumbling. After the sobering experience of watching someone cremated (the slowly blackening feet sticking out of the fire was the worst part) we needed some air. We walked around the complex - there are hundreds of lingas, both out in the open and in little temples. As it started to get dark the monkeys came out in huge numbers - they were everywhere. One of the little ones was chewing on a cigarette butt, but the way it held it made it look exactly as if it was smoking - unfortunately a kid chased it off just as I was about to snap my photo. Later there was a second body - interesting because there was a lot more preparation and the shrouds were of gold and silk - we thought it must be from a richer family. There was also mourning where the women walked around the body wailing at full volume - I found it even more disturbing. We walked a little more then caught a taxi back. Entry: Back in Thamel I bought bag a locking duffel bag so I could leave most of my stuff behind on the trek. Afterwards we went to a fixed price store that Amy had seen. It was very reasonable and had a decent selection. We'd gone there to just get an idea of what prices should be, but I ended up buying a very cool wool pullover. We picked a random restaurant for diner - I had an enchilada that was good but not even close to Mexican and we also had momos - a Nepalese food that we'd been meaning to try (basically small spring rolls or gyozas). After diner there was a very quick Internet stop - I didn't even manage to send my email or update my journal, but at least I got off an email telling my parents where I was going. Back at the hotel I packed then ended up staying up very late getting my photos organized so I could have two empty memory sticks for the trek - finally got to bed just before three.

April
24
Pokhara, Nepal
From Katmandu Found In: Entry: Got out of bed way to early at five - after less than three hours sleep so I was very tired. When we checked out of the hotel the night manager couldn't find the key to the gate - it would have been funny had we not been in a hurry to catch our bus. After about a ten minute search (during which he also tried to break the lock - no fire hazard here) he finally found the key and we were on our way. We caught a peddle rickshaw to the bus station and didn't have too much trouble finding out bus. The bus ride was long, but not to bad. We got to Pokhara a little before two. Entry: At the bus station we were surrounded by taxi drivers - mostly wearing ties and all charging the same expensive rate - supposedly fixed by the government. We went with one of them and told him which guest house we wanted to go to - I got suspicious when he took us to a taxi that already had a driver - there were two of them, that meant they were after a commission. The original man (the tout) calls over another man and tells us he's from our hotel and he tells us the hotel is full. We tell the driver to take us there anyway as there are a number of hotels in the same area. On the way the tout tells us he'll pay for the taxi if we go to his hotel - and is quite insistent. When we insist on going to our original choice he got mad and had the taxi driver stop and pointed us the direction we had to go - we refused to pay until we were dropped off at the hotel so he got even madder and stormed off and the driver took us to our hotel - which unsurprisingly had plenty of rooms available. The manager was very friendly and it's a very nice hotel - he told us that they would have picked us up if we'd called ahead (live and learn). Entry: After a bit of a rest we headed out to talk to the hotel manager about our trek. We find out that we do need permits - contrary to what the Lonely Planet says. Even worse the office is a good distance walk away and we have at most fifteen minutes to get there (sometimes they close 15 minutes early) - and if we miss it they office doesn't open until ten tomorrow (we wanted to be on the trail before that). So we set out at a fast pace for the Annapurna Conservation Area Management office - somehow we miss it and keep going. Finally we find someone who know what we're looking for an he turns us around. By the time we get to the office it's fifteen minutes after closing time - but someone is still there and they race us through the bureaucracy and in about five minutes we had our permits - a lot more expensive than expected (about $30 each). The rest of the evening is spent buying a topo map, having a relaxing beer and talking. We tried to find a restaurant that was in both guidebooks for diner, but when we gave up and asked we were told it no longer existed - it had closed five years ago (both of our books are current). So we ended up going to the pub across the street which was pretty good - though the thing that looked the best was the apple pie we saw when we walked in but by the time we finished eating our mains there was no room left. On our walk back to the hotel the power failed and it was pitch black - luckily I had my little book light to get us home - but then we had to pack by candles.

April
25
Ulleri, Nepal
From Pokhara Found In: Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Hail Photo: Amy crossing bridge, Birethani, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Mountain shrine, Near Ulleri, Ghorepani Trek: Birethani - Ulleri, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Photo: Amy taking a photo, Ulleri, Ghorepani Trek: Birethani - Ulleri, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Entry: Up at seven. Finished packing, had breakfast and by eight we were in a taxi on our way to Nayapul. The taxi ride took about an hour and there were some nice views - the road was quite mountainous. One pleasant change from India is the driving - it was almost civilized and they even slow down for pedestrians! In Nayapul (really just a half dozen stalls on the road) our driver parked behind about thirty other taxis and we set off on foot down a steep path. At the bottom there was a picturesque suspension bridge then we entered into a small village with a few tea houses - from which we really started our trek. Entry: I was worried about the number of people on the trail - there were lots, both foreigners and Nepalese, but as we left the village the traffic spread out and it was nice - though there was still the occasional group of trekkers going the other way. The trail is nice and wide and well maintained - the steep bits have stone stairs, and the river crossings are mostly steel suspension bridges (though there was at least one wooden suspension bridge). The scenery started out good and only got better. The trail wanders through very little incredibly picturesque villages each with at least one trekkers' tea house. Around noon we stopped at one of these tea houses for lunch. It had a covered deck perched on the edge of the canyon with an incredible view looking down the steep terraced valley. We ordered our food and sat down to wait. An hour later we started eating and about twenty minutes after that it started to rain. The rain quickly got ugly and a few minutes later conversation was difficult due to the hammering on the tin roof. We decided to wait to see if it would pass. The storm was beautiful - loud and violent, but somehow appropriate for being in the Himalayas. After another hour the rain tapered off and we resumed hiking. Entry: A few hours and half a dozen villages later we started up a steep set of stairs that just kept going! After more than an hour of climbing stairs we met a guy coming down who informed us that there were more than 3,200 steps! Another very hard hour (I was really dragging by then) and we finally got to Ulleri. We continued through the large village (at least a dozen tea houses) looking for a recommended tea house. We continued climbing the stairs (the village is on the slope) and eventually reached the far side of the village without seeing our place. We asked direction and turned around. I had thought that going up was bad - going down was even worse and much slower. Around 4:30 we found a place with a name close to what we were looking for and checked out the rooms. It's very small, just large enough for two small single beds, the floor and ceiling is rough wood and the walls are very thin painted plywood. But it's clean and better than what I expected. Even better and more unexpected was the hot (well, warmish) shower - well needed and very nice as it was getting cold. We showered and changed into dry clothes then went down to the dinning room and ordered dinner. The clouds parted a bit and we could see one of the snowy peaks in the brief space - this place is so incredible! The break in the clouds quickly closed and then it really started to rain - and then it even got harder! When it started to hail the noise was deafening - and we were very glad to be inside. It was all very appropriate. After diner we sat at the table and read - there was a gas lamp and nothing in the room. Around eight we were tired and got a candle and retired for the night. I forced myself to work on my journal for an hour. I was days behind at this point and wanted to at least do today's - I'd hoped to do a couple other days and go through the photos I'd taken today, but just couldn't stay awake. All is all an incredible (and exhausting) first day on the trail.

April
26
Ghorepani, Nepal
From Ulleri Found In: Weather: Mostly Sunny / Partial Sun / Rain Entry: When we woke up the sky was mostly clear, but the mountain peaks are all hidden. We decided to skip breakfast at the lodge and hit the trail at eight. From Ulleri the trail continued up stairs for another hour or so. The next couple hours were mostly steep, but both ascending and descending. After two hours of hiking we stopped in the small village of Nange Thanti and had brunch. From Nange Thanti we walked through an incredible forest of rhododendrons - I never imagined that they could be so big - some of the trees were well over fifty feet tall! There was also a lot of small waterfalls and general riots of green, but the mountain peaks stayed hidden. Less than two hours out of Nange Thanti we arrived in Ghorepani. We quickly grabbed a posh room (relatively) and dumped our gear. We were hopping to climb Poon Hill for the views of South Annapurna, but the clouds started to roll in and there was no chance of seeing the mountains - we'll have to try before dawn tomorrow. We wandered around the town - it's a lot bigger than Ulleri and not nearly as quaint, but bigger is relative, it's still only a couple dozen buildings and no roads. We started up the Poon Hill trail to see if we could get a nice view down on the town but it was just gray. Back in the lodge it was time for a very hot shower - I find it very ironic that in the last couple months I've almost never seen a hot shower and yet here I am trekking in the Himalayas and paying less than a dollar a night for lodging and I get them!

April
27
Tadopani, Nepal
From Ghorepani Found In: Lodging: Hotel Panorama Point Weather: Sunny / Partial Sun / Rain Photo: Snow blowing off Annapurna South peak, Poon Hill, Ghorepani, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-015 Entry: I couldn't sleep last night - I don't know why. Sometime very early in the morning I looked out the window and saw a million stars - the sky was clear, the mountains were going to be glorious. So when the alarm went off at 4:40 I was waiting for it. We put on all our warm clothing, grabbed the cameras and headed out the door. The hike was cold and hard - I really felt the thin air and by the time we finished the 45 minute hike up Poon Hill my lungs, ears, and throat all felt raw. But the mountains were amazing. The glow of the sunrise caught the very peak of Annapurna South and then slowly traveled down. First the peak, then the connecting ridges caught fire - it really was glorious. There was several other giant peaks. The next most impressive one was a pyramid shaped Everest look-a-like that had a beautiful spray of snow being driven off the peak by the wind. We were somewhere above 10,000 feet and still the mountains towered above us - Annapurna was more than fourteen thousand feet above us! Entry: After hanging out for an hour and a half we took it easy on the hike down. Back at our tea house we had an ok breakfast and discussed our plans with some other hikers and a couple guides. We were heading to Tadopani, but just yesterday a lone hiker had been stabbed and robbed on the trail we had to take. After consideration we decided to talk to the police and maybe also look for others to hike with. The police said there should be no problems but we should stay aware and stick together. We set off down the trail and soon forgot our worries. The peaks were so impressive that every time I looked up to see if they were really as grand as I remembered them I'd be stunned and have to stop and stare or risk tripping over my own feet. The trail was different from the one we've been on. It's a lot more like what I had expected - much more primitive - sort of like what backcountry trail in a national park would be like. Also there was a lot less traffic - a little worrisome as we were hoping to find others to hike with. The first hour and a half out of Ghorepani was all up hill and very steep. At the top we saw another group of trekkers and kept them within sight - probably unnecessary, but it made us feel better. After the uphill part it got worse - it was all down hill and still very steep. Entry: About three hours into our hike we stopped for lunch (in Banthanti) - it was a little disappointing and while we were eating the weather started to turn gray and cold. We continued trekking an came to another long uphill stretch - about forty-five minutes worth. At the top we found Tadopani - our destination for the day. We checked in to the Hotel Panorama Point, but were a little disappointed by the view. The hotel is a classic old tea house - crumbling brick walls and crude wood floors. When the sleeping room had been divided into separate "hotel" rooms the walls were constructed so they're several inches short of the floor or ceiling - but that didn't matter as there were quarter inch gaps in the walls anyway. It was perfect - much more like what I had been expecting! Plus we still got a hot shower. As we arrived at the hotel it started raining (great timing!) After getting our gear unloaded and showering I spent an hour going through the photos I'd taken today - there were a couple fantastic shots. Unfortunately I ran the last of my battery down, so no digital photos until I can find electricity (certainly not here!) Later when we went down to the kitchen to get something warm to drink we found the rain had cleared the air some and we could see the mountains again - panorama does not do the view justice. Entry: Spent the rest of the afternoon reading in the hall (the only heated room) or wandering through the village (only took a few minutes as it's typically small). After diner I was going to get caught up on my journal but I couldn't keep my eyes open and went to bed around 8:30.

April
28
Ghandruk, Nepal
From Tadopani Found In: Photo: Mountains, Tadopani, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Mountains, Tadopani, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Mountains, Tadopani, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Valley and mountains, Ghorepani Trek: Bhaisi Kharka - Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Mountain peak through clouds, Ghorepani Trek: Bhaisi Kharka - Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Terraces and mountains, Ghorepani Trek: just outside Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village buildings, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Photo: Village buildings, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Photo: Village buildings, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village buildings, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village buildings, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village buildings, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Village buildings, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Entry: Woke up pretty early due to going to bed so early and everyone else in the lodge getting up (the walls didn't stop any sound - in fact they didn't stop much light either). Since the hike was only supposed to take three hours we lounged around and took our time getting out. We finally left Tadopani around eight. A pretty hour's hike (lots of forest with the peaks unexpectedly showing through) brought us to the tiny village of Bhaisi Kharka - not really a villages, just two tea houses. Since it was the only stop before Ghandruk we stopped and had a late breakfast / very early lunch - it was actually about the best food I've had in Nepal. From Bhaisi Kharka it was mostly downhill - unfortunately it was sometimes very steep. It only took us about an hour and a half to get to Ghandruk. As we came in to Ghandruk the mountains were peaking through the clouds and we had some great views. Unfortunately they seemed to hide right when we got to town. Entry: Ghandruk is something different. It's by far the biggest village we've seen and unlike the others it's clearly not based on tourism. All the houses are traditional stone with slate roofs and large courtyards for drying grain and vegetables. It took us a good half hour to find our way through the maze of paths - and we saw tons of people working - none of which spoke English! On the far side of town we found the tourist area - mostly traditional type tea houses, but also some three and four story cement monstrosity hotels. We had a couple recommendations and finally found one of them. It was a beautiful old tea house that had been recommended to us by a Nepalese man we met on the trail. It's by far the most expensive place we've stayed at (still only $1 each), but the room is large, the bathroom clean, and the shower was hot with great water pressure! It's also by far the nicest place we've stayed in. Entry: Since we were checked in before one we had the whole afternoon ahead of us. I took a great shower then spent some time reading and working on my journal. It looked like a storm was rolling in so we just hung out. At three when the power came on I was able to plug my camera in (the battery died last night so no digital photos today). Around 4:30 we got tired of waiting for the rain to start and decided to go explore the village. Entry: Ghandruk is amazingly photogenic. The small houses are all stone with slate roofs. There are flowers everywhere - we saw lilies, geraniums, impatients, roses (including a neon red color I've never seen before), rhododendrons, daisies, and many more. Plus the village is on a valley side with terraced green walls below, above, and across. And the whole thing is crowned by the most amazing mountain peaks - up where there should only be clouds. The people seem friendly and polite, but in a different way from the tourism driven villages that we've been in so far. Here everything seems to revolve around farming. We saw men and women on the terraces weeding and harvesting. In the courtyards we watched old women thresh the grain, separate chafe, and spin wool. There were also kids playing and running. The only drawback is that this is the only place we've been on the trek where we've had to deal with begging - the children were particularly bad. Entry: After two hours of walking around the village we made it back to the hotel. We had a great diner - both of us agree this is the best place we've stayed so far. Another early night - sometime around nine it was bed time.

April
29
Pokhara, Nepal
From Ghandruk Found In: Lodging: Sacred Valley Inn Weather: Partial Sun / Hail / Rain Photo: Mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village and mountains, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-097 Photo: Village buildings, Ghandruk, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Entry: It was relatively clear when we got up (at least you could see more of the mountains than last night) so we went for walk to see what we could see and take photos. Back at the tea house we paid and hit the trail at 9:30. We walked for an hour and a half - all of it steep down hill (mostly stairs), about a 3,000 foot drop in elevation - and then stopped for lunch. We ended up having a huge - and very good - lunch. While we were eating an American couple (Jen and Jamie) came it and we spent some time talking to them. After leaving the tea house another hour and a half of hiking got us back to gets us to Birethanti - lucky for my knees that part of the hike was mostly level. Right as we in Birethanti it started to rain. After checking out of the Annapurna Conservation Area we continued in the light rain to Nayapul (at the base of our final hill back to the road). As we got near Nayapul it started to rain harder so in the village we took cover in another tea shop. After half an hour the rain didn't lighten up so we decided to continue on - it was only about a ten minute hike to the road. About half way up the hill it started to hail very hard. At the road we shared a taxi with Jen, Jamie, and their guide back to Pokhara. The tight quarters, wet clothes, and bad road made for a long hour drive back to Pokhara. Entry: In Pokhara our hotel hadn't saved us a room even though we had made reservations so we went down the street to a much nicer (and more expensive) place. It's very posh, but we felt like we deserved the treat. We had hot showers, relaxed, and then head out for an email session. It was a very short session as internet access is very expensive in Pokhara. We had a light pub diner and a few beers then walked back to the hotel checking out some of the stores. We were both too exhausted to spend the energy shopping as it was 8:30 - past our trekking bedtime!

April
30
Pokhara, Nepal
Found In: Lodging: Sacred Valley Inn Weather: Overcast / rain Entry: After turning in our filthy trekking cloths to be washed we had an early breakfast at the Pumpernickel Bakery (same owners as in Katmandu) right on the lake. Unfortunately the weather wasn't so cooperative and we didn't get to see any of Pokhara's famous mountain views. We ended up spending most of the day shopping - the monsoon season is starting and tourist are getting rare so the merchants are willing to deal. On the first pass I almost accidentally bought a mask - it's old and beat up, but looks cool - and Amy bought a prayer wheel. We dropped our camera and purchases off at the hotel and called to make hotel reservations in Katmandu, and then bough bus tickets for tomorrow. We hot some more shops, then stopped for some great home made mint chocolate chip ice cream - incredibly minty! More shops as I got interested in buying a nice parka - I walked away when the bargaining stalled with a difference of about 65 cents. We went to happy hour and had a couple beers then I went and found a shop that was willing to sell me the jacket for my price - perfect timing as it started to drizzle. We had diner at a recommended pub, which was pretty good, then Amy went back to one of the stores to buy a bowl. Entry: Back at hotel we started to unpleasant task of packing - this was difficult because I'd left most of my stuff behind when we went trekking so now I was faced with a complete repack. To make things harder the laundry was still totally wet - it doesn't look like it was even washed until late afternoon. While I was trying to pack what I could so that I'd only have to pack the clothes in the morning (we've got an early morning bus) the power failed so I had to finish by candle light.

May, 2001

May
1
Katmandu, Nepal
From Pokhara Found In: Photo: Mountains from bus station, Pokhara, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Photo: Prayer flags in front of the stupa, Bodhnath, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Entry: We woke up to clear skies and the mountain view from our balcony was glorious - too bad we were leaving. I went and collected the laundry so I could finish packing - the overnight wind helped a little, but the clothes are still pretty wet. We caught a taxi to the bus station where we found out our bus is late - but it was no problem with a mountain view like that! The bus ride back to Katmandu was very slow. At one point traffic was stopped for over an hour - we never found out why. I was getting very worried when after three hours we'd only gone 30 miles, but we were able to make up a little time and we got in to Katmandu around 3:30 in the evening. We shared a taxi with Jamie and Jen again back to Thamel. Luckily there was no problem with out reservation and we were able to check in to our nice room (though slightly pricey) room quickly. Entry: After dropping the gear off we headed out to spend the evening at Bodhnath. The ride out was long due to the traffic, but it was well worth it. Bodhnath has Nepal's largest stupa (124 feet tall) and is one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist sites. The stupa really is beautiful - it's on a large four level octagonal base and the buildings have encroached so closely that it now looks as if it's in a courtyard. It was very crowded and very active - excellent people watching - and as it got later it only got more and more crowded. We spend two hours and walked around it a dozen or so times on each level. We watched the sunset and people, and took lots of pictures. After sunset we took a tuktuk (auto rickshaw) back to Durbar Square as Amy wanted to do some last minute shopping. From the square we slowly strolled back to Thamel enjoying the night air and slowly browsing some of the shops. Back in Thamel Amy dumped her purchases in the room and we headed out to diner and live music at the New Orleans Cafe (again).

May
2
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Photo: Katmandu's skyline, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Swayambhunath and skyline, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Katmandu's skyline, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Photo: Swayambhunath and skyline, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Entry: Woke up early to storm winds and heavy rain - the palm tree outside our window was bent nearly double! We spent the morning getting packed (our clothes were finally dry). On our way out to breakfast the rain had tapered off a little so we climbed to the roof of the hotel for the view - you could actually see the Himalayas (some of them anyway)! We had breakfast at our usual, the Pumpernickel Bakery, and then went for a wander. Amy continued her last minute shopping spree and was pretty successful. Back at the hotel I moved rooms - to a cheaper single - and then Amy and I caught a taxi to the airport. Her check-in was relatively painless and it looked as if her flight was going to leave on time so we hung out for awhile talking then she went through immigration to head back to India (and then home). I quickly caught a taxi back to Thamel. Entry: Took my pile of books in to a bookstore and traded them for a couple new novels, then spent the rest of the afternoon writing in my journal (I was a few days behind), having pizza, and reading. In the evening I went to an internet cafe and spent two hours getting my journal updated, uploading nearly 100 photos from trekking and Nepal in general, and trying to do research into visiting Tibet. I failed to find any good information on getting in to Tibet so I went by Jen and Jamie's hotel and left a message for them to let me know what they had found out (they want to leave for Tibet in the next couple days and were going to have spent yesterday looking at various tour companies). Back at the guest house I sat in the patio and drank beer and read.

May
3
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Weather: Rain Entry: This morning Jamie and Jen came by the guest house to tell me what they had found out about Tibet trips - very nice of them, I was just hoping they'd take the time to email me. I went out to talk to the Tibet company their going with. I wasn't all that impressed, and heard two slightly different stories from the two people I talked with there. I decided to hit a few random tour operators on my way back to my room - everyone has a different story (you can only stay in Tibet with the tour group / you can stay as long as you want / the visa takes a day / the visa takes a week / the embassy is closed until the 8th / 9th / 15th... etc.) I was a little frustrated so I decided to drop Tibet and look into what I want to do with the rest of my time in Nepal. Entry: I stopped at a few travel agents to ask about flights to Lukla (near Everest) and to Bangkok. The flights to Bangkok are going to be more than twice as expensive as I thought - ouch! The flights to Lukla are a little more than I thought, but that's because the runway is being repaired so they have to bring you in nearby then helicopter the rest of the way - not really a bad thing. I found the Ultimate Descents office (recommended in Pokhara for a Tibet trip, and in my guide book for rafting) and talked to their Tibet guy - again, a slightly different story, but the company seems a lot more reliable. I also talked to their rafting people and decided to take a five day river kayaking clinic. Unfortunately when I came back to sign up for the clinic I found out it had been canceled - the rains had swollen the river so it was too rough. So I ended up signing up for a five day rafting trip on the Marsyangdi River leaving on the fifth. If I like the company then I'll sign up for their Tibet trip when I get back (I negotiated for a slight discount since I was booking two trips). Entry: I was totally sick of the rain so I went back to my room to spend a few hours reading. I didn't get much reading done because of the fantastic lightning show - incredible bolts, and thunder that shook the window alarmingly. At around eight I decided to be social and go out and get a beer. I sat and read for a couple hours and was about to head home when a Scottish guy and two Kiwis joined me. The Scottish guy had been in Nepal for a month and was leaving tomorrow, the Kiwis had just arrived. Next thing I knew it had turned into a big night and it was after hours and we were talking our way into a closed bar. Finally staggered back to the hotel and my bed around two thirty.

May
4
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Entry: It was not a good morning - I felt severely hung over. I dragged myself out of bed feeling very ill. After breakfast at the Pumpernickel Bakery I started to feel a little more solid - but not much. I spent the day getting cash and paying for my rafting trip (starts tomorrow). In the evening I had an ok pizza, hit the internet briefly, then went to a meeting for the rafting trip. I tried to be good, but by this time I was feeling much better and the meeting quickly turned to beers and diner with some English med. students, and two Canadians. On my way home I stopped at the market for some sundries for the trip (sunscreen, batteries, and chocolate). Stayed up later than planned packing and just trying to get organized.

May
5
Khudi, Nepal
From Katmandu via Besisahar Found In: Photo: Group crossing suspension bridge, Near Khudi, Marshyangdi River, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Entry: Got up early to finish packing and put my luggage in storage. Met the rafting group at a restaurant for breakfast, then we all piled on a bus for the six hour ride to Besisahar. When we left Katmandu it was a beautiful morning, but as we were driving it started to cloud up and look very threatening. Once the bus got there we continued a couple hours further on foot to our campsite near Khudi on the Marshyangdi River. After we finished setting up camp I went for a very cold swim then joined the rest of the group for hot rum punch and beers. The skies cleared and we got a fantastic view of the Annapurna and Manaslu mountains. After diner we continued celebrating one of the girls birthdays (and Cinquo de Mayo) with the beers and just marveled at the stars and nearly full moon, then went to bed fairly early.

May
6
Beach below Besisahar, Nepal
From Khudi Found In: Weather: Partial Sun / Overcast / Rain Entry: For whatever reason I woke up very early. I tried to get back to sleep, but decided that everyone else was up and that it was getting late so I crawled out - only to find that I was the first up and it wasn't even six yet! It was very beautiful though so I sat on a rock next to the river and read as the mountains slowly revealed themselves. After the others got up we had breakfast and broke camp. Around nine we got on the water and spent about an hour learning how to maneuver the raft when commanded. We finally hit the river for real and rafted for two hours until we stopped for lunch. It was fun but there were only two really exciting rapids - I'd been led to expect the river to be nearly constant white water. After lunch we continued for another hour to our campsite. Before setting up camp a group of us decided to swim (with life vests and helmets) the last set of rapids before camp. It was pretty challenging to get out far enough into the rive to feel like I had a straight line through - but I managed. It was fun but felt a little out of control. I didn't have any problems, but some of the other rafters got banged up pretty good. Spent the rest of the evening hanging out, talking, reading, and chopping garlic and ginger for diner. Diner was fantastic - garlic bread and ginger beer plus the usual salads. We realized it was the Buddha's birthday so we sat around drinking beer in the partially deflated raft - which was actually very comfortable (we found out later the guides weren't too happy as they wanted to use the raft to make their tent...) The full moon was out for awhile, then the clouds hid it. When it started to rain everyone went to bed.

May
7
Bhotodar, Nepal
From Beach below Besisahar Found In: Photo: Rafting group breaking camp, Besisahar, Marshyangdi River, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Entry: Another early day and another beautiful clear view of the mountain peaks. After a leisurely breakfast and packing we were on the water by nine. We spent most of the day on the water and it was very fun. Lot's of big rapids, fast water, and beautiful valley views. The rapids were as good as any I saw in the Zambezi. We even started to loose people (briefly) out of the raft though I managed to hang on. On one rapid (Boat Eater?) we nearly flipped the boat stern over bow. I'm not sure how we didn't as I was certain we were more than vertical on our way over - but somehow we landed right side up and only lost one person (who was quickly picked up by one of the kayakers). Entry: The highlight of the day was the narrow canyon at Phaliya Sanghu. The entire river is squeezed into a narrow canyon with absolutely vertical cliffs more than two hundred feet high - best of all we jumped out of the rafts and floated through it! There was some minor problems as some little kids threw rocks off the suspension bridge (about fifteen stories up!) but the rocks didn't get anywhere near and they were quickly stopped. There weren't any rapids in the canyon, but it was so striking and beautiful, and the cold water was very relaxing. Entry: After lunch we went through several more rapids and several villages where big groups of kids would wave and shout and a smaller group would race out and try to hang on to the rafts for a few minutes. We ended up on a flat grassy camp site under the village of Bhoteodar next to a small Shiva temple. We finished in mid-afternoon, but I'd gotten way to much sun already so I just spent the rest of the day in the shade finishing my book. Some of the other guys played catch and were quickly joined by some of the village boys. It was pretty amusing to watch the guys teach the kids to throw and catch - it really didn't take long until the kids were the better players. After dinner we sat in the two boats (both had been dragged up tonight) and stayed up relatively late talking.

May
8
Katmandu, Nepal
From Bhotodar Found In: Photo: Rafting group photo, Bimalnagar, Marshyangdi River, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Photo: Waiting for the bus, Bimalnagar, Marshyangdi River, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Photo: Rafting group photo with the bus, Bimalnagar, Marshyangdi River, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Entry: I woke up feeling sore - a bit of a surprise since the day before had been no problem. Right after I got out of the tent it started to rain lightly - but it was clear to the north so we still got our morning view of the Annapurna and Manaslu mountains. It might have been the rain but it seemed as if it took a lot longer for the guides to get things going this morning. The section of river we did today was a lot calmer so there was time for a lot of silliness - we flipped the oat intentionally twice and there was a lot of swimming (not always voluntarily). We even finished the trip (including the last gentle rapids) with the raft upside down - very challenging to stay on! Entry: There were a couple good rapids and everyone went swimming at least once accidentally. My entire side of the raft got dumped when a shallow rock stopped us instead of bouncing us around - it was pretty scary as it was just upstream from the days biggest rapids, but it was shallow enough so that I could keep myself and one of the girls from drifting too fast and after a few minutes the raft was able to catch up to us. Entry: We had an early lunch and then rafted another thirty minutes to Bimalnagar (the take out point). We had to wait ninety minutes for the bus, so it was shortly after two by the time we were on our way. There was a short ride to a small town where almost everyone transferred to a bus going to Pokhara (all the guides and kayakers and seven of the rafters). It was kind of sad. There were just five of us on the bus for the long ride back to Katmandu. The road was painfully slow and we got stopped for almost an hour at an avalanche. We finally got in to Katmandu just before eight. I was a little surprised to be able to get a room at the Kathmandu Guesthouse and had a fantastic shower. After quickly checking my email (there wasn't much as my account had run out of disk space and started refusing mail) I met up with the others (Chris, Bairbre, Ang, and Cara) for diner. Everyone was understandably tired so we broke up pretty early. I tried to work on my journal but couldn't keep my eyes open.

May
9
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Weather: Rain Entry: I slept in until after ten. The first stop was at the bookstore to sell back some books and pick up some new reading material (Arthur Golden's Memoirs of a Geisha). I had breakfast at Just Juice and ran into Chrissie (from the Marshyangdi rafting trip) and a friend of hers. After a long leisurely breakfast I went by Ultimate Descents to get more Tibet info - I decided to do it, but they needed a photocopy of my passport and the money. I went and got photocopies of my passport made and then did quick internet stop. It was raining harder so I took cover in my room and wrote the journal entries for the rafting trip. I realized it was getting late, so I went to the bank for money. After dealing with the bureaucracy I was feeling a little flustered and realized that I hadn't even accomplished my one goal for the day - to shave. So I decided to pamper my self and get a shave from a recommended barber. I negotiated a haircut as well (decided I don't want to enter China looking at all dodgy - especially after my Maldives experience). The barber's clippers were pathetic and he gave up on them about a third of the way through - I looked ridiculous - but he finished the rest by hand. It turned out a bit shorter than I had planned (probably the shortest ever except for when I shaved my head in Senegal), but OK. The shave was absolutely decadent - twice with straightedge, then antiseptic rock, antiseptic cream, lotion and a facial massage. Then he gave me what was probably the best massage I've ever had. I gave him a twenty-five percent tip because I was so impressed, and was even planning to go back just for the massage, but then he ruined it and demanded more money. Still an hour and a half - haircut, shave, and massage - all for about $3. It was all great (except the extra charge), but it used up the rest of my day and I was running late so I put off signing up for the Tibet trip. Entry: I met Chrissie and her friend Julian (who'd just got back from 24 days trekking in the Everest region) for dinner. We went to a great little restaurant just down the road, Tashi Doleg (sp?), it was cheap also. After diner Julian was craving ice cream so we went for desert, then up to Tom & Jerry's for a beer. After the drink we went for tea back at Just Juice, where Nir (also from the rafting trip) joined us. I left after hanging out for a bit and headed to bed.

May
10
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Weather: Rain Entry: In the morning I sleep in, collected my laundry, and then met Nir and Chrissie for a late breakfast at Just Juice. At the restaurant I discovered something dangerous - the Banana-Chocolate-Coffee shake is to die for. The first one was so good I had a second - I'm going to have to ration myself. After breakfast I spent over an hour on the internet getting my journal up to date, reading / sending email, and launching the new version of my program Pike. Entry: It was still raining so it was hard to motivate to do anything. In the afternoon I found a portrait studio where I could get some passport photos made reasonably. I had lunch at Tashi Doleg (same place as diner last night), but this time I had the amazing vegetable momos. I spent a couple hours going on failed quest to every outfitter in Thamel for a clip for my sandals which broke on the rafting trip. In the evening I hit an internet cafe again then went to my room to get my book, but fell asleep. Nir woke me at eight and I went to see a video with him - Chocolaté (I really liked it - while traveling I'm such a sucker for happy endings). The theater here at guesthouse is really nice - a big home theater set up with surround sound, couches, and even popcorn! After the movie I went with with Nir to Tom & Jerry's and met Chrissie and her friends. I left them when they wanted to a club, and I went back to the guesthouse for another beer and some reading.

May
11
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Entry: The power failed around nine and without the white noise it was too loud to sleep any more. I went to Just Juice for breakfast, but no power meant no shakes or coffee so I moved on to the Pezel Bakery for a couple salad rolls. As I was finishing breakfast I ran into Chrissie and Nir and made arrangements to go with them to lunch. I went by the tour office and signed up and paid for an eight day Tibet tour - leaving on the nineteenth. Chrissie, Nir, and I had a great lunch of momos (both veggie and buff) at a little Nepali whole-in-the-wall restaurant. Not only was it good, but it was cheap - all three of us ate lunch for less than $1. I picked up the passport photos I had shot yesterday. I wandered in to a travel agent to look into the flight to Bangkok and then decided to go ahead and book it. I'm better at making decisions once I have an over all plan - so I leave Katmandu on the 29th of May. The power was still out, so I went on a search for an internet place with a generator and then spent a couple hours on the net. Entry: I didn't have anything planned for the afternoon and the weather had improved, so I decided to go for a walk. I headed for Durbar Square, but the goal was to find my way on all new roads and I was hoping to get lost. I managed to get lost for a little while, but eventually found the square - though somehow I managed to come to it from nearly 180 degrees off where I'd expect to come from. After wandering around I got discouraged by the high number of tourists - not sure if there are more of us all of a sudden, or that the numbers have just started to bother me. Walked back (again by a mostly new route, though this time I paid attention to direction so I was never at a risk of getting lost). Entry: Back at the guesthouse I settled down in the courtyard to read and have a beer. After pizza I was going to go see a video, but my stomach started to hurt (right as my food was delivered) and I decided I didn't want to be stuck somewhere for two hours. Ended up staying up very late with minor tummy problems, but at least I managed to finish my book.

May
12
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Entry: I was up until after four - partially because I was making hourly trips to the toilet, and partially because I wanted to finish my book - so I slept in. For breakfast I had my usual shake at Just Juice. It was a nice day out so I thought about going to Patan (one of the other royal cities in the Katmandu Valley), but decide against it as I'd already made plans to meet Julian, Chrissie, and Nir at 5:30 to see a movie, so I wouldn't have been able to take any photos in the good evening light. Plus I was still a little worried about my stomach and not sure I wanted to be walking around old alleys without a nearby toilet. It was just as well that I didn't go because in the early afternoon the clouds rolled in. Entry: I'd noticed that a number of the music stores in Thamel will record MiniDiscs for you so I went on a little quest and ended up ordering three - I was pretty excited by the thought of new music. Spent the rest of the afternoon reading, doing email, or on my H/PC. Met the other to go see a video - "Along Came a Spider" - it was terrible, one of the worst movies I've ever seen. After the movie I checked email again, then went to Just Juice for another shake (they're addictive), then I met some of the others for a beer and a game of pool at Tom and Jerry's.

May
13
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Photo: Kids in alley, Patan, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-016 Photo: Third story shrine in the Krishna Mandir, Durbar Square, Patan, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Third story shrine in the Krishna Mandir, Durbar Square, Patan, Nepal
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Entry: I woke up to mostly blue skies and had no plans so I decided to go to Patan. I had a late breakfast / early lunch at a mediocre pizza place then set off. I didn't really want to deal with negotiating a taxi in Thamel so I walked about half way until I was in one of the more Nepali suburbs and then caught a taxi the rest of the way. I found Paton a little disappointing. Their Durbar Square is just more of the same as the Durbar Square in Katmandu, but somehow less real. Probably because tourist (and tourist shops) make up a much higher percentage of the people. You are supposed to pay to get in to the square, but by the time I was approached I'd already seen enough so I left the square and wandered around the "real" town. I wanted to see two specific Buddhist temples on opposite sides of the square - walking around the square through the small alleys and old neighborhoods gave me plenty of opportunity to get lost - which I managed to do several times. It also give me the chance to see real life Patton and as an added bonus I wandered into a couple smaller temples not on the tourist map. Entry: The first temple I wanted to go to was Hiranyavarna Mahivihara (also known as Kwa Bahal and Suvarna Mahavihara), more commonly called The Golden Temple. This 12th century temple was compact and very ornate - even beautiful - and even though there were a lot of foreigners there were enough monks and worshipers there to keep an ambiance of devotion. The entire temple complex is pretty much covered with brightly polished copper and bronze which make it look as if it's constructed of solid gold. The most frustrating thing about the temple is that it's to compact - there is no place that you can get a good overview of the entire facade or shrine, or even the courtyard. But that's also a good thing - because I couldn't get a big view I really couldn't take any good pictures, and consequentially I didn't much try and I was just content to be there. Entry: After wandering and getting lost a number of times I got to the next temple I'd picked out to go to. Mahabouddha Mandir is also know as the Nine thousand Buddhas temple because each of the approximately nine thousand bricks in the main temple has an image of Buddha on it. The entire temple was terracotta and very impressive. The best part was that there were no other tourists there (in fact only two monks were there), the bad part is that there's major restoration going on so I could only see bits of the temple between the massive scaffolding. Entry: After the nine thousand Bhuddas I sneaked back into Durbar Square and sat down at a roof top cafe to have a beer while waiting for sunset. It was pleasant to sit above the square and watch life go on below. As it got later the balance of the crowds shifted from tourists to locals and the atmosphere started to feel more carnival like (much like at Bodhnath Stupa in the evening). I wandered around the square and enjoyed it much more - plus the guards had closed down so I didn't have to avoid the ticket inspectors. Entry: I took a taxi back to Thamel and after a shower was starving. I was supposed to meet Chrissie for Indian food, but I needed something right then so I had a shake at Just Juice - as usual it was so good that I had to have a second. After the second shake I went and found Nir and Chrissie at their guesthouse and then Chrissie and I went to a local place for Indian food. Diner was great (Paneer Tikka and nan!) and afterwards we wandered around Thamel trying to let our stomachs settle. Ended up in my guesthouse's courtyard talking until midnight. I ended up staying up late again doing some sewing and then reading.

May
14
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Overcast Entry: I met Chrissie and Nir for breakfast again - we all seem to go there for breakfast. My big success for the morning was no shakes. After breakfast I went and signed up for a kayaking clinic starting tomorrow - four days of river kayaking, should be a blast. I spent a chunk of the afternoon reading in the courtyard and then went to my room to write email - my goal for the day was to get completely caught up. I went to the hotel's internet cafe to send the email I'd written and had just sat down when the power failed. At this time it had also started raining hard so walking around wasn't sounding that great. Instead I went out for an early dinner / late lunch. After eating I ran into Chrissie and Julian at Just Juice and ended up hanging out with them and another American, Emmy. Emmy and I had a beer in the guesthouse's courtyard and then went to meet up with a big group at a middle eastern restaurant. I wasn't very hungry, so I tried an "interesting" babaganuch (Sp?). Another beer in the courtyard and I ended up staying up latish talking with Emmy - she's just started traveling and is on her way to India. I went back to my room to pack for tomorrow and realized that I had forgotten to pick up my laundry so I had a bit of a quest finding someone who could get it for me. Ended up in bed late.

May
15
Sukute, Bhote Koshi River, Nepal
From Katmandu Found In: Entry: I got up early so that I could check my extra baggage and get a safety deposit box and still make the seven o'clock bus. I had to rush, but I made it so of course the bus was nearly an hour late. I started to worry about what I'd gotten myself into when I realized that I was the only kayaker on the bus - everyone else was rafting. It took the bus two hours to get to Sukute, where the resort camp we're staying at was. At camp we were assigned tents which were very nice - each is overlooks the Bhote Koshi river with two beds and a porch with a hammock. We were served a nice lunch then the rafters went off to go rafting. Entry: I met my instructor - it's going to be one-on-one - and we got my equipment together then jumped in the water. The first session was an hour and a half and very frustrating. I couldn't make the boat go straight and I was constantly flipping and then having to pull out and drag the boat back to shore to empty the water out. Entry: We took a much needed coffee break, then got back in the water for two more hours. This was even more frustrating, but at least I learned to trust my instructor and would wait for him to come to me so I could flip back over without having to flood the boat (there is a skirt that keeps the water out as long as you don't leave the boat). We also took a small break and got to watch the locals dynamite fishing - something I've always heard about but never seen. The oldest man climbed up on a big rock out in the middle of the pool and watched the water, when he saw a fish he lit the explosive (more like a big firecracker than a stick of dynamite) and threw it in... Boom! Then about a dozen kids scrambled about trying to get the fish. I was relived to see that the blast only seemed to get one fish each time. Entry: By the time I got out of the boat I was not in the best spirits. I was thinking it was going to be a very long, frustrating four days - and I think every muscle in my body hurt - especially my legs. Plus I had serious abrasions on both knees and a couple fingers. All in all I could seriously barely walk. As soon as I got out of the water I went to my tent and was relieved to find that I had brought ibuprofen - I took a double dose of the strong stuff. Diner was good, but it was a long night. I was so tired I could barely make myself eat.

May
16
Sukute, Bhote Koshi River, Nepal
Found In: Entry: Slept like a log and woke up so stiff I didn't think it was possible to move. Hobbled around breakfast like an old man, but slowly started to loosen up. In the water spent about an hour working on paddling in and out of eddies, then spent the rest of the morning trying to Eskimo roll. I'm almost positive that I spent the majority of the two plus hours underwater trying unsuccessfully to right my kayak, or waiting for my teacher to come help me roll over. It was very frustrating, as by the end I could almost get over, but then I'd roll right back - at least I was very stubborn about it. By the time lunch came I was shivering cold from so much submersion and I still hadn't managed it. Entry: After lunch we got back in the water and I started trying again. This time there were two other kayakers with another teacher trying to do it as well - which made me feel better as they were both a day ahead of me and couldn't do it. We finally gave up and headed down river with the other two students. In the quiet water between the (small) rapids I'd try to roll again and again. Then I tried again and the next thing I knew I was sitting upright almost as astonished as my teacher. I tried a few more times but was unable to repeat my success. On the next rapid I flipped, tried to roll over still in the rapid, and did it! It was amazing what the success did to my confidence. Suddenly kayaking was fun. Even though I couldn't roll successfully very often, just knowing it was possible made all the difference in the world! And the confidence seemed to help my talent as well - for the rest of the day I could pull of a roll about two thirds of the time (though often it would take me several times to get it right). Entry: About two miles below where we started I was confident enough to go explore a bulldozer that had rolled in to the water from a few hundred feet up - just three weeks ago. Another couple miles and some small rapids (still plenty challenging to me!) and we beached the kayaks. I was feeling pretty good as the other two students were better paddlers than me, but they still hadn't managed to the roll. We waited on the road for a local bus then climbed on top with our boats and rode back to camp - a delightful way to travel as long as you watch out for low branches. Entry: Back at the camp I was even sorer than I had been in the morning. Plus my left thumb has several deep gashes from banging the bolt heads on the bottom of the boat trying to roll. Even though I was exhausted I was happy and even had a beer with dinner - though I crawled right to bed after I finished.

May
17
Sukute, Bhote Koshi River, Nepal
Found In: Entry: First thing in the water was the moment of truth - would I be able to roll again? First time was perfect - after that it would often take me a couple tries, but I'd usually make it back over. After playing around in the rock pool for about an hour we got out of the water and took a bus a couple miles up river. This was my first exposure to real rapids - still quite small only class II, but again plenty big for me. On the way back to camp I flipped many times, but the success was that I only needed help getting back over twice. Entry: After lunch we headed down the river again. Once again I flipped a couple times, but only needed help once - I'm definitely getting the hang of it. About half way down it started to rain hard and the wind really started to blow. I was a little worried about how the wind might effect my stability, and the rain was unpleasant as it was blowing straight up river - right in to my eyes. Luckily the wind didn't seem to effect my balance much and after an hour the rain died off. We pulled out at the same spot as yesterday and again caught a local bus, riding on top, back to the camp. As the evening went on I started to realize that I'd done something really bad to my wrist. My body is aching all over again and it's difficult to move at all, but trying to rotate my right wrist is agony. It might be a strain, but it doesn't feel skeletal so I'll take my ibuprofen and see how it is in the morning.

May
18
Katmandu, Nepal
From Sukute, Bhote Koshi River Found In: Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain / Mostly Sunny Entry: Last day of kayaking. In the morning we went back up river and came down - a quick ride, just over an hour. I only flipped twice, and both times were at the bottom of rapids rather than in the rapids. Even more impressive (to me) was that both times I was able to roll back over without any help! After a coffee break we got back in the water and continued another three miles down river. I only flipped once and again I was able to roll back over on my own. My wrist was still kind of bothering me so I didn't play anymore than I had to (i.e. I didn't flip intentionally, or try to surf). When we puled out we had to wait two hours for a local bus that was willing to pick us up - luckily the weather was nice. Back at camp had lunch and said goodbye to the other kayakers. After lunch I packed, showered, and waited for the rafters to get back. Entry: The rafters got back and we left the camp a little after four. It should have only taken about two hours but we ran in to a massive traffic jam as we dropped into the Katmandu Valley. Finally around eight they dropped us off near Thamel. I stopped at my travel agent to pick up my passport and find out what the deal was with Tibet. I'm going. He needed to show me where to pick up the bus in the morning, but I was concerned about getting a room so I went and checked in then came right back - he wasn't there! I waited about half an hour getting more and more worried, but then he showed up - he had gone to meet me at the guest house. He showed me where I was to meet the bus at five in the morning and told me the guide would have my passport and plane ticket. Entry: I had dinner with Chrissie who was still in town for a few more days then hit the supermarket for Diamox (for the altitude) and sunscreen. Unfortunately all the bookstores were closed so hopefully I won't have much time for reading. Then it was back to my room to pack. By the time I'd finished packing and checked my luggage it was well after one - at best it's going to be less than three hours of sleep.

May
19
Nyalam, Tibet, China
From Katmandu, Nepal via Kodari (Nepal side of border), Nepal; and Zhangmu (Tibetan Immigration Town) Found In: Country: China Stop: Zhangmu (Tibetan Immigration Town), Tibet, China End Location: Nyalam, Tibet, China Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Partial Sun Photo: Changing tire on our truck, Near border, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Random peak, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Random peak, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Village house, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Cow with earrings, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Painted door, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Domestic yak, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Village woman, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Cairn with prayer flags, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: The village, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Yak, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Yak, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Yak, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Mountains?, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Friendly workmen eating, Nyalam, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Entry: It was way to early of a morning - only three hours of sleep. I checked out of the hotel and headed for the meeting place. I got there right on time but there was no one else there. There was a group of people on the other side of the street so I went to ask and found they were going to Tibet. Then the next problem was that I didn't even know the name of the tour company I was going with - apparently my company consolidated their trip with another company! Eventually a helpful guide found my name on a list and at least I knew I was on the right bus. We drove back to the Bhote Koshi valley (where I'd just left the day before) and then on to Kodari at the border. Including the hour off for breakfast it only took us about four hours to get there. Then we were ushered in to a tea house and told to get lunch (it was only ten) while our guide took care of the immigration formalities. Over three hours later he returned and we walked across the bridge into China. Entry: There was a huge line at the Friendship Gate (after the friendship bridge), but the Chinese officials were very quick and we were through in just a few minutes. Then we (my group and dozens of others) were hustled in to the back of large trucks and we started up an incredibly steep and narrow (and rutted and just plain scary) road. About half way up we had a flat tire which was a good thing as it gave me a chance to walk around and restore some feeling to my legs. Finally and hour an a half later (and 1,000+ feet higher) we got to Zhangmu. Then I realized why the border crossing was so quick below - we haven't been through immigration or customs yet! It actually went pretty quickly and in about an hour I was through - but the pouring rain and lack of shelter made it a very long hour. We then waited in our land cruiser for another hour or two while the guide got organized, found the drivers, and got the paperwork stamped. While I was waiting I glanced into a couple shops to see what Chinese stores have in them - apparently mostly beer, and only Pabst Blue Ribbon (a beer I would have been happy to never of heard of again) and Budweiser. My first thought was that maybe a big black-market shipment had come in, but then I realized the cans were all printed in Chinese!?! Of all the things for us to export. There are six of us in the group - three American students (all from the Pacific Northwest) who have just finished a quarter abroad in Nepal, a Malaysian man, and a Swiss woman - with our guide and drivers that's a total of nine in two land rovers - luxury! With the time change (two hours fifteen minutes ahead) it was after five by the time we hit the road. Entry: We drove up into the clouds into a land of waterfalls and cloud veiled ridges and peaks. The road was unpaved and narrow with an incredible drop off, but the condition of the road meant that we moved quite slowly. With the frequent checkpoints and the road conditions it took us nearly three hours to cover the 50 miles to Nyalam - but the scenery was incredible and the ride passed quickly. Entry: In Nyalam it was after eight by the time we settled into our hotel rooms - but it was still bright and sunny so I went for a walk to take some pictures. The people are beautiful and very friendly. There are yaks everywhere - and they all have dangling ear decorations. The houses are picturesque trapezoidal shaped building with lots of windows, brightly painted trim, and crowns of prayer flags. In my half hour walk I had a conversation (with no words) with a young mother and her daughter, got invited to eat diner with a bunch of workmen eating from a common bowl on the street, and got called into a movie theater by the entire crowd. I was in love with Tibet. I met up with the others for diner. I was really starting to feel the effects of the altitude (over twelve thousand feet) and had a bad headache, but still had a great diner (chicken with peanuts). I just got back to the hotel when I realized that I had acute diarrhea (translation - I got a one minute warning before I had to be over a toilet). Plus my headache got worse, I developed a fever, and I couldn't catch my breath. It was a very long night.

May
20
Lhatse, Tibet, China
From Nyalam via Tong-la Pass; and Gyatso-la Pass Found In: Country: China Stop: Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China Stop: Gyatso-la Pass, Tibet, China End Location: Lhatse, Tibet, China Photo: Mountains, Nyalam Pass?, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Mountains, Nyalam Pass?, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Mountains, Nyalam Pass?, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Peaks and fields, Nyalam Pass?, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Mountains, Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Mountains?, Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Mountains?, Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Barren hill and sky, Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Shisha Palma Mountain(?), Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Prayer flags and mountains, Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Prayer flags and mountains, Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Shisha Palma Mountain(?), Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Prayer flags and mountains, Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Shisha Palma Mountain(?), Tong-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Nomad's tents, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Nomad's tents, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Village, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Mount Everest, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Mount Everest, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Mount Everest, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Mount Everest, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Mount Everest, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Village, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Landscape, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Mount Everest, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Mount Everest, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Mount Everest, Friendship Highway kilometer ~5232, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-105 Photo: Prayer flags, Gyatso-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Entry: I don't think I slept at all last night. I made at least ten trips to the toilet, had a severe headache and a mild fever, and felt nauseous. When I got up I took some pain killer and Imodium and the nausea seemed to have gone away. I went to join the group for breakfast and managed to drink half a cup of tea, but as soon as the food came out I had to leave quickly. Back at the hotel I took a anti-nausea pill and a Diamox (for the altitude) - I really was not happy about taking so many pills, but I was barely functional so something needed to be done. The rest of the day was spent in the car on very rough roads - I was completely miserable except for when something absolutely fantastic distracted me. Entry: We drove for almost two hours and then stopped at the top of Tonga-la Pass - 16,744 feet above sea level! There were amazing mountain views of the Himalayas and (I think) Shisha Palma Mountain - one of Tibet's eight thousand meter peaks (26,000+ feet). There was also the usual, but still fascinating, cairns and prayer flags, plus a lot of sheep horns and skulls?! From the pass the landscape started to look more and more like the surface of the moon - completely desolate but with the occasional glimpse of some snow covered peak and the bluest sky imaginable. Entry: We stopped at the little nondescript town of Tingley for lunch, but I only manages about half a cup of rice soup (rice and water). After lunch we had a long hellish (very rough) drive. I spent most of my time in the car with my eyes shut only opening them when someone commented on something or we hit an especially nasty bump. It's too bad as I really loved the scenery. Four hours of driving got us to Gyatso-la pass - with an altitude of 17,258 feet it's the highest spot between Katmandu and Lhasa. By this time it had clouded over and actually began to snow lightly so the mountain views weren't there to distract me and I felt terrible. I took a few minutes to take a couple photos and check the GPS (this was definitely the highest I've ever been - at least outside an airplane). Entry: From the pass another hour got us to Lhatse, our stopping place for the night. I still felt terrible, so didn't even consider looking around. I laid down for an hour then felt much better - just an altitude headache. I even managed to eat a plate of vegetable momos for diner. Then it was to bed just after nine o'clock - it was still totally daylight outside, but that didn't stop me!

May
21
Shigatse (Tsang), Tibet, China
From Lhatse via Tso-la Pass Found In: Country: China End Location: Shigatse (Tsang), Tibet, China Photo: Valley and mountains, Friendship Highway Kilometer 5018, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Prayer flags, Tso-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Me in front of prayer flags, Tso-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Prayer flags, Tso-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Landscape, Tso-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Ruins of Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Ruins of Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Prayer flags, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Prayer flags, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Prayer flags, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Looking down on the old town, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Looking down on the old town, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Looking down on the old town, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Prayer flags, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Prayer flags, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Prayer flags, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Prayer flags, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Ruined walls, Shigatse Dzong, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Village house, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Village house, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Village house, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Stupas, Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Alley and gold roof, Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Red walls, Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Gold chapel roof, Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Tashilhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-103 Photo: Sweets stall, Market, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Me playing pool, Market, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: The gang after playing pool, Market, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Ruins of Shigatse Dzong, Market square, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Ruins of Shigatse Dzong, Market square, Shigatse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Entry: Woke up after nearly ten hours of sleep feeling fantastic. Had a huge breakfast - but now everyone else is starting to feel a little off. Drove out through some cultivated land and then through some of the most desolate land I have ever seen. Stopped for a few minutes at Tso-la Pass, at 14,822 feet, the highest pass for today. Just yesterday morning that would have been higher than I had ever been, but after Tong-la Pass it just didn't seem that impressive. We got to Shigatse, the traditional capitol of Tsang, around noon. Entry: After marveling at the incredible hotel we've been checked in to (it's actually very rundown, but they have hot water and flushing toilets!) I set out to explore. Corinne (the Swiss woman on my tour) asked if she could join me and we set off for the market. We walked through a couple blocks of the Chinese built new town (ugly nondescript block buildings) to the old town and found a great little market. There was a bit of everything but it mostly seemed to be focused on tourist souvenirs - odd since there really didn't seem to be any other tourists around. The prices were outrageous - usually ten or more times what the same item would cost in Katmandu. They would of course bargain, but I just couldn't be bothered. When we got to the meat section of the market we decided to continue exploring elsewhere. We tried to find the path up to the ruins of the Shigatse Dzong - the Shigatse Palace, which was destroyed in the Cultural Revolution. We could see the trail up the mountain side, but all the roads in that direction dead ended. We walked further in to the old town walking around the hill which the ruins sat. The street got smaller and smaller and eventually ended. At that point we were on the other side of the ruins and the hill didn't look so steep so we decided to try to climb to it. The rock was very rough so the walk was actually pretty easy. Near the top of the climb we intersected a path and the rest of the hike was simple. Entry: There really wasn't very much to see ruin wise at Shigatse Dzong - just a few walls. The highlight for me was the amazing number of prayer flags and the views down in to the village were pretty nice as well. From above we could see that there was a large market square quite near the hotel that we had missed, so I tried to memorize where it was. We were supposed to meet the others at 3:30 to go see the monastery and I wanted to take a shower first (hot water!) so a little before three we followed the path down. The path took us into an amazing maze of small foot paths then alleys between some absolutely beautiful old houses. Eventually we managed to find our way back to one of the main streets, and from there back to the hotel where I had an amazing hot shower. Entry: We drove to the Tashilhunpo Monastery - one of the largest in Tibet. I found the flashy golden roofs a little much, but from the front the huge monastery definitely had a powerful and even aesthetic presence. We spent a couple hours wandering around the monastery complex - a collection of old chapels going back to the fifteenth century combined with newer building built when the monastery was being restored in the 1980s and 90s. Tahilhunpo contains the tombs of Genden Drup (who was retroactively named the first Dali Lama) and most of the Panchen Lamas (a rank equal to the Dali Lama). Visitors are not allowed to visit the chapel containing the Dali Lama, but we did visit the tombs of the fourth, fifth through ninth (in one chapel), and tenth Panchen Lama. The large Chapel of Maitreya is completely hollow and holds an 85 foot (26 meter) tall gold plated image of Maitreya, the future Buddha. The last Panchen Lama was the tenth, there is a successor - actually two. Both the Chinese government and the Dali Lama in exile have chosen a successor! The Chinese successor is the one pictured all over the place, but he is kept in Beijing to be educated. Entry: The entire monastery complex is huge and could take days to explore - we had two hours, which was actually enough because by then I was really starting to feel the altitude and all the hiking I'd already done. Back in the hotel I relaxed and went through some of the digital photos I took for about half an hour. I then joined the girls to go explore the market square. I don't think the others were all that impressed but I loved it - besides the ugly nylon clothing and plastic ware stalls there were tons of hardware, house ware, sweets, and dried fruit stalls. I bought some sweets - interesting making a choice when you have no idea what anything is, I just bought a selection of everything (some were great, some were hideous, and most were ok). In the middle of the square there were fifteen to twenty pool tables set up out in the open - an open air pool hall. We decided to have a cultural experience and hired one of the for a game. The table had lots of obstacles so our game took a while (also might have been partially due to lack of talent), but it was fun. Predictably, by the end of the game we had a huge crowd of locals watching (and laughing at) us. The others headed over to the souvenir market while I stayed to explore some more. Entry: After I'd gone over the entire market I head out to find the others. On the way I went by a man selling religious paraphernalia on the sidewalk and ended up buying a set of prayer flags (more expensive than in Thamel, but also nicer), and a traditional cloth door (no idea what I'll do with it, but I like it). I found the others as they were finishing up and started to walk back to the hotel with them. I ended up swinging through the market square again on my own to take some photos. Back at the hotel I dropped off my gear and went with the others for diner. We picked a random restaurant around the corner and had a great time trying to decipher the menu which was supposed to be in English. Diner ended up being very good even if it wasn't quite what we had ordered, and we even had a few beers with it (Lhasa Beer - nothing exciting, but still quite drinkable and with the slogan "Beer from the roof of the world"). Back at the hotel I worked on my journal and sorted photos before hitting the bed.

May
22
Gyangtse, Tibet, China
From Shigatse (Tsang) Found In: Country: China End Location: Gyangtse, Tibet, China Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Solar tea kettle, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Village houses, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: The monastery, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-017 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: "Jewel vomiting mongoose", Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: "Jewel vomiting mongoose", Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Guardian painting, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Bhutan (?) Monastery, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Buddha eyes from the side of the Kumbum, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Buddha eyes from the side of the Kumbum, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Bhutan (?) Monastery, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Pilgrims resting, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Village house, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Bhutan (?) Monastery, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Wall paintings, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Present Buddha statue, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: God of compassion, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse Kumbum, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Monastery roofs, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Bhutan (?) Monastery, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Prayer flags, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Pilgrims, Pelkhor Chöde Monastery, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Village houses, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Gyangtse Dzong, Gyangtse, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Entry: In the morning I took another shower and even shaved. The drive today was pretty boring, but it only took a little over two hours to get to Gyangtse. We checked in to our hotel - the nicest yet! I joined the others for lunch - it was a great lunch, but we had to wait nearly two hours for our food! After lunch I set out to explore. I walked to and around the old part of town. The city is dominated by some fabulous castle-like ruins of an old fort (the Gyangtse Dzong) - it's visible up on it's hill from any direction. There are also lots of the funky Tibetan houses that I love. I walked towards the monastery looking at shops and street stalls, and then explored the fruit and vegetable market (there was also a meat section, but it was pretty nasty so I turned around). The vegetables and fruit actually looked amazingly good - I can't imagine how they grow them here. Entry: At three I met up with the entire group to go to the giant monastery complex. It was not nearly as impressive looking as yesterday's, but there are only a few surviving buildings and in their isolation they were a lot more impressive - the Tashilhunpo Monastery (yesterday's) was a solid mass of ornate building that were impossible to see individually. The Pelkhor Chöde Monastery had some amazing images and mandalas painted on the walls. More impressive to me were the several rooms full of 500 to a thousand year old books. Entry: The highlight of the day was definitely the Gyangtse Kumbum, also in the monastery complex. It's a large gold roofed stupa with six levels, 108 rooms, and 10,000 images! I spent several hours exploring - the hike to the top was very difficult, but well worth the fantastic views. Since we could walk back to the hotel I didn't need to stick with the group so I took a lot more time to explore the Kumbum. On the way down I stopped at each level and tried to at least look into every room but 13 were closed so I only got to see 93 of the 108. Every room was covered in intricate wall paintings and had at least one giant statue - I can't even imagine how much work was put into the construction. Entry: Afterwards I went back to the Pelkhor Chöde Monastery since I'd noticed that they had opened the roof. I really enjoyed being able to wander without worrying about where the group was! On the ground floor I went into a very scary protector chapel with heads (masks) hanging all over the roof - they looked like slaughtered animal and I found it very disturbing as it was completely unexpected. On the top floor there were a couple lavishly painted chapels and the roof was nice in a voyeuristic way to sit and watch the monastery go about it's business. Entry: When the monastery complex closed at six I set off with Tai (the Malaysian guy on our trip) to see if we could hike up to the Dzong. On the way I ended up doing some shopping and bought a knife, a chunk of turquoise (starting price 90 Yuan - I ended up paying 5!), and a couple cow bells (I love noise makers). We got most of the way up to the Dzong before getting stopped by a guard. Given the late hour we decided we didn't want to pay the admission charge and headed back down. Back in the room I went through the day's digital photos (it took hours the other night so I had swore to myself to deal with them daily). I went to diner with the girls - it was fantastic (sweet and sour chicken, chili chicken, apples in caramelized sugar) - I hadn't planned on eating much but ended up gorging myself. I was back in the room just after ten and I went pretty much straight to bed.

May
23
Lhasa, Tibet, China
From Gyangtse via Simi-la Pass; Near Karo-la Pass; and Kamba-la Pass Found In: Country: China Stop: Simi-la Pass, Tibet, China Stop: Near Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China Stop: Kamba-la Pass, Tibet, China End Location: Lhasa, Tibet, China Photo: Cart train, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Cart train, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Cart train, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Cart train, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Cart train, Friendship Highway, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Prayer flags, Simi-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Nat-chu (?) lake (Dammed), Simi-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Ruins in lake, Simi-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Nat-chu (?) lake (dammed), Simi-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Prayer flags, Simi-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Glacier on Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson, Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Glacier on Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson, Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Glacier on Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson, Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Glacier on Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson, Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Glacier on Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson, Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Random mountain, Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson and lake, Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson and lake, Karo-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Lake Yamdrok-tso and Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson, Kamba-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Lake Yamdrok-tso and Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson, Kamba-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Lake Yamdrok-tso and Mt. Nya Jing Kong Tson, Kamba-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Mountains, Kamba-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Mountains, Kamba-la Pass, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-102 Photo: Barkhor Square, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Barkhor Square, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Entry: I'd thought about getting up early to go take pictures of the Dzong in the morning light but I didn't wake up until it was time for breakfast and then time to go. The weird thing was that even though I got nearly ten hours of sleep I was still tired when I woke up. Today's drive wasn't two exciting we had three passes (the highest was 16,357 feet), a couple lakes (one created by the damming of the Nat-chu river, and Yamdrok-tso - a sacred lake). We stopped at Nangartse, a nondescript town, for lunch and were told not to leave the restaurant. Apparently today was the fiftieth anniversary of China taking Nepal and the police are being very strict. Entry: About 70 kilometers from Lhasa we hit paved road. As soon as I realized that it was paved for good and not just a short stretch, I started to feel a little sad. Sad because it meant that the rest of my Tibet experience was going to be easy and that somehow killed some of the Tibetan magic for me. And sad because the journey was almost over. We still have three more nights in Lhasa, but it will be in the same place - no more traveling. As we got closer and closer to Lhasa my enthusiasm got less and less - the buildings were becoming more and more concentrated and they're all the ugly Maoist block architecture. Traffic increased, the air got hazy and the mountains vanished. As we entered Lhasa the traffic was horrendous - it looked like an ugly, overpopulated, polluted city - yuck. Even the first view of the Potala Palace didn't do much to improve my opinion - it's big, but it somehow looks fake and plastic-like from the modern mess. As we drove in to the older part of the city things started to look up - the cool architecture was back, the glimpses of the Potala Palace looked like magic, and the traffic was still terrible, but at least it was people on foot or donkey carts. Entry: Our hotel is fairly nice - not as nice as the last two nights, but I'm glad that it's in the old part of the city. After checking in I relaxed (I was still so tired) and did my journal entry from yesterday). After an hour or so I set out to explore. Barkhor Square isn't that far away so that was where I started the explorations. The square was teeming and the temple at the end was definitely the focal point. The temple had a entrance fee and I wasn't feeling up to it so I didn't go very far inside. There are hundreds (thousands?) of stalls stretching out on radial streets from the square so I started to explore. I ended up buying another knife, and a huge chunk of turquoise before getting bored. I had dinner with Corrine at a tourist place, but the food was good. After dinner we found an internet cafe and I spent an hour reading email and just browsing - all bonus as I hadn't expected to find internet access until I got back to Katmandu.

May
24
Lhasa, Tibet, China
Found In: Country: China End Location: Lhasa, Tibet, China Weather: Rain / Partial Sun / Mostly Sunny Photo: Entry approach, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Buddhist power symbol in paving stone, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Courtyard, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Courtyard, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Golden roofs, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Golden roofs, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Golden roofs, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Mountains and roof, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Random wall on upper level, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Main entry, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Main entry, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Main entry, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Palace side, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Palace side, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Palace side, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Palace side, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Palace side, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Palace side, Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: The old gate to the Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Potala Palace, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Potala Palace, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Debating monks, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Debating monks, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Debating monks, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Monastery buildings, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Monastery buildings, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Monastery buildings, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Monastery buildings, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Tankas wall, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-101 Photo: Tankas wall, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Tankas wall, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Painted rocks, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Painted rocks, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-255 Photo: Painted rock and mountains, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Painted rocks and Potala Palace, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Monastery roofs, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Monastery buildings, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Potala Palace, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Potala Palace, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Painted rocks, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Monastery roof, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Monastery roof, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Corridor, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Windows, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Monastery building, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Monastery building, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Monastery building, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Monastery building, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Wheel of life, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Wheel of life, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Tankas wall, Sera Thekchenling Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Entry: Woke up a little earlier than I had to. It was raining hard, so I didn't feel like exploring so I worked on email for a bit. Breakfast was a great improvement - we could order anything we wanted instead of the usual bread, jam, and fried egg. Even so I just had a couple bowls of curd - it sounded (and was) good. We piled into our new car - a very beat up old van, I guess the luxury days are over. We drove to the Potala Palace but the van is so ugly that they wouldn't even let the driver in so we had to walk up the hill. Hard work at altitude, but I think much more satisfying. Inside the Palace is a little dark, gloomy, and overly cluttered with statues. It is however still magnificent. The workmanship and overall unity is incredible - maybe even sublime. Entry: The highlights of the tour were the fifth Dali Lamas tomb, and the roof top. The fifth Dali Lama was responsible for having the palace built back in the fifteenth century (actually he died before it was finished, but his regent hid the fact that he was dead for seven years so the palace could be completed without having to deal with the politics of a succession). His tomb was nearly forty feet high and incorporated nearly 8,000 pounds of gold and more than 10,000 pearls and gem stones! From the roof you could see the various gables, decorated towers, and golden peaked roofs. All that plus the view out to the snow covered mountains, and the sun had decided to come out! Entry: After three hours we left the palace. We departed through the main gate and down the front path - it's here that you really start to get a sense of how grand the building is. It's immense and seems to be a jumble of different styles - some gold peaked roofs, one curved wall, various rectangular sections just stuck in - but somehow it works nearly perfectly. The only building I can think to compare it with is Ayia Sofia in Istanbul - and that might just be the color scheme. The total effect is of perfection in such a casual way that it might have been attained accidentally. The building is also giant - thirteen stories and over 1.3 million square feet - until the advent of the 20th century sky scraper it was one of the highest building in the world. From the square in front of the palace mount you really get the picture - the steep hill that is capped with its red and white architectural crown - awesome. Entry: I was expecting to be disappointed by the Potala Palace after my first sight of it yesterday, so it enchanting presence was a very pleasant surprise. There were some bad parts though. Like I already said it's dark, gloomy, and cluttered. Even worse the omission of any mention of the fourteenth Dali Lama, the guides can't mention him, and the missing pictures are painfully obvious (the XIV Dali Lama lives in exile in India and the Chinese government refuses to acknowledge his existence). Still a very busy and pleasant morning. We had an hour and a half off for lunch so I went to my room and worked on email and my journal (since I found internet access last night). After an hour I went out for an ice cream, but it was so bad that I decided to go back to the Snow Land restaurant for a brownie. The brownie was good, but not very brownie like, more like a flat piece of cake. Entry: In the afternoon I went with Nima (our guide) to the Sera Thekchenling Monastery. Half of our group decided to skip the monastery so there was just three of us. This was my favorite monastery so far. It has beautiful buildings that are reasonably spread out, a giant white tanka wall (to hang the cloth tankas during festivals), lots of trees, and an incredible view of the Potala Palace and the mountains in the distance. The chapels in the monastery weren't all that exciting - basically just more of the same. We went through a lightly wooded courtyard where the monks were doing their evening debates - this was interesting. The monks were mostly paired up with one monk sitting down and the other monk standing up. The monk standing up would stomp on the ground, clap his hands and lunge at the sitting monk while shouting a question at him. Anytime the standing monk didn't like the answer he would stomp and clap and draw the attention of the surrounding monks. It was all a very noisy and active display - all good fun too. Entry: After wandering around for an hour and a half we returned to the hotel. I was feeling pretty burned out so I settled down to finish up my journal entries. After an hour I headed out to go to the internet cafe, but it was full. I wandered back down to Barkhor square again. Without any set idea of where to go I just drifted with the crown and ended up on the pilgrim circuit around the Jokhang Temple. It was crowded and interesting. I checked out some of the stalls (tourist items, religious paraphernalia, and everyday Tibetan goods), just soaked up the atmosphere, and tried to memorize the amazing sights as I hadn't brought a camera - at one point there was the Potala Palace framed by the narrow pilgrim's path and the pilgrims, all lit up by the sunset. After finishing the circuit I wandered back to the email place and got on the net for an hour. Afterwards I had dinner then returned to my room to try and fight off sleep long enough to get my journal and photos sorted.

May
25
Lhasa, Tibet, China
Found In: Country: China End Location: Lhasa, Tibet, China Weather: Overcast / Partial Sun / Rain Photo: Old monk, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Old monk, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Old monk, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Monastery building, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 090-310 Photo: Palace of Dali Lamas II - V, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Palace of Dali Lamas II - V, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Palace of Dali Lamas II - V, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Monastery buildings, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Monastery buildings, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Monastery buildings, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Monastery buildings, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Monks, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Monastery buildings, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Wood pile, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-018 Photo: Wood pile, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Stupa, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Door, Drepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Jokhang Temple, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Monks playing music, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Jokhang Temple, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Jokhang Temple, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Temple roof, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Dancers, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Dancers, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Temple buildings, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Temple buildings, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Potala Palace from roof, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Potala Palace from roof, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Potala Palace from roof, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Dancers, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Canon EOS IX-Lite, Film ID: 222-100 Photo: Potala Palace from roof, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Wheel of life and Barkhor square, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Roof decorations, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Roof decorations, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Entry: We spent the morning at Drepung Monastery - it was beautiful, but I'm just about all mosasteried out. The insides of all of them are starting to look identical, and it seems that we here the same stories again and again. Drepung is the largest monastery in Tibet. Before the Chinese came it had 10,000 monks in residence, today it has 740. The most interesting part was the kitchen - it was a huge atmospheric chamber looking like a cross between a medieval dungeon and Frankenstein's laboratory. While we were there the monks came to pick up one of their daily rations of hot water (they get three) - it was incredible to watch several hundred monks gather with their two liter vacuum flasks - and even more impressive to watch the kitchen monk expertly fill them with a giant copper ladle from the vat of boiling water. Entry: We spent over three hours at the monastery then drove back to Lhasa proper. We had an hour off before our afternoon tour - I decided to skip lunch and spent the hour relaxing in my room. At three I went to meet the group at the Jokhang Temple on Barkhor square. Again - it was pretty, beautiful, all the standard adjectives, but mostly just more of the same. The Jokhang was built it the fourth century and lots of it is still original - that is impressive! There's also a statue of the Buddha that was supposedly blessed by Buddha himself before he ascended to Nirvana. All very interesting, but there's been a bit too much tour stuff over the last week and I was really itching by end of the two hours. Entry: After the tour Nima (the guide) made arrangements to meet us at the hotel at six and the rest of us explored the roof of the temp. The view out over Barkhor Square, the old town, and to the Potala Palace was amazing. As the perfect cap to the atmosphere there was some kind of festival involving about fifty male and female dancers on one of the near by roofs. There was no music, only their singing and thumping sticks. Just perfect... Entry: At six we all met up again at the hotel to pick up our plane tickets, arrange airport transport (at six am!), and say goodbye. After getting all the business done I left the group and went to use the internet, but I couldn't due to a power failure caused by street construction (so not likely to be fixed soon). Instead I went for diner and read. After I finished diner I went for a walk in the evening light (it doesn't get dark until well after eight). I found another internet cafe up the road from the hotel and got on the net for an hour. While on the net I realized that I had somehow lost all the digital photos I had taken before getting to Lhasa - I still had the thumbnails, but the large images were gone - and I have no way of restoring more than the two or three I specially saved - about 60 images from Tibet are gone! I walked back to hotel in the pouring rain - it wasn't cold out but the rain itself felt to be near freezing - it was very cold. Back in the room I packed, showered, and just generally prepared for tomorrows 5:15 wake up call.

May
26
Katmandu, Nepal
From Lhasa, Tibet, China via Lhasa International Airport, Tibet, China Found In: Country: China Stop: Lhasa International Airport, Tibet, China Route: Land Cruiser: Lhasa - Airport; China Southwest Airlines flight 407: Tibet - Katmandu Photo: Plane wing and Mt. Everest, Flight: Lhasa - Katmandu, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Mt. Everest, Flight: Lhasa - Katmandu, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Mt. Everest, Flight: Lhasa - Katmandu, Tibet, China
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Entry: We got our wake up call fifteen minutes late at 5:30 - good thing as I had forgotten to set my alarm! After a light breakfast - I only had curd - we got in the Land Rover that ha been sent for us and set off to the airport. The ride to the airport took a little over an hour and was pretty unexciting except for a nice sunrise. The airport was a total mad house, there was three queues for one door and everyone was pushing and shoving and yelling - unfortunately it seemed like an ugly American convention - lots of silvers yelling because they were on a group visa so had to be allowed in first (8011f us were on a group visa). I was one of the last people to get to the check in desk despite being one of the first in line. I smiled and asked for a window seat on the right side of the plane (the Everest side) - and got one - even though I lad heard others demanding such a seat and being refused. I don't know if it was being polite, or just luck. The flight was aver an hour late taking off, but there were lots of interesting military planes landing and being unloaded / loaded (giant cargo jets - I didn't take pictures). The flight itself was short, under an hour, the highlight was right before we started our decent into Katmandu - we turned around Mt Everest! The heavy cloud cover meant we only saw the peaks, and I'm not even sure which one was Everest - when asked the flight attendant could only answer "It's the tallest one". In Katmandu there was a man from the tour company waiting to pick Tai and I up - so no taxi hassles even. Entry: I checked in to the Kathmandu Guest House without any problems, even though they'd lost my reservation. There is going to be a nationwide general strike for the next three days so I don't know what will be open tomorrow - not good since I'd been planning on doing all my shopping in the next two days. At the guesthouse I ran into Chrissie - I thought both her and Nir were long gone. We arranged to meet later and I went into maintenance mode: turned in laundry, went to the bookstore, and checked the internet. I met Chrissie for a late lunch at Ying Yang - a popular travelers place. After eating she headed for the airport and I went back to the guesthouse to read. Spent the evening on the internet, hanging out in the courtyard, and had pizza for dinner.

May
27
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Entry: My clock is still on China time so I was up early. I've been meaning to try the giant buffet breakfast at the guest house and decided since I was up early and most everything else would be closed due to the strike I should try it. I was disappointing. The Indian food was plain, the English food was over cooked, and the omelets were greasy - the highlight was the corn flakes. I went out for a couple hour walk down to and around Durbar Square. It was very surreal - everything was closed and there were no vehicles on the street. There was also a strange electricity in the air - sort of half holiday celebrations and half fear. There are a few stores open, but even they have their doors half way shut and some one standing guard at the nearest corners. That way if the protest mob comes near they can quickly close and pretend they were never open. Talking to people it sounds like most people are not in favor of the opposition party called strike, but are in fear of having their stores destroyed or worse. Even the street vendors are gone. Entry: I found a book store and bought two books I'd been meaning to read for awhile (Heinrich Harrer's Seven Years in Tibet and Paulo Coelho's The Alchemist), but I couldn't find any handicraft type stores open. Too bad I saved all my shopping for the end of my trip - the strike is going to last three days and I leave on the last day! With nothing else to do I did internet for a couple hours, and then read for a few more. Around dusk I went for another walk to see how things were. I walked for an hour and noticed a few more shops open, but they're all local orientated. I'm hoping things will lighten up a bit tomorrow, but it seems doubtful. I had dinner then worked on my computer, and then interneted again until late.

May
28
Katmandu, Nepal
Found In: Photo: Thamel street with everything closed due to the strike, Katmandu, Nepal
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Entry: Slept in and then went for my same walk down and around Durbar Square - if anything things are even quieter than yesterday - even though there are more people on the street. Things feel more tense and there were times where I felt a little uncomfortable - it wasn't a very long walk. I had my final taste of Tibetan food at Tashi Deleg - veggie momos! Like many of the businesses in Thamel they had their door half open and anytime the protest gangs got near someone would come running down the street and they'd close the door locking us in until it was clear again. Weird. Spent most of the afternoon in my room, the courtyard, or the garden reading or working on a program. In the evening I went for another walk - it was very short, it seemed like everyone on the street was a drug dealer and they were all desperate and unwilling to take no as an answer. It took less than half an hour for me to loose my temper and then I quickly retreated to the guest house. Had a well needed beer in the courtyard then went over to the New Orleans for diner and another couple beers. After New Orleans closed I went over to the Tongues & Tales bar with someone I'd met yesterday. Back in my room considered packing for tomorrows departure, but decided to set my alarm a little early and went to sleep instead.

May
29
Bangkok, Thailand
From Katmandu, Nepal Found In: Route: Thai Airlines flight 320: Katmandu - Bangkok Entry: I woke up earlier than I needed to, but couldn't fall back asleep - maybe I was nervous about sleep too late? I gave up on trying to sleep and did the packing that I'd put off the night before, then showered and shaved (probably my last hot water shower for a while - also probably the last time I'll want a hot water shower for a while). The general strike was still on so there were no taxis. There was a government guarded bus that made the run to the airport but I had to get to New Road to catch that - a good forty minute walk without my gear. There were a few cycle rickshaw drivers risking ignoring the strike, so I negotiates an outrageous fee (still well under a dollar) for one of them and off we went. We were on our way down one of the narrow streets when suddenly we could hear a protest march ahead - I wouldn't have imagined how quickly a rickshaw can be turned! Even more amazing was the speed at which the driver took off. We raced back to a parallel street, and then cut back in front of the mob - my driver peddling like mad the entire time. It was a bit scary - especially as he kept glancing nervously back, but everyone seemed to ignore us. We headed off in the right direction, but about half way there he managed to flag over my bus - so he didn't have to go as far, and I saved waiting for half an hour. Half the bus was full of police in riot gear - which I did not find reassuring, bu the ride to the airport was uneventful. At the airport I went through the typical bureaucracy (pay departure tax, change money, check in, customs, immigration, and then rushed through the gate only to sit and wait for over an hour). <>The flight was unexciting (i.e. good) and I landed in Bangkok at six pm (with the one and a quarter hour time change). The airport was busy, so by the time I'd waited in line for immigration and picked up my bag it was seven. At the ATM I couln't find my wallet! I sat there and went through my bag thinking about it - I remembered deciding not to carry it around Katmandu when the strike was on, but I couldn't remember what I did with it. I looked everywhere that seemed likely and finally resigned myself to having left it in my roomin Katmand. I changed some money and was not in a hurry to get in to the city so I could cancel my credit card. I caught a taxi into Bangkok and felt especially pathetic in the language department - here it was my fourth time in Bangkok and I always stay in the same place, yet I still couldn't pronounce the street name. I was able to tell him the nam of the area (or actually a nearby area) and I just hoped I could direct him once I was nearby - Pathetic, but it worked. Luckily the Shanti Lodge (one of my favorite guesthouses) had a room for me. Everyone working there recognized me - it's always nice to go back to places where people know you! I dumped my gear and started a final search for my wallet - looking in detail. I finally found it - I'd stuck it in my lead film bag. Unfortunately when I find it I notice that there isn't enough film in the bag. I had only put the film from Tibet in there - the other 16 rolls had been put in checked baggage (a very bad idea due to the heavy X-Ray machines they use). There was nothing I could do so I decided to get some film developed tomorrow. Meanwhile I relaxed and has a delicious Pad Thai dinner (I love Thai food), did a quick email check, the went to my room. Unfortunatly I wasn't used to the heat so I couldn't get to sleep until nearly three.

May
30
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Entry: I tried to sleep in - but starting before seven there was heavy construction going on next door - less than ten feet from my window. My gal for the day was to find out about getting to Micronesia. I checked the nearby travel agent that has been recommended before - it looks like it might be big money to get to Micronesia! I had a breakfast of fruit on the street, and turned in six rolls of film to be developed while walking down to Khao San road. There are tons of travel agents down there. First off I went to the travel agent that worked a miracle for me back in January when I was on my way to India - she found my a ticket when everyone else said there were no flights available. This time however there was no magic - in fact the answer was worse than the first place - nearly $2,000!! The next two random agents I tried didn't even want to try and help me (none of these people have any idea where Micronesia is - one of them kept on insisting the cheapest way would be to take the train down through Malaysia, and wouldn't listed when I said "Not Indonesia, Micronesia." The third random office at least had a map on the wall so I could point to where I wanted to go - they couldn't help me much, but they gave me the best price I had found to Guam (I have to go to Guam to get to Micronesia) - I felt like I was half way there, but but I still needed to figure out how to get to Pohnpei. I tried all the bookstores in the area for a Micronesia guide, but none of them had anything is stock. On the way back to Thewet I had a lunch of more street food. Back at the guest house I got on the internet and started doing research on flights. The net was painfully slow so it took me a couple ours to come up with the same bad news. Entry: After getting off the net I went to pick up my photos and drop seven more rolls off. The photos were Ok, a little disappointing, but nothing that I can blame on an X-Ray machine. My stomach was having some weird pains so I had an early dinner, thinking that it might be good to get some "safe" food in there. Went back to the internet (a cafe down the street this time - a little faster) for a long session - I released a program (A.C.T.²), got my journal / photos uploaded and updated, and did some more research, but still no luck, the flight from Guam to Pohnpei is the same everywhere. I had some bad stomach pains and didn't have a chance at getting to sleep so I sat down stairs to read. Around two I was still having the pains so I decided I needed to eat something really neutral. I walked to the nearby 7-Eleven and nothing looked good, so I bought everything neutral cracker like that I could find. I manage to eat some of them and pains pretty quickly went away - I'm thinking it was probably just too much acid, I'd eaten pretty much only fruit all day...

May
31
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Entry: Again tried to sleep through the early morning construction next door, and again failed. Since the guest house's internet has been so flaky I stopped at a nearby internet cafe to check email. I got some email from Stacy and she hadn't been able to find a cheaper price for Guam to Micronesia either. I decided to go ahead and buy the tickets to / from Guam and worry about how to get to Micronesia once I get there. Since I haven't been able to find anything less than the full fare either on the internet, or hear in Bangkok it shouldn't matter. I picked up the second batch of photos (seven rolls) and dropped the final eight rolls off to be developed - there were some great photos from the Kumbh Mela! On the way to Khao San Road to buy my ticket I ran into Kelly (she's also staying at Shanti) who was also heading to Khao San. I went to the cheapest of the travel agents from yesterday and of course the same person isn't working there and the price has gone up. After an hour of haggling and looking at different options I finally got a reasonable price leaving in two days - now I just have to come back tomorrow to pick up the ticket. I was going to Siam Square to try and find a guide book covering Guam and Micronesia and since Kelly had just gotten to Bangkok she decided to tag along with me to try the canal boats. Entry: I was feeling pretty proud of myself for finding my way to the canal boat stop (somewhat impressive since it's a bout half hour walk), getting on the right boat (less impressive since there really is only one), and getting off at the right stop in Sukamavit (very impressive since the stop has been completely rebuilt since I was last there). In the bookstore I tried they didn't have what I was looking for (Lonely Planet's South Pacific), but they were able to call around and find me a copy at a nearby store (actually almost just across the street). After buying the book I was trying to get to Siam Square and managed to get completely lost - pretty amazing as it's on the same street. When we realized I'd been walking the wrong way we got on the sky train and were there in a few minutes. Had a fast dinner then went for a wander in the MGK Center (one of the huge surreal modern shopping centers near Siam). Ended up going to see "Sweet November" - a very bad movie. Took the train back as near to the lodge as possible, then as leaving the station it started to pour rain - got a taxi immediately, but even the ten feet from the bottom of the stairs to the taxi door involved getting a soaking so the taxi's arctic A/C seemed even colder than usual.

June, 2001

June
1
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Entry: Went and picked up the final batches of photos. Some pretty good ones, including a few that go all the way back to Ngorongoro last August! It was very hot, so rather than walk (and just to do something different) took the river boat down to Tha Chang (near the Grand Palace) and walked back up to Khao San. After picking up my tickets for tomorrow's flight to Guam (via an eight hour layover in Taipei) I tried to find a flight home. The place I bought my Guam ticket wasn't very helpful (the man I dealt with yesterday wasn't there), and a second place couldn't get anywhere near what I wanted to pay. Finally at the third place I found something that's not to outrageously priced (early July is high season, so this was difficult). Unfortunately it turns out all the reasonable (<$500) flights between when I get back from the South Pacific and when I want to be home (July fourth) are sold out. After a couple frustrating hours I finally leave waitlisted on two flights. The only problem is that I won't know if I got a ticket until I get back to Bangkok - only two days before I'm hoping to fly home! Entry: Eat diner at a random restaurant that was recommended by the woman at the last travel agent - it was very disappointing, I think anything on the street would have been better. After diner did some shopping on Khao San (mostly things that Stacy requested I bring her in Micronesia) then hit an air-conditioned bar for a beer and a snack. It's still way to hot out, so took a taxi back to the lodge. After a cold shower went to bed very early.

June
2
Taipei International Airport
From Bangkok, Thailand Found In: End Location: Taipei International Airport Route: China Airlines, flight 694: Bangkok - Taipei; flight 26: Taipei - Guam Lodging: Taipei International Airport Entry: Again I woke up at seven due to the construction, but amazingly I fell asleep again until 9:30 at which point I was running very late! I did a rush pack, including a big bag to leave in Bangkok until my return. By this time I was drenched in sweat so I took a quick shower, then rushed up to grab my bags. On my way out the door I realize that I had left my ticket in my SE Asia guide book - the one which I had just put in storage! Lucky I'd done a last minute check! After digging out my ticket I jumped in a taxi - I ended up leaving for the airport about 15 minutes after I was supposed to have checked in! Luckily it's Saturday so it was a very fast taxi ride. Entry: After checking in I was walking around the airport and I see on CNN that the king and Queen of Nepal are dead! The headline said Murder - Suicide, but I only caught the end of the report so I really have no idea what the story is. Having just left Nepal in the middle of some trouble it gave me severe goose bumps! After going through immigration and customs I went on mission to buy one of the new 128 meg memory sticks for my camera in duty free. There are about 50 shops, all run by the same company and all carrying the same things, and only one of them wasn't sold out - and it was the only one closed and no one could help. At least I figured that Taiwan would have a huge duty free selection. I ended up being the last one to get on the plane. Entry: We landed in Taipei a little after five. The one bookstore closed at five, the duty free shop is giant, but only sells purses, makeup / perfume, a small selection of liquor, and a huge selection of cigarettes - nothing at all fun. The airline provided me with a very bad diner - even worse than on the plane - couldn't even eat the cake. Diner was served at six, then I was left alone. Everything in the airport is closed and it's freezing cold. It's really frustrating to look out the window and see the thermometer registering 30°C (~86°F) outside while shivering alone in the semi dark (they've turned off most of the lights). I get cold when I sit, but the guards get annoyed when I walk around - there are a few vending machines for cold drinks, but no banks are open to exchange money. Finally around 11:30 they post the gate number so I can at least go sit in the right spot for the last two hours. Also the gate is enclosed in glass which lets some heat soak in. About 1:30 the let us board the plane and almost immediately after take off I fall asleep - I never sleep on planes.

June
3
Hagåtña, Guam
From Taipei International Airport Found In: End Location: Hagåtña, Guam Route: China Airlines, flight 694: Bangkok - Taipei; flight 26: Taipei - Guam Entry: I woke up on decent - I'd slept solidly through the entire three hour flight! After landing I walked through immigration and customs - it's kind of nice to be back in the USA. I was thinking about how nice it was to be back during the taxi ride to my dive hotel - then I realized the fifteen minute ride had cost $20!! Going home is going to be a shock. After checking in to my hotel I went out for a walk - it's ungodly hot and all the travel agents seem to be closed on Sunday. Back in my room I read in the guide book and just generally relax in the air-conditioning. Entry: I decide to head out to a recommended dive shop five miles away. I figure I'll start out walking and catch a taxi when I've walked enough. I quickly found out that I was wrong earlier - it wasn't hot then, now it was hot. After walking about an hour an a half I hadn't even see a taxi and I was over walking in the heat. I found a random dive shop and decided to check it out. They've got dives going tomorrow, and seem professional, so if I don't have to fly Tuesday I'm going to go diving tomorrow. I walked back to the room and relaxed in the air-conditioning again. I was very sleepy, but determined to stay up until night. I called Continental to find out about flights - when I asked what the price was they assumed I was local and I didn't correct them so I booked a flight for Wednesday for more than three hundred dollars cheaper than it was going to cost. Entry: I set out walking again, this time in the other direction. I ended up at a shopping mall and decided to check it out as Guam is known for its shopping - no taxes here. Unfortunately it's very lame. I'm starting to find Guam very depressing. I don't know if it's the slightly ghetto feel, or just the constant reminders that I'm back in the USA, which is a constant reminder that my traveling is almost over. Have a early diner - a giant pizza meal. On the way back to the hotel I stopped in a copy center to use the Internet for a couple hours - it's about ten times more than in Bangkok or Nepal, but more than ten times as fast. Back in my room I tried to work on my journal but was asleep by 6:30.

June
4
Hagåtña, Guam
Found In: End Location: Hagåtña, Guam Photo: Divers ascending through the hole, Blue Hole, Guam
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Entry: I woke up earlier than I had to but but still got 12 hours of sleep! The dive center's car picked me up on time and within ten minutes of arriving at the store we were on our way to the boat. The boat is nothing special, a rather beat up old catamaran, but there's room for twenty or thirty divers and there are only eight. The first dive was at Guam's most famous site, The Blue Hole. The visibility was excellent - well over 140 feet! The dive itself was pretty good, though really it's what I call a drama dive - great scenery, but not much sea life. We started on top of a coral shelf about 60 feet deep looking at the top of the "hole" - a heart shaped vertical tunnel maybe 30 feet across. We dropped down along a wall to 130 feet to an arch leading in to the hole. Once in the hole the water was shimmering with an incredible blue light from the arch at the bottom and the the top - very beautiful, even though there's really nothing to see in the hole itself. From the top of the hole we ascended gradually along the coral shelf. We saw a couple eels and lion fish, but really not very much. I was very disappointed to see the dive master feeding the fish, kicking coral, harassing sealife, and digging into holes with a metal rod - not very eco friendly diving. Entry: Back on the boat we had an hour out of the water - most of which we spent chasing down a small pod of spinner dolphins - it may have been a small pad, but they're the largest spinners I've ever seen. I was relieved to see that the captain stayed quite always away from them. The second dive was on the wreck known as the American Tanker. It's a large well preserved freighter sunk intentionally to be part of a breakwater. The visibility wasn't nearly as good, but it was nice as we got to swim through the wreck and it's very intact. Again it was a pretty good drama dive but not so good for the sea life. I was again really disappointed with one of the dive masters, though at least it wasn't ours - these guy carved his name into the growth on the wreck! The ride back to the island was pretty short, and mostly spent eating the provided box lunch. Back at the shop I spent a couple hours talking with the owner and checking out equipment as I was seriously debating buying my own kit to take with me to Pohnpei. As I got back to my hotel it started to pour rain so I relaxed and worked on my journal. When the rain slacked off I walked down to the internet cafe to update my journal and printed out more dive log pages. I'd decided to go see a movie so I took a taxi to a the Micronesia Mall cinemas - only a $26 fare! After a fast food dinner I caught the late showing of Pearl Harbor (which I liked). On the taxi ride back I realized it would have been about twenty percent cheaper to have rented a car for the day!

June
5
Hagåtña, Guam
Found In: End Location: Hagåtña, Guam Entry: I ended up being up late last night (a late three hour movie, waiting for a taxi, then writing in my journal) so I slept in. I'd planned on renting a car and doing some shopping in the morning (for dive gear and miscellaneous sundries to take to Pohnpei) and then spend the afternoon driving around the island. Unfortunately it took nearly four hours to get a car. The place that I had planned on using didn't answer the phone. The second place didn't have any cars and the third wouldn't be open early enough in the morning for me to drop it off before my flight. The fourth was a little expensive, but I was sick of dealing with it, so I had it all set up and was waiting for them to pick me up in ten minutes. Forty minutes later they called to tell me they would have to charge me $20 to pick me up - so I cancelled. I tried the first place again and this time got an answer - they were way cheaper, picked me up for free, and would drop me off at the airport tomorrow morning. By the time I got the car it was after two! Drove around doing my miscellaneous shopping, then started looking at dive gear. Three hours later I'd spent a lot of money but had my own kit. I left the shop just in time to watch the sunset - there were some low clouds and the light show was fantastic. I continued around the island but turned around after fifteen minutes - it was too dark to see anything. I was still interested in trying to get another memory stick for my digital camera and Guam is famous for its shopping so I tried the giant gallariea complex complex in Toloum. It was pretty interesting to realize how focused the shopping is here - all the signs are in Japanese and many of the stores employees don't even speak English! It was a failure for me though - they don't even bother trying to sell anything that can be bought in Japan reasonably (i.e. electronics and cameras). I'd been told that ninety percent of the islands tourist are from Japan - now I'm starting to believe it! Every time I've talked to someone living here they ask first if I'm military, second if I'm working, and third if I want a job - they just can't conceive of an American tourist. Entry: I spent a couple more hours - went to K-Mart to buy bag to carry all the new dive gear in, had diner, and picked up a few more sundries (coffee / batteries). Back at the hotel I was predictably up late playing with and reading about all my new toys, and then packing. Since I was up late I took advantage of being back in the US and having cheap phone rates (seven cents a minute!) and called home for the first time in three months. By the time I got to bed I only had three hours until I had to get up!

June
6
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
From Hagåtña, Guam via Pohnpei Airport Found In: Route: Continental Airlines flight 956: Guam - Chuuk - Pohnpei Weather: Mostly Sunny / Overcast / Rain Entry: Morning came way to soon after less than three hours of sleep. I dropped the car off at the rental agency and as promised there was a ride waiting to take me to the airport. After checking in I sat in the coffee shop trying to stay awake then headed for the gate. At the gate I found the worst set up I've ever seen on a western airline - there were thirty more people with confirmed tickets than seats. I was starting to get quite worried as I hadn't had a seat assigned and was one of the last people to be allowed on to the plane. The mess caused the plane to be late leaving the gate, then they discovered that an instrument needed to be replaced so that stalled us another half hour. The flight was less than an hour and a half and the approach into Chuuk was amazing - everything you'd imagine the south pacific to be - coral atolls, mountainous island rings, turquoise waters and little wisps of sand with only a coconut palm or two. Idealic. Entry: The plane only stopped for about half an hour and then we were back on schedule. The flight to Pohnpei was less than an hour. The approach to Pohnpei was a little different - very cloudy and the island is a dark, lush, green with dramatic Tahiti like spires of rock and densely forested mountains (well, maybe steep hills) - pretty much perfect, except no beach the shore looks pretty much like solid mangroves (not a surprise - Stacy had repetitively warned me about that). At the airport I breezed through immigration but I had to pay twenty-five percent duty on the bottle of wine I brought in - I could have brought a liter and a half of spirits duty free. Stacy was waiting for me and we went to meet some of her coworkers and other "menwhas" (white people) at a restaurant. We caught a ride back to her school / lab complex (PATS - Pohnpei Agricultural and Technical School) and I dumped my gear in the guest room I'm using at the school. Stacy and I hung out with Corinne, another friend of Stacy's who's visiting, and got a tour of the lab. Before sunset we sat up on Stacy's porch (great view of the water, but unfortunately can't see the sunset) and drank VB(!) and listened to music. After diner we watched ConAir on video with a lot of the volunteers here then I headed for bed when they put another video in.

June
7
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Photo: Stacy modeling local fashion, Kepirohi Waterfall, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Me in the kayak, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Ruin wall, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Ruin wall, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Ruin wall, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Stacy paddling in front of a ruin wall, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Stacy paddling in front of a ruin wall, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Photo: Main gate of Nan Madol, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019

June
8
Ou, Pohnpei, Micronesia
From PATS Found In: Entry: Dive 1: Dehl Rie Rie (sponge farm), 30.7m (100 ft), Vis: 20 feet; Temp: 30°C. PATS. Two small reef sharks, a small eagle ray, a big turtle, and a big sting ray. Down to the bottom of a channel along the sand, then back along the channel wall. Afterwards swam out into the water and checked a sponge farm out.

June
9
Ou, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Weather: Mostly Sunny / Rain / Mostly Sunny Entry: We spent the morning just lounging around - the hotel was very comfortable - hot water, great views, and very comfortable. In the afternoon Stacy, Corinne and I drove in to town. Corinne wanted to buy a carved turtle before leaving Micronesia, so we drove out to Kapingamarangi - a village well known for its wood carvers. She found what she wanted at the first place we stopped and the guy was fairly reasonable so we didn't even go to any of the other stores. I was interested in coming back in a few days because he had some unfinished turtles that he was going to turn into cribbage boards - might be cool. From the carvers we hit the grocery stores to see what they had in stock this week. It was probably a bad sign that almost all we bought was booze (margarita ingredients, wine, and port) we also managed to get ice-cream then we took Corinne to the airport. As we were leaving the airport it started to rain hard so Stacy and I decide to go to a movie. We went back to the hotel to drop of our purchases and the sun comes out so we decide to go hike to some waterfalls instead of the movie. Then we got to the room and decide to have a margarita, next thing we know Mia and Miriquo (from PATS) had shown up and two thirds of a bottle of Tequila (plus triple sec and half a bottle of wine) later we stagger up to the restaurant for diner. Then Stacy and I went back to finish off the bottle of wine and crashed hard.

June
10
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
From Ou Found In: Entry: Since I was feeling a little of the effects from last night I tried to sleep in as long as possible. Stacy and I met Eileen and Simon at noon to go hike Sokhes Ridge (the giant ridge that looms over Kolonia). It was a nice pleasant hike - not to hard (good thing considering everyone's condition). There was lush rain forest paths with the decaying remains of W.W.II Japanese guns and bunkers - pretty interesting stuff to explore. From the top of the ridge the view was fantastic - you can see all of the Northern coast of Pohnpei! It was hot though, so when we got back at Eileen and Simon's house at it was easy to persuade us to join them on their boat. We drove out to the pass through the outer reef and stopped for a snorkel and swim. Back at their place we hung out and had a beer, and then got invited to great spaghetti diner. The night ride back to PATS was very long.

June
11
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Entry: We were supposed to diving to clean the clam farm at Naa this morning. I got up reasonably early, but the dive was canceled due to it being low tide and the good boat driver wasn't available, and the air compressor being broken. We set up to go out at three instead. I spent the morning getting caught up with email and then helping Stacy and Tyler scrub one of the reservoir tanks. I actually did very little and mostly just watched. After lunch I sat on the porch a bit talking with one of the other volunteers about the diving on Chuuk. Down in MERIP I helped figure out what was wrong with the compressor (a large spring was not allowing the filter chamber to properly seal so it was blowing out the o-ring). We ended up deciding not to dive at all today - we'll go clean clams (or maybe weed a sponge farm) tomorrow. In my room worked on the computer a bit then went with Stacy for an evening paddle out to nearby Joy island for a quick swim before racing back for diner. After diner I watched a video (Men in Black) with some of the employees and students and then sat up with Stacy and showed her my photos and had a couple glasses of port.

June
12
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Entry: Spent most of the day out in the water helping to clean a sponge farm. The farm was at Dehl Rie Rie (where I we did my first dive on Pohnpei) - the sponges all hang from a lattice of ropes which also tend to grow algae which smother the sponges if it isn't cleaned off regularly. Two divers went down and let the anchor ropes loose, then the rest of us attached buoys and snorkeled around rubbing the algae off the lines and sponges. We spent two hours in the water then took the boat to a small island for an hour lunch break before going back for another two hours. I was exhausted by the end of the day though the work wasn't hard, and was even fun in an odd satisfying kind of way. Entry: Back at PATS I checked email (though I still haven't sent any), helped clean up in the lab, then went back to my room to try to work on my journal, but on the way I got distracted and ended up watching TV. After diner I played with my dive gear and decided what to take with us to Ant Atoll tomorrow (we're going to be camping for two nights). Then packed and got to bed pretty late.

June
13
Ant Atoll, Pohnpei, Micronesia
From PATS Found In: Photo: Clown fish in anemone, The Channel, Ant Atoll, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-019 Entry: We were planning to be on our way packed for camping and diving before seven. The morning didn't quite go as planned and after getting the kayak, dive gear, food / cooking, and our personal stuff in the truck it was 8:00. After the hour drive we stopped at the Village to dump our gear before going in to town to finish shopping for food. While unloading Stacy discovered that she didn't have her bag - she'd left it back at PATS. We talked about what we could do, but in the end it was just too far, we can't afford two more hours of driving, it would just be to late to leave for Ant. So she decided she could make do. We rushed in to town for a quick shopping trip and by the time we got back and had loaded up the boat we were only running an hour late. On the ride out I was exhausted and just couldn't keep my eyes open so I slept most of the hour and a half ride out to the atoll. Entry: Our first dive was on the inside edge of the only channel leading into the atoll lagoon. Visibility wasn't great, and the dive was pretty unexciting for me - though Stacy saw a reef shark and a Napoleon I missed both. After the dive we went to our camp site to leave our gear and have lunch. The site is called "Piknik Resort", and is really beautiful. It's right on a beach, fishing nets, buoys, and hammocks hang from the trees, huts are scattered around a very clean clearing and there is a small sheltered kitchen area with a gas lamp and stove - luxury! Entry: The second dive was at the channel again, but this time we started outside the atoll reef and worked our way back in. The visibility was a lot better - and seemed even more so since there was little sediment in the water. The deep water on the outside looking towards the open sea had that fantastic blue color. I still didn't see anything that exciting, The highlight was a little white tip reef shark that kept coming around to check us out. There were also some nice coral, anemones, and clams. Back on shore we said goodbye to the boat and they promised to be back in two days to pick us up. Stacy and I set out to walk around the island - it only took about 20 minutes. We spent the evening playing cards and talking with Philip, the island's caretaker. We watched the sunset from the sand, it was a bit too cloudy for it to be really good, but the idealic setting made up for the lack of fire. We made burritos for diner and Philip ate with us - he's been out on Ant Atoll for the last two years - he seemed very lonely. When it started to rain hard we went to our little cabin thing. It rained on and off all night, and there was some maneuvering of the beds to find spots that weren't too wet. I also got woken up a couple times to chase the rats out - first time we moved food into the cooler outside, but it didn't seem to stop them.

June
14
Ant Atoll, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Photo: Circling reef shark, Ant Atoll, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: Circling reef shark, Ant Atoll, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: Giant sting ray, Ant Atoll, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Entry: We didn't get up until after eight - definitely sleeping in given the roosters started in well before dawn. We had a leisurely pancakes breakfast and then got our gear ready to go. Around noon we set off in the kayak. We followed the atoll islands around to the west. Most of the islands are very small, some no more than a hundred yards long - but all have very dense and very green palm and mangrove forests. A couple of the islands had simple houses on them, but we never saw anyone else - apparently they're either deserted, or just used on the weekends. Off one of the uninhabited islands we stopped and hand lunch on a little sand island that the falling tide had exposed - maybe fifteen feet long and five feet wide - very cozy. We lounged around in the water and on the sand and then watched the reef sharks hunting in classic jaws style - the two triangular fins sticking up in to the air. It could have been scary if any of the sharks were more than three feet long! Entry: We continued on and found a large uninhabited (no building at all) island that marked the last bit of land on the atoll in this direction (it looked to be maybe ten miles around the reef rim to the next bit of dry land). It had a beautiful sand spit and beach so we pulled the kayak up and explored. It was great you didn't even need snorkeling equipment - walking on the beach we saw sharks, eels, parrot fish, and tons of rightly colored reef fish. We walked around to the open sea side and watched the surf before realizing that it was getting late and we had a long way to get home - we had to hustle. About half way home we ran into a squall - very hard rain, I had to keep my eyes closed through a lot of it (I hoped Stacy had hers open!) When it started to get really bad we considered taking shelter on an island, but by that point we could see our beach a couple islands ahead and stopping would probably mean finishing in the dark so we continued on. Right as we got back the rain slacked off and it started to get dark. We read for a bit then made chili for diner. The caretaker, Philip joined us again and brought a couple barbecued fish to contribute. It was still raining and everyone was tired so we went to bed quite early. The rats were even more active than last night and couldn't get to sleep. I kept thumping on the floor to scare them away, until I thumped on the floor and actually hit one of them - that got my adrenaline pumping and it took me a very long time fall into an uneasy sleep.

June
15
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
From Ant Atoll Found In: Weather: Overcast / Rain / Overcast Photo: Pigs on neighboring island, Piknik Resort, Ant Atoll, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: The boat drivers in bad rain, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: Looking up at The Village hotel, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Entry: Stacy, Phillip (the island caretaker) and I had pancakes for breakfast gain. Afterwards we packed, then sat in the hammocks waiting for the dive boat to show (life was very difficult on Ant). The dive boat arrived a couple hours later than expected, and Nicole (also working at PATS) was on board, as well as another random guy. Stacy had requested a dive on the outside of the atoll so our first dive was on the west side. It was pretty interesting to watch them maneuver over the shallow reef to get there - I have no idea how they managed as there were coral heads everywhere. When we started to suit up it turned out there was a miscommunication and the random guy has no equipment, the hotel was supposed to have provided it, but no one had told the dive shop. There was some drama, but at that point there was really nothing anyone could do about it so the guy ended up snorkeling. Entry: The dive was excellent - it was along a great wall with tons of hard and soft corals, and clams. It must have started a few feet below the surface and ran vertically to nearly 200 feet. With the great visibility (easily a hundred plus feet) you could see the entire wall from top to bottom! There were also a lot of interesting small narrow canyons that broke it up a bit. There were a lot of sharks - black and white tips - including a couple that were very curious. All in all there was a lot to see and some great scenery and we ended up staying down nearly seventy minutes. Entry: Since other guy can't dive and Nicole is just snorkeling Stacy and I requested to do the second dive in a channel back in the Pohnpei lagoon that we had heard recommended. The ride back to Pohnpei was rough - torrential rain and bumpy seas (at least until we got back into the lagoon). The rain rain was coming down so hard that it stung - our driver actually had to put on a mask just so he could see! At the dive site I got all geared up and jumped in the water. Almost immediately there was a very loud noise and air started to flow out of my first stage (what's attached to the tank - air shouldn't ever come out there). I hoped that it was an O-ring, but it was my new regulator - it had blown up (actually, I think it was a burst disk - but it was still out of commission). I tried to think that it was lucky that it had happened at the surface, but I still wasn't happy about it. I climbed back in to the boat and tried to figure out a way to swap in the spare reg we had brought, but there were no tools at all on the boat (!) and I completely failed. I finally gave up and Stacy and the guide went (I insisted) and I jumped in and snorkeled with the others. The coral looked really nice, but the visibility wasn't that great and I didn't see a lot of fish. The ride back to shore was pretty short and once there we unloaded the gear and hiked up to the village to pay and change clothes (luckily some of my stuff made it back without getting too soaked, and Nicole had brought Stacy her missing bag). I was feeling really frustrated with the afternoon and decided I needed a couple beers while I was waiting for the girls. By the time we were ready to go we'd already missed diner so we decided on a restaurant. We were concerned since the kayak was in the back of the truck and things have a tendency to walk away here, but at the restaurant we were able to pull down next to the dining area where we could see the car from the table. After diner came the drive back - it was almost surreal in that it seemed to keep going - probably because it wasn't very comfortable with three of us jammed in the cab, the heavy rain, and the very rough road.

June
16
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Entry: Yesterday was a long day so I ended up sleeping in until almost ten. I spent the morning trying to work on my journal as I was eight days behind. I didn't get caught up at all, but at least I got notes down so that I'll remember when I do get caught up. After lunch I went down to MERIP to deal with the equipment that we'd just dumped when we got back last night. After rinsing everything I swapped out my first stage (the one that blew up yesterday) with one that I borrowed from the lab. Spent the rest of the afternoon checking email, and doing laundry. I went up to the house Stacy in house sitting and she made an incredible spinach quiche for diner.

June
17
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Entry: Stacy, Jeanette, and I were going to do the six waterfalls hike so I got up at six. After helping Stacy with some chores down at MERIP we met Jeanette and jumped in to Eileen's pick up truck (the one Stacy and I have been borrowing for the last week plus) for the drive to Kolonia. In town we meet up with the people who had organized the hike - a random collection of expats (lawyers, bankers, a couple tourists, etc - and convoyed out to the trail head. About an hour out Stacy asked me to drive because the road had turned ugly - dirt, with lots of mud and hills and she wasn't very comfortable with it. I found the driving very stressful (it's been a long time since I've tried to drive on roads like that without four wheel drive), but we made it. There were a couple steep down hill sections that seemed to be made of wet clay - I was convinced it would only take a little rain and we wouldn't make it back. My main comfort at this point is that we had picked up our guides - there must have been more than ten of them (there were eight hikers) - so if we did have a problem getting out we'd have plenty of muscle power to help! Entry: The hike was through very dense rain forest. Several of our guides carried machetes and occasionally they were used to clear the way. Several of the guides also carried sling shots and one even had a .22 rifle with which they bird hunted along the way - it was kind of disconcerting because every time we stopped the women and children would pull out little bird (small finch size) carcasses and rub the feathers off. It took us a hard hour of hiking through terrible mud to get to the first falls. It was a tallish single drop fall into a large pool surrounded by lush greenery. There I discovered the real advantage to this kind of hike - six waterfalls meant at least six stops to swim! Entry: From the first falls to the second falls was a quick five minute hike along the river. The second fall was really something spectacular - a perfect fancy three tier cascade that looked almost to good to be real. Another five minutes got us to the third - another beautiful single drop cascade. From the third to the fourth falls the hike started to get really difficult lots more steep muddy sections and several slippery river crossings - including at least one spot where I gave up my backpack to one of the guides and swam. After forty-five minutes we got to the fourth fall - another Hallmark Card like beautiful three tiered Entry: When we continued on it was just a short ten minutes to the fifth fall. The waterfall had a long top drop, then split into three small drops - very nice. From the fifth to the six waterfall was another long 45 minute slog, including a couple places where swimming was required. Near the falls there was a narrow overhanging canyon with the river gently flowing through - way to deep to walk - swimming through felt like it was part of some water amusement park attraction - again, it was just to perfect! The final waterfall was the shortest of the falls we'd seen, but it was located at the end of an incredibly green box canyon - very shady, and almost grotto like. We stopped for a long swimming break and by the end (to my amazement) I was getting cold. Entry: The hike back to the car too nearly two hours and was pretty tough - no convenient swim holes, lots of ups and downs, and, of course, a lot more mud. Jeanette twisted her ankle which was scary, but she pushed on (and was a lot faster than I was). Back at the car I was very nervous about the drive back to the paved road, but it went very smoothly (actually a very bad choice of words) and we had no problems. Back in Kolonia we spent at least an hour going to all the shops first looking for tape for Jeanette's ankle, and then cottage cheese (so we could make lasagna). We eventually found some tape, but there doesn't appear to be any cottage or ricotta cheese on the island, though we did find ice cream. Rather than jam all three of us (all smelling very ripe) into the cab I rode back to PATS in the back. Most of it was standing up (much easier on the body through the bumpy parts) and I was amazed at how different the perspective was - I saw tons of things I'd never noticed before, I didn't even recognize a lot of the road! Entry: Back home after I had a very necessary shower diner was already over, so I met up with Stacy and we had leftover quiche at the place she was house sitting. Power goes off at eleven, so I ended up walking back in the dark and everything looked so different (I swear that I had never seen some of the buildings) that I got a little lost. I could see the lab lights (MERIP has 24 hour power) so eventually I just headed cross country giving up on finding the road and I made it.

June
18
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Weather: Rain / Mostly Sunny Photo: Building / island corner, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: Central walk of main island, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: Main gate and channel, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: Door in wall, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: Inner wall, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Photo: Main gate, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-020 Entry: I slept in until a little after eight. Since I didn't have anything planned for the day I spent most of the morning going through my digital photos (three + hours - it's the first time I've done anything with them since I'd arrived on Pohnpei!) Midmorning Stacy came by to see if I wanted to take Mark and Karen (a couple from Sipan we'd all met at the Village after we got back from Ant Atoll) to Nan Madol - I agreed since it sounded like a good afternoon filler - even though I was sure I'd get lost. Entry: After lunch I set up the kayaks and met Mark and Karen and after studying the maps with Stacy we were off. It was surprisingly (for me) easy Entry: On the way back to PATS we spent some time chasing the large sting rays around the lagoon, and the stopped at Joy island and spent an hour lounging around in the shallow water - just enjoying the perfect sunny afternoon and trying to cool off. At four thirty we realized what time it was and bolted for home - at about five the tide would be low enough to make things challenging. We followed one dead end channel through the mangrove trees before we found the right one. From there on it was easy and in about twenty minutes we were back at PATS. Entry: After a quick (but needed) shower I met Stacy, Mark, and Karen at Stacy's house for a beer. A couple hours later we'd been joined by Tyler, Nicole, and Jeanette and we were out of cold beer. Just after dark Mark and Karen decided they needed to head back to Kolonia and the rest of us headed up to the house Stacy is watching for a burrito diner and to watch "There's Something About Mary" Right after the movie finished it was power off, but this time I was with a group so didn't get at all lost.

June
19
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Entry: I spent the morning starting to get caught up in my journal - I got about a third of the way - not really much, but considering it was the first time I had written more than notes since arriving it made me feel good. After lunch I went down to MERIP and got put to work cleaning one of the raceways (where they're growing clams). It was grunt work, but satisfying and it was a great day to be outside. In the afternoon I tried to help Tyler with his computer - it randomly crashed - and I failed. I checked some email, and then tried to watch a video but the power went off before we got very far into it.

June
20
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Found In: Weather: Partial Sun / Rain / Overcast Entry: The morning went a little slower than planned, but we were out in the boat by ten. We had been planning to dive the outside reef, but it was too rough to head outside the lagoon, so we headed to Manta Road. Neither of us had ever dove there, and from what we had heard the changing tide was going to create hellish currents, but we decided to check it out anyway. It was great - the visibility wasn't that great (30 feet), and there was definitely a current, but it was manageable. On the first dive we discovered some amazing coral gardens, some cool nudibranchs, and some nearly transparent ghost shrimp. We'd gotten out of the water and were on our way to another site when we were talking about how we both liked the site so much - so we had the driver turn around to do it again. While we were waiting on the surface a squall blew in - I was freezing and it just wasn't fun in the rain so we cut our surface interval and decided to do a shorter shallower dive. We went the other way down the channel and immediately found several sharks. The currents were worse, but still manageable, and there were more fish and a couple more amazing coral spots. Our plan had been to do a loop and end up back at the boat. When we popped up we were quite a ways from the boat and rather than fight the surface chop we re-submerged to ten feet to swim. While swimming we saw a manta ray! It wasn't that close or that big (six to eight feet across), but it as still very beautiful and graceful. We followed it a bit then swam back to the boat. Back onshore we cleaned up, I did some errands, and then worked on travel plans with Stacy - I'm looking into going to Chuuk on the way back to Guam, and we're trying to plan a trip to Black Coral island on Thursday. Stacy had invited some people to her temporary house for dinner so had to make lasagna. When no one else showed up we got lazy and decided to eat leftover quiche instead. Back at my place I sat up a while playing on the computer and drinking Bailey's.

June
21
Ou, Pohnpei, Micronesia
From PATS Found In: Weather: Rain Photo: Stacy in grotto behind falls, Pahntakai Cave Waterfall, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-021 Photo: Stacy in grotto behind falls, Pahntakai Cave Waterfall, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-021 Entry: First thing in the morning I got on the phone and tried to change my ticket to Guam to go via a stopover in Chuuk. The problem is there are no seats available between Chuuk and Guam. The frustrating thing is that I already have a seat on that flight (my current ticket is from Pohnpei to Guam via Chuuk), but I can't save just the one leg. Stacy and I spent some times discussing a plan - basically we're going to Kolonia (actually Ou - The Village) tonight, and we'll try the airline office on our way to Black Coral Island tomorrow morning - maybe they won't be able to say no to me in person, besides I need to confirm my ticket anyway. We also have the option of spending another night on Black Coral if we decide one isn't enough. Before lunch I helped Stacy move out of the house she's been house sitting - they're not due back until Sunday, but if we stay an extra night on Black Coral we wouldn't be back early enough to do it then. In the afternoon I checked email, did laundry, and packed. Entry: We were planning to leave at 1:30, but somehow it was 2:30 by the time we left PATS. Nicole caught a ride with us as she is heading on to Koseri tomorrow. We'd planned on stopping at a couple waterfalls on our way in to town, but somehow we managed to miss all but the last one. Pahntakai Cave Waterfall was very cool. It's a very high volcanic grotto with a misty narrow shower falling across the center. It's spectacular for the falls, the view of the coast, and the incredible contrast between the bare volcanic rock of the grotto and the lush growth of the surrounding rainforest. Nicole wanted to buy some souvenirs so In Kolonia we went back to the carver Stacy, Corinne, and I had visited a few days after I first arrived. His studio was very disappointing - there was hardly anything there and the pieces he was working on more than two weeks ago hadn't been touched. I'd been curious to see the turtle cribbage boards he was working on last time I was there - he offered to finish one for me in the next three days, but one the price was more than I expected ($65), and also I wasn't confident he would finish it. We tried some other carvers in the village and I ended up finding a very cool and very expensive whale cribbage board. I negotiated the price down quite a bit, and then decide to think about it while out a Black Coral. We decided to have diner before going to the Village. We tried three restaurants but all of them were closed and we ended up at a bar for pretty good burgers and a great view over the water with Sokhes ridge looming in the darkness and of the occasional rain squall and lightning show. At the Village we stored our dive gear, took turns showering (hot water!), and then went up to the bar for a beer. After one drink we felt guilty for keeping the bartenders at work so we went back to the room and I sat up late with Nicole drinking beers from our ice chest and talking.

June
22
Black Coral Island, Pohnpei, Micronesia
From Ou Found In: Weather: Rain Entry: We ended up running a little late but as I didn't think there was much chance of me changing my ticket we needed less time. I still went by the Continental Micronesia airport office to confirm my ticket, but that should only take a few minutes. At the airport office I found that there had just been four cancellations - so I can change my ticket to return to Guam via Chuuk. I changed the ticket then we went to buy Stacy's ticket only to find out that they'd sold out the cheap tickets (there had been seats just yesterday evening) so her ticket cost a $100 more than expected. We were going to Chuuk! Made some quick phone calls to get accommodation arranged - we just called a dive shop and booked a package - easy, but we won't know if we have a space until tomorrow, the day before we leave! Entry: The boat ride out to Black Coral was really snotty - rough and very wet. On the island we found out the boat driver couldn't take us diving until the afternoon because his mother in law had been bit by a dog and he had to take her to the hospital. The driver didn't get back until just before dark, so we didn't get to go diving, but he promised first thing in the morning. We spent the afternoon hanging out, lounging, playing cards, and reading - all in the shelter as it was mostly raining hard. All night we had massive storms - heavy rain and wind had me worried about the thatched roof, but we stayed mostly dry. It was actually really nice hearing the wind and rain and the water - under the hut!

June
23
PATS, Pohnpei, Micronesia
From Black Coral Island Found In: Photo: Sand dollar things, Grouper Buoy, Black Coral Island, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-021 Entry: We were up and ready to go for our dive at ten. The conditions looked much better than yesterday - it's still overcast, but the sea is at least calm (actually very calm - mirror like). Despite yesterday's assurance that we'd be out first thing in the morning it ended up being a lazy morning and we didn't head out until 11:30. But the dive was well worth the wait - the visibility was probably 150 feet. It was along a beautiful wall and there were a lot of fish. We went pretty deep, and then were close to the no-decompression limits all the way up so when we got out we decided against a second dive. Back on shore we lounged around some more until three o'clock when we got a boat ride back to the main island. As we got to shore the weather switched and it started to rain - in the few minutes it took us to move our gear into the truck we were soaked. Back in Kolonia we did some shopping for diner, got gas, and went to the bank. Then we went back to the carver so I could buy the cribbage board that I'd seen on Thursday. On the way back to PATS we stopped at Simon and Eileen's to swap cars and ended up playing with the neighbors puppies, then going up for a drink and a snack. By the time we'd left we'd also scored a fresh pizza crust - diner plans had changed! After the drive back we dumped the dive gear at MERIP, and went up to make diner - a delicious spinach pizza.

June
24
Weno, Chuuk, Micronesia
From PATS, Pohnpei via Pohnpei Airport, Koloknia, Pohnpei Found In: Route: Car to airport; Continental Micronesia flight 959: Pohnpei - Chuuk Entry: I slept very soundly - I think I really needed the sleep! When Stacy came by in the morning we played a game of cribbage on my new board just to break it in. Spent the rest of the morning at the MERIP lab - rinsing and checking dive gear and trying to help Stacy with a computer problem. After lunch I worked with the computer some more - it seems to have caught a virus. I packed the dive gear, then went up to my room to pack my bags - I can't believe I'm leaving Pohnpei already! We were going to take Simon and Eileen out to diner as a thank you for lending us their truck for so long, but the called and cancelled. After diner we'd planned on wasting time with a late movie, but when we called to check on times we found out that there were no late movies on Sundays. The good news was that rushing was then unnecessary, but the bad news was that we had nothing to do. As we were finally ready and loading the car it started to pour rain - the kind that drenches you to the skin in seconds. The drive in was very long - we were wet, the visibility was at times minimal, and when we finally did get to the paved road we got stuck behind a car that wouldn't go over fifteen miles per hour. We had a nice diner at the Village, then went to Steve's house, a friend of Stacy's who is going to Chuuk for work on the same flight. We watched some TV and talked, then went to check in at the airport. The plan had been to check in then go back to Steve's to relax until it was time to leave. Steve's check-in took minutes (he flies all the time so knows the staff), but we were stuck in a very slow moving line. After 20 minutes of the line not moving Steve gave up on us and went back promising to bring our carry-on bags. Eventually we got to the front of the line and checked in. We sat around and at boarding time Steve showed up with our bags - unfortunately the plane didn't show up. They were having weather problems and had to try three approaches before they could land. After we finally did board I had a new experience for me - we started to take off and then half way down the runway the pilot aborted - not a smooth maneuver! We were told there was a "rogue shear wind" and we might be delayed twenty minutes. Nearly two hours later we finally took off - for our 40 minute flight. We got to Chuuk at 3:40 - luckily the hotel van was waiting for us and it was trivial to get to our room - good thing as I wasn't functioning very well by that time. By the time we got to bed it was 4:30 and we had to be up before eight to dive.

June
25
Weno, Chuuk, Micronesia
Found In: Photo: Inside plane, Betty Bomber plane wreck, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-021 Photo: Me climbing out of a hold, Wreck of the Fujikawa Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-021 Entry: Predictably after three hours of sleep I woke up feeling like a zombie. Before our first dive we went by the reception and filled in the hotel's paperwork, arranged to change rooms (our view is of the parking lot, and as the hotel only seems to be about a quarter full we figured we should get an ocean view), ordered lunch, and went by the dive shop to buy a Chuuk State diving permit. After taking care of the errands we got our dive gear together and headed for the boat - such luxury, someone even came up to carry our gear down for us! Entry: The first dive was on the wreck of the Sankisan Maru a 380 foot Japanese freighter that was sunk (like most of the wrecks in Chuuk) by the U.S. in Operation Hailstorm in 1944 (the single largest naval loss in history). The ride out was only about ten minutes and the dive was straight down from the dive boat - the boat actually anchored to one of the wreck's masts. We followed Estos (the dive master) through the holds and then explored the deck and some of the other passages on our own. The holds were a bit junky, the first one was carpeted in machine gun ammunition (some still in boxes, the rest scattered in clips and individually all over the floor - several inches deep), while the second hold was covered in different sized medicine bottles. The hold were interesting, but the coral coverage on the decks, superstructure, masts, and booms was incredible - both soft and hard corals, but the soft corals were particularly spectacular. Most of the deck looked as if the coral had been planted in a perfect garden. After the dive we all had air left, so we got to do a bonus mini dive on the Betty Bomber. The plane had been stripped, but it was mostly intact and resting upright. There really wasn't much to see, but it was interesting and it was a neat swim through the length of the fuselage. Entry: The weather wasn't so great, so we went back to the hotel for lunch. We took our boxes back to the room and ate (after warming up with a hot shower!) on our balcony - which was nice, even with its view of the parking lot. The afternoon dive was on the 437 foot aircraft ferry, the Fujikawa Maru. Stacy and I started the dive late because of a leaky O-ring on my tank - it took the driver about twenty minutes to dig an O-ring out of one of the spent tanks, so we missed the guide and had to (got to?) do the wreck on our own. I think we did a pretty good job of covering the wreck, but we missed a couple of the holds including the most famous one containing a Japanese zero (by the time we found the hold we didn't have enough bottom time to explore inside it). Even having missed the best part I found this the best wreck I've ever dove on. The structure of the ship was very interesting and fun to explore. The holds had lots of artifacts (one full of oil drums, one mostly empty, and two full of sake and beer bottles), but again the real highlight was the coral growth. The wreck had very beautiful coral covering the decks, wheel house, masts, booms, and davits. Plus, unlike the Sankisan Maru (the first wreck), the Fujikawa Maru hosted a lot of fish. Entry: Back on shore we changed to a room with a view then I took advantage of the hot water and had another very long hot shower. We had dinner at the resort restaurant - it was Ok, but nothing special. I was exhausted, but determined to not fall any further behind in my journal. Unfortunately I kept falling asleep so after finally getting through the photos I'd taken on the wrecks I gave up and fell asleep.

June
26
Weno, Chuuk, Micronesia
Found In: Photo: Looking out through a turret, Wreck of the Rio de Janeiro Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-021 Photo: Stacy exiting the wreck, Wreck of the Rio de Janeiro Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-021 Photo: Hole in hull, Wreck of the Rio de Janeiro Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-021 Photo: Stacy exiting the wreck, Wreck of the Rio de Janeiro Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-022 Photo: Stacy exiting wreck, Wreck of the Gosei Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-022 Photo: Light filtering through wreck, Wreck of the Gosei Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-022 Entry: Had an excellent night's sleep, but was still tired - seven hours just wasn't enough to get caught up. Our first dive was a half an hour's ride out to Uman Island. The Rio de Janeiro Maru was a Japanese sub tender sunk (like most of the wrecks in Chuuk lagoon) in Operation Hailstorm. She rests on her starboard side in 121 feet of water. I found the sideways orientation a little distracting and in general didn't find the wreck as engaging as yesterday's upright wrecks. Also the interior wasn't as accessible, and the coral growth wasn't nearly as lush. It was still fun though, and the highlights were a hold full of bottles (including many still in cases), and some giant (thirty foot long) gun barrels for field guns. Entry: We went to Jeep Island for lunch. This is a private island owned by our resort - it's about fifty feet across and has sixteen coconut palms and a small hut - very basic but it would still be fun to hire it for a few days of relaxing! After lunch we hung out for an hour or so then jumped back in the boat to head back towards Weno. The second wreck was the Gosei Maru a freighter now resting on its port side - which again I found distracting. There was a hold full of munitions (torpedoes and depth charges were recognizable), but the highlight was the maze of interconnected passages - lit by light filtered through many holes in many different levels creating a 3-D pattern of cathedral light in the water. Entry: After we rinsed our gear we hung out for awhile, then went by the dive shop to try to arrange another dive on the Fujikawa Maru for tomorrow. For dinner we walked the few hundred yards to a nearby Japanese restaurant the had been recommended by several people. The walk was a little interesting (Chuuk is not often described as safe) and a little further than we expected. The restaurant itself was Ok - I wasn't that impressed. The best part was that the owner gave us a ride back to the hotel rather than letting us walk. Back in the hotel we got some ice and sat on our porch and drank the half bottle of Bailey's that I'd brought from Pohnpei.

June
27
Weno, Chuuk, Micronesia
Found In: Weather: Rain Photo: Japanese zero remains, Wreck of the Fujikawa Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-022 Photo: Japanese zero remains, Wreck of the Fujikawa Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-022 Photo: Diver in hold, Wreck of the Fujikawa Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-022 Photo: Urinal, Wreck of the Fujikawa Maru, Chuuk, Micronesia
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-022 Entry: The ride out to the first dive was rough - the first time we've seen whitecaps inside the lagoon. The dive itself was fantastic. It was another dive on the Fujikawa Maru (second dive our first day here). We stuck with the divemaster a bit longer and he knew what we had missed last time so we started at the holds we had missed. The first one had a couple of mostly intact Japanese zero fighter planes! It was very cool to see them there among the wreckage of the cavernous hold - though neither Stacy or I could figure out how they got them in! The second missed hold was full of shoes - slightly surreal to swim around an equally large cavern that was significantly carpeted in shoes. After the two holds we explored a bathroom, complete with a urinal, a galley (with a recognizable coffee pot), and a huge engine room criscrossed with catwalks and stairways. As our bottom time started to get low we started in on the decks - again they were fantastic due to the lush coral growth. The weather had gotten worse - the plus side was the great white noise of the driving rain on the surface above (plus the kaleidoscope pattern of rain drops above). The down side was the driving wind and rain made for a very cold and uncomfortable ride back to the hotel (no picnicking on an island in this weather!) Entry: First thing back at the room was a hot shower. After warming up and eating our boxed lunches (in the room) it was time to head out on the water again. It was still grey out, but the seashad settled down so it was a relatively smooth ride out to our second dive, the wreck of another freighter, the Kiyozumi Maru. The wreck was resting on its port side, and we entered through the fatal torpedo hole into one of the holds. It really wasn't that exciting of a wreck, especially when compared with the Fujikawa. The artifact highlights were a bicycle (barely recognizable), and an air compressor and O² bottles. The entire hull of the ship was almost completely covered with corals (mostly anchor coral) - it almost looked like a natural reef. Exploring the hull we found soft and hard corals, lots of little banded pipe fish, anemones, and tunacattes. The ride back was smooth and once on shore we did a thorough cleaning and hung everything to dry well. After another hot shower (such luxury) I read and tried to work on my journal. We had a pretty good diner at the hotel restaurant then drank a bottle of Chateau St. Michelle Merlot that I had brought with me from Guam. I ended up being up pretty late going through the days photos.

June
28
Hagåtña, Guam
From Weno, Chuuk, Micronesia Found In: End Location: Hagåtña, Guam Route: Continental Micronesia flight 957: Chuuk - Guam Entry: Spent the morning packing, had breakfast at a small local's coffee shop, and then finished packing. We checked out, left our luggage and took a hotel van into town. We looked at a souvenir shop, explored a couple shops, and pretty quickly decided there wasn't a lot to do there. Spent an hour at a hotel cafe drinking cold drinks (it was hot!) and playing cards. Around 1:15 started walking to the airport. At the airport we quickly found the hotel guys and they had brought our bags (I was a little worried). Stacy spent some time trying to arrange a ride to Xavier high school, the sister school to PATS and where she is going to stay tonight. Entry: The take off was spectacular, the entire set of islands and atolls were visible in the crystal blue waters - you could even see a few wrecks! Unfortunately I'd left my camera in the overhead compartment. The flight back was short but had a couple rough spots. Once in Guam I got through immigration and customs with a minimum of hassle (though I think one of my bags was the absolute last off the plane). From the information desk I called my car rental company (the same one I used before) and in less than ten minutes they picked me up. Thirty minutes later I was checking in to my hotel. My first stop was at the internet cafe to upload all my photos - and with a fast connection! They were technically closed, but there were people around and they remembered me so they let me use the net for an hour plus a bit. A quick dinner and some reading then I headed back to my room to work on my journal.

June
29
Hagåtña, Guam
Found In: End Location: Hagåtña, Guam Weather: Rain Entry: Woke up early to heavy rain and wind. I'd planned on driving around the island, but in the rain I decided not to. I worked on my H/PC until mid morning when the wind died. I drove down to the dive center to get my first stage regulator repaired. It took them about half an hour to replace a couple bad parts - I'm not exactly happy as I would rather they just gave me a new one but it should be ok now. By the time I left the dive center the rains seemed to have stopped so I headed on south around the island. I stopped in Aflleje Beach and got out to explore a bit - a pretty little cove with some sea cave and interesting rock formations. As I got back in the car to continue on around the island it started to rain again. The rest of the afternoon it rained on and off as I continued around the southern part of the island. The rain kept me from getting out and exploring, but at least I feel like I've seen a bit more of Guam. When I got about half way up the east coast I decided to leave the northern half of the island for next time and cut back across to Agana. Entry: I had a coffee at a small cafe in Tumon and then went for an early diner at a steak house. I spent nearly two hours over diner and read Paul Coleo's The Alchemist - diner was good and the book was excellent, but I left feeling way to full. I'd been planning on going to the internet, but I couldn't find anyplace open so went back to my room to watch some TV and pack - tomorrow's departure means I have to be up at four.

June
30
Bangkok, Thailand
From Hagåtña, Guam Found In: Route: China Airlines flight 25: Guam - Taipei, flight 693: Taipei - Bangkok Entry: I got up at four and was at the airport by five. The flight to Taipei was only long because I was so tired and couldn't sleep. The wait in Taipei was just over an hour - much nicer than the last time through. The flight to Bangkok was easy and not to long. We landed around noon. Everything went smooth and by 1:30 I was checking in to the Shanti Lodge - much earlier than I had expected. After dumping my gear I decided against taking a nap and walked to Khao San road (for the last time) to find out if I'd gotten my flight back on the 3rd. At the travel agent I found out that I hadn't, instead they got me a flight back on the 2nd. Which was even better, but I freaked out a bit when I realized I'd be home in two days. I wandered around Khao San relishing the crowds that just a bit earlier had been so annoying. I bought some knock-off sunglasses and then a snap clip for my sandals. I've been trying to find a replacement to fix my sandals for for six months - figures I'd finally fix them a day before going home! Entry: Back at the Shanti I checked email, then went in to get some Thai food. In the restaurant I ran into Kelly and her friend Christa who I had hung out with a month ago when I was in Bangkok. I sat up with them and had diner and several margaritas until late.

July, 2001

July
1
Bangkok, Thailand
Found In: Photo: Yum - grubs and several kinds of beetles!, Pat Pong, Bangkok, Thailand
Camera: Sony DSC-P1 Digital, Film ID: DSC-022 Entry: I slept in until nearly noon - I felt like I needed more. I had my favorite Shanti breakfast of muslie with fruit and yogurt, then hit the internet cafe - this time I remembered to send my parents an email telling them I was coming home. Took the river boat all the way south and then the Sky Train to the MKG Center in Siam Square. After wandering watched a movie, (Shrek, it was excellent and even had a happy ending. Met up with Kelly and Christa for a yummy(!) Mexican(!!) diner. After diner we were tired, but decided to go for a quick visit to Pat Pong - just for the night market - no shows, this time. At the market I ended up buying ten DVDs - mostly of movies that haven't even been released yet (plus a couple Disney classics).

July
2
Laguna Beach, CA
From Bangkok, Thailand via LAX, Los Angeles Found In: Entry: In the morning I ended up rushing - even though I'd set the alarm to get me up more than two hours before I need to go. By the time I'd packed, got my gear out of storage, and gone to the bank to get some more money I was half an hour later than I'd wanted to leave (and probably an hour later than I should have). Plus I'd been planning on checking email and having breakfast! The taxi driver was brilliant and took me through a lot of small streets that I'd never been on before - back roads all the way to the airport got us around the worst of the traffic and we made up more time than I'd lost. While checking in I find out that I can only check two bags - I had three, so I had to take my dive gear as carry on - kind of a pain to carry it around. The flight went quickly - I just watched the movie and we were almost there. Entry: Since I wasn't flying China Airlines we got to use the new terminal - a much better Taiwan experience than the last two times - lots of cafes, and lounge areas, and even two internet centers. Even better I only had an hour to waste. I checked my email and found that my parents are thinking that I'm arriving tomorrow and can't come pick me up. I sent a note telling them that I would be in today. At the security check they made me check the little dive knife on my BC separately (even though the EVA officials in Bangkok had insisted it was small enough when I asked expressed worry about carrying it). Then at the gate they made me check the entire bag (like I wanted to do at the start) because on this flight only one carry-on was allowed. This was a long flight and I was unable to sleep - I watched four movies (For a total of five: Delivering Milo, The Contender, The Mexican, Josie and the Pussycats, and Monkeybone) Entry: In Los Angles immigration was easy with only a ten minute wait. Then I waited nearly an hour for my bags, and mean while three or four other large flights came in and customs was a zoo - at least a 30 minute wait. I finally walked out of the airport nearly two hours later than I had told my parents. I was worried that they had been driving around in a circle waiting so I rushed out and waited on the curb until I started to recognize the cars driving around then went back in to call, only to find no one was coming to get me. Luckily I didn't have to wait to long for a shuttle and traffic wasn't bad, but with four other stops first it still took and hour and a half to get back to Laguna. By the time I got home I'd been going for well over twenty hours and was a little wired. I hung out and talked, then we had Mexican take out for diner. Amazingly I ended up staying up late reading the pile of mail that had been collected for me. Entry: This is the end of my travels and after four plus years the end of my journal. So until I give up and hit the road again, Thanks for reading, Tony

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