Spent most of the day walking around (and to and from) Islamic Cairo. It's a crazy maze of shopping streets and old mosques. Has a incredibly filling and delicious lunch of kushari that cost me 1.5 Pounds Egyption (<$.50) at a sit down restaurant. Did some papyrus shopping, mostly for the experience rather than the desire to buy anything (I didn't). Walked from Al-Azhar (the worlds oldest university) through Bab Zuweila (the only surviving Southern city gate) to the Mosque of Mohammed Ali and the Citadel. It was a big walking day (which I'm very aware of since my legs and butt are killing me from yesterday's pyramids), at least 6 miles.
Spent the evening working on the London flight problem. Called a recommended travel agent in London only to find out that they can't handle inbound flights. So back to the pavement searching for a cheap flight. The best I found wat 970 Pounds Egyption (~$300), which seems about twice what it should cost. Got a reservation so I can think about it for another week.
Caught the train, it's very nice. The saloon car is panaled in inlaid rosewood and looks like something out of an Agathie Christy novel. Met an American couple doing a tour of Egypt and played cards with them until midnight.