Woke up early due to going to sleep so early. Started writing in my tent then realized I should be writing on the beach. Had the beach pretty much to myself (three fishermen just barely visible a couple km down the beach) - but it was windy. The good news is the wind finally took care of the mosquitoes. Had breakfast at the campground bar, then went in search of the others. Packed up camp, then took a shower with two guardian angels. The showers were absolutely infested with mosquitoes, but while I was taking my shower I had a chameleon and some other kind of lizard sitting on the rafters above guzzling the mozzies just as fast as they could.
The drive was relatively unexciting. Inhambane is an ocean front town that was at one point very wealthy. Now it extrudes a decaying ambiance of grandeur - lots of colonial buildings with missing roofs, collapsed walls, etc. - not all that unlike Grand Bassam (Côte d'Ivoire). Plus the wrecks of many power fishing boats and on the water the many more basic sailing dhows that have replaced them.
Ponta da Barra is down a very long, very rough sand track. We were looking for a backpackers recommended by the 1998 Lonely Planet, but found that it went out of business in 1995 - I love guide books. Ended up in the budget (i.e. dormitory) accommodation at the fancy lodge. Hung out in the bar, talked to other travelers, had an ok diner, and discussed diving tomorrow. At least the mosquitoes here are not nearly a problem (I've only seen three all night).
